Owners of a VAZ 2110 very often encounter a problem - the starter spins, but the car does not start. In today’s article I would like to tell you about all the reasons for this malfunction, what to pay attention to first and how to fix this breakdown yourself.
In general, there are many reasons why the engine may not start and it is impossible to consider them all in one article. However, there are “basic” conditions that are necessary for a successful launch. We will discuss them now.
Why does the starter spin but the car won't start?
For a successful start, a fuel supply with operating pressure, air and a timely spark are required. It is also extremely important to prepare the correct fuel-air mixture. These conditions need to be checked first when the engine refuses to start.
Burnt contact of the starter solenoid relay VAZ 2110
Difficulties with starting or its impossibility can arise for a variety of reasons. The culprits should be looked for in the following devices:
- Fuel system malfunctions for all types of engines;
- Problems in the electrical equipment of the machine.
It should also be taken into account that starting the engine in cold weather is significantly different from carrying out this operation at above-zero temperatures. We will not touch upon problems with the battery and starter; we will assume that everything is in order with them, so we will focus only on the problems of the power unit.
Why the VAZ 2110 won’t start - 3 main reasons
Checking the starter
The starters installed on the VAZ 2112 are relatively reliable. But if, after all the checks carried out above, it was not possible to identify the reason for the inability to start, then you should remove it for diagnostics.
It will be extremely difficult to disassemble and check all its components on your own. First of all, you need to check: is voltage coming to the starter power contacts? Often it is a cable break, a crease, or contact oxidation that leads to the impossibility of starting the motor.
Since there is no voltage on the starter winding. The vehicle diagnostic process can take a long time. Therefore, you should start with the obvious and most common faults.
It should be noted that if there are problems with starting, it is difficult to determine a hot fault. If you cannot cope with the repair yourself, then you should contact a qualified service center.
Battery problems
First of all, if the VAZ 2110 does not start, but the starter turns, you should check the operation of the battery. The voltage at the terminals of a fully charged battery will correspond to a value of 12.6 V. When completely discharged, it drops to a level of 10.5 V. But even a high value of battery voltage at idle does not guarantee its stable operation, which will be discussed in more detail shortly below.
Good battery
It is worth understanding that lead batteries cannot be completely discharged. In addition, their capacity may decrease significantly depending on the number of operating cycles and the total service life. Thus, a battery with a high no-load voltage level, with electrical receivers disconnected, may be unable to produce the necessary power for the starter to operate. How can I check this?
You can determine the fact that the battery does not have the required capacity (Ampere hours) left using the same multimeter, which reads the voltage level at the battery terminals at the moment the engine starts. If the voltage drops below 10.5 V, it means the battery is completely discharged or has failed and is unable to start the VAZ-2110 starter.
Checking battery density replacement
Among the main reasons for battery self-discharge are the following:
- the generator has failed or the voltage regulator is not working;
- the ignition key is left on for a long time;
- improper operation of the battery, failure due to physical wear and exhaustion of its working life;
- electrical wiring faults.
In order to prevent problems with the battery and generator operation, there is a special indication on the VAZ dashboard. It reports possible problems with the generator, a broken belt drive from the drive shaft to the generator, or a faulty battery. If you don’t want to buy a new battery prematurely, problems with the generator should be resolved in the next 50-100 km. mileage after the corresponding indication appears on the dashboard.
Possible starter malfunctions: causes and symptoms
So, first, let's look at the faults that cause the starter to not turn on a VAZ 2112.
If the engine does not start, it does not mean that the problem lies in this particular device, so first you need to make sure that the problem does not lie in a discharged battery:
- If, when trying to start the VAZ 2111 starter with the key, the crankshaft turns once or frequent clicks of the device are heard, this is indicative of a low battery. Also, the reason may be poor contact of the terminals with the battery or disconnection or poor contact of the mechanism ground.
- If, when starting the engine with the key, you heard only one click, but the starter does not turn, and therefore the engine does not start, most likely the problem lies in burnt power contacts. In particular, we are talking about the retractor relay mechanism. Due to burning, these contacts will not be able to conduct voltage through them. It also happens that when starting the engine with the key on a VAZ 2112, the starter does not turn, but the contacts are intact; if this is the case, then the reason should be sought in the non-working electric motor of the mechanism or its drive.
