Which cylinder is the ignition of the VAZ 2121 set to?

It is clear to anyone, not even a car owner, that without the ignition the car will not start or drive (criminal options are not considered). Depending on the car manufacturer, repairs or replacement of parts occur at a car service center or independently. Installing the ignition on a VAZ 21213 NIVA carburetor is one of those processes that the owner can carry out himself. This approach will save money and give you personal experience in repairs.

Setting the ignition timing

To check the ignition timing, there are three marks 1, 2 and 3 (Fig. 7-19) on the timing cover and mark 4 on the crankshaft pulley, corresponding to the TDC. piston in the first and fourth cylinders when they coincide with mark 3 on the cover.

Rice. 7-19. Location of marks for ignition installation:

1 — ignition timing mark by 10°; 2 — ignition timing mark by 5°; 3 — ignition timing mark at 0°; 4 — mark v.m.t. on the crankshaft pulley

You can check and set the ignition timing using a strobe in the following order:

set the eccentric octane corrector of the ignition distributor to the zero position (if the engine has a P-125 V ignition distributor),
connect the “+” clamp of the strobe clamp to the “+B” terminal of the ignition coil, and the “ground” clamp to the “-” terminal of the battery;
insert an adapter for connecting a stroboscopic lamp between the spark plug wire of the first cylinder and the spark plug and mark mark 4 on the crankshaft pulley with chalk for greater visibility;
start the engine, directing the flashing strobe light to the mark on the pulley; If the ignition timing is set correctly, when the engine is idling, mark 4 visible on the pulley should be opposite mark 2 on the timing cover.

To adjust the ignition timing, stop the engine, loosen the distributor mounting nut and turn it to the required angle. To increase the ignition timing, the distributor housing should be turned counterclockwise, and to decrease it, clockwise. Then check the ignition timing again.

If you have a diagnostic stand with an oscilloscope, then with its help you can also easily check the ignition timing setting, proceeding as described in the instructions for the stand.

Reinstall the ignition distributor removed from the engine in the following order:

remove the cover from the distributor, check and, if necessary, adjust the gap between the breaker contacts;
turn the crankshaft until the compression stroke begins in the first cylinder, and then, continuing to turn the crankshaft, align mark 4 with mark 2;
turn the rotor to a position in which its outer contact is directed towards the contact of the first cylinder on the distributor cap;
while holding the distributor shaft from turning, insert it into the socket on the cylinder block so that the center line passing through the spring latches is approximately parallel to the center line of the engine;
secure the distributor to the cylinder block, install the cover, connect the wires, check and adjust the ignition setting.

Source

Useful video

The most correct method (not the “poke method”). Remove the valve cover and turn the crankshaft until the mark on the camshaft coincides with the casting at the top (mark on the inside of the sprocket). Expose

the mark on the crankshaft is 9 degrees earlier than the long mark (TDC).
The nearest short mark is 5g, the second is 10g. That is, the mark on the pulley will be almost on the farthest short mark, slightly shifted towards the first short mark. Place the distributor in place so that the slider is directed towards the FOURTH cylinder (according to the inscriptions on the distributor cover). In this case, the latches should be approximately parallel to the motor. Lightly press the distributor with the nut, but so that it can be turned by hand. Place the cover and the wire with the grounded spark plug on the terminal of the fourth cylinder, also put the wire on the coil and on the central terminal (do not forget about the Hall sensor). Turn on the ignition
, but do not start. By turning the distributor slightly, catch the moment a spark appears on the spark plug and fix the distributor. Gather the remaining wires. To be more convincing, you can check the ignition timing using a stroboscope (100% hit).

How to adjust the ignition on a Niva with a carburetor engine with your own hands

Unpretentiousness, ease of maintenance and maintainability are a well-known advantage of all carburetor engines that were installed on cars of the VAZ family, including the entire Niva model range. But here also lies their main drawback, namely the need for periodic manual adjustments. For example, after repairs or when changing the octane number of the fuel used, the driver is required to install the ignition on a VAZ Niva car (carburetor), while injection systems do not require such manipulations.

Installing the ignition on the Niva eliminates the problem of incorrect engine operation

Due to an incorrectly set ignition timing, the engine begins to operate incorrectly and its power decreases. Timely adoption of measures to install the ignition on a VAZ-21213 Niva with a carburetor engine can eliminate the problem. If you decide to make all the adjustments yourself, you can also save on the services of a specialist. To do this, you just need to read the guide below.

NIVA CARBURETOR: WE SET UP AND REPAIR YOURSELF

Carburetor on models 2121, 21213

and other machines have, in general terms, the same device. Functionally, it is located in the propulsion system, and with its help the fuel is mixed to the state of a combustible mixture. A carburetor, as a rule, consists of several main elements - a float chamber, a so-called jet (with a spray), a diffuser, and a throttle valve. It can have from one to four cameras on different cars, sequential or simultaneous opening of the throttle valves, horizontal, downward or upward movement of the working mixture.

