Thresholds on VAZ 2109 - replacing linings with 21099 (2108), how to digest iron

The purpose of thresholds, popularly boxes, as a composite load-bearing element of the body is to prevent torsional deformation in the middle part. Severe destruction of the boxes is fraught with irreversible loss of geometry - the body begins to “walk”. The nine has a lightweight and simplified body. Therefore, even a spar that miraculously did not have time to rot will not save the situation. The car's steering becomes unpredictable. The structure of the structure is quite simple. The main load during movement is taken by amplifiers (two on each side - large and small), welded to the outer part of the box structure. The amplifiers are welded to the A-pillar, B-pillar and floor. Additional structural rigidity is provided by connectors that are welded to the bottom.

Dimensions

Factory thresholds on the VAZ 2109 are supplied with a 1 mm thick reinforcement. Only 0.8 mm samples are available for sale. Despite its flimsy appearance compared to the factory model, such an amplifier is quite acceptable for providing the required rigidity. Especially taking into account the remaining service life of the VAZ 2109.

Also, on all new VAZ body parts, the size may differ from the factory one, so in most cases the part needs to be adjusted at the installation site.

Are there any differences between the thresholds of VAZ 2109, 21099 and 2108

Thresholds, amplifiers and connectors from VAZ 2109/2109/21099 to 2115 are completely identical. Since the 2108 body is a two-door version of the nine, the dimensions of the component boxes are slightly different. In turn, all elements of the VAZ 2108 threshold are compatible with the coupe of later years of production - 2113. In terms of workmanship, front-wheel drive Samaras of later years of production are more susceptible to corrosion. According to reviews from owners, a systematic deterioration in the quality of bodies began in the 1990s.

What does the device consist of?

Dimensions

Also, on all new VAZ body parts, the size may differ from the factory one, so in most cases the part needs to be adjusted at the installation site.

Are there any differences between the thresholds of VAZ 2109, 21099 and 2108

Body repair is a harsh thing, or use a chisel to “CHISEL”

For everything about garage welding of rotten cars, see the new book on car repair from Khoma

In August 2009, a nice young lady approached me with a small request - to weld a hole in the side member of a VAZ-21093 car, in common parlance - “chisels”, they say, the husband is a diagnostician, “fumbles” with engines at 10c plus, but there is no one to do auto body work.

Well, helping your neighbor is a sacred thing, I thought and invited them to the show. The initial examination raised a lot of questions, ranging from year of birth to:

WHERE IS THE CAR'S FLOOR? Brief questioning of the owner revealed the following: the car was produced in 1996, stupidly stood in a pit for three years, after which it was bought outbid, hastily patched up, coated with various mastics and successfully sold off to the current owners, and since the diagnostician husband figured out that the engine was in good condition, he didn’t bother with the condition of the body…..But in vain!

The young lady was offered the following options:

— replace the floor, sills, rear side members

— completely change the body (the engine is excellent)

- cover it up again and sell it off to other less fortunate buyers at an even lower price (there was no recycling program at that time).

Ultimately, the decision was made - COOK!

Disassembling the interior took two hours, they opened the Shumka and “rejoiced”:

the floor of the car was practically destroyed by corrosion (see photos 1, 2, 3) The place of the “happy” driver, who almost ran along the “path with his own legs” (photo 4) looked especially impressive

Since the floor tunnel miraculously survived, only the “trough” was replaced

After cutting off the rags, cleaning off mastics and other offal, drilling out resistance welds on the side members, and carefully marking them, welding of the floor began.

By the way, everything was cooked using a domestic carbon dioxide semi-automatic PDG-165.

Next in line were the rapids.

After opening the outer panels, a view appeared no less gloomy than the appearance of the floor (photo 9, 10)

In order not to take risks, stretchers were installed in the body for rigidity (see photo 26, where the car looks quite naked) and this measure, I think, was not unnecessary - it’s better to be overdressed than underdressed.

The remains of the side members and jacks brought tears to my eyes... (photo 11, 12)

Having mercilessly chopped off pieces of old metal with a grinder and a chisel, we got to the living metal of the body. We welded in the amplifiers, connectors and front jacks. Buy a new book on auto repair from Khoma. We decided to wait a while before installing the doors to install the external sill panels in order to prevent the appearance of unnecessarily large gaps.

