Removing the crankshaft pulley VAZ 2114

03/04/2022 24,973 VAZ 2114

Author: Ivan Baranov

Often, when repairing a car, it is necessary to remove the crankshaft pulley of a VAZ 2114. An experienced motorist completes this operation in a quarter of an hour, but a beginner sometimes encounters many problems during removal. The article provides detailed instructions on how to remove the crankshaft pulley of a VAZ 2114, as well as a video in which you can see the removal process.

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Why is it difficult to remove the pulley?

No. 1. Depending on the engine design, make and model of the car, the difficulty of removing the pulley varies. Some machines have a lot of space to comfortably carry out repair work, while others have very little free space. The pulley design elements cover the pulley.

The structure of pulleys is also different, there are 2 types:

ordinary;
damper

Damper pulleys have an additional outer ring with an elastic band in their design, which absorbs vibrations and micro-vibrations.

Before you start removing the pulley, you need to loosen the tension nuts and bolts, remove the generator and power steering belt.

No. 2. In the factory assembly, the pulley is seated on the engine crankshaft, pressed with a bolt or nut and tightened with high compression force. Thus, the factory assembly is very strong. Therefore, if you have never removed the pulley, it will be more difficult to dismantle it the first time.

In addition to tightening with the maximum permissible force with a special torque wrench, during operation, the engine becomes very hot, the threaded connection is tightened even more and sticks. And external factors influence the outside, due to which the threaded connection may be subject to corrosion.

Some engine models cannot be repaired; they are disposable. These are, for example: 1AZ-FSE, 3UZ-FSE. Each power unit was examined in detail.

No. 3. If you disengage the clutch, the engine crankshaft can be freely turned with a wrench. Therefore, in order to unscrew the crankshaft pulley nut, you need to stop the shaft from turning. If, when you press the clutch, the speeds do not change, then it is not working. Air may have entered the system. In this case, you need to bleed the clutch.

Why are special technological holes made in pulleys? In auto repair shops, there is a special device for fixing the shaft, which must be bolted to the pulley and the shaft locked.

If there is no special device for fixing the shaft, which is screwed to the pulley, then you need to install good anti-roll devices under the wheels of the car and put 4th gear on the gearbox.

Or, the third option is to rest a pry bar against the flywheel teeth and fix the crankshaft from turning while unscrewing the pulley nut.

Another option is to insert a pin into the pulley hole, and install a pry bar around the pin and the second stop, as in this figure.

Replacing the oil seal

When moving on to dismantling and replacing oil seals, proceed as follows:

Using a #10 wrench, unscrew all the bolts and nuts that secure the drive cover to the pan.
Now, together with the gasket, remove the drive cover.
Remove any remaining gasket.
Using a screwdriver and a punch, knock out the oil seal from the inside of the drive cover.
The drive cover must be washed. Gasoline or diesel fuel can be used for this.
The oil seal is lubricated on top with silicone sealant.
Carefully place it in place and press down.
Remove excess sealant from the cover and oil seal with a rag.
The lid also needs to be wiped with a rag.
Now you can apply the fixing sealant in two ways - on the cover or on the block. The sealant is applied to the cover along the contour if you can immediately install it correctly; If this does not work out for you, then apply sealant to the block.
Before installation, wipe the installation area with a rag; There should be no gasket residue or contamination present.
Place the cover at an angle on the tray and put it in place on the guide pins.
Tighten the cover, starting with the three tray bolts, and then move on to the main ones.
Don't tighten the bolts all at once, just tighten them all and then tighten them.
Now wash the pulley in the same way as you did the cover before.
To simply install the pulley, note where you have the key on the piece and center it correctly.
The pulley is installed by twisting.
If it suddenly does not sit in place, slightly unscrew the cover bolts, push the part and then screw it back.

Video: how to remove the crankshaft pulley Now all that remains is to install all the parts and mechanisms in their places. By screwing the nut into place, it can be placed on a layer of sealant. This is done so that it does not loosen if you suddenly do not twist it very tightly.

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How to unscrew the crankshaft pulley

Depending on the design of the crankshaft, the pulley is attached to it either with a nut or a bolt. On rear-wheel drive vehicles, the pulley is usually secured with a nut. The engines of some rear-wheel drive cars can be started with a special crank, for which special protrusions are made for engaging the crank. This handle is also called a “crooked wrench,” and the engagement for this wrench is called a ratchet.

