Lada Kalina jerks when accelerating

Recently, several not very pleasant symptoms have appeared on my Kalina, a list of which I have given below:

The car began to jerk at low speeds. This was especially pronounced when shifting, if the speed was not too low for a particular gear
Idle speed has become a little unstable, but the spread is small: from 800 to 880 rpm
Fuel consumption has increased slightly. If earlier the instantaneous flow rate at idle was 0.8-0.9 l/hour at a temperature of 83 °C, now it has become 0.9-1 l/hour.

In general, I drove with this problem for about a month, and at first I thought that the quality of gasoline played a negative role. But after refueling at another gas station, everything was the same. Of course, all this was not particularly annoying, since the symptoms were barely noticeable, except that twitching in the lower parts sometimes bothered me.

In general, yesterday I finally decided to deal with this problem, and the first thing I decided to check was the throttle position sensor. It seemed to me that he was responsible for all the problems that arose. I have quite a few similar sensors in stock, so I decided to take the latest one from Kalina 11194. I installed it instead of mine, and now for the second day the problem has not appeared.

That is, everything became the same. The revs became more stable, the car stopped jerking, although I deliberately lowered the revs until the car practically refused to drive in a certain gear. As for fuel consumption at idle, it also returned to normal: 0.9-0.8 l/hour.

Lada Kalina 1.6, 8 cells. When driving slowly in courtyards, when police are passing, or on roads with potholes. When you press the gas smoothly, the car moves jerkily and jerks. I washed the throttle body, it became a little better, but not for long. The car again began to move jerkily and jerk even more.

Car jerks when accelerating

Back to the club VAZ / Lada (Lada) Kalina people, such a crap - when moving from 1st to 2nd speed, when I press the gas smoothly, acceleration proceeds normally, but if I press the slipper more, the car starts to twitch and only then accelerates. This recently started happening after a full tank of gas was filled with new gas, so to speak. I've been driving this tank for two weeks now. Could this be due to the gasoline? before everything was normal, viburnum 1.4

neither the spark plugs nor the coils have been changed since the previous owner, as long as they were with him - idk. Well, it's definitely not because of the gasoline?

Possibly condensation. Try to drown it as much as possible and fill it with 95-one, it removes condensate well

and gasoline could also be the culprit.

not long ago there was a dip in the gas, if you suddenly need to pick up speed, the car jerked up to 2.5 revolutions, but then everything became normal, went to the diagnostics, showed that there was a misfire in cylinder 1, the diagnostician said change the coil. The coil broke, replaced it, bought new ones, everything is fine.

To find out exactly where, do you need to do a shorter diagnosis? Well, I'll try to fill it with another gas first. If it doesn't help, you'll have to send it for diagnostics.

yes, start small. Well, look at the spark plugs, there is oil in the wells of 16kL engines

The other day I changed the coil myself, but I didn’t know that it was drizzling. 800 rubles for a coil, although in the store it’s 600 and 150 rubles for work and 500 rubles for diagnostics. Here

Yes, she doesn’t seem to eat butter. I’m telling you, this crap recently began to appear when I filled up a whole tank of 95 gasoline. I went somewhere for a week, everything was fine, and then such failures began

There was a case - here a guy from Kirov asked for help and said he refueled, drove 30 km and started getting stuck and sometimes tripping. We took out the pump, and there was an emulsion at the bottom of the tank, floating in large spots

tough((but what’s interesting is that there are failures precisely when switching to speed 2. When I switch to speed 3 from the second, everything is fine

pull the coils out of the wells and look at the rubber bands (insulators) What year is the car?

The car jerks in first gear or second speed: fault diagnosis

As mentioned above, in such a situation, the first step is to gradually eliminate problems in the power supply system, ignition, as well as failures in the ECM. For example, a common reason when the car jerks at low speeds when engaging first and/or second gear is insufficient fuel/air supply to the engine or impaired mixture formation.

Various ECM sensors (Hall sensor, TPS, mass air flow sensor, etc.) can also malfunction. If everything is fine with the sensors, then you need to check the engine ECU. Quite often, the problem of jerking in 1st-2nd gear is directly related to the ignition. It is necessary to check the condition of the spark plugs and high-voltage wires, distributor and other elements on a particular machine.

As a rule, if the car drives jerkily, in relation to injection cars, specialists conduct comprehensive computer diagnostics of the engine. If such a check does not produce results or the cause is not found, then the vehicle’s transmission deserves special attention.

So, if your car is noticeably jerky in 1st and/or 2nd gear, it is important to understand that the transmission may also be causing the car to jerk when driving. At the same time, it is easier to determine the cause in the case of a manual transmission, while various types of automatic transmissions require more serious checks

Let's start with the manual transmission.

Please note that if an inexperienced driver's car jerks in first gear when starting off, it should be borne in mind that often beginners simply make mistakes when releasing the clutch, while the car itself is working properly

To start without jerking, you need to smoothly release the clutch before the driver feels the grip point (the beginning of the transmission of torque from the engine to the wheels). After the force begins to be transmitted to the wheels and the car begins to move, you need to carefully add gas, dosing the traction with the pedal accelerator.

But jerking is usually caused by problems with the clutch on the manual transmission or its adjustments. For example, a car jerks in first and second when the clutch driven disc is badly worn, the clutch does not “close” completely, and slips. This leads to the car jerking when changing gears.

In this case, jerks most often appear precisely in “low” gears (first, second speed), when the smoothest possible operation of the clutch is needed and at the same time, through the clutch in these gears, a sufficiently large torque is transmitted from the internal combustion engine to the gearbox when accelerating the car.

