How to replace antifreeze on a Chevrolet Lacetti yourself


For reliable and long-term operation of the power plant, it is necessary to maintain its temperature within a narrow range. A cooling system is used to absorb and dissipate heat. Its working fluid is antifreeze. The life of the power unit depends on its timely replacement and compliance with recommendations for selection.


General Motors branded coolant

What coolant is for the Lacetti?

The Chevrolet Lacetti cooling system uses high-profile ethylene glycol-based coolant (antifreeze).

The most important component in antifreeze is silicates, which protect aluminum from corrosion.

As a rule, antifreeze is sold in the form of a concentrate, which must be diluted with distilled water in a 50:50 ratio before filling. And when using a car at temperatures below minus 40 ° C - in a ratio of 60:40. It is necessary to dilute the antifreeze with distilled water first (before pouring it into the cooling system).

The most popular today are antifreezes of the G11 standard and the G12/G13 group of standards. In fact, the designation G11, G12, G12+, G12++ and G13 are market names for VW antifreeze standards TL 774-C, TL 774-F, TL 774-G and TL 774-J. Each of these standards imposes strict requirements on the composition of the product, as well as on the range of its properties.

G11 (VW TL 774-C) is a blue-green coolant (color may vary depending on manufacturer). The service life of this antifreeze is no more than 3 years.

Antifreeze G12 red is a development of the G11 standard. It allowed, first of all, to increase the recommended service life to 5 years. Antifreezes G12+ and G12++ differ quite significantly from regular G12 in their formulation and properties. Antifreezes of these standards have a red-purple-pink color, also have an extended service life, however, unlike G12, they are much less aggressive, more environmentally friendly and can be mixed with blue G11. Mixing G11 and G12 is strictly not recommended. A further development was the G13 standard antifreeze. They are also purple-pink in color and are fully compatible with previous standards.

Personally, I use G12++ antifreeze from well-known brands.

What coolant is used?

The cooling system of a Lacetti hatchback is operated together with high-quality antifreeze made from ethylene glycol. It is better to pour it into the expansion tank. Silicate is the main element in antifreeze, which is designed to serve as protection against rust.

Antifreeze is sold in concentrated form. If the old one is still flooded, then it should be removed from the tank. For this reason, before using the concentrate, add purified water in a 1:1 ratio. At low temperatures, at -40 degrees and below, the liquid must be poured in a ratio of 3:2.

When to change coolant

It all depends not on the brand and recommendations of the car manufacturer, but on the antifreeze used and the condition (age) of the car.

If you use G11 antifreeze, then replacement should be carried out every 2 years, or 30-40 thousand km. mileage

If G12, G12+, G12++ were filled in, then you need to remember about replacement after 5 years, or 200 thousand km. mileage

Personally, I use G12++ and change it every 4 years, or 100 thousand km. mileage

But, to be honest, 100 thousand km. I've never rolled. Four years passed faster than I achieved this mileage.

There may also be moments in life that make adjustments to the timing of replacement and the antifreeze used. As an example, I will give two from my life.

First, there was a war here and even grocery stores stopped working. Therefore, one could generally forget about auto parts stores. The mail didn't work either. Therefore, I had to buy a canister of “green Felix” from local dealers. At the first opportunity in the future, I tried to change it to the usual red G12++. But this “green stuff” served its two years quite well.

Secondly, the plug in the cooling jacket in the cylinder head leaked. Naturally, the oil mixed with antifreeze and it had to be replaced much ahead of schedule.

And most importantly, do not exceed replacement intervals. Old coolant actively corrodes the cylinder head, pump, fittings, and other elements of the cooling system.

