No charging on Gazelle Business - typical faults

Gazelle generator circuit

The generator on Gazelle cars is a synchronous three-phase electric machine, in the excitation windings of which electric current is generated. The rotor (armature) rotates in the housing and is located inside a constant magnetic field, which is created by the stator (winding). Electricity is generated here as follows:

• when the engine starts, the movement is transmitted from the crankshaft through the drive belt to the generator set pulley;
• the rotor begins to rotate together with the pulley, a magnetic field arises between the stator and armature windings;
• due to electromagnetic induction, EMF is generated, alternating current appears;
• a diode bridge, consisting of diodes of different polarities, rectifies the electric current, making it constant;
• then the current from the rotor commutator is transferred to the brushes and supplied to the relay regulator;
• The regulator limits the voltage, ensuring safe operation of consumers.

The Gazelle generator circuit is very simple; the assembly consists of the following parts:

• case, it is made of two halves - aluminum front and back covers;
• fixed winding - stator;
• rotating shaft - rotor (armature);
• pulley and impeller;
• diode (rectifier) ​​bridge;
• two bearings on which the armature rotates;
• brush assembly;
• relay regulator (voltage regulator).

How long should a gazelle be charged? Auto Bryansk

Constant undercharging of the battery or its absolute discharge at the most inopportune moment is a headache for many car owners. One source of these problems may be the generator. But how to check it? Perhaps it's not his fault at all? Let's figure out together how much the generator must produce for the normal functioning of all car systems and maintaining the battery in a charged state.

How to check the operation of the generator

The battery in a car is an important element of the system, which is responsible for providing the car’s on-board network with electricity. The generator is used to charge the battery while it is active. Unstable operation of a device generating electricity causes a voltage drop in the network and failure to restore the capacity of the power source.

Normal generator performance means timely and complete replenishment of the battery charge level, which decreases under load. Checking the battery charge level from the generator is simple and can be done by the car owner himself.

Diagnostics of an automotive energy-generating device includes a visual inspection of the unit, its elements and related parts, as well as voltage and current measurements.

At least twice a year, you should check the tension of the drive belt, excessive weakening of which leads to a decrease in the performance of the generator, and sometimes can lead to breakdown of the device. Once a year, you can check equipment elements - fasteners, diode bridge, voltage regulator and others.

Timely maintenance of the battery will also guarantee the absence of problems - cleaning the terminals, adding distilled water.

Diagnostics of indicators such as voltage, current, resistance are also necessary twice a year. To carry it out, you will need special devices - a voltmeter, multimeter or load fork.

What kind of charging should go to the battery from the generator?

It is traditionally believed that 13.5-14.5V should be supplied by the generator to the battery and this is absolutely enough to replenish the battery costs.

It is worth considering that using a battery with a higher power in a car than the manufacturer recommends also requires the installation of a more productive generating device.

It is necessary to take into account the load that the generator must withstand - it is calculated based on the maximum indicators of all electrical appliances and car systems.

Do not forget that the charging current from the energy-generating device will allow you to start the car in the cold season. In order to avoid problems with starting the car, we recommend purchasing generating equipment, the charge current of which will be approximately 10% of the capacity of the power source.

That is, a battery of 100 A/h requires a generator that can produce 10A. Please note that for many cars, 100 amp equipment will operate at its maximum capacity, because the power consumption of the automotive system is in the region of 80 amps.

Therefore, the choice of a source generating energy must take into account both the battery capacity and network consumption.

How to check the alternator voltage on the battery

The potential difference can be diagnosed in two ways - directly at the generating equipment and through the battery. The generator is directly connected to the power source with a thick wire, therefore, to check the level of potential difference, you can measure the voltage at the power source. To do this, you will need special devices - a voltmeter, multimeter or load plug.

