VAZ-2114 twitches when driving: reasons, possible problems, advice from mechanics

11.09.2020
Drivers often encounter problems with the smooth running of their cars. Due to jerks at low speeds when driving, an accident can occur when, instead of accelerating, the vehicle refuses to obey. If the car jerks at low speeds, you should look for problems in the power system. At the start, the engine cylinders do not receive the required amount of fuel, and the engine does not have enough power to start the transmission, which resists, jerking is felt when the car is driving slowly. Uneven movement may be due to the breakdown of other mechanisms. Having analyzed the principle of operation of the components, you can promptly eliminate the malfunction without overhauling the entire system.

Manifestation of the problem

As a rule, if the car jerks, this is usually due to various circumstances. Every driver should understand that any non-standard situations do not appear out of nowhere; this may be due to a malfunction of a particular system. In turn, this is usually due to wear and tear on vehicle components. And if you lose sight of this, sooner or later, it can result in serious and costly repairs.

As for when the problem begins to manifest itself, vehicle jerking can be noticed in the following cases:

Only when the car starts moving.
When the engine is running at low speed.
During a sharp increase in speed.
When the car is moving at high crankshaft speeds.
In any mode of vehicle movement, which is manifested by periodic jolts at different times.

But what exactly can cause a vehicle to behave this way? When a VAZ-2114 jerks while driving, there may be several reasons for this, and quite a few. In fact, this is what we will discuss further.

Lost engine thrust: why does this happen and what should the driver do?

As a rule, during the long-term operation of a vehicle, almost every driver sooner or later notices that the engine does not pull well.
In other words, the power unit has difficulty coping with the loads, there is a loss of power, the unit needs to be cranked up to high speeds to maintain the usual pace, the car accelerates worse from a standstill, picks up speed slowly, etc. At the same time, in many cases the engine runs smoothly, does not tremble, there are no increased vibrations, extraneous sounds, knocking or noise during operation of the internal combustion engine. Let us note right away that there is a fairly wide list of possible reasons why a warm engine does not run, and there is a loss of engine power when cold and/or when hot.

In this article we will talk about why the engine does not pull, and also consider the most common malfunctions that manifest themselves in the form of loss of traction of the power unit.

The problem is that when accelerating after 2000 rpm there is a feeling that fuel stops getting into the injectors. The check is not lit, which means there are no errors. The engine is 8 valve. Can anyone tell me where to go?

The pressure in the fuel rail is low, the coolant pump is dying or the fuel filters simply need to be replaced. Well, I had a look at the injectors for spray.

how to do this in a garage? or only in a hundred?

A forum member from Rubtsovka offered you help a long time ago. You've disappeared somewhere.

the mosh valve is burnt out..measure the compression..well, a sophisticated on-board computer is desirable..

By the way, when driving in the rain, the module probably floods... because there are interruptions in 2,, 3 pots... it turns off the forces. stood .. dried .. cleared the errors and flew on. you need to think about how to isolate it from splashes, etc. did anyone have something like this?

in a garage service station. You can try to get confused yourself. You can find everything on YouTube.

sometimes it floods something, I don’t bother. Once he sneezes, the check light comes on for a minute, then goes off and it’s fine. I don’t do anything and won’t. I don’t want to bother with it.

What kind of feeling is this?) and before I actually felt like fuel was pouring like a river into the injectors?)

Describe the problem properly.

Everything should be fine there anyway, in isolation. Look at the wires and connectors. Maybe there is a crack in the MZ body?

To begin with, install the mesh in the tank, you can do it in the yard yourself (wrench 17.7 or 8, pliers, a simple screwdriver and a cross), visually compare it with the new one, and you will understand whether it is very clogged or not. Also change the fine filter (at the bottom of the tank and beam) - a trestle is needed. You can stop by for an express oil change, they will change everything there.

It should help. PS: as they wrote above, I contacted you, if anything happens, I’ll introduce you to normal repairmen (or they’ll just tell you what and how)

What kind of key is this 17.7?)

Do you need a trestle to change the filter? He threw the rag on the ground and crawled under the car.

I’m almost ready to climb under the car on a jack.

At 17, and at 7 or 8 (unscrew the gas tank flap)

Well, yes, let them rack their brains since they don’t want to apply online)))

Yes, with this approach, it’s not at all clear how you got a computer? Previously, they didn’t know it either, and didn’t use it)))

You're doing it right. Providing a reliable support is not a problem. A guy I know got a dozen on his chest. I already wrote in my opinion, although it was a long time ago. Miraculously, he remained alive.