- The appearance of uncharacteristic noise during operation of the device may be due to wear of the bushings of the bearing devices. In addition, the reason may lie in the wear of the journals on the armature shaft.
- It is necessary to check the quality of fastening of the device. It is quite possible that problems in its performance are due to loosening of the screws. It must be taken into account that vibrations can negatively affect the functionality of the mechanism.
- The reason may also be damage to the drive teeth (the author of the video is the Lexin channel).
Checking spark plugs and sparks
If the engine does not start within five seconds, there is no use turning the starter. You can try to start it again, but it’s unlikely to help. Moreover, operating the starter for too long can lead to overheating and even fire.
If you try to start a carburetor engine for a long time, gasoline will flood the spark plugs and make further starting attempts impossible in principle. The injectors have a purge mode, so the spark plugs can be dried without removing them from the car - you just need to press the gas pedal to the floor and turn the starter.
Clean working spark plugs VAZ 2110
But these are half measures. First of all, you should unscrew at least one spark plug, put the wire back on it and position the spark plug on the engine so that there is a distance of about three millimeters between the metal part of the spark plug and the metal of the engine. Turn on the starter and make sure that there is a uniform spark between the spark plug contacts.
Checking the spark in the spark plugs of the VAZ 2110
Do this check for each candle. If there is no spark on any spark plug, then there are global problems in the ignition system.
VAZ 2112 16 valves no spark reason
The engine stalled while driving, 21124, 16 cl. There is no spark in any cylinder.
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Only if the DPKV is faulty, the engine will not work. If any other sensor malfunctions, the engine somehow works in order to get home or to a service station.
And another reason when the engine stalls while driving is a broken timing belt.
You can also think about a faulty ignition module, but they mostly fail partially, that is, some cylinders will not get a spark, but others will; although, as an option, maybe he “quacked” the whole team. But if you have individual ignition coils, then this option is eliminated; all 4 pieces will not burn out at the same time.
If the engine does not start, but you can hear the fuel pump in the tank turning on and running, you need to check the operation of the ignition system. To do this, you need to check for the presence of a spark discharge on high-voltage wires. In this case, be sure to use a spark gap.
If you check for a break in the presence of a spark by placing the wire at a certain distance from the ground of the car, the ignition module or controller may fail due to the appearance of a large self-induction current with a large spark gap.
In addition, you can get quite noticeable and unpleasant sensations when receiving an electric shock when the insulation breaks down.
In the case when you check the spark discharge by placing a spark plug with a non-high-voltage wire on the engine body, also due to poor contact of the spark plug body with ground, a large self-induction current can form, which will lead to damage to the controller or ignition module.
The use of a spark gap is also more convenient, since most injection engines use static ignition distribution with the simultaneous supply of high voltage to two spark plugs. It is not difficult to make a spark gap yourself; here you can find several examples.
A drawing of a spark gap for simultaneously checking a spark on four high-voltage wires and a photo for checking a spark on two high-voltage wires. PAfter connecting the spark gap, crank the engine with the starter and observe the presence of a spark discharge.
The absence of a spark on one wire, when high voltage is distributed simultaneously to two spark plugs, indicates a breakdown to ground of the wire or the output of the ignition coil (ignition module).
A break in the wire or winding of the ignition coil (module) is also possible. If there is no spark at the same time on a pair of wires 1-4 or 2-3, then the ignition coil, ignition module or controller is faulty. Breakage of high-voltage wires also cannot be ruled out.
To check the integrity of high-voltage wires, it is necessary to check their resistance; it should not exceed 200 kOhm, and there should not be a large difference in resistance in a set of identical wires.
Checking the fuel pump and fuel supply
The principles of fuel supply in carburetor and injection engine models are different, but periodically occurring malfunctions are largely similar. Fuel supply in both systems is carried out by a fuel pump. In the carburetor model it has a mechanical drive; in injection models it is an electric pump that creates high pressure in the fuel rail. Both types of pumps have built-in fuel filters, the clogging of which leads to failures when trying to start the engine.
You can indirectly determine the supply of gasoline to the cylinders by the appearance of the spark plug. If the spark plug removed from the cylinder is wet and smells of gasoline, then everything is fine with the fuel supply. However, it is better to make sure of this more reliably.
