Reasons for unstable engagement of first gear on Kalina and solution. Reverse gear does not engage on Lada Kalina: reasons and solutions Lada Kalina does not engage speed

A lot of time has passed since AvtoVAZ put on sale a car called Lada Kalina. Advertising and the hope of domestic car enthusiasts for a bright future did their job - every third Russian chose Kalina as a new car. However, the joy of owning a domestic car ends sooner or later.

After just a few months of operation, the Kalina car showed its rather capricious character. And it just so happened that the owners of the Lada Kalina began to disappear more and more often in the garage, once again doing some kind of repair, rather than driving the car. AvtoVAZ engineers are well aware of the shortcomings and childhood diseases, and are doing their best to get rid of them in the next generation in order to increase reliability. However, the result of the improvements is insignificant. The car still cannot please with its endurance and resistance to wear. It’s especially unpleasant when the Kalina doesn’t start at the right moment. And the car owner is forced to start troubleshooting. Let's try to understand the reasons for the car's reluctance to start.

Immobilizer

If the car refuses to start, then this is one of the possible reasons. You can notice problems in the operation of this system yourself. If the corresponding icon blinks and a characteristic beeping sound is heard, then you should read the operating instructions. If the Lada Kalina does not start, the immobilizer is a common problem. The problem is not easy to fix. In the instructions for the car, the manufacturer indicates the decoding of sounds and blinking lights - the car owner needs to count the time between flashes, the number of buzzer signals, and then read what the manufacturer writes about this.

In winter, it often happens that the car starts normally after about the sixth time. In most cases, this problem can be solved by retraining the key - after this procedure, problems with starting should not appear.

How and why the immobilizer fails

Let's dwell on this topic in a little more detail. The thing is that the ECU controller on this model is located under the heater radiator. In second-generation models, the controller was moved.

So, if the Kalina does not start, you need to remove the side wall from the left side in the passenger seat and visually check the ECU. The block must be dry. If it is wet, then it is filled with coolant - in this case, it will not be possible to restore the ECU, only replacement will help.

First of all, when exposed to liquid, the output switch burns out. The chip can be re-soldered, but after such repairs the problems will go away for literally two months, and then they will appear again. The heater radiator will need to be replaced. If this problem exists, then experts recommend installing a new controller between the engine compartment partition and the stove.

Now about the immobilizer - in Kalina cars the manufacturer installs APS-6 immobilizers. In very rare cases, these devices fail on their own. Often, the problem is hidden in the wiring or control panel. The key fob body is held together with one self-tapping screw - the screw can be overtightened or undertightened. A crack appears on the remote device chip between the transponder contacts. In this case, if the Kalina does not start, only a spare or training key, or replacing the remote control will help.

Clutch disc and flywheel

In fact, wear occurs both at the clutch disc and at the flywheel itself. However, here, most likely, the gears will shift, but slip! You release the clutch pedal, but slippage occurs, that is, the car does not move, and it may jerk.

We look at the disk, maybe change it. We also look at the wear on the flywheel! If it is large, then we change it completely.

From experience I can say that our working VAZ 2111 was used mainly intercity, after 2 - 3 years the mileage was very high. The following symptoms began to appear: the gears turned on very poorly when the engine was running! We removed the manual transmission, looked at the basket - clutch disc - flywheel. And everything went for replacement, there was a lot of wear, and one petal on the basket was cracked. They even changed the release lever and the fork.

If the reason is not eliminated even now, then the problem is in the gearbox itself! It's worth taking it apart and looking at it

Starter

The immobilizer has been checked and does not give any alarms, but the engine still does not want to start. Another reason for this behavior is the starter. It is easy to notice a problem with the starter - you will not hear the characteristic sound of the engine starting. The mechanism simply does not spin, which means the engine will not be able to start. Everything is clear here - you need to remove and check the starter.

If the Kalina does not start, the first reason may be the battery. It may simply be discharged. If the lights in the cabin and on the dashboard are not lit, the driver will be able to immediately notice this. However, it often happens that everything is in order, but the starter still does not work. For diagnostics, turn on the high beams and get out of the car. Dim headlights are due to the battery. It is discharged, but only to a critical level, when there is not enough power to turn the starter.

