The appearance of knocks and clicks when turning the steering wheel is a fairly common problem, and it can happen to both a well-worn car and a brand new one recently received at the dealership.
However, you can identify the source of the sound yourself, without resorting to the services of a service station, which will allow you to save a little, and if you also have certain repair skills, then eliminating the malfunction may cost only the cost of spare parts, and even then not always.
But first things first.
If you hear a noticeable knocking noise when you move the steering wheel left to right: diagnosis
Probable Causes
If an audible knocking sound in the front suspension when turning the steering wheel indicates wear in its constituent parts, then an extraneous clicking sound when the steering wheel rocks requires inspection of other structural elements. As a rule, the problem lies in the vehicle control system.
Statistics show that there is something to knock in the “steering wheel”. Any pairing may come under suspicion:
- Gap in the fit between the steering tip and the strut.
- Excessive play in the steering rack.
- There is a problem with the steering shaft driveshaft.
- Free movement of the steering wheel on the shaft.
- Gap in steering rod joints.
These parts are present in the design of any car. Knowing the location of all the landings, it remains to identify the defective pair.
For your information. Some old foreign cars have a folding steering column assembly, which breaks under the influence of a critical load that occurs during an accident. He can knock too.
How to identify knocking: expert methods
The classic approach to identifying a faulty unit will be explained in any garage. Its essence is trivial: just ask the assistant to shake the steering wheel and at this time put his hand on the mentioned connections.
Steering rack
However, in some situations this technology loses its relevance. In particular, it will not be possible to identify a defect in the mechanism using this method. To identify a problem in the gear-rack engagement, it is necessary to carry out the following experiment:
- If there is power steering (hydraulic booster): a knocking sound appears when the steering wheel is rotated on a car with the engine turned off, but when the engine is running, there is no knocking at the place.
- There is no power steering: drive along a road section with a changeable direction - when you swing the steering wheel left to right, a knock is heard, but when turning, the rack does not knock due to the small wear of the working surfaces of the gearing in the extreme positions.
For your information. It is not recommended to tighten a worn rack. One of the owners of Hyundai Solaris performed this procedure and after 10,000-12,000 km the steering wheel began to bite. An autopsy showed that the mechanism was beyond repair.
Emergency system
It is also possible to determine experimentally whether the steering column folding assembly is the cause of the knocking. It is enough to swing the “steering wheel” to the sides, while simultaneously pressing it to the bottom. The sound disappeared - the problem is in the emergency system.
Checking all noises
To avoid problems in the future, it is necessary to monitor the condition of the machine from time to time. Every 2-3 months you need to inspect the car on a lift. Metal structures and threaded connections require great attention. Along with them, it is worth inspecting the wheels with fastening joints. Most often, crackling and clicking noises occur in cars made by domestic manufacturers. After visual diagnostics, it is worth tightening the nuts and bolts, as well as bringing loose structures to their original condition. Only in this case the car will not make strange sounds, but, on the contrary, will serve faithfully for a single year.
As for preventive measures, you should not neglect them. First of all, the driver must regularly lubricate the mechanisms, not forgetting to check the anthers and protective elements. There is also no need to practice an aggressive riding style. It negatively affects the condition of the chassis. Smooth braking and avoiding potholes whenever possible are the best methods of prevention. In addition to this, it is worth stopping near the curb. When entering a parking space, the driver should not hit it. The wheels receive a strong blow, and all the force is directed to the steering elements.
What causes a knocking sound in the front suspension of a car when turning the steering wheel while driving?
The chassis and steering mechanism are tightly coupled and perform a single function. One rack command is not enough to turn the wheels in one direction. The racks, which are connected by tips and rods to the rack and pinion assembly, must not only absorb shock, but also rotate around their own axis. This became possible with the introduction of movable mounts.
What's causing the knocking?
When there is a knocking sound when turning the steering wheel while driving, but no extraneous sounds are observed in place, we can firmly state that there are problems with the suspension. Its design includes a sufficient number of connections that use bearings. Any support gradually fails, as evidenced by increased play.
- Strut support bearing.
- Spherical bearing.
- Wheel bearing.