At 17, and at 7 or 8 (unscrew the gas tank flap)

Well, yes, let them rack their brains since they don’t want to apply online)))

It depends on what kind of car it is. The pump cover comes with keys for both 8 and 10 and just plastic on plastic tanks. The tubes come with quick releases or a 17 wrench, but it won’t hurt to hold the mating parts with a 22 wrench. It also won’t hurt to stock up on O-rings right away if the tubes are on nuts.

At 17, and at 7 or 8 (unscrew the gas tank flap)

Well, yes, let them rack their brains since they don’t want to apply online)))

If the engine is 1.6, then you don’t need a key for 17. And the nuts on mine seemed to be 10.

Gee.. Boyanya it turns out already)

Last edited by rmx116; 08/11/2016 at 06:38.

Idle speed sensor

When the driver feels his vehicle begin to jerk, it makes sense to check the condition of the idle speed sensor. At the same time, such a malfunction is very difficult to identify, since often the well-known Check Engine indicator simply does not appear on the dashboard.

For this reason, it is worth checking it first. In this case, the nature of the malfunction may be different. Firstly, the sensor is contaminated with oil, dust, and crankcase gases. Secondly, you should not discount the mechanical nature of the damage - the rod, threaded connections, rivets flying out and other cases. Thirdly, this is a failure of the electrical part.

Injector

The injector is another of the main systems through which the car can twitch while moving. The injection system includes many different devices. It is responsible for the formation and injection of fuel into the cylinders. Unlike a carburetor, an injector is more of an electrical device.

The car may jerk when driving at low speeds or when accelerating for the following reasons:

Injector contamination
Dirty throttle valve
Failed mass air flow sensor
Crankshaft position sensor
ECU

As a rule, all problems that arise with the injector are accompanied by errors in the ECU and a burning chekEngine light on the dashboard.

Supply system

As a rule, the main reason that the VAZ-2114 car jerks when driving is due to a malfunction of the power system.

Usually, experienced car enthusiasts and auto mechanics try to look for the cause here first, and they will be right. While the vehicle is starting to move, insufficient fuel may be supplied to the cylinders. This leads to the development of low power, which is not enough for full operation of the transmission.

In other words, if there is an uneven supply of the fuel-air mixture in the power unit, then it will simply not ignite well. In turn, because of this, the timing of the explosion is disrupted, and the heart of the car begins to malfunction. The driver feels this, which causes a lot of discomfort while driving. What can be done:

Check the functionality of the hall sensor.
Pay attention to the position of the throttle valve.
The condition of the injectors also deserves attention.

In addition, to understand the reason why the VAZ-2114 injector twitches when driving, it is necessary to evaluate the condition of each element of the fuel system. Moreover, regardless of the type of power unit. As experts note, due to depressurization of the pipes, the engine experiences fuel starvation. This is manifested by failures in engine operation. Therefore, it is better not to neglect a thorough check of the pipes!

List of possible causes of power loss

Not every driver, even an experienced one, can quickly answer the question: why the thrust of the VAZ 2114 engine with 8 valves disappeared the first time.

To do this, you need to consider all possible sources of failure:

debris entering the gasoline filter;
clogged fuel pump diaphragm;
malfunction of the sensor that controls air flow;
poor spark plug performance;
malfunction of the ECU (electronic engine control unit);
dusty air filter;
clogged injectors;
complete wear of the clutch disc;
insufficient compression in the cylinders.

Checking the ignition system

In some cases, the car starts to jerk due to some kind of malfunction in the ignition system. As a rule, the problem can be caused by untimely ignition of the fuel mixture. In rare cases, this is due to a weak spark from the spark plug, which in turn is due to low voltage supplied.

Why does the VAZ-2114 jerk when driving? To do this, during diagnostics it is necessary to check:

First of all, the performance of the ignition coil.
Serviceability of spark plugs (it is worth noting that if these elements malfunction, they are replaced as a complete set!).
Pay attention to the condition of high-voltage wires.
Are there any problems with the distributor (ignition distributor).
Condition of the camshaft and crankshaft sensors.

And if the problem is the spark plug, then this is a fairly common and mild case. This type of breakdown is harmless and even a beginner can cope with it. Sometimes the problem may be caused by an incorrect gap between the spark plug contacts, which does not meet established standards.