If the Kalina does not start, the starter does not turn, the best way out of this situation is to charge the battery. But if the headlights are bright in high beam mode and are not going to dim, then you will have to look for the reason elsewhere.

Starter or wiring problems

You can use a multimeter to test the wiring. The red wire is connected to the starter contact, the black wire to ground. In a normal situation, the device will show from 12.5 to 14.5 V. If the reading is less or even zero, then there is something wrong with the wiring.

The first step is to clean the contacts, check the integrity of the wires and fuses.

If the check shows that there is current, then the starter will have to be replaced. If the latter makes clicks but does not rotate, then the starter motor has failed. If everything is the other way around, then the problem is with the retractor coil.

ECU

This is another popular problem when Kalina does not start. ECUs are the “brains” of the car; they themselves are quite reliable, and if you don’t touch them, then no problems will happen. However, most often the ECU is flooded.

This often happens when antifreeze leaks. This has already been discussed in the section on the immobilizer. When installing an alarm system or when pulling car wires, they forget to install the plugs - water gets into the ECU. Repairing an electronic unit is a futile exercise.

In the new generation, this problem was solved, and now the ECU is located in a different location. However, now another problem has appeared - if the drain hole, which is located next to the cabin filter, is clogged, then water can enter the computer through the holes.

Spark plug

If everything is in order with the electronic filling, you should look for the problem in the candles. Often, and especially in winter, it floods.

Compression in the engine in cold weather does not meet the standards, so the engine may not start immediately. Often flooding of spark plugs occurs due to a discharged battery, which is unable to produce a normal spark. If not, the reasons may also be in the wiring or the spark plugs themselves. The easiest way to dry the spark plugs is to press the gas to the floor and crank the engine with the starter two or more times. Often, after this the car will start. If this does not help, then for more thorough drying you should dismantle the spark plugs, then clean them, check the gap, and then dry them with a hairdryer or in the oven.

Gearbox linkages and rods

I remember I was “infuriated” on the VAZ 2114 by the fact that the gearbox lever was swinging from side to side like a “spoon in a glass”; I always wanted to make it stiffer, in some way. But there was only one way, to climb down the car and play with the scenes and rods. In principle, they can be released, tightened, the lever can be adjusted for tilt, etc. In general, I played around, but I noticed that if I press the lever too hard to the left, the ability to engage gear (first and reverse) disappears. This manifests itself when the car is not running, I’m already silent about the running engine.

Often the slides break, or they fly out of the fastenings, or the wear is simply enormous and they need to be replaced (this happens with high mileage). The very first thing we do is climb under the car and look at them.

Gasoline pump

The vagaries of the fuel pump are often observed, especially in winter. The starter works, but the Kalina car refuses to start, you can’t hear the fuel pump running, the dashboard may flash

First of all, check the pressure in the fuel system. To do this, open the hood and look for the cap on the ramp with the injectors. You can see the nipple there - if you press it, fuel should spray out. If it splashes, then the problem is not with the fuel pump.

Another reason is the relay. There is a cover in the transmission tunnel on the passenger side. It contains power coils. To eliminate the malfunction, just knock or warm them up.

It may send the wrong signal, resulting in fuel being delivered incorrectly. Fuel injectors also become depressurized. As a result, the fuel mixture becomes over-rich. The injectors need to be replaced or cleaned.

These are all the reasons why the Lada Kalina refuses to start.

A modern car is literally packed with electronics, and the Lada Kalina is no exception in this sense. On the one hand, electronics make life much easier for the driver. On the other hand, it can also become a cause and source of headaches for the driver, since the abundance of electronics can seriously complicate troubleshooting. The most common electronics-related problem on Kalina is the inability to engage reverse gear. We will tell you why the transmission does not turn on and how to fix it in this article.

Manual transmission bearings

And the last thing that could be the bearings - although they are very strong in the box, sometimes they also “stick”. The box will work like a tractor, especially when warm.

In any case, if you have problems in the gearbox itself, then this is an expensive repair. It is also better to entrust it to professionals, because the gearbox is a very complex mechanism.

As you can see, there are quite a few reasons, but in fairness it is worth noting that mechanical transmissions are a fairly reliable unit; they themselves break down quite rarely, especially if you change the transmission fluid on time and pour a branded one of very good quality.

If the gears do not engage, then these are most likely “attached” problems, starting from the rockers and cables, ending with the basket, clutch disc and flywheel.