Now let's move on to automatic transmissions. First of all, you need to take into account that the quality of operation and smoothness of automatic transmission shifts will depend on the type of automatic transmission.

First of all, jerking can occur when driving with robotic gearboxes that have both one and two clutches. The fact is that the clutch of such gearboxes resembles in its design and principle of operation a conventional friction clutch of a manual transmission. Often the solution to the problem is to replace the DSG or AMT clutch, after which it is imperative to adapt the clutch (training, setting the grip point).

Also, in some cases, the culprit that the car jerks when driving in 1-2 gears may be breakdowns and malfunctions in the actuators that are responsible for the operation of the clutch in automated mode.

It should also be noted that the automatic transmission itself can “slip”, and the quality of its operation greatly depends on the level/condition of the transmission oil (ATF fluid). Jerking in automatic transmissions of this type may occur due to insufficient or overfilled oil, the use of a lubricant with unsuitable properties, etc.

Diesel engines

If there are signs of uneven acceleration, the worst failure for diesel engines is turbine failure, since both the part itself and its replacement are expensive. Typically, symptoms of compressor failure are not sudden. And the later they are identified and eliminated, the more expensive the repairs will be. Therefore, it is important to remember that turbocharger defects must be repaired in a timely manner. Main signs of impending failure:

turbine whistle;
blue or black smoke from the chimney;
loss of power during uniform movement or acceleration.

It is also not uncommon for the turbine pressure sensor to fail, which is why air compression may not meet the engine’s needs. This is an inexpensive part that can be replaced using an amateur tool.

More common causes of jerky driving are leaks in the vacuum hoses. These black, inconspicuous tubes have a big impact on the performance of the diesel engine. If damage or ruptures can be detected, restoring the seal yourself will not be difficult.

It can be said that most causes of jerking in both diesel and gasoline cars can be eliminated and even prevented by regular maintenance. Often this is simply the result of dirt or worn parts. Other causes occur less frequently and are best eliminated in specialized workshops.

Car repairs

Useful tips for car repairs

LADA KALINA: JERKING AT THE BEGINNING OF MOVEMENT

At the moment the movement begins, the limiting case of a jerk—failure—most often occurs. The most unpleasant sensations are associated precisely with the delay in the engine’s response to pressing the accelerator pedal. Sometimes the engine even stalls. A jerk occurs at the moment the throttle valve begins to open, when, based on a signal from the throttle position sensor, the ECU determines the moment of transition from idle mode to load mode and must increase the amount of fuel supplied through the injectors. If the pressure in the fuel line is insufficient (even if the injection duration is increased), there is not enough fuel for a smooth start. therefore it is necessary to check the pressure in the rail.

The main indicator of the health of the engine power system is the fuel pressure in the fuel rail.

If the fuel pressure is insufficient, the following may occur:

– unstable engine operation;

– stopping the engine at idle speed;

– reduced crankshaft rotation speed at idle;

– insufficient acceleration of the car (the engine does not develop full power);

– failures in engine operation when the vehicle is moving.

To begin with, we recommend checking the reliability of the electrical contacts in the ECM wiring harness blocks responsible for the fuel supply (fuel pump module, injectors, fuel relay and corresponding fuses).

The fuel pressure in the power system is checked using a professional pressure gauge and a hose with an original fitting for connection to the valve located on the fuel rail.

1. Turn on the ignition and listen: within a few seconds you should hear the sound of the electric fuel pump. If you can't hear it, check the electric fuel pump power supply circuit.

NoteIf you turned on the ignition three times without attempting to start the engine, the electric fuel pump will not turn on again, which is not a sign of a malfunction. It will turn on simultaneously with the starter starting the engine. 3. Unscrew the protective cap of the fitting for monitoring the fuel pressure at the end of the fuel rail

Please note that the cap has an O-ring. If the ring is torn or has lost elasticity, replace it or the entire cap

Note For clarity, the operation is shown with the decorative engine cover removed.

Helpful advice If it is not possible to use a professional pressure gauge, use a regular pressure gauge with a hose and clamp. The pressure gauge must have a measurement scale of no more than 1000 kPa (10 kgf/cm2) and a division value of no more than 20 kPa (0.2 kgf/cm2)

Pay attention to the reliable connection (rolling) of the pressure gauge and hose

4. Using a metal tire valve protective cap, unscrew the valve spool (the same as in the tire)…

Note When turning the spool valve out, a small amount of fuel may leak out, so first place a rag under the fitting.

5. ...and remove it from the fitting.

6. Connect a hose with a pressure gauge to the fitting. Secure the hose to the fitting with a clamp and check the reliability of its fastening. Start the engine and check the pressure using the pressure gauge. It should be 380–400 kPa (3.8–4.0 kgf/cm2).

The following reasons for decreased pressure are possible:

– the fuel pressure regulator is faulty;

– the fine fuel filter or fuel inlet filter is clogged;

7. Stop the engine and reduce the pressure in the power system (see “Reducing fuel pressure in the engine power system”).

8. Disconnect the pressure gauge from the pressure control fitting, screw the spool into the fitting and install the protective cap on the fitting.

Interruptions in engine operation

Diagnostics of the engine condition by the appearance of the spark plugs

During interruptions, the engine idles unevenly, does not develop sufficient power, and consumes gasoline increased. Interruptions are usually explained by a malfunction of the injectors or electric fuel pump, see “Power system”; “Electronic engine control system (fuel injection system)”, spark plugs of one of the cylinders, air leakage into one of the cylinders. It is necessary to find the fault and, if possible, eliminate it.

