How to independently replace the timing belt on an 8 valve VAZ-2115 car

The design of the gas distribution mechanism on the VAZ 2115 car is identical to the previous modifications 2114, 2112, 2110. The main purpose of the timing gear is to transmit torque from the crankshaft to the camshafts for the subsequent movement of the car.

During the systematic operation of a technical device, the drive often fails. At high speeds and rpm, the belt breaks into pieces, blocking the operation of the cylinder head and valve mechanism. There are frequent cases of holes in the block and valve bends.

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The process of replacing the drive yourself is not at all complicated, but it requires attentiveness on the part of the technician. Violation of technology is not acceptable. If you encounter any difficulties with repairs, contact a service station specialist for help.

On VAZ 2115 cars a toothed belt is pre-installed. Unlike wedge and poly-wedge, it has a long service life. The cost of the belt is 10% higher than analogues.

Early models of VAZs were equipped with chain drives, but they are not as efficient and have a higher noise level during operation.

Causes of timing belt failure

There are several reasons for this breakdown on the VAZ-2115:

  • natural wear and tear;
  • pollution;
  • ingress of oil and foreign objects;
  • pump failure;
  • changing the position of the tension roller;
  • camshaft or crankshaft jamming.

The role of the timing belt installed on the injector of a VAZ-2115 car is to ensure that the engine valves open at the right time. It synchronizes the camshaft pulley with the crankshaft. Therefore, it is important to change it in time when it wears out so that problems with the engine do not arise.

Adjusting the tension of the generator belt

The belt is installed, but the work is not finished yet. It needs to be tightened and adjusted correctly. In this case, they make two common mistakes - either they tighten the belt until it turns blue, or they don’t tighten it enough. Both one and the other are bad for the engine:

  • if the belt is not tightened enough, it will slip on the generator pulley, and the latter, in turn, will not give the required charge to the battery, as a result of which the battery will discharge and quickly fail;
  • if the belt is overtightened, the load on the bearings of the VAZ-2114 generator will be too high, which will lead to their premature wear or destruction.

This is why it is very important to correctly adjust the belt tension immediately after installation. Initially, we tighten the belt as required by the instructions, after which we start the engine, turn on the maximum electricity consumers on board and listen to the generator (see

“selecting a generator”) - it should not emit an unnecessary hum or squeak, and with a sharp change in engine speed, the belt should not slip on the pulley with a whistle.

If everything is normal, turn off the engine and collect the fender liners and mudguards. The new belt may stretch slightly, so after a few kilometers it is worth checking the belt tension again.

Checking the generator belt tension There is another way to calculate the correct belt tension. It is more accurate in terms of generator output. The method is simple and easy to check, and then anyone who has ever used a multimeter can tighten or loosen the belt.

In this way, you can quickly and without unnecessary hassle replace the generator on a VAZ-2114 and similar VAZ models. Stable tension and good travels to everyone!

Articles

  • 2108-1006120 – video. Attention: parts 2108-1006120 and 2112-1006120 are not interchangeable!
  • 2108-1006129 – pin for the roller;
  • 2108-1006040-10 - belt;
  • 2108-1006149 – seal under the casing;
  • 2108-1006146 – plastic casing.

Analogs of belts

  • GATES 5521 or 5521XS (heavy duty), recommended
  • FINWHALE BD-111
  • BOSCH 1 987 949 559
  • LEMFORDER 58-111-19 or 14458 01
  • CONTITECH ST-527
  • GOOD YEAR G1474 (semicircular tooth) or G1485 (trapezoid tooth)
  • DAYCO 111x190/1

Show all articles

  • HANSE HZ 011 008
  • BRTI 21080-1006040-10
  • TOYOTA 13568-19035
  • RENAULT 7701462019
  • OPEL 636359
  • ROVER GTB1124
  • AYWIPARTS AW2110560
  • PROCODIS FRANCE 05CD27
  • FAI 40305
  • GK 791170
  • MAGNETI MARELLI 340018181434
  • MAPCO 43080
  • HEPU 29-0165
  • OPTIMAL R-1113
  • SCT G124
  • WILMINK WG1151273
  • VEYANCE G1474
  • OPTIBELT ZRK 1123 (3 pcs.)
  • TRISCAN 8645 5521 (2 pcs.) or 8645 5124 (2 pcs.)
  • FLENNOR 4410 (2 pcs.) or F904410 (belt + roller)
  • LYNXauto 111CL19 (1 piece) or PK-1236 (belt + roller)

