How to easily unscrew the crankshaft pulley - simple instructions

Every second car enthusiast who tries to repair his favorite four-wheeled friend with his own hands has encountered the problem of how to remove the crankshaft pulley. After reading the instructions in the maintenance and repair manual, at first glance, the procedure does not seem complicated, however, when you first try to unscrew the ill-fated bolt, it turns out that this is not so easy. It is completely unclear how to fix the crankshaft so that it does not rotate. Another problem is where is the best way to get to the treasured bolt. Removing the crankshaft pulley causes a lot of trouble because it is too tight. There is a high probability of damaging many parts of the engine compartment or the paintwork of the body.

The problem is that the crankshaft pulley bolt (or nut, depending on the model) is tightened with great force during installation. This is done so that it does not unwind spontaneously, since if unscrewed, serious damage and expensive repairs cannot be avoided. The degree of tightening gradually increases as the engine operates and is aggravated by sticking, coking, and corrosion.

In reality, the entire dismantling process can take 10-15 minutes, but there are some techniques you need to know and use. Different motor models use either a bolt or a nut to secure the pulley. Each option should be considered.

How to unscrew the crankshaft pulley nut?

The nut at the end of the crankshaft holding the pulley is a sign of the engine of a classic rear-wheel drive car like VAZ from model 2101 to 2107, Niva and the like. Such a nut is also called a “ratchet”, since it can have ledges for a “crooked starter”.

It is better to do the work above the inspection hole. The crankshaft should be secured by placing the gearbox in 4th gear and applying the parking brake. You should stock up on the following tools in advance:

• socket or socket wrench 36 (or 38);
• lever extension in the form of a piece of pipe.

While under the car, try to unscrew the nut with a wrench with a sufficiently long lever. If the attempt is unsuccessful, put the gearbox in neutral and proceed as follows:

• the candlesticks are removed;
• while in the pit, install the key and extension so that the end rests on the floor or spar as the shaft rotates;
• turning the key in the ignition switch gives a short-term impulse.

As a rule, on the first or second attempt the nut comes off and is then unscrewed with a regular wrench. Don't forget to loosen and remove the alternator belt.

How to unscrew the crankshaft pulley bolt?

The bolt holding the pulley predominates in engines in front-wheel drive cars, when the block is located perpendicular to the axis of the car. In this case, you will have to tinker more, since it is more difficult to get to the bolt. To work you should prepare:

• jack;
• “tragus” (stump);
• a socket to the size of the bolt with an extension and lever;
• set of automotive tools.

In search of an answer to the question of how to remove the crankshaft pulley, many car enthusiasts begin to look for an opportunity to do this without prior preparation. By definition, such attempts cannot be successful.

In order to correctly remove the pulley, you must perform the following manipulations::

• the right front part of the car is lifted, the wheel is removed;
• the car is installed on a “tragus”;
• From the top side of the hood, all parts that impede access are removed: the air filter and the engine mudguard;
• the alternator belt is removed;
• to fix the crankshaft, the plug on the clutch block is opened and a pry bar is inserted into the resulting window to jam the flywheel teeth;
• under the wheel arch, a head with an extension and a lever is put on the pulley bolt;
• the bolt is unscrewed counterclockwise.

In the vast majority of cases, the bolt can be unscrewed. If it does not give in, then you can add the length of the lever. If this does not help, then you should use the help of the starter as described for the pulley nut in the “classic”.

We remove the pulley using folk automotive experience

Any threaded connection, even if tightly tightened. can be untwisted with less effort if you use some folk-automotive tricks. The problem of how to unscrew the crankshaft pulley ceases to be such if you moisten the bolt head or nut in advance with special WD oil, vinegar or brake fluid. Sometimes lightly tapping the edges of the nut helps.

