Why does the Lada Kalina fuel pump not receive power?

The task of the fuel pump is to pump gasoline from the car tank to the engine injection parts - the injectors. By moving fuel, the unit creates the necessary pressure in the fuel line. The failure of this equipment affects the entire machine control system.

Many Lada Kalina car owners face problems with fuel pump malfunction. If the situation is serious, then you should immediately contact a specialized service. But you also need to know what you can do on your own in this case.

About the reasons for the failure of the fuel supply system

As noted, in the Lada Kalina model the fuel pump is equipped with an electric drive. This provides a number of specific and important benefits. Here the priority is simplicity in design and reliability, allowing the device to have an impressive service life. We also note the high safety when the fuel supply system stops functioning when the engine is stopped. In order for the pump to “live for a long time”, it requires high-quality gasoline, which also serves as a coolant for the device.

So, more about the main reasons:

1. Fuel with quality standards that do not meet standards. This leads to gradual clogging of the filter and incorrect operation of the gasoline supply unit.
2. Open circuit in the electrical power supply circuit of the pump. Here the culprit may be not only the fuel pump fuse, which, by the way, should be checked as a priority, but also the fuel pump relay. Also among the reasons may be oxidized contacts of the pump power supply or broken supply wires, which happens much less frequently.

In any case, if the pump does not work, then a thorough diagnosis of the entire fuel supply circuit will be required; you must check the pump fuse, as well as the fuel pump relay.

Messages 7

1 Topic by aleksey30111987 2017-01-14 14:52:31

• aleksey30111987
• New member
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• Registration: 2017-01-14
• Messages: 15 Thanks : 3
• Car: Kalina

Topic: Resolved: Fuel pump relay stopped working

The problem is this: I was recently traveling on business and drove about 100 km, when suddenly the car stalled and stopped starting, I reached under the hood and thought the belt had flown - no, everything was fine, a little later I listened, but the fuel motor was not working. At first I thought it burned out, but how? there were no prerequisites! As a result, I went into the fuses and relays, it turned out the relay was not working, I changed the same thing. I went into the chip, there are 4 wires in it, the thick red one always has voltage, but the thin one only when the ignition is on, I hooked up the control to the thin red and thin gray It turned out that when the ignition is turned on, the control light is constantly on at half power. What's the matter, what are the problems, the pump does not pump!

Added: 2017-01-14 15:52:31

the thick red motor shorted and the thick gray motor works - as I understand it directly

Stable engine operation is ensured by a number of systems and mechanisms. One of such systems, including for the Lada Kalina, is the power supply system. Among the components of this system, the key role is played by the fuel pump, which ensures an uninterrupted supply of fuel to the gasoline injection parts - special nozzles.

Changing the fuel pump relay

In Lada Kalina, this electrical element is located in the cabin, more precisely below the panel and close to the air duct grille. To provide access to the specified relay, you will need to remove the cover of the mounting block. In this case, you will need a small flat-tip screwdriver.

Before directly removing the fuel pump relay, don’t be lazy to check the fuse, which is also located in the block, but near the transmission lever and ashtray. The fuse link jumper must have a complete appearance. If there is a malfunction, then replace the fuse with a new insert with a similar current rating. To remove the element from the mounting socket, use tweezers.

Having made sure that the fuse is intact, but the pump still does not work, we move on to checking the relay. There is a certain nuance here. A faulty relay is dismantled using a socket-type wrench, so we stock it up in advance.

When all the faults present in the pump’s power circuit have been eliminated, we start the motor and verify the functionality of the device. If the fuel pump still does not work, then more in-depth diagnostics of all components of the power system will be required.

Replacing the fuel pump Kalina

Before replacement, read the operating manual to learn the location of the fuel system element, the specifics of the adjacent fuel lines and the types of fasteners. When working, it is important to follow the outlined algorithm so as not to disrupt the functioning of the fuel supply system. Damage to the fuel line or improper assembly of the fuel module can lead to engine damage and even a car fire.

To carry out the work, the car owner will need:

• pliers;
• hammer;
• screwdrivers for flat and Phillips slots.

Sequence of replacing the fuel pump Lada Kalina

Before starting work, you need to “de-energize” the Kalina by disconnecting the battery terminals. Repair procedures should be carried out away from fire and places where sparks could be generated.