Analogues of the video

  • GATES T42042 or T42042A (2 pcs.)
  • MAPCO 23081
  • FLENNOR FS99018
  • LUK 531 0671 20
  • OPTIMAL 0N1917

Show all articles

  • BREDA LORETT TDI3009
  • TORQUE 830900AE2
  • ESPRA 2108-1006120/ES0108
  • INA 531075010
  • CORAM C747
  • VPZ-23 830900AE1

Timing and frequency

According to the regulations for carrying out technical work, on the VAZ 2114 the procedure for replacing the timing belt and rollers should be carried out every 120 thousand kilometers. However, in reality this deadline usually comes earlier. Many car enthusiasts advise preparing for replacement after 90 thousand kilometers. Do not forget about regular inspection of the components of the gas distribution system. If you notice the slightest problem, the defective components should be replaced immediately. Failure to promptly replace faulty parasitic rollers will sooner or later lead to a broken timing belt. During a break, desynchronization of the valves and piston occurs, which leads to breakdowns and deformation of these components.

Belt replacement

Required tools:

  • socket wrench 10 or similar size ratchet head;
  • open-end wrench 13;
  • open-end wrench 17;
  • slotted screwdriver (large);
  • special tension wrench for the tensioner pulley;
  • jack, wheel wrench;
  • a little machine oil.

First you need to set the timing gear and engine flywheel in accordance with the existing marks.

1. Place the car on a level surface and engage any gear.

2.Use a jack to lift the front right wheel so that it can rotate.

3.Open the hood, use a 10mm wrench to unscrew the 3 bolts securing the timing belt protective cover.

4.Using a 13 key, loosen the generator belt tensioner and remove it.

5. On the camshaft gear we find a mark in the form of a rectangular protrusion on the edge. It should align with the protrusion on the belt cover mount.

6.If it doesn’t match, put the car in gear and turn the right wheel until the marks match.

7.After this, we find a rubber plug on top of the clutch housing. It is located to the right of the cylinder block. Pry it off with a screwdriver and take it out. Below it is the flywheel crown, which also has a mark that should coincide with the triangular protrusion on the left.

8.If there is no such coincidence, use a 17 wrench to loosen the fastening of the tension roller, and using a tension wrench, turn the roller counterclockwise, loosening the belt.

9. Having removed the upper part of the timing belt from the timing gear, use a 17 mm spanner to turn the crankshaft until the flywheel marks coincide.

10.Fix the flywheel in this position by inserting a screwdriver between its teeth. It’s great if you have an assistant who will additionally hold it.

11. Dismantle the front right wheel, remove the arch protection.

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12.Using a 17 wrench, unscrew the nut securing the generator pulley, making sure that the flywheel does not rotate.

13.Remove the generator pulley and take it out.

14.Now the timing belt can be removed from the crankshaft pulley.

15.Using a 17 wrench, completely unscrew the tension roller fastening and remove it; you can simply loosen it and the belt will come out.

16. Without disturbing the position of the marks, put a new belt on the crankshaft pulley, install the generator drive pulley in place, having first put the belt on it.

17. We put the belt on the timing gear.

18.Install a new tensioner roller, lubricating it on both sides with machine oil (if removed).

19. We tighten the belt by rotating the tension roller with a special wrench (if you don’t have one on hand, you can insert two pins or screws into the grooves and secure them with a screwdriver) counterclockwise. The tension at which one plane of the belt can be rotated 90 degrees horizontally using your fingers is considered normal. In this position, tighten the tension roller mounting bolt.

20. We carry out further installation in the reverse order; if your marks are lost, then you definitely need to set them again.

Installing a new timing belt

  1. We get a new timing kit, in our case from Gates.


Gates timing kit.