The wires of the first measuring instruments are connected to the battery in any sequence. The plug must be connected to the battery terminals with strict observance of polarity. It is generally accepted that the normal voltage in the network should not be lower than 12 volts. At idle speed without turning on all the electrical appliances of the car, this indicator should be at the level of 13.5-14V. A drop in voltage values ​​to 13.3-13.8 volts is considered acceptable.

At the same time, using conventional testing equipment, you can check the resistance of the generator elements - rotor, stator and diode bridge. Diagnostics of rotary equipment is carried out by its winding. It is necessary to connect the probes of the device with slip rings. If the multimeter gives readings from 2, 3 to 5.1 ohms, then this element is working. The current consumption of the winding should be within 3-4.5 amperes.

Its normal resistance is 0.2 Ohm. The diode bridge is checked by the presence or absence of resistance, the indicators do not matter. The only thing worth considering is that there should not be a zero dimension. Measurements are carried out in pairs - positive output and all plates on this side or minus and all elements.

We remind you that for normal charging of a car battery, the voltage supplied by the generator must be from 13.5 to 14 volts.

How many amperes does a car alternator produce per battery?

The current strength required by the electrical system of each car is individual and depends on the number of electricity consumers and their values. And also the charge current must be sufficient to charge the power source.

It is worth noting that ampere readings appear only when there is a load in the vehicle’s electrical system and, accordingly, the battery is discharged. After starting the car engine, the charging current is about 6-10 amperes and drops over time, because the battery is charging, taking on the main energy consumption. If you turn on additional equipment - headlights, radio or heated mirrors, you can see an increase in the charging current values.

When purchasing a generator, pay attention to its technical characteristics, which the manufacturer indicates on the case - that’s where you will find information about the maximum current that will flow to the battery.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ur7U2w-28K0

In the table below you can see the approximate current values ​​​​that the generator shows at different loads.

Table 1. How many amperes the generator produces under load.

Signs of a generator malfunction

In modern cars, breakdowns of the electrical system are one of the most common. A large number of electronics requires particularly careful monitoring of the operation and condition of the generator and battery, because their failure can immobilize the car. The most common signs of a generator malfunction are:

• battery indicator light on the instrument panel;
• unstable operation of the battery (its boiling over or undercharging);
• different intensity of headlights;
• extraneous sounds from the generator.

Source: https://autobryansk.info/skolko-dolzhna-byt-zarjadka-na-gazeli.html

Types of Gazelle generators

The type of generator installed on Gazelle commercial vehicles depends on the engine model - the first GAZ-3302 vehicles had two types of engines:

The second generation of Gazelles began to be equipped with ZMZ-405 and Chrysler 2.4 engines; Gazelle Business cars, produced since 2010, are equipped with UMZ-4216 and Cummins engines, respectively, and other types of generator devices are installed on them.

Generators come in different capacities and are capable of producing currents of different magnitudes. The standard current source is calculated with a small power reserve, but additional electricity consumption is not taken into account here. Additional energy consumers can be:

• electric windows;
• electrical antenna:
• audio system;
• air conditioner;
• additional cooling fan in the cabin;
• additional heater motor.

If the generator turns out to be weak, it will not be charged enough, which may result in the battery being discharged. Therefore, in many cases, Gazelle owners try to install a more powerful current source - the car will not suffer in any way from the power reserve. For gazelles, there are generators that produce current 65/75/90/100/115/120/135 Amperes. There is a misconception that if the power of the generator device is high, the electrolyte in the battery may boil. But this is incorrect - the generator produces current depending on the load, and the excess voltage is limited by the relay regulator. A powerful generator has only two drawbacks:

• such an electric machine has a higher price;
• a dimensional unit may not always fit in size.

Additional block

Under the hood of the gas 3110 on the left mudguard there is an additional block of two fuses:

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• a 30A fuse protects the engine cooling fan circuit;
• A 60A fuse protects all circuits except the starter circuit.

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To gain access, you must remove the unit cover.

