✅ Diameter of stove pipes VAZ 2109

Engine cooling system VAZ-21083

1 – expansion tank; 2 – expansion tank plug; 3 – steam removal hose; 4 – hose from the expansion tank to the thermostat; 5 – radiator supply hose; 6 – radiator outlet hose; 7 – left radiator tank; 8 – aluminum radiator tubes; 9 – sensor for turning on the electric fan; 10 – right radiator tank; 11 – drain plug; 12 – radiator core; 13 – electric fan casing; 14 – electric fan impeller; 15 – electric motor; 16 – pump gear pulley; 17 – pump impeller; 18 – camshaft drive toothed belt; 19 – heater radiator outlet pipe; 20 – pump supply pipe; 21 – tap; 22 – heater radiator; 23 – hose for draining fluid from the heating of the inlet pipe to the carburetor heating block; 24 – carburetor heating block; 25 – exhaust pipe; 26 – heater supply pipe; 27 – hose for draining fluid from the heating of the inlet pipe and the carburetor heating unit; 28 – coolant temperature indicator sensor; 29 – thermostat.

VAZ-2111 engine cooling system (with fuel injection system)

1 – expansion tank; 2 – plug; 3 – steam removal hose; 4 – hose from the expansion tank to the thermostat; 5 – coolant temperature sensor in the outlet pipe; 6 – throttle unit; 7 – radiator supply hose; 8 – radiator outlet hose; 9 – left radiator tank; 10 – right radiator tank; 11 – drain plug; 12 – radiator core; 13 – electric fan casing; 14 – electric fan impeller; 15 – electric motor; 16 – pump gear pulley; 17 – pump impeller; 18 – camshaft drive toothed belt; 19 – heater radiator outlet pipe; 20 – pump supply pipe; 21 – tap; 22 – heater radiator; 23 – coolant drain hose from the throttle pipe; 24 – coolant supply hose to the throttle pipe; 25 – coolant temperature indicator sensor; 26 – exhaust pipe; 27 – heater supply pipe; 28 – thermostat; 29 – coolant level sensor.

Pipes and hoses VAZ 2108-21099

Engine pipes 21082 reinforced rubber red for VAZ 2108-21099, 2113-2115 injector

Heater pipes reinforced rubber blue 21082 for VAZ 2108-21099, 2113-2115 injector

Blue silicone radiator pipes for VAZ 2108-21099, 2113-2115 injector

Blue silicone stove pipes for VAZ 2108-21099, 2113-2115 injector

Silicone blue expansion tank pipe for VAZ 2108-21099, 2113-2115 injector

Blue silicone breather pipe for VAZ 2108-21099, 2113-2115

Radiator pipes reinforced rubber red for VAZ 2108-21099, 2113-2115 injector

Crankcase ventilation hose (breather) silicone blue for VAZ 2108-21099, 2113-2115

Radiator pipes reinforced rubber red for VAZ 2108-21099 carburetor

Throttle pipe heating hose for VAZ 2108-21099, 2110-2112, 2113-2115 injector

Heater pipes reinforced blue rubber for VAZ 2108-21099 carburetor

Heater pipes reinforced red rubber for VAZ 2108 carburetor

Expansion tank hose (from tank to radiator) for 2108-2115

Thermostat pipe injector corner for VAZ 2108-21099, 2110-2112, 2113-2115, Priora

Blue silicone hose 1 meter diameter 20 mm

Heater pipes 21082 reinforced rubber red for VAZ 2108-21099, 2113-2115 injector

Silicone blue expansion tank pipe for VAZ 2108-21099, 2113-2115 carburetor

Blue silicone radiator pipes for VAZ 2108-21099 carburetor

Blue silicone hose 1 meter diameter 8 mm

Blue silicone stove pipes for VAZ 2108-21099 carburetor

Carburetor outlet hose for VAZ 2108-21099

Set of engine pipes silicone blue cs20 profi for VAZ 2108-21099, 2113-2115

Thin breather hose (pipe) for VAZ 2108-21099

Rear heater supply hose (pipe) for VAZ 2108-21099, 2113-2115

Radiator drain hose (pipe) for VAZ 2108-21099 injector

Thermostat connecting pipe (short) for VAZ 2108-21099, 2113-2115

Breather pipe Forward Auto parts for VAZ 2108-21099, 2113-2115

Upper crankcase exhaust ventilation hose Forward Auto parts for VAZ 2108-21099, 2110, 2113-2115, Lada Kalina

Set of engine pipes silicone blue cs20 profi for VAZ 2108-21099, 2113-2115 with engine 21082

Cooling system filling hose for VAZ 2108-21099, 2113-2115

Upper (small) crankcase exhaust ventilation breather hose (pipe) for VAZ 2108-21099

Radiator supply hose for VAZ 2108-21099, 2113-2115

Exhaust cooling system pipe without hole for temperature sensor on VAZ 2108-21099

Rear heater outlet hose (pipe) for VAZ 2108-21099, 2113-2115

Radiator supply hose (pipe) for VAZ 2108-21099 injector

Heater heater outlet hose (pipe) front VAZ 2108-21099, 2113-2115

Heater pipe (engine compartment, small) 2108-8101208R for VAZ 2108-21099

Heater heater supply hose (pipe) front Forward Auto spare part for VAZ 2108-21099, 2113-2115

