Replacing the thermostat
Remove the air filter.
Drain the antifreeze into a prepared container.
Remove the four hoses by lowering the clamps. Keep in mind that a small amount of antifreeze may spill.
Carefully remove the thermostat.
We clean the nest from dust and other residues. We take a new thermostat and apply a layer of sealant to all joints with the hoses, then wait 10 minutes.
To further install the new thermostat, follow these instructions in reverse order:
- install four hoses;
- fill with coolant;
- install the air filter.
Removing the air filter housing
We unscrew the 2 nuts from the front and pull out the plug behind the body.
We remove the connector from the MAF sensor; you need to press the latch from below and pull the connector.
After loosening the clamp, carefully remove the air hose.
Slowly remove the air filter housing, slightly loosening it.
The filter is assembled in the same way, but in reverse order.
Purpose, design and principle of operation of the thermostat
The coolant circulating through the working channels of the engine blocks, its main purpose is to remove excess heat accumulated in the power unit due to the friction of the working elements of the engine and the impact of the high temperature of the exhaust gases passing through the exhaust circuit.
The main elements of the cooling system of the VAZ 2114, which are responsible for lowering the temperature of the antifreeze, are the electric cooling radiator fan and the thermostat.
To understand the principle of its operation, you need to see what the thermostat on a VAZ 2114 looks like. Structurally, it is designed in such a way that the valve that regulates the coolant flow is located inside a housing with three pipes:
- two inputs - from the engine and radiator;
- one day off - to the pump.
The main working element of the valve itself, located inside the thermostat, is a solid heat-sensitive filler, which, when heated, through a rubber insert, acts on the piston that moves the main valve. When it heats up, it opens it, when it cools down, on the contrary, it closes the hole, preventing the flow of antifreeze.
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The thermostat is attached to the engine through a pipe to the cylinder head on the left side, under the air filter. It is connected to the radiator and pump using rubber pipes. On a cold engine, the valve of this coolant flow regulator is closed and after starting, the liquid that begins to be pumped by the pump forces moves along a “small circuit” or “in a small circle.” Both of these expressions are used among motorists. When moving in a small circle, the antifreeze passes through the heater radiator, intake manifold and throttle assembly. Liquid is not supplied to the radiator; the valve cuts off this path.
As the engine heats up, the coolant takes away some of the heat, heats up and, passing in a “small circle” through the thermostat, heats the temperature-sensitive element. The piston begins to move and open the main valve. This begins to happen when the liquid temperature reaches 87 degrees. In this case, part of the coolant begins to circulate through the radiator. When the temperature reaches 102 degrees, the valve opens completely, moving eight millimeters. In this mode, the entire coolant flow rushes in a “large circle” through the cooling radiator.
Experts recommend checking the operation of the thermostat without removing it from the car. To do this, after starting the engine, you need to touch the lower pipes coming from the radiator with your hands. They should be cold until the temperature rises above eighty degrees. As soon as the temperature rises above 85 degrees, the tubes should begin to heat up and after a while you can feel that the “large circle” circulation is working. The tubes should get quite hot.
If the lower pipes leaving the radiator continue to remain cold, it means the main valve has not opened and the thermostat is faulty. A malfunction of this regulator may also be indicated by the fact that the lower tubes begin to heat up almost immediately after starting the engine. This indicates that the valve is open and does not close when cold.
In both cases, a thermostat failure does not bring anything good for the engine. In the case when the valve is open, the antifreeze, passing in a “large circle,” does not have the opportunity to heat up to working condition. This reduces engine power and other performance parameters. In the case when the main valve is closed, the engine has a high risk of overheating the blocks. This is the most dangerous condition for the power unit. If you drive in this mode for some, even not very long, time, you can damage the engine, even to the point of breaking the shafts. And this, at a minimum, is a major overhaul of the entire internal combustion engine.
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There is a different way to check the thermostat on a VAZ 2114. To do this, you need to pour water into a pan and, placing it on the stove to heat, immerse the thermostat there. Knowing at what temperature the thermostat on the VAZ 2114 opens, use a thermometer to monitor the heating of the water in the pan. At about 87 degrees the valve should open. If this happens, then the device is fully operational. It is better to check it in this way before installing it in place of a failed one.
