VAZ-2110, 8 valves (injector) does not start - why?

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How often do owners of domestic cars have to deal with situations where turning the key in the ignition does not produce any result. That is, the car simply does not start.

Of course, this problem most often occurs during the cold season. After all, during the night spent in a parking lot or even in a garage, the engine cools down greatly, its temperature becomes extremely low. Due to the difficulty of warming up the system, the car starts with difficulty.

But there are situations when, even in the heat, the engine still refuses to turn on after turning the key.

There may be several reasons. We will try to study each of them in detail in our material.


It's beautiful, but it's worth it

Battery

The first thing you should pay attention to is the battery. Open the hood and see if the terminals are tight. The banal reason that the VAZ 2110 8 valve (injector) does not start is a poor fit of the positive or negative terminal. But do not exclude the possibility of the battery itself being discharged, especially in winter or after a long period of inactivity. You need to measure the battery voltage. If it is below 12, it should be charged. The battery produces normal starting current at 14-14.5 Volts. Useful advice from experienced motorists - in winter, remove the battery at night and store it at home. This way you have a better chance of successfully starting the engine. You will spend much less time than if you fiddle with the charger (especially if the car is in the yard and not in the garage). And when the car sits for more than a week, remove one of the terminals from it. Some elements can work constantly and reduce the voltage a little.

Battery problems

First of all, if the VAZ 2110 does not start, but the starter turns, you should check the operation of the battery. The voltage at the terminals of a fully charged battery will correspond to a value of 12.6 V. When completely discharged, it drops to a level of 10.5 V. But even a high value of battery voltage at idle does not guarantee its stable operation, which will be discussed in more detail shortly below.


Good battery

It is worth understanding that lead batteries cannot be completely discharged. In addition, their capacity may decrease significantly depending on the number of operating cycles and the total service life. Thus, a battery with a high no-load voltage level, with electrical receivers disconnected, may be unable to produce the necessary power for the starter to operate. How can I check this?

You can determine the fact that the battery does not have the required capacity (Ampere hours) left using the same multimeter, which reads the voltage level at the battery terminals at the moment the engine starts. If the voltage drops below 10.5 V, it means the battery is completely discharged or has failed and is unable to start the VAZ-2110 starter.


Checking battery density replacement

Among the main reasons for battery self-discharge are the following:

  1. the generator has failed or the voltage regulator is not working;
  2. the ignition key is left on for a long time;
  3. improper operation of the battery, failure due to physical wear and exhaustion of its working life;
  4. electrical wiring faults.

In order to prevent problems with the battery and generator operation, there is a special indication on the VAZ dashboard. It reports possible problems with the generator, a broken belt drive from the drive shaft to the generator, or a faulty battery. If you don’t want to buy a new battery prematurely, problems with the generator should be resolved in the next 50-100 km. mileage after the corresponding indication appears on the dashboard.

Fuse

It would be a good idea to check details such as fuses. VAZ 2110 injector 8 valves may not start due to burnt elements. Open the fuse box and check their integrity. There is a thin wire running through the center - if the current is above a certain value (5, 15, 20 Amperes), it burns out.

In our case, it could be the fuel pump fuse. If it doesn't hum, that's definitely the problem. Often replacing the fuse will make it work again.

Wiring


On almost all car models, the wiring to the fuel pump consists of three wires: “positive”, “negative” and a wire for determining the amount of fuel in the tank. If the fuel pump stops pumping, the wiring may be damaged. You can check the power using a 12 W lamp, powering it from the external connector of the fuel pump. When the ignition is turned on, the light should light up. If not, then the external circuit is broken somewhere.

To check the external wiring, you need to connect in turn the “positive” and “negative” contacts removed from the fuel pump power connector. It is necessary to close the “negative” contact to ground, after which the light will light up when the ignition is turned on. So, it can be determined that the contact is inoperative. If the lamp does not light up, then the “positive” contact is damaged. Placing a contact on the relay in which the light does not light up, there may be a problem with the wiring in the section from the relay to the fuel pump.

Candles

If the ignition is on (VAZ 2110 injector 8 valves included), the battery is charged and the fuses are intact, you need to check the spark plugs. This is one of the common problems that occurs on injection engines. For some reason, the car does not start, but gasoline continues to flow into the combustion chamber. As a result, the spark plugs become flooded with fuel. And instead of producing a spark, the flammable mixture extinguishes the candles. They become wet.

