VAZ 2110 injector takes a long time to start - 8 and 16 valves, what to do if the problem is cold renoshka.ru

There are many reasons why the fuel-injected VAZ-2110 with 8 valves does not start well after being parked overnight. A particularly common situation is when everything was fine in the evening, and in the morning an unpleasant surprise is discovered in the form of a non-working car. Next, we will consider what reasons can lead to difficulties in starting the injection VAZ-2110 and what to do to fix the problem.

To determine why a car has trouble starting, you need to know how it works. A spark is responsible for starting the engine, which, in turn, is completely dependent on the ignition system and the fuel-air mixture, supplied in precisely metered proportions.

If one component of this chain is broken, starting is problematic or completely impossible.

How long does it take for a VAZ 2110 injector to start? Fix the problem yourself

Patriots of the domestic automobile industry often encounter a problem: the VAZ 2110 injector takes a long time to start.
Let's make a reservation right away - in most cases this is not caused by the design features of the car, but by the low level of prevention on the part of car owners. As they say, “thunder will not strike...”, in other words, our compatriots prefer to heroically and selflessly eliminate breakdowns, rather than prevent them.

How long does it take for a VAZ 2110 injector to start? There may be several reasons; they will be discussed in some detail below. Let's list the main

failure of the timing belt;
wear of insulation on high-voltage wires;
temperature sensor failure;

The list is not exhaustive, but it identifies the main causes of engine starting problems. The analysis provides the only sure way to avoid problems - it is enough to carry out preventive inspections and replace questionable components in a timely manner (for example, sensors are guaranteed to last for 60,000 km.

). Of course, this advice is not able to console those who have already encountered a breakdown, but for the future...

Let's talk about the listed breakdowns in a little more detail. As for the timing belt, everything is clear here - it must be replaced as it wears out.

Wire insulation

may be damaged during the operation of the car - for example, the ignition module wire often melts from high temperature (it is located in close proximity to the cylinder head, and it regularly overheats).

There may be other reasons for the violation of the integrity of the insulation. The resulting short circuits prevent the engine from starting - and this deficiency can occur periodically.

Temperature sensor

. If there is a problem with this part (and even more so if it fails), problems arise with testing by the on-board computer - it is not able to correctly determine the engine temperature and, accordingly, the required amount of fuel mixture. The only (and least expensive) method of “treatment” is to replace the sensor. You can, of course, test it for functionality, but this requires special equipment.

Ignition module. Repairing it at home is quite complicated, so the “recipe” is the same - replacement. If it is possible to temporarily install a known-good module and try to start with it, then it’s worth a try.

Candles

. Apparently, troubleshooting needs to start with them. Soot, the presence of traces of fuel and other deviations from the norm confidently indicate incorrect operation. See signs of bad spark plugs.

For a beginner, the best solution would be to completely replace the set; people who are not unfamiliar with technical skills can try to “revive” the candles - thoroughly wipe them, clean them from carbon deposits, heat them with a blowtorch, etc. If after replacement the spark plugs are refilled, then there is a high probability that the integrity of the insulation in the high-voltage wires will be damaged.

By the way, with the help of a working spark plug it is easy to check for the presence of a spark: you need to place the spark plug on the ground of the car with a metal surface and start the starter. The absence of a spark indicates problems with the power supply, but in a positive case, you need to continue diagnostics.

Let us mention one more reason for the malfunction: low throughput of the fuel filter. This is entirely on the conscience of the car owner, who ignored the timely replacement of the part, although it is possible that the filter becomes clogged due to the use of low-quality fuel.

How to eliminate floating idle speed on Lada Largus

One of the shortcomings that was noticed by owners of Lada Largus cars is floating speed after starting the engine in the morning. A long search for the cause of the unstable operation of the power unit led to the throttle assembly. It turns out that the whole problem lies in air leaks through the connections of the intake receiver and the remote control.

To troubleshoot the problem we will need:

Ratchet heads for 6 and 8
Torx key T-25
Neutral sealant (odorless)
FUM tape with a thickness of 0.075 mm, which is used by plumbers to seal threaded connections.
Silicone Grease
Clamp with screw tensioner 22x27 to strengthen the idle air channel hose

Instructions for eliminating floating speed on Lada Largus

We disconnect and remove the throttle cable stopper from the lever on the throttle assembly.

