? replacing the timing belt? VAZ 2110 8 valves do it yourself

The gas distribution mechanism is one of the main components of a car engine. Replacing the timing belt on an 8-valve VAZ-2112 engine with your own hands is quite a complex procedure and not every motorist can do, but it is quite possible.

Video about replacing the timing belt on 8-valve VAZ cars of the 2110-2112 family:

The video material will tell you how to replace the timing belt with your own hands, and will also tell you about the process itself, the nuances and give some recommendations.

When does a timing belt need to be replaced?

Sometimes, at the same time as replacing the belt, it may be necessary to replace the cooling pump. when signs of malfunction appear or in the following cases:

The timing belt is very old (more than 5 years, even if it has not been used).
Cracks, abrasions and “fluffing”.
Destruction of belt teeth.
Depressurization and leaks in the timing case (oil and coolant destroy the rubber base of the belt).
If the belt is worn out, the engine may start and run unsteadily.
Belt wear can cause an ignition failure, after which the engine begins to knock and run noisily, and black smoke begins to come out of the exhaust pipe.

Timing belt damage analysis

1. When the timing belt is slightly damaged or completely torn and the cord is frayed, then most likely the reason for this is overtension.

2. When one of the teeth is missing, this is a sign of weak belt tension.

3. Lack or high wear of teeth on the belt, in turn, indicates incorrect tension.

4. A cracked timing belt indicates severe overheating or hypothermia.

5. When wear is noticeable between the teeth, the belt is most likely not tensioned correctly. (weak or strong).

It is possible that if the belt is loosely tensioned, the belt will jump over a tooth; in this case, “CHECK” lights up and immediately goes out. This is what the camshaft position sensor signals.

6. An oily timing belt indicates that oil is leaking from the engine somewhere. In this case, you need to replace the belt and look for leaks.

7. Noticeable end wear indicates angular or parallel misalignment of the belt.

8. Increased noise indicates excessive or insufficient belt tension. This problem should be corrected immediately to avoid cutting teeth or breaking the belt.

Consequences of a broken timing belt

Many car enthusiasts have heard that a broken timing belt leaves behind undesirable consequences. So, it can even be fatal to the engine.

So, let's look at the consequences of a timing belt rupture on a running engine:

Minor consequences: valve deformation, guide bushings breaking, oil getting into the cylinders.

Fan of deformed valves

Deformation of valve mounting seats

Deformed connecting rod and broken piston

Troubleshooting Methods

When the main causes are considered and all the consequences of a broken timing belt are determined, then you should look at methods for troubleshooting. So, let's look at how to eliminate the consequences of such an effect.

Many drivers have heard that when the timing belt breaks, the valve bends. This is one of the unimportant reasons why it is necessary to replace this unit in a timely manner. Thus, bent valves lead to breaking of the guide bushings, or rather to an increase in their clearance. Another unpleasant consequence is that the aluminum “cracks” in the mounting areas of the product.

Bent valves due to broken timing belt

To eliminate these consequences, it is necessary to repair the cylinder head, or rather replace the valve guides, the valves themselves and the oil seals.

Of course, the first problem will be how to pull the valve with a deformed bushing out of the block head. Here, you just have to knock them out, but it should be taken into account that the seat will break and during repairs it will be necessary to use argon welding to restore the damaged cavities. It is also recommended to inspect the seat mountings, which are most likely also deformed. If necessary, it is recommended to replace these elements.

Another minor consequence may be that oil gets into the cylinders, so when the cylinder head is removed, it is necessary to inspect and possibly remove any remaining oil. It is also recommended to inspect the appearance of the pistons and oil rings, which may have been damaged.

Medium consequences

If, while driving, the engine did not immediately stop, but continued to work, then the cylinder head could become deformed or receive significant cracks, in addition to the damage already discussed. Thus, the coolant channels could open and antifreeze (antifreeze) could get into the head itself or into the cylinders of the block.

Deformation of valves and guide bushings

Eliminating this malfunction is quite easy and simple, but expensive. Of course, the new cylinder head will work perfectly, but the pricing policy for the parts will not please the owner. Therefore, many car enthusiasts are trying to get out of the situation with minimal costs.

Wait, there are so many manufacturers here. So which timing belt is best?

Yes, there are many companies that produce the necessary materials for replacing the timing belt. They are usually divided into “original” and “analogues” - in the first case, the supplier is the car manufacturer, and in the second - third-party companies that specialize in the production of spare parts.

If you dig a little deeper, you will find out that the original belts, rollers or other parts are made by the same third-party manufacturers, only the packaging and markings are different. These are the so-called OEM suppliers - reliable companies with a good reputation that have entered into an agreement with the car manufacturer.

Among the manufacturers of timing belts and rollers, the following companies have proven themselves well: Gates, Contitech, Dayco, Bosch, INA. There are other, cheaper options that expand the price/quality range. But, as we have already found out, the timing belt is not a part you should skimp on.

Consequences of untimely shift

If the timing belt is not changed in a timely manner, it may break. While driving on the highway, this can lead to an accident. If the accident was avoided, you will have to spend money on a tow truck to deliver the car to the repair site. If the belt breaks, the movement of the camshafts and valves will stop, but the movement of the crankshaft will continue, which may result in damage to the valves as a result of the impact of the pistons. Repair may be limited to replacing the timing belt and rollers. But only if an 8 valve engine or 16v 1600 cc is installed. cm, that is, safe from the point of view of bending the valves (21114, 21124 or simply 124).

If the valves are bent, a major overhaul of the engine will be required, which will cost from 20–30 thousand rubles. In some cases, it will be cheaper to purchase a new engine, although this will lead to other problems - registration.

Didn't find the information you are looking for? on our forum.