How to set up the ignition on a Niva yourself

The most accurate adjustment of the ignition 21213 (carburetor) can be performed using a strobe light. However, this is not the only method available in garage conditions, especially since many car enthusiasts do not have this device at their disposal and do not intend to buy it. Therefore, we will consider two ways to set the optimal ignition timing.

First, let's focus on adjustment using a strobe light. Prepare a “13” wrench and, in fact, the strobe itself for the upcoming work. If everything is ready, you can begin to perform the adjustment operations, following the step-by-step instructions, but first we will make a reservation that for correct adjustment the engine must be warmed up and the carburetor must be properly adjusted. So, the procedure is as follows:

To adjust the ignition correctly, the engine must be warmed up.

First, using a special wrench to manually rotate the crankshaft, install the piston of the first cylinder so that it is at top dead center. To do this, follow the special marks that are located on the crankshaft pulley and on the timing cover. The location of the piston can be considered correct if the mark on the pulley is aligned with the middle mark on the cover.
Next you need to remove the cover of the distributor sensor to determine whether the slider is positioned correctly. If it is directed towards the first cylinder, then the piston position corresponds to the compression stroke. If necessary, adjust the position of the slider by turning the crankshaft.
Now you should check and, if necessary, set the optimal ignition moment of the combustible mixture - prepare a strobe light for this operation. To begin with, the device should be prepared for use by connecting its “negative” wire to the ground of the car, and the “plus” wire to the positive terminal of the battery. The sensor clamp should be connected to the high voltage contact designed to ignite the mixture in the first cylinder.
Next, start the engine, setting the idle speed (approximately 800 rpm), and position the strobe so that its flashing beam is directed towards the mark on the crankshaft pulley. During operation, it should coincide with the middle mark on the timing cover. If alignment is ensured, then your vehicle has the correct advance angle, otherwise you will have to make an adjustment.
With the engine running, use a wrench to loosen the sensor-distributor, then slowly turn it until the marks mentioned above match. If it is necessary to increase the angle, the distributor should be turned counterclockwise, and by turning it clockwise, you can ensure a decrease in the ignition timing. After completing the adjustment, be sure to tighten the mounting nuts.

Using a strobe, you can adjust the moment of ignition of the working mixture very precisely.
This is how the ignition of a VAZ-21213 (carburetor) is installed using a device such as a strobe. With its help, you can adjust the moment of ignition of the working mixture no worse than a qualified car service specialist. Next we will consider an option that does not require the use of this device.

How to set ignition timing using a light bulb

This adjustment method does not require the purchase of additional equipment and at the same time allows for fairly accurate adjustments. If it suits you, then before you start adjusting the ignition of the VAZ-21213 (carburetor), prepare a 12 V test light by first soldering it to its contacts along the conductor. And you will also need a “13” wrench and a wrench to manually rotate the crankshaft. During the setup process, follow the sequence of steps described below:

Adjusting the ignition timing according to the light bulb must be done with the engine turned off.

Unlike the method that involves the use of a strobe, adjusting the ignition timing using a light bulb is carried out with the engine turned off. But here it is also necessary to install the piston of the first cylinder at TDC, aligning the mark on the pulley with the middle mark on the camshaft cover. Similar to the first method, remove the distributor cap and make sure that the slider is directed to the first cylinder.
After loosening the distributor, connect the light bulb to ground and to the low-voltage wire of the ignition coil. Don't forget to reinstall the distributor cap.
Next, turn on the car’s ignition (the light should light up at this moment) and slowly turn the sensor-distributor housing clockwise until the warning light turns off. As soon as this happens, slowly turn the distributor counterclockwise until the light goes out again. The advance angle set in this way will ensure stable engine operation at any speed.
All that remains now is to tighten the nuts securing the sensor-distributor.

We carry out the adjustment ourselves

Niva 21213

may be subject to adjustment of the starting system by the gap at the edges of the valves, if the carburetor is removed, or by the crankshaft speed directly on the machine. In the first case, the gap at the location of the lower edge (in the direction of air movement) from the throttle valve is set to a width of 1.1 mm. It is adjusted with a screw that has a 0.7 cm hexagon on the head and a slot from the shank. This operation is carried out with the cam lever turned counterclockwise from the starting system control (all the way). In the same position, the gap at the lower edge of the air damper is set to 3 mm using a screw in the cover from the diaphragm mechanism in the starting system (you need to loosen the lock nut). At the same time, the rod from the diaphragm must be forcibly recessed completely into the adjusting screw. After adjustment, the screw is fixed with a locknut.

Adjusting the Niva starting system directly in the car saves time:

You need to remove the air filter from the engine, pull the control lever away from the air damper, and start the engine.
When the air damper is forcibly opened (by touching a flat screwdriver to a third of its full angle of rotation) using a screw (next to the lever on the axis from the throttle valve from the first chamber), the initial rotation speed is set to 2.08.mar.0 thousand rpm (on a warm engine).
Remove the screwdriver, lower the air damper and, using the screw stop (next to the diaphragm), set the frequency to be 100 rpm lower than the original one (you need to select the appropriate position of the air damper).
The screw can then be secured using a locknut.

