Front strut brace: what is it for, what does it do, how to do it yourself

Among the total number of motorists, there are always people who strive in various ways to improve their “iron horses”, increase their performance, reliability and durability. The vast majority of these drivers install metal struts (aka braces) on their cars for the front and rear struts. But such an improvement causes a lot of controversy, and the number of supporters and opponents of such tuning is approximately the same. Therefore, it is worth taking a closer look at the question of why stretch marks are needed and how to make them with your own hands.

2 How necessary is a crossbar - video opinion
3 Pros and cons of using front strut braces
4 Types of spacers
5 Preparing for self-production
6 Making a spacer with your own hands
6.1 How to make a spreader with your own hands - photo
6.2 Video about making a front brace

The role of spacers in strengthening the car body: why is it needed?

The stretcher is an additional rigidity installed between the upper supports of the struts (most often the front ones). It is made of a metal pipe, the ends of which are attached to two support flanges. The latter have holes that match in diameter and placement with the studs on the rack cups. The flanges are put on them, adjacent to the planes of the glasses, and screwed with standard nuts.

This is what stretching on a car looks like

Reference. Since the distance between the supports and mounting bolts differs for different car models, the spacers are made for a specific car brand.

The body of a modern car is made of thin sheet metal, interconnected in such a way as to ensure maximum structural rigidity. However, when rolling, turning and driving on bad roads, the body experiences high loads, causing it to deform elastically. This behavior has a detrimental effect on handling and reduces the life of the machine for the following reasons:

the lower the rigidity of the body, the more it “twists” when turning or when hitting a bump;
over time, the metal “gets tired”, causing cracks to form in the load-bearing elements;
from constant impacts from the wheels, the side members bend inward, which is why, at a certain moment, adjusting the camber of the front wheels becomes impossible.

Extracting the side members on the stand, after which you need to install the cross member

Note. As a rule, the effect of “lost wheels” is observed on cars that have served for more than 10 years in difficult conditions. Their side members are so concave that there is not enough adjustment to align the wheels, so the tires wear out on the inside. The problem is solved by drawing out the side members on the stand and installing elements that strengthen the structure.

The spacer located between the pillar supports provides additional rigidity to the body and reduces the amplitude of deformation. That is, its installation gives a real positive result, no matter what opponents of such tuning say. The stretcher can be installed on any car, but there are certain cases when it brings particular benefits:

with constant use of a passenger car in rural areas on bad roads;
on machines that have undergone the procedure of stretching the side members due to metal fatigue and excessive deflection;
on amateur cars taking part in sports racing.

Cars with such a frame do not require bracing

Reference. In professional motorsport, spacers are not used as a separate element. In specially prepared vehicles, a supporting frame is installed into which body elements are attached.

There is a type of car that does not require any additional reinforcement. These are framed all-wheel drive SUVs such as Jeep Wrangler or Land Rover Defender. In small cars and minibuses, where the pillars go under the dashboard, installing the jumper is technically difficult. At the same time, on some models, amplifiers are installed at the factory and are standard design elements.

This car has spacers from the factory.

Why strengthen the body with struts?

Many factors influence the behavior of the body under deforming forces. One of the main ones is economic. You can build a sports car, the capabilities of which are close to racing cars, but its price will not fall within reasonable limits, the result of achieving rigidity is always a compromise.

The resulting body will have average properties and will behave averagely on the road. Not all owners will be happy with this situation, but buying a higher-class car is also not available to everyone.

On the subject: Causes of knocking in the front and rear suspension

There remains the path of body tuning. In particular, the use of a spacer or stretcher, which is the same thing, between the upper glasses of the racks of the most common McPherson type spark plug suspension in the world.

The fastening of the racks, which combine elastic and damping elements, that is, a spring and a shock absorber, as well as part of the guide vane in the form of a telescoping body, is not easy to include in the overall load-bearing frame. They are combined by a motor shield with amplifiers made of thin metal.

There is no tubular frame typical of sports bodies, especially a purely racing monocoque. A weak point in terms of rigidity is formed.

You can strengthen the front suspension in two ways - from above and from below. At the bottom of many cars, a power subframe made of profiled steel is already installed from the factory, but at the top the design changes little. It’s the same shield separating the interior and the engine compartment, which is very undesirable to strengthen, that is, to increase the total weight of the car.