1. Start the engine and let it idle. Go to the exhaust pipe and listen to the sound of the exhaust. You can bring your hand to the cut of the exhaust pipe - this way the interruptions are felt better. The sound should be even, “soft”, of the same tone. Popping noises from the exhaust pipe at regular intervals indicate that one cylinder is not working due to a failed spark plug, lack of a spark, an injector failure, a strong air leak into one cylinder or a significant decrease in compression in it. Popping noises occur at irregular intervals due to dirty injector nozzles, severe wear or dirty spark plugs. If popping noises occur at irregular intervals, you can try to replace the entire set of spark plugs yourself, regardless of mileage and appearance, but it is better to do this after contacting a car service center to diagnose and repair the engine management system.

2. If the popping sounds are regular, stop the engine and open the hood. Check the condition of the ignition system wiring harness and the fastening of the wire blocks on the ignition coils. If there is damage to the wires, replace the entire ignition system wiring harness.

3. Remove the spark plugs (see “Replacing and servicing spark plugs”).

4. Carefully inspect the spark plugs and compare their appearance with the photographs given in the subsection “Diagnostics of the engine condition by the appearance of the spark plugs.”

5. If all the spark plugs look good...

6. ...check the gap between the spark plug electrodes (with a round feeler gauge only). It should be 1.00–1.13 mm.

7. If the gap differs from the specified one, adjust it by bending the side electrode.

8. Reinstall the spark plugs and coils and connect the wiring harness connectors to them.

9. Disconnect the wiring harness block from the cylinder 1 coil. Start the engine. If engine interruptions do not worsen, replace the spark plug in cylinder 1 with a known good one. Attach the high voltage wire and start the engine. If the interruptions intensify, repeat the procedure sequentially with all cylinders to identify the faulty spark plug.

If, as a result of the measures taken, engine interruptions are not eliminated, check the compression in each of the cylinders (see “Checking compression in the cylinders”). Normal compression is more than 1.0 MPa (10 kgf/cm2), a difference in compression values in the cylinders of more than 0.2 MPa (2 kgf/cm2) indicates the need for engine repair.

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THE VEHICLE MOVES JERKLY

In relation to a car, a jerk is a short-term spontaneous change in the engine crankshaft speed, regardless of the position of the gas pedal. In everyday use, as a rule, there are a series of jerks.

The extreme case of a jerk is a failure - a noticeable delay in the engine's response to pressing the accelerator pedal.

Conventionally, three types of jerks can be distinguished: - at the moment of movement; - during acceleration; - during steady movement, i.e. with the accelerator pedal in constant position.

To determine the causes of jerks when driving a car with an injection engine, special diagnostic equipment is required, so in this case we recommend contacting a car service center that specializes in repairing fuel injection systems. However, as practice shows, in most cases jerking is caused by insufficient fuel pressure in the engine fuel line (rail) or a malfunction of the throttle position sensor. With some skills, you can determine the cause of jerking yourself.

Jerking when the car starts moving

A jerk occurs at the moment the throttle valve begins to open, when, based on a signal from the throttle position sensor, the electronic control unit determines the moment of transition from idle mode to load mode and must increase the amount of fuel supplied through the injectors.

If the pressure in the fuel line is insufficient (even if the injection duration is increased), there is not enough fuel for a smooth start.

Jerking when accelerating a car

The cause of jerking during acceleration may be, as in the previous case, insufficient fuel pressure in the fuel line.

The electronic engine control unit, having received a signal from the throttle position sensor about the intensive opening of the damper at a large angle, strives to maximize the fuel supply, but due to the reduced fuel pressure it is not able to do this.

Jerks during steady vehicle movement

Such jerking is most often caused by a malfunction of the ignition system. Diagnosis and repair are required.

On the way, you can try to do the following yourself: - carefully inspect the engine compartment. Turn off the ignition and check the secure fastening and seating of all wires and connectors at the ignition coil and high-voltage wires.

Start the engine and listen to its operation: the crackling sound when the high voltage breaks down to ground is weak, but distinct. In complete darkness, the spark during breakdown is clearly visible;

— replace spark plugs regardless of their condition and mileage.

Pay attention to the condition of the spark plugs: if it is not up to standard, the engine or its systems may need to be repaired

Additional symptoms confirming the malfunction of this sensor: - uneven operation of the engine at idle;

- reduction in maximum engine power.

Fuel starvation

Jerking during acceleration can be a sign of problems along any part of the entire fuel supply route from the tank to the engine. The internal combustion engine is sensitive to depressurization of the fuel line and problems of fuel leakage from it. Damage to the fuel line can lead not only to the fact that when you sharply press the gas, the car does not react immediately, but even to a fire or explosion. Therefore, a smart first step in diagnosing fuel starvation is to inspect the area under the car for fuel leaks.

The smell of gasoline in the cabin or trunk should also arouse suspicion.

Checking the filter and tank

The fuel filter is responsible for cleaning gasoline before it enters the injection system. It may be clogged with debris, dirt and other particles from the tank or fuel particles. Usually the filter is attached inside the engine compartment on the main line before the mixture formation system. If there is no certainty regarding the date of its last replacement, then a clogged filter as a possible cause of jerks during acceleration should be considered more carefully. To understand whether this is the problem, you need to:

Physically inspect the fuel filter. If it is visually obvious that it is dirty, then its obstruction is likely causing a restriction in the flow of fuel to the engine.
Check for leaks at the joints where the fuel lines are spliced with the filter housing. It is not uncommon for connections to loosen before the system depressurizes.