But if the camshaft position sensor is to blame, then you won’t be able to start the engine at all. In this case, qualified assistance from specialists is necessary.

Analysis of the causes of poor engine traction and possible repairs

Fuel filter dirty

This may be due to low-quality gasoline (containing various small debris) or infrequent cleaning of the fuel tank. In this case, you will have to completely replace the entire filter system.

Fuel pump diaphragm clogged

The cause of the blockage, as a rule, is low-quality gasoline. To clean it, just remove the diaphragm and rinse it thoroughly or blow it with air.

Malfunction of the sensor that controls air flow

This is the most common reason why the VAZ 2114 does not work.

Engine idle speed is too high or low;
intermittent engine idling;
disturbed acceleration dynamics. The car becomes uncontrollable and often freezes.

It is worth periodically checking the operating condition of the air flow meter to avoid wasting time and money diagnosing the engine.

Air filter dust

The more the filter is clogged with dust, the less air flows to the engine, therefore, the thrust decreases. What can be done in this case? Ideally, the filter should be replaced with a new one, but if this is not possible, you should remove the filter, tap and blow to remove large debris (flies, dry leaves, insects).

Maybe it's all about the checkpoint?

Another version of why the VAZ-2114 twitches while driving affects the transmission mechanism. As a rule, this behavior of the car can be caused by improper operation of the engine and lack of regular maintenance of automatic transmissions. With the total mileage of the car from 100 to 200 thousand km, you should not be surprised at its jerks.

Moreover, even if the box looks good on the outside, it doesn’t mean anything. This is mainly due to excess and lack of transmission oil - it will begin to foam, which leads to twitching.

It is worth paying attention to the following elements:

Are the fastenings loose or is there damage to the drive cable?
The shift rod may be damaged.
The locking device is worn out or deformed.
The gear fork is worn out.

It is these elements that are responsible for starting the car to move. Therefore, when a VAZ-2114 car jerks, they are also checked first. Fortunately, repair work on the box does not take too long. In a car service center, they will remove and restore the mechanism in almost a couple of hours.

The accelerator also cannot be discounted

At the moment when the driver sharply presses the accelerator pedal, there is a rapid increase in crankshaft revolutions. However, this may cause the vacuum ignition angle regulators to malfunction. Ultimately, the distributor lags at low speeds, and the car begins to jerk.

As the crankshaft speed increases, the engine needs to work faster, igniting and admitting the fuel-air mixture. However, if there are problems with the vacuum regulators, there may be problems with opening the throttle valve and it will not be possible to quickly increase the speed. As a result, gasoline burns at the wrong time, which can damage the bearing responsible for the ignition timing.

To confirm or refute the problem when the VAZ-2114 jerks while driving, it is worth checking the vacuum regulators. Diagnostics is done like this: before starting the engine, you should remove all the pipes with hoses, first covering them with your hands. While the engine is running, you can hear the retractor effect of the regulators.

However, if a vacuum does not form during the working mixture, then the cause of the leakage lies precisely in the damper. The element needs to be replaced.

