Engine oil volume oka 11113

The VAZ Oka car was designed quite a long time ago, so the design of this small car is relatively simple, which allows car owners to carry out all maintenance and repair work themselves.

One of the most important types of maintenance for the Oka power plant is changing the oil, especially in winter. Technologically, this operation is easy to perform and does not require any special skills or knowledge. It is only important to observe the frequency of work and clarify what kind of lubricant should be poured.

History of VAZ 1111/11113 engines

The engineers who developed the Oka car faced a rather difficult task - to make a compact and affordable vehicle, made from common components and with good maintainability. Similar requirements were put forward for the engine - it had to be simple, reliable and easy to repair in the event of a breakdown outside specialized service stations with qualified personnel.

In the first versions of the Oka, the developers used a two-cylinder power unit from Daihatsu Quore with 30 horsepower. Several prototypes were made with this engine. But, although the engine had a well-functioning and reliable design, they refused to copy it, since the foreign power unit required high quality engine parts and assembly standards. In addition, copying required assembling engines from scratch and mastering the corresponding technical process, and this would make the car unacceptably expensive and seriously delay the production of serial samples.

Then the engineers turned to existing engine solutions in the domestic auto industry.

Interesting: the choice of engine was influenced by the launch of the VAZ-2108 on the assembly line of the Togliatti plant.

The G8 engine was already fully developed, so to equip the new compact youth car, it was decided to create a two-cylinder engine based on the G8 engine, which at that time was the main one in VAZ production. Through a series of technical manipulations, the 1111 engine was obtained, which they began to equip the Oka with.

"PEOPLE'S" HISTORY

The small Oka (model VAZ-1111), which was invented a quarter of a century ago at the Volzhsky Automobile Plant, was supposed to become a people's car, but it didn’t. Although it has been popular in the country for many years. It was produced at two factories - in Naberezhnye Chelny and Serpukhov, a total of 30-50 thousand cars per year. It was possible to sell more, but... Oka had a completely original body and its own power unit, and in order to increase their production, serious investments were required. But neither VAZ, nor ZMA, nor SeAZ had any free funds. And when production of Oka engines was stopped in Togliatti, the project died. The small car had a number of great advantages: low price, small dimensions... Several years ago, AVTOVAZ made an attempt to revive the project. In the Oka-2 prototype, the interior is no longer so cramped; the engine was more powerful - 1.1 liters. But then it was not possible to bring the model to production, and today the platform is already outdated. But not the idea itself!

VAZ 1111 engine - features and design

The 650 cc engine 1111 is “half” of the 2108 engine. To create it, they simply took half of the engine and cylinder block, since it was easier and cheaper to develop equipment for such a solution than for a new unit. Thus, the 1111th is a two-cylinder in-line petrol carburetor engine, with 2 valves per cylinder and an overhead camshaft configuration.

1111 assembled:

Main characteristics of the Oka engine:

power - 30 forces;
volume – 649 cubic meters. cm.;
torque - maximum 44 Nm at 3400 rpm;
recommended fuel is gasoline with an octane rating of 92;
cylinders: 2;
type of food – carburetor;
valves – 4;
fuel consumption – about 4.7 liters per 100 km;
engine cooling – liquid;
engine environmental standard: Euro-0.

Weight and dimensions of the Oka engine:

weight – 66.5 kg without gearbox and clutch;
overall dimensions – 550*640*670 mm.

The entire working process takes place in two revolutions of the crankshaft, due to which the engine experiences severe vibration loads. To compensate for them, two balancing shafts are provided to reduce motor vibration.

Interesting: in the VAZ 1111 engine, the fuel pump is not electric, but mechanically driven from the engine.

The supply of the fuel mixture is controlled by the carburetor. The lubrication system, as in 2108, is created with the installation of a gear pump. Engine oil is taken from the crankcase and supplied to the friction pairs of the camshaft and crankshaft. The cylinders are irrigated with oil mist generated during the operation of the crankshaft, and the engine gas distribution mechanism and valve rods are lubricated by gravity.

