Why does the steering wheel click when turning? Why do you hear clicking noises when you turn the steering wheel while driving? Let's look at possible reasons

Normal operation of the steering system should not be accompanied by extraneous sounds, such as knocking or clicking noises when turning the steering wheel. The appearance of such symptoms indicates the likelihood of wear of components of one of the most important active safety systems of the car, or other components of the chassis that are driven along with the rotation of the steering wheel.

Possible causes of extraneous sounds when turning the steering wheel:

wear of the steering rack drive shaft cardan crosspieces
play in the splined connection of the rack drive shaft
wear of the steering rack supports
biting the steering rack rod
radial play of the steering column shaft
moisture ingress and corrosion of the lower ball joint
wheel drive grenade malfunction
violation of the integrity of the spring

What are the possible steering problems?

Practice shows that the most common and characteristic malfunction is wear of the ball joints of the tie rod ends.

But besides this, there are other problems:

Deterioration (wear) of rack and pinion mechanism elements.
Violation of the tightness of connections, hoses and the system as a whole.
Worn or defective steering shaft bearings.

In cars that are equipped with power steering, there may also be problems with the power steering:

System clogged.
Destruction or wear of the vane pump shaft bearing.
Loss of tightness of connections and hoses.
Weak drive belt tension.
Low level or oil leak in the expansion tank.

A fairly common problem among motorists is when a knocking, clicking or crunching sound is heard when turning the steering wheel. It may knock constantly, or maybe only after the car has been parked for a long time. Such a nuisance can happen even to those motorists who monitor the condition of the car and replace worn parts in a timely manner. You should take this symptom seriously and fix the problem as soon as possible.

On video: Knock when turning the steering wheel - CV joint or tri-thorn - grease has leaked

Quick Guide

The main reason for tapping is the formation of a gap in the joints. In the steering system, there may be knocking on the tips, ball joints of the rods, the rack, the “cardan” in the column, the steering wheel on the shaft, or the auto-folding system in case of an accident. The metallic sound is distinct and can be heard in place when rocking the steering wheel.

It is quite possible to mistake problems in the suspension for problems in the steering, since the initial stages of wear of bearings and supports only make themselves felt when cornering at speed. In the suspension part, the cause of the knock should be sought in the wheel bearings, ball joints and “supports”.

Sources used:

https://autoabra.com/mech/pri-povorote-rulja-slyshny-shhelchki/
https://mytopgear.ru/interesting/chassis/pochemu-slyishno-shhelchki-v-rulevoy-kolonke-pri-povorote-rulya/
https://autoflit.ru/2148-pochemu-razdayutsya-schelchki-pri-povorote-rulya-v-dvizhenii-razbiraem-vozmozhnye-prichiny.html
https://autobann.su/stuk-pri-povorote-rulja.html

Possible causes and methods of eliminating knocking

The ball joint fails.
It needs to be replaced, as it may rupture and the car will have to be dragged by a tow truck (the wheel will be turned unnaturally inward or outward and it will be impossible to drive).
The grenade malfunctions
. Moreover, when turning left, the right grenade is loaded and vice versa. Accordingly, if you hear a knock when turning the steering wheel to the left, change the right grenade.
Worn stabilizer bushings may knock or creak
. The problem can be easily solved: you need to spray the bushings with silicone grease. The rubber will become more elastic and the squeaking or knocking noise will go away.
A knocking noise may occur if the steering rack is faulty or weakened
. This may cause vibration in the steering wheel. It is necessary to tighten the rack fastenings or have the rack diagnosed at a service station and repair or replace spare parts.
The engine crankcase protection bolts may become loose
. Although this does not happen often, an undetected problem can bring a lot of unpleasant moments. The solution is to simply tighten the bolts. If the bolt thread is stripped, replace the bolt. You may have to update the thread with a tap.
If the knocking noise appears after replacing the wheel, then the possible cause of the knocking noise will be insufficiently tightened wheel bolts.
Over time, vibration is added to the knocking. The problem is solved in a minute - by tightening the bolts to the required force.
A cracked or broken spring may be making a knocking noise.
Unfortunately, the quality of spare parts has presented motorists with such a problem in recent years. The solution is to replace the cracked spring.
Worn or leaking shock absorbers
may “kick” when turning the steering wheel to the right or left, that is, they cannot hold the load and sag under the weight of the car with a knock. The solution is diagnostics and replacement of the shock absorber. You can diagnose it yourself. To do this, you need to sharply press with both hands on the wing in the area of the shock absorber and also sharply release. Observe not only when the knocking appears, but also how much oscillation the car makes after pressing on one side or the other.

Many drivers quite often encounter such a problem that when turning the steering wheel, clicks or knocks are heard. This situation can occur in both old and new cars; it is quite common. Any driver can determine the source of these clicks without contacting a service station. This saves time and money. If the car owner has at least some repair skills, then he can fix the problem himself, spending only on new spare parts.