How to identify tapping
You can calculate the knock in the front suspension of a car when turning the steering wheel experimentally. The work is carried out both on site and while moving - it all depends on the location of the defective area:
- The support bearing is checked by rocking the body to the sides: the hand lying on the “support” holder should not feel any play. The second diagnostic method: grab the front wheel spring and ask an assistant to rock the steering wheel to the sides - there should be no knocking.
- A metallic clatter will be heard in the worn out “ball” when bent with a pry bar.
- The hub support makes a dull knock when turning the steering wheel at small angles at a speed of 50-60 km/h.
Definition of tapping
To identify the sound heard when turning, it is necessary to conduct an experiment. Its main feature is that you need to check the car in driving and standing mode. This method will help identify the weak point.
First you need to rock the body in both directions. This will help you see if the support bearing is faulty. When there is a malfunction, the ball elements emit a strange sound of steel. If the breakdown is hidden in the hub support, the driver will hear a crackling and knocking sound. The sounds will be heard when the steering wheel is rotated and turned all the way.
Worn silent blocks are another reason that will make the driver think about repairs. This category of problems also includes wear of nut fasteners. The driver must be able to distinguish between natural noise and vibrations associated with faults.
Quick Guide
The main reason for tapping is the formation of a gap in the joints. In the steering system, there may be knocking on the tips, ball joints of the rods, the rack, the “cardan” in the column, the steering wheel on the shaft, or the auto-folding system in case of an accident. The metallic sound is distinct and can be heard in place when rocking the steering wheel.
It is quite possible to mistake problems in the suspension for problems in the steering, since the initial stages of wear of bearings and supports only make themselves felt when cornering at speed. In the suspension part, the cause of the knock should be sought in the wheel bearings, ball joints and “supports”.
In this article we will figure out why a knocking sound is heard when turning the steering wheel in place or while the car is moving. Let's find out the main causes and methods for eliminating them.
Author: Raul_ HF and wheel alignment mechanic; experience - 3 years. Service/repair consultant at Toyota DC; experience - 4 years.
The steering rack is a simple design and fairly reliable unit, which is why today it is used on the vast majority of cars. The wheels turn by moving the rod, which moves the steering rods connected through ball joints to the wheel hubs. The rod has teeth that mesh with the worm gear. The actuator worm mechanism receives rotation from the steering wheel through a system of shafts and cardan joints. Since the entire steering mechanism is subjected to significant stress, parts and components naturally wear out over time. As a result, free play or play is formed in the connections, which can usually manifest itself in the form of knocking noises when driving over uneven surfaces or when turning the steering wheel.
Analysis of typical complaints
The advice given at the beginning, to understand when the tapping occurs, makes it somewhat easier to find the cause. But this recommendation is effective only with a comprehensive diagnosis. For example, the mere fact of clanking in the pits is not enough; you need to listen to what is happening when the wheels are turned and whether there are any sounds in place.
If the test is done, go through common complaints.
- The noise only appears when the steering wheel is turned. If nothing is transmitted to the steering wheel, then see “ball” in more detail. Perhaps it is not tightly attached to the steering knuckle or lever. For example, bolts are often forgotten to be tightened during wheel alignment.
- The knock comes from the steering wheel. This is either a rack or a cardan on the shaft. If this only occurs on washboards and other irregularities, inspect the control shaft telescopic connection. Pay attention to the rack and pinion mechanism - the nuts securing it to the subframe or body may be loose.
- The rattle is only on the straight line, quiet in turns. Rack, cardan, ball joints.
Knocking noise when turning the steering wheel
Thanks to hydraulic or electric power steering, which acts directly on the rod when turning the steering wheel, the main load on transmitting rotation is removed from the steering drive. This significantly extends its service life, however, the component components are also subject to wear and tear over time. A knocking sound when the steering wheel rotates in place is in most cases associated with wear of the crosspieces or splined joints of the steering rack drive shaft.
The crosspieces contain roller bearings. Exhausted rollers cause “biting” of the universal joint. This manifests itself in the form of knocking noises when the steering wheel is turned without the car moving.
The following possible causes are not related to the steering. When turning the steering wheel to the left or right, the CV joint may bite and make a knock if the joint is faulty. For example, damaged by corrosion due to dirt and moisture after driving with a torn boot, or as a result of wear and tear. When you start driving with the wheels turned, knocking noises from the rotation of a faulty drive under load are especially obvious.
Knocks when turning the steering wheel can be caused by a violation of the integrity of the strut spring. For example, a broken coil when turning a wheel touches body elements.