There is no gasoline in the tank.	On the instrument panel the fuel level arrow is at zero.	Fill with gasoline.
Low battery charge.	A characteristic crackling sound when trying to start. When checking the voltage it shows less than 12V.	Charge the battery.
Loose contact of battery terminals or their oxidation.	Crackling sound from under the hood. Low voltage on-board network.	Clean the terminals and fit them onto the battery terminals as tightly as possible.
There are no connections between the electrical circuits of the power supply and control systems	Checking the reliability of the connection of the wire blocks.	Connect the connectors tightly.
The rotation of the crankshaft is difficult (scuffing of the piston group, liners, deformation of the shaft, jammed water pump, generator).	Slow rotation of the crankshaft, extraneous noise when starting and running the engine.	Replacement of failed parts.
Problems with the ignition system.	Netiskra.	Check all elements and parts of the ignition system, replace if necessary.
High voltage wires are installed out of order or disconnected.	Inspection.	Install in the correct sequence and replace if necessary.
Broken or worn timing belt.	Visual inspection.	Replacing the timing belt.
The valve timing is disrupted.	Inspect the location of the crankshaft and camshaft marks.	Set the phases according to the marks.
Malfunctions in the electronic engine control unit (ECU): crankshaft position sensors, coolant temperature sensors, phase sensors.	Find out whether power is supplied to the ECU, whether there is an open circuit, check the serviceability of the sensors.	If necessary, change the software of the control unit or replace the ECU, as well as the sensors.
The IAC (idle air regulator) has failed.	Check the IAC (if the engine starts only with the gas pedal pressed, and stalls when it is released).	Replace the regulator.
Control system fuse or relay has blown.	Checking the relay and fuse.	After eliminating the cause of the blown fuses, replace them.
The fuel pump is faulty, the fuel pump relay fuse has blown.	After turning the ignition key, there is no characteristic sound of the pump in the gas tank when fuel begins to flow into the ramp. Check the fuse, apply voltage directly from the battery.	Replace faulty parts.
Fuel filter clogged, water freezing in the fuel line.	Measure the pressure in the fuel system.	Replace the fuel filter and fuel line parts.
Low pressure in the fuel rail.	Check the pressure, fuel pump filter and fuel line for damage.	Replace the filter or fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator.
Faulty injectors.	Check the functionality of the injectors.	Replace faulty parts.
Air in the intake system.	Inspect the intake parts for air leaks, check the vacuum brake booster.	Eliminate air leaks, replace the faulty brake booster.

Appeal to professionals

The reasons and ways to eliminate them briefly discussed here will hopefully answer the question of why the VAZ 2110 injector takes so long to start.

Let us make a reservation that even a non-specialist is capable of carrying out basic diagnostics of a car, however, it is quite possible that this will not be enough - the causes of a malfunction can be complex, i.e., in some cases there are several prerequisites for delaying engine starting. The best solution is to seek help from professionals (car service).

Ignition coil

If there is electricity in the circuit, it is the coil that almost completely fails. There is no point in repairing it, so the unit must be replaced with a working one.

As practice shows, problems with the winding often arise due to poor contact of the electrical wiring connected to it. Often the reason for this is banal pollution.

When the above manipulations do not bring results, it is necessary to check the functionality of the switch or distributor in the engine (depending on the type of power plant - injector or carburetor).

To do this, remove the protective cover and:

check the presence of current with a tester;
clean contacts from dirt;
make sure they are held securely.

All other wiring problems must be repaired only at a service center. The thing is that only a few car enthusiasts are able to carry out diagnostics on their own. In addition, this requires special professional equipment.