1. We dismantle the rear seat and floor trim;
2. Under the seat there is a fuel tank cap secured with 4 “cross” bolts. Unscrew;
3. Now the car owner has access to the top cover of the fuel pump;

4. Now you need to “unhook” all the plugs and fittings from the pump. To remove the power plug, press the latch upward and pull the plug to the side. The power plug itself is located on the left side of the fuel pump cover;
5. To remove the fittings, you must use pliers. The locking clamp is pressed out by hand, after which the fitting itself is removed using pliers. The main thing is not to confuse the fittings: the lock on the top is green, the lock on the bottom is metal;
6. After dismantling the fittings, clean the fuel pump cover as much as possible - dirt will not get into the gas tank;
7. Removing the fuel pump cover retaining ring: take a flat-head screwdriver, place it against the outline of the ring and lightly tap it with a hammer so that the ring moves clockwise. The latch should pop out and the cover will be accessible;
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8. Open the cover and carefully pull the pump up so as not to damage the adjacent elements. Additionally, make sure that no sand gets into the tank;

9. We take the new pump and carefully immerse it in the technological hole. We attach the lid. Next, assembly is carried out in reverse order.

Troubleshooting pumps

Now let's move on to consider the situation when the reason lies directly in the fuel pump itself. Replacing a unit is a drastic measure that can be avoided in almost the vast majority of cases.

Scheme

1. To check the LADA Kalina pump, you will need to dismantle it.
2. Access to the device location is provided through the rear of the cabin. To do this, you will need to remove the rear seat cushion.
3. The pump module is closed with a special cover; when removing it, you will need to remove the fixing fasteners.
4. When the ignition is turned on, the pump may not pump at all or supply fuel intermittently. If this is present, the device requires maintenance or replacement.
5. The further dismantling process involves removing the cover and disconnecting the pipes.
6. Now you can unscrew the locking ring, after which you need to carefully remove the pump from the cavity of the fuel tank.
7. We carefully inspect the dismantled unit for clogging of the filter present in its module, which is made in the form of a mesh. If it is not very clogged, then it can be washed, but when there are breaks and a high degree of contamination, then no alternative replacement is required.

This type of routine maintenance is not covered by the Lada Kalina operational manual. Despite this, the mesh on the pump should be replaced every 50 thousand km of the distance traveled. Such experience has the right to life due to the insufficient quality of domestic fuel.

Determining the need to replace the pump filter component is not difficult. As noted, this is done through visual inspection. Usually the mesh contains a dirty-brown mixture, which includes metal particles and other debris. The bottom of the pump assembly cup is often littered with solid particles of various natures.

Regarding the previously mentioned possibility of washing the mesh, many experts have a negative attitude towards this practice. Compared to the labor costs of dismantling the pump, the cost of the mesh itself is quite insignificant - about 100 rubles. It would be more rational and correct, in our opinion, to replace it, the main thing is to know where it is.

Repair parts

It is worth carrying out independent equipment repairs if you are completely sure that the malfunction lies precisely in it. A large number of plastic elements make the pump very fragile. For this reason, care must be taken when disassembling.

• Using a screwdriver, you need to pry up and remove the drain module of the part.
• The ground wire will be disconnected from the equipment.
• The intermediate wire connector is disconnected (from the inside).
• The pressure regulator is removed.
• The gasoline element module is removed by pressing the plastic retainer.
• The filter mesh is removed from the housing. If it is dirty, it can be cleaned. But it is more advisable to install a new mesh.

Damaged elements must be repaired or replaced with new parts. At the same time, it is advisable to replace the fine fuel filter. It is located near the jack cup in the right rear wheel arch. The equipment is assembled in the reverse order.

If Kalina's fuel pump does not work, the reasons often lie in a malfunction of the part itself. This equipment is inexpensive. It is quite possible to remove the unit and replace it with a working one yourself. It is better to purchase original spare parts.

About work culture and regulations

The fuel system of LADA Kalina (and not only) requires cleanliness of both the gasoline itself and the components involved in its supply to the engine. All dismantled parts of the system must be perfectly cleaned and washed before reinstallation. When replacing the mesh, we also recommend replacing the filter used for fine fuel purification. Where is this filter located? It is located inside the right stern wheel arch near the jack stand cup. According to the regulations, this element requires replacement no less than after 30 thousand kilometers.