Tips for improving engine warm-up

In order for the car to be operated in optimal operating mode of the power unit, several rules must be followed:

  • The car owner must monitor the quality of the cooling system. Periodic diagnostics require not only the thermostat and fan, but also the antifreeze itself. It is necessary to maintain its regulated quantity, avoiding minimum values. Air pockets must be removed from the system and any leaks must be eliminated. The coolant also needs timely replacement. The amount of its functional resource is determined individually for each individual model.
  • Traveling in the cold season should be carried out in medium speed mode, at the level of 3000-3500. It is recommended to use a lower gear more often, especially when driving on the highway.
  • An excellent solution would be to insulate the engine compartment. Even the presence of ordinary cardboard inserted in front of the cooling radiator can improve the situation. If the owner covers the engine compartment with porous materials or felt, the engine will warm up noticeably faster, and its natural cooling will no longer have a significant effect on operation.

What is needed to replace the coolant

To replace the coolant we will need:

— Screwdriver

— Antifreeze concentrate, or ready-made antifreeze

— Distilled water (about 15 liters)

— A container for draining used coolant. It is highly advisable to use a container with displacement divisions. For this I use a 10 liter canister of primer

— Rubber or silicone hose 10 mm in diameter.

— For ease of work, an inspection hole or overpass is required. But it's not at all necessary.

If you change antifreeze without an inspection ditch or overpass, then you need a low container and a 12mm wrench.

Should I flush the engine when changing the oil?

I don’t rinse and don’t worry too much about it. I think that washing is a waste of time and money. Even more - I don’t even advise you to engage in this dirty business.

Have you ever wondered why car manufacturers do not write requirements for regular flushing of their engines in their car operating instructions? Everything is very simple - with normal operation, proper maintenance of the car and the use of high-quality oil, the inside of the engine remains clean without any additional procedures or chemicals. Any good oil contains additives that are responsible for cleaning the engine, and there are as many of them as you need! And not only that - they keep all the crap in suspension in order to bring it to the filter, and when changing the oil, drain it along with it (for this, the oil is drained only from a warm engine so that it does not “settle”).

And by flushing, you significantly change the characteristics of the oil itself, and first of all we are talking about its viscosity. After all, you won’t be able to drain all the flushing. The engine is designed in such a way that up to 10% of the drained oil remains in the engine!

To clean the engine, it is better to change the oil more often and the results will not be long in coming.

Now, actually, let's move on to changing the oil. The replacement process for a Lacetti is practically no different from most cars.

Coolant replacement

Note! Replace the vehicle's coolant at an engine temperature of no more than + 40 °C to avoid burns.

Open the expansion tank cap to relieve pressure in the system and close it again!

We take a container for draining waste fluid, a rubber tube, a screwdriver and head under the car.

Unscrew the five engine protection bolts and remove the protection.

From the lower end of the radiator, a little to the right of the center (if you look in the direction of travel), we find the drain fitting and put a tube on it. You don’t have to put it on, but this way less liquid will spill. We direct the second end of the tube into a container to drain the liquid.

It is more convenient to use transparent silicone hose

Using a slotted screwdriver, unscrew the drain plug of the radiator of the cooling system several turns. Just not by much, otherwise it might fly out under the pressure of the liquid!

Now open the filler cap of the tank again. After this, the waste liquid should begin to flow more quickly from the drain fitting. It will take a long time to leak, so you can vacuum the interior and wash the floor mats for now.

We wait until the liquid begins to flow less intensely.

We tighten the cap of the expansion tank and disconnect the hose from the tank that goes to the throttle assembly. Close the fitting on the tank with your finger and blow into the hose with your mouth

This way the liquid will come out faster and in a larger volume (i.e. less will remain in the system)

When only air comes out, then we can say that we have drained the used antifreeze.

We screw the radiator drain fitting back into place and connect the hose back to the expansion tank, which we removed.

If the coolant level on your car was at a minimum, then about 6 liters should drain

If the tank was at the MAX mark, then naturally more fluid would drain out.

The main thing is that the same amount is poured into the system as was drained. If it fits less, then there is a plug somewhere or other problems in the form of blockages.

Fill the tank with distilled water

Start and warm up the engine to operating temperature.

For 1 minute, keep the engine speed at about 3000 rpm.

Turn the interior heater control to the red zone (maximum heating). Turn on the heater fan and check that hot air is flowing. This means that fluid circulates normally through the heater radiator.

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