Unscrewing a bolt or nut does not always solve the problem, since the pulley is held quite firmly on the shaft. You can remove the pulley using a regular pry bar, carefully prying it off from different sides. It is important that the force application point is as close to the shaft as possible. For hopeless cases, it is necessary to use a crankshaft pulley puller. This is a special device, which is a pin with a nut on which 2-3 grips are attached. The ends of the grippers are secured to the edges of the pulley, and the end of the pin rests against the center of the shaft. By twisting it clockwise, you can gradually pull the pulley off the shaft.

You should not be sure that in all cars, without exception, the crankshaft rotates clockwise.

For example, in some Honda cars the crankshaft rotates counterclockwise. It follows from this that the thread on the pulley nut (bolt) will be left-handed.

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How to unscrew a bolt?

• As a rule, the pulley is attached to the crankshaft with a bolt only on front-wheel drive vehicles. To unscrew the bolt holding the pulley on the crankshaft, you will have to work hard, because getting to the bolt is not easy. Before you begin, you need to prepare the necessary tools: a jack, a head to match the size of the bolt and a lever with an extension, a tool kit for a motorist and a “tragus” (you can use a tree stump as a tragus). The removal phase looks something like this:
• We install a jack on the right side of the car in the area of ​​the front wheel. Jack up the car and remove the wheel;
• Under the car, near the jack, we slip a trestle or stump (whatever is at hand). This will ensure the reliability and safety of bolt removal;
• During the work it will become clear that the bolt cannot be reached. We open the hood of the car and remove all parts that prevent full access. The air filter, the protective brushes of the car engine and the generator belt are usually removed;
• To unscrew the bolt you need to fix the crankshaft. To do this, you need to lock the flywheel teeth. Open the plug on the clutch block and insert a pry bar or screwdriver into the resulting hole. It is not very convenient to carry out actions to hold the flywheel lock and at the same time unscrew the bolt alone. You can ask someone for help;
• We take a head selected to the size of the bolt, with an extension and an additional lever, push it under the wheel arch and put it on the bolt;
• Turn the lever counterclockwise.

By the way, not on all cars the crankshaft moves in the direction of the clock hand. In some Honda models it has the opposite direction, which means that the bolt must be unscrewed to the right.

In most cases, the bolt gives in immediately, but if it is still in place, then you can use a slightly longer lever, and then it will definitely work.

Tuning on carburetor modifications of the VAZ 2107

All old textbooks on servicing classic Zhiguli models describe a method for setting the moment of spark formation using a light bulb, although experienced motorists can easily do without it. You will understand why this happens as you read this material, but for beginners it will be useful to familiarize yourself with the old proven technique.

To correctly set the ignition of the “seven”, you need to ensure that the following conditions are met simultaneously:

• the notch on the crankshaft pulley is opposite the long mark on the timing cover;
• in this case, the round mark marked on the camshaft chain drive gear coincides with the boss on its body;
• the piston of the 4th cylinder has completed the compression stroke and is at top dead center;
• the contacts inside the distributor are open;
• The movable contact of the slider faces the fixed contact on the distributor cover, where the wire from the spark plug of the 4th cylinder is connected.

Note. On non-contact systems, at this moment the Hall sensor sends a signal to the switch to break the low voltage electrical circuit, which leads to the appearance of a high voltage pulse on the wire leading to the spark plug of the 4th cylinder.

The light bulb is used to control the ignition timing, for which it must be connected with one wire to the “K” contact of the high-voltage coil, and with the second to the vehicle ground. You should know that at the same moment the piston of the first cylinder is also in the TDC position, only there the air-fuel mixture is not compressed, but exhaust gases are released after its combustion. This is why ignorant car enthusiasts often confuse the first cylinder with the fourth when installing the ignition.