If these problems are found, the fuel filter should be replaced and the threads on the connections should be tightened.

Then make sure that the leak has stopped and test the engine again. In some cases, the tank ventilation system may become clogged. The problem is invisible when the tank is full, but when it is empty it can manifest itself as failures during acceleration.

Troubleshooting pump problems

The fuel pump in a modern car is most often of a submersible type and runs on an electric drive. Its task is to pump fuel out of the tank and push it through the fuel lines in the desired direction. Opening the throttle valve entails an increase in fuel consumption. Accordingly, the pump in this case increases the pressure to satisfy the engine's gasoline needs.

Problems with the pump can cause jerking when accelerating. As a rule, such symptoms indicate the first signs of wear and tear.

Analyzing and troubleshooting fuel pump problems will require professional diagnostic equipment to scan and interpret error codes. Or you will have to remove the pump and check its operation. If it is suspected of being faulty, a complete replacement is recommended.

Quick diagnostics

So, the car is started, the speed is turned on, the clutch is slowly released, and the engine speed gradually increases. But instead of smoothly starting from a stop and starting to pick up speed, the car begins to jerk - the speed fluctuates, the speed either increases or drops sharply, despite pressing the accelerator pedal.

This can continue until either the twitching goes away on its own and the car begins to confidently gain momentum, or until the engine stalls.

The same situation can be observed when reaching medium modes, that is, the engine reaches a certain speed level, after which twitching begins.

It happens that the car starts to jerk every time you change gears.

It is not necessary that uneven running occurs only under certain conditions.

It also happens that the car jerks spontaneously, without any frequency or conditions.

That is, the car can jerk just once, in any mode, and then move normally for quite a long time.

Or the car was working normally, but suddenly began to twitch sharply, and this trouble no longer goes away.

In general, there are a lot of options, but one fact remains - the car has an uneven ride, and it is advisable to eliminate it as quickly as possible before the problem gets worse.

The first thing to do is determine under what conditions the twitching occurs. The easiest way to do this is while moving.

You should drive onto a flat section of the road where there is no traffic and start testing.

At first, just get moving, then gradually increase the speed, remembering the behavior of the car and watching the dashboard.

And this must be done until the engine reaches high speeds.

Afterwards, you will need to run the test again to make sure that the conditions for the appearance of twitching are determined correctly. And only after that you can start looking for the reason.

What's the result?

As you can see, if a car jerks in first gear or a car jerks in second gear, there can be quite a few reasons. If we talk about the transmission, often with manual transmissions and many types of robotic gearboxes, a common cause is a worn clutch (both as a whole and individual elements) or malfunctions in the actuators responsible for the operation of the clutch on a manual transmission.

We also recommend reading the article about what a manual transmission additive is. From this article you will learn about the purpose and features of various additives for manual transmissions, as well as when to optimally use them. In the case of hydromechanical automatic transmissions, diagnostics are greatly complicated by a large number of sensors and the presence of a torque converter, which is a separate element. For this reason, it is recommended to carry out comprehensive computer diagnostics of the automatic transmission, as well as perform a number of tests and checks, which are carried out by experienced automatic transmission repair specialists at specialized service stations.

Finally, we note that if the owner notices that the car begins to jerk in first gear, the car jerks in second speed, etc., it is better not to delay in determining the cause. On the one hand, quick troubleshooting will allow you to avoid more serious problems and costly breakdowns, but on the other hand, jerking and jerking in the first and second gears can cause accidents and other troubles on the road.

Source

Engine lost power: common causes

Ignition problems. An ignition timing angle that is too early will mean that the fuel-air mixture is prematurely ignited. As a result, the expanding gases counteract the upward piston rather than pushing it down. Under such conditions, engine power will drop noticeably. The same is true for retarded ignition. Late combustion of the fuel-air mixture leads to the fact that the expanded gases “catch up” with the downward piston, useful energy is wasted. It turns out that in both the first and second cases, the driver intensively presses the gas pedal, fuel is consumed, but the full return from the engine does not occur. Also worth mentioning are problems associated with the vacuum and centrifugal ignition timing regulator. The fact is that malfunctions of these solutions affect the ignition timing and its change in relation to different operating conditions of the internal combustion engine. For example, when the speed increases, the regulator shifts the ignition angle. In other words, the degree of opening of the throttle valve and the increasing speed of the crankshaft at the same speed do not allow the engine to develop full power. On injection engines, a loss of power may be observed after flashing or chip tuning of the ECU in order to save fuel.
Cylinder-piston group and timing. As mentioned above, loss of engine power is caused by wear of the CPG, failures in timing settings, or accumulation of carbon deposits in the combustion chamber. As for the gas distribution mechanism, improper valve adjustment, coke and carbon deposits can disrupt the normal operation of the valve mechanism. More precisely, the tightness of the combustion chamber is compromised due to the loose fit (adhesion) of the valves to the seats. The fit may be compromised if the valves are too tight. Engine coking also prevents the valve from closing normally. The fact is that the carbon layer prevents normal adhesion. As a result, some gases break through loosely closed valves, causing overheating, burnout of the valve, valve seats, etc. Coke deposits can additionally smolder under the influence of high temperature, causing the effect of uncontrolled ignition of the mixture, that is, glow ignition. All this leads to malfunctions and a decrease in the power of the power unit. As for the CPG, piston ring wear is a common cause of low cylinder compression. As a result, gases break through into the engine crankcase, that is, the energy of fuel combustion is again consumed with great losses. Determining the cause is not particularly difficult. It is enough to remove the crankcase ventilation hose and evaluate the degree of smoke intensity. The presence of strong smoke that pulsates will indicate problems with the rings.
Filling with fuel-air mixture and mixture composition. Problems with the filling and composition of the fuel charge can reduce engine power even if the engine is in good condition and the ignition is set correctly. The most common cause is a dirty throttle valve or a malfunction of the throttle opening mechanism itself. Let us add that running on a lean mixture will not allow the engine to develop full power. Leaning can be caused by air leaks that occur both at the intake and in the fuel system. Another reason is contamination of the jets on the carburetor or fuel injectors/fuel pump mesh/fuel lines of the injection internal combustion engine. The air intake also deserves special attention. The first step is to check the air filter. Then you should diagnose the fuel system. To begin with, it should be ruled out that the tank is filled with fuel with a low octane number for a particular type of engine. The next step is to check the injectors and their performance, as well as the fuel pump.