Hose (pipe) of the lower crankcase exhaust ventilation breather on VAZ 2108-21099

Hose outlet fitting for VAZ 2108-21099, 2113-2115

Front supply hose (pipe) for the heater heater on VAZ 2108-21099, 2113-2115

Water pump outlet pipe with hole for temperature sensor on VAZ 2108, 2110-2112

Radiator outlet hose (pipe) Forward Auto spare part for VAZ 2108-21099 injector

Set of heater system pipes for VAZ 2108-21099

Set of heater system pipes for VAZ 2108-21099 (injector)

Description of design

The cooling system is liquid, closed type, with forced circulation. The tightness of the system is ensured by the inlet and outlet valves in the expansion tank plug. The exhaust valve maintains pressure in the system when the engine is hot (due to this, the boiling point of the liquid increases and steam losses are reduced), it opens at a pressure of about 1.1 kgf/cm2. The intake valve opens when the pressure in the system decreases relative to atmospheric pressure by 0.03–0.13 kgf/cm2 (on a cooling engine). The thermal operating conditions of the engine are maintained by a thermostat and an electric radiator fan.

The coolant pump is a vane, centrifugal type, driven from the crankshaft pulley by a camshaft drive timing belt. The pump housing is aluminum. The roller rotates in a double-row bearing with a “lifetime” supply of lubricant. The outer ring of the bearing is locked with a screw. A toothed pulley is pressed onto the front end of the roller, and an impeller is pressed onto the rear end. The distance from the mating surface of the pump cover to the outer end of the pulley should be 52±0.5 mm, and to the outer (facing the block) end of the impeller - 39.8±0.1 mm. A thrust ring made of a graphite-containing composition is pressed to the opposite end of the impeller, under which there is an oil seal. If the pump fails, it is recommended to replace it as an assembly.

The redistribution of liquid flows is controlled by a thermostat with a solid heat-sensitive element. On a cold engine, the thermostat valve closes the pipe leading to the radiator, and the liquid circulates only in a small circle (through the thermostat bypass pipe), bypassing the radiator. On VAZ-2108, -21081, -21083 engines, the small circle includes the heater radiator, intake manifold, carburetor throttle assembly heating unit (on engines with semi-automatic starting - and the liquid chamber of the semi-automatic starting device). On the -2111 engine, fluid is supplied to the heater and the throttle assembly heating unit.

At a temperature of 87±2 °C, the thermostat valve begins to move, opening the main pipe, while part of the liquid circulates in a large circle through the radiator. At a temperature of about 102 ° C, the main valve opens completely, and the bypass valve closes, and all the liquid circulates through the engine radiator. The stroke of the main valve must be at least 8 mm.

The radiator consists of two vertical plastic tanks (the left one has a baffle) and two horizontal rows of round aluminum tubes with pressed-on cooling plates. To increase cooling efficiency, the plates are stamped with a notch. The tubes are connected to the tanks through a rubber gasket. The liquid is supplied through the upper pipe and discharged through the lower. Next to the inlet pipe there is a thin pipe for the steam pipe.

The electric radiator fan on VAZ-2108, -21081, -21083 engines is switched on by a sensor-switch screwed into the right radiator tank. Its contacts close at a temperature of 99±3 °C and open at 94±3 °C. On cars manufactured before 1998 (with an old fuse box), another sensor (TM-108) was installed that controls the fan motor through relay 113.3747 in the mounting block. On the -2111 engine, the fan is turned on by a signal from the electronic engine control unit (via a relay).

The expansion tank is made of translucent polyethylene, which allows you to visually monitor the liquid level. In its upper part there is a fitting for the steam removal hose from the engine cooling radiator.

To monitor the coolant temperature, a sensor is screwed into the engine cylinder head and is connected to a temperature gauge on the dashboard. An additional temperature sensor is installed in the engine exhaust pipe -2111, which provides information to the electronic engine control unit.

When the engine overheats, the control unit turns on the “Check Engine” warning light in the instrument cluster (see Controls and Instruments).

The heating system is described in the chapter Heating and ventilation system.

Replacing pipes

And when it’s time to change the heater radiator pipes on your VAZ 2109, don’t be afraid to do the replacement yourself. First of all, it is important to know where the stove radiator and its pipes are located. So, the heater radiator is located on the right heater casing (that is, to the right of the panel of heater control levers), direct access is blocked by the dashboard console. The price of the pipes themselves is a pittance, but for replacement at a service station they will demand a tidy sum, why? Now you will see for yourself. There are two ways to replace pipes (the methods are also suitable for replacing a stove radiator):

The first - (the so-called classic) is carried out in accordance with the instructions (manual) for the operation, maintenance and repair of the VAZ2109.
It involves removing the dashboard and draining the fluid from the engine cooling system.
The second is simpler (folk), does not require complex manipulations
In our article we will consider both methods so that you can choose the most convenient one for you.

Radiator replacement

Sometimes a clogged or damaged radiator causes the heater to not work properly. If this happens, you should replace it with a new, similar one.