The pulley fastening nut is installed with a size of 36 or 38 mm on a wrench. Use a socket wrench. The key is strengthened by welding a long handle or putting on a tube to increase the “shoulder”.

How to unscrew the pulley nut:

Place the car on a pit or overpass.
Apply the hand parking brake.
Turn on 4th gear at the gearbox, put chocks under the wheels.
Do not tap too hard on the edges of the nut.
Throw on a socket wrench, extend it with a pipe and remove the stuck nut.

If the pulley nut does not come off:

Move the gearbox handle to neutral.
Remove the spark plug wires from the spark plugs to prevent the engine from starting.
Place a socket wrench on the nut and extend it with a pipe. Place the wrench in such a way that the pipe rests against the ground or the machine spar on the right side to prevent the pulley from turning clockwise.
We make a couple of short sharp turns of the ignition key to turn on the starter. The starter will begin to rotate the flywheel, the flywheel will rotate the crankshaft, and the pulley will be secured with a key. In this case, the stuck nut usually “comes off” quickly.

The crankshaft pulley on front-wheel drive vehicles is generally secured with a bolt. To remove the crankshaft pulley of a front-wheel drive car, you must proceed in this order:

Raise the front right side of the car with a jack. Place a trestle, stump or a pair of wheels with rims.
Remove the wheel.
Dismantle and remove the air filter with housing.
Remove the protective cover.
Loosen the belt tensioner and remove the alternator belt.
To fix the crankshaft, you need to remove the plug in the clutch housing, then insert a pry bar into the hole and rest it between the flywheel teeth.
Now you need to put on the socket wrench, extend it with a pipe and sharply try to turn it counterclockwise. The main thing is to remove the stuck pulley bolt.

If it is not possible to remove the bolt from its place, then we use the method of unscrewing it with a starter. This method is shown above.

Helpful advice from locksmiths who have seen a lot: use solvent or WD-40, or a similar rust preventative. After spraying it on the thread (if the pulley is secured with a nut), you need to wait 15 minutes, then try to unscrew it. If it’s a bolt, then it’s not easy to apply this product to the threads, although if you spray it around the bolt, it’s possible that liquid will pass through the micro-cracks and decarbonize the joint.

How to change the alternator on a “ten” yourself, without resorting to the services of a car service.

How to remove the generator from a car:
Reinstallation procedure when replacing the generator on a VAZ-2110 and tensioning the drive belt:
Alternator drive belt tension:

The generator is an important source of energy for a car. Technical malfunctions resulting from improper operation can damage electrical equipment elements and completely disable them. Insufficient battery charge will increase the load and lead to its rapid replacement. If there is a lack of charge, there will not be enough energy to power all the electrical equipment of the car. In addition, starting the engine in the cold will become very difficult.

In this article we will look at the features of replacing a generator on a VAZ 2110.

How to remove the generator from a car:

unhook the fastening nuts;
moving the generator towards the engine, loosen the belt tension;
unscrew the lower fastening nut and, holding the generator with your hand, pull out the bolt and bushing;
take out the generator;
remove the engine crankcase protection (if any);
loosen the screw on the tension bracket;
remove the wire from terminal “D”;
unscrew the nut securing the second wire “B +”, having first removed the rubber cap from it;
be sure to disconnect the terminals from the battery;
unscrew the tension screw;
turn the car wheels to the right;
unscrew the nut of the upper support of the generator and remove the tension bar;
remove the drive belt from the generator;

Reinstallation procedure when replacing the generator on a VAZ-2110 and tensioning the drive belt:

take a new generator, screw it to the lower support and insert a bolt with a spacer sleeve and tighten the nut;
tighten the tension screw;
install the wiring on the terminals corresponding to the markings;
We attach the tension bar to the upper unit of the generator using a tension bracket;

Now let's move on to an equally important part of the work, when replacing the generator on a VAZ-2110, belt tension. Incorrect belt tension can lead to a number of undesirable consequences.

Insufficient drive belt tension will result in little or no battery charge. A loose belt can slip off the pulleys and cause damage to engine parts.

A belt that is too tight puts stress on the bearings, which leads to their rapid failure. A belt that is too tight wears out faster and eventually stretches and breaks. Therefore, be sure to ensure the correct tension of the generator drive belt.