Procedure for replacing the timing belt

Raise the hood and disconnect the battery terminal “to minus” (the key in the ignition switch must be “off”) so that the brake lights do not light up in vain and “just in case”. Important! Before removing the terminal from the battery and turning off the power to the car, you must study the “Operation and Repair Manual” of the car

In some cars, it is impossible to disconnect the terminal from the battery (!), since adaptations in the electronic control system will be reset. In this case, you need to work with a car that is not de-energized more carefully. To ensure free access to the necessary mechanisms, you will need to remove the wheel, engine cover, protection, and generator belt. Depending on the make of the car and engine modification, work may require removing the power steering fluid reservoir or adsorber, or the air conditioner bracket, intercooler with terminals, air intake (or something else). Using a hexagon, unscrew the screws securing the belt and gear guard. If there is a crankshaft position sensor (CPS), disconnect the connector with wires from it. Unscrew the bolt and remove the timing belt tensioning roller

Also remove the support (guide) roller, if there is one. Remove the old timing belt. Check the position of the mark on one camshaft gear (on an 8-valve engine) or on two gears on two camshafts (on a 16-valve engine) in relation to the marks on the timing case. If the marks do not coincide, to set them in the desired position (against each other), you need to turn the camshaft with a wrench using the bolt securing the gear to the camshaft. To check the alignment of the mark on the crankshaft gear with the mark on the oil pump housing, unscrew and pull out the crankshaft toothed pulley with a special washer. If the pulley bolt does not unscrew, then you can rest the handle of the L-shaped key against the rod, put on the negative terminal of the battery (if it has been removed) and turn it with the starter. After unscrewing the bolt, remove the terminal back. You can also use a pneumatic impact wrench or have an assistant engage the highest gear and apply the brake while you unscrew the bolt. If the gear mark is set incorrectly, then screw the fastening bolt into place and turn the gear by this bolt with a wrench until the mark on the crankshaft gear is correctly aligned with the mark on the oil pump housing. Install the support (guide) roller, if equipped. First place the new timing belt on the crankshaft gear, on the support roller, then on the camshaft gear (or two gears, if there are two camshafts) and then on the pump gear. In this case, you need to control the position of the marks on one or two camshaft gears. If the marks are lost, they must be set correctly immediately. Install the tension roller and tighten it loosely, without tightly tightening the bolt until it stops. Check the evenness of the belt pad. Then tighten the belt using a special key for the tension roller, turning the roller counterclockwise (or in the direction of the arrows on the roller body). Next, holding the roller with a special key in the desired position, fix the position of the roller by tightening the fastening bolt until it stops, with a little force. You can check the belt tension with one hand by turning the belt lengthwise with your fingers. A well-tensioned belt should not turn more than 90°. At the final stage, reinstall and secure all dismantled elements in the reverse order.

After completing all the work, you need to start the engine and check the work by ear.

How to replace the timing belt on a VAZ 2108-VAZ 21099?

Removal: 1) First unscrew both side cover bolts.

2) Next, unscrew the last remaining central bolt that secures the cover.

3) Now, holding the cover with your hand, remove it from its seat.

4) Next, remove the generator belt from all the rollers. (For information on how to remove the alternator belt, see “this article”) 5) Then remove the front right wheel from the car. (see Removing the wheel)

Note! If your car also has fender liners installed, then they will also have to be removed!

6) Then, using the central bolt that secures the pulley, turn the crankshaft strictly clockwise.

Note! After turning the crankshaft, pay attention to both marks that are indicated in the photo, they should coincide with each other, the first mark indicated by a screwdriver is the camshaft mark, and here is the second mark, this cover mark!

7) Now pull the plug with your hand to remove it from the clutch housing.

Next, look at the mark that is present on the flywheel; it should coincide with the slot on the clutch housing cover.

Note! In the photo, for easier viewing, the cooling hose has been removed!

9) Then remove the crankshaft position sensor. (see “Removing the crankshaft position sensor”)

10) Next, with the help of an assistant, secure the crankshaft from turning, and then remove the generator pulley itself, to do this: 1. Ask the assistant to insert a screwdriver through the through hole in the clutch housing, and then let him fix this screwdriver.

Note! The screwdriver must be inserted between the teeth of the flywheel!

2. Next, at this time, unscrew the central bolt that secures the generator pulley. 3. And then, holding the generator pulley with your hand, remove it from the engine, and at this time let an assistant remove the screwdriver.

11) Next, using a wrench, loosen the central nut of the tension roller.

Note! After loosening the nut, rotate the roller to the position where the belt will be loosened the most!

12) Then remove the belt from all rollers, thereby removing it from the engine.

13) Next, after removing the belt, if you need to remove the tension roller to replace it, then completely unscrew the nut securing it, and then remove it.

Note! Immediately behind the roller there is a spacer washer, which must also be replaced if deformed!

Installation: 1) Install the new belt in the reverse order of removal.

Note! When installing a new belt, start with the lowest pulley, the “crankshaft pulley”!

2) Next, insert a pair of screws into both holes that are located in the tension roller housing, and then between these two screws, insert a screwdriver as shown in the figure, and then turn the roller strictly counterclockwise, thereby tensioning the belt to the desired state.

Note! Turn the roller strictly counterclockwise!

3) Next, install the generator pulley in its place, and then tighten the bolt that holds it until it stops.

Note! Before you begin installing the generator pulley, check that the crankshaft mark “indicated by a screwdriver” matches the mark on the cover “indicated by an arrow”!

4) Now turn the crankshaft bolt a few turns strictly clockwise.

5) After all the operations performed, check the alignment of the marks on the flywheel, as well as the marks on the camshaft; all these marks must coincide with the marks on the body.

Note! If at least some of the marks do not match, then reinstall the belt!

Causes of belt breakage

One of the common problems with the model is the failure of the timing belt. The reasons for this may be different:

Simple wear and tear caused by a long period of use of the vehicle;
Regular increased loads under which the engine has to work intensively;
Mechanical damage as a result of improper operation or received during the repair of other components;
Manufacturing defect.

Regardless of the causes of the problem, it must be eliminated.

Over time, it stretches so much that the gear teeth jump by 1-2 links. This disrupts the valve timing and causes interruptions in engine operation. But this is the best-case scenario for such a situation. The worst is when the strap breaks and the valves bend.