Now let’s take a look at a short video version of my article.

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The design of the reverse gear locking mechanism in the Lada Kalina

All the main elements of the locking mechanism are listed

To engage reverse gear on Kalina, the driver needs to move the gearshift lever slightly towards himself and then forward. This must be done by lifting a small plastic ring on the lever, which serves as a kind of insurance. There is a solenoid in the gearbox that prevents reverse gear from being engaged until the ring is raised. After lifting the ring, the magnetic switch built into the lever is activated, the solenoid is connected to ground, after which the rod inside the solenoid moves. This leads to the fact that the stroke of the gear selection mechanism increases and it becomes possible to engage another speed - reverse.

Removal and installation of gearbox Lada Kalina 1117 2004 - 2021

Tools:

Parts and consumables:

Note:

We carry out the work with an assistant on an inspection ditch or overpass.

1. Drain the oil from the gearbox as described here. Disconnect the wire terminal from the negative terminal of the battery. Remove the air filter as described here. Remove the starter as described here. We remove the clutch cable lead from the groove of the clutch release fork lever, following the instructions described here.

2. Disconnect the wiring block from the reverse light switch.

3. Disconnect the wire block from the speed sensor.

4. Using a 10mm wrench, unscrew the three bolts securing the lower clutch housing cover.

5. Remove the clutch housing cover.

6. Remove the right and left front wheel drives, as described here. Using a 13mm spanner, loosen the tightening of the nut of the coupling bolt of the clamp securing the control rod to the shank of the gear selector rod hinge. Then disconnect the transmission control rod.

7. Using a 19mm wrench, unscrew the nuts of the two bolts securing the clutch housing to the gearbox housing (which also secure the torque rod bracket), holding the bolts from turning with a head of the same size.

8. We remove the reaction rod with the bracket from the gearbox.

9. Disconnect the plastic throttle cable holder from the gearbox bracket.

10. Using a 13mm socket, unscrew the bolt securing the ignition coil bracket to the clutch housing.

11. Using a 19mm socket, unscrew the two upper bolts securing the gearbox to the cylinder block, which simultaneously secure the bracket with the holders of the throttle cable and wiring harness. The front bolt (in the direction of vehicle travel) is shorter than the rear bolt. We remove the bracket with the cable and wiring harness from the gearbox.

12. Remove the left front suspension brace as described here. We install adjustable stops through wooden blocks under the engine oil pan and gearbox housing.

13. Using a 19mm spanner, unscrew the nut of the lower rear mounting of the gearbox to the cylinder block.

14. Using a 19mm socket, unscrew the bolt of the lower front fastening of the gearbox to the cylinder block.

15. Using the “E-14” head, unscrew the two screws securing the front left support bracket of the power unit to the support.

16. Using a 15mm socket, unscrew the three nuts securing the bracket for the front left support of the power unit to the gearbox.

17. Remove the bracket.

18. Using a 19mm socket, unscrew the two outer bolts 1 securing the rear support bracket of the power unit to the gearbox, and using a 17mm socket, unscrew the middle bolt 2.

19. We move the gearbox away from the engine, removing the input shaft from the hub of the driven clutch disc.

20. When removing and installing the gearbox, do not rest the gearbox input shaft on the clutch diaphragm spring petals so as not to damage them. Before installing the gearbox, apply a thin layer of CV joint-4 lubricant to the splined end of the input shaft.

New Lada: Lada Kalina station wagon or Lada Largus

21. We insert the input shaft of the gearbox into the splines of the driven clutch disk and, orienting the gearbox so that the two guide pins fit into the corresponding holes in the clutch housing, and the standard pin of the clutch housing into the hole in the cylinder block, push the gearbox all the way into the engine cylinder block .

22. Fill the gearbox with oil as described here.

The article is missing:

Why did reverse gear stop turning on and how to solve it

Difficulties engaging reverse gear can arise for a number of reasons, the most common of which are listed below.