Description

AvtoVAZ engine builders were given a rather difficult task - to create a compact engine for the concern’s new model Lada 1111 Oka.

Strict requirements were imposed on the engine - it must be simple in design, reliable in operation and have high maintainability.

After not entirely successful attempts to copy foreign miniature power plants, the plant’s engineers decided to create a motor based on their own engines.

To make production more economical and reduce the cost of the unit itself, the already produced VAZ-2108 was taken as the base model.

In 1988, the designers presented the first copy of the created VAZ-1111 engine. The management approved the sample and went into mass production. Production of the engine continued until 1996. During this time, the unit was repeatedly modernized, but the design diagram remained the same.

The VAZ-1111 is a two-cylinder naturally aspirated gasoline engine with a volume of 0.65 liters and a power of 30 hp. s and torque 44 Nm.

VAZ-1111 under the hood of Oka

Essentially it is half of the 1.3 liter VAZ-2108 engine. From 1988 to 1996 it was installed on Lada Oka.

The cylinder block is cast from high-strength cast iron. Not sleeved. The cylinders are bored into the body of the block. At the bottom there are three crankshaft supports.

The crankshaft is made of magnesium cast iron. Includes three main and two crankpins with their high-precision processing.

Crankshaft VAZ-1111

The four cheeks of the shaft act as a counterweight in order to reduce second-order inertial forces (damping vibration of torsional vibrations). Additionally, balancing shafts mounted in the engine and receiving rotation from the crankshaft serve the same purpose.

Balance shaft drive gears

Another feature is the possibility of turning the flywheel over. When the ring teeth wear out on one side, it becomes possible to use the unworn part.

The pistons are aluminum, made according to the traditional design. They have three rings, two of which are compression, one is oil scraper. Floating type finger. The bottom does not have special recesses for valves. Therefore, upon contact with the latter, their bending is inevitable.

The block head is aluminum. The camshaft and valve mechanism are located at the top. Each cylinder has two valves.

A special feature of the timing mechanism is the absence of camshaft bearings. They are replaced by the working surfaces of fastening beds. Thus, when they reach extreme wear, the entire cylinder head has to be replaced.

Timing belt drive. The belt life is not long - after a mileage of 60 thousand km it must be replaced.

Combined lubrication system. The oil pump is interchangeable with the pump from the VAZ-2108, and the oil filter is interchangeable with the VAZ-2105. A special feature of the system is the strict prohibition of overfilling oil above the norm (2.5 l).

The fuel supply system was carburetor on the VAZ-1111, but there was also an injection system (on the VAZ-11113). The fuel pump differs from the base model in the direction and diameter of the fittings. In addition, its drive has been changed - instead of electric, it has become mechanical.

Ignition is electronic, contactless. A characteristic feature is that voltage is supplied to both spark plugs simultaneously.

In general, the VAZ-1111 turned out to be compact, quite powerful and economical. Such indicators were achieved thanks to an improved combustion chamber, an increased compression ratio, and optimal selection of adjustments to the fuel supply and ignition systems.

Mechanical losses are further reduced by reducing the number of cylinders.

Motor VAZ 11113

This engine appeared later as a modification of the same engine from the V8, when the latter was brought to a volume of 1.5 liters (VAZ-21083). The engine was again “halved”, resulting in a 750 cc unit. The appearance of motors 1111 and 11113 is the same, the changes affected only the internal part. The car with this engine was called LADA OKA.

So, it was increased to 81 mm. motor piston diameter (from 76). Engineers installed an additional cooling system for the combustion chamber and made the inter-cylinder partitions thicker.

Additional cooling turned out to be necessary due to the increased heat generation of the new engine: without it, the pistons often jammed, the cylinder walls lifted, and other malfunctions occurred, typical of engine overheating.