It is done as follows (without dismantling the panel):

Place the car in a pit and drain the coolant (the same as when replacing a valve).
To quickly and more completely drain the coolant, unscrew the cap of the expansion tank.
After draining, screw the plug-bolt into place.
From inside, close the tap by moving its lever to the left position.
Move the passenger seat back as far as possible.
Remove the plug in the center of the panel and unscrew the screw underneath it.
Unscrew the 4 screws securing the left panel cover.
Unscrew 6 screws (3 on top and bottom) on the steering column casing, and then remove the casing.
Disconnect the radio and cigarette lighter connectors.
Remove the plastic covers on the stove adjustment levers.
Unscrew a couple of screws in the upper part of the center console, and then remove the latter.
Unscrew the diagnostic connector mounting bolts.
Disconnect all remaining electrical connectors in the console.
Remove the console completely.
Unscrew the screws securing the panel base to the body.
Remove the 4 screws securing the panel from the side.
Unscrew the panel screws in the center.
Remove the ECU.
Lift and secure the panel.
Loosen the pipe clamps and remove them.
Drain the leaking liquid.
Unscrew the bolts securing the radiator (4 pieces).
Remove the old radiator.
Install a new radiator.

Reassembly is carried out in the same sequence, but in reverse order.

"Folk" way

Folk craftsmen - these are brave and very desperate craftsmen - offer a much less labor-intensive method. The bottom line is that replacing the stove pipes (and the stove itself) is done without draining the coolant and without dismantling the instrument panel. The tools you will need are a set of screwdrivers, rags and a container (small) to drain the liquid from the pipes. In this case, replacing the heater radiator pipes is carried out according to the following scheme:

Removing the terminals from the battery
Close the heater tap
We remove the right front seat (to make it easier to do the work)
We unscrew the two screws securing the dashboard on the right side, and one screw located in the glove compartment, then, pulling the dashboard towards you, we place a wooden block
Now there is a gap on the side of the passenger seat and you can get to the pipes and to the heater radiator itself
Lay a rag on the floor of the cabin and prepare a container to collect the coolant
Which will spill from the radiator and pipes
We loosen the clamps of the pipes (photo above) and carefully, one by one, remove them from the radiator, replacing the container. 200 - 300 grams of coolant will drain into it
Replace the pipes with new ones, and change the clamps, just in case.
If necessary, unscrew the three bolts that secure the radiator to the stove and pull it down to the right
We install the pipes and the new radiator in the reverse order.

Here are both methods, choose the one that suits you, and also watch a video on this topic.

Classic way

It is worth noting right away that it is quite labor-intensive and will take quite a lot of time. You will need a lot of patience and care (as mentioned above). The most difficult part is removing the instrument panel and installing it, as it is much more difficult to get the instrument panel into place correctly.

Tool

You will need:

Coolant drain container
Screwdriver Set
Head with a wrench to unscrew the steering wheel

Let's start in order:

Removing the terminals from the battery
With the heater tap open, drain the coolant by unscrewing the drain plugs located on the radiator and cylinder block (into a substitute container)
Removing the decorative trim from the steering wheel
We unscrew the nut securing the steering wheel so that its end is flush with the end of the steering column shaft.
The steering wheel is seated very tightly on the shaft splines, so for safety reasons it is not recommended to completely unscrew the nut securing the steering wheel: with a sharp impact, it will jump off the splines and can cause injury
Be sure to mark the location of the steering wheel in relation to the shaft
Knock the steering wheel off the shaft splines with sharp blows of your hand.
Now you can finally unscrew the nut and remove the steering wheel
Unscrew the six screws securing the lower steering column casing
Remove the lower casing from the steering column, as well as the lining of the ignition switch (lock)
Then remove the upper casing from the steering column
Loosen the bolt securing the base under the steering switches
We remove the base from the shaft, disconnect the blocks with wires (there are two of them) from the contacts of the car horn
Now we disconnect the block with wiring from the windshield wiper and washer switch lever
It is recommended to mark the terminals with wiring before disconnecting. This will help you avoid confusion during assembly and save time.
Disconnect the block with wiring from the headlight and turn signal switch lever
Pull the carburetor choke control handle (aka “choke”) towards you so that the draft comes out, remove the handle from it
Unscrew the two screws securing the dashboard console trim
Removing the cover from the console
Remove the cigarette lighter from the socket
We take out the ashtray from the nest by pressing on the plate to extinguish cigarettes
Remove the handle that switches the heater fan
Then we remove the three knobs that control the stove and hook them with a screwdriver
Disconnect the block with wiring from the heater fan switch, located under the heater control panel
Disconnect two wires from the contacts of the lamp illuminating the heater control panel
Remove the headlight direction adjustment handle, just pull it towards you
Now remove the instrument cluster lighting switch knob
Unscrew the nut securing the instrument lighting switch
Unscrew the nut securing the headlight hydraulic corrector
We push the hydraulic corrector for headlights and the instrument lighting switch inside the panel
Remove the side nozzles located on both sides of the dashboard using a screwdriver
Unscrew one screw securing the trim on both sides of the dashboard
Using a screwdriver, use a screwdriver to remove the exterior lighting switch.
Disconnect the block with wires from the switch. Push the block inside the dashboard
We use a screwdriver and remove the socket intended for radio equipment. If you have radio equipment installed on your VAZ 2109, remove it first
We remove radio equipment according to the manufacturer’s instructions
Then unscrew the screw securing the trim to the dashboard
We insert two screwdrivers so that we can bend the plastic latches
Raising the dashboard trim
Disconnect the wiring harness from the cigarette lighter
Disconnect the block with wiring from the block for lighting the cigarette lighter
Disconnect the block with wiring from the lamp illuminating the hazard warning switch
We disconnect the block with wiring from the hazard warning switch, and finally remove the dashboard trim
Gently press down and remove the speaker cover located on the left side of the dashboard. Be careful - latches break easily
Disconnect the block with wiring from the heated glass switch
Remove the block from the rear fog lamp switch
Unscrew the two screws securing the instrument cluster
We take out the instrument cluster from the dashboard, unscrew the nut securing the cable from the speedometer and disconnect it

Removing the instrument panel

Attention: Disconnect the connectors with wiring for additional equipment, if installed on your car.