If the steering wheel clicks when turning, and this sound is heard with every maneuver performed, then first you need to determine the nature of the sound. If the sound is clear and ringing, then this indicates the presence of a metal-to-metal impact. If the sound is less clear, muffled, then this is more likely a contact of metal and plastic. In addition, it is necessary to determine at least the approximate location where the sound comes from. This will not only reduce the troubleshooting area, but will also help to at least approximately determine the breakdown.

The simplest cause of clicking noises in the steering wheel is incorrect tire pressure. If they are too different from each other, clicks may appear in the steering column when turning the steering wheel. In addition, the cause may be torn off fender liners.

If you hear clicks in the steering wheel, check the pressure in the wheels and the condition of the fender liners.

If the screws have been torn out, then the torn fender liner will cling to the tire and dangle, making clicking noises when turning the steering wheel left and right.

These breakdowns can be quickly and easily fixed: properly inflate the wheels and screw on the wheel arch liners.

However, there are more serious reasons for knocking in the steering wheel. For example, a malfunction of the steering mechanism is quite dangerous, then clicks are heard directly in it. You can also check the car yourself by arriving at the overpass and carefully examining the suspension.

First of all, the condition of the steering tips is assessed. If the boot of such a tip is damaged, dust and sand will get inside, as a result of which the part will begin to wear out quickly. And then there will be a backlash - the source of clicks and knocking. This reason can be identified by loosening the steering rod, for example, with a pry bar. If in this case there is knocking and play, the tip must be replaced. In addition, it is recommended to replace two tips at once, since any tip develops a slight play over time. And if you replace one (install without play) and leave the old one (with play), then the car will run unevenly, and noise and knocking will also be noticeable. In addition, the wheel alignment may constantly go astray.

Checking the condition of the car suspension

Steering rod silent blocks can also cause clicking noises. Wear of silent blocks and delamination of rubber can even produce clicks when turning the steering wheel in place and while driving. If this is the cause of the knocking, then the silent blocks must be replaced.

If the steering wheel clicks when turning, check the tie rod ends and tie rods.

When the rack bushings wear out, a knocking noise in the steering wheel may also occur. There is a small gap between the rack and gear. Sometimes it is possible to eliminate the gap using an adjusting bolt. If this does not help, then the worn bushings need to be replaced. The clicking noises may come from the steering column shaft. If damaged, it may make strange sounds. It just needs to be replaced. Clicks in the suspension when turning the steering wheel may indicate a broken outer CV joint. Then they will only appear when turning. If clicks occur when going uphill, then the inner CV joint is faulty. It is also easy to determine this breakdown: you need to drive the car onto an overpass and check the boots. If they do not fit well, the clamps are torn or have come off, then dirt has gotten inside the CV joint, and therefore it has failed. You should not delay the replacement, since over time the CV joint may completely turn out, then the car will need to be delivered to the repair site by tow truck or tow truck.

The cause of clicking noises when turning may be a faulty CV joint.

If clicks when turning are heard along with the characteristic hum of the wheels, then the problem lies in the wheel bearing. One of the most dangerous malfunctions, it is better to immediately replace the bearings, and if the driver is forced to drive such a car, then the speed should not exceed 80 km/h.

Why is the power steering humming and how to fix it

Despite the apparent simplicity of the design of the power steering, this system has a rather complex operating principle. It is precisely an auxiliary element of the steering, and if it fails, complete failure of the steering wheel will not occur, but it will become more difficult to control the car. It is especially dangerous when the power steering stops working while the car is moving, and it is difficult for the driver to instantly get used to the “heaviness” of turning the steering wheel, which is caused by the reduced maneuverability of the car.

If the power steering hums when turning, there are several reasons for this:

Reduced power steering fluid level. If the driver does not control the fluid level in the power steering, the problem with the appearance of extraneous sounds when the steering wheel rotates may arise precisely because of its low level. In such a situation, you need to replace the fluid in the system and carry out diagnostics, determining why its level has decreased. Most often, power steering oil leaks due to problems with the rack or pump;
Low quality fluid in the power steering reservoir. There are consumables for cars that you cannot skimp on, and hydraulic booster oil is one of them. Its cost is not so high that you should choose the cheapest options for replacement, and saving on consumable fluid can result in serious system breakdowns that will require the replacement of expensive parts.

If the oil in the hydraulic power steering has exhausted its service life, it should be replaced. Replacing a high-quality fluid is required approximately once every two years (or every 70-80 thousand mileage). There is a household method for analyzing power steering fluid to determine its suitability. To find out if it needs replacement, unscrew the cap of the power steering reservoir and use a syringe (or pipette) to draw out some of the oil that is in it. Next, drop it onto white paper and look at the color. “Clean” power steering fluid should not be black or brown. Acceptable colors are: burgundy, raspberry or red. Be sure to check the smell of the power steering fluid; it should not smell like burnt rubber.