Constant-velocity joint
With the wheels turned completely to one side, the CV joint will most often creak (it may even give impacts to the steering wheel). When turning the car to the left, the right outer CV joint will crunch/knock, and when turning to the right, the left one will, accordingly. Inner CV joints usually creak when driving at high speed on uneven roads, so they have nothing to do with knocking when turning. So if you hear a knocking sound when turning or sharply accelerating your car, the outer joint most likely needs to be replaced. However, first you can remove it and inspect it - if there is no wear or it is small, then CV joint lubrication will help.
Knocks when turning the steering wheel while driving
When a wheel hits a sharp bump, the joint, which has lost its rigidity, produces a characteristic knock due to the gap. The problem is resolved by searching for the faulty part, replacing it or repairing it. Knocks when turning the steering wheel while driving on uneven surfaces may indicate probable wear of the following components and elements:
- steering rack mechanism
- steering rods
- steering tips
- rack housing fastenings
- ball joints
- shock absorbers
- anti-roll bar bushings
Tie rods and tie rods
If the tips or the tie rods themselves begin to knock, as a rule, they have to be changed. As for the diagnosis of these elements, experienced drivers carry it out independently. To do this, you need to wobble the tip and the rod itself, but you need to know how, what, and in what direction to wobble. If the steering tips or steering rods are knocking, then in the first case, replacement is required, in the second, options are possible, for example, replacing the steering rod silent blocks. But it is very likely that the thrust will still have to be changed.
With significant wear, the ball joint of the wheel can also generate extraneous sounds when turning the steering wheel. The most important element for long service life of ball joints, as well as CV joints and steering ends, is regular inspection and replacement, if necessary, of their boots. It is the anthers that protect these components from dirt, water, lubricant leakage and other negative phenomena. And if you change the boots on time, both ball and CV joints, and actually the steering ends, last quite a long time.
Knock in the steering wheel on uneven surfaces when driving straight ahead
In cases where knocking is heard on the steering wheel when driving over uneven surfaces, this may indicate wear on the bearings of the steering column shaft located in the cabin. This malfunction causes radial play of the shaft, accompanied by knocking. Axial play of the shaft is also possible due to wear of the locking or sealing rings. In some cases, manufacturers provide the supply of spare parts for inexpensive repair of the dispenser. During the overhaul, related parts, fastening and sealing elements are also replaced, which may still be in working order, but may soon fail and require repeated repair of the unit. On a number of models where disassembly and restoration are not provided, the steering column is replaced as an assembly.
Although knocking noises can clearly appear only when turning, not in all cases this is due to wear of the steering elements. If you hear a knock when turning the steering wheel, you should also carefully check the entire front suspension of the car, the tightness of the protection fasteners, subframe bolts and other underbody elements. Only a detailed comprehensive inspection will help identify the source of the problem, which is not always possible to do just by the nature of the knock.
Car owners often encounter a problem: when turning in one or both directions, an unpleasant and disturbing sound is clearly heard. There may be several reasons. To independently find and eliminate the malfunction indicated by a knocking sound when turning the steering wheel, you need consistent diagnostics of the chassis.
Almost every driver has encountered a knocking sound when turning the steering wheel.
Steering rack
If your steering rack starts knocking, this is a very unpleasant surprise. Because repairing a rack is not a cheap pleasure, and most importantly, it is quite complicated. To prevent this from happening, you need to check the condition of the oil seals from time to time, which, when they begin to leak, the working fluid leaves the rack and the wear of its parts, in particular the guide bushings and gears, occurs very quickly. Therefore, it is simply necessary to monitor the integrity of the steering rack oil seals.
And it happens that the cause of knocking when turning the steering wheel, both in place and while moving, is wear on the steering column cardan. In this case, this part simply needs to be replaced.
Preparing for diagnosis
You need to start by trying to determine the location and nature of the sound. A clear and loud knock in the steering wheel is generated by the impacts of metal on metal, while a muffled knock is generated by metal on plastic. Check the tire pressure: their difference can also cause noise.
Before inspection, you need to clean the front suspension, the easiest way is with a powerful jet of water. After it dries, you can put the car on a pit or viewing platform. There you need to wipe the parts dry with a rag and, if necessary, clean off dried dirt or rust with a brush. Among other things, this way you will save yourself from sand falling from above.