The result was the widespread use in tuning of a power strut made of pipes of various sections, connecting the upper glasses of the suspension supports to each other. A spatial structure is formed, much more rigid than the sheet of the motor shield.

Sometimes additional fasteners are tied to this spacer, for example, a horizontal shelf of a shield or even supports of a power unit. The car significantly benefits in body rigidity, and therefore in handling. Especially if you additionally reconfigure the suspension.

Pros and cons of using front strut braces

According to the results of tests conducted by some automotive publications and reviews from many drivers, installing a spacer provides the following advantages:

The car's controllability and steering sensitivity are increased, especially in high-speed turns.
Body vibration is reduced.
Stability increases when moving in a straight line.
The risk of cracks due to metal fatigue is minimized.
Simple installation with 6-8 threaded connections, which can be performed by almost every car enthusiast.

The jumper is placed on standard studs and screwed with nuts

It is not recommended to operate vehicles that are 15 years old or more and have had their side members stretched without front strut struts. The reason is the same “tired” metal, more prone to deflection from impacts from the suspension. Without reinforcement, the body will quickly return to a state of disrepair.

Reference. According to reviews from owners of Russian-made cars, thanks to the tightening of the pillars, one of the common “diseases” - the creaking of the plastic dashboard - has disappeared.

Of the negative aspects of using stretch marks, three significant ones are worth noting:

any impact, including when falling into a hole or bump, is transferred from one wheel to another;
the opposite part of the body may be damaged from a side impact to the place where the pillar is attached;
A rod standing in the engine compartment can block access to elements of various systems, for example, an expansion tank with brake fluid.

Here you can see how the stretcher rests on the brake system reservoir

The last drawback can be avoided by using a spacer made by yourself, taking into account all the protruding parts. Prices for factory hardnesses are quite affordable and start from 1000 rubles.

Types of spacers

A jumper made from a profile pipe looks more beautiful

Jumpers for racks are made of round and rectangular pipes. There is no particular difference in their operational parameters, except that the profile pipe looks a little prettier. There are 2 ways to attach the rod to the mounting flanges:

rigid, made by welding;
movable, made on a hinge.

Hinge type stretcher

The hinged design is more reliable than the rigid one, since welded seams can burst over time due to body deformations. According to the method of fastening, spacers are divided into 2 groups:

Two-point. They are attached to the front pillar glasses, that is, they have 2 support points.
Three-point with intermediate fastening to the body.
Three-point with additional engine mount.

The third fulcrum is the engine

The last type of guy wires is equipped with a bracket attached to the bar through a rubber support. The upper part of the engine is screwed to it, which allows you to significantly reduce the vibration transmitted to the entire body of the car.

Here the third point of support is the body

According to functionality, jumpers are divided into regular and adjustable. In the latter, the rod consists of two parts, rigidly connected by means of a threaded coupling, whose rotation lengthens or shortens the pipe. The idea is that the strut should be suitable for cars of any age, including old ones, where the struts are already shifted towards the center.

Two-point stretch with adjustable length

On most factory cross members, manufacturers make special deep notches. In this way, they are trying to neutralize the main drawback of all stretch marks - the ability to transfer impacts from one side of the body to the other. According to the sellers, in the event of an accident with a side collision, the notched element will simply fold and will not transfer the impact energy to the opposite pillar.

Conventional cross member and with engine mount

Reference. In reality, much depends on the strength of the mechanical force and the angle at which it is applied. Practice shows that even spacers with notches sometimes do not save and the second rack still has to be straightened.

Adjustable rear cross member

As a rule, cross members are installed only on the front strut cups. But there are also rear struts, although they are not so popular for the following reasons:

a jumper in the trunk often becomes an obstacle to the transportation of goods, since it blocks part of the compartment;
the use of a rear strut does not provide such noticeable improvements in handling and stability as the front;
Not every car has the opportunity to mount a bar, unless you make a homemade one.

Strengthening the rear of the car reduces trunk volume

Note. Along with stretching the struts, car tuning enthusiasts sometimes use lower struts installed under the bottom of the car between the tie rod mounting brackets. The operation gives results precisely when two jumpers work together - upper and lower.