The updated engine became 3-5 horsepower more powerful, although it remained carburetor-powered. Otherwise, the VAZ 11113 engine received technical characteristics almost no different from its “younger brother”, in particular, the eco-standard remained Euro-0, and the design of the fuel supply system (carburetor) remained the same. Main parameters:

working volume – 749 cubic meters;
power developed by the motor: 33 forces;
standard torque: 50 Nm at 3200 rpm;
fuel: 92 gasoline:
fuel consumption: up to 6.2 l. by "hundred".

Interesting: Oka received the 11113 injection two-cylinder engine, such a project existed at the plant, and in 2005 a limited number of these cars were even produced. The injection version received the marking 11113-20. But the new product did not go into wide production due to many problems and the need for improvements, although today you can still buy a kit to convert the engine into an injection one.

This is what the factory injector kit looks like for the 11113th engine:

Cooling system features

The car engine cooling system is designed by designers to perform several vital functions. But, in some cases, especially on vehicles with high mileage, this system is a weak point. There are three main types of cooler:

The first is practically no longer used, as it boils away quickly, causes damage to metal parts of the engine and is dangerous when used in the cold season. The second is the most common and inexpensive. It is produced from inorganic compounds, which creates an oil film on the engine walls, which significantly reduces thermal conductivity.

The third type of cooler, although much more expensive, is more effective, since it is based on organic compounds and has a smaller lubricating layer, which improves heat transfer performance.

If problems constantly arise in the cooling system, it is most practical to use antifreeze, since it is more financially profitable

Owners of VAZ 2109, 2108 and VAZ 21099 cars, no matter whether carburetor or injection, are more likely than others to encounter this problem. The most common breakdowns are:

Radiator leak.
Cooler tank failure.
Pump malfunction.
Damage to the interior heater radiator.
Coolant slagging.

In almost all these cases, you will have to drain the antifreeze from the radiator or the engine as a whole.

Other Oka engine models

After AvtoVAZ practically curtailed its minicar production, the remaining ones attempted to install other engines:

previously reviewed 11116;
Korean Hyundai Atos unit (did not go into production);
MeMZ 245 (went into small-scale production);
MeMZ motor model 247.1 (can be found very rarely).

Created on the Oka platform, the all-terrain vehicle on tracks is equipped with a unit from the VAZ 2131, and the forced sports version is powered by engines from the Lada Priora.

Basic faults

In the early days of the 1111/11113's existence, Oka owners often complained about increased annoying vibration and noise from the engine compartment. The noise was especially loud when the engine was warming up; the balancer shafts mentioned above were to blame for it. This phenomenon worries car owners, but is not considered a malfunction. The engine may also be noisy due to too large valve clearances. The problem is eliminated by adjusting them. Vibration is a design feature, since the engine only has two pistons. A fairly common problem with engines is burnout of the cylinder head gasket. Its main reasons:

factory production flaws, when the gasket was manufactured with inaccuracies;
Incorrect tightening of the cylinder head, in which the gasket is not fully compressed.

If the motor is repaired, the seal is replaced and cannot be reused.

Important: if there are burrs on the new gasket, it is also not recommended to install it in the engine.

The Oka 11113 engine may have difficulty starting “hot” after a short stop. The reason for this is the layout of the engine compartment and problems with the fuel pump diaphragm. In a hot VAZ 11113 engine, fuel vapors are formed, including in the cavities of the fuel pump, and this unit is not intended for pumping gases and can “fail” when starting the engine before it cools down. The aperture can be changed.

Important: if a problem with the motor occurs on the road, you can simply place a damp cloth on the pump as a temporary measure. This will cool the unit somewhat and allow you to get to the place where the diaphragm can be replaced.

Maintenance

The declared resource of Oka engines under conditions of timely and correct maintenance is 120 thousand km. That is, these units, despite a number of inherent problems, can be called relatively reliable in their category.