An electrically driven fuel pump may not work due to the lack of supply voltage at its terminals. The culprit for this situation may be a blown fuse or broken wires. Problems may arise due to the fault of the carburetor; clogged jets will prevent the engine from starting. But most of the problems in the fuel system are inherent in the injectors. In such systems there are several sensors that monitor and regulate the operation of the power unit. Failure of the DPKV will make starting the engine impossible. Such problems can occur due to the fault of the pressure regulator in the fuel system. Poor starting of the engine injectors cannot be excluded from the organizers.
Fuel pump VAZ 2110
On injection engines, this requires relieving pressure in the fuel system using a special valve at the end of the fuel rail. Unscrew the cap and press the valve with a screwdriver. Gasoline should squirt out from under the valve. After this, release the valve and turn on the ignition. At this time, the fuel pump must start, restoring the released pressure in the system. If the pump is silent, turn on the starter. When the pump does not operate even when the starter is turned on, there is most likely a malfunction in its power supply system.
If the pump starts working, then we check the pressure in the fuel system again, releasing it through the same valve in the ramp. Splashing gasoline again indicates that everything is in order with the fuel supply system. When gasoline does not splash and does not appear from under the valve at all, we can talk about a faulty fuel pressure regulator in the rail (constantly bleeds gasoline through the return line into the tank) or some kind of plug in the main fuel line (for example, due to freezing of water in low-quality fuel ).
Fuel pump VAZ 2110 disassembled
On carburetor engines, checking the fuel supply is much easier. It is enough to remove the air filter cover, move the throttle lever of the first chamber of the carburetor, simulating pressing the gas pedal, and see if gasoline sprays from the spray nozzle. You can pump gasoline into the carburetor using the manual pumping lever, which is found on all mechanical gasoline pumps.
Failure of spark plugs
The first thing you should think about after checking the presence of power and the ignition switch is the integrity of the spark plugs. Because even if there is a spark, they may not work correctly. Checking them is quite simple:
- the spark plug is unscrewed from its socket using a special key;
- one of the candlesticks is put on it;
- Next you need to “turn” the starter.
The spark between the central and side electrodes must be blue. If it is red or completely absent, the spark plug must be replaced. This part is a consumable item. According to the regulations, regardless of the recommendations of the manufacturer of the spark plugs themselves, they must be replaced every 10 thousand km.
Timing belt broke
VAZ 2110 does not start, the starter turns - perhaps the reason lies in a broken timing belt?
The engine gas distribution mechanism is driven by the crankshaft gear. Initially, chains were used for this purpose, and timing belts, which began to be widely used about twenty years ago, aroused mistrust among car owners.
The undoubted advantages of a belt drive over a chain drive are its simple design, low weight and low noise. However, it is not without its drawbacks, the main one of which is the relatively short resource of the timing belt.
Of course, a faulty, torn or misaligned timing belt also causes the VAZ 2110 to fail to start. By the way, on stock, non-deformed models of the 21120 engine, a torn timing belt also causes valve deformation and requires additional repairs. In this case, driving even after replacing the belt without restoring the valves is impossible.
New timing belt VAZ 2110
Check for the presence of a spark in the spark plugs visually by turning on the ignition and pressing the outer metal part of the spark plug against the unpainted metal body of the car or against structural elements. Do not forget that all electrical parts of the product are under high voltage, so it is better to carry out work with insulating gloves. If there is no spark on only one spark plug, be sure to check the others and draw the appropriate conclusions.
The consequences of a broken timing belt depend entirely on the design of the power unit. To imagine what will happen at this moment, you need to turn to the mechanics of the internal combustion engine.
In a running engine, the pistons continuously move from one dead center to another. During the intake stroke, the piston moves down and the intake valve opens; during the exhaust stroke, the exhaust valve opens and the piston moves up. At the moment when the piston is at top dead center, all valves must be closed. If the timing belt breaks, the camshaft stops rotating and the valves stop in one position. At the same time, the crankshaft continues to rotate by inertia, and the pistons rush towards the open valves.
Timing belt VAZ 2110 OPEN
In some engines, for example, the 8-valve VAZ-2111, the pistons have special recesses to avoid contact with the valves in the event of a break. In this case, there will be no consequences, except that the car will not be able to get to the garage or workshop under its own power.
