How to disable EUR on Kalina

Good day! In general, my rack rattled. I start tightening the nut, there is a little less noise, but the EUR no longer returns to zero after turning. I think it's a disc spring. I removed and disassembled the rack, changed the bushings, installed an ss20 plate, and lubricated everything generously. After installing the rack in place, I adjusted the nut so that the rack did not rattle. Started up and the steering wheel turns easily. Joyfully, I leave the garage and realize that while driving I have to manually return the steering wheel to zero. I went out onto the highway, and in order to steer, you need to overcome a certain force (you can feel the EUR torsion bar springing). I loosened it a little, no result. I weakened it even more, the roar was already wild, but there was a very bad feedback from the road. On the highway, more or less. The torsion bar is no longer so springy, but it still sucks. I suspect that the Makhachkala EUR is to blame. I tried pulling the fuse. THIS IS HARD... The steering wheel is made of oak and does not return to zero. It gets worse. I’m thinking of remaking the EUR for conventional mechanics: 1) Either break the worm and weld the torsion bar (budget) 2) or buy an assembled shaft and a mounting plate from a regular viburnum (expensive for me). If I choose the first option, will it be easier to turn the steering wheel than just pulling the fuse? Will there be a difference in steering effort between the first and second options? Maybe someone has a shaft from an ordinary viburnum lying around? or who will give it for inexpensively? I'm in Voronezh)

The process of adjusting the sensitivity of the EUR Makhachkala is described here. He turns the tuning resistor there. What do you think about this?

Share your thoughts and experiences! I will be grateful!

Electric power steering for modern cars has already become an integral part of them. On the Russian market it was first installed on the Lada Kalina ( VAZ 1118 ). The electric booster added both a lot of positive emotions and a lot of negative ones. Failure of this unit occurs quite often on the first samples. Our guest today was no exception – a car from the Lada “Kalina” family (Fig. 1).

The situation is quite typical: the client complains that sometimes the electric power steering turns off and the electric power steering warning light comes on, but after driving along some hole or rails, the electromechanical power steering (EMUR or EPS) resumes its operation.

This situation is very annoying, because not only the owner uses the car, but also his wife. It is much more problematic for a woman to turn the steering wheel without electric power assistance.

We start the car, and the electric power steering fault light actually lights up and it becomes quite difficult to turn the steering wheel. It is imperative to deal with this problem.

We connect the diagnostic scanner and connect to the EMUR control unit.

On the monitor screen we see the following error: C1044 – incorrect sequence of the rotor position sensor. What is a rotor position sensor and where is it located?

Let's take a break from our malfunction for a moment and touch on a little theory. Let's understand the EMUR device and what main parts it consists of. Let's consider all its parts separately.

Design EMUR Kalina 11186-3450008-00

Steering shaft
Electric motor
Electronic control unit
Torque sensor
Rotor position sensor

We remove the EMUR. On the nameplate (Fig. 7) there is article number 11186-3450008-00 manufactured by Aviaagregat, Makhachkala.

Remove the steering wheel, steering column switches and ignition switch. To get to the torque sensor , you must first remove the electric motor. We unscrew the bracket with 4 bolts, the cardan shaft, the lock nut and the 3 bolts securing the electric motor.

This is what we got (Fig. 12)

Next we pull out the shaft.

We take out the torque sensor (Fig. 17), having previously unsoldered the wires from the board (Fig. 16).

Design of an inductive torque sensor.

The inductive sensor consists of two concentric cylinders with holes (perforation slots), which are fixed to the shaft and rotate with it. And two concentric coils with primary and secondary windings, fixedly inserted into the EMUR housing. We will not go into various terminology, but let’s put it simply: an alternating current with a frequency of 20 kHz is supplied to the primary winding, and if we apply force to the shaft (that is, we begin to rotate the steering wheel), then a voltage “+” or “-” appears on the secondary winding depending on the direction of rotation, and the magnitude of this voltage is directly proportional to the applied torque (force). Thus, the electronic control unit (ECU) determines with what force you rotate the steering wheel in one direction or another.

So, we’ve dealt with the torque sensor, let’s move on to the next one, namely the rotor position sensor (Fig. 20), which is located on the back cover of the electric motor.

The EMUR of the Lada "Kalina" uses a 3-phase switched inductor (brushless) motor. In order for it to start rotating in one direction or another, the electronics must understand what position the rotor is currently in and, after determining the position, apply voltage to certain stator windings at the right moments. To determine the position, a rotor position sensor (RPS) is used.