What can cause "triple"?

The causes of the described malfunction can be very different.

To reliably install them, you must first find the faulty cylinder. It is recommended to start such a search from the very moment when it was discovered that the check engine light was on. At least, such recommendations are given by the manufacturer who installed an automatic fault warning system on the car.

The search procedure is quite simple. To do this, it is enough to disconnect the power tips from the spark plugs one by one. As a result of this alternate shutdown, it is possible to determine the inoperative cylinder by the sound of the engine. If the sound of the engine has changed, this means that the culprit of the “triple” has been detected.

If the check light on Kalina is on and computer diagnostics of the engine is carried out, the faulty cylinder will be indicated by the computer. At the same time, this diagnostic method can also help to establish the initial causes that led to its malfunction. They could be the following:

• incorrectly set ignition timing;
• presence of air leaks in the vacuum brake booster;
• defective spark plugs;
• breakdown of electrical wiring and capacitor wires;
• presence of air in the exhaust manifold;
• wear or breakage of piston rings;
• burnout of pistons and valves;
• incorrect valve timing;
• cylinder head defects;
• severe wear of the valve stem seals;
• poor carburetor adjustment;
• air filter contamination;
• use of spark plugs incompatible with this engine.

In this case, the main malfunction leading to the fact that one of the cylinders becomes inoperable is considered to be the failure of the spark plugs. A sign of this may be the fact that Kalina’s engine does not warm up well, especially in the morning.

Let's sum it up

The fuel system in LADA Kalina is a capricious mechanism that places increased demands on the quality of gasoline and the timeliness of routine maintenance. The uninterrupted functioning of all components in the system is possible only if these two main conditions are met. Let us remind you that owners should replace fine filters no later than after a mileage interval of 30 thousand km, and you now know the pump grid after every 50 thousandth mark, where each component is located.

Stable operation of the motor is ensured by a number of systems and devices. One of such systems, including for the Lada Kalina, is the power system. Among the components of this set of accounting programs, the main role is played by the gasoline pump, which ensures an uninterrupted supply of fuel to the gasoline injection parts - special nozzles.

Despite its apparent simplicity, in order to understand the purpose of the fuel pump, some explanation is required. There is a fact that, as a rule, this also applies to cars of the Lada Kalina family; the gas tank is located from the engine on the back side of the car. Therefore, effective operation of the gas pump is required to ensure that fuel passes over a significant distance with the required pressure.

The Lada Kalina design features an electronic fuel pump as a more modern and efficient device.

Among the main advantages of a gasoline pump, there are several:

1. ensuring the supply of the required volume of fuel taking into account the needs of the engine;
2. highest reliability and simplicity of design;
3. level of safety, since the pump stops working immediately after stopping the motor.

However, the electronic fuel pump has a number of shortcomings that may affect its operation:

1. noise during operation;
2. need for cooling;
3. demands on fuel quality.

Specifically, the use of bad gasoline and untimely change of fuel filters lead to a decrease in performance or failure of the gasoline pump.

Electronic fuel pump without protective cover

To prevent fuel pump breakdown, it is necessary not only to avoid refueling with bad gasoline (use only proven refueling), but also to change the fuel filter in a timely manner.

Checking the fuel pump Lada Priora

On the Lada Priora, the fuel pump relay and its fuse are located in an additional mounting block near the left foot of the front passenger. The fuse is marked F3 (15A), and the relay is K2.

First of all, we check the fuel pump fuse, and if necessary, replace it with a similar new one. We check the wiring and the fuel pump itself in the same way as on Lada Kalina and Lada Granta cars (see above).

As a reminder, don't forget to change your fuel filter regularly.

The Kalina fuel pump relay is an important element for ensuring stable operation of the car. The internal combustion engine is the main unit for the movement of road transport. With the advent of electric vehicles, the share of cars with internal combustion engines is decreasing, but the vast majority will be provided with cars powered by hydrocarbon raw materials for the coming decades.

For stable operation of the flaming engine of any car, including the Lada Kalina, a stable supply of a sufficient amount of fuel is necessary.

The main element of the fuel system on Kalina is the fuel pump. The fuel tank on the Lada Kalina is located in the rear of the body, therefore, the delivery of gasoline through the supply pipes to the injector sprinklers must be constant and forced.