If you have a gas analyzer, then the carburetor adjustment in the starting system part can be done based on the amount of CO (carbon monoxide) in the exhaust gases. If, with the choke control lever fully extended, the gas rate is 8%, then everything is in order. If there is less gas than this value, then the screw on the cover of the diaphragm mechanism is tightened; if there is more, it is unscrewed and repeated measurements are taken.

It is necessary to adjust the idle speed of the Niva 2121 so that there is less carbon monoxide in the exhaust gases and so that the engine runs stably. At service stations, such work is carried out with gas analyzers on the MV. In the garage, adjustments can be made using the tachometer.

For these purposes, on a warm engine, a plastic plug is pierced with a screwdriver, then the quality screw is rotated in different directions until the maximum idle speed is reached. Then, using the quantity screw (has a ribbed plastic handle), you need to set an increased speed (50-70 rpm more than at standard idle speed). Operations with screws must be repeated two more times. Then on models 2121 or 21213

at idle, at speeds increased by 50-70 rpm, the quality screw is tightened, and the speed should drop to normal (i.e., decrease by 50-70 revolutions).

Ignition adjustment

Reg.: 08/21/2012 Messages: 37 From: Russia, Buryatia, Ulan-Ude Age: 48 Car: 21213, 2000 (I've owned it since April '12)

Name: Sergey Reg.: 04/07/2016 Messages: 47 From: Tambov Age: 35 Car: VAZ 21213 1999

Reg.: 08/21/2012 Messages: 37 From: Russia, Buryatia, Ulan-Ude Age: 48 Car: 21213, 2000 (I've owned it since April '12)

Sergio

Thanks for the most complete manual. I think, besides me, it will also be useful to subsequent generations of “whys”)))

Is it possible to insert plugs into cylinders 1 and 4 at the same time? Which one fires first - that means the compression stroke is there, then?

And another question - is it possible to use an internal notch (which is closer to the engine) instead of the standard mark on the pulley - it, if I understood correctly from what was written earlier, is more accurate than the external one. For me it diverges from the main one by about 5 mm.

Name: Alexey Reg.: 06/19/2017 Threads / Messages: 2 / 1705 From: Tula Age: 51 Car: VAZ-21213 1999

Name: Sergey Reg.: 04/07/2016 Messages: 47 From: Tambov Age: 35 Car: VAZ 21213 1999

Name: Georgy Reg.: 12/15/2010 Messages: 1122 From: Moscow Age: 62 Car: VAZ-21213 1997

Reg.: 08/21/2012 Messages: 37 From: Russia, Buryatia, Ulan-Ude Age: 48 Car: 21213, 2000 (I've owned it since April '12)

If I understand you correctly, you mean by the mark (notch) as in the photo?

If yes, then I'll post on it

Name: Alexey Reg.: 06/19/2017 Threads / Messages: 2 / 1705 From: Tula Age: 51 Car: VAZ-21213 1999

Name: Sergey Reg.: 04/07/2016 Messages: 47 From: Tambov Age: 35 Car: VAZ 21213 1999

Name: Georgy Reg.: 12/15/2010 Messages: 1122 From: Moscow Age: 62 Car: VAZ-21213 1997

Name: Alexey Reg.: 06/19/2017 Threads / Messages: 2 / 1705 From: Tula Age: 51 Car: VAZ-21213 1999

Name: Georgy Reg.: 12/15/2010 Messages: 1122 From: Moscow Age: 62 Car: VAZ-21213 1997

Reg.: 08/21/2012 Messages: 37 From: Russia, Buryatia, Ulan-Ude Age: 48 Car: 21213, 2000 (I've owned it since April '12)

Sergio

I set it up exactly according to this manual, everything worked! The traction is now simply drayage throughout the entire rev range. Rocket! And the main thing for me is that it stopped twitching in 1st gear at low gas (for example, when passing recumbents, it used to move like a seizure, which was extremely infuriating).

True, now it has become rather difficult to start - now it starts every once in a while (and without a boost of gas). Where should I turn the distributor?

Source

Tuning on carburetor modifications of the VAZ 2107

All old textbooks on servicing classic Zhiguli models describe a method for setting the moment of spark formation using a light bulb, although experienced motorists can easily do without it. You will understand why this happens as you read this material, but for beginners it will be useful to familiarize yourself with the old proven technique.

To correctly set the ignition of the “seven”, you need to ensure that the following conditions are met simultaneously:

the notch on the crankshaft pulley is opposite the long mark on the timing cover;
in this case, the round mark marked on the camshaft chain drive gear coincides with the boss on its body;
the piston of the 4th cylinder has completed the compression stroke and is at top dead center;
the contacts inside the distributor are open;
The movable contact of the slider faces the fixed contact on the distributor cover, where the wire from the spark plug of the 4th cylinder is connected.