Cooling system
The engine cooling system is liquid, closed type with forced circulation of coolant and an expansion tank.
The engine cooling system uses special fluids based on a mixture of water and ethylene glycol. They have a low freezing point and a high boiling point. In addition, thanks to a complex of added additives, the coolant prevents corrosion of the channel walls, does not foam, and extends the service life of the coolant pump seal.
The volume of liquid in the engine cooling system is 7.8 liters.
Fluid circulation in the system is ensured by a centrifugal pump installed in the cylinder block. The pump is driven by a timing belt.
The liquid in the cooling system, depending on the engine temperature, can circulate in both a small and large circle. The thermostat controls the direction of fluid flow in the engine cooling system. It contains two valves - the main and additional (bypass). The main valve controls the circulation of liquid in a large circle, and the bypass valve controls the circulation in a small circle. The valves are interconnected - when one opens, the second closes and vice versa.
When the engine is cold, the thermostat bypass valve is open and fluid circulates in a small circle through the cylinder block, cylinder head, bypass valve and coolant pump, as well as through the throttle body and heater core. The heater radiator is built into the engine cooling system and is designed to heat the passenger compartment by circulating hot coolant through it.
Cooling system: 1 — heater radiator; 2 — coolant drain hose from the heater radiator; 3 — coolant supply hose to the heater radiator; 4 — coolant pump supply pipe hose; 5 — expansion tank hose; 6 — steam removal hose of the heater radiator; 7 - expansion tank; 8 — liquid level sensor in the expansion tank; 9 — thermostat; 10 — hose for draining fluid from the engine radiator; 11 — hose for supplying fluid to the throttle assembly; 12 — steam exhaust hose of the engine radiator; 13 — hose for supplying fluid to the engine radiator; 14 — engine radiator; 15 — radiator drain plug; 16 — electric engine radiator fan; 17 — coolant pump; 18 — supply pipe of the coolant pump; 19 — coolant drain hose from the throttle body
At a temperature of 85+2 °C, the main thermostat valve begins to open, and the bypass valve begins to close, and for some time the liquid circulates in a small and large circle at the same time. At a temperature of 102 °C, the main thermostat valve is fully open, the bypass valve is closed, and the main flow of liquid passes through the engine radiator, where it is cooled by the oncoming air flow. At the same time, the liquid continues to circulate through the throttle assembly and the heater radiator. When the air flow intensity is insufficient, an electric fan is turned on to cool the radiator. It is installed behind the engine radiator and turns on automatically based on a signal from the electronic engine control unit.
To compensate for the thermal expansion of the liquid, an expansion tank is installed in the cooling system. The tank plug contains inlet and outlet valves, which allows you to maintain optimal pressure in the system when the liquid is heated, and also compensate for the vacuum when it cools.
How to check the fuel - air system of a VAZ 2110
Another reason why the VAZ 2110 will not start may be a faulty supply of the fuel-air mixture to the car’s engine. In the air supply system, malfunctions occur extremely rarely and boil down to either a tightly clogged air filter or a blockage of the air channel by a foreign object. Such malfunctions are unlikely to occur on a well-maintained personal vehicle. But if the car is, for example, a service car or recently purchased, it would be a good idea to make sure that the filter is intact and that there is no rag stuck in the channel after a recent repair.
The engine fuel supply system is controlled by an electronic control unit, which, in turn, regulates the fuel-to-air ratio based on readings from the mass air flow sensor (MAF) and the throttle position sensor. If both of them are faulty, it is not surprising that the VAZ 2110 does not start.
Diagram of the fuel air system of the VAZ 2110
Next, it’s worth checking the condition of the air filter, since this is the easiest thing to do. And, if none of the above steps help, you need to check the pressure in the system created when the fuel pump operates. Connect a pressure gauge to the diagnostic fitting of the fuel rail and measure the pressure. Its low level indicates a clogged pump filter, and its high level indicates a gearbox malfunction.
The normal pressure level directly depends on the type of engine installed in the VAZ 2110 car:
- the limit from 284 to 325 kPa is normal for engines of type 2111, 2112;
- the limit from 364 to 400 kPa is normal for engines type 21114, 21124.
By the way, the serviceability of the fuel pump can also be determined by disconnecting the main gas supply hose to the ramp and pumping gasoline through it into a clean container. A working pump will pump at least 1.5 liters in a minute. fuel.