Lada Kalina won't start.

The initial point of control will be the voltage of the connector, which powers the fuel pump from the on-board power supply of the car. Not only should it be equal to 12 V or even slightly exceed this value, but at the same time, while the machine is operating, the noise of the operating device must be clearly audible.

The disadvantage of this control method is the impossibility of detecting an unreliable contact in the electronic circuit for the connector. No matter what kind of loose connection, in the fuse block, the fuel pump relay, the acquired 12 V at the terminals upstream of the pump will show the same 12 V. Unfortunately, a working pump will receive only a few volts and will not be able to work normally.

Also a malfunction under these circumstances can be a breakdown of the fuel pump relay. This malfunction is easy to diagnose, since special symbols are displayed on the device panel, which allows the driver to see an error when operating this part.

What remains for our client to do? The control relays are located inside the car and, in the event of a malfunction, they highlight themselves with appropriate clicks. It is not difficult to change the fuel pump relay without the help of others; it is enough to recognize the location of its installation by the special symbols printed on it.

Fuel pump parts disassembled

Checking the pressure created consists of monitoring this parameter in the pump pumping mode, when after turning the key for 1.5-2 seconds, it turns on to add fuel to the pipeline system. For Lada Kalina the myth indicator is 0.8-1.2.4 kgf/cm2. If the pressure turns out to be underestimated, then you should look for the cause of this phenomenon, alternately checking each link: filter, mesh, fuel pump. As a result, the part that prevents the rapid build-up of pressure to normal will be replaced.

Pinout BN VAZ 2113, 2114, 2115

— block the headlights; — gear motors for headlight washers*; — fog lights*; — ambient temperature sensor; - sound signals; — engine compartment lighting switch; — electric motor of the engine cooling system fan; — Generator; — low oil level indicator sensor; — washer fluid level sensor; — front brake pad wear sensor; — cable lugs connected to a common windshield washer pump**; — windshield washer pump; — headlight washer pump*; — end of the cable for connecting to the washer pump on VAZ-2113 and VAZ-2114 cars; — low oil pressure indicator sensor; — engine compartment lighting lamp; — a tip for connecting to the wiring of the engine control system; — windshield wiper gear motor; — starter; — a unit connected to the wiring of the ignition system on carburetor cars; — coolant temperature sensor; — reversing light switch; — low brake fluid level indicator sensor; - accumulator battery; — low coolant level indicator sensor; — relay for turning on fog lights; - mounting block; — brake light switch; — socket for a portable lamp; — hydrocorrector scale illumination lamp; — parking brake warning lamp switch; — block for connecting a backlight lamp; — switch for instrument lighting lamps; — Change in understeer; - hazard warning switch; — front seat resistance relay; — ignition switch; — rear fog lamp circuit fuse; — front seat resistance fuse; — lock circuit fuse; — front ashtray lighting lamp; — ignition relay; - Easier; — glove compartment lighting lamp; - glove compartment light switch; — heater fan electric motor; — additional resistance of the heater electric motor; — heater fan switch; - heater switch illumination lamp; — lamp for illuminating the heater levers; — gear motors for front door windows; — front right door power window switch (located in the right door); — gear motors for entrance door locks; — cables for connecting to the front right speaker; — gear motors for locking the rear doors; — cables for connecting to the rear right speaker; — door lock control unit; — wires for connecting to radio equipment; — windshield wiper switch*; — rear window resistance switch; — relay for turning on the rear fog lights; — connection block to the resistance of the right front seat; — rear fog light switch; — resistance switch of the right front seat; — fog light switch*; — switch for external lighting lamps; — left front seat resistance switch; — connection block to the resistance of the left front seat; — cables for connecting to the front left speaker; — left front door power window switch (located in the left door); — front right door power window switch (located in the left door); — cables for connecting to the rear left speaker; — side direction indicators; — light switches on the front door baskets; — Light switches on the rear door pillars; - ceiling; — ceiling for individual interior lighting; — a block for connecting to the electrical wiring of the fuel pump; — trunk light switch; — combination of devices; — Luggage compartment lighting lamp; — display unit of the on-board monitoring system; - on-board computer*; — block for connecting the wiring of the engine control system; — external rear lights; — rear interior lights; — pads for connecting to the rear window resistor; — dish lights; — an additional brake signal located on the spoiler.