Timing belt VAZ 2114 8 valves: functions, location and signs of malfunctions

So, the belt is under a protective cover on the crankshaft pulley side. The belt itself is a ring structure, made of reinforced rubber, and has an internal tooth structure so that the teeth on the crankshaft pulley and timing gear can engage with the belt.

Engaging with the crankshaft and camshaft with its toothed side, the belt ensures synchronous rotation of the shafts, and with its smooth side it drives the water pump shaft of the internal combustion engine cooling system. The required timing belt tension is maintained by a tension roller.

If the timing belt is torn or has become dislodged/flipped off or jumped, the vehicle’s internal combustion engine stalls or operates extremely unstably. Possible signs of timing belt failure:

the engine stalls;
the car does not start;
“phase sensor error” lights up - failure of the timing belt (displacement or slippage of the belt).

It is important to understand that, subject to constant wear and various loads (including temperature), the timing belt 2114 may fail ahead of schedule

For this reason, it is important to pay attention to signs of problems with this element. For example, the timing belt on a VAZ 2114 “chews”. There may be several reasons why the timing belt is chewing.

This is either mechanical damage to the teeth of the crankshaft or pulley, sagging belt, displacement of the axes of the pump roller and tension roller, etc.

There may be several reasons why the timing belt is chewing. This is either mechanical damage to the teeth of the crankshaft or pulley, sagging belt, displacement of the axes of the pump roller and tension roller, etc.

For example, the timing belt on a VAZ 2114 “chews”. There may be several reasons why the timing belt is chewing. This is either mechanical damage to the teeth of the crankshaft or pulley, sagging of the belt, displacement of the axes of the pump roller and tension roller, etc.

Another such reason may be the belt slipping or moving to the side relative to its working position. This can lead to damage to the timing belt structure (contact with metal parts, abrasion on the edge of the tension roller) and, accordingly, disruption of the car engine.

The main reasons for belt displacement can be:

manufacturing defect of the product (different rigidity across the width);
failure of the water pump bearings (play, lack of lubrication, poor cleaning of the seat);
deformation of the tension roller mounting pin (improper tightening or errors when replacing elements).

Replacing the timing chain

It remains to note such a point as replacing the timing chain. We can say right away: it is absolutely no different from the belt replacement algorithm. The main difficulty is the preparatory operations, with the help of which you can get to the desired part. On average, this takes several hours, while direct replacement takes a few minutes.

So, it is quite possible to cope with replacing the timing belt yourself. Of course, this procedure is not quick, but it is quite accessible even to beginners.

The main thing is to stock up on the appropriate tools, as well as a user manual for the car. Some things are unique to a particular model.

For example, how to properly tension the timing belt is written there. Remember that if you do something once, it will be much easier the next time.

How to change it yourself

Before changing the timing belt yourself, you need to study the diagram of the gas distribution mechanism, stock up on the necessary tools, and also imagine the order of work in the form of a sequence of actions.

There are differences between modifications of the VAZ 2112, but the basic algorithm is approximately the same for all modifications. This algorithm can also be used on VAZ cars of other modifications, for example, 2110. It is necessary to have a good manual that explains the progress of work step by step. And if you have at least a little experience in car maintenance and minor repairs, we can calmly carry out timing belt maintenance ourselves and change the necessary parts.

Tools and materials

The set of basic tools is small:

socket heads for 10, 15 and 17;
spanner or open-end wrench 17;
large flat screwdriver;
key for the tensioner pulley (if power steering is installed on the car).

The materials required are a new timing belt.

Step-by-step instructions for replacing the timing belt

Unscrew the two bolts from the side of the timing belt protective cover. Key for 10.

And one in front, remove the cover. Key for 10.

Remove the generator drive belt. Loosen the locking nut, set the wrench to 13 and unscrew the tension bolt, set the wrench to 10. Move the generator towards the cylinder block.

Alternator belt tensioning mechanism.

If you cannot move the generator, you need to loosen the fastening nut from below. The key is 17.

Generator mounting.

Set the top dead center

Use the crankshaft pulley bolt to turn it clockwise.

We ensure that the mark on the camshaft toothed pulley (hereinafter referred to as simply an asterisk) matches the mark on the metal casing.

Camshaft mark.

The mark on the crankshaft sprocket should also coincide with the low tide on the oil pump.

Crankshaft mark.

We unscrew the crankshaft pulley bolt, having previously locked the crankshaft. We block the rear wheels, engage fifth gear and insert a screwdriver into the ventilation hole of the brake disc below the caliper. 17mm head with extension and pipe as a lever.
Unscrew the nut securing the tension roller and remove it along with the old timing belt.

Fastening the tension roller.

Replacing the pump

Unscrew the bolt securing the camshaft sprocket and remove it. The key or head is 17.

Fastening the camshaft sprocket.

Remove the timing belt protective cover. We unscrew the nut and bolt by 10, as well as the three bolts securing the water pump. Head for 10.

Fastening the timing case.

Removing the pump

Lubricate the pump gasket with a thin layer of sealant and install the pump in place. We install the protective casing and tighten all the bolts evenly.

Pump mount.

VAZ 2112 timing belt installation

On VAZ 2110, VAZ2112 cars, engines with a 16-valve cylinder head are installed. Of course, an injector with sixteen valves adds agility to our Lada and this is pleasantly pleasing, although there is a fly in the ointment. The timing belt must not be allowed to break due to wear; this leads to damage to the cylinder head. Namely, due to the fact that the camshafts are stationary and at the moment when the piston approaches top dead center, the valves remain open, resulting in the piston hitting the open valves, this leads to the valves bending and in some cases destroying the seats and guide bushings. Repairs are of course expensive.

This can be avoided by installing pistons in the engine that have recesses for the valves, such as in the photo. It is not advisable to do this on purpose, since engines have a significant service life, and there is no point in disassembling a working engine. Therefore, it is easier and cheaper to simply change the timing belt in a timely manner, especially since it does not require extensive experience in locksmith work and deep knowledge in the field of car repair, but just attentiveness and knowledge of some of the nuances when installing the belt itself.