The diagram shows what happens in the cylinders when the marks are aligned

The light bulb is used to control the ignition timing, for which it must be connected with one wire to the “K” contact of the high-voltage coil, and with the second to the vehicle ground. You should know that at the same moment the piston of the first cylinder is also in the TDC position, only there the air-fuel mixture is not compressed, but exhaust gases are released after its combustion. This is why ignorant car enthusiasts often confuse the first cylinder with the fourth when installing the ignition.

Layout of marks on the timing cover

When the above actions occur simultaneously, a spark discharge occurs on the electrodes of the spark plug of the 4th cylinder, as evidenced by the flash of the connected light bulb. To achieve these conditions and set the ignition correctly, follow the instructions:

Turn the crankshaft with a 36 mm wrench, aligning the notch on the pulley with the long notch on the timing cover.
If at this moment the engine valve cover is removed, then it is better to navigate by the mark on the camshaft gear, placing it opposite the housing boss.
Take the ignition distributor, remove the cover and turn its shaft to place the slider opposite the wire leading to cylinder No. 4 (there are cylinder number markings on the cover). Insert the distributor into the engine hole, holding the slider and housing in this position, and then secure it with a 13 mm wrench nut.
Connect the light bulb wires and turn on the ignition by turning the key. Loosen the nut securing the distributor and slowly turn it by the housing until the lamp flashes, indicating the moment of sparking. Reattach the distributor.
Turn off the ignition and make sure that the contacts inside the distributor are currently open. Take a 0.35 mm feeler gauge and check the gap between them, if necessary, adjust it by loosening the fastening screws with a screwdriver.

The marks must be aligned by turning the crankshaft with a wrench

The ignition is considered to be set correctly if, after installing the distributor cap and connecting the wires, you manage to start the engine, and then you need to adjust the timing. The non-contact system is installed in the same way, with the exception of checking the gap in the contact group due to its absence.

The mark on the camshaft gear is aligned with the boss on the body

Important point. In most cases, the ignition is set without removing the valve cover, which is why the position of the mark on the gear is not visible. You have done everything according to the instructions, but the engine does not start. This means that a spark is supplied to the 4th cylinder during the exhaust stroke, and compression at this moment occurs in the first cylinder. The problem can be solved simply:

remove the distributor cover;
unscrew the nut securing it;
pull the distributor out of the socket, turn the slider exactly 180° and insert the element back;
Press the distributor skirt with the nut and install the cover.

Setting the ignition timing

Rice. 7-19. Location of marks for ignition installation:

1 — ignition timing mark by 10°; 2 — ignition timing mark by 5°; 3 — ignition timing mark at 0°; 4 — mark v.m.t. on the crankshaft pulley

You can check and set the ignition timing using a strobe in the following order:

set the eccentric octane corrector of the ignition distributor to the zero position (if the engine has a P-125 V ignition distributor),
connect the “+” clamp of the strobe clamp to the “+B” terminal of the ignition coil, and the “ground” clamp to the “-” terminal of the battery;
insert an adapter for connecting a stroboscopic lamp between the spark plug wire of the first cylinder and the spark plug and mark mark 4 on the crankshaft pulley with chalk for greater visibility;
start the engine, directing the flashing strobe light to the mark on the pulley; If the ignition timing is set correctly, when the engine is idling, mark 4 visible on the pulley should be opposite mark 2 on the timing cover.

If you have a diagnostic stand with an oscilloscope, then with its help you can also easily check the ignition timing setting, proceeding as described in the instructions for the stand.

Reinstall the ignition distributor removed from the engine in the following order:

remove the cover from the distributor, check and, if necessary, adjust the gap between the breaker contacts;
turn the crankshaft until the compression stroke begins in the first cylinder, and then, continuing to turn the crankshaft, align mark 4 with mark 2;
turn the rotor to a position in which its outer contact is directed towards the contact of the first cylinder on the distributor cap;
while holding the distributor shaft from turning, insert it into the socket on the cylinder block so that the center line passing through the spring latches is approximately parallel to the center line of the engine;
secure the distributor to the cylinder block, install the cover, connect the wires, check and adjust the ignition setting.

Instructions for setting the ignition

Now we suggest you find out how to set the ignition

on Niva.