Under ideal conditions, measured between the alternator pulley and the crankshaft, the drive belt should bend 10-15 mm with a force of 10 kg/cm.

Alternator drive belt tension:

put the drive belt on the crankshaft and generator pulleys;
tighten all fastening nuts;
the belt should not give way, but excessive tension is also useless;
tighten the tension screw until the belt is tight, checking it with your hand;

As you can see, the procedure for removing and installing the device is not that complicated. Any car enthusiast can do this. But to make the work easier, it is better to perform it in a pit or overpass (if it is necessary to remove the crankcase protection and facilitate access to the lower unit of the generator).

Proper operation of the generator ensures proper operation of the vehicle's electrical equipment. Monitor the operation of the device using indicator lamps. If the red battery charge indicator lights up, you must immediately eliminate the cause of the problem.

Timely detection of faults in the power system significantly extends the life of your car’s electrical equipment

And here is a video on this topic:

Pulley removal

Unscrewing a fastening bolt or nut is only half the battle. Next you need to pull the pulley out of the shaft. The pulley cannot be removed easily by hand unless its seat is broken. In addition, if the pulley fits tightly onto the shaft, it is also secured against turning by a key.

There are special pullers for removing the pulley from the shaft. There are mechanical and hydraulic pullers.

The design of a mechanical puller is simple. Usually it has three legs, with which you need to hook the pulley itself, and rest the central rod against the shaft. After which, you need to rotate the rod, the legs will straighten and pull the pulley towards you. There are even simpler pullers that you can make yourself. If there is no removable device for the pulley, then you can use pry bars. If one person is filming, then take turns, moving it a little on each side so that there is no distortion. If there are two, then at the same time, from different sides, the pulley is pressed out from the crankshaft with a sharp movement.

It also happens that when using a puller, the walls of the pulley grooves cannot withstand and break off. Therefore, when using pry bars, they must be engaged as close to the shaft as possible.

Folk tricks

Let's look at a few folk car tricks that have helped more than one driver.

Each threaded connection, by the way, not only on the part of the car, can be unscrewed by first lubricating it with a special oil, for example: HP, sunflower oil, vinegar, brake fluid.
In rare cases, lightly tapping the edges of the bolt and nut with a hammer or wrench helps.
Removing a bolt or nut does not mean removing the pulley. How to unscrew the crankshaft pulley without a special key? The pulley sits very firmly on the shaft; it can be removed using a pry bar or a screwdriver and carefully pry it off in several places.

Video

This video contains useful tips on how to unscrew the nut securing the pulley to the crankshaft of a car engine.

An option for unscrewing the crankshaft pulley bolt using a poly V-belt.

How to remove the crankshaft pulley on a VAZ (2108, 2109, 21099, 2110, 2111, 2112, 2113, 2114, 2115).

How to remove the crankshaft pulley bolt. Bolted connection.

How to tighten a crankshaft pulley very quickly.

Removes the crankshaft pulley on a Honda car without a special key.

If you are faced with the problem of how to unscrew the crankshaft pulley bolt, this article is for you. We will describe this process in detail so that you can quickly and easily remove the crankshaft pulley and then begin repairing it.

Reasons for dismantling the crankshaft

Dismantling the crankshaft on a VAZ-2114 may be required in the following cases:

The reason that comes first is most often the replacement of the timing belt and other work that is somehow related to the gas distribution mechanism. Work should be carried out in accordance with the regulations, or if the mechanism fails.
Another reason for dismantling is the failure of the crankshaft oil seals. They are changed when oil leaks occur in the places where they are installed.

Pulley fastening

On all VAZ-2114 vehicles without exception, the crankshaft pulley is fixed using a massive bolt, which can cause problems when removed.

How to remove a crankshaft pulley bolt: why is everything so complicated?

A knowledgeable motorist usually spends no more than a quarter of an hour on the process of dismantling the crankshaft pulley. But inexperienced drivers, when trying to remove this part on their own, are faced with many problems that they often simply cannot solve. The instructions for carrying out repair work and maintenance of any modern vehicle contain comprehensive information about the dismantling process, but, unfortunately, it does not help car enthusiasts.