Many car enthusiasts often ask specialists whether it is possible to repair the thermostat.
There is only one fairly reliable way to help the valve work. To do this, lightly hit the device body with a screwdriver several times. The impact should open the valve.
If this does not happen, then the thermostat on the VAZ 2114 needs to be replaced.
Replacing the pump
The water pump or water pump plays an important role in the cooling system of a car. Failure of the pump leads to overheating of the engine and breakdown of parts.
Service 644 specialists easily cope with any tasks thanks to experience, modern equipment and teamwork. We offer services for replacing the pump of Russian and imported cars.
Call us
For detailed information, please call: +7,. Lyubertsy, st., Krasnaya street, 1 “Yu” |
You can safely contact Service 644 if you need to replace the pump on an imported car. Highly qualified craftsmen perform: pump replacement for Ford, pump replacement for Skoda, pump replacement for Opel, pump replacement for Mercedes, pump replacement for Chevrolet, pump replacement for Toyota, pump replacement for BMW, pump replacement for Hyundai, pump replacement for Renault and others foreign cars. We offer: replacement of pumps for VAZ 2107, VAZ 2109, VAZ 2110, VAZ 2112, VAZ 2114, VAZ 2115, replacement of pumps for Niva and other cars of domestic manufacturers.
Prices for pump replacement in Service 644 are the lowest in Lyubertsy and VAO Lyubertsy.
List of prices for locksmith work
Chassis, Suspension (Cost, Prices for work, Price)
Name of works | Price |
Car chassis diagnostics | from 500 |
Replacing rear shock absorber | from 1000 |
Replacing the front shock absorber | from 1200 |
Replacing the steering knuckle | from 1200 |
Replacement of rear wheel hub bearing | from 700 |
Replacing the front wheel hub bearing | from 1200 |
Wheel Bearing Adjustment | For free |
Replacing the front suspension spring | from 1200 |
Replacement of rear suspension spring | from 500 |
Replacing the rear c/o lever | from 500 |
Replacing the front wishbone | from 500 |
Replacement of trailing arm c/blocks | from 1300 |
Replacement of silent blocks of rear longitudinal levers | from 1500 |
Replacing rear stabilizer bushings | from 500 |
Replacing front stabilizer bushings | from 500 |
Replacing the front shock absorber strut support | from 1300 |
Replacing the front suspension ball arm support | from 500 |
Replacing the front stabilizer | from 1000 |
Replacing the rear wheel hub | from 1000 |
Replacing the front wheel hub | from 1000 |
Replacement of rear stabilizer link | from 500 |
Replacing the front stabilizer link | from 500 |
Replacing the support bearing | from 1300 |
Replacing the rear beam (bridge) | from 3000 |
Replacing the front subframe | from 1400 |
Replacing the drive (CV joint) | from 1300 |
Replacing the front lever silent block | from 1400 |
Re-pressing the s/w with the part removed | from 300 |
Steering (Cost, Prices for work, Price)
Name of works | Price |
Changing the oil in the power steering with flushing | from 700 |
Replacing the power steering oil reservoir | from 500 |
Replacing the steering rack | from 2000 |
Replacing the tie rod boot (rack) | from 700 |
Bleeding the steering rack | For free |
Replacing the tie rod (with tip, without tip) | from 700 |
Replacing the high pressure hose of the power steering pump | from 500 |
Replacing the power steering reservoir hose | from 500 |
Replacing the tie rod end | from 500 |
Replacing the power steering pump | from 1800 |
Replacing the steering propeller shaft | from 1000 |
Replacing the steering wheel | from 800 |
Replacing the steering column | from 2900 |
Engine (Cost, Work prices, Price)
Name of works | Price |
Oil change + Oil filter replacement | from 500 |
Removing and installing engine protection | from 200 |
Replacing the air filter | from 50 |
Replacing spark plugs (without removing the manifold) | from 500 |
Generator replacement | from 1000 |
Starter replacement | from 1000 |
Replacing the pump | from 500 |
Replacing the cylinder head gasket | from 4500 |
Replacing the intake manifold | from 1000 |
Exhaust manifold replacement (front) | from 1300 |
Exhaust manifold replacement (rear) | from 2500 |
Replacing injector nozzles | from 1000 |
From the engine sump | from 2000 |