Article on the topic: Comparative characteristics of summer tires - what do you need to know when choosing?

Source

Air shortage

The air filter is designed to clean the air from road debris, dust and other components that can damage the engine. This element is capable of accumulating dirt to the point of complete obstruction. A clogged filter is the most underrated reason why your car will drive rough due to inefficient fuel combustion.

Another popular reason for a car's abrupt acceleration is the mass air flow sensor. The component performs the task of measuring the amount of intake air and transmitting data to the on-board computer. A defective or dirty sensor causes a loss of engine power and increased fuel consumption.

Oxygen sensors

Most modern car engines are equipped with oxygen sensors (lambda probes). Their number can reach several pieces, depending on the car model. The presence of such a control loop contributes to the smooth and economical operation of the engine. Typically, you can find two types of such sensors:

Upflow lambda probes. Located inside the exhaust manifold and designed to measure the oxygen level in the vehicle's exhaust gases during the exhaust stroke. Their task is to control incomplete combustion.
Downflow sensors. Located behind the catalytic converter. They transmit to the computer the information necessary to fine-tune the ratio of fuel and air in the mixture.

If one of these sensors fails, the processor that controls the engine receives incorrect information, which can lead to problems with the vehicle's acceleration. In order to diagnose the serviceability of lambda probes, you need professional equipment designed to read and analyze error codes from the on-board computer.

When starting off the car the viburnum twitches

Posted by USA » April 26, 2012, 00:47

Well, if you just open it up, it definitely won’t get any worse

Added after 1 minute 42 seconds:

folk method - experienced drivers also told me at one time

Messages: 29 Registered: March 03, 2011, 00:00 From: Nizhnevartovsk Experience: 3 years Car: VAZ 2110

Rating: 29

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Post by Sanek-86rus » April 26, 2012, 00:49

Messages: 9639 Registered: Jan 21, 2008, 00:00 Awards: 1

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Posted by USA » April 26, 2012, 00:52

The discs won’t do anything for sure... well, if the releaser is too early to change, it costs 200 rubles separately for EMNIP. Well, or drive - it whistles - change it... maybe it will roll around. In general, the philosophy of Rashenkar is - don’t get into the car until the knock comes out on its own

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Post by bluebird1992 » Apr 26, 2012 00:53

USA Try to release the gas, stick the third one in and move off... if you lightly burn the rims, it won’t twitch (it will get used to it). . on the classics it helps a lot - I’ve changed the clutch more than once, I’ve always done it that way

The car jerks while driving - reasons

As a rule, such jerks occur due to a malfunction of the ignition system. However, if a problem occurs on the road, you can try to fix the problem yourself. To do this we do the following:

Turn off the ignition, lift the hood and make sure that all high-voltage wires are securely attached to the coil and spark plugs.
Then start the engine and listen to the engine, listen for any extraneous crackling or clicking noises. The point is to check whether there are any “breakdowns to ground”, that is, whether the spark is going somewhere else other than the spark plug. This is best checked in the dark, then you will not only hear a crash, but also see how it hits, for example, on the body or somewhere else.

If the check does not lead to anything, I recommend unscrewing the spark plugs and inspecting them; perhaps there is carbon on the spark plugs or they simply need to be replaced. If you have a set of new spark plugs, check to see if the engine's performance changes or if the jerking goes away after replacing the spark plugs. If the car jerks at speed even after replacing the spark plugs have disappeared, then the problem was in them, but if not, continue searching or try to reach the nearest service center, they will certainly help you solve your problem.

INTERRUPTIONS IN ENGINE OPERATION

Malfunctions of the Lada Kalina car and their elimination 02.02.201108.02.2016 During interruptions, the engine idles unevenly, does not develop sufficient power, and consumes gasoline increased.

Interruptions, as a rule, are explained by a malfunction of the electric fuel pump nozzles, spark plugs or one of the cylinders, or air leaks into one of the cylinders.

You need to find the problem and, if possible, eliminate it.

The sound should be even, “soft”, of the same tone.

Popping noises from the exhaust pipe at regular intervals indicate that one cylinder is not working due to a failed spark plug, lack of spark, injector failure, strong air leaks into one cylinder, or a significant decrease in compression in it.

Popping noises occur at irregular intervals due to dirty injector nozzles, severe wear or dirty spark plugs.

If popping noises occur at irregular intervals, you can try to replace the entire set of spark plugs yourself, regardless of mileage and appearance, but it is better to do this after contacting a car service center to diagnose and repair the engine management system. 2. If the popping sounds are regular, stop the engine and open the hood. Check the condition of the ignition system wires.