  1. For a VAZ 2114 engine with 8 valves, it contains a toothed belt and a tension roller.

  1. If anyone needs it, the article number on the box is as follows.

  1. We check that all marks match. We install the tension roller in place, but do not tighten the nut. Next, install a new timing belt, put it first on the crankshaft sprocket, then on the camshaft sprocket, tension roller and pump. We make sure that the descending branch of the belt is tensioned.
  2. Using a special wrench, turn the tension roller and tighten the timing belt. Tighten the nut.
  3. The correct tension is considered to be one in which, with two fingers, we can turn the timing belt in the longest section by a maximum of 90 degrees.

Timing belt tension method

Hello, dear visitors of Drive! The other day I noticed that the timing belt started clicking. I immediately went into the garage and removed the top half of my sawed-off drive cover. Indeed, the belt turned out to be very loose. Inspection showed that the tension roller had moved.

The belt is clearly loose

The fact is that during the previous adjustment of the belt tension, the pin began to rotate along with the roller nut. Having read horror stories about the fragility of the stud, I decided not to touch it, and, having adjusted the tension, I was afraid to tighten the nut too much. I clearly tightened it weakly, and this is the result. It's good that the belt teeth didn't jump. I realized that it is undesirable to touch this unit again, and in order not to unnecessarily rotate the nut, and with it the stud, I need a reliable way to check and adjust the tension. The method proposed in many manuals for checking belt tension by twisting it 90 degrees with a force of 2 kgf does not provide for measuring this force. It is very difficult to evaluate it subjectively. As a result, the belt is either loose and slams, threatening to jump, or it is overtightened and howls like a shot down Messerschmitt in Soviet films.

How to determine that the belt twisting force is 2 kgf?

I remembered that I read somewhere a long time ago that you can tighten the belt with a household dynamometer using a special key. I bought a key on the market for 50 rubles, but it turned out to be impossible to work with it. I had to bend it into an “G” shape, screw the sector in place and make recesses for the dynamometer hook. The length of the arm from the key pins to the point of application of the torque force is 80 mm.

Special key for adjusting the timing belt tension. The distance from the pins to the groove for the dynamometer hook is 80 mm. As it turned out later, the key can be used without an additional sector

And then everything is simple. We put the x17 key on the driven gear nut and, lightly tapping it with your hand, select the slack in the drive belt branch. Next, we insert a special key into the holes of the roller axis, engage the key rod with a dynamometer and create a force of 2.5...3.0 kgf. Holding the special wrench by the sector, tighten the roller nut. The main thing here is not to overdo it and not tighten the nut with a torque of more than 4.2 kgcm, otherwise the stud may bend and the belt will subsequently slip.

Before adjustment, it is necessary to select the slack of the pulling belt branch

The force on the dynamometer should be 2.5…3.0 kgf

Having removed the dynamometer and holding the key by the sector, tighten the roller nut

If you don't have a torque wrench, you can use the same dynamometer to control the force. I did just that, only I had to put a pipe on the key, otherwise the dynamometer scale was missing. There are no photos of this action, because there were not enough hands to hold the key with the pipe, the dynamometer and the camera. I checked the quality of tension with the engine running: when revving, the radial runout of the pulling branch of the belt was 10...12 mm, which corresponds to the norm. Yes, I forgot: before adjusting, I turned the loosened pin with pliers and a rag wrapped around the thread by almost 2 turns and tightened it; It's holding up for now. Goodbye, peace and goodness to everyone!

How to replace the tension roller on a VAZ 2113-VAZ 2115?

Removal: 1) At the beginning of the operation, install the entire timing mechanism according to the marks, detailed information in details and pictures on how to do this is explained in the article called “Setting the valve timing according to marks” so go to this article and do everything as described in it , by the way, just above we indicated in this article about the cover that will need to be removed in order to get to the timing mechanism, so read about how to remove this cover in the same article to which the link is given in this paragraph.