The spark misses the electrode and ignition does not occur. Advice from experienced motorists: when turning the ignition key, you need to press the accelerator to the floor. This will dry out the combustion chamber - more air will enter it. If after three to five attempts you are unable to start the engine, do not discharge the battery. To check, we need to unscrew the spark plugs. Here you will need a special hex key. It has a different diameter for each candle model. First, remove the high-voltage wire. This must be done very carefully. If you pull it by force, it will break and it will be impossible to repair it. Rotate it clockwise and counterclockwise and pull it slightly towards you (at the base). We unscrew the element and look at the electrode. If the end of the candle is wet, and it itself has a characteristic smell of gasoline, it means it has been “flooded.”

Timing belt broke

VAZ 2110 does not start, the starter turns - perhaps the reason lies in a broken timing belt?

The engine gas distribution mechanism is driven by the crankshaft gear. Initially, chains were used for this purpose, and timing belts, which began to be widely used about twenty years ago, aroused mistrust among car owners.

The undoubted advantages of a belt drive over a chain drive are its simple design, low weight and low noise. However, it is not without its drawbacks, the main one of which is the relatively short resource of the timing belt.

Of course, a faulty, torn or misaligned timing belt also causes the VAZ 2110 to fail to start. By the way, on stock, non-deformed models of the 21120 engine, a torn timing belt also causes valve deformation and requires additional repairs. In this case, driving even after replacing the belt without restoring the valves is impossible.


New timing belt VAZ 2110

Check for the presence of a spark in the spark plugs visually by turning on the ignition and pressing the outer metal part of the spark plug against the unpainted metal body of the car or against structural elements. Do not forget that all electrical parts of the product are under high voltage, so it is better to carry out work with insulating gloves. If there is no spark on only one spark plug, be sure to check the others and draw the appropriate conclusions.

The consequences of a broken timing belt depend entirely on the design of the power unit. To imagine what will happen at this moment, you need to turn to the mechanics of the internal combustion engine.

In a running engine, the pistons continuously move from one dead center to another. During the intake stroke, the piston moves down and the intake valve opens; during the exhaust stroke, the exhaust valve opens and the piston moves up. At the moment when the piston is at top dead center, all valves must be closed. If the timing belt breaks, the camshaft stops rotating and the valves stop in one position. At the same time, the crankshaft continues to rotate by inertia, and the pistons rush towards the open valves.


Timing belt VAZ 2110 OPEN

In some engines, for example, the 8-valve VAZ-2111, the pistons have special recesses to avoid contact with the valves in the event of a break. In this case, there will be no consequences, except that the car will not be able to get to the garage or workshop under its own power.

How to dry a candle?

As we said earlier, you can start with the gas pedal depressed. But this doesn't always work. They may have an oil coating or carbon deposits on them. So, we take the unscrewed candles to a warm room. Be sure to pay attention to the color of the electrode. If it is red, it means you have used fuel with a lot of additives. They not only kill spark plugs, but also oxygen sensors. VAZ 2110 8-valve injector with a black coating of spark plugs indicates that oil is entering the combustion chamber. These could be burnt-out rings or valve stem seals.

But whatever the deposit, the candle must be dried and treated in acid. It won’t corrode the electrodes – on the contrary, it’s even better. If there is no time, we wipe it from plaque and gasoline and install it in place. Often the spark does not reach the electrode due to carbon deposits. Therefore, the VAZ 2110 8 valve (injector) does not start.

VAZ 2110 bad hot start

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To understand why the car does not start well when hot, the VAZ 2110 injector, you should know that this car needs to create optimal operating conditions. Otherwise, there may be interruptions in the system that lead to this result.

It starts well when cold, but poorly when hot - the main reasons

Often, in the morning, a car starts well when it’s cold, but when it’s hot, it starts poorly or doesn’t show any signs at all. In this case, there are many causes of malfunctions. They need to be eliminated quickly, because they can become sources of more serious damage.

Poor quality fuel

The first reason why a car has trouble starting when hot, the VAZ 2110 injector is often low-quality fuel. The engine starts for a long time, but this does not bring any results. To eliminate this problem, you should change the fuel.

A large number of additives has a bad effect on the engine:

  • The supplied fuel does not meet the requirements of the engine, and therefore is perceived poorly by it.
  • The filters are becoming clogged with foreign additives. The pump is unable to supply sufficient fuel.
  • Engine settings are lost. The supply of hot combustible mixture is insufficient.