When the above actions occur simultaneously, a spark discharge occurs on the electrodes of the spark plug of the 4th cylinder, as evidenced by the flash of the connected light bulb. To achieve these conditions and set the ignition correctly, follow the instructions:

1. Turn the crankshaft with a 36 mm wrench, aligning the notch on the pulley with the long notch on the timing cover.
2. If at this moment the engine valve cover is removed, then it is better to navigate by the mark on the camshaft gear, placing it opposite the housing boss.
3. Take the ignition distributor, remove the cover and turn its shaft to place the slider opposite the wire leading to cylinder No. 4 (there are cylinder number markings on the cover). Insert the distributor into the engine hole, holding the slider and housing in this position, and then secure it with a 13 mm wrench nut.
4. Connect the light bulb wires and turn on the ignition by turning the key. Loosen the nut securing the distributor and slowly turn it by the housing until the lamp flashes, indicating the moment of sparking. Reattach the distributor.
5. Turn off the ignition and make sure that the contacts inside the distributor are currently open. Take a 0.35 mm feeler gauge and check the gap between them, if necessary, adjust it by loosening the fastening screws with a screwdriver.

Note. The instructions imply that before starting work the distributor was removed from the engine without aligning the marks.

The ignition is considered to be set correctly if, after installing the distributor cap and connecting the wires, you manage to start the engine, and then you need to adjust the timing. The non-contact system is installed in the same way, with the exception of checking the gap in the contact group due to its absence.

How to unscrew the crankshaft pulley

Depending on the design of the crankshaft, the pulley is attached to it either with a nut or a bolt. On rear-wheel drive vehicles, the pulley is usually secured with a nut.

The engines of some rear-wheel drive cars can be started with a special crank, for which special protrusions are made for engaging the crank. This handle is also called a “crooked wrench,” and the engagement for this wrench is called a ratchet.

The pulley fastening nut is installed with a size of 36 or 38 mm on a wrench. Use a socket wrench. The key is strengthened by welding a long handle or putting on a tube to increase the “shoulder”.

How to unscrew the pulley nut:

1. Place the car on a pit or overpass.
2. Apply the hand parking brake.
3. Turn on 4th gear at the gearbox, put chocks under the wheels.
4. Do not tap too hard on the edges of the nut.
5. Throw on a socket wrench, extend it with a pipe and remove the stuck nut.

If the pulley nut does not come off:

1. Move the gearbox handle to neutral.
2. Remove the spark plug wires from the spark plugs to prevent the engine from starting.
3. Place a socket wrench on the nut and extend it with a pipe. Place the wrench in such a way that the pipe rests against the ground or the machine spar on the right side to prevent the pulley from turning clockwise.
4. We make a couple of short sharp turns of the ignition key to turn on the starter. The starter will begin to rotate the flywheel, the flywheel will rotate the crankshaft, and the pulley will be secured with a key. In this case, the stuck nut usually “comes off” quickly.

The crankshaft pulley on front-wheel drive vehicles is generally secured with a bolt. To remove the crankshaft pulley of a front-wheel drive car, you must proceed in this order:

1. Raise the front right side of the car with a jack. Place a trestle, stump or a pair of wheels with rims.
2. Remove the wheel.
3. Dismantle and remove the air filter with housing.
4. Remove the protective cover.
5. Loosen the belt tensioner and remove the alternator belt.
6. To fix the crankshaft, you need to remove the plug in the clutch housing, then insert a pry bar into the hole and rest it between the flywheel teeth.
7. Now you need to put on the socket wrench, extend it with a pipe and sharply try to turn it counterclockwise. The main thing is to remove the stuck pulley bolt.

If it is not possible to remove the bolt from its place, then we use the method of unscrewing it with a starter. This method is shown above.

Helpful advice from locksmiths who have seen a lot: use solvent or WD-40, or a similar rust preventative. After spraying it on the thread (if the pulley is secured with a nut), you need to wait 15 minutes, then try to unscrew it. If it’s a bolt, then it’s not easy to apply this product to the threads, although if you spray it around the bolt, it’s possible that liquid will pass through the micro-cracks and decarbonize the joint.