The insulation of high-voltage wires should not be damaged, and the wire tips should not be oxidized. If there is damage to the wires, replace the faulty wire.

USEFUL ADVICE The simplest and at the same time effective way to check high-voltage wires is to check in the dark. Place the car in a dark place, start the engine and open the hood. Inspect the high-voltage wires. If the insulation of the wires is damaged, you will see a characteristic blue-violet sparkle (“northern lights”). In this case, the high-voltage wires must be replaced. 3. Remove the ends of the high-voltage wires.

When removing high voltage wires, never pull on the wire. When removing, pull directly on the tip, turning it from side to side.

4. Turn out the spark plugs with a spark plug wrench.

5. Carefully inspect the candles and compare their appearance with the photographs below. The gap between the spark plug electrodes should be 1.0-1.13 mm. If the candle is black and wet, you can throw it away.

6. If all the spark plugs look good, reinstall them and connect the high-voltage wires. Cylinder operating order: 1-3-4-2; The cylinders are numbered (1, 2, 3, 4) from the engine crankshaft pulley.

7 Take a spare spark plug. Secure it to the engine in any way.

WARNING Do not fix the spark plug on the oil filler neck, oil dipstick, fuel pump, or fuel hoses.

Reliable contact of the body or threaded part of the spark plug with the “ground” is optional, but desirable.

Connect the high-voltage wire from cylinder 1 to the spare spark plug.

Start the engine. If engine interruptions do not worsen, replace the spark plug in cylinder 1 with a good one.

Attach the high voltage wire and start the engine. If the interruptions intensify, repeat procedure step 7 sequentially with all cylinders to identify the faulty spark plug.

USEFUL TIPS If the diagnosis reveals a malfunction of the 3rd cylinder, remove the hose connecting the vacuum brake booster to the engine, turn it off securely and start the engine. If engine interruptions stop, diagnostics and replacement of the vacuum brake booster is required. If engine trouble continues, try spraying a liquid like WD-40 on the outside of the hose. If engine interruptions stop even for a short period of time, try replacing the hose; there may be a rupture in it.

If, as a result of the measures taken, interruptions in engine operation are not eliminated, contact a car service to diagnose the ignition system on a stand or diagnose the engine - measure the compression.

Normal compression is more than 1.1 MPa (11 kgf/cm2), a difference of more than 0.1 MPa (1 kgf/cm2) in one cylinder indicates the need for engine repair.

Poor quality fuel

Poor fuel quality is often the cause of acceleration failures. One of the possible situations that can deteriorate the quality of fuel is the ingress of water into it. If there is water in the fuel, the engine will definitely not work normally. For information: if water gets into aviation fuel, the aircraft engine instantly fails.

Substandard fuel in this area is one of the main causes of accidents in aviation. On earth, this problem costs the car owner less blood. If a car owner has filled the tank with fuel and water, then this fuel must be drained. Otherwise, you will have to change the fuel pump and injectors. If there is no way to drain the fuel, you will have to wait until the fuel is used up.

Self-check of the car, identification of symptoms

To understand the possible cause of the breakdown, you should clearly identify the symptoms, and based on this, draw some conclusions.

When the car is warmed up to operating temperature, when you press the gas pedal, it begins to “stupid” or twitch slightly, and then when you pick up speed, this problem disappears and the car operates normally.

If this problem occurs only during acceleration, and not, for example, when starting from a standstill, then the reasons will be the same. If the car jerks when starting from a standstill, then this may be a problem with the clutch or basket. If vibration is felt while driving and not only during acceleration, this may indicate a failure of the cushions securing the engine.

Dips when pressing the gas pedal Lada Kalina: at idle or during acceleration

Drop in speed and failure of the gas pedal

There are few reasons for the phenomenon of “failure” when pressing the gas pedal. It often appears after unsuccessful engine chip tuning and is accompanied by an increase in fuel consumption, but there are other problems directly with injection. So, let’s look at the main reasons for the “failure” effect:

Injectors. The fuel distribution system directly affects engine performance.

Damage to the injector.
The fuel supply system has failed.
Wear of engine temperature and mixture enrichment sensors.
Errors in the electronic engine control unit.

Identifying and eliminating ECU errors

Spark plug. This is the most common cause of accelerator pedal failure.

Condition of the candles. On the left the mixture is too rich, on the right it is too lean.

These are all the main reasons that can lead to gas pedal failure.

Once the causes are considered, we can consider how to deal with the problem. So, let’s describe step by step what needs to be done when the gas pedal has dips during acceleration:

The first step is to check the spark plugs. The appearance of carbon deposits or spark plugs that are too clean indicate that the mixture is not adjusted correctly. It is worth adjusting the correct amount of fuel mixture.
Ignition wires can also cause the vehicle to malfunction.
A clogged throttle can lead to failures during acceleration.
The condition of the air filter affects the formation of the mixture, so it is worth changing it on time.

Air filter clogged

The fuel pump (main faults), as well as the condition of the fuel filter, can affect injection. Therefore, in case of failures, it is necessary to diagnose them. To diagnose, you need to remove the fuel pump and check its operation, as well as the condition of the mesh filter.

Dirty fuel filter

ECU errors can also lead to accelerator failures. The last reason is clogged injectors. They need to carry out diagnostics, check functionality, and also clean and replace faulty elements.

Thus, the causes of failures during overclocking have been identified and can be eliminated.

At idle, there are fewer reasons for failures, but they will have to be eliminated, since the car simply will not start normally, or stall after starting the engine. So, let's look at the work plan step by step:

Checking the spark plugs. If the element fails, it is necessary to replace it.