On models VAZ 21214, 2131 electronic ignition

is set as follows:

First, cylinder 1 must be set
to the top dead center position, while the mark on the crankshaft must be in front of the 3 – 0 degree mark.
Then, to set it up, you need to dismantle the distributor cover and see where the slider is located - it should be directed towards the pin of cylinder 1. Using a strobe, you need to set the torque, after which the ground of the device is connected to the battery negative, and the positive terminal to the positive.
Next, the regulator clamp should be connected to the high-voltage cable on cylinder 1 and marked with a mark on the crankshaft pulley. The engine starts, and its revolutions should be no more than 800 per minute, and the light from the strobe should be directed to the mark on the pulley. If the ignition adjustment was carried out correctly, the mark should coincide with the middle mark on the engine cover. If this is not the case, then the power unit must be turned off, then loosen the distributor fastening either clockwise or counterclockwise. The distributor cover is being dismantled; you need to ensure that the stator petals are aligned with the rotor mark.
Next, the engine starts again and warms up to 80 degrees. Accelerate to 60 km/h and press the gas pedal sharply. If the module is inserted correctly, the engine may briefly detonate at this point.

READ How to check the ignition coil on a VAZ 2106

Ignition installation!!! It is so simple

Checking the quality of the ignition switch installation

It is logical that errors are possible when connecting contacts or incorrect installation of the lock itself. Therefore, it is necessary to test the protection in the installed state. You will need an ohmmeter and a voltmeter. Performance diagnostics:

Checking the resistance between the terminals of the secondary winding: connect the probes to cylinders 1 and 4, then to cylinders 2 and 3. The data should approximately match. An error greater than 100 ohms indicates damage to the secondary winding.
The wiring is checked with a voltmeter. The first control - one probe is placed on contact A, the second - on ground. Start the engine and record the data. Turn off the car and repeat the procedure with contact B. The readings should be about 12 volts.
In addition, if there is no voltage, check the fuse, the possibility of broken wiring or corrosion of the contacts.

Preparing spare parts and tools for timing belt replacement

To adjust the marks you will need the following tools:

screwdriver;
wrenches for 8, 13, 10, or heads;
device for turning the crankshaft;
sealant;
shoes for wheels (preferably).

The condition of the mechanism greatly depends on the driving style. The chain is much stronger than the belt, but it also does not like jerking or high speeds. Therefore, driving in a sporty style, with sharp gear changes and acceleration in extreme modes, quickly “sentences” the timing belt. And the engine, transmission, car as a whole. The condition of the chain depends on the condition of the oil, tension, and alignment of the rotating parts. Therefore, when the mileage declared by the manufacturer expires, it is necessary to change not only the chain, but the accompanying parts.

The best way to determine the need for replacement is to visually inspect the timing parts. But since access to details is difficult, we can judge by indirect signs. Such as increased noise, extraneous knocks. They can be caused by wear of the tensioner and damper, sprockets, increased play of the water pump shaft, chain stretching, and other factors. Play in the pump shaft is especially dangerous, since if it breaks down, the engine overheats and dangerous chain beating occurs.

For confident driving, along with a worn chain, it is necessary to change:

tensioner;
sedative;
stars;
crankshaft oil seal (if necessary);
cylinder head gasket;

Replacing all of the listed parts together will allow you to confidently operate the car without worrying about the condition of the timing belt.

General tips for connecting high-voltage wires.

Checking high-voltage wires. To check the wires, you will need a multimeter tester. Check the resistance of the wires - it should be no more than 20 KOhms (in practice, the longest wire of cylinder 1 has a resistance of up to 10 KOhms). If the wire resistance is more than 20 Kom, it must be replaced. Carefully inspect the wires for chafing on parts of the motor or other wires. In case of significant abrasion, replace the wire. In case of minor abrasion, it is possible to lay the wire so that it does not rub and fix it in this position.

Laying wires. Do not try to connect the wires in a bundle. Disassemble the wiring harnesses, release the wires from the plastic holders. Connect the high-voltage leads to the corresponding cylinder spark plugs. Lay the wires so that they do not rub against each other, engine parts, or hoses. Avoid sharp bends and tension on the wires. After connecting all the wires, secure them into the bundle with special comb holders included in the delivery kit.

The procedure for connecting I/O wires to a VAZ carburetor (2108, 2109, 21099)

The central wire from the distributor cover always goes to the ignition coil (bobbin).

The outlet of the distributor cover, which faces towards the front of the car, is connected to the first cylinder.

The outlet of the distributor cap, looking down, is connected to the third cylinder.

The outlet of the distributor cap, looking rearward, is connected to the fourth cylinder.

The outlet of the distributor cap, looking up, is connected to the second cylinder.

The procedure for connecting high-voltage wires to a VAZ Classic, Niva with a carburetor and distributor.

Central wire from the ignition coil (bobbin)

1 cylinder - above the vacuum corrector. Next, clockwise, the order is 1-3-4-2.

Injection VAZ produced before 2004 with an old-style ignition module (4-pin low-voltage connector)

Actually, on the module body it is already indicated which cylinder the pins correspond to - but we duplicated them in red in case the module gets completely dirty, and you might not be able to see it in the photo.

Injection VAZ produced after 2004 with a new ignition coil (3-pin low-voltage connector)

As with the old-style ignition modules, the new coils are also marked with pins corresponding to the cylinders. But the connection order is different from the order on the old-style ignition module. Be careful.