Faults related to the steering rack. One of the most unpleasant problems, due to which the power steering may begin to hum when turning the steering wheel. If the fault lies in the rack, you will need to have the rack and power steering diagnosed at a service center. In some situations, an expensive steering rack replacement may be required. The hydraulic booster drive belt is poorly tensioned. If the power steering belt is loose or very worn, a hum may occur when the steering wheel is turned. In such a situation, the driver can independently purchase a new belt and replace it;

Air entering the power steering system. There are two common reasons why air can get into the system: ingress during fluid replacement and air leakage through loosely connected system components. When such a problem occurs, it is necessary to discover its cause and eliminate it. After this, it is necessary to flush the power steering system, change the oil to a new one and properly bleed the system so that there is no air left in it

Please note that when air enters the power steering, the fluid in the reservoir begins to foam. Damage to the power steering pump. This fault is easier to identify than others.

This fault is easier to identify than others.

Damage to the power steering pump. This fault is easier to identify than others.

When the power steering pump breaks, the system actually stops working, which is why the steering wheel becomes “stiff”, along with this, a hum begins to appear when turning the steering wheel. Most often, problems with the pump occur due to a malfunction of the impeller, bearing or seals. Repair of the power steering pump is performed extremely rarely, and if it fails, the part will need to be replaced.

Most of the reasons that lead to a humming noise in the power steering when turning can be diagnosed and corrected independently. However, it is better not to let the situation lead to serious problems, and to operate the system correctly.

Additional symptoms

Causes of clicks in the steering column

As we see, there can be many reasons for clicks in the steering wheel. Suspicious symptoms may include the hum of wheels, tapping, ringing, crackling, etc. In addition, it is always necessary to monitor the behavior of the car itself. If there is one breakdown or another, the car will not behave as usual on the road. If the tip or bushing breaks, the car may “wobble” while driving. If the CV joint is faulty, the clicking will increase over time to an unpleasant grinding sound. The car will always show what is wrong with it.

Why does the tread eat unevenly?

Look under the front bumper from the front of the car - the wheels are not perpendicular to the road, but slightly inclined. Some inside, some outside. In general, the collapse, and what you see in this plane is called that way, can be positive and negative. It’s easier to figure out which one is which by looking at the photo.

Why not place the wheels rigidly straight in all planes? Why all these adjustments in the suspension? Here is a table showing what role each angle plays.

Purpose of suspension settings

Name

What provides

Camber Increases the area of contact between the tire and the road

Toe-in Compensates for the elastic movement of suspension parts (silent blocks and other rubber bands)

Caster Helps return the steering wheel to its original position

Deviations from these angles are not allowed, otherwise the tire will be eaten from one side. However, the suspension is not always to blame. A banal difference in tire pressures also does not lead to anything good. What exactly is the reason will be revealed by the nature of the “zhora” of the wheel, photos of which you have already looked at.

Ways to eliminate clicks in the steering wheel

As mentioned above, all malfunctions associated with clicks in the steering wheel can be eliminated by an ordinary driver. It is enough to identify the fault and either replace the broken part or rebuild it. There is nothing complicated here. The steering wheel is one of the most important parts of the car. Any malfunctions, sounds, or clicks that arise should be immediately attended to. The steering must always be in good working order. Clicking noises in the steering wheel are a signal that there is a problem with the steering. Therefore, you should not forget about them and not pay attention to them. Take care of your car.

Often, motorists operating domestically produced cars are faced with a rather unpleasant problem, characterized by the occurrence of a knock at the bottom of the front part of the vehicle when the steering wheel is turned. The first solution that comes to a car enthusiast’s mind is to contact a specialized car service center. However, it has several significant disadvantages. For example, there is no guarantee of a positive result or significant financial costs. That’s why we recommend trying to figure out the problem yourself.

Prevention

Like all mechanisms in a car, the steering system requires timely care. In order not to look for information on how to eliminate steering rack knocking, you need to perform a number of operations.

The first step is to periodically lubricate all mechanisms and monitor the condition of the boot and other protective rubber bands. In addition, you need to drive the car correctly, which will help not only the control system last longer, but also the entire chassis. So, in order to extend the life of the chassis and control system, under no circumstances should you suddenly stop and accelerate on uneven roads. At this moment, the wheels are hit with a force equal to the weight of the entire car at enormous speed. In addition, at this moment the driver will not be very comfortable moving like this, because there will be a lot of shaking in the cabin. The best option would be to brake smoothly in front of a hole on the road and smoothly drive out of it.

Firstly, this driving style will help the car last longer, and secondly, it will help save fuel. The next thing to do is pay attention to how you stop near the curb. When entering a parking space, you must not hit the curb.