Messages 15

1 Topic by vam_sam 2017-04-28 00:52:36 (2017-04-28 00:56:31 edited by vam_sam)

vam_sam
New member
Inactive

Registration: 2015-08-14
Messages: 22 Thanks : 4
Car: VAZ 2111

Topic: Very difficult to start, especially when cold, takes a long time to turn (video)

Hello everyone, I’m back with my 21113 16kl, the car still starts up disgustingly. Namely, it doesn’t start right away, but it spins for 4 seconds, after which it farts for 2-3 seconds with vibration in the body and rpm of 850-1000, after which the warm-up starts at 1300, this happens only after a long stay, if the engine is warm, it starts without this, but it also turns for a long time, but for some reason immediately after starting it drops the revolutions to 500, and gets up to 850 immediately after a second. I decided to write because today I decided to blow out the cylinders, in the end it stopped gripping altogether, only if I give it some gas, I’m fundamentally not happy with it. The fuel pump and air flow sensor are working properly, the spark plugs are January, the same thing happened on the old ones. This is a very tough option at -20, it seems like it was in the winter [video], and this is also not what it usually is, but almost imperceptibly [video], something consistently happens between the first and second video. Where to dig? For now, the plan is to try replacing the ignition module and wires, but if you pull the current ones one by one, the engine starts to shake

Design features

The main part of the engine, the cylinder block (catalog number 11193-1002011), also differs in size from its predecessor. It is factory painted blue. Its height, the distance from the crankshaft axis to the upper plane, became 197.1 mm, versus 194.8 mm on the 2112 model.

The dimensions of the holes for the block head mounting bolts have changed; they are from the hoist with M10×1.25 threads. The main bearing supports on the 124th engine, from the second to the fifth, are equipped with channels designed to supply oil that cools the piston during operation.

The crankshaft installed is the same as on models 21126 and 11194, with the marking 11183 cast on the sixth counterweight. Due to the crank radius of 37.8 mm, a piston stroke of 75.6 mm was provided. A toothed pulley is installed on the shaft for timing belt drive. The belt is 25.4 mm wide and has 136 teeth, parabolic in shape. Belt service life is 45,000 km.

The pulley is designed to drive additional units using a V-belt. Three types of belts are used, differing in length, depending on the equipment:

If the drive is only for the generator, the belt length is 742 mm.
With power steering - 1115 mm.
With power steering and air conditioning 1125 mm.

The pulley is designed in such a way that it acts as a damper, reducing the torque loads acting on the shaft. Another function is to determine the position of the crankshaft using a sensor and a gear mounted in the damper.

On previous VAZ 16v models without recesses or with recesses of shallower depth, in such a situation there was a risk of bending the valves, which led to expensive repairs. So, concerns and frequently arising questions about whether the valves bend on this engine have been removed.

Oil scraper and compression rings are made of steel or cast iron. The pistons and connecting rods are connected using floating pins, 22 mm in diameter, 60.5 mm in length, secured with retaining rings. The pins and connecting rods are borrowed from the VAZ 2110 modification.

The block head for the 16 valve LADA 21124 engine has an enlarged docking area for the intake manifold flange. Both camshafts for the exhaust and intake valves, as well as the valves themselves, springs, and hydraulic compensators have also been preserved from the previous modification of the engine.

In order to avoid confusion, the shafts are marked with a digital code. If it ends at 14, then this is the exhaust valve shaft, if at 15, then this is the intake shaft.

Another difference is that there is a raw strip on the intake shaft, next to the first pushrod. By adding hydraulic compensators to the design, the manufacturer eliminated the need to maintain valves in terms of adjustment. But, they are very sensitive to the cleanliness and quality of the lubricant. Low-quality oil will quickly damage parts and must be replaced; such repairs are not provided for the VAZ 124.

The spring-valve group is similar to model 2112. Valves with one spring and rods with a diameter of 7 mm (on eight-valve heads their diameter is 8 mm). Toothed pulleys with marks for setting the valve timing are installed on the camshafts. Compared to model 2112, the marks are shifted relative to each other by 2°.

Just like the shafts, the pulleys have differences in design and markings - on the inlet, a strip is welded on the back side, on the outlet it is missing. Both pulleys have markings in the form of circles on the hub.

Correct belt tension is done using support and tension rollers with flanges (to eliminate the possibility of slipping).

The cylinder head gasket is made from asbestos-free material. The holes for the cylinders are made with metal edging.