Kalina won't start, What to do when Kalina won't start

Return to contents

The fuel pump of the Lada Kalina power accounting program complex is an easily accessible device both for self-diagnosis of any malfunction, and also for independent replacement. An exception is the restoration of a damaged device, since control of its nominal characteristics can only be reliably carried out using the necessary equipment.

It is possible to ensure long-term operation of the installed pump if the fuel tank of the car is free of contamination on the bottom.

It is also important not only to change the filter on time, but also to frequently clean the fuel coarse cleaning screens at the same time.

If you use it for a long time, it will not be necessary for you to change the fuel pump. Fortune!

One of the most important elements of the fuel injection system of a gasoline engine is the electric fuel pump, which is located in the fuel tank of the car. The fuel pump pumps fuel into the system from the gas tank, creating a certain pressure.

Auto repair experts identify the following common fuel system problems that are related to the fuel pump:

Considering that the fuel pump is an electromechanical device, the most common fuel pump malfunctions are related to both the mechanical and electrical parts. Next, we will look at what signs indicate a breakdown of the fuel pump and why the fuel pump stops pumping partially or completely.

Read in this article

Tips for motorists

The electric fuel pump, located in the gas tank of a Lada Kalina passenger car, can be considered the heart of the fuel injection engine power system. It is he who creates the necessary pressure in the ramp, the magnitude of which determines the operation of the electromagnetic injectors. The controller controls turning the fuel pump on and off. When the driver turns the key to the “ignition on” position, voltage is supplied to the fuel pump terminals for 3-5 seconds through the main relay. And as soon as the engine crankshaft begins to rotate, then, based on the signal from the DPKV sensor, the controller turns on the fuel pump relay and the voltage to its terminals goes through the contacts of this relay.

As you know, all electrical circuits in a car’s electrical wiring are protected by fuses, and if the fuel pump does not want to turn on, then they are the first to be checked. You can find a fifteen-amp fuse that protects the fuel pump circuit in the additional mounting block located next to the cigarette lighter. In order to open its cover, you will need a flat-head screwdriver. This block has four fuse slots. If they are in the first, second and third sockets, then you will need to check the middle fuse, since it is the one that protects the fuel pump circuit.

Having found out that this fuse is intact, the next step is to check the fuel pump relay. It is located behind the air duct cover located at the front passenger's feet. To remove it, you will have to unscrew one screw. Next, unscrew the nut securing the L-shaped metal plate and pull it out along with the four relays attached to it. The fuel pump relay is attached to the bottom of the plate, and the middle one of the three that is on the top of the plate is called the main relay. We check the functionality of the relay by replacing it with a known-good relay.

If checking the fuse and relay did not give the desired results, then by applying voltage directly from the battery terminals to the fuel pump terminals (gray wire plus, black wire minus) we check whether the fuel pump will work. If it turns on, then the fault will need to be looked for either in the absence of contact in the wire going to ground, or in a break in the wire going from the fuel pump relay to its block. A break in the gray wire is possible at the feet of the rear passengers, since the harness of 4 wires to the fuel pump block goes under the carpet, in the middle of the cabin.

The engine fuel system is a “blood” network. The main element of this system is the fuel pump, which, like a heart, pumps gasoline from the gas tank to the engine. If for some reason this pump stops working, then it is no longer possible to start the engine. Let's look at the main reasons why the fuel pump on the Lada Kalina/Granta/Priora does not work.

Signs of fuel pump malfunctions

The main symptoms of fuel pump failure, as well as malfunctions in its operation, are:

• the car starts with difficulty, the engine runs unstable, there are dips, jerking when pressing the gas pedal, etc.;
• the pump does not pump after turning on the ignition, does not turn the starter and does not pump the fuel pump, the engine does not start;

There have also been cases when the fuel pump stops pumping while driving. In such a situation, the engine begins to malfunction and stalls immediately after the remaining gasoline in the fuel line is used up. The problem can occur either regularly or periodically.

Fuel pump repair on Kalina

Welcome! Fuel pump - in general, the fuel pump cannot be repaired and is immediately replaced, but in this article we will talk to you not about the fuel pump itself (This is its second name), but about repairing the fuel module, which includes the fuel pump itself, as well as the Fuel Level Sensor and fuel pressure regulator (There are still some parts on the module, but we won’t describe them all; as you read the article, you will come across them anyway, so it just doesn’t make sense to talk about them again).