Where to start replacing the belt. First, you need to remove the alternator belt drive pulley. It’s convenient to do this if you remove the right front wheel and the protective cover, if you still have one. Unscrew the pulley mounting bolt. Then remove the timing belt protection covers and the entire mechanism before your eyes. Unscrew the nuts securing the tension rollers; if the belt gets stuck, it is also advisable to change the rollers, and remove them, then remove the belt itself.

We install the crankshaft so that the piston of the first cylinder is at top dead center, this position should correspond to the mark on the crankshaft timing pulley, it should be aligned with the rib on the oil pump housing

In addition, there is a mark on the flywheel; it should be located in the center of the ignition timing scale; it is clearly visible through the inspection window located on the flywheel housing.

Having installed the crankshaft, we install the camshafts so that the valves have a position corresponding to the moment of compression of the fuel in the cylinders when the piston is at top dead center.

For this purpose, there is a mark on the camshaft timing pulley.

must align with the slot on the body of the protective casing

this is typical for both pulleys

Having installed the tension rollers, install the belt as shown in the photo

the hole for fastening the left tension roller is offset relative to the center, due to this the timing belt is tensioned using holes into which a special key is inserted (a screwdriver is also suitable)

After tensioning the belt, turn the crankshaft two turns and align the marks again, this is necessary for self-checking; if this time the marks coincide clearly, then after installing the generator drive pulley and protective covers, the engine can be started.

Replacing the timing belt of the Lada Priora engine

According to the maintenance regulations, the condition of the timing belt should be checked after 105 thousand km, and the belt replaced after 200 thousand km.

It is necessary to take into account that failure of the timing belt (breakage or shearing of teeth) can lead to valves sticking into the pistons due to mismatch of the rotation angles of the crankshaft and camshafts and, as a result, to expensive engine repairs. Therefore, we recommend checking the condition of the belt more often - every 45 thousand km.

The surface of the toothed part of the belt should not have folds, cracks, undercuts of teeth and separation of fabric from rubber. The reverse side of the belt should not have wear, exposing the cord threads, or signs of burning.

There should be no delamination or fraying on the end surfaces of the belt. The belt also needs to be replaced if traces of oil are found on it (before replacing the belt, the cause of its oiling should be eliminated) or when replacing a failed tensioner/support roller of the timing drive and coolant pump.

Use a 5mm hex to unscrew the five screws securing the front upper timing cover...

...and remove it. Remove the right mudguard of the engine compartment (see.

Using the “17” head, turn the crankshaft clockwise by the bolt securing the generator drive pulley... ...and inspect the belt for damage.

To replace the belt...

...using a 5mm hexagon, unscrew the two screws securing the front lower timing cover...

...and remove the cover. Remove the generator drive belt (see.

...until the marks on the camshaft toothed pulleys align with the marks on the rear timing cover. To check the position of the crankshaft...

…we remove the rubber plug in the upper part of the clutch housing (for clarity, the cooling system hose and the wire blocks from the coolant temperature gauge sensor and the ECM coolant temperature sensor are disconnected)…

...and make sure that the mark on the flywheel 1 is located opposite the slot 2 of the upper cover of the clutch housing. In order not to disturb the valve timing when unscrewing the bolt securing the generator drive pulley, an assistant fixes the flywheel by inserting a large slotted screwdriver through the hole in the clutch housing between the flywheel teeth.

Having unscrewed the bolt securing the generator drive pulley...

...remove the pulley...

...and its support washer.

Using a spanner wrench or a 15mm socket, loosen the bolt securing the belt tension roller. At the same time, the tension roller will rotate and the belt tension will weaken.

Remove the belt from the camshaft pulleys of the tension and support rollers. After removing the belt from the coolant pump and crankshaft pulleys, remove the belt from the engine compartment.

After removing the timing belt, the crankshaft and camshafts must not be turned at large angles to avoid the valves sticking into the pistons. When replacing the timing belt, we also change the tensioner and support rollers of the belt. Unscrew the bolt securing the tension roller and remove the roller.

Using a 15mm spanner, unscrew the bolt securing the support roller... ...and remove the roller assembly with the bolt and thrust washer.

The roller thrust washer has cores that prevent the washer from being removed from the bolt. Before installing the new support and tension rollers, apply thread sealant to the threaded part of the bolts that secure them. We do not completely tighten the tension roller bolt.

Before installing the belt, make sure that the alignment marks of the crankshaft and camshafts are aligned.

With the generator drive pulley removed, it is convenient to control the position of the crankshaft...

...by aligning mark 1 on the crankshaft toothed pulley with mark 2 (rib) on the oil pump cover. We put the timing belt on the crankshaft pulley. While tensioning both branches of the belt, we place the front branch behind the support roller, and the rear branch, putting it on the coolant pump pulley, behind the tension roller. Then we put the belt on the camshaft pulleys. To tension the belt...

...insert the tips of the pliers to remove the retaining rings into the grooves of the outer race of the tension roller.

We tighten the belt by turning the tension roller counterclockwise with pliers...

...until cutout 1 of the outer race of the roller aligns with the rectangular protrusion 2 of its inner sleeve... ...and tighten the roller mounting bolt with a wrench.

Having installed the generator drive pulley, turn the crankshaft by the pulley mounting bolt two turns clockwise.

We check the alignment of the installation marks on the crankshaft and camshafts, as well as the alignment of the cutout with the protrusion on the tension roller.

Otherwise, we repeat the operations of installing and tensioning the timing belt.

Replacement Guide

Manufacturers recommend replacing the timing belt on a VAZ 2108 with a carburetor after 60-75 thousand kilometers. Considering that the car is operated in different conditions, it is recommended to do a visual inspection of the components every 15 thousand kilometers.

Replacement should be done if the following defects are found:

unevenness, wear, cracks on the surface;
oil stains;
frayed end sides;
tear, wear, missing teeth;
a stretched belt that can no longer be tightened.

When inspecting the unit, you should pay attention to other elements. New consumables

New consumables

If oil leaks are detected, the seals most likely need to be replaced. If there are scratches, chips, or play on the surface of the pump, it should be replaced. How long the parts will last depends on their quality and operating conditions.