Also listen to the starter. Does the main electromagnetic relay turn on with a characteristic click and does the electromechanical drive of the unit work at all? Despite the fact that the design of the starter is extremely simple, the electrical contact on it can easily be lost or the gearbox can fail. In the latter case, a characteristic creaking or whistling sound will be heard.
If the starter does not rotate, you should remove it from under the hood of the car. This process will not take much time, just like disassembling the block itself. It is worth checking the serviceability of the electrical part using a multimeter, “ringing” the windings, and disassembling the gearbox. A large amount of lubricant in it in the cold season does not allow the starter to rotate.
If wet
If wet candles are found, they must be removed and dried.
Next, they should be installed in their place. If after such work the car still does not start, and the spark plugs are filled with gasoline, the next step is to check the timing marks. To do this, remove the plastic casing and check the marks on the camshaft and its gear; Don’t forget about the mark on the crankshaft gear. If they are in the wrong position, there is a violation of the gas distribution. It is also worth checking the key, in close combination with which the DPKV works. The second reason why spark plugs may flood is clogged nozzles. In this case, they need to be cleaned.
Checking the electrical equipment of the VAZ 2110
If there is something to burn in the working cylinders, then you need to look for what will make the mixture burn. This means that you need to pay attention to the car's ignition system. This could be an ignition distributor, a high-voltage coil and wires, spark plugs.
It doesn’t happen that all devices fail at the same time, so we should talk about them separately. We will assume that the distributor is installed correctly; in this case, a failure may occur through a breakdown of the cover or slider, or a failure of the Hall sensor.
However, most often the cause is poor contact in the power connector of the ignition distributor. An ignition module or coils that do not produce high voltage to produce a spark at the spark plugs can create problems. Injectors work in conjunction with ignition modules, of which there are usually two per engine. One ensures the operation of cylinders 1 and 4, and the second - cylinders 2 and 3.
In these systems, the electronic control unit, which generates control pulses for all systems, including the ignition, may be problematic. This block can only be checked by replacing it. The same can be done with ignition modules.
Electrical diagram of VAZ 2110
Sometimes the malfunction may come from the high-voltage coil; it does not produce voltage that can form a spark to ignite the air-fuel mixture. You can check its operation if you unscrew the spark plug from the cylinder and, together with the high-voltage wire, ensure its contact with the engine ground. At this time, you need to crank the starter and watch the spark plug. The absence of a spark confirms that the ignition coil is faulty. It is impossible not to dwell on such elements of ignition systems as spark plugs.
They are the ones who ignite the combustible mixture in the working cylinders of the engine. During their operation, the metal parts of their electrodes burn out, after which the gap increases, starting the motor becomes more difficult, or even becomes impossible. Check the condition of the spark plugs regularly, especially their gap, then problems can be avoided. You can continue to review situations when the starter turns, but the VAZ 2110, 2112, 2114 does not start.
It is simply impossible to take into account absolutely all cases, but to avoid such situations, carry out routine maintenance of the machine in a timely manner, use only high-quality operating fluids.
Problems with the fuel pump
Unlike other models produced by VAZ plants earlier, the fuel pump in model 2112 is located directly in the cabin behind the rear seat. First of all, you need to check whether power is supplied to the pump. This is very easy to do - just use a multimeter:
- set the device switch to the constant voltage test mode, up to 20 V;
- remove the special terminal from the pump;
- Using probes, we check the power supply with the ignition on.
If there is power, but gasoline still does not flow, then you just need to replace the part with a new one. The renovation does not make any economic sense.
The cost of a pump for a VAZ 2112 usually does not exceed 1.5 thousand rubles. If there is a spark, but the engine stalls while driving (including at idle), the problem may lie in low pressure.
Battery
The first thing you should look at is the battery. And it doesn’t matter whether we are talking about a hot injection engine or a cold one. It also doesn't matter at all how many valves it has. The batteries of all modifications of the VAZ model under consideration are of the same type.
To find out why the Lada does not want to start, open its hood and look at the battery indicator. If the latter is missing, measure the voltage with a tester - 11.5 volts will be normal. Lower readings indicate the need to charge. When this is not the reason, then look further. Be sure to check if the battery terminals are oxidized. If so, clean them with fine sandpaper.