2) Go ahead and move on to point 2, now you will need to remove the tension roller itself from the car, but before removing it, remove the timing belt from the camshaft and from the tension roller itself, to do this, slightly loosen the nut that secures this roller (This nut in the photo above is indicated by a blue arrow, by the way, we’ll run straight ahead behind it, there will also be a washer located behind this nut, so don’t lose it when you completely unscrew the nut) and turn the roller by hand so that the belt loosens (the roller itself is made in the form of an oval, that’s why he regulates the belt tension, that is, at some point he strongly pulls the belt, and at some point he doesn’t pull it at all), after which remove the belt from the camshaft as shown in the photo below (Just do everything carefully), and well also remove it from the roller itself and let it hang (To completely remove the belt, you need to unscrew the bolt that secures the generator drive pulley, you also need to remove the belt itself from the generator, in general there are a lot of brands and so as not to completely remove it, just like we already indicated a little higher, remove it from the camshaft pulley, from the tension roller and let it hang from you).

3) Well, at the end of the operation, when the belt is no longer in the way, completely unscrew the nut that secures the tension roller, remove the nut and the washer located behind it, and then remove the roller itself along the shaft as shown in the photo below, after the roller will be removed, check its bearing, to do this, grab the central part of the roller with your hand and rotate the outer part of the roller, it should not jam and should spin normally, there should be no play, and grease should not leak from the bearing (B In this case, the roller will be contaminated with grease).

Note! When the roller is removed, a spacer ring will be installed behind it, which we also recommend that you remove and check for defects. If it is in good condition, that is, not crimped or cracked, then you can not replace this ring with a new one and install it on your place again, by the way, due to this ring, as you already understood, the fact how the tension roller will stand depends, for example, if the ring is installed large, then the roller will come out a little and the belt will not stand straight, but at an angle, so if The belt doesn’t eat you up, and if it doesn’t fly off while driving, then you don’t even have to touch this roller, since it does its job, as they say, with a bang!

Installation: The new roller is installed in its place in the same way as it was removed, but only the entire operation is performed in the reverse order of removal, in addition, the roller must also be installed in such a way that the two holes that are on it (see photo below) are directed not inwards, but outwards, by the way, if you look closely at the tension roller which is shown in the photo below, you can even notice with the naked eye that it is covered in lubricant, such a roller needs to be replaced and cannot be reused, because there is a possibility that it will soon time, the bearing will jam, but a jammed tension roller will not lead to good things (Either the timing belt will fly off in this case, or it will break), after you install the new roller and secure it with a nut, be sure to put on the timing belt and adjust it, in more detail For information on how to do this, read the article: “Replacing the timing belt,” point 1.

Additional video clip: We have attached a very interesting and visual video clip for you just below, so that you can watch it and see in more detail how the process of replacing this tension roller is carried out, so watch this video clip and delve into it.

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    Signs of a faulty timing belt and their causes

    The main signs that the timing belt will soon fail are:

    • cracks on the outer surface;
    • stratification of the working fluid;
    • lack of teeth on the inner surface of the belt;
    • excessive stretching.

    Reasons for this may include:

    • long service life;
    • contact with process fluids (oil, fuel, coolant) on the belt;
    • violation of the geometry (deformation) of the teeth of the crankshaft or camshaft gears;
    • liquid pump bearing failure;
    • manufacturing defect.

    Timing belt on a VAZ 2115 car

    The belt drive on the VAZ 2115 is identical in size to the VAZ 2110 - 2114. Technical characteristics of the drive: length 1306 x number of teeth 116 x width 9.5 mm.

    Name/articlePrice in rubles
    Original
    VAZ-2112 / 2110 engine 16 valves, 2112-1006040-83From 1600
    VAZ 21120 (2110)-1006040-00From 1600
    VAZ 2112 (2110)-1006040 (16 valves)From 1600
    GATES K015644XSFrom 2000
    GATES K015536XS (16 valves)From 2000
    GATES K055781XS, K015587, K015564From 2000
    Analogs
    BOSCH 2112-1006040From 1200
    INA 530055410From 1200
    CONTITECH CT996From 1200
    GATES 5539From 1200
    BOSCH 1987948286 (16 valves)From 1300
    BOSCH 1987946329From 1300
    CONTITECH CT527K2From 1800
    CONTITECH CT1137K1From 1800
    LYNXauto 137FL22 (16 valves)From 1500
    Hola TH1372 (16 valves)From 1500
    BOSCH 198798527 (tension rollers) for VAZ 8 and 16 valvesFrom 450

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    *check prices with an authorized dealer at the time of purchasing parts.