Finally, the turn came to the spars. This “hole” was what the sweet girl wanted to seal (photo 14)

The same photo shows that the edges of the wheel arches still have the same deplorable appearance. Removing the rear bumper and examining the trunk for integrity forced me to take up the camera again:

The left trunk well (see photo 21) and the rear panel (see photos 15, 32) also suffered from terrible rot. For further repairs, we had to remove the gas tank and the rear beam (photo 28). While they were filming, the soured brake pipes were told to live to death for a long time (see photo 23). There was no time to mourn for them, so the chisel, grinder and drill were used again. The edges of the arches were trimmed, the side members were drilled out, and the rear panel was cleaned down to bare metal. First, new spars were installed, and then new edges freshly cut from millimeter sheet metal were welded to them by spot welding, as well as parts of the rear panel (see photos 24, 25, 27, 16). At this point, the welding work was completed, but the owner expressed a desire , taking the opportunity to “make noise” of the interior, and treat it with anticorrosive... No sooner said than done, especially since the customer supplied the materials himself, with the exception of body iron.

So, the hidden cavities were treated with Movil, the interior was glued, the bottom was treated with bitumen mastic (the rear panel, of course, also got it) see photos 18, 19, 20.

I won’t describe the procedure for assembling the interior, it’s boring and not quick, because you have to return everything down to the screw to its appropriate place)))

Two weeks after the car was delivered, the owner received her car in a rather cheerful mood of body and spirit, she was incredibly pleased with the price and quality and drove for another year until she bought something foreign.....

I haven’t come with any breakdowns yet. Buy a new book on car repair from Khoma. Written by Roman aka Jagger, May 2010

We send all questions to

All such work, of course, is carried out only in enclosed spaces - garages, construction boxes, repair shops, or at least under a good canopy.
Before you start replacing the threshold on the “nine”, you need to remove both doors on the side on which the replacement is being carried out and remove the aluminum trim from the old one.
Remove the old thresholds in sections, starting from the middle, from the front door. This will make it more convenient for you. Cut out the worn-out thresholds with a grinder, and then be sure to remove traces of corrosion by cleaning all problem areas.
Take a new threshold, we will install it. First cut off part of the amplifier, align it well and weld it to the bottom of the joint. You need to make a small cutout in the area of the B pillar.
The top panel should be attached very tightly, without cracks or gaps. For greater reliability and rigidity, screw the screws in there.
Then you need to make holes through which welding will be carried out. The bottom of the panel and the connector are firmly welded to the amplifier.
Weld a brand new aluminum plate on top. But it is better to weld metal plates (patches) on the bottom side.
The threshold assembled in this manner must be brought into ideal condition by sealing all seams. Take putty, primer and paint, and apply first, then second and third to the weld seams.
Install all removed parts (we are talking about doors) in exactly the reverse order. Actually, the replacement of the thresholds on your “nine” has been successfully completed.

What affects wear

The active destruction of the external and internal parts of car boxes is caused by a combination of poor-quality anti-corrosion treatment coupled with urban operating conditions in winter:

reagents;
constant exposure to water;
temperature changes;
high humidity.

Most believe that the thresholds on the 2109 were made very poorly. Let us list the main causes and consequences of rapid corrosion of VAZ cars:

Poor quality factory painting of VAZ body elements. Moisture gets under the paint, quickly starting the corrosion process. In practice, box repairs are needed after 10 years of operation.
Lack of modern anti-corrosion treatment technologies. A striking example of proper processing is the galvanized body of the Audi 80 from the late 80s and early 90s. Such cars are still in service today. Whereas VAZ 00-x is already rare.
Poor waterproofing. Water quickly enters the internal threshold (connector) and remains there all year round. Salt from the city road “finishes off” the metal.
Poor design of drainage holes for removing water from the body.
Disadvantages of the interior heating system.

Treatment with anti-corrosion agents

All work related to the repair of thresholds must be completed by treating all surfaces with special compounds to prevent the formation of corrosion. Anticorrosives made on a bitumen basis are best suited for this. In addition to rust, such protection will help against the effects of other unfavorable factors - the effects of gravel and small stones.

Some vehicle manufacturers protect the internal parts of the sills from rust with simple foam for installation work. This can be done efficiently at the factory, but for self-repair it is better not to use this method. The fact is that the foam will fill all the insides of the threshold, blocking the access of air there. Moisture will begin to accumulate in these areas, promoting the development of corrosion.