Starting principle
In order to know why the engine does not start, you need to know exactly how it works. The basis for starting the engine is a spark, which depends on the ignition system and the fuel-air mixture, which is supplied in certain proportions. Therefore, if any of these components does not work as it should, startup becomes difficult or simply impossible.
Main reasons
Among all the reasons why starting an engine can be difficult, we can highlight the main ones that stand out for poor starting of a cold engine:
Low battery charge level - this reason most often occurs in the cold season, when the ambient temperature is significantly below 0 degrees Celsius. Because in such conditions, a dead car battery can lose its charge very quickly. This problem can be solved by simply replacing the battery with a new one, or periodically servicing the old one to recharge it.
The battery on the editorial car was running low. True, it was an 8-valve VAZ-2112
But the meaning is the same.
When further inspecting the ignition system, pay attention to the condition of the individual coils and spark plugs. Check them for cracks and visible signs of wear.
Also pay special attention to the condition of the working surface of the candles, as their condition can tell a lot.
The order of dismantling does not matter.
Check the pressure in the fuel rail; how to do this correctly is written in great detail here.
Actually, the ramp is under pressure
A clogged throttle valve, although not the main one, can also be the cause of difficult engine starting. It needs to be cleaned.
Throttle valve before and after cleaning
Air filter and mass air flow sensor - the air filter must be clean so that all the necessary air mass passes into the cylinders and mixes with the required amount of fuel. What to do if traces of oil are found on the filter? The answer is here.
We connect the probes of the measuring device: red to yellow, and black to green (to sensor ground).
Insufficient engine oil pressure
This reason typically appears on a cold engine, since it is much more difficult for thickened oil with insufficient pressure to reach the main components and assemblies of the engine. In this case, you may notice a low oil pressure warning light. However, as follows from practice, such problems do not occur often.
As you can see, problems with starting the engine when cold are not uncommon and there can be various reasons for this. They should be solved from least difficult to most difficult. Since even a minor problem in a small unit can prevent the entire engine from starting.
VAZ fuel pump
Once you are convinced that, despite the serviceability of the battery, it still does not want to, find out how the fuel pump works. Its failure leads to the fact that fuel does not enter the VAZ-2110 injector, therefore, the engine cannot be started. This problem often occurs when the engine is still hot.
Try starting it and listen. If the pump motor is humming, then the problem is not there. On a noisy street they use a different method. Make sure the spark plugs produce a spark. Do this: unscrew one and attach it to the power plant housing, and then activate the ignition.
Checking the operation of the fuel pump
When turning the key in the ignition mechanism, a distinct sound should be heard in the rear seat area. This hum is created by a running pump that pumps fuel. When there is no sound, you need to check the relay that controls the fuel pump and the corresponding fuses. If the problem is not with them and they work flawlessly, you should measure the voltage that passes through the pump terminals.
If there is no voltage, look for the problem in the related wiring.
Candles
If the car does not start, and the steps described above did not help, then pay attention to the spark plugs. They become dirty on a 2110 injection engine in the same way as on a carburetor engine.
The resulting carbon deposits interfere with normal spark formation. In addition, vibration sometimes causes these elements to move away. If there are new spark plugs, then simply install them to replace the old ones. When after this the engine with 8 or 16 valves starts, everything is in order. If there are no new spark plugs, clean the old ones and tighten them - this often helps.
What you need to know about diagnostics
Simple advice: you don’t need to take your car to be scanned. Due to the fact that laptops are now in almost every home, there are a lot of unscrupulous establishments where you can undergo such a check. When the program does not notice any errors, they tell you that there is nothing wrong with your car. By and large, this diagnosis can be called a simple pumping of money.
A good diagnosis should proceed as follows:
• Errors are read first.
• The signals coming from the sensors on the injector are checked.
• The pressure created by the fuel is measured.
At the very end, you should receive the correct answer about what happened and what you have to do with the car in the future.
If a car enthusiast has an engineering streak, he can try to find the reason why the VAZ-2112 does not start. In this case, you can fix the problem yourself, saving on service costs.
Checking the devices
When it was noticed that the VAZ-2112 does not start, you need to turn on the ignition and carefully look at the dashboard. It should display an alarm in the form of switched on lights:
• Signal for normal battery charging.