So:

Disconnect the red block from the instrument cluster
Then disconnect the block from the control system
Disconnect the white block from the instrument cluster
Disconnect the ignition switch block from the ignition relay
Disconnect the ground wire of the ignition relay
Disconnect the control lamp block for opening the air damper
Unscrew one screw from the lower mounting of the dashboard on both sides
Disconnect the drawer light lamp block
Unscrew the two screws securing the heater control panel and lower it down
Unscrew the two screws securing the air damper guide rod to the dashboard
Unscrew two screws from the upper mounting of the dashboard on both sides
We use a screwdriver and remove one plug at a time from both sides of the dashboard.
Unscrew one screw from the side mounting of the dashboard on both sides
Unscrew the screw of the central fastening of the instrument panel
Remove the dashboard
After replacing the pipes or the heater radiator itself, we assemble the panel in the reverse order
After installing the panel, we check the operation of the switches and all devices to ensure they are connected correctly

Let's return to the heater radiator pipes; we have already removed the panel:

We disconnect the plastic clamp located on the right side of the heater, which holds the damper rod that heats the windshield
Loosen the clamps and disconnect both pipes from the heater tap from inside the car under the dashboard

Loosen the clamps and remove the pipes

Then loosen the clamps and disconnect both pipes from the heater valve located in the engine compartment (if you are going to remove the heater valve, otherwise skip it)

Disconnect the pipes in the engine compartment

We replace the pipes with new ones, it’s better to replace the clamps right away, even if they are still suitable, it’s better not to risk it
If necessary, you can unscrew the three screws securing the radiator to the stove
And, raising the rod, pull out the heater radiator to check its condition and replace it

This is exactly how craftsmen are required to replace the VAZ 2109 stove pipes (replacement pipes) in service centers and auto repair shops. For owners who decide to do this work with their own hands, it is necessary to take into account that it will take 4-6 hours

Replacing the heater inlet pipe on a VAZ-2108 car

If you value your vehicle, strive to ensure that your V8 not only moves, but pleases you with its trouble-free and highest quality work, then it is useful for you to periodically carry out preventive inspections. Sometimes the car itself announces problems with specific sounds, characteristic hissing, and leaking. However, you, as the owner of a car, may not notice a problem that has already arisen, but also one that is just emerging. All components have their own service life, after which they have to be replaced. Sometimes individual parts and mechanisms fail ahead of schedule due to various circumstances, including the frequency and duration of trips.

Replacement process

It's puddles like these that make drivers scratch their heads and wonder what action to take. Not every VAZ-2108 car owner knows how to replace a cracked pipe. We hasten to assure you that the replacement process itself is unlikely to seem like one that requires the use of great physical force. However, along with this, you need to prepare yourself for the fact that you will have to lose some time, since getting to the problem pipe will not be so easy. You will need to unscrew and remove some other devices that prevent access to the pipes.

Algorithm of actions

First of all, remember that replacing elements involved in the cooling and heating system can only be done after the engine has completely cooled down. For this reason, give your car a chance to sit, rest after a long trip, and allow the engine to cool down. At this moment, you can afford not only to drink a cup of coffee, but even watch your favorite movie. You can personally spend the same time allocated for forced waiting by visiting specialized stores. Search for all the necessary auto parts, including purchasing an intake pipe.

The store specialist will definitely ask you what diameter the heater pipes of your VAZ-2108 have. If you do not have such information, then either measure in advance or find the answer to your question on the Internet. Once you have everything in place to carry out the replacement, and the engine has already cooled down, you can begin to take immediate action. By the way, when dismantling devices, we recommend that you visually inspect them to make sure that they are in working order, and not bite your elbows when, in a few days, such a lengthy disassembly is required again due to the failure of another device. Pay special attention to hoses and rubber products.

Prepare a large container into which to drain the coolant. This is important, because when the components are disconnected, willy-nilly, the liquid will not just begin to flow out, but will flow in a continuous stream. Of course, if the fluid has already been used up, it’s not a shame to lose it, but if you just recently changed it, it’s better to keep the fluid so as not to expose yourself to additional unforeseen financial expenses.

In most cases, the hose is secured to the fittings using clamps. Take a screwdriver in your hands and loosen the clamp, then move it up a little to release the intake pipe. If you recently changed it, it can be removed without any problems, but if the installation process was carried out several months ago or even years, it will not be so easy to remove it. The pipes turn out to be “stuck” to the fittings. It is impossible to use physical force to disconnect a cracked pipe, since both it and the fittings are not very strong elements, so brute force can cause additional problems.