When you sharply press the gas, the car jerks VAZ 2115

Why does my car jerk or vibrate when accelerating? Analysis of possible reasons

Sometimes the reason why a car jerks or vibrates during acceleration can be identified without expensive diagnostics and super modern devices. You just need to take a closer look and listen to the operation of the components of your car. Some obvious symptoms will help indicate what exactly is wrong in order to fix the specific problem yourself or by using the services of specialists. And you need to react as quickly as possible, since the consequences for the machine can be very, very serious. Jerking and uneven movement when accelerating for different types of cars can occur quite individually in each specific case. But general trends can still be identified. Let's look at the main ones. Dips and jerking Why does the car jerk or vibrate during acceleration or with a further increase in speed? Does the dip and jerking occur when you press the gas? And during the acceleration process, the engine almost stops working, choking? At the same time, if the speed is gained smoothly, without sharply pressing the pedal, the car behaves quite obediently. There may be a number of reasons for this. In a carburetor car, pay close attention to the filters: air and fuel. We check them for contamination. It’s better, especially if they haven’t been changed for a long time, to remove the old ones and throw them away, and put in new ones. This operation alone can make the car breathe more freely and stop twitching when accelerating. Another reason, if your car uses a carburetor operating principle, is an inconsistent supply of gasoline to the float chamber. Fuel enters it more slowly than needed and quickly disappears, sometimes to the point of shortage. And as we know, the fuel pump supplies fuel to the carburetor. Most likely, the cause of the troubles is him. How to treat this disease? Remove the pump cover, carefully inspecting the valve and hole. The seal (ring) may sometimes pop out or be completely absent. Depressurization causes problems with gasoline injection, and the car begins to twitch while driving. In this case, it is recommended to change the valve and thereby the tightness will be restored. We take a new o-ring and the appropriate tool. Moreover, even for a beginner in this business, the repair will take half an hour at most. The master must do it within 5-10 minutes. If the engine is a gasoline injection engine, then clogged injectors may be the cause of the jerking. Also, you need to check the harness (it can simply fray if it lies directly on the fuel pipe. This incident leads to short circuits in the wiring and disconnection of the injection injectors. Replace the wiring to avoid such problems. Sometimes the reason that the car twitches when picking up speed or speed is low-quality fuel may serve, and in older cars - high air temperature "overboard". That is, the engine can simply overheat, and this is not always clear from the dashboard, which can also act up. In such cases (at least on worked in an old Moskvich) you need to stop, turn off the engine, wet a rag and put it in the area of the fuel pump. After about ten minutes you can drive again. Advice: It is absolutely necessary to try to find the cause of this phenomenon as quickly as possible, since with such a “failure” you cannot drive for a long time This can lead to the failure of more serious components of the car, and besides, it is not profitable: after all, the engine, as a rule, consumes fuel like crazy. Jerks and stalls during acceleration. Attention! You lose safety while traveling. After all, the car may unexpectedly stall, for example, when overtaking, and this is already fraught with an accident. Therefore, this problem must be solved immediately, and it is impossible to operate the car in this condition! As a rule, this is due to improper operation of the electrical system or a lack of gasoline during acceleration. It is necessary to check the corresponding modules (and this is often easier to do on old cars than on new ones, stuffed with electronics). Twitching when the engine is running smoothly It happens that when the engine is running relatively smoothly, the car begins to twitch. Why does the car jerk or vibrate when accelerating in such cases? This phenomenon, as you understand, is no longer associated with the engine. Therefore: we stop the car and check the wheel play. We do this procedure using a jack. Sometimes the cause of twitching can be a poorly secured wheel (or it is not screwed on). In such cases, tighten the fastenings thoroughly and continue moving. AutoFlit.ru

If the engine does not pull (loss of power, dips or jerks)

What to do if the dynamics of the car have decreased significantly, and it is no longer possible to overtake the car so quickly? There can be many reasons for this engine problem, and the main ones are listed in this table.

