How to change the rear wing on a VAZ 2112

Repair process

VAZ 2110 rear right fender

Raise the car on a jack.
Press out the wing.
You need to level the surface using a heavy tool (this could be a hammer). Take a nozzle with a sharp flat end and apply it to the other side of the dent. After this, hit the flat surface of the nozzle with a hammer. A slight leveling will be noticeable.
The outside needs to be straightened with a flat object.

Note: it is better to straighten using an iron tool, since aluminum will not work. All actions must be performed quickly. However, you should not hit too hard. This can cause the metal to stretch, causing the wing to expand slightly.

The edges need to be knocked out very carefully, along one line.

Complete rear fender replacement

VAZ 2110 right rear fender

In some cases, it is necessary to completely replace the rear fender. For example, if it is damaged to such an extent that there is no point in even trying to repair it. Usually it is changed if:

It was significantly deformed upon impact.
It has small tears.
Penetrating corrosion is observed.

VAZ 2110 rear right wing

Replacing a wing is a rather labor-intensive process, but it can be done at home by following the instructions:

You need to completely empty the trunk, remove the bumper, headlights (see Replacing headlights on a VAZ 2110: we do it ourselves), the fuel tank, and also the trunk mat.
Remove the rear fender.

Note: You can use a thin chisel for this. Using careful movements, you need to slightly squeeze out the rear wing, but try not to damage the car body.

It is necessary to drill points at the junction of the wing with the transverse rear window frame. Now you can remove the rear wing.
Carefully remove any strips of metal that remain on the wing. Nippers and a chisel will help with this. The edges need to be straightened and sanded.

Rear right wing of VAZ 2110

If there is dirt under the wing, it needs to be removed. This surface must be thoroughly degreased.
Attach the new wing by welding.

We cooperate with:

Delivery is carried out throughout Russia and the CIS.

Deadline for order delivery to T.K. from 1 to 4 business days from the date of receipt of funds. (orders are not processed on Saturday and Sunday).

Lead time for orders that include painting services: 5-10 business days.

The lead time for placing orders and “made to order” items is from 14 days; you can check with the manager for more detailed information.

Orders for pickup are placed on the website, the formation time is on average 1-4 business days, after the items arrive at the pickup point, the manager will notify you when you can receive your order.

ATTENTION! All fragile goods (headlights, plastic products, glass, etc.), by default, are sent in additional paid packaging from TK. If you take responsibility for the integrity, we can ship without it. To do this, you need to make a note in the comments when placing your order. For additional information, please contact the managers.

If the rear wing arch begins to rot

Rear right wing for VAZ 2110

Iron very quickly undergoes corrosion, which, as it grows, can harm the entire car. It is advisable to start repairs when the rust has not yet seeped into the solon, as the consequences will be much worse. The arch of the front or rear wing is most often affected by this problem. To fix this problem you need to do the following:

Disconnect the ground so that any welding work can be carried out without difficulty.
The damaged part must be cut off, and the remaining parts must be cleaned properly.
To seal the resulting hole, you need to attach a patch on the “wrong” side. This must be done by welding.

Note: before this, you need to treat the damaged area with acid to get rid of corrosion. And in order to make it easier to process this part in the future, you need to drill a small hole in it (preferably from the inside).

The patch must be cut from stainless steel to prevent rust from appearing in the future.

Note: to make it easier to cut out the patch, you need to take a piece of cardboard, place it on the damaged part and press it so that its dimensions are transferred to the cardboard. You will get a “fingerprint”. You need to cut a patch along it, slightly larger than it. Transfer it to the metal and cut it out.

Now the edges of the patch need to be welded to the wing so that it holds well.

Modifications

VAZ-21120

Modification with a 16-valve injection engine with a volume of 1.5 liters and a power of 93 horsepower. 14-inch wheels were installed on the car.

This modification has a problem with valves bending when the timing belt breaks. The problem can be solved by increasing the depth of the grooves in the piston bottoms.