The explanation for this prohibition is that the wheel at this moment receives a strong blow, and all the force goes to the steering system, first of all traction suffers. It should be noted that the rod is also considered an important component in the steering system; it is needed to transfer rotation to the wheels from the steering rack.

Causes of knocking noise when turning the steering wheel

So, let’s diagnose the knocking noise that occurs when turning the steering wheel. To do this, we perform several preliminary manipulations:

Wash the front suspension elements with a stream of water.
Place the vehicle on a pit or lift it on a lift.
Clean the joints (twists) with a stiff brush.
Conduct a visual inspection of the front suspension elements.

The following items must be included in the visual inspection list:

checking the mounting of the anti-roll bar;
monitoring the condition of the support cushions of the struts;
control of fastening of suspension elements;
checking the condition of silent blocks of the lever, fastening of rods, braces, etc.;
monitoring the state of the compression stroke buffer (for destruction), which can generate a knock;
checking the degree of wear of the suspension arm hinge and lower arm joints.

The next step in determining the source that generates the knocking noise heard when turning the steering wheel is to monitor the condition of the springs. As a result of “settling,” deformation, or breakage of the spiral turns, a clearly audible dull knock appears.

Another reason for knocking in the area of the front suspension of a vehicle may be deformation or insufficient fastening of the plastic protection of the wheel arch of the car.

When the steering wheel is turned, loose fragments of the protection engage with the CV joint boot and produce sounds similar to knocking. Despite its insignificance, this defect requires fairly prompt elimination, since only in this case there is confidence that it will not cause other, more serious defects. For example, attaching the arch protection directly to the “skirt” of the bumper makes it possible for it (the bumper) to be damaged when the protection is deformed.

The presence of a characteristic, “gurgling” knock when turning the steering wheel indicates that the permissible degree of wear on the tie rod ends has been exceeded.

Failure to take timely measures to replace worn steering tips threatens a chain reaction of loss of performance of the steering mechanism elements, the consequence of which, in the worst case, will be an accident, at best, significant financial costs.

Attention! After replacing the tie rod ends, wheel alignment must be adjusted.
Another fairly common cause of a knocking sound that occurs when turning the steering wheel is increased wear of the support bearing (upper) shock absorber strut. A special predisposition to this disease is observed in Prior and Kalin. The solution to the problem is to replace the bearing. The positive aspect of this shortcoming is the relatively small material and time costs of eliminating it.
The combination of knocking and humming noise, which simultaneously occurs when turning the steering wheel to the right (left), signals the loss of functionality of the hub bearing of one of the front wheels of the vehicle. It should be noted that failure of both bearings at the same time is by no means a rare occurrence. This is truly serious. The difficulty of repair work lies in the need to “press out” the worn bearing from its seat in the hub.
This diagnosis presupposes not only long-term, but also quite expensive “treatment”, and untimely measures usually end in the complete destruction of the front suspension elements of the vehicle.

Crunching sound (steering wheel turns when driving; car with front-wheel drive)

It happens that when the direction of movement of the car changes, a strong crunching sound is heard. The greater the turning speed and the narrower the radius, the more pronounced it is. There is a feeling that the steering wheel does not play any role here, and that it is the turn itself that is to blame, that the crunch is heard in the area of the loaded wheel (remember that this is the wheel from the outer radius of the turning curve). Most often, this picture is characteristic of turning only in one direction.

Only all-wheel drive vehicles or vehicles with front-wheel drive suffer from such problems. The culprit for this is the constant velocity joint, which in our country is called the “grenade”.

This hinge is a prefabricated element that serves to rotate the front wheel along any axes at a certain angle, without losing the constant speed of the axle. When the car moves, the CV joint rotates all the time, experiencing heavy loads. From time to time, this part runs out of service prematurely, in which case it will need to be replaced.

Checking the “grenade” looks like this. The steering wheel must be turned to one side all the way. After this, you should start moving the car in a circle - in one direction, then in the other. The crunching noise heard during such an operation means that the CV joint is the culprit. If there is vibration that may accompany such a crunching noise, the car must be taken to a professional mechanic without delay.

The machine is not the simplest mechanism. Its steering system and suspension include a huge mass of elements. The suspension and steering differ in their functionality, design, and elements (and differences may appear from model to model; differences may even exist in modifications). For this reason, various noises do not need to be produced only for the reasons described above. For example, noise can be caused by the steering rack, steering column, steering knuckles, struts and joints. An old, falling-off element, which is not directly related to either the suspension or steering, can touch parts of the above systems during a turning maneuver or on road irregularities, causing noise.

In any case, the main thing you need to do when you hear an extraneous sound accompanying the turning of the steering wheel is to determine the other signs accompanying the noise (the car is pulling to the side, a more specific definition of noise). After this, it is necessary to check each boot of the suspension and steering systems, inspect the steering wheel, and check for play.