Note! To repair the fuel module, you need tools, namely: Pliers and a set of screwdrivers, you don’t need anything else, but this is provided that the fuel module itself has already been removed from the car, if you only have to remove it, then these tools are added to a hammer and a drift, which you also need to stock up on (If not, then you can do without it; a screwdriver, by the way, can even replace it)!

Where is the fuel pump located? The fuel module itself is located inside the gas tank; if you remove it and remove the glass from the module at the same time (You will learn in more detail how to do this operation as you read the article, there will be pictures) then you will have access to all the parts of the fuel module (To all the parts include the pump itself, as well as the mesh, fuel pressure regulator, etc.), for clarity, just below we have placed a photo in which the glass has already been removed from the module, and the red arrow indicates the fuel pump itself, which is located inside the housing.

When does a fuel pump need to be repaired? As soon as the car stops driving and the pump begins to make a lot of noise (you will immediately recognize this noise when the engine is running), and the car may still twitch, then this indicates that the pump has become unusable and needs to be replaced (But the fuel filter may also be clogged or the mesh of the fuel module may also be clogged, in this case the car will work identically as if the fuel pump fails), as for the Fuel Level Sensor which is present on the fuel module, and so if it fails, the fuel indicator which is located on the instrument panel will begin to incorrectly show the remaining gasoline in the tank (For example, the indicator needle may fall and show nothing at all), in addition to this, there is also a fuel pressure regulator on the module, so if it fails, the car may also start to drive poorly and start up just as poorly , the next part that is present on the fuel module is a mesh for cleaning the fuel entering the car engine (This mesh is scientifically called a coarse fuel filter), it becomes clogged over time and must be replaced (a new mesh costs a penny) or if you don’t have There are no stores where it is sold or you just feel sorry for the money, then you can still wash it, you won’t wash away all the dirt, but it will be much better, so when it fails, the pump itself has to work for wear and tear (with all its power) and therefore will soon fail behind this mesh, the fuel pump itself will become unusable, the symptoms of a clogged mesh are exactly the same as when the pump malfunctions, that is, it starts to make noise (Because you have to work harder), the car starts to drive poorly, as if it’s stalling (But it’s not tripping, it’s completely different, just twitching you might say), etc.

How to repair a fuel pump on a VAZ 1117-VAZ 1119?

Disassembly: 1) Before starting the repair, you will need to remove it from the car, all this is done in about 10-15 minutes, if you previously removed it, you can do it in 5 minutes, for more details on how to remove the fuel pump from the car, read the article entitled: “Replacing the fuel pump on a car.”

2) Now proceeds to the disassembly itself, first you will need to disconnect the drain pipe from the fuel module with a screwdriver (see photo 1), to do this, pry it up with a screwdriver and it will thereby be disconnected, then grab the body of the fuel module with your hand and move it until it stops up (you don’t need to use too much force), by the way, before moving it up all the way, remove the retaining ring from one of the guides with a screwdriver (the ring is indicated by an arrow in photo 2), as soon as it is removed and the body is directed all the way to the top , disconnect the wire terminal from the pressure regulator (see photo 3) and then, using a screwdriver, also press the latch that secures the wire block (see photo 4) and thereby disconnect the wire block from the intermediate connector.

3) We go a little further and now you will need to disconnect the second block of wires (see photo 1), this block is connected to the fuel pump itself and before pulling it, you will need to press the latch that secures it, followed by two side fastening clamps Unclench the Fuel Level Sensor (see photo 2) and move the sensor to the top, remove it, after which the fuel pressure regulator must be removed, it is secured using a spring clamp which can be removed from the grooves with a screwdriver (see photo 3) and after that the sensor itself can be removed possible (see photo 4).

The fuel pump does not pump: causes and diagnostics

Let's start with the fact that if the gas tank is full, the battery is charged, the spark plugs are dry and there is a spark, the starter turns the engine normally, but the engine does not seize, then you should pay attention to the gas pump. A common problem is that there is no power to the fuel pump after the ignition is turned on. In a similar way, the malfunction manifests itself in motion, when the power to the fuel pump is lost and the engine suddenly stalls.