Basic technical requirements for fuel characteristics

Fuel characteristics (gasoline)UnitAutomotive regulations
environmental class 2environmental class 3environmental class 4
Lead concentration, no moremg/dm³105
Sulfur concentration, no moremg/ct50015050
Volume fraction of hydrocarbons, no more than:percent
aromaticnot installed4235
olefinicnot installed1818
Volume fraction of benzene, no morepercent511
Mass fraction of oxygen, no morepercentnot installed2,72.7
Saturated vapor pressure taking into account climatic conditions:kPa
in summer45-8045-8045-80
in winter50-10050-10050-100
Intake valve depositsnot installedcompliance with European gasolines for automobiles

How to check it?

For this we need a multimeter. We measure the resistance of the crankshaft sensor coil. It should be between 500 and 700 ohms. On the multimeter itself, we set the limit to 200 millivolts and attach the probes to the sensor outputs.

We pass a steel object several times in front of the core. If the element is working, it should recognize it, and the multimeter will show the readings described above. If there are none, the sensor has become unusable. It cannot be repaired - only replaced.

Messages 15

  • vam_sam
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  • Registration: 2015-08-14
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  • Car: VAZ 2111

Topic: Very difficult to start, especially when cold, takes a long time to turn (video)

Hello everyone, I’m back with my 21113 16kl, the car still starts up disgustingly. Namely, it doesn’t start right away, but it spins for 4 seconds, after which it farts for 2-3 seconds with vibration in the body and rpm of 850-1000, after which the warm-up starts at 1300, this happens only after a long stay, if the engine is warm, it starts without this, but it also turns for a long time, but for some reason immediately after starting it drops the revolutions to 500, and gets up to 850 immediately after a second. I decided to write because today I decided to blow out the cylinders, in the end it stopped gripping altogether, only if I give it some gas, I’m fundamentally not happy with it. The fuel pump, air flow sensor are working, the spark plugs are from January, the same thing happened on the old ones. This is a very tough option at -20, it seems like it was in the winter, and this is also not what is usual, but almost imperceptibly, something in between the first and second video consistently happens. Where to dig? For now, the plan is to try replacing the ignition module and wires, but if you pull the current ones one by one, the engine starts to shake

Filters

It happens that the car stops starting due to a dirty filter. There are only two of them. These are fuel and air. You need to check both, but first the last one (since it is easier to remove). If its condition leaves much to be desired, it needs to be replaced.

In this case, air is not able to enter the cylinders, which is why there is a lot of gasoline in the chamber and floods the spark plugs on the VAZ 2110 8 valves. The injector may also fail due to poor fuel supply. In this case, you need to replace the gasoline filter. When purchasing, please note that there are carburetor and injection filters. They are easy to confuse, and they are designed for different pressures.

Some useful recommendations

If one fine morning the owner of a car gets behind the wheel, but cannot start the car, do not despair, let alone panic.
You must try to find the cause and make an accurate diagnosis of your sick iron horse. The cause may be a dead battery. It happens that a motorist forgot to turn off the headlights and the car stood there all night with the headlights on. Of course, it is possible to leave, but it is clearly impossible to do without outside help. It is necessary to find out whether the starter rotates. If yes, what is their intensity? It may be that the starter does not turn or click at all. So it just broke down. Then you’ll have to take another car; you’ll hardly have to go anywhere with this one. Of course, the problem may lie in the battery. In the simplest case, the terminal may simply fall off. Then you should tighten their fastening. You can try to leave by starting the car "with a push". But if the car has an automatic transmission, you don’t even have to try to do this. Nothing will come of this. The same applies to electronic fuel injection.

In such a situation, you can try to “light” a neighbor, but on some cars this can damage the on-board computer.

If the starter operates in vigorous mode, but the engine does not start, the battery should not be blamed for this. Most likely the problem lies in the fuel supply or ignition system.

Nozzle

The main difference between the injection and carburetor power systems is the absence of nozzles in the latter. The mixture is prepared under high pressure. If the injector does not produce it, the car will start poorly and run unstably. Due to low-quality fuel, it becomes clogged. Moreover, a dust particle larger than 10 microns in size is sufficient for this. How to check? If the engine still starts, listen to the engine. If it triples and the injector on this cylinder is cold, it means it has become unusable. You can clean it of dirt using ultrasound. This procedure is performed on a specialized stand.

VAZ 2112 16 valves no spark reason

The engine stalled while driving, 21124, 16 cl. There is no spark in any cylinder.

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Only if the DPKV is faulty, the engine will not work. If any other sensor malfunctions, the engine somehow works in order to get home or to a service station.