Replacing the oil pump | from 500 |
Replacing the side engine mount (engine mount) | from 500 |
Replacing the rear engine mount (engine mount) | from 500 |
Replacing the front engine mount (engine mount) | from 500 |
Replacing the valve cover gasket | from 700 |
Replacing the oil pan gasket (ENGINE) | from 1900 |
Replacing the timing belt | from 2500 |
Replacing the timing belt + pump and seals | from 3800 |
Replacing the Attachment Belt | from 500 |
Replacing the timing chain | from 5000 |
Replacing the alternator belt | from 500 |
Replacing the power steering belt | from 500 |
Replacing the attachment belt tensioner pulley | from 500 |
Replacing the front crankshaft oil seal (with the pulley removed) | from 400 |
with engine | from 8000 |
Cylinder head bulkhead | from 2500 |
Computer diagnostics | from 500 |
Compression measurement | from 1000 |
Injector flushing | from 1500 |
Engine bulkhead | from 8000 |
Restoring spark plug well threads | from 1100 |
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Transmission and manual transmission (Cost, Prices for work, Price)
Name of works | Price |
Changing the oil in a manual gearbox | from 500 |
Clutch replacement | from 3000 |
Replacing the clutch (with subframe removal) | from 4500 |
Replacing the manual transmission shifter | from 1000 |
Replacing the flywheel (with the gearbox removed) | from 500 |
Replacing the manual transmission pan gasket | from 1500 |
Checking the gearbox oil level | For free |
Replacing the speed sensor | from 300 |
Diagnostics of the gear shift mechanism | For free |
Replacing the rocker seal | from 500 |
Replacing the CV joint axle shaft seal (Gearbox-MECHANICAL) | from 1200 |
Replacing the CV joint boot | from 1300 |
with drive | from 700 |
Brake system (Cost, Prices for work, Price)
Name of works | Price |
Replacement of rear brake discs (per pair) | from 1000 |
Replacement of rear brake discs + rear pads (per pair) | from 1000 |
Replacement of front brake discs (per pair) | from 1000 |
Replacement of front brake discs + front pads (per pair) | from 1000 |
Replacing rear brake pads (DRUMS) | from 1000 |
Replacing rear brake pads (DISCS) | from 500 |
Replacing front brake pads | from 500 |
Checking the brake fluid density | For free |
Replacing the master brake cylinder | from 1500 |
Replacing the vacuum brake booster | from 1500 |
Checking the parking brake operation | For free |
Adjusting the parking brake | from 300 |
Replacing the central parking brake cable | from 500 |
Replacing the left parking brake cable | from 800 |
Replacing the right parking brake cable | from 800 |
Replacing the rear brake cylinder (drum) | from 500 |
Replacing the front brake cylinder (caliper) | from 700 |
Replacing the rear brake hose | from 500 |
Replacing the front brake hose | from 500 |
Replacing brake fluid with bleeding and flushing | from 1000 |
Caliper bulkhead | from 1000 |
Fuel system (Cost, Work prices, Price)
Name of works | Price |
Checking the electric fuel pump | from 500 |
Flushing the fuel tank (with the tank removed) | from 1000 |
Replacing the fuel filter (external) | from 300 |
Replacing the fuel filter (submersible) | from 1500 |
Replacing the fuel line (hose, tube) | from 500 |
C/U fuel tank | from 2000 |
Replacing the electric submersible fuel pump | from 1000 |
C/U electric submersible fuel pump | from 1000 |
Replacing the external electric fuel pump | from 500 |
C/U external electric fuel pump | from 500 |
Cooling system (Cost, Work prices, Price)
Name of works | Price |
Replacing the coolant (or flushing) | from 1000 |
Replacing the cooling system expansion tank | from 500 |
Replacing the heater radiator (without removing the dashboard) | from 2000 |
Replacing the heater radiator (with removal of the dashboard) | from 7000 |
Replacing the temperature sensor | from 300 |
Replacing the thermostat housing | from 700 |
Replacing the cooling system pipe | from 300 |
Replacing the thermostat housing gasket | from 700 |
Replacement of cooling radiator (automatic transmission, AIR CONDITIONING) | from 1000 |
Replacing the cooling radiator (CAT-AUTOMATIC) | from 1000 |
Replacing the cooling radiator (Gearbox-MECHANICAL) | from 1000 |
Replacing the thermostat | from 7000 |
Checking the condition of the coolant | For free |
Checking coolant leaks | For free |