    Before purchasing components, check the compatibility of the part with your technical device. Check the article numbers with the data specified in the operating instructions.

    When replacing parts, do not forget to place marks on the crankshaft and camshaft. Many car enthusiasts neglect the rule, as a result of which the engine does not start, operates unstably, and the ignition timing shifts.

    Which manufacturer is better: domestic or foreign? Russian analogues are not inferior in quality to imported ones. Whether it’s worth overpaying for “delivery” - decide individually, but you need to listen to the opinion of experts.

    Causes of timing belt wear on VAZ 2115

    • Duration of vehicle operation without intermediate prevention and diagnostics;
    • Installation of non-original parts, poor workmanship;
    • Mismatch in length, width, number of teeth;
    • Aggressive driving style, speed limits;
    • High, low temperature conditions, climatic features of the region where the technical product is used.

    What determines the durability of a timing belt?

    The gas distribution system is very sensitive to the synchronization of phases with the strokes of the pistons. The belt plays a key role in this process.

    There are a number of factors that reduce the life of the belt and other timing parts:

    • Excessive tension. Leads to rapid stretching of the belt, increased wear of the roller, misalignment of the stud, timing drive bearings, and pump.
    • Insufficient tension. Even slight slippage accelerates belt wear and causes engine malfunction.
    • When replacing the belt, the tension roller is left with the old one. This may be justified if the timing belt is damaged prematurely or if oil, antifreeze or other liquid has entered. In other cases, this is due to the risk of failure of the worn-out roller when the belt is working and the need for their emergency replacement.
    • Intensive use of cars in urban mode or in regions with hot climates. High temperatures lead to premature drying and cracking of the belt. The recommended mileage interval between replacements, under such conditions, is reduced to 30 thousand km.
    • Quality of belt and roller material. Counterfeits have a shorter lifespan than the originals.
    • Timing casing seal failure. The ingress of dust, dirt, moisture, and oil shortens the service life of not only the belt, but also other parts of the gas distribution mechanism.
    • Repair errors. Sometimes, due to improper installation or adjustment, the belt rubs against some parts of the engine compartment. This leads to rapid wear and failure.

    Any deviations in the properties of the PMG belt from the norm negatively affect the operation of the engine. Therefore, periodic condition monitoring, timely scheduled replacements of all required parts - belt, roller and pump - will help minimize many problems with the engine.

    How to determine when it's time to change the timing belt

    The most prudent thing to do would be to install a new spare part on your VAZ-2115 before the belt breaks. The following signs may indicate that urgent replacement is necessary:

    • hum and extraneous noise during operation of the power unit;
    • mileage on one belt is over 60 thousand kilometers;
    • oil getting into the timing belt.

    In a situation with a belt, it is best to spend money on a new spare part and replace it several times than to pay later for a major engine overhaul. Manufacturers often assure that you can drive up to 100 thousand kilometers on one belt on a VAZ-2115; in fact, it is better to change it every 60 or a little earlier.

    Check the belt tension regularly; if it sag or distributes the load unevenly, this component may soon need to be replaced. Remember that in this part of the timing belt there is no such thing as self-adjustment during operation. Uneven tension will inevitably lead to breakage. This part of the gas distribution mechanism must be replaced immediately after the first time it is tightened.

    Be sure to monitor the battery and ignition system of your VAZ-2115, since starting the engine “from the pusher” has a detrimental effect on the condition of the timing belt. The fact is that with this type of launch, the shafts begin to move with a strong jerk, which stretches the belt and leads to a decrease in its service life.

    When is replacement necessary and what is needed for this?

    During the depreciation period, the timing belt begins to peel, tear or slip. If a breakdown occurs while the engine is running, it stalls and becomes impossible to start. When operating a VAZ 2114 with an engine equipped with an injection device for supplying fuel, an indicator on the instrument panel will light up, notifying you of a phase sensor error.

    If the car is equipped with a 1.5 liter, 8-valve power unit, then the repair itself will only require the purchase and replacement of a belt. If a 1.3 liter engine is installed, this breakdown will lead to damage to the entire gas distribution mechanism. Major renovations will be needed. The timing belt replacement on a VAZ should take place after 45 thousand km of vehicle operation. Constant monitoring of the mechanism is necessary for the purpose of prevention. The sequence of actions is as follows.