The lower spacer is placed in the eyelets of the rods

Does it make sense to put a spacer under the hood?

Quite often you can find a car that has a special strut brace installed under the hood. As a rule, such a design is rarely installed by the manufacturers themselves. From which we can conclude that the vast majority of them were supplied by car owners. At the same time, there is an opinion that such a device has only a purely aesthetic purpose, improving the appearance of the space under the hood. However, it has a number of advantages and disadvantages.

It would be foolish to deny the obvious fact that many drivers actually install spacers just to be pleasing to the eye. Such motorists care little whether this will bring harm or benefit to the car, because the only goal is to bring the appearance of the car closer to the sports segment. Moreover, the installation of this element itself does not take much time and is quite simple. If you choose the right spacer, you can install it in just 10 minutes. And you don’t even need outside help.

But before you run to the auto store to buy this fashionable device, you should carefully study its practical application and properties. Initially, the struts were designed to enhance the rigidity of the body, thereby significantly increasing the car's handling. In addition, manufacturers claim that due to the absence of microdeformation during turns, the wear of body elements will be noticeably lower. Stretching between posts is the most popular option for increasing rigidity. However, on the shelves of automotive supply stores you can also find spacers for the trunk, sills, under the engine, as well as many other solutions.

It is also worth noting that with such an abundance of offers, prices vary greatly. If you can buy a spacer for a domestic car for a symbolic 400 - 500 rubles, then a similar spare part for a foreign car will be quite expensive - the cost can sometimes reach several tens of thousands of wooden ones.

It would seem that there are two identical pieces of metal, what's the difference? But it is there. And very serious. Only a truly high-quality product will have all the properties declared by the manufacturer. Here it comes down to both the material and the correct fastenings. But the cheaper version is unlikely to bring much benefit. In addition, it will be subject to severe wear and deformation.

Particular attention should be paid to the number of fasteners. If you decide to install a spacer, it is better to choose one that has three of them. Two are installed on racks, and she is installed on the body. In this way, it will be possible to significantly improve the vehicle's handling.

But we must not forget the disadvantages of spacers. When a car leaves the factory, its struts are not rigidly fixed to each other. Therefore, if one side gets into an accident, the other side can get away with a slight fright, maintaining the integrity of the body. But if a strut is installed in the car, then in a serious accident it will transfer the load to the second strut, as a result of which the entire front part of the car can move. Then there is a possibility that it will not be possible to restore the original appearance of the car.

Therefore, it is quite difficult to make an unambiguous conclusion about whether installing a spacer will harm the car or, on the contrary, will benefit it. Here, each driver must evaluate the rationality of this acquisition himself. If improved controllability is very important for him, then it makes sense to think about installing a high-quality spacer. If he only cares about appearance, then it is better to pay attention to a cheap design. This one is easy to install, and in the event of an accident it will simply break and will not transfer the load.

Source

Preparing for self-production

To make a jumper for the front pillars yourself, you need to prepare the following materials:

sheet steel with a thickness of at least 3 mm;
pipe with a diameter of 32-40 mm with a wall thickness of 3 mm or more;
thin cardboard and marker for making a template;
primer for metal and paint in an aerosol can.

A thick-walled pipe is what you need to make a guy wire

Regardless of which cross member design you choose - rigid or with hinges, you will not be able to do without a welding inverter, as well as without the skills to work with it. The easiest way is to weld a rigid, non-adjustable spacer, clearly defining all the dimensions. In addition to welding, other tools will be required for the job:

an angle grinder (in common parlance - a grinder) with a circle for cutting metal;
electric drill with a set of drills;
plumbing tools - hammer, core, round file and pliers;
metal brush;
spanners;
measuring devices - tape measure, ruler, square;
welding gloves and safety glasses.

Required tool kit

Advice. To make a stretcher of the desired shape, which also looks nice in appearance, you will probably need a machine - a pipe bender. Since not every car enthusiast has one, you will have to contact a specialized workshop or bend the pipe manually. To obtain a beautiful turning radius, the metal must be heated.