If the instrument panel does not react at all and does not light up when turned on, you should look for reasons why there is no power. To do this, you need to check the fastening of the terminals on the battery. Also pay attention to the fuses. When the dashboard is working, the repair of the VAZ-2112 should continue as follows. Turn your attention to the Check Engine lamp.
If you have run out of repair ideas, try connecting a working ECU and checking it that way. This will determine whether it is a problem or not. If the Check Engine warning light still does not work, the ECU is most likely faulty. Without it, you won't be able to start the car. Speaking about the price of the ECU, it is worth noting that this is not a cheap thing. It costs about 100 dollars. Some spare parts for the VAZ-2112 are quite expensive. The control unit is one of them. Compared to the fact that the price for the VAZ-2112 car itself is from 150 thousand rubles, hardly anyone will buy a spare unit.
Why doesn't the engine start yet?
Another common cause is a clogged fuel filter. This usually happens due to the use of fuel that is not of very high quality. However, most often the owners themselves are to blame for this, as they do not consider it necessary to regularly replace them.
It will be useful: Do-it-yourself replacement of the Chevrolet Niva thermostat: diagram, video
Poor throughput of this element provokes a decrease in pressure, which, in turn, prevents fuel from being properly sprayed through the injectors. A characteristic symptom of such a breakdown is the “sneezing” of the power plant.
In addition to the fuel filter, experts also advise changing the air filter.
Why is Datsun On Do better?
Good night all. I’ve been reading the forum for about three years now, but somehow I never bothered to register. By the way, thanks to everyone, I found really useful advice a couple of times. Trouble has come - now I’ve registered =(
So to the description of the problem. I have a ten, 8th grade 2003. I arrived today and parked the car for about an hour to wipe off the dust in the interior. Wipe. Start - but it won’t start. The engine is turning. I started researching the problem. Alarm system, immobilizer (activated) - they seem to work as usual. The fuel pump - I hear it pumping, and there is definitely power to it, since after searching for the previous problem, the LED remained soldered into its circuit. He burns. I checked - the spark plug sparks when I turn the starter. There seems to be pressure in the fuel rail (unscrew the cap, press on the nipple - a stream flows), which means the fuel pump should be working. I unscrewed the spark plugs - they were dry and did not smell of gasoline. It turns out that it is not served? What could it be? Are there any sensors there? Or maybe some kind of contact or fuse? The worst thing I suspect is an alarm system or an immobilizer.
In general - good help. Maybe someone can tell me something. Thank you.
Thanks everyone for the advice. Clarifications: There is a spark - I removed the cap from the spark plug, turned the starter and watched as a spark breaks through to the head of the engine. Ignition switch - I don’t know how to check this, but I think if the engine turns over, then the lock is working =) My belt broke like that, so I know what the symptoms are. Replaced 15,000 thousand ago. I think the belt should be fine. Markers if they are lost. Can you tell me how to check this? I unscrewed the spark plugs and they were dry. If you press the gas and turn the ignition, as far as I know, this is the mode for purging (drying) the spark plugs. I tried it. There is pressure in the fuel rail.
And the injectors are squealing.
How can I check this? I thought about this yesterday, but I don’t know how to look at it.
Those. It turns out that in the evening after work you will need to check the following things: - whether the marks on the belt match (how to check?) - whether the injectors are peeing (how to check?) - climb in the console, move the relays, you should probably also look at the fuses
What else should I check? Yes, here’s another question: at what stage are the immobilizer and alarm systems included in the circuit? Well, I mean, could it be any of them?