VAZ-21121

The car was equipped with a VAZ-21114 8-valve injection engine with a volume of 1.6 liters and a power of 81 horsepower.

VAZ-21122

Budget modification with an 8-valve injection engine VAZ-2111. The car was produced without electric windows, the wheels were 13 inches in size, and the brakes were unventilated from a VAZ-2108 car.

VAZ-21123 “Coupe”

A car with a three-door coupe body.
The only two doors for entering the car are 200 millimeters wider than those of the five-door hatchback, and they are mounted on new, durable hinges. The rear arches of the car have become wider. The spoiler is different from the usual one; it is now located on the roof of the car in the area of the trunk door. New rear view mirrors provide improved visibility. In general, the appearance of the car has become more sporty. For sitting in the rear seats, the backs of the front seats recline, as was the case on the VAZ-2108. The car body, due to the reduced number of doors, has become more rigid, much more rigid in torsion than that of the five-door model. The suspension has become stiffer, and the car's handling has also noticeably improved.

The engine was installed with a 16-valve injection engine with a volume of 1.6 liters and a power of 90 horsepower. The car was produced from 2002 to 2006 in small quantities, the reason for this was the high cost of the car.

VAZ-21124

Modification with a 16-valve injection engine VAZ-21124 with a volume of 1.6 liters. Produced from 2004 to 2008. For this type of engine, the problem with valve bending was solved. To do this, the depth of the grooves in the piston heads was increased (up to 6.5 mm). In addition, the design of the cylinder block was changed to achieve a working volume of 1.6 liters, for which its height was increased by 2.3 mm, and the radius of the crankshaft was increased by 2.3 mm accordingly. There were also a number of other minor changes.

VAZ-21128

The luxury version of the car, produced by Super-auto JSC, was equipped with a 16-valve VAZ-21128 engine with a volume of 1.8 liters and a power of 105 horsepower.

VAZ-2112-37

A racing modification of the VAZ-2112, prepared for the “ring” in the Lada Cup qualifying group. The car was equipped with a 1.5-liter VAZ-2112 engine with a power of 100 horsepower. The racing car was equipped with a safety cage, an external aerodynamic kit and a front extension of the strut support cups.

VAZ-2112-90 “Tarzan”

All-wheel drive modification with a VAZ-2112 body on a frame chassis with transmission and suspension parts from a VAZ-21213 Niva. It was also equipped with a 1.7 or 1.8 liter engine from the Niva.

Painting the rear wing of a VAZ

Rear fender painting

If the car breaks down for any reason, it needs repairs. At the same time, if it is scratched, then it needs to be painted. After the repair, the wing will have to be painted in any case.

First, you need to highlight the damaged parts with a marker so that you can pay the most attention to them during the painting process;
Then - primer. It is necessary so that the paint adheres better to the car;
The next step is to apply the first layer of base paint.

Note: you need to spray the paint in a thin layer, so the sprayer must be held approximately 20 cm from the wing.

Leave for 5-7 minutes to dry.
Next is the second layer of paint.
Let it dry slightly again.
Apply a third layer.

Note: You need to wait about 20 minutes before applying the polish. At the same time, if dust has slightly settled on the surface of the wing, it must be removed with a sticky cloth.

Now you can start applying the varnish. The first layer is applied.

Note: Don't try to create a glossy finish with the first coat. This may cause the remaining varnish to bleed.

Leave for 7-10 minutes to allow the varnish to dry slightly.

Note: after this you can check for tack (if it sticks a little, but does not rub off, then you can start applying another layer).

Second coat of varnish. Leave to dry thoroughly.
Wipe with a damp cloth.
Polish the vases.

Puttying

So, if we are talking about minor damage, the putty method is used. Step by step it looks like this:

It is necessary to thoroughly wash and dry the car.
Remove all bare metal rust from the damaged areas and sand them thoroughly.
Treat areas with reactive primer and allow the surface to dry.