When preparing to diagnose the suspension, you should pay attention to the tightening of the threads, rubber cushions and boots.
Non-standard cases
It may not be the suspension or steering parts that are knocking. Shocks and body pecks lead to the movement of units. If they “sit” loosely and there is metal-to-metal contact, clinking cannot be avoided.
- Single dull knock when starting off. See rubber-metal engine or gearbox mounts, transmission driveshaft. For example, when starting, the motor may tilt and hit the spar.
- Rattling on small bumps and in turns. Listen to see if there is a knocking sound in the steering wheel when braking; if there is, the brake caliper guides are worn out.
- Intermittent impact sound, more common when turning at low speeds. Malfunction in the differential of a front-wheel drive vehicle.
Tighten the key bolts and nuts more often, refuel only at gas stations with high-quality gasoline, and remember: a worn CV joint does not knock, but crunches, and does this with the wheels turned out.
Identifying possible causes of knocking
Turning the steering wheel of front-wheel drive cars involves many joints, levers and rubber seals. A knocking sound in the steering wheel when turning may indicate wear of components or parts.
First of all, the assistant can turn the steering wheel, and you can listen to sounds under the car. Sometimes it is difficult to determine a breakdown by hearing, so you can touch various parts with your hand.
Wheel arch protection
One of the common causes of knocking is loosening of the wheel arch protection. In this case, it first turns under the action of the wheel, then returns to its original position, which gives rise to a characteristic “plastic” sound. Reliable fixation of the plastic protection takes a few minutes.
Step-by-step order of preparatory work
If you are not the lucky owner of a garage with a pit or a lift, work on tightening the steering rack can be done on the ground, but before doing this you need to prepare the work area.
- First of all, remove the battery, unscrew the terminals and fasteners of the batteries one by one (if available - approx.).
Remove the battery clamps carefully - We remove the battery and put it aside.
- Next, remove the mat under which there are 4 more bolts securing the battery stand.
By unscrewing these 4 bolts around the perimeter, the pillow can be easily removed - Then we move it forward a little so that it is detached from the air filter mounting pad.
- When nothing interferes with it, we move it in the opposite direction as much as is convenient for working with the steering rack.
Front suspension repair
The cost of the parts themselves when eliminating the described reasons is most often small, but the price of replacing them in car services sometimes causes bewilderment. In such cases, it is better to repair the suspension yourself. This requires special devices and tools.
To remove the tips and ball joints of the steering wheel, pullers are needed that, during dismantling, preserve the integrity of these parts.
Silent blocks are replaced using a long threaded rod or bolt with a corresponding nut and a set of bushings and washers. The bushings should rest on the lever cage, and the washer should match the diameter of the rubber seal. Tightening the nut squeezes the silent blocks out of the lever, and then presses a new one in its place.
Dismantling the shock absorber strut is done with two ties that compress the spring. This makes it possible to unscrew the mounting bolts, remove the support bearing and remove the shock absorber and spring. The new spring is also completely compressed by the ties, then the entire assembly is assembled.
A knock when turning the steering wheel should not make the driver nervous. However, as soon as you have time, you should immediately start troubleshooting the problem. Today on the Internet you can find videos from professional craftsmen and amateurs about repairing suspensions of different car models and for various malfunctions. It is better to spend time studying their experience and then repair everything efficiently and quickly.
Let's sum it up
It is worth using various methods to test equipment before replacing. Otherwise, because of one knock, you can change half of the suspension without eliminating the cause of the problem. Therefore, you should always approach diagnostics from different angles and use the services of testing suspension parts at several service stations. You can change parts only if you are sure that certain mechanisms are faulty. You should approach the issue of repair with full understanding so as not to spend too much money on this process. Many novice drivers simply buy every part that they are guilty of, and as a result, repairs are very expensive.
There are certain difficulties in diagnosing the chassis of a modern car. It is not at all clear which element may be causing the knocking. There are a number of possible options, they are all interconnected, and even analysis does not answer the question. Therefore, it is very difficult to use the full picture of the breakdown to purchase the spare parts necessary for repair. Sometimes you have to change parts just at random, not getting the result on the first try. There are various repair options available, but to do so you need to pinpoint the problem. How do you usually diagnose and repair the chassis of your car?