The intake manifold is combined with the receiver and is made of plastic.

For the first time in cars of the VAZ 2110 family, a catalytic converter was installed, combined with an exhaust manifold. Depending on what EURO 4 or 5 requirements the 124 motor is designed for, a different type of collector is installed.

The design of the fuel rail was updated and it began to be made from stainless steel. The drain line was removed from the fuel system; instead, a bypass valve was installed on the pump to relieve excess pressure. To supply fuel directly to the cylinders, nozzles manufactured by Bosch and Siemens were used.

The ignition coils were installed on spark plugs, each spark plug had its own individual coil, with additional fixation to the valve cover. With this method, high-voltage wires were no longer needed, and the ignition control began to be carried out by Bosch M7.9.7 or Russian January 7.2 control units, intended for EURO-4 and 3.

VAZ 2110 injector takes a long time to start - 8 and 16 valves, what to do if the problem is cold

Hi all! There is a VAZ 2111. Engine 21114 - 8 cells, 1.6. Bosch 797. It always takes a long time to start - both cold and hot. Problem since summer. The remote control was washed. Everything is clean and not clogged. The valves have been adjusted. Cleaned the injectors. I checked the suction pipes and replaced many. The air filter is new. The fuel tank strainer has been replaced. The rail pressure is around 3.8. The check engine light is constantly on. The BC displays a mass loss error (1602). But it’s unlikely that the check is related to this mass error, because she's been around for a long time. There are no problems when driving (I don’t drive). True, there is one nuance - sometimes when accelerating/driving around 2000 rpm there is a certain gag - the car seems to twitch/gouge for a second and then drives normally. The voltage at the mass air flow sensor is 1.04. But there are no floating edges or a noticeable drop in traction. The muffler-resonator connection cuts. But this happened before. I'm tired of twisting new clamps. Scored. But this is true, just in case it can help with the diagnosis) Here are the readings from the BC in three modes - immediately after start (23g), warmed up (88g) - XX and 3000 rpm.

Temperature 23 g Speed 1240 Consumption l/h 2.21 VAF 1.72 v Reg. XX steps 94 DC 0.45 in UOZ 3.7 Air consumption kg/h 23.9

Temperature 88 g Speed 800-840 Consumption l/h 1 VAF 1.5 v Reg. XX steps 36 DC 0.66 in UOZ 9.7 Air consumption kg/h 11.1

Temperature 88 g Speed 3000 Consumption l/h 3.55 VAF 1.92 v Reg. XX steps 80 DC 0.11 V Throttle 4% UOZ 30.7 Air consumption kg/h 34.1

Checking relays and ECUs and other sensors

It may be necessary to remove the fuel pump to check. You will need to remove the rear seat and check the voltage at the pump terminals. The device should show + 12 volts. Then crank the engine using the starter. When it is triggered, they proceed to subsequent actions. It may happen that when you turn the ignition key, the starter does not turn. Then you need to check the reliability of all wires on it. The cause may be a problem in the contact group in the ignition switch.
If it is determined that everything is in order, check the spark on the spark plugs. To do this you will need to open the hood. First, you need to unscrew the spark plug from the first cylinder. It is necessary to throw an armored wire over it and press it against the mass. In this case, the candle must be held with pliers and not with your hands. Otherwise you will get an electric shock. At this time, the assistant starts the engine. All other candles are checked in the same way. If there is a spark on each cylinder, it is necessary to look for ignition problems.
The situations may be different, for example, a spark is present on cylinders 1 and 4, but not on cylinders 2 and 3. The ignition module should be replaced. If the replacement does not give a positive result, you should look for the reason in the output transistor switches to the ignition module from the ECU. The ECU may need to be repaired.
It may happen that there is no spark on any cylinder. VAZ 2110 does not start because there is no spark. Often the reason for this lies in the crankshaft position sensor. The DPKV ECU gives a signal through which pulses are sent to the ignition module so that a spark is formed. The cause of the malfunction may be the lack of connection between the gear and the generator wheel. This can occur even if the DPKV is in full working order. At the same time, the crankshaft rotates, but the sensor will not process these rotations. Many are frightened by the fact that the VAZ 2110 injector has a large number of sensors. Indeed, there are a lot of them, but the reason that the VAZ 2110 does not start the first time is only one thing - the DPKV sensor is faulty.
It is necessary to unscrew the spark plug from the cylinder and check its moisture content. A dry spark plug indicates that the injector is not spraying fuel. Then check the pressure in the fuel rail. It has a special bolt on the side. It must be unscrewed and a pressure gauge inserted in its place. It will show the presence or absence of pressure in the ramp. But it may not be at hand. Then the bolt is unscrewed and the pump starts. If there is pressure in the ramp, a good stream will flow out of the hole.
If there is no pressure, the fuel filter must be replaced. The reason may also be that the line on the way from the fuel tank to the ramp is clogged. If the unscrewed candle turns out to be wet, then they all need to be unscrewed, wiped and dried thoroughly.
Sometimes the reason is that the injectors are clogged and need to be cleaned. Clogged injectors may cause the spark plugs to be flooded with fuel. Dirty injectors are often the reason why a car engine has difficulty starting.
Sometimes the reasons that the VAZ 2110 16 valves does not start may be of a deeper nature. They are very difficult to diagnose. But for the VAZ 2110 this is the exception rather than the rule.