Possible cause of malfunction	Checking (diagnosis) of a malfunction	Troubleshooting methods
The control impulse from the DPKV arrives at the wrong time due to delamination of the crankshaft damper (the gear has moved relative to the pulley)	Visual inspection of the damper.	Replace damper.
The gap between the spark plug electrodes is not normal	Check the gaps with a feeler gauge.	Set the required gap by bending the side electrode, or replace the spark plugs (see which spark plugs to choose).
Heavy carbon deposits on spark plugs	Visual inspection.	Clean the spark plugs. Identify and eliminate the cause of soot formation. If necessary, replace the spark plugs (see which spark plugs to choose).
Non-functional spark plugs.	Candles are checked on a special stand.	Replace the spark plugs (see which spark plugs to choose).
There is no gasoline in the fuel tank	The fuel level indicator shows an empty tank. Determine the presence of gasoline by removing the fuel pump.	Pour gasoline into the tank.
The fuel filter is clogged, the water in the engine power system is frozen, the fuel line is pinched, or the fuel pump is faulty	The starter cranks the crankshaft, but there is no smell of gasoline coming from the exhaust pipe. (Carburetor) There is no gasoline in the float chamber of the carburetor - when you press the gas pedal there is no jet of fuel from the accelerator pump nozzle. (Injector) The presence of gasoline (under pressure) in the fuel rail can be checked by briefly pressing the spool of the fitting at the end of the rail (see about pressure in the fuel system).	Warm up the car and blow out the power system (with a tire pump). Replace the fuel pump, hoses and tubes.
The fuel pump does not create the required pressure in the fuel system	Check the pressure at the outlet of the fuel pump (see about pressure in the fuel system). Check the fuel pump filter.	Clean the fuel pump filter. Replace the fuel filter (see which filter to choose) and the fuel pump, which does not provide the required pressure.
Poor contact in the fuel pump power circuit or its relay is faulty	Checked with an ohmmeter. Check the "mass".	Clean the contacts, crimp the terminals, replace the relay (see mounting block) and wires.
Faulty injectors or their circuits	Check the injector windings and their circuits with an ohmmeter for open circuits and short circuits. The ECU is diagnosed at a service station.	Replace the faulty ECU (see ECU interchangeability). Clean the injectors or replace them with new ones (see which injectors to choose). Ensure contact in electrical circuits.
Inoperative crankshaft position sensor (CPS) or its circuit	The “Check engine” lamp is on. Check the DPKV circuit, the absence of damage to the sensor itself and the gap between it and the crankshaft damper ring gear (1±0.2 mm). Sensor resistance is 500–700 Ohms.	Restore contact in electrical circuits, replace the faulty sensor.
Inoperative coolant temperature sensor (DTOZH).	The “Check engine” lamp is on. If there is a break in the DTOZH or its circuit, the electric fan of the cooling system runs continuously. Check the DTOZH.	Restore contact in the electrical circuits, replace the faulty sensor.
The throttle position sensor (TPS) or its circuit is faulty	The “Check engine” lamp is on. If there is a break in the circuit or sensor, the engine speed does not drop below 1500.	Clean the throttle assembly, restore contact in the electrical circuits, replace the faulty sensor.
Inoperative mass air flow sensor (MAF)	Check the mass air flow sensor, or replace the sensor with a known good one.	Clean the mass air flow sensor, replace if necessary (see which mass air flow sensor to choose).
Inoperative knock sensor	If the wire is broken, the “Check engine” lamp lights up. There is no detonation in any mode. Loss of engine power.	Restore contact in electrical circuits, replace the faulty sensor.
Inoperative oxygen sensor or circuit	"Check engine" light is on. The integrity of the heating coil is checked with an ohmmeter, the output voltage is checked with a voltmeter (the voltmeter should be connected without breaking the circuit, for example, by piercing the wires with thin needles).	Repair the oxygen sensor. Restore the wiring, clean the air leak hole. Replace the oxygen sensor.
Leakage of the exhaust system (area up to the oxygen sensor)	Visual inspection at medium engine speed.	Replace the exhaust manifold gasket, tighten the seals (see replacing the exhaust manifold).
The engine control unit (ECU) and its circuits are faulty	Check the 12V voltage at the ECU. Replace the unit with a known good one.	Replace the ECU (see ECU interchangeability), wiring.
Inoperative fuel pressure regulator (FPR)	Check the pressure in the fuel rail.	Replace the regulator (see which regulator to choose).
The clearances in the valve drive are not adjusted (8-valve engines)	Check with a set of feeler gauges.	Adjust valve clearances.
Loose or broken valve springs (8-valve engines)	Inspection, measurement of the length of springs in a free state and under load.	Replace weak or broken springs.
Wear of camshaft cams/shafts	Visual inspection.	Replace camshaft.
The valve timing is off	Check the alignment of the marks on the crankshaft and camshaft.	Establish the correct relative position of the shafts (according to the marks).
Low compression in the cylinders (wear or damage to valves, seats, wear, sticking or breakage of piston rings)	Check compression in cylinders.	Replace rings and pistons. Cylinder repair.
(Carburetor) Engine is not warmed up	According to the temperature indicator	Warm up the engine at medium speed to operating temperature.
(Carburetor) Insufficient fuel level in the carburetor float chamber	—	Adjust the fuel level.
(Carburetor) The carburetor trigger or drive is faulty or not adjusted.	—	Adjust the starter or replace it.
(Carburetor) Excessive fuel level in carburetor float chamber	There is a strong smell of gasoline from the exhaust pipe; a cold engine starts better than a hot one. Remove the top cover of the carburetor and check the integrity of the floats, their ease of movement and the absence of touching the walls of the float chamber. To check the tightness of the needle valve, turn the carburetor cover with the floats up and pump up gasoline using the fuel pump lever. Gasoline leakage from under the needle or valve base is unacceptable.	Replace the needle valve. Adjust the fuel level in the float chamber.
(Carburetor) Over-rich mixture due to gasoline leaking into the engine crankcase through a torn fuel pump diaphragm	The oil on the dipstick smells like gasoline. The low oil pressure light comes on at idle speed.	Replace the fuel pump or diaphragm. Change the oil if it contains a lot of gasoline.
(Carburetor) The carburetor jets and passages are clogged. The jets and solenoid valve are not tightly wrapped	Inspect and blow out the channels and jets.	Wash with gasoline or acetone and blow out the jets. If they are heavily soiled, clean them with a fishing line or a soft wood needle.
Incomplete opening of the throttle valve/flaps	Inspection with the engine stopped.	Adjust the throttle valve drive.
(Carburetor) Accelerator pump or nozzle not working, carburetor fuel passages clogged	Check the pump supply and make sure there is no leakage of gasoline from under the diaphragm. Make sure that the accelerator pump lever moves freely.	Replace damaged parts, tighten threaded connections, and blow out valves.
(Carburetor) Incorrect ignition timing	—	Adjust the ignition timing.
(Carburetor) Wear, damage to the contact carbon in the ignition distributor cap. The coal spring has weakened	Visual inspection.	Replace the distributor cap or the angle with the spring.
(Carburetor) The resistor in the ignition distributor rotor has burned out	Checked with an ohmmeter (1 kOhm).	Replace resistor or rotor.
(Carburetor) Commutator faulty	Testing is carried out by installing a known-good switch.	Replace the switch.
(Carburetor) Weakening or breakage of the springs of the weights of the centrifugal automatic ignition distributor, the damper rings of the weights are lost, the weights are stuck	Visually and at a special stand.	Replace the ignition distributor.
(Carburetor) Fuzzy operation of the vacuum ignition timing regulator; when the vacuum is removed, the plate does not return to its original position, there is large play in the bearing	Determined by visual inspection. The characteristics of the vacuum regulator are measured on a special stand.	Eliminate the jam, replace the faulty vacuum regulator or ignition distributor.
(Carburetor) The fuel pump does not create the required pressure in the system	—	Replace the fuel pump or its diaphragms.