Car rear arch putty
Place acrylic filler on top of the reactive layer - under no circumstances should putty be applied to acidic primer.
After the acrylic has dried, apply putty and wait for it to dry.
Thoroughly sand the dried putty, gradually reducing the grain size of the abrasive. Thus, level the surface, preparing it for painting.
Paint those areas of the car that have been repaired.

How to remove and install the wing on 2110, 2111, 2112

An article with photos and video materials for everyone who is faced with the need to replace the front wing on cars of the tenth LADA family.

1. Before you begin removing the front or rear wing from the VAZ 2110 , you need to disconnect the negative cable from the battery terminal.

2. After this, you need to remove the lock from the wheel where you want to remove the wing. (see here).

3. After this, you need to move the side turn signal towards the front of the car and remove it from the hole in the fender. The turn signal housing itself needs to be removed. We push the remaining socket with the lamp inward through the hole in the wing.

4. Unscrew the bolt for the side mounting of the buffer from the bottom on the corresponding side.

5. Now you need to loosen the five nuts securing the crankcase protection to the tens bumper from below.

6. After this, you can remove the radiator trim (see here) and loosen the two bolts securing the front buffer.

7. This will allow us to move the buffer in the direction we need to gain access to the bolt that is responsible for the front wing fastening. Unscrew this bolt completely.

8. After this, you can unscrew two more wing mounting bolts from below.

9. Unscrew the two rear fender mounting bolts through the wheel well.

10. Unscrew the four upper wing mounting bolts and remove the wing.

11. Install the wing in the reverse order of removal. In this case, it is recommended (especially when installing a new wing) to clean the surfaces mating with the wing on the body and install new insulating gaskets between the body and the upper wing flange and between the front pillar and the rear wing flange. If gaskets are not available, you can coat the mating surfaces with mastic.

12. Before final tightening of the fastening bolts, align the wing with the enlarged holes in order to align with the gaps and protrusion with the rest of the body panels. After installing the new fender, apply an anti-corrosion coating to the inner surface.

Tuning VAZ-2112: Milky Way is not for children

School dreams come true

When Vladimir was still going to school, the magazine “Car Tuning” had just begun to be published, and the boys were constantly looking at the pictures, dreaming that “I will have one like that too.” Later, in 2006, when the opportunity arose to buy a “boy’s car,” he chose between the VAZ-2108 and VAZ-2112. By chance, a neighbor’s acquaintance was just selling a “two-piece.” Vova went to see the car, he liked everything, and two days later he purchased his first car. And he immediately began to bring all his fantasies to life. First, it was fashionable at that time white forged wheels, shortened springs and equally fashionable Plaza Sport struts, then it was time to refine the engine and gearbox. Tuning is a constant thing; as you know, it cannot end. And at that moment, when everything in his VAZ began to seem banal to Vladimir, he decided... not to sell the car, but to move on.

Second wind

He wanted to build a really low “two-wheeler” and definitely on 17 wheels. I found, as I thought then, suitable 17th “skating rinks” and installed them (and they were narrow). The car naturally rose, and it became obvious that it lacked lowering and width. Suspension measurements and calculations began. Vladimir realized that even the shortest shock absorbers that he saw on sale were not enough to achieve a good lowering. Having studied the information in more detail on the Internet, he found out about the Custom Samara suspension, talked with the master himself, Artem Metra, explained to him what kind of result he wanted to see, and after some time the finished struts were already in Vova’s hands. Then the search began for wide wheels. Keskin KR1 wheels attracted attention with their design, and they were even found in Moscow, and for a very nice price.

Even before starting the search for suspension and “slippers,” Vladimir had already thoroughly thought through what his car would look like. After surfing foreign websites, he decided to make the VAZ-2112 in the direction of HellaFlush, the distinctive features of which are wide wheels and low-profile tires that are literally stretched over the wheel. In general, the whole point is that the arch is as close to the wheel as possible, the closer, the steeper, the tires are like a house, and all this needs to be “seasoned” with lowering and decent camber.