First of all, difficulties arise with fixing the crankshaft. It is very difficult to dismantle it if the part is constantly rotating, “slipping” out of your hands. It is also not clear to many from which side to approach the bolt that holds the pulley. And its strong tightening usually makes the process of removing the unit very, very difficult, since dismantling under such conditions is fraught with damage to the body covering or elements of the car’s engine compartment.

All car manufacturers and car service specialists use great force to tighten the nut or bolt of the crankshaft pulley (on some vehicle models the mechanism is supported by a bolt, in others by a nut).

This is done specifically to avoid self-unwinding of this part during vehicle operation. If a bolt (nut) falls out while driving, it will not be easy to bring the car back to life in order to continue driving it, and the repair itself will cost, believe me, a pretty penny. In addition, the described fasteners increase their tightening level independently when the engine is running. And the final “indestructibility” of the bolt is given by the phenomena of coking, sticking, and corrosion.

How to unscrew the crankshaft pulley bolt - solving the problem

The pulleys of front-wheel drive cars are usually secured with a bolt. In such vehicles, the pulley is oriented perpendicular to the axis of the machine, which, of course, complicates repair work (it is very difficult to get to the fastening). In order to unscrew the bolt as quickly and easily as possible, it is advisable to prepare in advance:

set of auto tools;
the so-called “stump” (or “tragus”);
car jack;
head (socket) with a lever and extension (the head must be selected according to the size of the bolt).

The process with these devices is as follows:

remove the wheel (of course, before doing this you need to lift the front right part of the car with a jack);
we install the vehicle on the “stump”;
remove the engine shield, which protects it from dirt, the air filter (they are located on the top side of the hood) and the generator belt;
open the plug on the clutch block so that you can fix the crankshaft, and wedge the flywheel teeth using a pry bar;
We put the head on the bolt and begin to unscrew it (if it does not give in, we slowly increase the length of the lever).

I think there is no need to talk about how to tighten the crankshaft pulley and return the car to its pre-repair condition. All operations are performed in reverse order.

Faulty pulley: what does it mean?

Malfunctions are fraught with consequences not only for the operation of the main unit, but also for the motor shaft. The fact is that while the car is in motion, the crankshaft is also in constant motion. This causes slight vibrations, but this is enough to cause the crankshaft to break. Therefore, this serves as a kind of protection for him and is therefore so important. This also has a positive effect on the operation of the belt, which operates without strong vibrations. The belt also stretches less, allowing it to stay in good condition longer. And if you don't replace it in time, the belt may even break. In addition, the functioning of the battery and its charge also depend on the correct functioning of this part. If it doesn't work properly, the battery drains too quickly. If you replace it on time, the battery will last longer. The replacement helps to change the gear ratio, which saves fuel, since when idling it will turn slower than usual, which means less fuel consumption.

How to unscrew the crankshaft pulley nut?

This procedure is easier to perform using a lever and an extension for it (you can use a relatively long piece of pipe), as well as a socket or socket wrench (38 or 36). A nut, called a “ratchet,” is usually used to secure pulleys on rear-wheel drive vehicles. Such a nut usually has special ledges.

To remove it, you need to get under the car and try to unscrew the element with a wrench and extension. In cases where it absolutely does not lend itself, the gearbox should be put in neutral, the spark plugs should be removed, the key and lever rested on the side member or floor, and an impulse should be given by turning the ignition switch. After this procedure, the nut easily comes off on the first or second try.

Let us add that a device for removing the crankshaft pulley makes the dismantling process easier. It consists of a nut with a pin with 2-3 grips attached to them (the pin rests on the center of the shaft, the grips are placed over the edges of the pulley). Such a “folk” puller makes it possible to pull the pulley off the shaft without any problems by turning the device clockwise.

Method 3

A jammed VAZ 2114 crankshaft pulley can be removed with some effort. Even an additional tubular lever does not always help break the nut. In such a situation, you can resort to a rather complicated option for removing the spare part using a starter. Because the starter drives the flywheel and the pulley itself: its force can be useful for sharply unscrewing the support. Step-by-step instructions for removing a part using these methods seem simple:

The photo below shows one type of reliable fixation;
Place the gearbox in neutral;
When the starter starts, the nut is loosened.
Move into the cabin and turn the key in the ignition a couple of times;
After disassembling the generator and timing belt, proceed to securely fix the nut with a wrench without blocking the pulley;
For safety reasons, disconnect the high voltage cables from the spark plugs;

Before carrying out work, it is also recommended to treat the contact surface of the nut with the workpiece with a special lubricant. After this procedure, all fasteners can be easily unscrewed.