Here's something I picked up from the murzilka, I'll check it: - The control impulse from the crankshaft position sensor arrives at the wrong time due to delamination of the crankshaft damper (the gear has moved relative to the pulley)
Replace the damper (you can install a cast iron pulley) - The engine control unit, its circuits or the crankshaft position sensor (less often, the coolant temperature sensor) is faulty
Check whether 12 V voltage is supplied to the control unit, the crankshaft position sensor circuit, that the sensor itself is not damaged and the gap between it and the crankshaft damper ring gear (1±0.2 mm). Sensor resistance is 500–700 Ohms. If there is a break in the coolant temperature sensor or its circuit, the cooling system fan runs continuously
Replace faulty unit, sensors, wires -
The idle speed controller or its electrical circuit is faulty
When starting the engine, lightly press the gas pedal, slightly opening the throttle. If the engine starts but stalls when the pedal is released, the regulator is faulty
Replace the faulty regulator - The injection system fuse or fusible link has blown
Check the fuse link - a piece of black wire, the non-switchable power fuse and the main relay fuse
Check the circuits and instruments of the injection system, eliminate the cause of the burnout, replace the fuse - The injectors or their circuits are faulty
Check the injector windings and their circuits with an ohmmeter (no open or short circuit). The control unit is diagnosed at a service station
Replace the faulty control unit, injectors, ensure contact in the electrical circuits - The fuel pump does not create the required pressure in the system
Check the fuel pump outlet pressure (at least 3.5 bar (3.5 kg/cm2), make sure the fuel inlet strainer is clean
Clean the fuel inlet mesh. Fuel pump that does not provide the required pressure in the system - replace -
Possible malfunctions in the timing belt
- the timing belt slips through the pulley teeth by 1-2 positions. Because of this, the position of the valve timing changes and the engine may not start at all.
- Slipping of the camshaft pulley or damage to the shaft.
- Malfunction or incorrect operation of the crankshaft position sensor.
In a situation where it is not possible, from a technical point of view, to identify a malfunction using general diagnostics, it is necessary to carry out general computer diagnostics of the engine with connection to the ECU
If you find an error, please select a piece of text and press Ctrl+Enter.
Source
Occurrence of a problem
Engine problems in the VAZ-2110 arise for various reasons. The result of a malfunction of one of the nodes associated with the engine will be unstable operation of the entire node
Not everyone can independently identify the reason why the car stalled, so it’s worth paying attention to some little things. One of the main problems with cars with high mileage is contamination of the system with fuel combustion products, so a simple lack of cleaning can eventually cause the engine to stall
If the pipes are clogged, fuel enters the combustion chamber in small quantities; it is not enough for normal engine operation. The solution to this problem is simple - check all the fuel channels, clean them, replace the fuel nozzles. For carburetor types of VAZ, this will not only solve the problem, but also improve engine performance.
The second reason why the engine may stall is low-quality gasoline. An incorrectly selected brand of gasoline can have a very detrimental effect on many vehicle systems, including the engine. You need to replace the fuel, this will help solve the problem.
These solutions to the problem are simple and require minimal skill and expense from the driver.
DIY mechanism repair and replacement
If the power unit does not start, it is necessary to repair the VAZ starter.
This procedure looks like this:
First of all, you should disconnect the battery, and then disconnect the wires connected to the traction relay. Using a 13mm wrench, you will need to unscrew the nut that secures the positive contact of the cable connected from the battery to the starter assembly. The wire itself can then be dismantled. Next, you will need to unscrew the nuts that secure the mechanism to the clutch housing. To unscrew the nuts, you will need a 15mm wrench. After completing these steps, the starter assembly can be removed. If you plan to replace it with a new one, then the replacement can be done at this stage. When replacing, you need to take into account the location of the wires connected to the starter; under no circumstances should they be mixed up. Therefore, before disconnecting the wires, it is advisable to mark them. If you do not want to change the mechanism, but plan to repair it, then you can start disassembling it. For disassembly, you will need a 10mm wrench; you can use it to unscrew the nut located on the relay and remove the wire connected to the starter. The relay screws that secure it to the starter assembly must be unscrewed using a size 8 wrench. Having done this, you can dismantle the relay. After removing the relay, you can see the gasket, which is located between the front cover of the mechanism and the relay itself
It should also be removed for disassembly, but when dismantling it is worth paying attention to its condition. If you see that the sealing element is worn out and its quality is quite low, then it is better to replace this component. When the seal is dismantled, it will be necessary to remove the spring, as well as the anchor. The next step is to remove the parking stud nuts. After completing these steps, you can dismantle the mechanism from the studs with the anchor itself
After this, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the internal parts and components of the device. For proper repairs, you should diagnose the contacts, and also completely disassemble the brush assembly and check its condition. In general, the mechanism repair procedure is quite complicated, so not every car enthusiast chooses this method - sometimes it is easier to simply replace the unit with a new one. In particular, this will be necessary if the repair process did not produce any results.