Still haven't found the answer to your question and are still experiencing engine problems?
Use the special section on the forum (the engine jerks/jerks and the engine pulls poorly). xn--2111-43da1a8c.xn--p1ai

Why does the car stall when accelerating? List of main reasons and ways to solve them

Owners of many cars, especially those with mileage and not entirely new, may ask themselves a fairly common question: why does a car stall when accelerating? Dullness, as a phenomenon, can be caused by a lot of reasons, indicating any malfunctions in the engine unit, or in the electrical circuit of the car, its fuel system, or the ignition system, and even in the mechanics. But first, let's talk about what kind of car you own: carburetor or injection. Because, as they say, the phenomenon is one, but the reasons and symptoms for cars of the first and second types can sometimes be different due to their structural differences. Why does a car stall when accelerating, and what are the reasons that it picks up speed so poorly or, even worse makes unruly jerks when pressing on the gas? Let's list the main ones that are possible for carburetor and injection cars. Carburetor VAZs, Volgas, Muscovites and Tavrias First of all, we check the operation of the carburetor itself, since due to its unstable functioning the car can become dull. Let's try to clean this one of the main spare parts by removing the cover and using a spray bottle with a special product. Spray it well everywhere, including the jets, and let it sit for about 15 minutes to thoroughly acidify. Wipe and rinse additionally with gasoline and a rag from the inside. But, as a rule, such executions carried out independently in most cases do not lead to a positive result. Related articles:

How to blow out a carburetor;
How to adjust a Solex carburetor.

It’s not for nothing that the profession of a carburetor mechanic was so in demand back in the USSR, and a good master had a waiting list for several days in advance. Therefore, if the body movements you made did not help, then find a good specialist and surrender to him. He will properly adjust the carburetor, and the car will sound like new! The second thing we check is the fuel pump. The mesh may become clogged there. Or perhaps the fuel filter is clogged. In these cases, clean and replace accordingly. What else can be done if the car continues to stall when accelerating? Unscrew the spark plugs and carefully look at their carbon deposits (old and sooty ones - change them or, at worst, clean them with a wire brush), buy and install new silicone wires if they have not been changed for a long time, or if you recently purchased a used car. Related articles:

Signs of a faulty fuel pump;
Why does the fuel pump fuse blow?
All about checking the fuel pump pressure.