At the preparatory stage, it is important to decide where in the engine compartment to place the pipe and whether it can be made straight. The jumper should not interfere with vehicle maintenance or block access to the brake system or clutch reservoirs. At the same time, it is necessary to provide a distance of 3-5 cm from the closed hood so that the lid does not rub against the metal of the cross member and mounting flanges.

Advice. When developing the spacer design, keep in mind that the pipe can be moved back or forward within the diameter of the rack cups. It is not allowed to extend it further by welding a long bracket, because in this case forces will act on the flange, tending to rotate it around its own axis.

Making a spacer with your own hands

The first thing to do is to make flanges. To do this, unscrew the nuts securing the stands to the glasses and, placing cardboard on them, mark the future holes with a marker. Then cut them out in paper and put it on the pins. Now all that remains is to outline the outline of the flange according to the shape of the glass and trim off the excess cardboard. Inside the template, make a round opening corresponding to the protruding part of the support.

Ready cardboard template with holes

Important point. Make the outer edge of the template facing the engine not round, but straight, since a rib for attaching the pipe will be welded to it.

Perform further operations in this order:

Attach the cardboard template to the sheet of metal, outline it with a marker and cut out the steel flange using a grinder. Round all edges and sand to ensure there are no burrs.
Mark the centers of the holes and drill them according to the diameter of the studs. Use a small drill first and then a large one. Bevel both sides of the holes and try the part in place. If a discrepancy is found, widen each hole slightly with a round file.
Cut a 4cm wide strip of steel and weld it at a 90° angle to the straight edge of the flange. To prevent the strip from bending back under pressure from the pipe, make triangular stiffening ribs and weld them along the edges.
Place the flanges on the studs and check for distortions. Press them with two nuts and carefully measure the distance between the strips to cut the pipe as accurately as possible.
Disconnect the battery and cover the engine compartment with a damp cloth. Attach a pipe cut to size to the flange brackets and securely weld it at both ends. Check the gap between the hood cover and your structure.
Unscrew the nuts and remove the brace from the car. Boil all the seams thoroughly, remove the slag and try to put it back. If the structure has been welded so badly that the flanges do not fit on the studs, file the holes again.
Remove the finished spacer again, clean it with a brush from rust, degrease it and paint it in 2 layers, after applying a primer. Place the jumper in place and finally tighten it with nuts.

Advice. If you plan to bend the spacer, do it before cutting the pipe to size.

The coupling for regulation is placed in the pipe gap

If you are a specialist in welding, then you can easily make the stretch adjustable. To do this, buy a ready-made threaded coupling of the required diameter and weld it in the middle of the cross member, having previously cut it into 2 parts. After welding, twist them together, secure the coupling with a locknut, and only then cut the pipe exactly to size between the flanges.

Note. The described method is quite suitable for making a back stretcher, if you want to do it yourself. In this case, think carefully about the design so that the jumper takes up minimal space in the luggage compartment and does not block it in the middle.

Successful design of the stretcher - it stands right behind the seats

How to make a spread with your own hands - photo

A workpiece cut from metal The workpiece must be rounded and cleaned The part is tried on in place Strips and stiffeners are welded to the homemade flange The pipe must be carefully grabbed to the flange Correct design - the pipe goes around the tank with liquid After painting, the spacer is finally attached To distribute the load, a gusset must be welded to the pipe Last fitting spacers before painting First you need to unscrew the fastening nuts

Which ones to install

The first criterion by which we divide these parts is the presence of a regulatory mechanism.

Non-adjustable struts are usually made for specific car models. This part is worth choosing because of its greater reliability compared to stretch marks with adjustable length.

Adjustable stretchers are much more versatile: they are a composite part, which allows you to adjust them to the required length. Such spacers will not be difficult to install under any hood.

Another criterion is the number of attachment points. The most common options are with 2 or 3 holes: based on the school physics course, three-point fastening will be much more reliable. Often, installing such a part may require a little more effort - you will need to drill additional holes for installation.

Of course, the differences don't end there. The method of manufacturing the part may also be different: for example, stamping from a single material will be more reliable than a spacer welded from different parts, but the second option will also add rigidity to the body.

There are also rear strut struts, but such tuning is much less common, as it “eats” the useful volume of the car’s luggage compartment.