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Unscrew the pulley nut

The nut that holds the pulley at the end of the crankshaft indicates that we are working with a classic version of the engine, namely a VAZ-type car. So, before starting work, you need to prepare the necessary tool, namely a socket or socket wrench for “36” or “38”, you also need to prepare a piece of pipe about 30 cm (later you will find out why). It is better to do the work above the inspection hole. If this is not possible, then it is better to use a jack and definitely a tree stump (better to be safe).

We set the gearbox lever to the fourth gear position and turn on the parking brake mode (handbrake). We try to unscrew the nut using a wrench with a long lever while being under the car. If the attempt fails, you need to use another option.

Set the gearbox lever to the neutral position and remove the spark plugs. We install the key so that it rests (in the case when the length of the key is not enough, a pipe is used) against the floor or the rear spar in the direction of movement of the crankshaft. When the requirements are met, it is necessary to turn the ignition key to give short-term pulses. Sometimes the nut fits so tightly that you can’t get it off the first time. Mostly it is released on the third or fourth try. Once the nut is stripped, it can be tightened with a wrench.

Possible faults

Part designed to last for 10 years.

List of possible problems:

a burst rubber layer, which causes noise when the engine is running (a sign is the characteristic hum and timing noise); spontaneous unscrewing by cut parts; worn grooves, which affect premature belt wear; when beating during an accident, part of the part may break off, which leads to further breakdowns (therefore, after an accident, it is important to check the technical serviceability of the AvtoVAZ);

When purchasing a functional disk separately, you must choose the original part, no matter how much it costs. This contributes to reliable and long-lasting operation of the vehicle. Even if a simple part is turned, the size may not match.

Dismantling and replacement

Regardless of the design, where the part is located, it is important to remove and install it in the same order. Depending on the location of the motor, the part is located in the front part behind the cooling radiator. But if the motor is placed across the engine compartment, then your hand will not reach the part. Because to remove the crankshaft pulley, you need to remove the right wheel. If it is difficult to change, it makes sense to pay attention to the drawing, the work will speed up.

The vehicle is rolled onto the inspection hole and secured so that the car does not move from its place. To get there and remove the structure, you need to unscrew all the parts that impede access (air filter, mud flaps, etc.). Remove the generator belt. Next, open the clutch block plug and insert a pry bar into the hole to lock the flywheel.

The elements of the part are characterized by strong fixation, so they are not easy to remove. To turn a part, it is necessary to make a lot of effort. If dismantling is performed for the first time, it will be difficult to unscrew the crankshaft pulley. The reason is that factory production is characterized by strong tightening of the component parts.

Important! The right screw pattern means that the unscrewing process occurs counterclockwise. The car part spins in the other direction, so if it has oxidized, it is not so easy to disassemble it; it is useful to use additional means.

How to unscrew the crankshaft pulley nut

When turning fasteners, it is important to follow the recommendations, then the process will take at least 15 minutes. The effort should be applied as close to the camshaft as possible:

• use a pry bar to pry it up from all sides;
• If necessary, use a special universal crankshaft pulley puller for this part.

The device is presented in the form of a hairpin with 2-3 grips. The end of the gripper is secured to the edges of the part, and the end of the pin is placed in the middle of the shaft.

Scroll clockwise. But not all brands of cars turn clockwise; in some cars, the work must be done in the opposite direction. In this case, it is important to put your gear lever in 4th speed and turn on the handbrake.

If you can’t turn it, the lever should be in the neutral position. The next step is to remove the candlesticks. The key is placed on the floor or on the rear side member and turned in the direction of movement of the device.

All maneuvers make it easier to scroll, so further actions must be performed manually; if necessary, lubricate with brake fluid or WD grease. In addition, tapping the edges of the head can make your work easier.

How to remove the crankshaft pulley bolt

To do the job efficiently, the disassembled machine is placed on a stump. The pin holds the part together and is usually found in front-wheel drive automatic cars. The thread is designed in such a way that it is tightened during the torque when moving.