The interlock fuse has blown: reason number one

Fuse F21, responsible for blocking reverse gear, is located in the bottom row, in the eighth connector

This is the first element that you need to pay attention to in case of breakdowns related to electronics. In the Lada Kalina car this fuse is designated F21. Its rating is 10 A, and it is located in the main fuse block of the car (there it is eighth from the left). The fuse is removed and its jumper is inspected. If it is broken, the fuse is replaced with a new one. Then the car starts and an attempt is made again to engage reverse gear. If the new fuse blows again, this indicates that there is a short circuit in the solenoid's power supply circuit, therefore, not only the fuse will have to be changed, but also the solenoid itself.

Video about where the fuse box is located in Kalina

The magnetic switch is faulty

The arrow shows the connector that must be closed using a wire or a regular paper clip

This doesn't happen often because the part is quite reliable. The solution is obvious: you need to remove it and check it. To do this, you need to remove the cover mounted on the gear shift lever. Next, you should find the connector that is connected to the lever. It is carefully disconnected, and its contacts are closed with some kind of wire (an ordinary paper clip, which can be attached to the connector with a piece of electrical tape, is also suitable). After closing the contacts, you must try to turn on the reverse gear again. If it succeeds, then the reason was in the magnetic switch, and it needs to be changed. Another option is possible here: the plastic ring itself, to which this switch is connected, does not rise high enough (usually this is due to its wear). So before disassembling the lever and removing the switch, it makes sense to make sure that the ring rises freely and to the required height. If the ring sticks, it must be replaced.

No voltage is supplied from the solenoid to the gear shift lever

The arrow shows a clamp with a frayed wire.

The most common reason. The wire connecting the solenoid and the gear shift lever is located very poorly. It passes under the bottom of the car, near the side member on the left. Here it is affected by moisture, anti-ice chemicals, and finally, it can simply tear due to a falling stone. And most often, this wire breaks where it is attached to the spar with a clamp: dirt accumulates under the clamp, which acts as an abrasive material, literally grinding both the insulation and the wire itself. As a rule, these damages are visible to the naked eye. To identify them, the car is driven into an inspection hole, where an inspection is carried out (in which a flashlight will be very helpful). If the wire is damaged, it is replaced. The second option is also possible: the damage is not visible, and the wire looks intact. In this case, you should use a multimeter to check whether there is voltage at the solenoid output. If it is not there, then the problem is in the wire.

Lockup solenoid burnt out

If upon inspection it turns out that the blocking fuse is intact, the wiring is intact, and there is still no voltage at the solenoid outputs, then the solenoid itself has failed. The first step is to determine whether current is flowing to the solenoid. To do this, both wires are disconnected from it, and the voltage on each is checked. If there is no voltage on both wires, then the cause of the breakdown is somewhere in the area between the solenoid and the fuse. If voltage is supplied to one of the wires, it means that the winding in the solenoid itself has burned out. In order to verify this, you need to switch the multimeter to the ringing mode, and then touch the outputs on the solenoid with a probe. If the multimeter display shows zero all this time, the winding is burned out and the solenoid must be replaced.

To summarize, the vast majority of problems with reverse gears are caused by damaged wiring that is located in a very bad place. In fact, this is a serious miscalculation of the designers of the Lada Kalina, who not only placed the wires where they should not be, but also did not bother to properly protect them. It is for this reason that troubleshooting reverse gear problems should always begin by inspecting the wiring under the left side member. In most cases, this saves a lot of time.

As you know, not only the movement of the car, but also its functioning as a whole depends on the operation of the gearbox (gearbox). Transmission malfunctions entail not only the inability to change gears, but also expensive vehicle repairs. Therefore, if you are the owner of a Lada Kalina car, then you will be interested to know whether the Kalina does not turn on at all. We will also tell you about repairing faults at home.

Remember that transmission problems in any vehicle should not be neglected.

Otherwise, a series of breakdowns may occur, which will require you to spend not only a lot of time and effort, but also money.

[Hide]

Viburnum speed switches poorly

An automatic transmission is much more demanding in terms of accuracy in maintaining the oil level in it than a manual transmission. Both too low and too high oil levels are very harmful to her. Both of these can lead to serious damage. In both cases, oil foaming occurs. When there is a lack of oil due to the fact that the oil pump begins to capture air along with the oil. When there is excess oil, it foams on the rotating parts, which in this case are immersed in it. Foamed oil compresses better and has low thermal conductivity. Therefore, if you operate a machine with such oil, the pressure in its control systems will be low. Which will lead to slipping of the clutches and their intensive wear. Deteriorated thermal conductivity will not allow all excess heat to be removed. Which, together with low pressure, will lead to the machine failing and requiring serious repairs.