However, the “twin” cars purchased by Keskin did not fit into the standard arches. There was nothing left but to saw the wings, which Vladimir did. Leaving everything in the “draft version”, he immediately installed new wheels and suspension, adjusted it, made a test drive and realized that even on a flat road the subframe sometimes clings to the asphalt. Now this problem had to be solved. In order to move normally with such a lowering, it was necessary to raise the subframe, and for this it was necessary to raise the engine. In principle, there is nothing complicated in this procedure: I calculated the height to which the engine can be moved, and digested all the mounting pads for the engine and gearbox. As a result, the rise was 5 centimeters, and the subframe was moved by the same amount. By the way, in connection with this, everyone had to cut out a hole in the engine panel for the gear shift slide. Another problem was that the CV joint drives rested against the side members. Vova cut out the spars, opened them and strengthened them inside; the “windows” in the spars turned out to be around 5-7 cm.

Having finally raised the engine, the enthusiastic VAZ owner encountered another difficulty: the hood stopped closing, since the receiver and oil filler neck were now in the way. After some thought, Vladimir took the turbo receiver (it is smaller in size and is located at the front of the engine) and gave the oil filler neck to his friends for lowering (he could not do this himself, since he needed argon). After installing the converted parts, the hood closed!

In parallel with this, work was going on on the rear suspension, where everything was much simpler. With the help of special custom plates that move the hub higher (they are screwed onto the beam, and the hub itself is screwed onto them), the visual effect of lowering the car is achieved. The result was minus 9 centimeters and a camber of 5 degrees. Vova installed springs from Niva, since they are stiffer than both the “classic” and “Samara” springs, and the goal is to reduce the suspension travel as much as possible in order to fit the discs to the arches as close as possible. The shock absorbers are fitted with polyurethane bump stops to provide even greater rigidity.

After this, the owner began moving the gas tank, because with such a strong understatement it could simply be pierced or erased. The standard tank had to be replaced with a small rectangular one (additional from UAZ), which fit in the trunk in the niche for the spare wheel. Copper pipes now run from the gas tank to the engine, and throughout the cabin - again, so as not to rub them off on the asphalt.

Next it was the turn of the brake system. The front now has 15th Alnas brake discs and Volga calipers (for models 3102, 3110, 31105 and even Gazelle), and faceplates were used to put them on the VAZ fist. At the rear are 13th brake discs and calipers from a VAZ-2109, also installed through faceplates. Brake pipes were also installed throughout the cabin, and a Kreatech hydraulic handbrake was added to the brake system.

Then Vladimir welded a new exhaust system: he took a “Spider” “Subaru-sound” (I like the sound of it), and after that he welded the route, hiding it as much as possible in the floor tunnel; I took the resonator and muffler from 4-stars. At the same time, we managed to purchase all the seats from the Mitsubishi Lancer 9 practically for nothing. After remaking the mounting brackets, they fit like originals, so the interior of the VAZ-2112 was updated.

And only now, after all the adjustments and adjustments, Vladimir began to finish the arches. I thought for a long time about what to do, and one day, standing in a traffic jam, I noticed the rear arches of the Gazelle route - he liked their shape. A trip to the car market resulted in the purchase of a repair kit for Gazelle arches and fitting them onto the rear fenders of the Twelve. Of course, we had to saw, adjust and trim, but you can see the result in the photographs: the arches and rims with tires are very close to each other.

Everything turned out simpler at the front: we managed to find fenders from a VAZ-2112 coupe, and they come from the factory with blown arches. However, since the car is low and has 17 wheels, they would not fit without modifications; it was necessary to raise the arches in the wings themselves. Vova chose the option of sawing off the arches from the purchased wings and welding them onto his own. He also moved the license plate to the trunk lid, soldering a niche for the number on the bumper, and installed an old-style spoiler, giving the car some flair. After all this, the car was repainted in its original Milky Way color. Hence the nickname “twins” – Milky Way.