It is necessary to perform actions that open access to the base. To do this, it is important to stop the rotation well. A mount is used as a fixation. The tool is inserted into the flywheel gears. It must be adjusted securely so that it does not fall out during the turning process. Therefore, it is better to do the work with an assistant. Next, put a socket head of the same diameter as the pin onto the pin, attach a lever and an extension (a piece of durable pipe). After this they begin to slowly unscrew it.

Important! The longer the extension, the easier it is to unwind.

People's automobile experience

The difficulty of dismantling lies in the specially selected strong connection, without play. The fasteners are tightly screwed. They practice using a pry bar, while slowly pressing on the back surface of the part.

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When purchasing a part, you must have new fasteners. You will need a front oil seal and suspension belts. When purchasing, you need to pay attention to the grooves and marks. They must be free of defects. Otherwise, after a while you need to replace everything with a new one.

Important! When performing work, you need to pay attention to the crankcase ventilation system. If contaminated, under the influence of excess pressure, the oil seal will leak lubricant. When screwing, you need patience and, as a rule, you can achieve results after 3-4 attempts.

Installing the pulley on the crankshaft

To properly install the crankshaft pulley, it is necessary to lubricate it with grease or other viscous agent. This will make the fastener installation process easier. To put it on, tilt the washer slightly to the side and pull it onto the base. Next, you can use a tapping motion with a hammer to process the hub through a soft rubber gasket. Then, in the reverse order, you need to tighten the other parts of the car.

Important! If you do not fit it tightly into the groove, then everything will hang out, so you will need to replace it with a new one soon.

Step-by-step instruction

Due to the limited space between the front of the engine and the radiator, it is difficult to press in a new oil seal without distortion. For this reason, experts recommend replacing the sealing element with the front engine cover removed. Of course, doing this on a mechanic’s workbench is much more convenient, but there are also pitfalls here. As practice shows, after such dismantling it is difficult to restore the tightness along the junction line of the oil pan, and in addition, there is a danger of breaking the internal threads in a rather delicate duralumin cover.

Folk tricks

Let's look at a few folk car tricks that have helped more than one driver.

1. Each threaded connection, by the way, not only on the part of the car, can be unscrewed by first lubricating it with a special oil, for example: HP, sunflower oil, vinegar, brake fluid.
2. In rare cases, lightly tapping the edges of the bolt and nut with a hammer or wrench helps.
3. Removing a bolt or nut does not mean removing the pulley. How to unscrew the crankshaft pulley without a special key? The pulley sits very firmly on the shaft; it can be removed using a pry bar or a screwdriver and carefully pry it off in several places.

Where is?

The oil seals are located in small holes on the camshaft drive covers. Being at the ends of the shafts, they perform two roles, the first is to prevent oil from leaking out and the second is to protect the components from dust and dirt entering the system. The camshaft cover is circled in red in the photo. The blue arrow shows where the crankshaft pulley is located, behind which the cuff is located.

How to unscrew the crankshaft pulley bolt? — Encyclopedia of Japanese cars

Honda makes reliable engines, but they don’t install them like everyone else, with the belts to the right, but vice versa. Accordingly, they spin in the opposite direction - counterclockwise. The seemingly insignificant difference makes you think when you have to unscrew the crankshaft pulley bolt. This must be done at least every 100 thousand km - to replace the timing belt, but unscheduled work also happens: replacing the oil seal, for example. The bolt is tightened with a huge torque of 185 Nm for a 17 head, but to unscrew it, a much greater force is required. It will not be possible to remove the bolt while cranking the engine with the starter: the direction of rotation is wrong.

The gear engaged and the brake pedal pressed to the floor also do not help - the transmission springs, but the bolt does not give way. On older cars, there is a window in the clutch housing opposite the flywheel crown, and some people try to stop it with a mounting tool or a sharpened crowbar. Such a duel between man and machine sometimes ends in spilled blood or a torn crankcase, and sometimes both. The pulley has a hexagonal cutout for a branded key. Only you can’t find a 51 hexagon with a hole for a 17 head on sale, and ordering it for one-time work is expensive. Meanwhile, a blank for a special key is sold on any market: heating battery locknut 54, internal diameter (thread) - 39 mm, width - 10 mm. We grind down its edges by 1.5 mm, weld a strong flat handle 180-220 mm long - the tool is ready. On some pulleys, the corners between the edges of the cutout are rounded, so you can also saw off the mating parts on the nut a little. We unscrew the bolt with a 17 mm head with an extension and a powerful wrench.