In cases where your careful efforts have not brought you closer to your cherished goal, pick up a hacksaw for metal and carefully cut off the pipe. Then cut the remaining part in several places and carefully remove it too.

Before putting the new pipe on the fitting, apply a special sealant to it. After this, tighten the clamps tightly to ensure a secure fit. All that remains is to refill the coolant. We recommend that you first remove the mixing chamber heating pipe that goes to the carburetor. This little trick will allow you to prevent the system from becoming airy.

So, replacing pipes is not a complicated procedure, especially if you first read the recommendations. It is only important to accompany each action with extreme care so as not to provoke damage to additional elements of the heating and cooling system.

Replacing the stove tap

It often happens that a part such as a faucet breaks (it is worth noting that on the 2114 it is not very reliable). When replacing it, you should simultaneously replace the pipes, even if they are in good working order (the location of the pipes of the VAZ 2114 stove was described above).

All faucet replacements are performed in the following order:

place the car in the pit and secure it;
unscrew the screw plug and drain the coolant;
using a screwdriver, loosen the clamps on the pipes located in the engine compartment, and then remove them;
find the tap in the passenger compartment on the passenger side (located under the panel), loosen the clamps of the pipes suitable for it, and then remove them;
Using a 10mm wrench, unscrew a pair of nuts screwed onto the studs and securing the valve body;
from the interior side, pull out the tap and disconnect the control cable from it;
install a new (similar) faucet in its original place;
perform assembly in the same sequence, but in reverse order.

Before disconnecting the pipes (especially those located in the passenger compartment), you should place a cloth under them in case of coolant leakage.

Many car enthusiasts who carry out such a replacement are sometimes interested in how to properly connect the pipes to the VAZ 2114 stove? After all, by mistake or forgetfulness, you can connect them incorrectly, which will disrupt the normal circulation of coolant.

In order not to make a mistake, it is worth remembering that the connection diagram for the connection pipes of the VAZ 2114 stove is as follows: the pipes located in the engine compartment are connected: the first - from the tap (inlet) to the hole in the cylinder head, the second - from the tap (outlet) - to "saxophone". The connections in the cabin are connected: the first - from the tap to the thermostat, the second - from the tap to the pump inlet.

For even greater convenience, you can use the following general diagram of the heating system:

It is worth noting that the pipes located inside the cabin vary greatly in length, so it is extremely difficult to confuse their location.

The device of the VAZ-21099 stove

There would be no question of any comfort while traveling in a VAZ-21099 car if the interior of this sedan were not equipped with a heating system. Moreover, ensuring a comfortable temperature in the cabin can be considered a secondary task, and the main one is heating the glass (windshield and side front doors) to ensure visibility in conditions of reduced temperatures.

The VAZ-21099 uses a heating system that is classic for all cars, in which the air is heated using an additional radiator of the cooling system installed in the cabin under the dashboard. Thanks to this location, it is possible to provide heating for several zones - airflow onto the windshields and side windows, under the feet and directly into the cabin itself.

To ensure the efficiency of the stove, it is necessary that the flow movement is not spontaneous (due to temperature changes), but forced. And for this purpose, the heating system is additionally equipped with an electric fan.

Radiator check

In most cases, there is a failure of one part of the VAZ-21099 stove. The check can begin with the radiator of the heating system.

In this case, it is advisable to carry out the check after any of the following manifestations appear in the cabin:

specific smell;
steam coming from exhaust vents;
rapid evaporation of the liquid used for cooling.

In such situations, it is initially recommended to check the radiator, and any actions are best carried out after the engine has been turned off and it has had time to cool down.

If, nevertheless, no problems were found in the radiator, most likely the VAZ-21099 heater valve will need to be replaced. However, additional steps are required before this happens.

First of all, you need to carefully inspect the radiator you are using for potential leaks and the condition of its design.

How to check the radiator before understanding whether the heater valve of a VAZ-21099 car needs to be replaced or not.

At the very beginning, you need to disconnect and remove the car battery. After this, the antifreeze is drained from the cooling system. The next stage is the sensor and motor. Now you can remove the casing fasteners and carefully disconnect all the wires. In addition, you can remove the protective cover. The final stage is to disconnect the hoses, slightly tilt the radiator to the side and pull the part out. In most cases, replacement of rubber shock absorbers installed on special radiator holders is required. After removing the unit, you will need to install tight plugs on the pipes or holes to which they are connected. According to this scheme, air is gradually pumped into the radiator

It is important to note that the air pressure should not exceed 0.2 MPa. Then it is allowed to lower the radiator into a bath of water, remembering that the unit must be completely covered

The appearance of air bubbles indicates a leak in the seal and the need to replace the radiator. If there are no bubbles, the unit is only clogged and requires flushing to clean it.

After the preliminary action, care should be taken to adjust the tap of the VAZ-21099 stove and ensure full heating of the car interior.

Design of the VAZ-21099 heater

And then everything is simple: the created flow passes through the radiator honeycombs, where heat exchange occurs, as a result, heat is transferred to the air, which then blows into the required zones through the air ducts.

The design of the VAZ-21099 stove includes several main components:

stove body made of plastic;
heating system radiator (connected to the cooling system);
electric fan;
air ducts;
heater control mechanism.

This car used heaters of two modifications (old and new), which were slightly different in design, but their components were completely identical.