    1. Purchase and replace the tension roller.
    2. Eliminate possible play in the pump.
    3. Lubricate the roller mechanism.

    https://youtube.com/watch?v=OT_YOtxXIoM

    If you have simple plumbing tools, replacing the timing belt is possible at home. List of tools needed to repair the unit in question.

    1. Wrenches in sizes 10, 13, 17,19;
    2. Socket wrench with pipe.

    We change the belt ourselves (on the 8 valve model)

    Replacing the VAZ 2114 timing belt is strictly regulated in the car's operating instructions. It is recommended to change this part after 30-45 km. But you can’t rely only on recommendations; over time, without running the required kilometers, it slips off the gears, eats, bursts, and may even rupture.

    For a car with a 1.5-liter 8-valve engine installed on it, a belt break will not have serious consequences: the car will simply stop and will not start. And in a 1.3 liter engine, the valves may become damaged, which will lead to breakdown of the entire engine. If an injector is installed on the VAZ2114, then when the belt slips, eats or breaks, the dashboard will display: “headlight sensor error.” Solve the question after how many km. This part should be changed after a visual inspection and a replacement should be made if it is in poor condition. Which strap is better to choose is written in the manual for the VAZ 2114.

    Required Tools

    To carry out the replacement yourself, you need to prepare new spare parts and tools:

    • a set of keys;
    • new timing belt;
    • new tension roller.

      New consumables for installation

    Stages of work

    The DIY replacement sequence consists of the following steps:

    1. The car must be set to the handbrake.
    2. Set to 4th or 5th gear.
    3. After unscrewing the three bolts, remove the cover that protects the camshaft drive.
    4. Next, you need to loosen the generator drive belt and remove it from the crankshaft along with the pulley, leaving the bolt that holds it in place.
    5. Now the car should be put into neutral gear.
    6. The next step is to take care of the marks. To do this, rotate the crankshaft in a clockwise direction, observing the marks and the flywheel. The shaft should be rotated until the mark is parallel to the middle division of the scale.
    7. After making sure that the mark on the pulley is opposite the mark on the protective cover, you need to slightly loosen the fastening nut on the tension roller. If necessary, change the tension roller.
    8. Using a roller, you need to loosen the tension of the strap to remove it.
    9. Next, you need to install a new product on the crankshaft timing pulley.
    10. Then you need to pull the leading branch of the product onto the camshaft pulley so that it does not sag.
    11. Then turn the crankshaft 1.5-2 turns and set the marks. If the marks do not match, the belt should be removed and the installation procedure repeated again.
    12. After setting the marks, you need to unscrew the bolt on the crankshaft and put the generator pulley in place, securing it with the bolt.
    13. By turning the tension roller counterclockwise, it is necessary to adjust the timing belt tension and put on the alternator belt.

      Nut for loosening and tightening

    14. After completing all the work, you need to start the engine and determine by the sound whether it is necessary to adjust the belt tension.

    Why you should change the timing belt yourself: you will save time and money, you will know what to do if it slips or eats.

    Belt tension on 8-valve VAZ engines


    Before tensioning the timing belt on the VAZ, the following preparatory work should be performed:
    After this, the drive marks should be checked. One of them, located on the crankshaft pulley, must coincide with the installation tab of the rear cover. At the same time, check the mark on the flywheel. It should be flush with the alignment mark on the block boss.

    IMPORTANT! In reality, it is not always possible to achieve an exact match of marks. Therefore, the mechanism is adjusted with an error of +/- 1-2 mm. This does not have a noticeable effect on the driving performance of the car.


    If the marks match, the question of how to tighten the timing belt can be considered resolved. Without removing the belt, it is necessary to move the weakened tension roller to the right so that the necessary tension occurs. After this, the roller is tightened tightly. To adjust the roller, a special “horned” key is used. If it is not available, you can use two Phillips screwdrivers, which are inserted into special holes on the roller.