Why might there be interruptions when engaging first gear?

The reasons for the breakdown of this unit worry many Kalina owners, since the failure of certain gearbox elements, due to which the gears are poorly engaged, can already be called a “disease”. And this disease, one way or another, is associated with a certain defect in the production and assembly of serial models of this car at the plant, which, unfortunately, was never eliminated by AvtoVAZ engineers.

In fact, there may be quite a few direct reasons why the first speed does not engage well, as a result of which even experienced specialists will not be able to immediately calculate the breakdown. What can we say about ordinary car enthusiasts?

So what makes first gear difficult to engage?

• failure of the cardan or rocker - these faults often cause the inability to engage first gear;
• breakdown of the Kalina gearbox lever itself is also a common problem;
• loosening the clamp;
• the slots of the box have served their service life - they have worn out;
• A malfunction in the release bearing is a fairly rare breakdown encountered by car owners of this Lada model. Usually, when the release bearing breaks down, all gears without exception are switched on with an unpleasant sound, one might say a crunch, and additional effort must be made to shift;
• incomplete disengagement of the clutch - the solution is to replace it;
• failure of the gear drive control rod;
• in the gearbox, the screws securing the hinge or the speed selector rod lever have become loose, so they need to be tightened;
• oil seal failure;
• incorrect regulation of the gear shift drive;
• failure or expiration of the service life of plastic elements in the gearbox control drive;

Lada Kalina lost all gears

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good day.
Here I became the owner of a Viburnum 1117 in the “luxury” version. Year 2010, mileage 37 thousand km. (I took it from a good friend, I watched the car for several years and I am 100 percent sure about the incorrect mileage). I understand that there will most likely be one answer to what is described below - “an autopsy will show” and an autopsy will most likely

can’t be avoided.. But I’m just interested in the opinion. So, after several days of travel, when driving on a dirt road, it suddenly stopped turning on.

second gear. It feels like the lever doesn’t go as deep as it should and doesn’t lock. Either it is fixed

halfway and after releasing the clutch it returns to neutral. The rest of the gears were switched on without

There were no problems, no crunches, no extraneous noises. I reached my destination in 1st-3rd gears, then

When driving home on the asphalt, I decided to try turning on 2nd - it turned on. More problems with 2nd gear

It wasn’t there for a week - it turned on without problems when moving from 1st to 2nd and from 3rd to 2nd. My daily mileage is 50 - 70

km. The second coming of the “sore” came on Friday evening - while driving on the highway, I slowed down in front of the railway

moving, the lever in second gear is not fixed. ok, again 1-3, after a couple of km I entered the city -

the second one appeared. A similar picture appeared yesterday - I drove about 200 km along the highway, after one of the intersections -

the second one was gone, then I drove a couple of tens of kilometers and the second one appeared. another 200 km - the second one was where it needed to be. Now there is a second one too.

What are your assumptions? The drawstring is still probably unlikely and you need to open the box? The synchronizer receives

end? A very long trip is expected soon and it’s better to solve all the misunderstandings before it..

Source

Ways to solve the problem

If you decide to repair your gearbox yourself, we suggest you use our instructions. You must be prepared for the fact that any repair involves dismantling and disassembling the gearbox. Remember that if during disassembly of the gearbox you replaced at least one part, then you need to select an adjusting ring for the differential bearings.

Tools

To dismantle and repair the Kalina gearbox, prepare:

• set of socket wrenches. In particular, you will need keys for “10”, “13”, “14”, “17”, “32”;
• large slotted screwdriver;
• beard;
• hammer;
• container for draining transmission fluid;
• pliers;
• syringe for filling the unit with transmission oil;
• Phillips screwdriver.

Steps

Also ask a friend for help, because for removal you will need an assistant and, of course, a garage with a pit or an overpass. So, let's remove the unit:

Let's look at repairing the main breakdowns found in Kalina cars. These breakdowns can be fixed at home if you have basic knowledge of gearbox repair.