Housing, radiator, dampers

Thanks to the housing, the required redirection of heating is ensured, since the movement created by the fan motor is immediately fed into it, rather than being dissipated. The body of the VAZ 2109 stove itself consists of two halves, connected to each other with special brackets. To reduce flow losses, a seal is placed between its halves. Partitions are made inside both halves, which provide the correct direction.

There is also a niche inside this case into which the radiator is installed. Initially, the radiator was made of brass, but now it is almost always made of aluminum. The design of the stove radiator 2109 is identical to the main one (consists of two tanks, tubes through which coolant circulates, and plates that form honeycombs), but is significantly smaller in size.

Video: The stove in the VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099, 2110, 2111, 2112, 2113, 2114, 2115 HEATS poorly

Air is blown through the stove dampers, also installed inside the housing. These elements are movable, and thanks to them it is possible to close some and open other air ducts. There are three of them in total - the main one (heater control), an air duct that redirects between the foot area and the supply to the cabin, and a damper for supplying flow to the windshield.

Additional flaps are installed on the side and central deflectors. It turns out that by default, air from the housing constantly blows onto the deflectors and this is done so that the flow always has an exit. Thanks to the existing dampers, it is possible to provide simultaneous supply of hot air to several zones at once (the interior and the windshield or the windshield and the footwell area).

The main heater damper provides air flow to the radiator or bypasses it. This is all done because the heater also plays the role of a forced ventilation system for the interior. This allows for a supply of cool air in the summer. And to do this, you just need to redirect the movement bypassing the heat exchanger, and the supply of heated coolant to the radiator itself will stop. To disconnect the heat exchanger from the cooling system, a heater tap is used, which is located on the supply pipe in front of the radiator.

Checking the functionality of the heater tap

If the cold or hot air supply modes do not switch, the cause may be a loose damper control cable or souring of the mechanism itself. How to open the tap of the VAZ-2109 stove in this situation?

To do this, you need to remove the side panel of the dashboard on the passenger side. Then check the condition of the cable and if this is the reason, then connect it back into place. You can also, without removing the panel, put your hand under the dashboard, where the VAZ-2109 heater tap is located, and move the VAZ-2109 heater damper lever to the desired position. If the lever does not give in, then most likely it has gone sour and must be replaced.

Removing and replacing the heater valve

To replace the VAZ-2109 heater tap, you need a set of tools available to most drivers:

a set of Phillips and slotted screwdrivers;
a set of open-end wrenches No. 10 and No. 13 or socket heads of these sizes, as well as a wrench with a ratchet mechanism and a cardan;
silicone sealant;
container for draining coolant;
metal brush;
universal penetrating lubricant WD-40 or its equivalent;
inspection hole, overpass or lift;
rags to protect the interior flooring from antifreeze.

Ceramic, ball, and electric valves for the VAZ-2109 stove are available for sale. Which heater valves for the VAZ-2109 are better than those listed? With rare use, ball mechanisms are more susceptible to souring, and the electronic automatic heating control system “SAUO” is much more difficult to install. Ceramic mechanisms produced in Russia or “LUZAR” are free of these shortcomings.

Many experienced drivers advise simply replacing the heater taps with water taps. The benefit of this solution is not only in cost, but also in reliability - the coolant either constantly circulates or is easily closed manually at the pipe. Another way to make it easier to change the heater faucet of a VAZ-2109 is to abandon it altogether; the cabin temperature in this case is regulated by air dampers.

Instructions on how to change the heater tap of a VAZ-2109:

Before replacing the valve of the VAZ-2109 heater, place the car on an overpass and, unscrewing the cap on the radiator, drain the coolant into a container prepared in advance.
When the radiator is empty, use a screwdriver to loosen the clamps on the pipes going from the engine to the heater, then use WD-40 and a metal brush to clean the threads on the studs securing the part to be replaced. When finished, completely unscrew the clamps.
Carefully remove the hoses one by one; they may contain residual antifreeze that needs to be drained.

Important! Do not skip this step, because it will not be possible to remove the valve of the VAZ-2109 stove with the hoses connected

Having removed the side trim of the torpedo from inside the cabin, check the condition of the pipes and change them if necessary.
Then, under the car, using a socket wrench No. 10, unscrew the nuts securing the part to be replaced on the VAZ stove
Returning to the car interior, pull the faucet towards you (where the right passenger seat is), remove the spring clamp and disconnect the control cable from the part being replaced.
We take a new spare part and reassemble it in the reverse order.

Important! To prevent future leakage of coolant at the joints of the pipes, it is necessary to treat it with silicone sealant, and also to increase the service life, install rubber seals where the heater faucet is located on the VAZ-2109. https://www.youtube.com/embed/QxX3tCjapJE. https://www.youtube.com/embed/QxX3tCjapJE

https://youtube.com/watch?v=QxX3tCjapJE

We make sure that the radiator plug is in place and fill it with coolant to the required level. Then we start the engine and, having gotten rid of air pockets, check the proper operation of the heater modes. This completes the replacement of the VAZ-2109 heater valve.

Having learned how to replace the heater tap, you can repair your car yourself, without visiting a service station and avoiding unnecessary repair costs.