Causes of EUR failure

Why does the electric power steering on the Lada Kalina not work, turns off and refuses to work, what are the signs of a steering wheel with power steering knocking, jamming, biting or squeaking? To repair the system yourself, you need to know how diagnostics are carried out and what causes precede the breakdown. Most often, the failure of the amplifier is caused by a breakdown of the unit itself and the amplifier fails. Problems of this type are resolved by thoroughly checking the system to identify the exact problem.

As practice shows, often the inoperability of the electric amplifier (failure) is associated with a breakdown of the speed controller.

the steering wheel is jammed,
jams
becomes tight
and others

Because the speed controller sensor ensures activation and deactivation of the electric power steering under different driving modes. The amplifier on Kalina works if the car is moving at low speed. When the speed begins to increase, the booster automatically turns off, allowing for safer machine control when driving at high speeds.

So, briefly about the reasons for the inoperability of the EUR:

The speed controller has failed or the control unit does not receive or disappears a signal from it. In this case, the reason may lie in either a breakdown of the sensor, damaged wiring, or poor contact of the controller with the on-board network.
The voltage in the vehicle's electrical network has decreased. The reasons can be different, ranging from a dead battery and an inoperative generator to the use of inappropriate electrical equipment in the car.
The permissible crankshaft speed has been exceeded.
Incorrect operation or failure of the control module. Depending on the cause, the control unit may need to be repaired; more detailed diagnostics need to be done.

ESD error on the dashboard

The on-board computer will signal a malfunction of the EUR

Owners of a Kalina car with installed electric power steering enjoy pleasant and convenient control, but run the risk of encountering a problem - the “European Power Steering Error” light comes on. The reason for this may be either a complete failure of the system or its incorrect operation. It is worth noting that the sensor glows yellow, not red. This means that you can operate the car without a working Lada Kalina electric power steering, taking certain precautions.

You will have to apply more force to the steering wheel if you turn off the EMUR completely. This can be done quite simply by removing the fuse that supplies power to the control unit. If the power steering does not work or some strange phenomena are observed in its behavior, it is better to remove the fuse and undergo a complete diagnostic of the vehicle systems, which will show the cause of the breakdown. Driving without electric power assistance can be challenging. Out of habit, the steering wheel seems too tight, but in reality it is the same as on the Kalina “standard” configuration.

There are two reasons for EMUR failure: a malfunction of the speed sensor or a breakdown in the control unit. The first problem can be solved very quickly; this can be done even in a garage. In the second case, you will have to remove the control unit and contact an experienced electrician to install a new one. If the warranty is valid, you must show the car to specialists at a car service center.

If you still want to remove and install the control unit yourself, all you need is a Phillips screwdriver. First, all plastic panels under the steering wheel are dismantled to facilitate access to the unit. And do not forget that the battery should be disconnected, this will avoid problems with the electrical wiring. The plastic cover, which is located at the bottom of the panel, is secured with three bolts. They need to be unscrewed and the cover removed.

A view of the control unit itself opens after removing the cover. All plugs must be disconnected from the EMUR control unit. The block itself is secured with two bolts. Unscrew them and carefully pull the box down so as not to damage anything. Remember that the block is still attached to the plate. The box should be slightly higher than the pedals. Only after this do you need to unscrew the three bolts that secure the control unit to the plate. Now all that remains is to screw the new control unit onto the plate and carefully install everything in the reverse order. Secure the box with two bolts, then connect all the plugs, after which you can begin assembling the facing panels.

Diagnostics

To check the amplifier in a car, you need to remove the plastic trim on the steering column; to do this, unscrew the bolts securing it from the bottom.

Then you will need to get to the 8-pin plug, its pinout is as follows:

The blue contact is connected to the ignition switch, this is 12 volt power;
the red-brown contact is the connection cable to the tachometer;
the gray contact goes to the car speed controller;
white and pink wire - amplifier control indicator;
black-yellow contact is a diagnostic line;
the next contact is empty, the wire is not connected to it;
brown contact is ground;
empty.

More accurate results will be obtained by checking the amplifier using a scanner. But since such equipment can usually only be found at service stations, you can try to check the operation of the system with a paper clip.