The scheduled maintenance period is every 15 thousand kilometers. As part of the service, the oil is changed (it is advisable to use a synthetic lubricant; if semi-synthetics were poured into the engine, the interval is reduced to 10 thousand km). Therefore, when choosing which oil to pour into the Oka engine and when, you should clarify what liquid is already in the crankcase. When replacing, the oil system is washed and the oil filter is changed. Oil viscosity grade – 0W 40. 5W 40, 10W 40, depending on the season.

The lubricant volume in the 1111/11113 engine is 2.5 liters, the level is controlled by the oil dipstick. Overfilling liquid is strictly prohibited!

Valve clearance adjustment is supposed to be done every 30 thousand, but in fact it is carried out according to necessity and the actual condition of the engine. Also at this mileage you should clean the carburetor and adjust the idle speed.

After 60 thousand mileage, the fluid in the cooling circuit should be changed. If this is not done on time, the substance will degrade and lose its anti-corrosion and lubricating properties, reducing the life of the system as a whole. At this mileage, it is strictly necessary to replace a worn timing belt: if it breaks, the valves will bend, which will lead to the need to change the engine or make expensive repairs.

Replacement with flushing

The replacement sequence is described above if the same oil is poured into the engine as was previously used.

But some owners, for various reasons, have to switch to another brand of lubricant. And in this case, it is recommended to carry out the replacement with pre-washing. This operation is simply a two-stage lubricant change.

Its essence is this: after draining the lubricant, fill the engine with flushing liquid (but preferably with oil that will be filled) and change the filter. Next, we start the power unit, give it time to run (15-20 minutes), drain everything and pour new lubricant into the motor, and also change the filter element.

Therefore, if you plan a shift with flushing, you should stock up on double the amount of oil (5 l) and two filters. In this case, you can take the cheapest one filter, since it will only work for 20 minutes.

Tuning the Oka engine

Since the power of the power unit is small, tuning as such does not make much sense: you can achieve an increase of up to 10%, especially with flashing the ECU of the injection version of the engine, but against the general background it will not be noticeable. The technical characteristics of Oka engines do not allow them to extract much power.

As a “custom project”, the owners of these cars can install an injector from a VAZ-21083i engine with improved characteristics, but this is a rather labor-intensive and financially expensive operation. In terms of cost, it is approximately equivalent to installing the Chinese TJ376QE mentioned above. To continue tuning and extract more power, a compressor can be installed on an injection engine and other modifications can be made as desired.

Some drivers are interested in how much oil to pour into the Oka. This is, to a greater extent, a question that worries those who use the VAZ-1111 car and other modifications of it. Or those whose loved ones (for example, someone from the older generation) purchased such a car.

The Oka car manufacturer recommends using certain types of oils.

The Oka car has a lot of modifications. Not all went into the general creation, but several hundred samples were still sold. Depending on the duration of the project, which of them you are dealing with, of course, literally find the engine size. For example, the first Oka cars (VAZ-1111 and similar) have a crankcase filling volume of 3.5.5 liters. What is a crankcase? This is the name of a car part in which its most important parts must be protected. This is a gearbox, various engine parts that are in motion, etc. The crankcase not only protects, but also lubricates those machine parts that are in motion.

Invented relatively recently (in 2007), Oka trucks need to be filled, naturally, with more than just oil. About 4 l. It's more important to do it the right way. Let's look at the rules for pouring oil specifically into a passenger car. According to the manufacturer's advice, it is necessary to use certain types of this liquid. Let's look at, for example, how to change it for a VAZ-1111 car.

Lukoil-Lux and Novoil-Sint oils are suitable for lubricating the engine of an Oka car; for the gearbox crankcase - Rolst and TM5-9P transmission oils.

Read:

The Oka car manufacturer recommends using certain types of oils. For example, for the fuel tank - AI-91 and 95 gasoline; to fill the engine lubrication system with Lukoil-Lux, Novoil-Sint and the like. For the crankcase - transmission oils "Rolst", "TM5-9P" and others of the same type.