VAZ 2110 injector 8 valves does not start when cold

For owners of a car of this brand, this problem, unfortunately, is not uncommon. It must be said that most of the blame does not belong to the manufacturer, but to the frosty weather conditions in which the car is located.

It will be useful: Ground clearance of the Lada Largus: technical characteristics and real performance of the car, equipment, expert opinion, prices and reviews from motorists

If in winter a car sits outside all night or in a garage that is not heated, then all the problems arise because it has completely cooled down.

At the same time, the metal, fuel, and lubricant change their physical properties.

All this ultimately leads to the fact that it becomes quite difficult to start the power plant. Problems will be added by the fact that the car is not properly maintained regularly.

The most common reasons for this situation are the following:

There is a specific problem with the battery.
The gasoline pump has failed.
The sensors that monitor the crankshaft and those that monitor the condition of the camshaft are faulty.
The problem is the candles.
The alarm goes off.
The system that redistributes fuel is experiencing problems.
An element in the ignition unit has failed.

Why the 16 valve VAZ-2112 injector does not start well when cold: reasons and repairs

Car : VAZ-2112. Asks : Baranov Ivan. The essence of the question : The VAZ-2112 car does not start when cold? What to do?

Good afternoon, I have a VAZ-2112 produced in 2005, with a 16-valve engine. And not so long ago, when it was cold, I began to experience difficulty starting it. At the same time, it may simply not start, and sometimes it starts with difficulty. Tell me what could be the matter?

Carburetor

If there is a problem with it, you must first clean it. With such a task, it is better to turn to specialists - they, in particular, are able to quickly:

adjust the carburetor;
clean its dampers;
check compression.

In severe cases, it is necessary to rinse it completely. However, sometimes the car does not start due to the fact that the bimetallic plate, intended specifically for the cold start of a power plant with a carburetor, has become unusable.

Won't start in the morning? Let's fix it!

There can be many reasons why a motorist finds it difficult to start the engine after parking overnight. This also applies to those situations where the car was started in the evening without any defects, but in the very morning the problems, as they say, are obvious.

In this article, we will look at what are the main reasons that influence the difficulty of starting a VAZ-2112 with a cold engine and how you can quickly solve them.

The video above shows a standard example of how a VAZ-2112 cannot start when cold.

Temperature sensor

When they, or even just one of them, are faulty, the vehicle's on-board computer is unable to properly test the engine and therefore cannot deliver the required amount of fuel to the cylinders.
In this situation, the correct and least expensive option would be to replace the control device that has become unusable. Of course, there is a theoretical possibility of testing it for suitability, but in reality it is difficult to do this at home, since special equipment is required. Calling a car service for this will require quite a lot of money and time.

Starting principle

In order to know why the engine does not start, you need to know exactly how it works. The basis for starting the engine is a spark, which depends on the ignition system and the fuel-air mixture, which is supplied in certain proportions. Therefore, if any of these components does not work as it should, startup becomes difficult or simply impossible.