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And next to it there are some relays, for example, ignition and electric fan.

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Malfunctions of Gazelle generators

The generator, like any other part in the car, tends to break down; there are several types of malfunctions:

• charging disappears completely;
• there is an “undercharge”;
• high voltage appears in the network (more than 14.7 Volts);
• the generator starts to make noise.

There can be several reasons for the noise:

• bearings are worn out or defective;
• the drive belt has defects;
• The belt tension is weak, and therefore a whistle occurs;
• the impeller touches the belt or generator housing;
• pulley damaged;
• The generator fastener came loose.

If the voltage in the vehicle's on-board network is higher than the permissible norm, there is only one cause of the malfunction - the relay regulator has failed. For the same reason, there may be an undercharge - the voltage regulator does not cope with its functions.

If there is not enough charging, or it is completely absent, there may be several reasons for such problems:

• the brushes in the brush assembly are worn out;
• there are breaks or short circuits in the armature winding;
• these same defects are present in the stator winding;
• The diode bridge is faulty.

Gazelle Euro 3 generator poor charging reason

I measured the charge on the generator itself, how much does it give out?

measured at the terminals

They installed a known good battery for comparison...

Is the belt tensioned properly?

integral inside genes?

what is an integral?))

well, she’s got the brushes, she’s round... in the gazelle the gene is exactly ten-thousand...

check it as in the picture, the light should be on

Will the diode work with the dimensions?

The diode will work, but you can reverse the polarity and it won’t light up. better lamp

OK! I'll go check it out now.

checked! connected the fog light - lights up

If the charging is half (he wrote 13.45 V), then it is either the stator winding (turn-to-turn, short to ground) or a diode bridge. Check the horseshoe with a tester, if everything is normal, then change the stator winding

How to check the bridge?

You separate the horseshoe from the stator. Let's call these places phases. First you apply +12V to the phase, hook the control with a crocodile to the minus of the power source with a probe to the thick positive terminal of the horseshoe, then to the negative terminal. In one case, the control should light up, in the other it should not. After checking all the phases “ “on the plus” we apply a minus, and you hook the control crocodile to the “+” of the power supply with a probe, first to the minus and then to the positive terminal of the horseshoe. During any tests, the control should first light up and then not (or vice versa). IT SHOULD NOT BE ON BOTH SIDES (the diode is broken) OR BOTH WILL NOT BURN (the diode is broken). I hope I explained it clearly

Alternator belt Gazelle

On Gazelle cars, the alternator belt drives the generator, thereby ensuring rotation of the rotor, thereby generating the electrical current necessary for the on-board network. Different engine models are equipped with different types and sizes of belts:

• ZMZ-402 – toothed or smooth poly-V belt, size – 10x1030 mm;
• UMZ-4216 - the same type as on the ZMZ-402 motor, size - 13x1040;
• ZMZ-406 (405) with power steering - multi-ribbed type, length - 1420 mm;
• ZMZ-406 (405) without power steering - multi-stream type, 1220 mm;
• Chrysler – poly-V-type, 1750 mm;
• Cummins 2.8 – multi-stream type, 1226 mm.

Depending on the engine model and manufacturer, alternator belts can vary in price; over time, they wear out and must be replaced. Since the belt drive also ensures the rotation of the water pump, when the generator belt is too tight, noise appears from the bearings of the pump and the generator itself. You can’t do a very weak stretch either:

• charging disappears;
• the water pump pumps weakly, and accordingly, the engine begins to overheat;
• A very unpleasant belt whistle appears.

Relay block

In the cabin, under the panel, near the driver’s left foot, a relay block is mounted on the wall. Depending on the configuration and year of manufacture, different arrangements of elements are possible.

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I can find it here:

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• rear window defroster relay
• headlight high beam relay
• low beam headlight relay
• wiper relay
• heater motor relay
• horn relay
• fog light relay
• turn signal relay.