Ignition distributor sensor 3810.3706

1 – roller; 2 – housing of the ignition sensor-distributor; 3 – latch; 4 – contactless sensor; 5 – vacuum regulator housing; 6 – diaphragm; 7 – vacuum regulator rod; 8 – support plate of the centrifugal regulator; 9 – ignition distributor rotor; 10 – side electrode;

11 – cover; 12 – central electrode; 13 – ember of the central electrode; 14 – resistor; 15 – external contact of the rotor; 16 – driving plate of the centrifugal regulator; 17 – weight of the centrifugal regulator; 18 – support plate of the contactless sensor; 19 – screen.

Carburetor repair for dips and jerks

Carburetor repair may be necessary if the engine idles unstable, and adjusting the quantity and quality screws does not always help. Often the reason lies in over-enrichment of the mixture, which may be a consequence of incorrect adjustment of the float system or malfunctions in the vacuum economizer system for power modes. In the latter case, a torn diaphragm may need to be replaced or the economizer valve through which fuel is leaking may need to be repaired.

Model 2121 may cause jerking, swaying or dips when moving. In this case, there may be several reasons for their occurrence, which may require carburetor repair to eliminate them. Dips that appear when the throttle valve is slowly opened are often associated with clogging of the idle jet. Here it is necessary to adjust the fuel level and check the level of clogging in the main fuel jets.

If the car gives a deep failure when trying to open the first or second throttle chambers, then in addition to clogged nozzles, the reason may be poor installation of small diffusers in the corresponding sockets.

When the Niva 21213 gives slight twitches at low and medium speeds and accelerates sluggishly, it may be due to poor fuel dosage on the shut-off valve side due to its wear. In this case, repairs are needed in terms of replacing the shut-off valve with a shut-off needle made of metal with a valve that has this needle made of a different material.

Cars of the 2121 series sometimes give failures when any sudden opening of the throttle valves, which then disappear within 5 seconds when the engine is running at the same pace. Often such problems are associated with a malfunction of the accelerator pump, which leads to a lack of or an incorrect drop in gasoline flows. A similar situation can result from a diaphragm rupture, a rubber O-ring on the sprayer holder being destroyed, or the lower part of the valve being destroyed.

If you find an error, please select a piece of text and press CtrlEnter.

Non-contact ignition system (BSZ) for 2121

Reg.: 10/25/2011 Messages: 5 From: Russia Kemerovo Age: 47 Car: VAZ 2121 1987

Reg.: 08.23.2009 Threads / Messages: 2 / 11890 From: Nizhny Novgorod region, Vyksa district Age: 36 Car: VAZ-2121 1985 VAZ-21093 1994

Reg.: 01/07/2015 Messages: 39 From: Moscow Age: 33 Car: VAZ 2121, 1988

Reg.: 10.27.2011 Topics / Messages: 27 / 2514 From: Moscow, Sokol district Age: 51 Car: NADEZHDA 2120-41 2001, 1.8; JAC Rein

Popping sounds in the carburetor when trying to accelerate is either very early ignition or lack of fuel (low level, insufficient pump, incorrect operation of the gas reducer, etc.). If the popping noise started after replacing the ignition system, check whether the distributor was installed correctly:

when aligning the crankshaft pulley along the mark, the distributor slider should look with its nose or opposite end at approximately a point located 1-1.5 cm forward from the second valve cover nut on the left side. Which end of the slider faces this place depends on which cylinder’s TDC the engine is at after aligning the marks. (Not important for testing). and is your ignition adjusted correctly?

. How to regulate - see the relevant topic or FAK, too lazy to write about this for the fortieth time.

If you had an injector, you might also suspect air getting to the throttle past the mass air flow sensor, for example through a hole in the pipe or clogged injectors. (often happens in the fall if you drive only gas all summer)

First of all, check the ignition, set it, preferably with a strobe light, and only then, if that doesn’t help, should you work on the power system.

A screw driven in with a hammer holds better than a nail tightened with a screwdriver.

Elements of the carburetor on Niva models

The carburetor circuit also includes: a drive lever from the accelerator pump, a diaphragm, an adjusting screw and an air duct from the starter, a shut-off valve (solenoid), an air damper, a needle valve, a fuel supply fitting, an economizer for power modes, a carburetor heating unit, fittings for crankcase ventilation, for supplying vacuum for the vacuum regulator in the ignition, and other elements.

READ Chevrolet Niva error codes on the instrument panel

Niva 2121 has the following sequence of fuel elements passing through the carburetor chamber. First, fuel moves from the fuel tank to the float chamber in a controlled amount. The float rises or falls as the fuel moves.

Further, the fuel path lies through the nozzle into the atomizer, located in the narrow part of the diffuser, with simultaneous air entering the carburetor through the outer pipe. The throttle valves then deliver varying amounts of fuel into the engine cylinder through an intake manifold cast from aluminum alloys. The manifold is attached to the engine with studs through gaskets that have heat-resistant properties.