After tearing off the nut, remove the part and carry out the necessary manipulations. When reinstalling a part, there is no need to tighten the nut with great force.

The only difficulty that arises when carrying out such a procedure is acidification of the thread. Treatment with chemical lubricants only partially solves the problem, so during disassembly it takes a lot of effort to successfully unscrew it.

Crankshaft pulley VAZ 2114

Replacing the generator drive pulley on front-wheel drive VAZ and Lada cars

The generator drive pulley changes in the same way on cars of the “tenth series” (VAZ 2110, 2111 and 2112), the “Samara” series (VAZ 2113, 2114 and 2115), as well as the “new” models of Lada Kalina, Priora and Grant.

The generator drive pulley is located on the “toe” of the engine crankshaft on the side of the first cylinder (right wheel) and drives the generator and, if equipped, air conditioning and power steering using a belt.

The main reasons for replacing a pulley are damage to the ring gear or delamination of the pulley itself.

Damage to the ring gear leads to unstable operation of the motor. If the teeth are broken, the car may not start because the crankshaft sensor (CSS) cannot determine the top dead center (TDC) for the ignition count.

Delamination occurs on damper pulleys (not cast iron). The fact is that on these pulleys the outer part is attached to the central part through a rubber spacer. It acts as a vibration damper (anti-resonance) on the engine crankshaft. It happens that the outer race rotates a little. Then the toothed pulley moves relative to the dead center and, as a result, the car becomes “sluggish” during acceleration, and the idle speed becomes unstable. If the pulley is too misaligned, the car cannot be started. Also, the car will not start with the upper race completely peeled off from the central part of the pulley.

Such damage is easily diagnosed by the lack of rotation of the alternator belt.

In rare cases, the seat key on the shaft breaks, and the pulley begins to vibrate and rotate. If the movements are small, then the ECU does not display an error on the instrument panel, but at the same time the engine at idle is unstable and “troits.”

Checking the condition of the pulley is quite easy. To do this, you need to inspect the condition of the ring gear for chips and cracks. The ring gear is located on the outer race closer to the engine (indicated by an arrow) and is clearly visible from above:

After this, you need to set the first cylinder to TDC. To do this, in an 8-valve engine, remove the rubber plug on the gearbox and ensure that the mark on the flywheel aligns with the slot on the plate:

You can check by the mark on the camshaft. To get to the mark, you need to unscrew the plastic protective cover. Fasten with three “10” bolts (two are shown in the photo, the bottom one under the hose from the end of the casing):

Method 1

The first step is to try to remove the pulley bolt using the standard method. The set of tools for this procedure is as follows: heads, wrenches, jacks. The step-by-step removal process looks like this:

Remove the plastic protection (if any);
Reach the pulley and lock it in one position;
If the fastening does not work, treat the nut with WD-40 or hammer the pulley with a block of wood. Often this allows you to get rid of attachment.
Place a socket or a 19mm wrench on the pulley nut and try to tear it off;
Unscrew the right wheel and jack up the car;
Loosen the generator belt tension bolt and remove it;
Remove the timing belt;

This disassembly method is considered the simplest, but it is only possible if the fixing nut is slightly acidified. Remember that applying a chemical lubricant before starting work will make the removal process much easier.

If this method doesn't work, try the second one.

Signs of malfunction and replacement of the crankshaft position sensor on a VAZ 2114

First, let's look at what a crankshaft position sensor is. The crankshaft position sensor of the VAZ 2114, like many other VAZ models, is an electromagnetic device that transmits information about the position of the crankshaft to the electronic “brains” of engine control. This sensor is very important; the correct operation of the fuel injectors and the ignition system depends on it. It doesn't break down often. But if you are going on a long trip, it is advisable to have a spare one.