You can weld the turned workpiece to a Zhiguli wrench for the crankshaft nut - you will get a VAZ-Honda universal wrench. It is convenient to rest the handle on the front wheel drive shaft.

To prevent the key from falling off, rest the extension cord on a reliable stand. Sometimes it is not even necessary to remove the wheel, but if tires with a larger diameter than the standard ones are installed, the wheel will still have to be removed or a wrench with a universal joint must be used.

Signs of a malfunction of the VAZ 2107 crankshaft position sensor

1. The first thing that may indicate the imminent death of the crankshaft sensor is an arbitrary decrease or increase in engine idle speed.
2. Severe reduction in engine power
3. Unable to start the engine

Removing the crankshaft position sensor

1. Disconnect the contact chip from the sensor by first releasing the latch
2. Using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the sensor mounting screw.
3. After removing the crankshaft position sensor, check its operation using a multimeter

Checking the crankshaft position sensor VAZ 2107

Moskvich 2141 1991, 101 l. With. — tuning

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Comments 32

Class! I did the same for myself!

Damn, how much did I saw off the seat for the oil seal, or rather, how much was left on the pulley from the plane...

I don’t even remember, it’s easier to take the original one and the pulley and try it on

Damn, how much did I saw off the seat for the oil seal, or rather, how much was left on the pulley from the plane...

Bring it to the boring machine turner along with the original UZAM pulley, and tell me to make me a landing tail on the VAZ pulley the same as on the UZAM pulley.

It’s not very clear what I sharpened where at the bushing expense. and what I pressed where. Can you be more specific?

Tell me how to knock out the teeth on the pulley at what distance from TDC. and which tooth should have DPKV?

Grind the teeth completely with a grinder, the dpkv is on the 20th tooth in rotation

How many teeth should I file down?

How much did you buy the pulley in amounts?

Oh yes, I almost forgot to take the DPKV from 2107 too? What do you have and how? The fastening there still needs to be tricky. it's not visible in the photo

this is just handsome! bracket)) I can’t do this myself ((exactly. But can you make one for me?

You yourself will have to comprehend the art of wielding a file, like a true Muscovite master! walk this difficult path, remember all the devils, and drink more than one liter of beer!

I see, do you still have aluminum corners like these? and most importantly, what did you cook it with? I would like at least some preparation! sawing and turning is the second half of the job. You will still have to do the adjustment in place

I bought a piece of corner at Yangi-Obad, I didn’t even think about taking it in reserve (aluminum turned out to be not cheap), I was still buying it for the adapter plate. Argon workers cooked it together with the collector.

It's clear. what kind of nuts are on the pump? with the new pulley what will move where? or will the belt and other pulleys remain in place? www.drive2.ru/cars/moskvi…/rolloff/journal/2685647/

with this pulley you need to pull out the pump pulley

but it’s clear, in general, it all needs to be adjusted in place and the generator will also have to be shifted, everything in front will come out, as I understand it, about 5 mm. but in any case, you need to make a pulley first.

Hello fellow countryman. Help me please, I also want to make a pulley like yours. As I understand it, I don’t need a pulley from a 2107 injection machine, my pulley is a standard and, most importantly, a turner with even hands. I’ll buy a pulley, but where can I find this turner? I have been following your work and records for a long time, and every day I want more and more to do all the work that you did, especially since I already have half of the MPSZ installed, even it cannot work normally on the distributor with backlashes, from which you simply cannot get rid of. If you have the opportunity to help me, write. please at this stage I need help in making a pulley.