An equally important point is how much the fuel pump pumps. In other words, the pump may hum and buzz (power is being supplied), but not create the required pressure in the fuel line. The pressure in the fuel system with a working fuel pump must be more than 3 bar (which depends on the specific car model). The indicated pressure is accumulated in the fuel rail and has an indicator of 300 kPa and above.

To check, you need to measure the pressure in the fuel rail with a pressure gauge, taking into account the indicators that are the norm for a specific car model. Using the example of injection VAZs, the pressure when the ignition is turned on is 3 atmospheres, at idle the figure is 2.5 atmospheres, when you press the gas 2.5-3 atmospheres. This method will help you accurately determine:

• malfunction of the fuel pressure regulator in the rail;
• breakdown of the fuel pump or a noticeable decrease in its performance due to wear;
• severe contamination of filters (fuel filter and/or fuel pump mesh);

In the second case, when you press the gas, the pressure does not increase; in the latter case, the pressure gauge needle rises, but very slowly or jerkily.

Prevention of car engine tripping

Prevention of such a phenomenon as engine “triplication” is that the car owner needs to promptly eliminate the most common malfunctions of the engine, as well as other related systems. To do this, it is necessary to strictly adhere to the periodic maintenance schedules established by the manufacturer for the vehicle. At the same time, if you have little experience in owning a car, it is better not to engage in serious technical work yourself, but to entrust their implementation to experienced specialists.

In addition, it makes sense not to delay carrying out prevention at the first deterioration in engine performance, attributing them, for example, to low-quality gasoline. At the same time, all preventive measures should be carried out only in those auto repair shops where experienced craftsmen work. For example, incorrectly set ignition timing can lead to the appearance of “triple”. Unqualified service station employees very often sin with this, especially if the car owner is a novice behind the wheel and has little understanding of the technical side of the matter.

In the same case, when all systems and components of Kalina work correctly, the “triple” effect should not occur. In this case, the service life of the engine should be significantly reduced, since the power unit, in which one of the cylinders is inoperative, may experience increased loads, leading to its accelerated failure.

It is worth mentioning the Traffic Rules, which directly prohibit the operation of a vehicle with a faulty engine. Therefore, it is better not to risk either money or rights, and if a “triple” effect occurs, immediately send the car for repairs.

Problems with cars are always unpleasant, and when the 8-valve engine on a Kalina, which has not yet driven 50,000 kilometers, fails, it is also insulting. But this problem does not appear immediately, but only when the engine warms up a little. Then the “engine malfunction” light starts flashing.

Turning off the ignition and restarting the car immediately solves the problem. Or rather, it stops for a minute, but then the games with nerves begin again.

Other causes of fuel pump malfunctions

Quite often, unprofessional installation of additional electrical equipment or security anti-theft systems leads to the fact that the power to the fuel pump is lost due to mixed up contacts or other connection errors.

Finally, let’s add that the gas pump in the gas tank is immersed in gasoline, in which it is actively cooled. The habit of driving with an empty tank can quickly damage the electric motor of the fuel pump, as it burns out.

What functions does the fuel pump relay perform, signs of breakdown. Where is the fuel pump relay installed, how to properly check the fuel pump relay.

Why does the starter turn normally, but the engine does not catch and does not start? Main causes of malfunction, checking fuel supply and ignition systems. Adviсe.

Diagnose faults that may indicate problems with the fuel pump. Self-check of the device, measuring the pressure in the fuel rail.

The causes of whistling and increased noise during operation of the fuel pump are overheating of the pump. How to diagnose and fix the problem yourself. Tips and tricks.

How to change a fuel pump. Location of the fuel pump, releasing pressure in the system, unscrewing the fuel lines, removing the pump, reassembling.

What to do if the car accelerates worse, does not pick up speed, or has failures during acceleration. Why the engine does not pull, how to find the reason for the decrease in power.

Pinout BN VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099

The fuel pump relay (2) is shown by the arrow.