Flushing cooling radiators and air conditioning. external | from 1000 |
Replacing the water pump (pump) (timing removed) | from 500 |
Replacing the interior heater radiator hose | from 500 |
Prices for muffler repairs
Muffler replacement
Replacing the muffler corrugation | From 2000 |
Replacing the lambda probe (oxygen sensor) | From 300 |
Replacing the catalyst under the bottom | From 1000 |
Replacing the catalyst at the manifold | From 3500 |
replacing the catalyst with a flame arrester under the bottom | From 2000 |
replacing the catalyst with a flame arrester at the manifold | From 4000 |
Replacing the resonator, rear muffler | From 400 |
Installing a lambda probe emulator (fake) | From 300 |
Exhaust system diagnostics | Free (with our repair) |
List of prices for muffler repairs (Cost, Work prices, Price)
Replacing the muffler corrugation | From 2000 |
Replacing the lambda probe (oxygen sensor) | From 300 |
Replacing the catalyst under the bottom | From 1000 |
Replacing the catalyst at the manifold | From 3500 |
replacing the catalyst with a flame arrester under the bottom | From 2000 |
replacing the catalyst with a flame arrester at the manifold | From 4000 |
Replacing the resonator, rear muffler | From 400 |
Installing a lambda probe emulator (fake) | From 300 |
Exhaust system diagnostics | Free (with our repair) |
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List of prices for welding work
Argon-arc welding
Name of works | Price, rub |
Welding of aluminum copper tube with a diameter of up to 10mm | From 300 |
Welding aluminum copper tube with a diameter of more than 10mm | From 500 |
Welding seam up to 100 mm | from 20 for 10mm |
Welding seam more than 100 mm | Negotiable |
Double welding seam up to 100mm | from 20 for 10mm |
Double weld seam over 100mm | Negotiable |
Welding the engine sump | From 1000 |
Welding the engine manifold | From 700 |
Welding the engine block | From 1500 |
Welding the block head | From 1700 |
Welding the cylinder head cover | From 500 |
Welding the gearbox housing | From 1200 |
Welding suspension parts | From 300 |
Radiator welding | From 500 |
Welding of any other parts | Negotiable |
Prices for soldering non-ferrous metals (aluminum, copper, titanium and their alloys)
Name of works | Price, rub |
Soldering 1 hole up to 10 mm | 500 |
Radiator soldering honeycomb 1 damage | 500 |
Radiator soldering with 1 or more damages | 300 for 1 damage |
Soldering copper tubes | From 300 |
Soldering of household appliance parts | Negotiable |
Soldering an aluminum tube | From 300 |
Prices for welding work (Semiautomatic, Campy)
Name of works | Price, rub |
Welding seam up to 100 mm | from 5 |
Welding seam more than 100 mm | Negotiable |
Welding muffler pipes | From 500 |
Small welding work | Negotiable |
Prices for car air conditioning repairs.
Prices for car air conditioning repairs.
Prices for car air conditioning repairs.
Full refilling of the car air conditioner 1500 rubles 00 kopecks.
Name of works | Price, rub |
Replacing the air conditioning compressor bearing | From 1000 |
Manufacturing repair of air conditioner hose | From 1000 |
Air conditioner diagnostics | 500 |
flushing the car air conditioning system | From 8000 |
air conditioning compressor repair | From 1000 |
air conditioning compressor replacement | From 1000 |
antibacterial cleaning of car air conditioners; | 1500 |
radiator repair, car heater radiator repair | From 500 |
refrigerator maintenance; | From 500 |
car air conditioner electrical repair; | From 500 |
Manufacturing Repair of car air conditioning tube | From 1000 |
Replacing the car air conditioner clutch | From 500 |
Replacing the electric coupling of a car air conditioner | From 1000 |
Replacing the air conditioner radiator | From 1000 |
Replacing the rear circuit of a car air conditioner | From 15000 |
Car air conditioner bearing replacement | From 800 |
Replacing the car air conditioner oil seal | From 1000 |
Blowing (cleaning radiators) | From 500 |
Replacing the expansion (capillary) tube | From 500 |
Replacing the expansion valve | From 700 |
Replacing the pressure sensor | From 300 |
Replacing the filling nipple | From 300 |
Removal and installation of receiver-dryer | From 500 |
Cleaning the Evaporator Drain Tube | From 300 |
List of prices for car vinyl wraps.