Video - What to do if you hear a knock when turning

And finally, the reason that is heard by the vast majority of motorists is damage to the constant velocity joint, or CV joint. Wear of the element itself initiates a sound more like a “crack”, but damage to the CV joint boot, which, in fact, leads to premature failure of the hinge itself, “gives birth” to sounds that are often mistaken for a knock. The most effective method of preventing this defect is regular (at least once a month) inspection of the condition of the anthers and immediate replacement if ruptures are detected. This habit will significantly save you not only time, but also money.

At the first stage of owning a personal vehicle, the owner is focused mainly on the traffic situation. Over time, you come to understand certain features of your car. It becomes possible to independently diagnose car breakdowns (a knocking sound appears when turning the steering wheel, for example).

Corrosion damage to the lower ball joint

A rusty lower ball joint, which bears a significant load, can produce characteristic clicks and a fairly loud squeak when turning. The reason is mechanical damage to the boot and moisture ingress, which leads to leaching of the lubricant. In addition to the creaking, there is usually already some play in the connection, formed as a result of friction of the rusty ball against the plastic seal. As a result of the play, a clearly audible knocking sound occurs when driving over uneven surfaces. A ball joint damaged by corrosion must be replaced.

Self-diagnosis: easy to master

This, of course, does not happen immediately, but with the acquisition of experience, a person with a minimal inclination towards technology can easily identify a number of standard breakdowns of his car. To some extent, the skill of self-diagnosis is also due to the high cost of maintenance, and sometimes to the incompetence of specialized personnel at the service station.

Typically, the ability to correctly identify car breakdowns will be useful to you in any case, regardless of the chosen car brand. First of all, it suffers - most often due to bad roads. We will try to understand the reasons for the rapid wear of the chassis of today's popular brands. We will describe possible options for their breakdowns, learn how to diagnose them based on symptoms (a knock in the steering wheel when turning, for example), and also consider options for quick and preventive maintenance of your “iron horses.”

We determine which CV joint crunches, the inner or outer one

Several methods are used to diagnose CV joints. The simplest of them is a visual inspection of the anthers and checking the shafts.

The main cause of problems associated with the appearance of crunching is the ingress of dirt into the nodes, which can only occur due to damage to the boot.

If the rubber element is torn, then upon inspection there will be traces of leaking lubricant on it, from which you can understand which of the units got sand and dust.

Also, during inspection, you should try to move the drive shaft in the transverse and longitudinal directions by hand. CV joints are highly precision-manufactured units, and if it feels like they have play, it’s time to take action.

If, during a visual inspection, no leaks in the boot are detected, but symptoms of a joint malfunction appear, several simple methods can be used to identify which of the CV joints is problematic.

Signs of a faulty front strut support bearing and how to replace it

Diagnostics of external hinges

External hinges are tested by placing a strong load on them. To do this, simply turn the wheels all the way to the right or left and try to start moving at higher speeds. Afterwards, we carry out the same procedure again, but this time when turning the wheels in the other direction.

When checking CV joints using this method, starting to move with the wheels turning to the left will create a significant load on the right unit, and if it has play, it will begin to crunch.

By turning the wheels to the right, the left hinge is checked. But we note that a crunching noise can also be produced by the outer CV joint on the side where the turn is being made.

Therefore, when checking, it would not be superfluous to have an assistant present, who, being near the car, will establish by ear which side the sound is coming from.

Checking internal components

To determine which inner CV joint is crunching, a different method is used. To carry it out, you need a flat section of the road, but with a bump (hole).

The essence of the test comes down to driving through a hole at a moderate speed with one of the front wheels. Then everything is repeated, but with the second wheel entering the hole.

When a wheel hits a bump, a shock load occurs on the inner joint, and if there is play in it, they will manifest themselves in the form of knocks or soft crunches.

Universal method

The only drawback of the method of driving into a hole at speed is the fact that there is not always a suitable section of road with a bump. Therefore, another method can be used for diagnostics, and it is universal and allows you to check both internal and external CV joints.

The algorithm of actions is as follows:

Use a jack to jack up one of the drive wheels;
We place a stop under the car and apply the handbrake;
We start the engine, engage first gear and gradually release the clutch pedal (we simulate the beginning of movement. At the same time, thanks to the differential, the suspended wheel will begin to rotate, and the one standing on the ground will remain motionless);
Having gained engine speed, we begin to slow down the rotating wheel with the brakes (we do not touch the clutch pedal. Thus, with the brake mechanisms we create a load on the internal unit, and if it is problematic, it will immediately manifest itself with knocks and crunches);
After checking the internal hinge, we determine the condition of the external one. To do this, just release the brake pedal, pick up speed, turn the wheels all the way to one side and use the brakes again. A large drive angle and brake force will create the necessary load, which will cause the external assembly to crunch if it is not working properly.