    If the marks do not match, the timing belt on the VAZ-2109 must be removed from the pulleys. After this, the pulleys themselves are individually set according to the marks. It is better to start reinstalling the belt from the rear branch. After installing it, the roller is tightened.

    IMPORTANT! When installing the timing belt on a VAZ-2114 and other front-wheel drive models, the pulleys located according to the marks can shift by 1-2 teeth. If this happens, the marks should be set with an error to the left, which allows you to compensate for the offset. After installing the belt, the pulleys themselves will move into the required position.

    It is necessary to finish tensioning and fixing the belt, and then manually turn the engine 2-3 turns by the crankshaft pulley. To do this, it is convenient to use a “19” head with an extension. The gearbox must be in neutral. If after turning the marks have not moved relative to each other, the procedure can be considered completed. Assembly is carried out in reverse order. » alt=»»> The question of how to check the consistency of the tension should be answered. To do this, hold the strap between your thumb and index finger and turn it 90°. The technician must be able to do this, otherwise the belt is considered over-tensioned.

    Timing roller location

    Before you begin diagnosing or replacing the timing belt and rollers on a VAZ 2115 with 8 valves, you need to determine where the system itself is located. You can find it on the left side of the engine if you stand in front of the hood. It is located under a protective cover that prevents debris and dust from entering the system. For visual diagnostics, simply unscrew a couple of bolts and remove the upper part of the casing. However, if you are planning a more serious operation, such as replacing a belt or rollers, this will not be enough.

    VAZ 2115 and VAZ 2114: differences in replacing timing rollers

    The design of the timing system is identical on all cars of the Lada Samara family. This applies to both models of the first (VAZ 2108 - VAZ 21099) and second generation (VAZ 2113 - VAZ 2115). The only relevant difference is the width of the crankshaft pulley and the timing belt itself. On second generation models, they are much narrower than on older ones. Because of this, separated timing parts are not interchangeable for different generations of cars. Therefore, before purchasing parts, make sure that they will fit your specific car model.

    Why change the belt?

    In the list of routine maintenance for the VAZ 2114, the manufacturer provides for replacing the timing belt every 60-75 thousand kilometers. However, given the quality of our spare parts, experienced car enthusiasts recommend replacing it after no more than 30-40 thousand km.

    The belt should be visually inspected for visible mechanical damage at least once a month. If the slightest problem is detected, it must be replaced immediately.

    If this is not done, the tension pulley may fail, as well as the water pump. In addition, there are cases when parts of the belt wrap around the generator pulley, which leads to blocking of its shaft.

    But there is also good news. In VAZ 2114 cars with 8-valve engines of 1.5 and 1.6 liters, a broken belt does not threaten bending of the valves and damage to the cylinder head, which cannot be said about sixteen-valve engines, where a similar problem occurs in 90% of cases.

    Belt tension on 16-valve VAZ engines

    Tensioning the timing belt on Priora and other cars equipped with 16-valve engines is generally done in the same way.

    However, there are slight differences. Thus, the gas distribution mechanism cover of these engines is mounted on 6, and not on 3 bolts, as in the previous case.

    In addition, the timing belt on VAZ-2112 power units (16 valves) is tensioned using two rollers. One of them is movable, used for tension. The second one is the support one. » alt=»»> When tensioning the belt of a “Prior” motor or motor 2112, special care must be taken. After putting it on and tightening it, you must definitely try to crank the engine by hand.

    If the crankshaft cannot be turned, you should once again check that the marks are installed correctly. On these engines, an error almost always leads to damage to the valves and piston group.

    After replacing the timing belt, it should be properly tensioned. Let's talk about this...

    Removing the old timing belt

    Work order

    1. Place the machine on a horizontally level area and secure it with the parking brake.

    2.In the engine compartment, it is necessary to remove the protective plastic timing cover. To do this, unscrew the 3 bolts securing it (10 wrench).

    3.Using a wheel wrench, slightly unscrew the bolts securing the front right wheel disk.

    4.Raise the car body near the right front wheel with a jack. Completely unscrew the bolts securing the disc and remove the wheel.

    5. Unscrew the two bolts securing the protective casing (engine protection) in the area of ​​the right front wheel.

    6.Unfold the protective cover.