Replacing the clutch release bearing

• Having removed the unit, you need to remove the ends of the spring retainer from the junction with the bearing coupling;
• then remove the release bearing;
• disconnect the spring holder clamps, and then remove the clutch bearing;
• take the new bearing and inspect it - it should rotate around its axis easily and without problems;
• Before installing the part, it is necessary to lubricate the guide sleeve with grease;
• you need to insert the part into the coupling so that its protruding part is directed away from the coupling;
• the element must be fixed with a spring.

Replacing oil seals

• pull the inner joint oil seal out of the unit using a flat-head screwdriver;
• take a new part and press it all the way inside the unit;
• now unscrew the bolts securing the guide sleeve and remove it;
• using a screwdriver, remove the input shaft oil seal;
• Press in the new part in the same way so that its working side is directed into the unit;
• now disconnect the unit control rod from the gear shift joint;
• unscrew the bolt fixing the side dish to the gear shift rod and dismantle it;
• carefully, using a hammer and chisel, knock out the cage from the crankcase of the unit and dismantle it as an assembly with the gear shift rod oil seal;
• remove the oil seal directly and replace it with a new one, driving it into place until it stops;
• It is better to lubricate the working side of the part with transmission fluid.

Replacing the clutch release fork

• To replace the clutch fork, it is necessary to dismantle the gearbox and remove the clutch release bearing from it. Here you will need a knife or screwdriver and pliers;
• pry the clutch boot and disconnect it from the fork lever;
• then disconnect the fastening tabs from the inside of the crankcase;
• use a knife or screwdriver to pry up the plastic bushing of the fork axle. If this element in your unit is already in poor condition, then immediately replace it. You also need to replace the part if the fastening petals are worn out;
• Move the clutch fork and remove its end from the bushing located in the crankcase. Remove the fork and gearbox lever;
• disconnect the retainer from the clutch fork by first squeezing its ends with pliers. If the latch itself has already served its service life and it is clear that it has lost its elasticity, then the part must be replaced;
• after this, inspect the fork: if its lever is cracked, bent, or the legs are damaged in the places where they directly connect to the release bearing clutch, then replace the part. To do this, the bushing must be knocked out, and the new component must be pressed in until it stops, not forgetting to lubricate the metal and plastic elements with grease or oil before doing this;
• Installation of the clutch fork on Lada Kalinas is carried out in the reverse order.

Now you know what to do if the first speed is difficult to engage. You can replace these components yourself at home. The main thing is to strictly follow the instructions. If you are not confident in your abilities, then seek help from specialists. Having done everything as stated in the instructions, install the gearbox back in its place, and then fill it with transmission fluid.

Technical features of the gearbox

The input shaft, which is a block of drive gears, is in constant engagement with similar elements of the front gears. The secondary shaft has a hollow structure that allows oil to be supplied to the driven gears. This mechanism has synchronizers and driven bearings.

Kalina gearbox device

When repairing a Lada gearbox, special schemes are used. The radial clearance of roller bearings is no more than 0.07 mm. For ball analogs, this figure should not exceed 0.04 mm. Oil is supplied through an oil sump, which is located in the area of ​​the front bearing, fixed behind the secondary shaft. You can adjust the tension by selecting the desired thickness of the rings. The last parts are installed in the crankcase. The driven gear of the Kalina gearbox is attached to the differential flange. The box communicates with the atmosphere through the saloon located at the top of the structure in question.

If noise appears in the gearbox during operation, the bearings will need to be replaced. Sounds that occur when releasing/pressing the clutch pedal indicate the need to replace worn elements. The gearbox is controlled through a drive consisting of a lever, a ball joint, and a switch rod. To prevent the gears from switching off on their own, the cable structure is equipped with a reaction rod, one end of which is connected to the motor, and the other to the lever.

Repair of the Lada Kalina gearbox is carried out when the seals of the internal joints fail. Before replacing them, drain the oil, disconnect the front wheel drive, and remove the parts with a screwdriver. To press the new oil seal, you will need a suitable mandrel.

The switching system is equipped with 3 axes. One has a three-arm shift and gear selector lever. The second axis has brackets that block rotation. The gearbox is replaced after 75,000 km. If the rocker and cardan are out of order, they need to be replaced with new ones.

Video “Repair of the gear shift unit in a VAZ car”

This video shows the process of repairing a gearbox in a VAZ car. The instructions are general and suitable for Kalina cars.