Design of the ignition system of the Niva VAZ-2121 car

The ignition system is contactless. Consists of a distribution sensor, switch, ignition coil, spark plugs, ignition switch and high and low voltage wires.

The ignition distributor sensor 3810.3706 is a four-spark type, with a contactless control pulse sensor and built-in vacuum and centrifugal ignition timing regulators.

The initial ignition timing angle at a crankshaft speed of 750–800 rpm should be 1±1° BTDC.

The distribution sensor performs two main functions: firstly, it sets the moment of spark formation depending on its initial setting, the number of revolutions of the crankshaft and the load on the engine, and secondly, it distributes high voltage pulses (“spark”) among the cylinders in accordance with the order of their operation - a rotor (runner) is used for this.

In order to avoid mistakes during assembly, the slider is installed on the support plate of the centrifugal regulator in only one position.

The slider has a 1 kOhm noise suppression resistor.

The operation of a contactless sensor is based on the Hall effect.

When the ignition is turned on, power supply is supplied to the sensor. When the sensor-distributor roller rotates, a steel screen with rectangular cutouts passes through the sensor gap.

Why are timing chain marks set?

The engine of any passenger car has 2 shafts: camshaft and crankshaft. In most cars they are connected by a belt drive. On a Chevrolet Niva car this is a chain transmission, and a single-row chain is used there. The advantages of such a system are obvious: the chain, unlike a belt, never slips on the pulleys and lasts much longer. However, the chain can stretch over time, and the teeth on the shaft sprockets can wear out or even break. This will lead to desynchronization of the camshaft and crankshaft. Their work will not be coordinated, so the engine may fail. Therefore, when adjusting or replacing the timing chain, it is very important to align the engine shafts in accordance with the marks on the pulleys and timing case. This is not easy to do, since, firstly, the marks are located in hard-to-reach places, and secondly, they need to be set very accurately, since the chain, unlike a traditional belt, cannot be slightly tensioned if necessary.

How to Correctly Set the Ignition on Niva 2121

It is correct to install the ignition

VAZ 21213 ignition control

Setting the ignition time

Installation tags ignition timing

1. symbol m.t. on the crankshaft pulley; 2.7. ignition timing symbol 10°; 3. ignition timing symbol 5°; 4. ignition timing symbol 0°

Angle of ignition time up to altitude at crankshaft speed 750-800 min. 1 must comply with the information in section 1.11.

To confirm During ignition, there are three marks on the device cover 2.7, 3 and 4. time and symbol 1 on the crankshaft

, corresponding to m.t. piston in the first and fourth cylinders, which correspond to mark 4 on the cover.

You can check and set the ignition timing using the overhead mechanism. the following order:

Ignition installation. It is so simple

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How do you get the ignition on a VAZ Classic.

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To adjust the ignition timing, stop the engine and loosen the lock nut. Distribute the ignition sensor and turn it to the desired angle. For an angular increase in ignition time, the distributor body should be turned counterclockwise and decreased clockwise. Next, determine the created ignition time again.

To easily adjust the ignition timing, divisions and “” and “-” signs appear on the distributor flange during ignition. One flange fits eight degrees of crankshaft rotation.

If there is a diagnostic screen with an oscilloscope, then you can use it to simply check the ignition timing setting based on the abstract for using the shield.

Remove the distributed ignition sensor from the engine in the following order:

Installation of shafts according to Niva Chevrolet marks

You will need: a screwdriver, keys “8”, “10”, “13”, a special key for turning the crankshaft.

Setting the piston of the fourth cylinder to the TDC position of the compression stroke

The piston of the 4th cylinder is set to the TDC (top dead center) position of the compression stroke so that when carrying out work related to removing the camshaft drive chain, the valve timing is not disrupted. If the valve timing is incorrect, the engine will not operate normally.

Set TDC according to the mark on the camshaft sprocket (when installing according to the marks on the crankshaft pulley and on the front cover of the camshaft drive chain, the piston of either the 1st or 4th cylinder may be in this position).

After this, make sure that the marks on the crankshaft pulley and the cover match. If the shaft marks do not coincide, it means that the valve timing is incorrect (the piston of the 4th cylinder is not installed at TDC). In this case, it is necessary to remove the camshaft drive chain from the camshaft sprocket and rotate the crankshaft until the marks align.

You can rotate the crankshaft in the following ways.

1. Purchase a special wrench for turning the crankshaft by the pulley nut. This wrench can also turn the crankshaft from above the engine compartment.

2. Engage 4th gear and slowly roll the car in the desired direction until the mark on the camshaft sprocket matches the mark on the camshaft bearing housing.

3. Engage 4th gear and lift one of the rear wheels.

Then turn the hanging wheel in the desired direction until the mark on the camshaft sprocket matches the mark on the camshaft bearing housing.

Location of TDC marks

The marks are located on the camshaft sprocket (hole “a”) and on the camshaft bearing housing (protrusion “b”).