To check you need to do the following:

First the ignition is turned off.
Then, using a paper clip, you need to close contacts numbered 6 and 7 of this plug, while the plug itself does not need to be removed.
Next, the ignition must be turned on.
After completing these steps, the EUR failure indicator located in the dashboard will begin to blink; by the number of blinks, you can determine whether the system is broken (the author of the video is Gosha Vakhromeev).

one long signal and one short signal - the electric amplifier is working;
one long and two short - no engine speed signal;
one long and three short - the torque controller is out of order or there is no power supply;
one long and four short blinks—problems in the operation of the electric power steering motor;
one long and five short - the steering shaft position controller has failed;
one long and six short - the motor rotor position controller has failed;
one long and seven short - problems with the electrical network - the voltage is either too high or very low;
one long and eight short - the control module of the electric amplifier has failed;
one long and nine short - the speed controller is broken.

Repair of electric power steering Lada Kalina

The purpose of the electric power steering (EPS) is to reduce the torque on the steering wheel, which allows you to drive the car more comfortably. The electric power steering only works at certain moments when the steering column moves. The amplifier motor generates the required torque, which depends on the force on the steering wheel.

Torque forces on the steering wheel are measured using a special sensor and are subsequently transmitted to the amplifier control unit, which controls the operation of the amplifier motor. Structurally, the electric amplifier consists of one block, which simplifies its replacement and repair. On the other hand, foreign car manufacturers use it quite rarely, preferring hydraulic boosters.

Normally, the electric booster should operate at low and medium engine speeds; erroneous operation of the electric booster at high speed can result in the vehicle ending up on the side of the road or in a ditch, colliding with bump stops and highway barriers.

Dismantling and disassembling the electric amplifier

Before removing the amplifier, you need to remove all the steering column switches. Remove the steering rack cover and dismantle the devices, remembering to disconnect the connectors from the power supply.

How to remove the EUR with your own hands:

After removing the switches, you will need to dismantle the lower cross member of the dashboard. To do this, you need to press the fasteners that secure the connector with wires, and then disconnect the wiring from the control module. Once these steps are completed, you can disconnect the connector from the switches.
The system bracket is secured with nuts; you will need to unscrew them with a wrench.
After this, the steering rack will need to be carefully lowered down. To do this, you will need to find the bolt that secures the driveshaft to the booster shaft. This bolt must be unscrewed, but when unscrewing, you will need to fix the nut, this will prevent it from turning. When the bolt is removed, the fastening will need to be loosened, after which the intermediate shaft will be carefully removed. At this stage, we recommend marking the position of the shaft and gears; you can use a marker for this. This step is very important because doing it will prevent possible installation problems in the future. If the marks on the shafts do not match, this may cause problems with the amplifier. When dismantling, be careful not to damage the wiring, as this will also lead to the inoperability of the ESD.
When the unit is dismantled, it will need to be disassembled and the failed elements replaced. Further editing is done in reverse order (the author of the video is Murzik Bely).

Repair of electric power steering on Kalina. Signs of breakdown and repair

Electric power steering is a problem area for the Lada Kalina.
Surely this is due to the fact that the domestic auto industry has only recently become acquainted with the ESD. Avtovaz has not yet learned how to make good steering systems. Therefore, repairing electric power steering on Kalina remains a common practice. But it is best done by specialists. Amateurism will be inappropriate here - it can only aggravate the situation. The steering system is an important component, the serviceability of which determines the efficiency of driving and, of course, safety.

Repairing the electric power steering on Kalina is a responsible job that requires certain knowledge in the field of power steering. And since a minimum number of car enthusiasts have such knowledge, mostly when problems arise, drivers go to a service station, which is fundamentally correct.

How to tighten the electric power steering rack?

The appearance of a knocking sound in the operation of the electric power steering is associated with the need to tighten the steering rack.

How to do it right:

First you need to disconnect the battery; to do this, disconnect the terminals from it. Unscrew the battery mount; to do this, you need to unscrew two more nuts located at the edges. After this, the battery is removed and put aside.
Then you need to lift the plastic stand, there are four more screws under it, they can also be unscrewed.
Having done this, it is necessary to move this stand forward until the platform is disconnected from the air filter housing retainer pad. After this, the trim can be moved back, this will provide freer access to the rail itself.
At the next stage, you will need to crawl your hand under the rail. Directly below it, as shown in the photo, there is a rubberized cap; it will need to be removed, this will allow the key to access the adjusting nut.
To perform adjustment work, you will need a special wrench to tighten the rack; without it, the adjustment procedure will not be possible. Using this wrench, you need to crawl under the car rail to install the tool in the required hole.
When adjusting, be careful not to overtighten the rack. If its tightening is very strong, then when cornering the rack will bite, and this, in turn, may affect the safety of movement. The angle of adjustment is always different, it depends on how much the nut is loose, but usually when performing such work the nut is tightened by approximately 30 degrees. This should be enough to get everything right. After the adjustment is completed, it will be necessary to check that this task was performed correctly. That is, you will need to make sure that the steering wheel turns normally to any position all the way and there is no knocking. If the knock remains, then the adjustment continues.