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How to Open the Faucet on the Stove VAZ 2109

Independent replacement of the VAZ stove tap2109

highest and lowest panel

Based on practice, usually the heater valve needs to be replaced if it starts to leak or becomes stuck so that its regulator stops moving. An old one cannot be repaired, and it cannot be sold restored. Although without this element, interior heating cannot work normally.

How exactly to replace a damaged heater tap on a VAZ-2109 car is done is described in this article.

Heaters old and new

Finally, we note that the VAZ-21099 of different years of production used heaters with certain design features that related to the angle of the radiator and the location of the main damper.

In so-called old-style stoves (on cars before 1998), the radiator was installed almost vertically, and the main damper was located under the heat exchanger. There was a partition between the rear wall of the case and the radiator, which formed a channel that provided air supply down the case.

When the damper was open, the air flow moved through the radiator, where it was heated and supplied to the air ducts. In ventilation mode, the main damper closed the heat exchanger, forming, together with the front wall of the housing, another channel through which the flow went directly to the air ducts.

In the new model stoves (on cars produced since 1998), the radiator position angle was significantly smaller than on old heaters, which is believed to provide a larger contact area of the air flow for heat exchange.

The position of the main damper and its shape also changed (it became arched). It began to be located above the radiator. In the closed position (ventilation mode), the damper ensures air movement along the shortest path to the air ducts. In heating mode, it blocked the cold air supply channel to the air ducts and directed the flow down the housing, from where it went to the heat exchanger.

How to check the condition of the VAZ-2109 pipes

Ideally, an inspection hole is needed to inspect the machine. In a garage this is not always possible, so craftsmen came up with another way out of the situation - they installed the VAZ-2109 on an overpass. You will also need a powerful jack; the car is placed on reliable supports.

To inspect the condition of the VAZ-2109 cooling system, stock up on the following tools:

a lighting fixture with a protective cap that prevents injury from fragments of a broken lamp in case it falls;
antifreeze to top up the fluid in the expansion tank to the maximum level.

Follow the step-by-step instructions and the test will be completed without any difficulties:

Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery.
Lay plywood or a thick sheet of cardboard on the flooring.
First inspect the engine compartment, it is important to understand that the temperature of the cooling radiator and engine is equal to the air temperature.
Evaluate the tightness of the connections of the pipes on the fittings that approach and extend from the radiator.
The fit of the expansion component to the thermostat must also be carefully checked and felt by running your palm along the bottom of the connections. If the tightness leaves much to be desired, liquid is released.
Tighten the clamps properly, but do not over-tighten, otherwise you may damage the pipe.
Lie down on the cardboard placed under the VAZ-2109 and inspect the pipe along with the incoming pipe of the water pump. The hoses responsible for the interior heating system are also important.
Pay attention to the pipes under the hood.
Do not go past the rubber channels adjacent to the carburetor.
Tighten the radiator drain plug and antifreeze temperature gauge securely.

Examination

If there is no inspection hole in the garage, then the car must be placed on an overpass. In bad weather conditions, it is still better to drive it into the garage. Raise it higher with a jack and place reliable supports under each part of the machine.

Note: Never leave your vehicle on a jack for long periods of time.

To work you will need:

tool set;
a lamp with a protective cap - in case of a fall or impact, the lamp will not break, and the fragments will not cause injury;
antifreeze for topping up.

First you need to disconnect the negative terminal from the battery.
Lay a sheet of plywood or thick cardboard on the floor.
It is necessary to start the inspection from the engine compartment and first make sure that the temperature of the cooling radiator and the engine has reached the ambient temperature.

Check the connections of the pipes on the outlet and inlet fittings of the radiator.
The connections to the thermostat at the expansion tank are also carefully checked.

Dismantling the worn-out cooling system of the VAZ-2109

If the coolant hoses are not in perfect condition, you will have to replace not only one worn component, but the entire system.

To install new parts, you need to dismantle the old ones.

Do-it-yourself dismantling of the cooling system consists of the following steps:

Remove the cap from the expansion tank.
Unscrew the heating valve inside the VAZ-2109, rotate the lever clockwise until it hits the end point.
Remove the crankcase protective part by carefully unscrewing the fasteners.
The coolant is drained into a prepared container with a volume of up to 8 liters. To do this, it is convenient to use a metal canister - it is easiest to drain antifreeze from it back into the VAZ-2109. Clean the area near the radiator drain plug and cylinder block, making sure that no dirt gets into the antifreeze. Place the container under the radiator.
When the antifreeze is drained, tighten the plugs located on the radiator and housing.
Replacing cooling pipes in a VAZ-2109 also involves dismantling work inside the cabin. Unscrew the bolts securing the instrument panel, get rid of the passenger and driver's seats - you can move them as far back as possible.
Disconnect the clamps connecting the transmission tubes and provided for filling new antifreeze from the heater tap. It is located between the engine compartment and the passenger compartment.
If they are pulled out, remove the rubber pipes by turning them on different sides. The parts have to be replaced, so they need to be trimmed with a sharp knife. Do not pull with force, otherwise you may damage the metal fixation of the fittings.
Using a flathead screwdriver, remove the valve located in the engine compartment.
Using pliers, release the holder from the heater tap drive rod.
Clean the faucet and blow out the inside with a pump.
Remove the pipes gradually, you need to dismantle everything coming from the engine and radiator. Remember how they were fixed - at the stage of installing new components, this will help to install them back quickly and correctly.