Sometimes a correctly set ignition helps eliminate these defects.
Therefore, you yourself (or with the help of a neighbor in the garage who knows everything) set the ignition to the appropriate marks. For these purposes, you can look into a book about your car and read how to do it correctly. It happens that problems arise with the spark or with the supply of air and fuel mixture. There may also be flaws in the operation of the engine (troits or jerks). All this is also checked if your car stalls during acceleration, and there is some kind of dip when you press the gas. Also, especially in very cold weather, the cause of dullness may be insufficient heating of the engine. In these cases, before driving, warm up the engine thoroughly to operating temperature, and then start driving. Injection cars If your car uses the injection principle, then you can check for faults using special diagnostic equipment. This is available at any service station that respects its reputation. Dullness and jerking during acceleration may be associated with insufficient fuel pressure, failure of the air flow sensors and throttle position sensors. But if the vehicle is not accelerating, the jerking may be more likely due to the fact that the ignition system is acting up. In this case, it is also recommended to carry out computer diagnostics of the components and, if necessary, repair the ignition. If troubles arise along the way, you can independently check the contacts with the wires on the ignition coils. Also, when starting the engine with the hood open, listen to the operation. The crackling sound of electricity during a breakdown should be clearly audible, if any. And in the dark, a spark is also visible at the breakdown. You can move around this way, but carefully, to the nearest service station. If, in general, the engine power has decreased (it accelerates poorly, climbs hills poorly), then perhaps you should listen to the sound of it idling. Signs such as a change in the exhaust sound, shaking of the engine, an increase in fuel appetite, floating speed, jerking and dullness during acceleration may indicate that one of the engine cylinders has failed. Naturally, the power decreases, operation becomes unstable and, as a result, the car picks up speed poorly. Here the matter smells like engine repair, and this is already very serious. Results: As you can see, there can be a lot of reasons why the car stalls during acceleration. They vary in nature and in difficulty of elimination. In any case, if this happens to a car, it is not recommended to drive like this for a long time. We need to quickly understand the essence of the problem that has arisen. AutoFlit.ru

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Air filter?

As is known, the formation of an engine working mixture requires a certain amount of air in which oxygen is present. And without it, the combustion process itself is impossible. In a car, before entering the working chamber, the air passes through the labyrinths of the filter and only after that it combines with the fuel mixture, forming just the working composition.

However, if this element is contaminated, the car may also begin to jerk while driving or when starting off. As a result, the flow decreases significantly and there is simply no longer enough air in the required quantity. This risks the working mixture becoming rich in fuel and burning incorrectly.

As a result of this, the VAZ-2114 jerks when driving, and in some cases there may be misfires.

Another filter - fuel

If everything is in order with the air filter, this does not mean that the fuel cell is “crystal clean”. It is worth checking its condition, because as you know, before the fuel enters the cylinder, where it then burns, releasing energy, it also undergoes cleaning. In most cases, this is also the main problem why the car starts to jerk.

The filter element serves to remove various impurities from the fuel, which do not disappear anywhere, but simply accumulate here. And over time, it begins to clog, and gradually its capacity begins to decrease. As a result, this also leads to “fuel starvation” of the engine. We already know its symptom - the car jerking.

Checking filters

The fuel system of a modern car is equipped with at least three filters. The first of them is, in fact, just a mesh that serves to trap solid particles. It is placed in the neck of the tank, but it is not capable of becoming clogged to such an extent that fuel does not enter the cylinders. In this regard, this filter cannot be the reason that the VAZ-2114 twitches when driving.

The other element is mounted on the fuel pump, which is submerged in the tank. This is the same grid, only with smaller cells. However, the functions are basically the same - to retain large debris. For this reason, it is also clear that it is also not capable of becoming very clogged.

The third element is located after the fuel pump, and it is this filter (it serves for fine cleaning) that can become so clogged that the pump will one day stop coping with its duties.

At the same time, some models may have several additional filters installed. And they may well cause the car to jerk.

Is it worth it to blame the carburetor?

The car may stall at idle due to problems with the carburetor If you have a carburetor engine, then 9 out of 10, the car stalls at idle precisely because of problems with the carburetor. The simplest option is that it is clogged. In part, this is a very simple and reliable element, but it needs to be cleaned constantly.

Any speck that has leaked through the filter system can seriously ruin the operation of the engine and raise many questions not only in the mind of an amateur, but also among service station specialists.

It is recommended to wash the carburetor in special solvents, which are easy to purchase at auto supply stores. The aforementioned aerosol cleaner will also come to the rescue.