Main reasons

Among all the reasons why starting an engine can be difficult, we can highlight the main ones that stand out for poor starting of a cold engine:

Low battery charge level - this reason most often occurs in the cold season, when the ambient temperature is significantly below 0 degrees Celsius. Because in such conditions, a dead car battery can lose its charge very quickly. This problem can be solved by simply replacing the battery with a new one, or periodically servicing the old one to recharge it.

The battery on the editorial car was running low. True, it was an 8-valve VAZ-2112. But the meaning is the same.

The order of dismantling does not matter.

Actually, the ramp is under pressure

Throttle valve before and after cleaning

We connect the probes of the measuring device: red to yellow, and black to green (to sensor ground).

Insufficient engine oil pressure

Also, the cause of difficulty starting the engine when cold can be insufficient oil pressure in the system. In this case, the low oil pressure indicator should have warned you about this during the previous trip. Read more about normal oil pressure in this article!

This reason typically appears on a cold engine, since it is much more difficult for thickened oil with insufficient pressure to reach the main components and assemblies of the engine. In this case, you may notice a low oil pressure warning light. However, as follows from practice, such problems do not occur often.

As you can see, problems with starting the engine when cold are not uncommon and there can be various reasons for this. They should be solved from least difficult to most difficult. Since even a minor problem in a small unit can prevent the entire engine from starting.

Why is it dangerous to turn the starter for a long time when starting the engine?

Starting an engine is a process in which the starter and battery are directly involved. They are the ones who suffer the most when starting the engine for a long time. Accordingly, the following problems are possible:

Low battery. Each time you try to start the engine, battery power is consumed. Moreover, if the attempt is not successful, then we can assume that the battery is consuming its charge “idle”. In order for the battery to charge, the engine must start and run for a while. Several unsuccessful attempts to start the engine, and you will get a discharged battery, which will need to be charged from the station, or you can start the engine “by lighting” in other cars;

Most often, you can solve the problem with the starter cranking for a long time when starting the engine without contacting a service center yourself, thereby preventing early failure of the starter.

How to start easier in cold winter

Advice! To make starting the engine in the cold season much easier, we recommend installing an auto-start alarm on your car.

Warming up every certain time. Fuel consumption will suffer, but the likelihood of starting in severe frost will increase

If the temperature drops below 20 degrees minus, you can set the engine to automatically start every three hours. This will not only allow you to get into a warm car in winter, but will also prevent the oil from thickening too much during severe night frosts, which will certainly have a beneficial effect on the condition of the engine as a whole.

Candles

This is where you should start checking the power plant. The fact that they are probably not functioning correctly is indicated by the discovery of:

It would probably be easier for a novice driver to simply change them all together. Those who already have sufficient experience in operating domestic cars can easily revive spark plugs. To do this they need:

clean from dirt;
get rid of soot;
warm up with a blowtorch.

When, even after replacing the spark plugs, the engine still does not start, you have to look further for the cause of the damage.

What to do if your VAZ-2110 (8-valve injector) doesn’t start well: reasons

There are many reasons why the fuel-injected VAZ-2110 with 8 valves does not start well after an overnight stay. A particularly common situation is when everything was fine in the evening, and in the morning an unpleasant surprise is discovered in the form of a non-working car. Next, we will consider what reasons can lead to difficulties in starting the injection VAZ-2110 and what to do to fix the problem.

If one component of this chain is broken, starting is problematic or completely impossible.

Other differences

The engines also differ in their “inhalation” design. The 120th intake consists of two aluminum parts: a manifold (“horn”) and a receiver, connected to each other by rubber corrugations. Unit 21124 is “decorated” by an intake system made of plastic and consisting of a single part.

The ignition system is designed differently. The VAZ 2112 is equipped with an ignition distributor module, and on the 21124, individual coils are installed for each cylinder. Due to differences in intake and ignition systems, valve covers also differ.