Replacement

If at least one of the pipes is in doubt, the entire cooling system set must be replaced.

Dismantling

First of all, you need to open the cap from the expansion tank. This must be done so that the cooling system has access to air.
Open the interior heating valve, turn the lever to the right until it stops.
Remove the crankcase protection, first unscrew the fastening bolts.

Note. To drain antifreeze from the radiator and engine, you need to prepare a container. It must be plastic or metal. It is better to use an old 10 liter plastic canister. To do this, cut off the top with a sharp knife. With such a container it will then be easier to backfill the radiator.

Clean the area near the radiator drain plug and cylinder block well so that dirty residues do not get into the drained antifreeze.
First place the prepared container under the radiator drain plug.
Open it and wait for everything to drain.
Do the same work under the cylinder block.
Wait for the antifreeze to drain completely, then tighten both plugs - on the radiator and the block.

Note. The replacement must begin from the interior. To make repairs easier, you need to unscrew the instrument panel fastenings and move them to the side. The front seats - passenger, driver, must be moved to the farthest position towards the rear seats.

Unscrew the clamps securing the antifreeze supply and return pipes from the heating tap. It is located in the partition between the engine compartment and the passenger compartment.
Remove the rubber pipes if they are difficult to turn a little in different directions. Since they will be replaced, then you need to cut them lengthwise with a sharp knife. During operation, hot antifreeze causes the pipes to stick to the metal fittings. Therefore, it can be difficult to remove them, even with great effort.

Instructions for self-replacement of VAZ-2109 cooling pipes

Installation of new hoses for the VAZ-2109 cooling system is divided into the following stages:

Use a wire brush to go over the joints, and then polish the surfaces with a clean cloth. Any small speck can cause a blockage in the cooling system.
Treat the clamps with a fine abrasive file, because when tightening the rubber pipes with clamps, they can easily be damaged by sharp corners.
Place the treated clamps on the pipes; if the pipes do not give in, wash the edges of the fitting with a liquid soap solution.
You should tighten the pipe carefully, try to avoid distortions. The fit must be 100%, exactly in diameter.
Retighten all elements, connections and plugs.
Fill the expansion tank with antifreeze and tighten the cap.

Video instructions for replacing VAZ-2109 cooling hoses can be viewed below:

Sources:

https://wiki.zr.ru/%D0%A1%D0%B8%D1%81%D1%82%D0%B5%D0%BC%D0%B0_%D0%BE%D1%85%D0%BB %D0%B0%D0%B6%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BD%D0%B8%D1%8F_2108 https://masteravaza.ru/sistema-otopleniya/u-zubily-sistema-otopleniya/zamena- patrubkov-pechki-vaz-2109-131 https://remam.ru/vozdsys/zamenit-priyomnij-patrubok-otopitelya-vaz-2108.html https://avtocity365.ru/ustrojstvo-i-ekspluatatsiya-avtomobilya/ustrojstvo- pechki-vaz-21099/ https://ladaautos.ru/vaz-2109/samostoyatelnaya-zamena-patrubkov-oxlazhdeniya-vaz-2109.html

Reasons for the release

The first step is to figure out why the coolant is being thrown out of the expansion tank.

Wear of CO elements. In particular, we are talking about pipes and connecting hoses. They are constantly exposed to high pressure and temperatures. Therefore, over time, their wear and tear is a completely natural phenomenon. As a result, antifreeze begins to be thrown out.
Low quality components. If natural wear and tear is typical for used cars and cooling systems that have been in operation for quite a long time, then when using low-quality components, even on a completely new or updated cooling system, serious problems can arise. An example is simple burrs on the neck of the expansion tank. Because of them, the lid does not fit tightly enough, which leads to a gap and the release of antifreeze.
Expansion tank. Alas, the quality of the plastic from which expansion tanks for the VAZ 2109 are made today leaves much to be desired. Because of it, the plastic simply bursts under high pressure.
Faulty engine. If the engine itself is not working correctly, the coolant may boil. This leads to damage to the thermostat, radiator, and pump.

From this we can conclude that the quality of the CO directly depends on the technical condition of the car and the quality of the components used.

Signs of coolant emission

It is important to understand that coolant can be thrown out not only through the expansion tank cap, but also inside the system. It is important to monitor the condition of the CO and identify signs of a leak in time.

Antifreeze evaporates very quickly, so traces of it are not always visible.

If coolant is released through the reservoir, puddles immediately form under the car.
If liquid enters the cabin due to a malfunction of the CO, this can be determined by the smell. It has a sweetish tint.
Antifreeze also often leaks into the engine system. Such a breakdown is determined by white smoke emanating through the exhaust pipe.
The most unpleasant and dangerous situation is the release of antifreeze into the engine crankcase. If this happens, a white emulsion will appear on the surface of the oil filler cap.
Periodically checking the space under the timing belt cover will determine whether the pump has failed. If yes, then you will find high humidity there.

Signs of boiling

If there are problems with the engine, antifreeze may simply boil in the CO. There is nothing good about this, so it is important to detect the malfunction in time. There are five main signs of coolant boiling:

The temperature gauge jumps to 130 degrees;
White foam appears at the filler neck;
The engine stops working properly;
The coolant level in the expansion tank rises sharply;
White smoke comes out of the exhaust pipe.