Prices for tire fitting
Cost of straightening a cast wheel
Radius | Cost, rub.) |
13 | 600 |
14 | 800 |
15 | 1100 |
16 | 1200 |
17 | 1400 |
18 | 1900 |
19 | 2200 |
20 | 2600 |
21 | 3200 |
22 | 3700 |
23 | 4300 |
Seasonal replacement of rubber, wheels, tires
Name of works | Tire size | |||||||
12-14 | 15 | 16 | 17 | 18 | 19 | 20 | 21 | |
Seasonal wheel change with balancing (Cars) | 900 | 1100 | 1250 | 1500 | 1700 | 1900 | 2000 | 2300 |
Seasonal wheel change with balancing (SUVs – Minibuses) | 1500 | 1500 | 1500 | 1800 | 2000 | 2300 | 2500 | 2800 |
Seasonal tire change (Cars) | 1300 | 1500 | 1800 | 2100 | 2400 | 2800 | 3100 | 3400 |
Seasonal tire change (SUVs, SUVs, Minivans, Minibuses) | 2200 | 2200 | 2200 | 2500 | 2900 | 3400 | 3700 | 4100 |
Prices for tire fitting work
Name of works | Tire size | ||||||||
12-14 | 15 | 16 | 17 | 18 | 19 | 20 | 21 | Gazelle | |
Removing + installing a wheel | 90 | 110 | 130 | 140 | 160 | 170 | 190 | 230 | 200 |
Dismantling + mounting of tire | 100 | 110 | 140 | 150 | 180 | 220 | 270 | 280 | 250 |
Wheel balancing | 110 | 140 | 160 | 200 | 230 | 270 | 280 | 310 | 200 |
Wheel cleaning | 30 | 30 | 30 | 40 | 40 | 50 | 50 | 50 | 50 |
Re-shoeing (1 wheel) | 330 | 390 | 460 | 530 | 610 | 710 | 790 | 870 | 700 |
Camera repair* | from 150 | ||||||||
Puncture repair of a tubeless tire with installation of a harness* | 150 | ||||||||
Repairing a tubeless tire puncture with installation of a fungus or patch* | from 300 | ||||||||
Sealant Sides (2 sides)* | 250 | ||||||||
Valve installation* | 50 | ||||||||
Cleaning and lubrication of wheel studs, bolts (4 wheels)* | 200 | ||||||||
Checking pressure and inflating tires | 20 | ||||||||
Packing 1 wheel in a bag | 25 | ||||||||
Booster (explosion-pumping of 1 wheel) | 70 | ||||||||
Cost increase factor for low-profile tires ⩽ 50 (1 wheel) | +150 | ||||||||
Increase in price for SUVs, SUVs, Minivans, Minibuses | +20% | ||||||||
Mobile tire service visit | Outside the Moscow Ring Road, + 30 rub. for 1 km. (Minimum order cost 2000 rub.) |
Additional services
Name of works | |||||||||
Replacing pads | from 300 rub. | ||||||||
Replacing spark plugs | from 300 rub. | ||||||||
Replacing lamps | from 100 rub. | ||||||||
Accumulator charging | 200 rub. | ||||||||
Minor repairs | by agreement | ||||||||
Replacing wheel studs | from 700 rub. per wheel |
Checking a new thermostat before installation
Before replacing the VAZ-2114 thermostat, you need to check the functionality of the new one. The check is performed in the following order:
- Fill the container with water and place the device in it.
- Place the dish with the appliance on the stove and heat it, controlling the heating temperature.