And another reason when the engine stalls while driving is a broken timing belt.

You can also think about a faulty ignition module, but they mostly fail partially, that is, some cylinders will not get a spark, but others will; although, as an option, maybe he “quacked” the whole team. But if you have individual ignition coils, then this option is eliminated; all 4 pieces will not burn out at the same time.

If the engine does not start, but you can hear the fuel pump in the tank turning on and running, you need to check the operation of the ignition system. To do this, you need to check for the presence of a spark discharge on high-voltage wires. In this case, be sure to use a spark gap.

If you check for a break in the presence of a spark by placing the wire at a certain distance from the ground of the car, the ignition module or controller may fail due to the appearance of a large self-induction current with a large spark gap.

In addition, you can get quite noticeable and unpleasant sensations when receiving an electric shock when the insulation breaks down.

In the case when you check the spark discharge by placing a spark plug with a non-high-voltage wire on the engine body, also due to poor contact of the spark plug body with ground, a large self-induction current can form, which will lead to damage to the controller or ignition module.

The use of a spark gap is also more convenient, since most injection engines use static ignition distribution with the simultaneous supply of high voltage to two spark plugs. It is not difficult to make a spark gap yourself; here you can find several examples.

A drawing of a spark gap for simultaneously checking a spark on four high-voltage wires and a photo for checking a spark on two high-voltage wires. PAfter connecting the spark gap, crank the engine with the starter and observe the presence of a spark discharge.

The absence of a spark on one wire, when high voltage is distributed simultaneously to two spark plugs, indicates a breakdown to ground of the wire or the output of the ignition coil (ignition module).

A break in the wire or winding of the ignition coil (module) is also possible. If there is no spark at the same time on a pair of wires 1-4 or 2-3, then the ignition coil, ignition module or controller is faulty. Breakage of high-voltage wires also cannot be ruled out.

To check the integrity of high-voltage wires, it is necessary to check their resistance; it should not exceed 200 kOhm, and there should not be a large difference in resistance in a set of identical wires.

Doesn't start well and boils

In this case, the reason lies in the coolant. Check its level. If necessary, dilute with distilled water. However, there is no need to mix different brands of antifreeze. It may foam, which will further accelerate overheating.

The thermostat may also break. The VAZ 2110 8-valve injector is equipped with a two-piston element. It's very easy to check. To do this, you need a burner and a pan of water. Place the thermostat in the container and wait for the water to boil. If bubbles appear and the piston does not move, it means the element is faulty. The temperature at which it should operate is indicated on the metal body of the thermostat. The element cannot be repaired - it must only be replaced. As a result, the system is unable to regulate the operating temperature of the antifreeze. The coolant moves only in a small circle. But the car may start poorly (every once in a while) due to an incorrectly adjusted ignition. Most "ten" cars have a distributor ignition. Here you need to set the correct lead angle.

Checking the starter

The starters installed on the VAZ 2112 are relatively reliable. But if, after all the checks carried out above, it was not possible to identify the reason for the inability to start, then you should remove it for diagnostics.

It will be extremely difficult to disassemble and check all its components on your own. First of all, you need to check: is voltage coming to the starter power contacts? Often it is a cable break, a crease, or contact oxidation that leads to the impossibility of starting the motor.

It should be noted that if there are problems with starting, it is difficult to determine a hot fault. If you cannot cope with the repair yourself, then you should contact a qualified service center.

For what reasons is fuel not supplied to the cylinders?

So, the general scheme of operation of the power system involves taking fuel from the gas tank, after which the fuel enters the carburetor or injector.

Next, the fuel is supplied to the intake manifold, then the fuel-air mixture enters the combustion chamber through the intake valves.

Common problems with the supply of gasoline to the internal combustion engine

  • If we exclude leaks, the next reason why gasoline is not supplied to the engine is various problems with the fuel pump. Note that on cars with a carburetor there is a mechanical type fuel pump and is located in the engine compartment.

At the same time, injection engines have an electric fuel pump. This pump is located directly in the fuel tank. If we talk about a mechanical device, then often its breakdown or incorrect operation results from damage to the membranes, as well as overheating.

Let us add that if the device is not able to create the required pressure in the fuel system (no or low pressure), then the injectors on some internal combustion engines may not open, and in this case the engine will not start. In other cases, the injectors still open, but there is still not enough fuel. In this case, the unit begins to work intermittently, stalls in different modes, etc.

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