The 1.6-liter unit has some other differences from its brother: the pressure regulator has been moved from the fuel rail to the pump, the catalyst is located directly at the cylinder head, there are 2 oxygen sensors (Euro-3) instead of one (Euro-2) for the 1.5 liter. The split timing case design makes it easy to replace the timing belt.

People often ask: where is the serial number of the engine on the VAZ 2112? Indeed, the number located under the air filter is quite difficult to detect. It is located at the rear end of the BC, under the thermostat housing. To find the required numbers, you need to release the air filter mount and tilt it slightly to the side.

Reasons for incorrect startup

Among the existing reasons why the engine does not start well, it is worth highlighting several:

Low battery. This is a common cause and usually occurs in winter, when the air temperature is much below zero. In such conditions, a weak car battery very quickly loses its residual charge. This problem can be solved quite quickly. You need to replace the battery with a new one or charge the old one well.
Fuel pump. With normal starting power from the battery, the car still does not start. The second reason for the problem probably lies in the fuel pump. Your car's engine may not start due to a lack of gasoline in the fuel system. This may be due to a malfunctioning fuel pump that supplies fuel from the gas tank. Checking this malfunction is quite simple. If there is a spark in the spark plugs, but the engine does not start, then the cause of the downtime is the fuel pump.
Sensors The next, no less common reason may be the crankshaft or camshaft sensors. These devices are similar, but they are located in different places: above and below the car. If the battery is fully charged and the fuel pump is in order, then you need to check the condition of the sensors. You can diagnose the condition of the sensors at a service station or independently. Check if there is a spark at the spark plugs when you turn on the ignition. If there is no spark, the cause may be a faulty sensor.
Candles. They are responsible for supplying the spark that is necessary to ignite the air-fuel mixture. Candles under constant loads fail, become dirty, and become covered with soot. Therefore, you need to check their condition, remove carbon deposits and rinse them. But it is better to replace them with new ones at the time of checking. If the engine starts, leave them in place. If not, continue searching for the problem area.
Signaling. In some cases, it happens that a faulty alarm affects the operation of the ignition system. If the cause of the breakdown is not found in the previous elements of the car, you need to check this option. The reason why a car has trouble starting is rarely related to the alarm, but it is still worth checking.
Gas distribution mechanism. It is difficult to independently diagnose an injection VAZ-2110, so it is better if this work is performed by service station specialists using the necessary equipment. To prevent malfunctions of the gas distribution mechanism, do not fill the gas tank with fuel with a low octane number. The best option for a VAZ-2110 with an injector is AI-95, or in extreme cases AI-92.
Ignition. It's possible that your car's ignition is simply faulty, making it difficult to start. In this case, the culprit will be early or late ignition due to vibration. Over time, the distributor cap on the car turns slightly, causing the spark to flow unevenly. This leads to incomplete combustion of fuel in the cylinders, and the engine begins to stall. You can get rid of this problem by rotating the distributor cap counterclockwise.

Symptoms

The approximate time that is considered long and for which the engine starts is 5 or 8 seconds. In this case, twitching is definitely observed in the first seconds of operation of the internal combustion engine. At times it seems that the engine is operating on only two cylinders, and not four.

If you press the accelerator before starting, the start will be faster. But at the same time, fuel consumption and engine warm-up time will increase until the speed drops to normal. Another inseparable companion of such a situation is black exhaust.

Obviously, black smoke from the muffler directly indicates that the fuel is not completely consumed and remains in the cylinders.

Common breakdowns

Sometimes there is a situation when the starter turns, the click is clearly audible, but at the same time the spark plugs flood, and replacing them with new ones leads to repeated flooding. Regular cleaning of the spark plugs will help. If you encounter such a problem, then in order to start the car, you need to check the injectors; perhaps they are clogged, and this was the main reason for the spark plugs to flood.

Also, the fuel pump may not create pressure acceptable for vehicle operation. Additionally, it is necessary to check the mass air flow sensor. The sensor may be feeding incorrect information, causing more fuel to enter the engine. Repairing or replacing the sensor will help fix the problem.

The car starts on the second try. Most likely, the throttle valve or DHW is clogged. To eliminate the problem, you need to flush the devices.