Prices for Gazelle generators

For Gazelle and Sobol cars, generators are produced by different manufacturers, the most well-known companies are:

• ELDIX (Bulgaria);
• PRAMO-ISKRA (city of Rzhev);
• KZATE (old name KATEK, Samara);
• BATE (Belarus).

In 2016, generators for GAZ commercial vehicles cost on average from 4,000 to 9,000 rubles; the cost of the unit largely depends on the manufacturer, engine model and the power of the generator itself. The most expensive parts are for the Cummins turbodiesel, prices for spare parts range from 8 to 15 thousand rubles, the most expensive are original production parts. The ZMZ-402 generator produced by KZATE for 65 Amperes is relatively inexpensive - on average 4.5-5 thousand rubles.

Electrical diagram Gas 3110

More information about the electrical equipment of the GAZ-3110 with the ZMZ-402 engine can be found in this electrical diagram, and the description for it is here.

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And if you have any questions, ask them in the comments.

The Volga and Gazelle were equipped with a ZMZ 402 engine. For this version of the car, a generator of type 16 KZATE or 19 ATE1 (Eltra) was used. These generators were completely interchangeable. They were identical in design and allowed the mutual use of parts for repairs.

Generator replacement

The entire generator unit on a car is changed in the following cases:

• if many parts in the device require replacement, and repairing the unit is not economically profitable, it is easier and cheaper to buy a new generator;
• you need to go on a flight urgently, and there is no time to do repairs;
• a new generator is installed, and the old one is repaired and put away as a reserve - it is a backup.

The difficulty of replacing the generator unit also depends on the engine model, but on any engine the work is done quite quickly, since it is still simple on all brands of Gazelle cars. The easiest way is to replace the generator on a car with a 402 engine; we carry out the work as follows;

• we place the car on a flat surface; in this case, you can easily do without a pit or a car lift;
• de-energize the electrical circuit - remove the terminal from the battery (preferably the mass one);
• unscrew the nut securing the power wire from the back of the generator (10 mm wrench);
• pull out the generator brush connector;
• unscrew the bolt of the tension bar of the alternator belt (12 mm wrench);
• first move the generator towards the engine with your hands, remove the generator belt;
• then we pull it away from the engine, unscrew the bolts and nuts (2 pcs.) – securing the generator unit to the brackets;

• dismantle the unit, install a new generator, attaching it to bolts and nuts;
• Do not tighten the fasteners all the way, press the generator housing against the engine, and put on the belt;
• Using a wrench or pry bar, we tension the belt and tighten the tension bolt;

• After tensioning the belt, we secure the bolts and nuts to the end - they are now located under the generator, and getting to them is somewhat more difficult.

Repair GAZ 3110 (Volga): Checking and replacing generator brushes

You can check and replace the brushes without removing the generator from the car.

Gas 3110. Generator repair. Volga

Repairing a generator yourself is difficult and impractical, since a special stand will be required to determine its serviceability and compliance with its characteristics.

Therefore, it is better to entrust generator repair to qualified specialists at a service station, where you can also replace the generator from the exchange fund. Such a generator will be 50% cheaper than a new one.

However, before replacing the generator, you can carry out some checks.

Checking the voltage regulator
on a car
To check the voltage regulator, you must have a DC voltmeter with a scale of up to 15 - 30 V, accuracy class no worse than 1.0.

Check the voltage regulator installed on the car in the following order:

• start the engine and let it run for about 15 minutes at medium speed;
• using a voltmeter, measure the voltage between terminal “30” and the “ground” of the generator;
• The voltage should be between 13.3 - 14.6 V.

If there is a systematic undercharging or overcharging of the battery and the regulated voltage does not fall within the specified limits, the voltage regulator must be replaced. In addition, it is necessary to check the condition of the carbon brushes.

Checking the condition of the carbon brushes

Although this work can be done with the generator installed, it is still recommended to remove the generator from the vehicle.