1 — nozzles; 2 - candles; 3 — ignition module; 4 — diagnostic block; 5 - controller; 6 — connection block to the electrical wiring of the instrument panel; 7 - main relay; 8 - main relay fuse; 9 — electric fan relay; 10 — controller power supply fuse; 11- electric fuel pump relay; 12 — fuel pump power supply circuit fuse; 13 — mass air flow sensor; 14 — throttle position sensor; 15 — coolant temperature sensor; 16 — idle speed regulator; 17 — knock sensor; 18 — crankshaft position sensor; 19 - oxygen sensor; 20- APS control unit; 21 — APS status indicator; 22 — speed sensor; 23 — electric fuel pump with fuel level sensor; 24 — solenoid valve for purge of the adsorber; 25 - lock connected to the ignition system wiring; 26 — instrument panel; 27 — ignition relay; 28 — ignition switch; 29 — mounting block; 30 — electric fan of the cooling system;

A - to terminal “B +” of the generator; B - block connected to block K of the ignition system wiring; C - block connected to block L of the ignition system wiring; D - wire connected to the interior lighting switch; A - wire connected to the black and white wires disconnected from the interior lighting switch; F - to the “+” terminal of the battery; G1, G2 - grounding points; K - block connected to block B of the front wiring; L - block connected to block C of the front wiring.

On “nines” with a mechanical fuel pump, the most common malfunction is wear of the fuel pump diaphragm, which causes gasoline to flow out through the drain hole in the housing during operation. The second reason for the failure of such a fuel pump is wear of the pusher, which transmits force from the camshaft cam to the fuel pump control lever.

How to change the pressure gauge in a compressor

Replacing the pressure gauge on a car compressor will be necessary if it fails. This measuring device can be installed separately from the unit, on a hose, or on the cylinder head.

If the pressure gauge shows incorrect values ​​or does not work at all, you should unscrew it and buy a similar one, with the appropriate thread and scale.

In some cases, choosing the right device can be difficult. The way out of this situation is simple: purchase a pressure gauge for a car compressor and a tee with a thread suitable for it. Attach a pressure gauge with a tee to the end of the hose, as shown in the following photos.

Reasons why the engine may trip

Choosing oil for the Lada Kalina 8 valve engine (poll: which oil is better)

You already know how tripling occurs, but the problem still lies in some kind of malfunction, which causes the cylinder to stop working. Unfortunately, there can be several reasons why an engine is misfiring, which seriously complicates the search.

So, to your attention the most common causes of engine tripping

First of all, let's start with the non-working cylinder:

1. Start the engine and open the hood.
2. Listen to the engine and try to remember it.
3. Next, we take out the high-voltage wires one by one. When the wire is pulled out, the engine operation should change, because the spark plug stops receiving current, therefore the cylinder stops working. If the engine operation has not changed, then this is a bad cylinder. You need to search until you find which cylinder is not working.
4. Now, you need to find out whether a spark is entering the cylinder or not, this will allow you to understand the reason, and also indicate the direction in which you need to move.

Now you need to check the spark plugs, for this

1. Take a spark plug and unscrew the spark plug in the non-working cylinder.
2. Assess the condition of the electrode using the following criteria:

Soot or soot on the spark plug prevents its normal operation, the spark is weak or completely absent. Cleaning the spark plug or completely replacing it will only temporarily solve the problem; you need to look at the root of the problem and continue to look for the reason why the spark plug is in this condition.

Checking the spark plug for a spark

To find out the real reason why the engine is stalling, you need to check the spark. To do this, unscrew the spark plug, then put on the high-voltage wire and place the spark plug with its metal body facing the engine, but the spark plug electrode should not touch the engine. Next, you will need an assistant, he should turn the starter, and in the meantime you watch the spark plug. If a spark does not appear when the starter rotates, move it away from the ground by 1 cm and try again.

A weak spark or its complete absence indicates the following:

1. Problems with high-voltage wires - high resistance or breakage. Check the high-voltage wires with a multimeter; if there is high resistance, replace them.
2. The ignition coil is faulty - check if this is the case and replace it if necessary.
3. The ECU is faulty. Carry out diagnostics and replace if necessary.
4. The DPKV (crankshaft position sensor) has failed. As a rule, with such a breakdown, an error appears that is generated by the on-board computer; you can also find out about it using computer diagnostics. If necessary, replace the DPKV.
5. The timing belt has moved several teeth. Check how the belt is positioned; if its position is broken, remove the belt and adjust the position of the shafts and gears according to the marks.

If there is a spark and the spark plugs are in perfect order, look further for the reasons why the engine is misfiring; possible problems may include: compression problems, faulty rings, clogged injectors, poor valve fit, or the need to adjust the valves.