Required Tools

To carry out the replacement procedure on a VAZ 2108, you need to prepare the usual tools:

sets of sockets and spanners;
screwdriver;
a special key for turning the tension roller;
jack;
new consumables;
clean rags.

If you do not have a special key to turn the tension roller, you can use pliers and two nails.

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Stages of work

To make it convenient to work with the car, it should be driven onto a flat surface or a lifting device.

The replacement itself consists of the following steps:

To access the crankshaft pulley, you first need to remove the right wheel from the front.
After unscrewing the three bolts, it is necessary to remove the protective timing cover.
Loosen the generator belt and remove it from all the rollers.
Next you need to set the tags. To do this, you need to turn the crankshaft in a clockwise direction until the marks on the camshaft and the rear cover of the timing mechanism match.
In the upper part of the clutch housing, you need to remove the plug and make sure that the groove on the flywheel and the slot on the clutch housing match.
Next, remove the sensor indicating the crankshaft position.
The crankshaft must be secured. To do this, you need to insert a screwdriver or a metal pin between the teeth of the flywheel.
Next, unscrew the fastening bolt and remove the generator drive pulley.
Using a “17” wrench, you need to loosen the fastening nut on the tension roller. When the strap is as loose as possible, it can be removed.
To replace the tensioner, you need to unscrew the fastening nut and remove it from the pin. When replacing the roller, you should inspect the spacer washer, which also needs to be replaced if necessary.
The new belt is first put on the teeth of the crankshaft pulley, then on the teeth of the pump pulley, then wound behind the roller and pulled over the teeth of the camshaft gear.
Using a special wrench or using nails and pliers, you need to turn the tensioner and tighten the rubber product.
Next, you need to tighten the tension roller nut.
Then you need to return the attachment drive pulley to its place and screw in the fastening bolt all the way. Next, turn the crankshaft clockwise just a couple of turns and again set all the alignment marks on the camshaft and crankshaft.
If the marks do not match, the belt installation should be repeated.
Checking the tension of the timing belt
After installing the strap, you need to check its tension. To do this, you need to turn the belt in the space between the camshaft and crankshaft pulleys 90 degrees. If it turns more than 90 degrees with a little effort, it needs to be tightened more.
Next, install the remaining components in reverse order.

This completes the replacement of the timing belt on the VAZ 2108 carburetor.

Help in choosing a timing belt and rollers

The reliability, efficiency and operating life of the motor depend on the quality of the rollers and belts chosen for replacement.

Research shows that the cost of a belt is from 450 rubles, and rollers will cost you at least 600 rubles.

When buying spare parts, be guided by the opinions of VAZ 2110 car owners. There are many forums. Also consult with specialists at the service station. They will be able to give professional advice, or even order quality components for you.

Surveys among owners of AvtoVAZ’s creation, namely the VAZ 2110, showed that the most popular belts are products manufactured by the following companies:

Gates;
Bosch;
Kraft;
Power Grip;
Dayco;
Contitech.

As for videos, it’s better to pay attention to the following brands:

Gates;
Power Grip;
VPZ;
BRT;
Dayco;
Marel.

Of course, the choice is purely individual and depends on the financial capabilities and available assortment of a particular store. But if the necessary elements are not available in your city, you can always order them online. Nowadays this is not a problem.

Selecting a new belt

It is necessary to choose the correct size belt. The length of the product should be 742 mm. An important question for car enthusiasts is which manufacturer is better to choose.

Today, high-quality products are produced by both foreign and domestic suppliers:

Volzhsky Automobile Plant. The factory Lada belt 21126–1006040 is considered extremely durable and reliable and quite competitive in comparison with imported analogues. And for the price it wins.
Domestic belts BRT "Balakovo". According to experts, they are not inferior to foreign analogues. According to many VAZ owners, they are superior to them.
Belts from Bosch. The brand is synonymous with product quality. A real Bosch belt performs its intended life without any problems. But brand counterfeits are quite common. The quality of counterfeit products cannot be compared with either Russian or foreign products.
Gates 5631 xs. These belts are popular due to their durability. There is virtually no risk of breakage during the service life.
Lynx 137 fl22. The Japanese belt is relatively inexpensive compared to other imported models. But it is also of lower quality and has a smaller resource.

Purpose of the crankshaft pulley

The crankshaft pulley on the VAZ 2110 serves the following purposes:

Reducing the amplitude of crankshaft vibrations during resonance. In particular, for this purpose, some craftsmen install a lightweight version of the crankshaft.
Reducing noise from the operation of the power unit.
Rotation of mechanisms that are directly involved in the operation of the motor. This happens with the help of gears and a belt.
The damper, in turn, addresses pulses corresponding to the number of crankshaft revolutions to the ECU.

Crankshaft damper pulley VAZ 2110

The VAZ 2110 car has a crankshaft damper pulley. The pulley itself transmits torque to additional units. The part is a flat ribbed wheel with a special hole for installing a belt. To improve performance, automakers equipped the pulley with a damper. Damper - a rubber layer to dampen vibrations that occur in cars. However, with this innovation, the life of the pulley has been reduced because the damper loses elasticity due to excessive loads. Sometimes the pulley breaks completely, which is why the VAZ 2110 stops moving.

Possible faults

The crankshaft pulley is removed in the following cases:

In the case of a VAZ 2110 hub turning. In most cases, this occurs due to careless repairs. The VAZ 2110 car is equipped with a special fixing sleeve, which is pressed into the gear. If installed incorrectly, it may fall out, which will cause the hub to rotate.
In case of lubricant leakage from under the crankshaft oil seal. It needs to be removed and replaced with a new one.
New oil seal
In case of strong resonance.
Incorrect pulley type installations.
Incorrect damper installation.
A split in the place where the damper is installed. In this case, replacement is necessary, and better yet, together with the crankshaft gear.
When removing the crankshaft - for repair work, changing bearings, etc.