    7. We loosen the tension of the generator belt by unscrewing the tensioner nuts (wrenches 10 and 13).

    8.Move the generator towards the crankshaft pulley.

    9. Dismantle the alternator belt.

    10.Now you need to remove the crankshaft pulley. It is secured with a 19mm bolt. Very often, unscrewing it is quite problematic, since the pulley itself must be fixed. In carburetor engines it has holes located around the circumference. Here it is easier to insert a screwdriver or key into one of the holes and thus immobilize it. There are no such holes in injection engines, so you can fix the crankshaft either by immobilizing the flywheel, inserting a screwdriver between its teeth and the clutch housing, or by resting the key (curved end) on the right tie rod, as shown in the photo, and crank the crankshaft using the starter .

    11.Unscrew the bolt, remove the generator drive pulley, screw the bolt back in.

    12.Remove the timing belt.

    13. Loosen the tensioner roller nut (key 13).

    14. We dismantle the tensioner pulley and install a new one in its place without tightening the nut that secures it.

    15.Now you need to align the camshaft and crankshaft to the marks. To do this, take a 17mm wrench, place it on the camshaft gear fixing bolt and rotate it until the mark on it coincides with the protrusion on the inner protective (metal) belt cover. Next, using the same key, placed over the crankshaft pulley mounting bolt, we rotate the crankshaft until the marks on the timing gear (drilled funnel) and on the engine housing (cast protrusion) match.

    16. Additionally, it would not hurt to make sure that the position of the flywheel is consistent. The mark on it should coincide with the notch on the clutch housing.

    17.If everything is in order, proceed to installation.

    Instructions for replacing the VAZ 2114 timing belt

    We unscrew and remove the cover (casing) of the timing belt; if I’m not mistaken, it is secured with three ten-key bolts.

    We loosen the generator belt and remove it from the shaft together with the pulley and damper.

    We set the top dead center. To do this, turn the engine as it rotates. We align the marks on the camshaft gear with the mark on its rear cover. In addition, at the same time you can replace the camshaft oil seal if there is an oil leak there.

    Also, the mark on the crankshaft pulley must match the mark on the cover. We check another mark on the flywheel, it should also match. To do this, pull out the rubber plug on the clutch housing housing.

    After this, we release the tension roller; it has an eccentric (with an offset center), so there is no need to unscrew it completely; we remove the belt.

    If the roller is noisy or has a lot of play, it also needs to be replaced, especially if you have never changed it.

    Attention! When installing a new belt, under no circumstances should you turn the engine or displace the marks previously installed. We put on a new belt, tighten it using a roller while twisting it

    We turn the engine of your “iron horse” a couple of revolutions and check the belt tension

    We put on a new belt and tighten it using a roller while twisting it. We turn the engine of your “iron horse” a couple of revolutions and check the belt tension.

    If everything is fine, put on the damper together with the generator belt and tighten it.

    Close the gas distribution mechanism cover. We check our work, if you did everything correctly, start the engine, it should start without any problems.

    With this all our work is completed, now you are probably convinced that you can change the belt yourself and pay only for spare parts.

    Recommendation: When replacing the tension roller without removing the timing belt, there is a risk of the belt jumping over the pulley teeth, which will lead to a shift in valve timing. Therefore, before loosening the belt tension, align the mark on the camshaft pulley with the protrusion of the rear belt cover (see “Timing Belt - Replacement”). After installing the roller, the mark should not move.

    2. Loosen the nut securing the tension roller (see “Timing belt - checking the condition and adjusting the tension”) and unscrew it completely.

    3. Remove the roller from the stud, keeping the belt taut.

    Warning! There is a spacer bushing installed on the tension roller mounting stud; do not lose it.

    4. Install a new roller on the stud and secure it with a nut and washer, preventing the belt tension from weakening.

    6. Install the front timing belt cover.

    The timing belt of the VAZ 2114 is a belt of a ring structure made of reinforced rubber. Its inner side has a toothed structure corresponding to the teeth on the crankshaft pulley and timing gear.

    The function of the timing belt is to transmit torque from the crankshaft to the engine camshaft with the speed reduced by half. In addition, the belt also drives the water pump (pump), which ensures the operation of the cooling system.

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