After checking on one side, we repeat similar work with the drive of the second wheel.

Domestic does not mean bad

It's no secret that today the most popular cars are the so-called consumer class. A fairly large segment of sales in this sector is occupied by the domestic auto industry. As a rule, a consumer who buys such a car is guided by the manufacturer’s affordable pricing policy while the quality has increased almost to world standards. And that’s why we see more and more brand new Ladas on our streets, in which we no longer even recognize features familiar from childhood.

The new Grands, Priors and Kalinas embody almost all modern innovations available for cars of such a modest class. However, are they reliable? The latest generation of VAZs, the famous “eights”, “nines” and “tens”, quite often lost even to old-style foreign cars in reliability and adaptability to our roads. They were still bought because of their modest price, but they were still viewed more as a temporary component of their life, hoping in the near future to switch to more comfortable and reliable cars of Western or Asian production.

As already noted, most often in modern road realities, a car breaks down. Is it reliable in modern VAZs? The answer is clear: yes. Engineers and designers have tried to make life easier for the modern driver.

Eats rubber from the inside on VAZ-2101-07 cars

On any car, the tread on those wheels that are driving wears out first, so on all rear-wheel drive VAZs, the tires on the rear axle are eaten up more intensively. The main reasons for the intensive wear of tires on the “Classic”:

the geometry of the body is broken (usually after a blow to the rear);
bent “stocking” (housing) of the rear axle;
jet rods are faulty (bent, bushings are broken);
crooked rims;
Wheel alignment is not adjusted.

Uneven wear of the tread of one of the tires on an axle can occur due to different pressures in the tires, for example, in one wheel there is 1.5 Atm, in the other - 2 Atm.

The cause of tire burn on the front axle of a VAZ is often faulty silent blocks; here the internal bushings can become dislodged or broken. Also, rubber often wears out due to an impact on the wheel (falling into a hole at speed), in which case the tire on the side of the axle where the damage occurred is “eaten” more intensely.

The same problems with tread wear are observed on Niva cars, since the suspension of this model is structurally almost the same as on the VAZ-Classic.

Repairs are expensive

However, using innovation and increasing reliability also has a downside. Modern mechanisms are much more difficult to repair (and we are talking not only about technology, but also about money). And although the repair of a “running” VAZ, of course, cannot be compared with the repair of a similar Western product, not a trace remains of its former cheapness.

Based on this sad fact, the financial risks of a modern driver who chooses a product from a domestic manufacturer or an imported car vary markedly. Consequently, the value of self-diagnosis of car faults has increased significantly, at least as common as a knock in the steering wheel when turning.

How to check the oil level in a cable transmission on a Liftback?

Dear. I had this problem. The 2nd gear crunched on the Grant Liftback. The car is out of warranty. Please advise what can be done?

Cable gearbox.

Another question - if you change the oil, is there a difference compared to the factory one?

Autoworld news:

Outlander has reached Russia

Official sales of Mitsubishi Outlander will begin on the Russian market at the end of May - beginning of June. The European debut of this newest SUV took place on March 4 at the 76th Geneva Motor Show. The prototype for it was the ASX “concept” and the serial Mitsubishi Airtrek, sold exclusively in the Land of the Rising Sun.

The Mitsubishi Outlander transmission provides permanent all-wheel drive to all wheels, and torque is distributed between the axles using a viscous coupling. The independent suspension of all wheels (McPherson type at the front, multi-link at the rear), despite the significant ground clearance, made it possible to achieve a truly car-like handling of the SUV and high stability in behavior on the road during high-speed driving.

In Russia, at first, only the model equipped with a 2-liter four-cylinder gasoline engine with an output of 136 hp/6000 rpm1, which is currently equipped with the Galant and Space Wagon, will be sold. This engine is mated to a five-speed manual gearbox. There are two versions of Outlander 2.0 to choose from. The price of the first, called Comfort, is $27,990. The second, richer version, called Sport, is priced at $29,790. The list of its equipment includes, among other things, climate control and side airbags. driver's seat with lumbar support. roof rails and 16-inch alloy wheels.

After some time, two more modifications of Outlander will appear in Europe, and then, perhaps, here too. The first, equipped with a 159-horsepower 2.4-liter M1VEC engine. has a top speed of 204 km/h. and acceleration to a standard hundred takes 9.9 seconds. The second modification, which will go on sale no earlier than a year, will also be capable of turning up the heat: it will be equipped with a 2-liter turbocharged engine. borrowed (albeit in a deformed form) from the “combat” Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VIII. This model will go into production this year.

Our recommendations:

www.trialli.ru/catalogue/podshipniki/roliki-grm/ to the TRIALLI company web portal. There are always premium auto parts here.

Knocking in the steering wheel - what to do?