Photo gallery “Adjusting the steering rack”

How to determine the malfunction?

Despite the fact that repairing the EUR requires contacting a car service, you can detect the first symptoms of a malfunction yourself

Viburnums on the front panel have a special yellow indicator, which, in the event of a breakdown of the electric amplifier, lights up and reports an error in the system. If it lights up, it means you have another reason to visit the nearest auto repair shop. But it’s immediately worth noting that the yellow indicator does not indicate a critical malfunction, but only signals the occurrence of a problem that allows you to drive the car, but without the participation of the ESD.

If the electric power steering has completely failed, it is better to stop immediately and pull out its fuses.

. In Kalina they are located on the left side of the steering wheel. Theoretically, in case of malfunctions, the EUR should turn off on its own. However, it doesn’t happen once at a time. Therefore, to be sure, it is still worth taking care of the fuses.

How can I lubricate and adjust the EUR?

How and with what to lubricate the amplifier?

Litol can be used as a lubricant; the procedure is performed as follows:

First you need to remove the plastic casing; to do this, unscrew the bolts that secure it. To unscrew, use a Phillips head screwdriver. It is also advisable to remove the lower cross member of the instrument panel, located under the steering wheel.
Next, unscrew the two bolts that secure the amplifier itself; for this you will need a 13mm wrench. After this, the column can be released down.
Unscrew another bolt, after which you can do the actual lubrication.
First, the steering wheel is turned to the left until it stops. The lubricant is poured into a 10 cc syringe, which needs to be sprayed into the hole formed. You need to throw out all 10 cubes.
Then the steering wheel is turned to the right until it stops - the syringe is again directed into the hole, all the lubricant is sprayed out.
After this, the steering wheel should be turned to the middle position and again sprinkled with lubricant into the hole.
Next, the steering wheel must be turned in different directions until it stops several times. The lubrication operation is repeated again.
Then all the components are assembled in reverse order.

1118_za_rulem-832.jpg

In some cases, the malfunction may be located in the EUR itself. When the ignition is turned on, a failure occurs in the EUR diagnostic system and therefore it turns off. If the car is under warranty, it is better to carry out repairs at an auto center or at a service center selected by the auto center, since the amplifier unit itself is quite expensive, its price is about 11 - 13 thousand rubles.

If a malfunction in the operation of the EUR is caused by a speed sensor coming out of order, then the repair will be much simpler; you can easily replace it yourself, if you have the time and desire.

The speed sensor transmits information about the speed of the vehicle to the EUR, on the basis of which the torque on the steering wheel is calculated. If the car is moving at low speeds, in this case the force on the steering wheel will be maximum, and with increasing speed the force will decrease.

If the speed sensor goes out of order, then incorrect information is sent to the power steering control unit and therefore the electric booster turns off and a malfunction indication on the car panel turns on.

vendor code

Standard Electric power steering VAZ 1118 (Kalina), Granta, Datsun On-Do (Mi-Do), Priora 11186-3450008-02, 1117-3450008-02

Manufacturer: Autoelectronics, Kaluga, Russia

Price 20,500 rubles

Possible malfunctions and their causes

The main problem that causes damage to the electric power steering is a malfunction of the speed sensor.

The EUR installed on Kalina does not work with a constant force applied to the steering rack. The amplifier begins to operate at full strength only when the car is moving at low speed or is at rest. When accelerating, the power steering forces on the steering rack decrease. That is, the lower the speed, the more the power steering starts to work.

The naturally described malfunction can only be detected when the car is standing still or moving at low speed

This failure can only be corrected by completely replacing the speed sensor. Moreover, here it is not necessary to go to the service. You can replace everything yourself.

The second malfunction may be hidden in the EUR itself. Basically, it consists of self-disabling the electric power steering due to the fact that it has not passed self-test. That is, the device turns off automatically so as not to interfere with the driver when driving the car.

This kind of malfunction guarantees a trip to the service station and will require you to spend a lot of money.