Attention! It is recommended to change all four spark plugs to ensure smooth engine operation. Before installation, you should adjust the gap using a feeler gauge, which should be 1 mm for 92 gasoline

Checking and adjusting the spark plug gap using a feeler gauge

We change the fuel filter, it is located under the bottom of the tank, and also carry out diagnostics on the fuel pump. If malfunctions are identified, they should be eliminated.

Clogged filter in the gasoline pump

We check the functionality of the idle speed sensor and cooling temperature. Fuel quality and clogged injectors also affect idle failures. Errors in the ECU can also cause this phenomenon. The performance of the injector directly affects the performance of the engine.

All these reasons can cause dips to appear at idle (more precisely, when switching from idle to driving mode).

The main cause of failures are spark plugs, but they are not the only ones that influence the appearance of this effect. Some car enthusiasts may not be able to cope with the occurrence of such malfunctions on their own, and it is necessary to go to a car service center, where they will carry out high-quality diagnostics and also fix the problem. But it is worth considering that you will have to be generous, since neither computer diagnostics nor repairs will cost a penny.

Filters

Quite often, the reason for a car jerking during acceleration lies in some small reasons. For example, in clogged filters, both fuel and air. Over time, they lose their characteristics due to clogging, which leads to a deterioration in dynamic driving conditions and increases fuel consumption. So, the conclusions are as follows. Problems may be caused by:

improper operation of fuel and air filters;
clogging of injectors in an injection engine running on gasoline;
inadequate supply of diesel fuel in a diesel engine or problems with injectors;
high ambient temperature.

Filters these days are consumables, just like spark plugs; their cost is low and replacement takes little time.

When operating a car, unpleasant problems often occur. One of these is when the car jerks during acceleration. The reasons may be different and we will discuss them below. It is worth remembering that even small twitches indicate some kind of problem and if they are not corrected in time, you can end up with expensive repairs.

FakeHeader

Comments 9

That's putting it mildly)))

The clutch basket is at fault. The hottest place is at the engine + gearbox connection. There are traffic jams, you have to constantly work with the clutch, the ferodo disk rubs against the basket at the moment of stopping and starting to move, not only the contact area and the petals heat up, there is simply an uneven pressure of the ferodo disk to the flywheel, so the car jumps when you start

If this happens during an active start from a standstill, then the strut slowly dies. At least that’s what I have, it was the front right pillar that was sentenced. If it just twitches when starting off (as if you were suddenly dropping the clutch), then you need to look at it. Maybe the damper itself is weird, maybe something else. I had both cases)) According to the first one, I will change the struts in any case, according to the second one, they reset the fuel adjustment, retrained it again, and the twitching disappeared. He described this in his blog.

So I’m also leaning towards the stand. When I slip, my right wheel jumps. I noticed it in the winter when I started to slip, following the tracks of a bulldozer in the snow. The right wheel was jumping like crazy(((Now I finally decided to change the struts.

I don’t know how it is with you. but on my first Kalina it was hard to get going in the back; the car was shaking as if the engine was going to fly out. and then one day the clutch cable broke, and after I changed it, the car stopped jerking, and the clutch began to be depressed like a gas pedal)) try to lubricate the clutch cable, check it when you take it off for biting,

Video review on the question “Why does Kalina trip when starting up”

After writing the article, I decided to also make a video review, where I told the whole story in detail. If my experience was useful to someone, I was happy to help.

Why the engine stall

Lada Kalina

Kalina engine is having problems - most of the drivers of this Russian car have encountered this problem. With all this, it should be noted that a similar problem is not a proprietary problem of this model, because it is quite common in both other Russian cars and foreign cars.

Ignition and injection

During normal operation, the spark plug receives an electrical signal from the distributor or electronic injection system and sends a current pulse to the electrodes in a fraction of a second. Thus, the vapors in the combustion chamber are ignited. However, there are many reasons why a spark plug may stop sparking properly.

There are many methods for detecting and eliminating problems with spark plugs, but it is better to carry out diagnostics from specialists. A novice mechanic can do the following:

Check the wires going to the spark plugs. Sometimes rough running of the engine is caused by damaged, worn or misconnected spark plug wires.
Replace the suspect spark plug. Throughout its entire service life, it must retain its original appearance. If the spark plug is damaged, covered with oil or carbon deposits, you should contact a professional to further diagnose the causes of this condition.

Another factor why the spark plug does not generate a spark may be a malfunction of the ignition coil. This important component increases the vehicle voltage to 30,000 volts, which is the main condition for the formation of a spark. Coil defects cause misfires, which manifest themselves as jerking of the car.

Another common problem in the ignition system is contamination of the injector nozzles. This is not a very serious defect, but it also needs to be eliminated. It is advisable to clean the injectors on a regular basis to avoid costly replacements.

Other reasons

The reasons why a car jerks when accelerating is not always in the engine. This is sometimes related to the clutch function on manual transmission vehicles. For example, the clutch disc may be worn or warped. A faulty release bearing manifests itself in a similar way. Some craftsmen do clutch repairs themselves, but for most drivers such work will require additional knowledge.

Malfunctions of the on-board electronics also manifest themselves in uneven operation of the engine in some modes. Sometimes the engine control unit or other electronic component malfunctions. In most cases, a simple software reboot is sufficient to restore engine control systems to functionality.

Poor voltage on the on-board network is not a very common diagnosis for failures in acceleration, but sometimes this is the reason. The generator's job is to create the necessary voltage while the engine is running. Like any other mechanism, it is subject to wear and tear, which leads to loss of productivity. Voltage drops affect the operation of the fuel pump and ignition system.