Preparatory work

Before you start work, familiarize yourself with the timing system diagram and the location of the marks on the camshaft and crankshaft.

This is what a detailed timing belt diagram looks like.

Diagram: 1. Crankshaft pulley. 2. Timing belt. 3. Water pump pulley. 4. Tension roller. 5. Intake camshaft pulley. 6. Upper timing belt protective cover. 7. Exhaust camshaft pulley. 8. Phase sensor synchronization dial. 9. Support roller.

A – TDC mark on the crankshaft pulley. B – Mark on the oil pump cover. C – Installation mark on the protective cover. D – Mark on the exhaust camshaft pulley. E - Mark on the intake camshaft pulley. F - Installation mark on the protective cover.

Tools for work

To carry out all the work you will need:

New timing belt for the 16-valve VAZ-2112 engine.
Socket head for “10” and “17”.
The key is "17".
Screwdriver.
Tensioner pulley key.

Step-by-step replacement procedure

First of all, after opening the hood, remove the negative terminal from the battery.
Next, remove the timing belt protective cover by unscrewing 6 bolts using a “10” socket.
Remove the chip from the crankshaft sensor. Read more about all sensors on the VAZ-2112.
We unscrew one bolt that secures it and remove the sensor.
You will then see that the pulley is missing a number of teeth, this is to allow the sensor to detect TDC and also block it in order to unscrew the pulley.
Next, align this hole for the sensor with the pulley, and insert an object through the hole (a hex key with a “12” size works well - approx.).
When the pulley is blocked, we “tear off” this generator nut.
Then loosen the bolt on the tension pulley and remove the old timing belt. If necessary, we also shoot videos. Usually, along with replacing the belt, both the pump (water pump) and the rollers are replaced. We have already written in detail about checking the pump for play and about choosing a pump for a 16-valve engine.
You can install a new belt by removing the tension roller, or by turning the exhaust camshaft pulley (pulley on the right side - approx.) with a key to “17”.
We fix the crankshaft pulley bolt back and align the marks with the housing on the oil pump.
Next, make sure that the pulley marks on the camshafts align and that the drive gear does not go astray.
The next step is to tension the belt using a tension roller using a special wrench. However, if you don’t have one, you can use two nails and a screwdriver inserted between them.
We tighten the belt until you feel its elastic state between the two camshaft pulleys. Don't forget to tighten the tension roller nut.
Afterwards, we turn the crankshaft two full turns, if all the marks match and remain in place, then the work on replacing the timing belt can be considered complete.
We tighten all the nuts until they stop, put the crankshaft sensor in place, connect the power supply to it and put the protective cover in place.

If all work is carried out in such a strict order, the entire replacement can be done with your own hands within an hour.

Replacement process detailed instructions

Replacing the air filter on a VAZ 2110 with your own hands

We will look at options with 8- and 16-valve engines, which are present in the VAZ 2112 and 2110 models. Regardless of the number of valves, the same set of tools will be required for replacement. The list includes standard tools that can be found in almost every driver's garage.

Timing belt for VAZ 2110 16 valves

In addition to the timing belt itself and the roller for the VAZ 2110 or 2112, you will need:

a special key that regulates the degree of tension of the roller;
spanner set to “17”;
key to “15”;
key to “10”;
installation, as an alternative - a powerful screwdriver.

Replacement on an 8-valve engine

Replacing the VAZ 2110 8 valve timing belt is as follows:

First of all, we de-energize the battery - for this you need to get the negative wire;
We unscrew the bolts that hold the timing belt protective casing, and then remove the casing;
On the passenger side, it is necessary to remove the engine compartment mudguard along with the protective element and the right wheel;
Our task is to ensure that the marks on the cover and, accordingly, on the pulley match, as indicated in all the diagrams. To do this, you need to twist the part clockwise;
We go to the gearbox and remove the plug from it;
We need to check the alignment of the marks in this hole;
We block the flywheel - for this you can use a mounting tool or a powerful screwdriver;
Now you can remove the timing generator pulley;
We got to the nut that holds the timing belt pulley - it needs to be loosened, but not unscrewed;
Now we have reached the required element of the VAZ 2110 or 2112 timing belt. Now it can be removed. All parts that it covered must be cleaned with detergent. After removing dirt, the area should be wiped with a clean rag;
Next, a new timing belt and tensioner roller are installed - follow the direction indicated on the arrow. Sometimes it happens that the manufacturer does not indicate the arrows, in which case, you need to place the element so that the inscription is read from left to right;
To tension, you need to turn the roller counterclockwise.
The next step is to test the timing belt and its tension. You need to check the element with a cold engine, and the temperature in the garage or box should be within +15-+30C. We start the engine and inspect the timing belt.

If there are no unnecessary sounds or vibrations, then all the elements can be installed back - these are the wheel, casing and mudguard.

Replacement on a 16-valve engine

Despite the fact that there are more valves, replacing the timing belt is no more difficult than on the version with 8 valves. So, replacing the VAZ 2110 16 valve timing belt is performed as follows:

As in the case of the VAZ 2110 or 2112, where there are 8 valves, we need to dismantle the belt protection. It is held in place by 6 bolts.
Next, you need to remove the chip from the crankshaft sensor - unscrew the mount and take out the sensor itself. For clarity, you can study the photo.
If you dismantle the gas distribution mechanism yourself, then you probably noticed the absence of one tooth. This is done so that the sensor can independently find the dead center. This feature can also be used to lock the crankshaft.
Blocking can be done when a tube of a suitable size is placed in the hole under the sensor. Now the pulley is blocked, as a result, it can be safely dismantled.
Next, the work scheme is practically no different from removing the 8-valve timing mechanism with your own hands - loosen the roller fastening and remove the faulty or worn belt.
There are two ways to install a new element: remove the tension roller and then install the belt along with it, or do it by turning the camshaft.
When the new element is installed, you can return everything to its original position. You should start by fastening the pulley - tighten the bolt and align the gear - the marks on the oil pump will help with this. If they are missing, then you can make a mark yourself.
The parts must be combined carefully, since the timing gear should not get knocked out.
Using a special wrench, we must tighten the belt. Not everyone has such a wrench, but as an alternative you can always take a powerful screwdriver and two nails. It is also worth remembering the nut, which must be tightened tightly.
We check the tension; the rubber should move away from the gears, but there should be no folds.
All that remains is to turn the crankshaft 2 times and make sure that the marks remain in the same place - the work is completed

Check the gas distribution mechanism every 10 thousand kilometers, and then you will not have to spend money on expensive repairs.