Payment methods for goods:

It is possible to send cargo with a thirty percent (30%) advance payment with blocking and removal of blocking upon full payment.
It is possible to send cargo without prepayment, provided that the buyer pays for the services of the transport company in both directions at the branch of the transport company.
Sending by PEC by cash on delivery with the condition of prepayment of delivery in both directions (this way we are safe from fraudsters) - in PEC before payment you can inspect the goods received, PEC charges a commission for this service in the amount of: 1.5% for cash and 3% for non-cash calculation

You can make any changes (tuning/additions) to the standard engine configuration BUT the warranty will be 3000 km or 3 months of operation

You can also make any set of attachments (standard and non-standard) if you have some of the equipment - write what to add/exclude from the set, the manager will write a price change.

Working volume 0.75 l

Cylinder diameter 82 mm

Stroke 71 mm

Number of valves 4

Carburetor power system

What does the engine package include: Block, crankshaft, pistons, rings, connecting rods, bearings, half rings, oil seals, cylinder head assembly with camshaft, crankshaft pulley, flywheel, oil pump with oil receiver, iron oil pan (aluminum can be installed - check price with manager), valve cover, gas distribution mechanism with a closed cover, spark plugs. Sensors: oil, temperature, phase sensor (if injector), knock sensor, antifreeze drain plug, dipstick, break-in oil (10v40 semi-synthetic Lukoil, recommended after break-in 1000-1500 km, oil change).

Packaging: everything is mounted on a wooden stable pallet, screwed on, the engine itself is made of cardboard on all sides and wrapped with stretch film. The transport company is packed in a wooden box. At the request of the client, we can dismantle any component of the engine or replace it with a non-standard sports or tuned part.

Changing the oil OKA VAZ 11113

The procedure for changing the oil (specifically speaking about the engine) is as follows:

Unscrew the plug of the hole called the filler hole. It is placed on the cover, which then protects the cylinder head.
Very carefully (motor fluid is very hot) you should unscrew the drain plug located on the crankcase. It is important to first place some kind of container under it and drain the liquid that has already been used.
Then you need to unscrew the oil water filter using a special wrench. What to do if you don’t have such a key and it’s impossible to borrow it from anyone or get it in any other way, but you can’t unscrew the filter by hand? A good option would be to try unscrewing the filter with a screwdriver, using it as a lever. The filter should be punched as close to the bottom as possible. Later, the drain plug must be screwed into the crankcase.
Fill in approximately one-half the capacity of the oil filter with new engine oil. This needs to be done without performing a high-quality installation, just like you would install an oil filter.
After which you need to lubricate the o-ring of the new filter (in other words, the oil filter) with motor oil, preferably a suitable brand. Then screw the new oil filter onto the engine fitting. This must be done by hand, without the help of any tools.
Then you should fill in as much of this oil water as needed. It has already been said that the precise size of the required quantity depends on the Oka modification used. Keep control of how much of it was placed in the engine, of course with the help of a pointer. Then you need to screw the plug into the cap that protects the head.
The last step is to start the engine and let it idle for a small amount of time. Fortunately, the lamp indicating that the oil pressure is not normal should go out after a few minutes if the engine has been started. Then you need to stop the engine and later check whether the oil level is sufficient. If there is not enough, add until there is as much as needed.

Stages of work

The operation is performed on a warm engine, so the best option is to do everything after the trip, allowing time for the engine to cool down a little.