We heat the water with the device, controlling the temperature
- When the temperature rises to 85˚C, the valve will open.
Purpose of the device
Thermostat for VAZ-2114 car
Essentially, a thermostat is a large valve whose task is to allow (or, conversely, not to allow) coolant into the car radiator . When the car's engine has just started, it remains cold for some time, as does the coolant. During this period of time, the thermostat valve is closed, so that the coolant is directed in the so-called small circle. And when the engine temperature reaches 90°C, the valve in the device automatically opens and the coolant begins to circulate in a large circle and enters the radiator. Thanks to this operating scheme, the engine temperature is kept at a constant level, and overheating is eliminated.
Causes and symptoms of thermostat malfunction
Being an important part of the car, the thermostat has many reasons for failure. The most common is corrosion.
Other reasons:
- The thermostat is stuck in the closed position. The consequence is engine overheating;
- the valve is stuck open. The consequence is that the engine takes time to warm up.
Signs indicating a device malfunction:
- the sensor arrow indicating the temperature is in the red (inadmissible) zone;
- in winter, the interior does not warm up well;
- the bypass valve sticks, the engine remains cold;
- the engine often overheats.
Thermostat replacement cost
There are many specialized salons offering thermostat replacement services. Its cost starts from 400 rubles.
It is important to choose the right thermostat. The main and main criterion is the metal from which the case is made. As already mentioned, the main cause of failure is corrosion. Chinese thermostats quickly become rusty. It is recommended to buy a case made of stainless metal or brass, which will serve you for many years without corroding.
Procedure for replacing the thermostat on a VAZ 2114
Having established that the coolant flow regulator is faulty, it is necessary to resolve the issue of replacing it. Before starting work, you need to prepare a new device, screwdrivers, keys for “12” and “13”, a sealing gasket, silicone sealant, antifreeze to replace the old one, a container for draining used coolant, new cooling system pipes.
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When choosing a new regulator, you need to find out which thermostat is better for the VAZ 2114 and how much the thermostat for the VAZ 2114 costs. You need to choose a device based on the price-quality ratio. The price of a VAZ 2114 thermostat ranges from 280 to 500 rubles.
To replace it, it is best to go to the inspection hole in the garage and give time for the engine to cool down before changing the thermostat on the VAZ 2114. Antifreeze should not be hot, otherwise you can get burned during operation.
- Open the hood and remove the air filter. Take this opportunity to check the condition of the filter element and replace it if necessary.
- Open the cap of the expansion tank and, opening the antifreeze drain plug on the radiator, drain the liquid into a specially prepared container.
- Loosen the clamps on the cooling system hoses that go to the flow regulator, including on the thermostat itself.
- Using wrenches, unscrew the studs and fastening nuts on the device body, removing the ground wire.
- Disconnect the hoses and, shaking slightly, disconnect the thermostat.
- Before installing a new device, you need to clean the mounting points and check the hoses. During operation, they crack and begin to leak antifreeze and air. Replace damaged hoses.
- Before installing a new thermostat, it is necessary to coat the pipes on its body with sealant and allow it to dry slightly.
- Install a new one in place of the old gasket, fasten the studs with nuts and put on the pipes. Carefully tighten the clamps and be sure to check the tightness of the connections.
- After first checking the closure of the drain plug, add fresh antifreeze in the required quantity.
- Start the engine and check that the valve of the newly installed thermostat opens at the desired temperature.
- Check the functionality of the heater radiator. If hot air flows evenly, then the antifreeze is filled correctly and there are no air pockets.
During operation, the driver must carefully monitor the operation of this important device and under no circumstances allow the engine to overheat.
Replacement or repair
Of course, it is possible to repair a broken device, but is it really that effective? If you consider the repair option, it is recommended that it be carried out exclusively in the field if you have the necessary tools. If the valve is not working, you can try to clean it in order to get to your destination. After this, it is recommended to immediately replace it.
The thermostat on the VAZ 2114 is a consumable item, the cost of which is not so high to try to repair it. Purchasing a new device guarantees its long service life, while a refurbished device may break down after just a few days. Therefore, in the event of a breakdown, it is recommended to install an analogue, even within 500 rubles, which can definitely last at least six months to a year.