Honda GC 135 engine analysis

We directly disconnect the engine from the unit (remove the pulleys, starter flywheel, frame, etc.), we get the following:

We unscrew the cover bolts, pry the cover evenly around the perimeter (it sits on the sealant) and remove it, we get the following:

We remove the magneto and flywheel (lock the shaft, unscrew the nut and knock it off the cone by tapping). Don't forget about the keys, don't lose them.

Next is the crankcase. The plane of connection between the crankcase and the head is at an angle. We unscrew it around the perimeter of the crankcase (there are many of them), pry it along the seam with a strong screwdriver (it sits on the sealant). The direction of removing the crankcase is along the crankshaft, and not along the plane; the guide tubes are visible there in the photo.

We gained access to the crankshaft, later we will unscrew the two bolts with the numbers 12.

In order to avoid problems later when assembling and installing the timing belt in the correct position, we will make notes on the pulley and crankshaft gear relative to the marks on the belt. We remove the belt, unscrew the bolts on the crankshaft, remove the piston (here you will have to play around, since it comes out at a certain position. Remove the crankshaft. We received the following picture from the cylinder side

And then we are engaged in examining the problems. In my case, it was a ring on the piston (there were no scuffs on the cylinder). I bought the rings in a Honda brand store (on Google) for 1000 rubles, since the search for a cheap equivalent did not yield anything. Well, since the oil spilled through the air filter, then I carefully cut out the paper of the old filter, bought a regular filter for Lada cars (I don’t remember exactly which model for 100 rubles, the width and thickness were the same), removed the parallon, cut it to the required length and secured it with sealant. By the way, a native filter for GC135 costs approximately 500-600 rubles.

We received a new filter. When assembling, we clean anything, remove old silicone, degrease, apply sealants where necessary, check for unnecessary parts. After assembly, the engine does not start on the first try, so do not be alarmed

Features of labeling

Before installing another timing belt, it is better to set the crankshaft and camshaft to the specified marks from the very beginning. We set the gears to 0 position. Points A, B, C, D, E, F must match as shown in the picture. After this, you need to set the marks on the camshafts and the belt casing in the same position.

To check the location of the crankshaft, remove the plug from the box, which is installed under the thermostat, and look for the flywheel. If the marks on the camshaft and the casing match, then there should be a match in the cut on the flywheel and on the metal casing.

All alignments must be clear, the marks must match for proper operation of the belt. After the mark is installed on the flywheel, it must be fixed in this position so as not to break off the thread. And then, as mentioned, you can begin to tension and adjust the timing belt.

Belt operating principle and location

This element is a rubber-metal belt or metal chain. The intake of a mixture of fuel and air, as well as the release of exhaust gases - this is the work of the timing belt. A broken element can lead to costly repair work, which may even require replacing the pistons. In other words, the timing belt is the link between the crankshaft and the camshaft.

Replacing the timing belt VAZ 2110

When the timing belt of a VAZ 2110 or 2112 is to be replaced, the driver is primarily interested in the location of this element. When you open the hood, you will immediately find a belt with a toothed surface. Its main difference from other similar elements is that the belt covers several pulleys.

Manufacturer's recommendations

Your primary task as a car owner is to periodically visually inspect the unit.
In addition to replacing the element, it is necessary to simultaneously replace the tension rollers.
VAZ 2110 comes with 8 and 16 valves. The replacement process also depends on this. So, in an 8-valve valve, one tension roller is installed, and in a 16-valve valve, a support and a tension roller are installed.

Replacing the timing belt of a dozen is not difficult. It is not necessary to contact specialists. It is quite possible to do it on your own.

Set of tools

To complete the job of replacing the timing belt you will need:

A set of spanners and open-end wrenches;
Mount;
Screwdriver Set;
A special key with which to tighten the roller or simple pliers with curved rings;
Car jack;
Rags, protective gloves.

Many people ignore the advice on using gloves. Especially in the summer when it's hot. But they are needed to protect you from injury.

There is no need for an inspection hole. You will need to remove the right wheel to remove the timing belt if your Ten is equipped with power steering. So you can't do without a jack.

Lada 2112 2007, 89 l. With. - with your own hands

Lada 2112, 2007

Comments 48

I don’t know what they write about here regarding belt tension on 2112, on PRIOR everything is tightened little by little through the tension roller. The right branch of the belt through the guide roller should already be laid: - through two camshaft pulleys, a crankshaft toothed pulley, through a pump and have sufficient tension. In this case, the marks on the camshaft pulleys and the crankshaft toothed pulley must be fixed using the corresponding counter marks

In this position, holding the belt with your hand on the left side of the branch, on the side of the tension roller, so that it does not weaken and does not jump over the teeth, no matter where and in what place (and this is possible even for one tooth), we place or slip the tension roller under the belt , insert its bolt and tighten everything with such a turn of the roller by hand that the belt does not loosen and does not jump over the teeth

Next, spin the engine several times, or maybe it’s better, by the wheel with 4-5 gear engaged, and make sure that all the marks on all the pulleys match perfectly. How to recognize the mark on the ring gear of the generator drive pulley on the crankshaft, I have already written below and given a drawing. With the wheel removed and the stand hanging with the steering wheel turned, this ring and the DPKV are clearly visible, or almost well, through the mirror.