Adverse weather conditions can also cause jerking when accelerating. Humidity and temperature changes during the cold season provoke the formation of condensation on contact groups and in the housings of electronic components. Older cars equipped with a mechanical distributor are especially sensitive to weather.

The obvious way to prevent this is to leave the car in drier, warmer areas. If such storage is not possible, then the only way to get rid of condensation is to dry the inside of the distributor cover.

Jerks at low speeds and when starting off Lada Kalina

Many car enthusiasts have come across the concept of Lada Kalina twitching at low speeds. This malfunction can be associated with different car systems, but not every car owner is able to find this malfunction and fix it.

The video shows an example when an 8-valve engine operates “jerkily”, and what to do about it:

Causes of malfunction

General view of the engine

As in any car, in the Lada Kalina, jerking at low speeds is the first sign of a malfunction in one of the systems. Let's look at where the main problems arise:

The fuel system and its components can cause the problem.
The ignition system is associated with the fact that the car jerks at low speeds.
Another reason could be the gearbox.

To more accurately determine the causes of the malfunction, it is worth considering each system and component separately.

Fuel system

The car jerks at low speeds - this may be due to the fact that the engine does not receive enough fuel mixture.

The problem may lie in the fuel system. In this case, you will have to examine several elements that are part of it.

Fuel rail and fuel injectors

Let's look at finding the problem step by step:

The first place to look for a problem is the fuel rail and injectors. It is the poor condition of this unit that can cause the car to jerk when accelerating.
The fuel pump, filter and lines can cause the driver to feel slight jolts at low speeds. For diagnostics, you will need to remove the fuel pump from the gas tank housing. The mesh (strainer) in the fuel pump on a Lada Kalina is clogged
Poor fuel quality is one of the reasons for this effect.

You can diagnose these components and parts yourself or contact a car service center.

Ignition

The ignition system may cause the car to jerk at low speeds

Particular attention should be paid to the ignition switch, in which the contact connections may fail

A red glow plug removed from the engine

The second reason could be the spark plugs. Their serviceability and contamination can lead to the fact that the car will not only twitch at low speeds, but also work unstably in other ranges. To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to choose spark plugs with the required gap and recommended by the manufacturer.

Transmission

The most unpleasant consequence of the effect may be the gearbox. In this case, you will have to remove the gearbox, change the oil in it and add new oil to the level. And also carry out a complete disassembly of it for diagnostics. Thus, the reasons may be failed synchronizers of 1st and 2nd gears, wear of gears or shafts. Another problem can be bearings that are worn out.

Gearbox disassembled

Of course, you should trust the diagnosis of this unit to professionals at a car service center, but if possible, you can try to fix the malfunction on your own. Ultimately, when all else fails, they will always be happy to see you at the car service center.

So, finding the reason for the Lada Kalina jerking at low speeds is quite difficult, because the problem may lie in the main systems, therefore, if the car enthusiast is not confident that he can find and fix the problem, then it is better to immediately contact a car service center.

Conclusion

There are no jerks during acceleration. The dynamics also disappeared, then it appears when there is little gasoline left in the tank, about 5 liters. Then you fill in a new one. You drive a little, the dynamics decrease again. I always fill up at one gas station, mostly.

VAZ Kalina stalls 2-4 seconds after starting – 6 answers
Kalina takes a long time to start - 3 answers
Lada Kalina twitches – 3 answers
Kalina stalls in wet weather - 3 answers
Why does Kalina stall when driving? – 2 answers

Looks like a faulty canister valve. But maybe something else. Is the check light on? diagnostics need to be done.

Without voltage - the valve is closed. When 12 volts are supplied, the valve is open.

I tried to attach a video of checking the valve, but it won’t attach, I don’t know why (before I was always able to attach videos).

“A method for determining the malfunction of the adsorber in VAZ cars. After the engine warms up above a temperature of 60 °C, a significant drop in engine speed at idle begins. In addition, your car may suddenly stall while driving for no specific reason.”

Here is a link to a video on checking the valve

Air leak in the vacuum brake booster

Newer car models are equipped with sealed vacuum brakes. If this integrity is violated, air will leak into the system. It mixes with the fuel mixture, making it leaner. As a result, the mixture does not ignite well when it enters the cylinder. The spark plug becomes wet, a spark does not form and the fuel does not ignite.

This can provoke a slight adjustment of the engine, which will be noticeable in cold and hot conditions, even at idle speed. To make sure that the cause of the malfunction is air leaks, it is necessary to determine where exactly the depressurization occurred in the system.

Elimination methods

To eliminate the tripping effect on a vehicle, you need to have enough time, since it may take a whole day, as well as tools. To work, you will need a set of wrenches, screwdrivers and heads, as well as a multimeter. So, let's look at how to troubleshoot problems that have arisen.

The on-board computer recognizes a poor-quality mixture by the combustion process. But that's not the worst thing. Poor quality gasoline can clog elements throughout the system. The consequence of long-term use of this type of fluid can lead to the valve mechanism, as well as the pistons, burning out. In this case, major repairs become inevitable, since parts wear out at an accelerated rate.

If it is discovered that the gasoline is of poor quality, the motorist will face a whole range of repair operations, namely:

Cleaning the fuel tank and replacing the filter.
Cleaning or changing spark plugs.
Dismantling and checking injectors.
And finally, disassembling the cylinder head.

After cleaning, you need to fill it with high-quality gasoline and drive it. The CHECK icon should turn off on its own when high-quality fuel enters the system.