What to do if reverse gear on Kalina does not engage

?
Until this happens, make sure that in your set of keys that you carry with you all the time, you must have a 36-socket spanner. A key of this size is rarely available in stores where they sell tools. But they are almost always available at car markets. The cost of such a key is around 200 rubles, but it’s worth it. The reverse speed lock on Kalina
is made using a solenoid, the rod of which performs this function.
Power is supplied to the solenoid using a switch ring located on the gear shift handle. By lifting the ring, we turn on the solenoid, the rod is pulled into the solenoid and unlocking occurs inside the box. And then, by moving the handle to the reverse gear position, we can engage reverse gear. The limit switch located on the box is activated, and the reversing lamps and an intermittent sound signal in the car interior turn on. And when, at the most inopportune moment, we don’t hear this signal and realize that we cannot engage reverse gear, a shocking moment occurs! So what should we do now?! Well, it’s not all that scary! The solenoid control circuit
just didn't work ! You are very lucky if all this happened in your garage or near your home! But if this happened on the way, then don’t be too upset, because we have the same key for 36 in the trunk! Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left and look under the front of the car from the left wheel side, you will see on the box the same solenoid to which the connector with wires is connected. Disconnect the connector and use a 36 mm wrench to unscrew the solenoid by 7-8 mm. We wrap a wire or even electrical tape into the resulting gap and tighten the solenoid a little. We try to engage reverse gear. Happened?! Now you can safely drive to the garage. Just be very careful, as first gear and reverse are located very close. Once we get to the garage, we will look for the problem. Consider the electrical circuit for controlling the solenoid:

12 Volts are supplied through fuse F21 to solenoid L1. Using switch S1 on the handle we close the circuit to ground. The solenoid coil is activated. Fuse F21 10A is located in the fuse block - it is the 8th from the left. The removal key is located in the same block at the top right. We take out the fuse and check it with a tester or tester (supply power from the battery through a test lamp). We replace the faulty fuse with a new one of the same rating. The next step: checking the switch (by the way, it is a reed switch). We lift up the cover on the handle.

We immediately see the connector connected to the switch. Let's disconnect it.

We take a paper clip (metal) and use it to close the contacts of the connector, the wires from which go down into the underground floor of the car. If after this you can engage reverse gear, then the switch is faulty. If the “miracle” does not happen, we move on. Remove the connector from the solenoid. We insert two needles into it (I used sewing needles, for potholders, with balls - they do not allow them to close with each other). We measure the voltage. It should be 12 volts. But that is not all. It is necessary to load it with a light bulb. I used 5 W at 12 V. If the light bulb does not light, then we have an open circuit, and the voltage is present due to the resistance formed by copper oxide. In 99% of cases, a wire break (fracture) occurs in the harness, at the location where the clamp is installed on the pallet. Remove the clamp by squeezing it from the bottom of the mount. Disconnect the connector from the reverse lamp switch and remove the entire harness. Remove the electrical tape from the corrugation and pull out the wires. The broken wire is immediately visible. We cut off the wires with side cutters and extend them with others that are suitable in diameter (according to the cross-section of the wire). 10 cm of wire is enough. It is best to solder the twist with a soldering iron and insulate it. I did this using heat shrink tubing. Then we insulate everything with PVC tape. You can wear another corrugation. The main thing is that moisture does not get there, otherwise sooner or later everything will have to be repeated. We throw away the clamp, it is not needed there. If you want, you can secure the harness with a plastic tie - it costs pennies at an electrical goods store. We install the connectors in place and check the operation of the solenoid. The solenoid itself very rarely fails. To check, its resistance is 2.2 Ohms. If you unscrewed the solenoid, do not forget to tighten it again! An option when the solenoid still fails. To replace the solenoid, you need to drain the oil from the box. Although you don't have to drain it. Just quickly plug the hole with something and then quickly screw in a new one. A little oil will spill out - then add more. When installing a new solenoid, its threads must be lubricated with silicone sealant to prevent oil from oozing down the threads. Good luck everyone!

There are quite a few reasons why reverse gear does not engage, so sometimes it is not at all easy to understand what caused this malfunction. Moreover, in cars “stuffed” with electronics and all kinds of sensors, it is the problem with the electronics or contacts that becomes the reason why the reverse gear stops engaging.