Believe me, if you clearly determine what exactly is faulty in your car, you will spend much less money at the service station. The reason is simple: you won’t have to pay for what you don’t need (but what they may try to impose on you at the service station).

So, let's consider the situation. You went to the sea (to the mountains, outside the city - it doesn’t matter) and heard a knocking sound when turning the steering wheel (your Priora is relatively new!) Don’t rush to go straight to service. Try to figure out the problem yourself. The range of standard and non-standard situations for such breakdowns is quite limited.

Let's look at the main options. The most common critical situations are related to the steering mechanism. The first thing to determine is the nature of the knock. It comes in “plastic” and “metal”.

The power steering hums in the left and right positions

You need to know that when the wheels are turned all the way, the power steering pump operates with the greatest load. Therefore, extraneous sounds are created that do not indicate signs of any problems. Many car manufacturers inform you about this in their manuals.

In this case, it is important to distinguish sounds associated with system failures from other sounds.

If you are sure that the noise that has arisen is the cause of the malfunction, then you need to perform diagnostics. The main reasons that the hydraulic booster began to hum in the final positions are those that we discussed earlier. This means that you need to check the operation of the pump, the amount of fluid in the tank, the tension of the power steering belt, the transparency of the fluid and the presence of contaminants in it. Other situations are also possible.

It often happens that at the top of the gearbox there is a valve box that serves to control hydraulic flows. When the steering wheel is turned to its final position, the hydraulic flow is closed by a bypass valve, resulting in the fluid flowing in a small circle. In this case, the pump operates on its own, without cooling. This situation negatively affects him and leads to a serious problem. For example, scoring may occur on the pump gates or on the cylinder. In winter, when the liquid is thicker, this is more important. Therefore, you should not keep the wheels in the fully turned position for a long time.

The plastic protection is loose

If, when turning the steering wheel sharply, the knock sounds like plastic rubbing, almost 100% everything is fine with the car. As a rule, such sounds are produced by poorly fitted fender protection. When turning the front wheels, very often we touch and slightly deform the plastic locker. It is he who makes such unpleasant, but quite safe sounds.

However, you should not ignore this completely. The fact is that the plastic protection is attached directly to the “skirt” of the front bumper. And if it becomes completely deformed, it is possible that one fine day, when you make the next turn, you will simply tear it out (and in the process damage the bumper). Therefore, it is better not to hope for “maybe”, but to adjust the defense.

Subframe (atypical situations)

Sometimes atypical situations that are quite difficult to diagnose lead to knocking when turning. For example, there is a known case when, while the car was moving, a small stone hit the subframe and got stuck there. When you turn the steering wheel in one direction or the other, a natural displacement of the steering gear elements occurs, and they seem to run over this stone. When the elements were restored to their original position, they jumped off the stone, making a characteristic sound. The problem was solved by removing the stone.

When repairing suspension elements, for example, when replacing the front arm, the latter may touch the subframe when turning the wheel. Naturally, this is accompanied by a blow and a grinding sound. To get rid of it, it was enough to lift the subframe using a pry bar.

Another atypical situation of knocking in the suspension when turning is that the subframe bolt loosens, and the subframe itself can knock when driving, and even more so when turning. It can be eliminated by tightening the corresponding bolt.

When to replace parts

The situation is much more serious if the knocking sound when turning the steering wheel is more like a metallic crackling or grinding sound. This means that in the near future you will face significant financial expenses. And in order to reduce them, you need to understand the reasons yourself.

When a “gurgling” knock appears when turning the steering wheel, the simplest explanation for this is wear on the tie rod ends. A rather unpleasant phenomenon that requires attention. After all, if the wear process continues, the entire steering mechanism may fail, and as a result - expensive repairs, and maybe even an emergency on the road. The repair is not very expensive, although the tips are usually replaced in pairs - on both sides of the car. The main difficulty lies in subsequent work on wheel alignment.

Another fairly common problem, when a knock appears when turning the steering wheel (Kalina or Priora are susceptible to this “sore”), is associated with wear of the bearing of the upper support of the shock absorber strut. The disease is unpleasant, but quite easily eliminated. The bearing itself is not very expensive, and replacing it will not take much time.

Renault diesel engine problems

Four-cylinder DCi diesel engines with a volume of 1.5/1.9/2.2 liters, produced from 2001 to 2009, are not very reliable. The main problem with these power units is the knocking noise that occurs in the crank mechanism. These motors must not be overheated or overloaded; the engine oil must be changed promptly. The K9K 1.5 liter internal combustion engine is considered the weakest; it can turn the connecting rod bearings already at a mileage of 130-150 thousand km.

It should be noted that gasoline engines are much more reliable - the crank mechanism is problem-free, and the crankshaft fails on them only when starved of oil or when using low-quality engine oil.