In addition, marks are applied in the casting on the camshaft drive chain cover (protrusion “a”) and on the ring gear of the crankshaft pulley (hole “b” on the edge of the ring).

1. Remove the cylinder head cover (see “Replacing the cylinder head cover gasket”).

Rotate the crankshaft, align the marks on the camshaft sprocket and its bearing housing.

If the chain is installed correctly, the mark on the crankshaft pulley should align with the long mark on the camshaft chain cover.

3. If the marks do not match, straighten the tabs of the lock washer of the camshaft sprocket bolt.

4. Engage first gear to secure the crankshaft from turning, unscrew the bolt and.

5. . remove it along with the lock and thrust washers. The lock and thrust washers are not fixed to the bolt in any way and can be easily removed from it. Be careful not to drop them into the engine pan.

6. Remove the chain tensioner (see “Replacing the camshaft drive chain tensioner”). If you have the necessary skills, the hydraulic tensioner does not need to be removed. It is enough to press out the hydraulic tensioner plunger with a large screwdriver or mounting spatula.

7. Remove the sprocket along with the chain, remove the chain from the sprocket and then reinstall it on the sprocket, changing the position of the chain on the sprocket teeth in the desired direction. It is recommended to move the chain one tooth at a time.

8. Place the sprocket and chain on the camshaft flange, tensioning the drive chain. Since when the position of the chain on the sprocket changes, the hole in the sprocket no longer coincides with the alignment pin in the flange, turn the crankshaft slightly in the desired direction until the hole and pin coincide.

9. Install the sprocket mounting bolt along with the thrust and lock washers and tighten it until it stops, without completely tightening it.

10. After turning the crankshaft two turns, repeat checking the position of the marks as you did before.

11. If the marks match, tighten the bolt and bend the tab of the lock washer onto the edge of its head. If the marks do not match, repeat setting the valve timing.

12. Install all previously removed parts in reverse order. To prevent oil leakage, replace the cylinder head cover gasket.

Diagram: ignition system Niva 21213

On Niva 21213 cars with a carburetor engine, a contactless ignition system with a switch and a Hall sensor in the distributor is installed.

1. Generator. 2. Battery. 3. Connection block. 4. Ignition coil. 5. Switch. 6. Hall sensor. 7. Ignition distributor (distributor). 8. High-voltage wires (armored wires). 9. Ignition relay. 10. Ignition switch. 11. Spark plugs.

— To successfully operate the ignition system of a Niva 21213 car, you must constantly carry with you some of its parts, without which it will not be able to work - a switch and an ignition coil.

More articles on the electrical equipment of the Niva 21213 car

Let's look at the differences between contact and non-contact ignition:

How to independently set the ignition on a VAZ 2106
Advantages of contactless ignition:

since there is no contact group in the distributor, sparking occurs clearly;
long coil life;
at medium engine speeds, BSZ creates a spark 4 times more powerful than contact ignition. This is especially useful if the spark plugs are dirty, as a spark will still be produced;
performs its functions perfectly even in cold weather;
if the voltage in the electrical network is low, then sparking will still occur;
thanks to the powerful, stable spark of the candles, the fuel-air mixture ignites faster;
if BSZ is installed, then fuel consumption decreases and engine power increases;
improved vehicle acceleration dynamics;
BSZ is easier to maintain because the device has no moving parts.

Examination

The module can be checked using a special diagnostic tool ELM327 or using a multimeter. Since not every car enthusiast has a diagnostic device, it would be most correct to talk about checking the MH using a simple multimeter.

To check the MH you will need a regular household multimeter, also known as a tester. The test consists of measuring the resistance of the windings.

Step-by-step verification process

Checking the resistance of the secondary winding

To do this, set the resistance measurement limit on the multimeter to 20 kOhm.

We connect the probes to the terminals of the module and look at the readings of the device.

The winding resistance should be around 5 kOhm.

Checking the primary winding

It is necessary to set the switch on the multimeter to measure resistance with a limit of 200 Ohms.

We connect the multimeter probes as shown in the picture and measure the resistance.

The resistance should be around 5 ohms.

Purpose and design of the part

The purpose of this sensor is one thing - to supply a reliable spark to the combustion chamber of the car through high-voltage wires and a spark plug. To be more precise, the ignition module does not supply a spark, but only the voltage necessary to form a spark on the spark plug.

The design of the part is made of heat-resistant plastic, in which two coils are placed. Each of the coils is responsible for the operation of two cylinders. The coils have a primary and secondary winding in which high voltage is generated.

Module differences

There are two types of ignition modules for Niva. The first type was installed on Niva until 2006, and it migrated to the Lada 4x4 from the VAZ 2112.

VAZ 2112 module

The Niva received a new type of module from the VAZ 2111.

VAZ 2111 module

Visually, these two details are quite difficult to confuse. They differ from each other in weight and dimensions; the weight of the MZ from the VAZ 2112 is much greater than from the VAZ 2111.