Next we do this:

Open the hood;
We twist the oil filler cap (it is located on the cylinder head valve cover);
We climb under the car (this is what the hole is for);
We find the drain plug on the pan;
We tear off the cork and slowly turn it out (we hold the prepared container in our other hand). If the pan is still hot, it is better to wait until it cools down;
Having completely unscrewed the plug, quickly replace the container. We wait time for the lubricant to drain as much as possible (10-15 minutes);
We wrap the plug in place and tighten it;
Use a puller to dismantle the filter element (if there is no device, then simply pierce the housing with a screwdriver and use it as a lever to tear off the part);
Before installing a new filter component, fill it with lubricant and be sure to lubricate the seal (rubber ring);
We mount the filter in place and tighten it by hand;
We fill the engine with new lubricant (we do this in stages - first fill in 2 liters, wait until the oil drains, bring it to the desired level, guided by the dipstick);
Replace the oil filler cap;

After a short period of time (1-2 hours), we re-check the level to make sure that it is within the normal range; if necessary, we adjust it.

Oka car engine oil pressure measurement

If you need to change the oil in the box, the method is given below.

Many drivers are interested in how much oil to fill in the Oka. Of course, this question mainly concerns those who use a VAZ-1111 car and its other modifications. Or those whose loved ones (for example, someone from the older generation) bought such a car.

The Oka car manufacturer recommends the use of certain types of oils.

Oka's car has a lot of modifications. Not all of them went into mass production, but several hundred samples were still sold. Depending on which of them you are dealing with, you can accurately determine the engine size. For example, the first Oka cars (VAZ-1111 and similar) have a crankcase filling volume of 2.5 liters. What is a crankcase? This is the name of a car part that protects its most important parts. This is a gearbox, various engine parts that are in motion, etc. The crankcase not only protects, but also lubricates those machine parts that are in motion.

What kind of liquid should I fill in and how should I do it?

Lukoil-Lux and Novoil-Sint oils are suitable for lubricating the Oka car engine; for the gearbox housing - Rolst and TM5-9P transmission oils.

The Oka car manufacturer recommends the use of certain types of oils. For example, for the fuel tank - AI-91 and 95 gasoline; to fill the engine lubrication system with Lukoil-Lux, Novoil-Sint and the like. For the gearbox housing - transmission oils "Rolst", "TM5-9P" and others of the same type.

The procedure for changing the oil (if we talk specifically about the engine) should be as follows:

Unscrew the plug from the hole called the filler hole. It is located on the cover, which, in turn, protects the cylinder head.
As carefully as possible (the engine fluid is very hot), you should unscrew the drain plug located on the crankcase. It is important to place some kind of container under it before this and drain the liquid that has already been used.
Then you need to unscrew the oil filter using a special wrench. What if you don’t have such a key and it’s impossible to borrow it from anyone or get it in any other way, but you can’t unscrew the filter by hand? A good option would be to try to unscrew the filter with a screwdriver, if you use it as a lever. The filter should be punched as close to the bottom as possible. Then the drain plug needs to be screwed into the crankcase.
Fill it with new engine oil to approximately half the capacity of the oil filter. This must be done before installing the oil filter.
After this, it is necessary to lubricate the o-ring of the new filter (that is, the oil filter) with engine oil, preferably the desired brand. Then screw the new oil filter onto the engine fitting. This must be done by hand, without the help of any tools.
Then you should fill in as much of this oil liquid as necessary. It has already been said that the exact size of the required quantity depends on the Oka modification used. You can control how much of it has been placed in the engine using a pointer. Then you need to wrap the plug into the cap that protects the head.
The last step is to start the engine and let it idle for a short amount of time. Ideally, the lamp indicating that the oil pressure is not normal should go out a couple of minutes after the engine has been started. Then you need to stop the engine, then check whether the oil level is sufficient. If there is not enough, add until there is as much as needed.

And if you need to change the oil in the gearbox, the algorithm is given below.

When replacement is required

One of the key advantages of Oka cars of various modifications is their low cost. The machines are very cheap to maintain and do not require the use of expensive spare parts and consumables. But when choosing frankly low-quality parts, certain difficulties may arise. Therefore, when servicing and repairing, try to use the optimal consumables so that the machine can operate confidently, for a long time and reliably. To maintain engine performance, you should change the engine oil on time. The manufacturer's recommendations are taken into account here. The operating manual for Oka cars (versions 1111 and 11113) states that the engine fluid should be changed every 10 thousand kilometers, or every 6 months. Consider what comes first.