From a broken spring to replacing shock absorbers

A rather unpleasant knocking sound when turning the steering wheel is produced by burst springs. The repair involves disassembling and, as a consequence, possible replacement of the same upper support bearing. It should be noted that in case of incorrect diagnosis or another reason why you cannot carry out this repair, the consequences for you will be very serious. A broken spring will not be able to take on that part of the load that it experiences when the car swings vertically. In this regard, there is an additional impact that can lead to its breakdown. But this is a full-fledged repair of the front chassis of your car. It is not difficult to calculate financial losses in this case. You will have to buy not only new springs, but also new shock absorbers, which in most cases are replaced in pairs.

If a knocking sound when turning the steering wheel to the right or left is also accompanied by a hum, this is a direct consequence of the failure of the front wheel hub bearing. Sadly. The difficulty of the repair lies in pressing the old bearing out of the hub (a very time-consuming and expensive operation). Such a breakdown can be “lethal” for all front- and all-wheel drive cars. In case of complete wear of the hub bearing, the front suspension may be destroyed and - God forbid, of course! - emergency situation on the road.

Shock absorber struts and/or support bearings

If the cause of the knocking lies in the shock absorbers or support bearings, then there will be knocking not only when turning the steering wheel to the right/left, but also when driving in a straight line. However, during sharp turns, especially at high speed, such a knock will be more pronounced, since additional loads will be applied to the shock absorbers and bearings.

In the latter case, the cause of the knock may be a broken shock absorber spring. This usually happens at its edges (top or bottom). Accordingly, when driving on uneven roads, as well as when the car rolls in turns, the driver may hear a metallic clanging sound. When turning left - right spring, when turning right - left spring.

You can check the shock absorbers and bearings by examining them for play. To do this, you need to dismantle the wheel and shake/twist the shock absorbers and bearings. In rare cases, the knocking noise may be caused by a loose fastening nut.

How to diagnose CV joint wear

Let's move on to the main and most serious noise that you can hear: a knocking sound when you turn the steering wheel (Kalina or Priora - it doesn’t matter) in one direction or another. A metallic crackle when the steering wheel is turned completely indicates a failure of the CV joint or, as it is popularly called, a “grenade”. When a cracking sound is heard from both the right and left, this means that both of your “grenades” need to be replaced. If, when turning the steering wheel to the left, a knock is heard from the same side, you know exactly which part is worn out more.

The situation with the failure of CV joints is usually associated with damage to the rubber boot, which protects the metal body of this mechanism. Even a small tear can lead to the replacement of one of the most expensive components in your car's chassis. Therefore, once a month it is better to check the anthers of both “grenades” for damage.

Wear of crosspieces of cardan joints of rack drive shaft

If you hear clicks when turning the steering wheel, which can also be felt on the steering wheel, you should check the condition of the steering drive elements. The wear of the crosspieces is detected by probing the universal joint when turning the steering wheel to the right and left at a small angle.

The bite is clearly felt by the hand and allows you to accurately identify the worn part. It is necessary to take into account that there are several such parts and some may be located in hard-to-reach places. In some cases, it may be necessary to dismantle components to disassemble and inspect components, followed by replacement of the faulty part.

A foreign brand does not guarantee the absence of breakdowns

The situations described above are typical not only for Russian cars. In principle, an expensive foreign car is not immune from this. The whole question is how often this will happen.

As already noted, the quality of cars produced in Russia has improved significantly. This applies to both truly Russian VAZs and cars produced here under license. The percentage of factory defects has been significantly reduced: a knock when turning the steering wheel (Logan, for example, is assembled in Russia) will not appear immediately. And it is quite possible to avoid such situations. Experts advise undergoing the necessary diagnostics at specialized service stations every six months, without leading to the notorious “knocks and crackles” in the chassis.

In addition, given that the road surface is not always of high quality, it is necessary to observe the speed limit and take safety measures when crossing difficult or simply bad areas. If these simple recommendations are followed, your car will serve you for many years without any breakdowns, and the money not spent on vehicle repairs can be used for something else.

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Clicking noises when turning the steering wheel

Post by seryoga88 » 04 Mar 2015, 14:11

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Why does it eat the tire from the outside front or rear?

More often the cause of such a defect is a broken camber. If its angle is too positive, excessive abrasion of the outer shoulders of the rubber is observed. The final conclusion is made only after examining the suspension parts, the essence of which we outlined in the previous section.

If the wheel alignment is set, the suspension is “normal”, but the rubber is still eating from the outer edge, then the problem is with the tires. There are plenty of examples of when it is enough to replace a set of tires with a new one, and problems with tread development at the rear and front immediately disappear.

For example, the Kama Euro 129 is distinguished by its fat on the outside: after 1,000-2,000 km, uneven tire geometry is observed. And this is another nail in the list of their shortcomings, although they are already not the most wear-resistant summer tires with a strong sidewall among the participants in the fresh test.