Then, after cranking the engine several times by hand, carefully, slowly - and what the hell is not joking, the marks didn’t match when parked and the valves were bent with the starter, yikes, then you begin to tighten the roller to working condition. At the moment when, when cranking the engine, the right branch self-tensions when viewed from the side of the pulleys - and the left one weakens, this is where you need to tighten the roller - like how everyone around writes and rips off each other. On a Priora, the tension of the roller can be general or weak, the belt will jump, or the roller may be pressed against the belt so that it and other damn spare parts will feel sick

At the moment when, when cranking the engine, the right branch self-tensions when viewed from the side of the pulleys - and the left one weakens, this is where you need to tighten the roller - like how everyone around writes and rips off each other. On a Priora, the tension of the roller can be general or weak, the belt will jump, or the roller may be pressed against the belt so that it and other damn spare parts will become sick.

Don't be afraid to start the engine to see how your video lives when the engine is running. Nothing will happen to either the belt or the roller when adjusting in a tightened state. The main thing is that the belt does not dangle too much, otherwise it will either fly off or fly like plywood over the toothed pulleys and fucking bend the valves. If the tension roller is dead, overtightened, the belt may hum a little from the overtightening, which in turn will affect on a PUMP, therefore, it will not last long due to a strongly tightened belt (of course it will not immediately fall apart) - then we begin manipulations to tension the roller. The ROLLER on the Priora should be alive when the engine is running. It should vibrate inconspicuously on the tension spring and this is clearly noticeable, and when you press the gas sharply it jumps, pushing up well with the belt and this can be seen even by a blind mole.

What is written in the Talmuds about how to pull a roller does not always coincide with reality. Therefore, it may be that when you set it up as written in the bible for dummies, the roller will simply rest in peace and will not work properly. Therefore, everything is relative to different manufacturers and defects.

In general, honestly, it’s better to under-tighten the roller a little than to over-tighten it. The roller, the pump and the belt will live. The main thing is to watch and listen for extraneous sounds in the timing belt area.

More than once I had cases where the belt was about to fly off, dangled and shouted, pull me up, even rubbed the protective cover. The casing probably saved the day because the belt did not fly off and the piston did not stick into the valves.

But for those who have plugless pistons, they are destined to drive on loose belts. Well, just think, it fell off, hey, hey, but everything lasts a long time and doesn’t break. By the way, the tenth cans have 2110 and some others may have rollers with flanges, they don’t have to worry too much about it, these rollers won’t let the belt fly off just like that from weakness. — It’s okay to slip over the teeth of the pulleys, well, just think, the traction has dropped or it’s completely stalled, corrected it, tightened it and again the gas is up to the limit. The main valve head and pistons cannot be killed. They already write on the Internet that AvtoVAZ began producing engines with 98 hp. and 106 hp with plugless pistons - Freebie please! But the 1.8 liter engines are 122 hp. Not yet, just look for and install such pistons yourself.

So, change the pumps themselves and the safety belts. brr timing belt and don’t be afraid of anything. The main thing is logical thinking and the right approach to what you want to do.

REPLACING THE VAZ 2110 TIMING BELT (16 VALVES)

Not every car enthusiast knows how to replace the timing belt on their own. For 16 valves this procedure is carried out slightly differently than for 8 valves.

First of all, you need to remove the protection casing.

Remove the “chip” from the crankshaft sensor and unscrew the bolt. After this, remove the sensor itself.

The pulley is missing a tooth that allows the crankshaft sensor to find top dead center. In addition, the missing tooth is necessary to lock the crankshaft and tighten the pulley mounting bolt.

The pulley must be aligned with the hole for the crankshaft sensor. A tube of suitable size or some other suitable object must be inserted into this hole. We block the pulley, unscrew it and remove it.

We loosen the tension by unscrewing the tensioner nut and remove it.

We insert a new belt. You can do this in two ways, depending on what is convenient for you. This is done by turning the right camshaft with a wrench or by removing the tensioner roller.

We fasten the bolt that serves to secure the pulley, then align the marks of the belt drive gear. If there is no mark on the oil pump housing, you can use the flywheel marks as a guide. Afterwards, you can make a mark yourself to make it more convenient.

We align the marks on the camshaft pulleys, paying attention to the fact that the drive gear marks must certainly match. We use a tensioner roller and a special key to tension the part.

If you don't have such a key, you can use two nails and a screwdriver or pry bar that needs to be inserted between them. You can also use forks by first removing the two front teeth and shortening the two outer ones to half by bending them. Finally, be sure to tighten the tensioner nut.

We use a tensioner roller and a special key to tension the part. If you don't have such a key, you can use two nails and a screwdriver or pry bar that needs to be inserted between them. You can also use forks by first removing the two front teeth and shortening the two outer ones to half by bending them. Finally, be sure to tighten the tensioner nut.

Check the tension by pressing your finger up and down.

We turn the crankshaft exactly two turns, and then check each mark. If they all match, the pulley can be screwed on. Otherwise, repeat steps 6 – 9.
After everything is done, we return everything to its place and start the engine.

Now the replacement can be considered completed. As we now see, this procedure takes a little longer, but it is not much more complicated.

When is replacement required?

The belt has a resource - a set service life. If this period has expired, the spare part must be replaced even if it looks normal. After all, a break can happen at any moment.

When asked how many kilometers it is necessary to replace the belt so that the belt does not break, experienced car enthusiasts give different answers. Some believe that after 50–60 thousand kilometers. Others clarify: this replacement period is relevant for an 8v (eight-valve) engine. If a 16v (sixteen-valve) engine is installed, then replacement must be done after 30–45 thousand kilometers.

In the video, a practitioner shows what timing belts look like after a long run and whether advertising should be trusted. Filmed by ExpertR channel.

Checking the condition of the belt

First, remember that you need to check the condition of the belt once a year, or every 10-15 thousand kilometers. Replacement is carried out after every 50 thousand kilometers.

To examine the status of an item, follow these steps:

Remove the plug from the protective front timing cover;
Remove the alternator belt so that it does not interfere with you;
Unscrew the six bolts, which will allow you to remove the cover;
Access the belt and examine it.

If you notice any of the following, be sure to replace the belt:

The element has bulges or cuts;
Broken threads and traces of delamination appeared on it;
There are abrasions, cracks or folds;
Oil is leaking.