But there is an important amendment that provides for operation in difficult conditions. These include:

short regular trips, the range of which is no more than 6 kilometers;
short trips up to 15 kilometers in sub-zero temperatures;
driving a car with frequent stops;
regular trips accompanied by idling;
operating the vehicle at minimum speed due to city traffic jams and heavy traffic;
driving on dusty, unpaved, hilly roads;
trips around the countryside, etc.

All this negatively affects the condition of the engine oil, reducing its service life and reducing the original physical and chemical properties. Therefore, under severe operating conditions, it is recommended to reduce the frequency of oil changes to 5 thousand kilometers or 3 months. Try to regularly monitor the level and condition of the lubricating fluid. This will allow you to understand when the oil begins to lose its characteristics and will require mandatory replacement. Although Oka is cheap to repair, you shouldn’t delay changing the oil. If the lubricant is changed in a timely manner, the engine will operate efficiently and reliably, and there will be no excessive friction with the formation of metal chips. Otherwise, engine repair will be required, which even on the Oka River is not that cheap.

Level and condition

During the period between services, when the machine is operated on changed oil, it is important to monitor the condition of the fluid and its level in the oil sump. To check the level, perform a few simple manipulations:

remove the oil dipstick from the engine;
wipe it with a clean, dry, lint-free cloth;
insert back;
lower it all the way into the engine crankcase;
remove the dipstick again.

If the oil level is optimal, you will see an oil mark on the dipstick between the Min and Max marks. You can check on a cold engine, but this will not give an objective assessment. Therefore, it is recommended to place the car on a flat horizontal platform, start the engine, warm it up to a temperature of about 80 degrees Celsius, and then turn it off. After 5 minutes, when all the oil has drained back into the crankcase, you can carry out the above manipulations. You can visually check with a few drops the condition of the lubricant. A change in color, an uncharacteristic aroma, a burnt odor, or foreign impurities indicate that the liquid has almost lost its protective, lubricating and cooling properties. Therefore, further operation of the car with such oil is potentially dangerous.

If everything is fine with the oil, but the level does not correspond to the recommended level, it is necessary to change it. A lack of oil in the crankcase is just as dangerous as its excess. If the level is too high, when the dipstick shows a mark above Max, the engine will consume more lubricant, it will begin to burn out, and the spark plugs will become dirty. Carbon deposits will appear on the internal surfaces of the engine, which will entail serious changes in the characteristics and performance of the engine. If there is insufficient oil, add the required amount. But you can only use the same compounds that were previously poured into the engine. Otherwise, you will have to completely change the lubricant and flush the system.

How to change engine oil in a gearbox

To change the oil in the gearbox, you will need the oil itself, a screwdriver, a funnel, and a 17mm wrench.

If you need to change the engine oil in the gearbox, you will need the following: the oil itself, a screwdriver, a funnel, a 17mm wrench. The procedure is as follows:

Before changing the oil, you need to remove the rubber cap from the breather (this is the name of the device through which the container communicates with the atmosphere to maintain the required level of pressure) and wash it.
Using a screwdriver or wire, you need to clean the cap of the hole in the breather, and then install it in place.
Unscrew the oil drain plug, first placing a container under it. Wait until it drains completely, then tighten the plug.
Remove the oil level indicator from the hole in the rear cover located in the gearbox.
Then new oil should be poured into the hole located under the pointer. It is important to insert the funnel first.
Check oil level. If necessary, top up to the required level.

Important details as a conclusion

We must not forget about important details when pouring oil into a car.

This fluid needs to be drained after the trip, and the sooner the better - while the engine has not yet cooled down.

What if the engine is already cold? It needs to be started and warmed up to a temperature of approximately 80°C. Don't rush to drain the oil. This procedure should take at least 15 minutes. You shouldn't expect this to happen any faster.