Preparatory work before replacement

It is more convenient to carry out a preliminary inspection of the car and replacement of the box in a garage with a pit.

You will need a powerful inverter-type welding machine and a grinder with a metal disc. If you really want to do the body work, you can do it yourself by renting it or buying it and resale it.

Then you can begin the preliminary stage of work on replacing body sills:

It is necessary to pre-treat new body parts, since the main problem is corrosion. Practice has shown that the first priority is protection from water. Epoxy primer does not allow moisture and air to pass through. Soil in the form of an aerosol is best suited for processing.
The doors need to be removed. The VAZ 2109 will need a pair of keys and the help of a partner.
Pieces of steel profile should be welded diagonally to the doorways. The resulting design will prevent a situation where, when removing the remains of rotten boxes, the car body “collapses” under its own weight due to loss of rigidity.
The new box is being measured. You should also mark the approximate boundaries along which the obsolete threshold is removed.

Fixed

Everything happens differently with them. First, space around the thresholds is freed up, because you will have to remove doors, seats, and floor coverings.

If the deformations are small, then the dents can be corrected in various ways. For more serious damage, accompanied by creases, you will have to cut out a window for the anvil to support the metal during straightening.

Having leveled the surface, a suitable piece of metal is welded onto the window. You can make transverse cuts and separate the welds. The metal is bent and straightened using an anvil.

Algorithm of actions for complete replacement

Despite the rotten body, the car can serve its owner faithfully for years, since black steel has a serious margin of safety.

Let's consider the algorithm of actions step by step:

The outer part of the rotted threshold is cut out along the upper edge with a grinder.
At the bottom, the remaining metal is removed with a chisel.
The amplifier is stripped down to the first layer at the contact welding points.
Using a grinder, carefully go over the welding points across the amplifier. If everything is done correctly, the amplifier is quite easily separated from the welding points with a chisel.
The threshold connector is removed. To do this, use a chisel or grinder.

We repair removable thresholds

They should be removed first. The screws are unscrewed with a screwdriver, and straightening is carried out on a workbench or other hard surface.

After that we install them on the car. You should be careful here, since each model has its own characteristics of this type of work. If the removable threshold is rotten, then it is simply replaced with a new analogue.

Correct welding sequence

Safety on the road depends on how well the car is repaired. Remember that the modern rhythm of movement implies serious dynamic loads on the body. Therefore, carrying out work on the body requires compliance with a given technological process.

The process of welding thresholds, close to factory conditions, step by step:

Holes for welding with a diameter of 7 mm are drilled on the connectors.
The amplifier is being adjusted and overcooked.
The seams and welding points under the platform for installing the outer part of the box are cleaned.
The doors are temporarily installed, the threshold is additionally adjusted to the front and rear fenders. The recess should match the embossing on the wing, and the doors should open freely.
The element is fixed (some bodybuilders use homemade clamps) and welded with an overlap of about 20 mm over the old parts hammered in with a hammer.
The surface is treated with a grinding wheel, putty with fiberglass is applied and painted. Replacement is complete.

How to choose a part: average prices

Since the latest front-wheel drive VAZ has not been produced since 2012, there are almost no original body parts on the market. What remains is the cooperative body iron. The main advantage of the option is that the price of the door sills is nowhere lower at 2109. The main disadvantage is the inaccurate fit of dimensions, which requires adjustment of parts. As a result, a more highly qualified technician is required to carry out repair work.

Iron elements for thresholds

Depending on the supplier, the price of thresholds and repair kits for the VAZ 2109 may vary. Body parts for VAZ from (Naberezhnye Chelny) are considered the most inexpensive branded ones. Also, the production of some spare parts is still ongoing in Togliatti, traditionally the retail price is a little more expensive, with a premium for the original. The manufacturer from Rostov is quoted at prices on par with Nachalo. The cost of a set for both sides of the nine varies between 2000 - 2500 rubles.

Plastic covers

The price of a set of plastic trims for the VAZ 2108 is from 700 rubles for the standard version. Sellers estimate a plastic set of tuned overlays in a sporty style at 2000 - 3000 rubles. Of course, plastic is available to match any car color. If a car with severe corrosion is planned for sale, the sill trim is sealed with polyurethane sealant to give it a marketable appearance. The achieved decorative effect allows you to profitably sell the car.

Strengthening thresholds. (preparation for painting) / Performance car side panel / smotra.ru

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