In this article I will talk about possible causes and malfunctions due to which the reverse gear on the Lada Kalina does not engage. You will also learn how to find and fix a malfunction in the reverse gear locking mechanism with your own hands.

Reverse does not engage - reasons

1. Before you start drastic actions and disassemble “anything and everything”, check the gear shift lever itself, this may be the reason. The linkage and cardan are quite often the cause of this breakdown. The splines could also be worn out or the clamp loosened. In this case, you will need an inspection hole.
2. A faulty release bearing is an option. Although it is unlikely, since in this case all gears without exception would be engaged with a characteristic crunch and with great effort.
3. Reverse gear may stop engaging due to problems in the reverse gear locking mechanism; in order to confirm or refute this, remove the gear shift knob along with the dashboard between the seats and perform a visual inspection.

In my case, the problem was precisely the faulty wiring of the transmission lock solenoids (break or fracture), how I solved this issue, read on.

How to check and repair the reverse gear locking mechanism of a Lada Kalina with your own hands?

Theory:

Power comes to the solenoid through a switch ring located on the gearshift knob. It works like this: you lift the ring, thereby turning on the solenoid, the rod is pulled into the solenoid, which leads to unlocking the reverse gear. After this, you can engage reverse gear by moving . Next, the “limit switch” located on the box is turned on, and the rear stops are turned on, and an intermittent sound signal is turned on in the cabin.

To fix this problem you will need:

1. Key to "36";
2. Electrical tape or heat shrink;
3. A piece of copper wire;
4. Tester;
5. Soldering iron.

Here is the solenoid control circuit:

Through fuse F21, +12 Volts are supplied to solenoid L1, using switch S1 on the handle, the circuit is closed to ground, after which the solenoid coil is activated.

1. The 10A fuse we need, F21, is located 8th on the left in the fuse block. Take it out and check it with a tester. If replace with a new one of the same value.

2. Now it's time to check the switch, to do this, lift the cover on the handle, after which you will see the connector connected to the switch. Carefully turn it off.

3. Using a paper clip, you need to close the contacts of the connector from which the wires go down under the Kalina floor. Now try to engage reverse gear; if it does, the switch is faulty. If not, continue troubleshooting.

4. Remove the connector from the solenoid, install two pins in it, then use a tester to measure the voltage, the device should show 12 volts. In addition, you need to load it with a light bulb. A 5-Watt 12 V is suitable for this; if the light bulb does not light up, you have an open circuit, and the voltage is explained by the resistance formed due to copper oxide. As practice shows, 99% of breaks and fractures occur in the harness, in the place where the clamp is installed on the pallet.

5. Remove the clamp by squeezing its fasteners from below.

6. Disconnect the connector from the stop switch and remove the entire harness. Remove the electrical tape from the corrugation and remove the wires. If the wire is broken or broken, you will notice characteristic signs.

7. Using wire cutters, pinch off the wires and connect others of similar cross-section and diameter. It is better to solder the twist itself and insulate it or use heat shrink. If desired, you can put on another corrugation, the main thing is that moisture does not penetrate, otherwise the problem will very soon recur. I personally threw away the clamp, if you need it you can leave it. Secure the harness with a plastic clamp.

8. Connect the connectors and check the operation of the solenoid. Failure of the solenoid itself is a fairly rare phenomenon; to check it, connect a tester; the resistance should be 2.2 Ohms. If, however, there is a problem there. There is a way. in which it is fashionable not to drain, but here a certain skill is required, the main thing is to sharply plug the hole with something, and then screw in a new one. A little oil will, of course, spill out, but you can add it back. When installing a new solenoid, do not forget to lubricate the threads with sealant, if this is not done over time, oil will begin to ooze along the threads.

If previous checks did not lead to anything, there are several options left, namely:

1. The mechanism for fastening the gear selection mechanism has failed;
2. The fixing bolt has been cut off;
3. The spring in the gearbox has broken.

The worst thing is that each of these three points requires mandatory dismantling of the gearbox, and this is already in the category of “serious repairs”, which is not always within the power of an ordinary driver, and it will take much more time than in the case of a rocker or lock transfers.

That's all I wanted to say! I hope I helped solve the problem. If after all the above manipulations and checks you still do not engage reverse gear, seek help from a specialist or go to a service station.

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New Lada: Photo of Lada Granta FL (updated sedan, hatchback, station wagon and liftback)