It is impossible to start the car in winter, although the starter turns normally. When faced with this situation, it is necessary to unscrew the spark plugs and crank the starter to free the engine from fuel. Heat a new set of spark plugs, and while they are warm, screw them into the engine block. Start the engine.

The engine does not start well, and a light with an exclamation mark appears on the dashboard, after which it stalls. A lamp with this designation indicates that voltage is still supplied to the starter, although the engine has started. Most likely, the engine did not decouple and the starter broke down. To eliminate the problem, you need to replace the starter.

Diagnostics using ODB-2 scanner

Since there are quite a few causes of the malfunction, it is initially worth carrying out a comprehensive diagnosis of the car. The fastest way to do this is with an ODB2 scanner.

Scan Tool Pro Black Edition

A special feature of Scan Tool Pro is the diagnostics of not only the engine, but also other vehicle components (gearboxes, abs, air conditioning systems, transmissions, etc.). The scanner is compatible with all models of the domestic automobile industry since 1993 and is designed specifically for the CIS market; it produces error codes with their interpretation in Russian. The scanner also shows the operation of all sensors in real time (including the crankshaft position sensor and mass air flow sensor)

Poor quality fuel

A large number of additives has a bad effect on the engine:

The supplied fuel does not meet the requirements of the engine, and therefore is perceived poorly by it.
The filters are becoming clogged with foreign additives. The pump is unable to supply sufficient fuel.
Engine settings are lost. The supply of hot combustible mixture is insufficient.

Basic technical requirements for fuel characteristics

Fuel characteristics (gasoline)	Unit	Automotive regulations
environmental class 2	environmental class 3	environmental class 4
Lead concentration, no more	mg/dm³	10	5
Sulfur concentration, no more	mg/ct	500	150	50
Volume fraction of hydrocarbons, no more than:	percent
aromatic	not installed	42	35
olefinic	not installed	18	18
Volume fraction of benzene, no more	percent	5	1	1
Mass fraction of oxygen, no more	percent	not installed	2,7	2.7
Saturated vapor pressure taking into account climatic conditions:	kPa
in summer	45-80	45-80	45-80
in winter	50-100	50-100	50-100
Intake valve deposits	not installed	compliance with European gasolines for automobiles

Timing belt broke

VAZ 2110 does not start, the starter turns - perhaps the reason lies in a broken timing belt?

The engine gas distribution mechanism is driven by the crankshaft gear. Initially, chains were used for this purpose, and timing belts, which began to be widely used about twenty years ago, aroused mistrust among car owners.

The undoubted advantages of a belt drive over a chain drive are its simple design, low weight and low noise. However, it is not without its drawbacks, the main one of which is the relatively short resource of the timing belt.

Of course, a faulty, torn or misaligned timing belt also causes the VAZ 2110 to fail to start. By the way, on stock, non-deformed models of the 21120 engine, a torn timing belt also causes valve deformation and requires additional repairs. In this case, driving even after replacing the belt without restoring the valves is impossible.

New timing belt VAZ 2110

Check for the presence of a spark in the spark plugs visually by turning on the ignition and pressing the outer metal part of the spark plug against the unpainted metal body of the car or against structural elements. Do not forget that all electrical parts of the product are under high voltage, so it is better to carry out work with insulating gloves. If there is no spark on only one spark plug, be sure to check the others and draw the appropriate conclusions.

The consequences of a broken timing belt depend entirely on the design of the power unit. To imagine what will happen at this moment, you need to turn to the mechanics of the internal combustion engine.

In a running engine, the pistons continuously move from one dead center to another. During the intake stroke, the piston moves down and the intake valve opens; during the exhaust stroke, the exhaust valve opens and the piston moves up. At the moment when the piston is at top dead center, all valves must be closed. If the timing belt breaks, the camshaft stops rotating and the valves stop in one position. At the same time, the crankshaft continues to rotate by inertia, and the pistons rush towards the open valves.

Timing belt VAZ 2110 OPEN

In some engines, for example, the 8-valve VAZ-2111, the pistons have special recesses to avoid contact with the valves in the event of a break. In this case, there will be no consequences, except that the car will not be able to get to the garage or workshop under its own power.