Crankshaft position sensor VAZ 2114

Sensor types

Sensors differ in operating principle and design features.

inductive type. Inside there is a metal rod with a magnet at the outer end. It is designed to magnetize the rod. A winding of copper wire is wound around this rod, the ends of which are brought out in the form of connectors for connecting wires. The operating principle of the inductive type crankshaft position sensor: when a steel object is located next to the rod, a signal appears at the terminals.
The operating principle of the next type of crankshaft sensor is slightly different. It has a hall sensor inside. When a metal object is brought close to it, its state changes (from logical zero to one and vice versa).
frequency Let's look at how this type of crankshaft sensor works. The engine control unit generates pulses of a certain frequency. They are fed to the sensor and when a metal object is brought to the sensor, the generation frequency changes. By changing the frequency, the controller determines the presence of an object near the sensor. The sensor reacts to the metal of the crankshaft ring teeth (on some cars it is located on the flywheel).

Symptoms of a problem

Signs of a malfunction of the DPKV can be different. Often, dirt adheres to the end of the sensor itself, which can interfere with reading. Also, symptoms of a faulty crankshaft sensor may be as follows:

The idle mode is unstable;
Engine speed rises or falls spontaneously;
Power drops;
During acceleration, a “failure” is felt;
The car doesn't start well.

In these cases, for the most part, the VAZ 2114 crankshaft position sensor is replaced.

In addition, the VAZ 2114 crankshaft sensor may well be in good working order. And on the “tidy” the DPKV error will appear (0335 or 0336). The reason for this may be a broken wire near the connector. This is easily determined visually; then it is enough to replace the connector without replacing the sensor itself.

If the owner notices signs of a malfunction of the crankshaft sensor on his car, then this is a “signal” about the need for diagnostics.

It is not difficult to guess where the crankshaft sensor is located on a VAZ 2114. Like many other VAZ models, it is attached to the engine, and more specifically to the oil pump, near the generator drive pulley, on its cover. The sensor is attached with one bolt, which is typical for many models of this family.

Here is the crankshaft sensor on the VAZ 2114

Typical causes of failure:

Physical damage to the case;
The interturn closure of the winding turns entails a change in the generation frequency transmitted to the control unit (frequency type sensors);
Emergency wear or loss of pulley teeth.

Functionality check

If you decide to check the serviceability of the sensor yourself, treat this procedure responsibly and carry it out correctly. On a VAZ 2114 car, the crankshaft sensor is checked in several ways.

Using a multimeter. The serviceability of the induction sensor can be assessed by the resistance of its coil. In a working product it is 500-700 Ohms.
On the multimeter, set the measurement limit to 200 millivolts, connect the probes to the terminals (where the standard wires are connected). Pass a steel object several times in front of the core. The working sensor will “see” the metal and there will be voltage spikes on the multimeter display. If there are none, replace the part.
But the most accurate results when checking are provided by an oscilloscope. When using this device, one hundred percent results can be guaranteed; it reads all the information from the sensor while the engine is running. It can be observed on the device screen. The engine, during tests, should operate at different speeds. They start with eight hundred revolutions, then two thousand, and raise it to six thousand. If the lines (on the device screen) are of different lengths, you need to look for the cause of the malfunction. Remove dirt, check the pulley for defects, and so on.

Remove from the engine

The malfunction has been identified. Let's start eliminating it. Let's look at this operation using the VAZ 2114 as an example.

Turn off the car ignition. We open the hood, fix it firmly, and visually determine where the VAZ 2114 crankshaft sensor is located. Before removal, it is advisable to remove all contaminants in the area where it is located. Next, carefully remove the block with wires from the connector.

Connector DPKV VAZ 2114

Using a “10” wrench, unscrew the fastening bolt.

Removing the crankshaft sensor on a VAZ 2114

Removing the DPKV VAZ 2114

After dismantling the sensor, it is advisable to check the generator drive toothed pulley for defects. Since its damage can introduce errors into the operation of the entire system.

After we are convinced that there are no defects of any kind, we proceed to assembly. The seat must be clean. We install the new part in place and fasten it with a bolt (the tightening torque should not exceed 8-12 Newton meters). In this case we use adjusting washers. They are sold complete with a new sensor. Thus, using a special probe, we ensure that the gap between the pulley and the sensor core is one millimeter. The permissible error is 0.41 millimeters in the larger direction.

The gap between the pulley and the crankshaft sensor core on a VAZ 2114

We connect the block with wires into place.

After installation and checking the gap, we try to start the engine. With a confident start and stable operation of the engine, we can say that the repair was carried out successfully.

Despite the fact that the breakdown of the synchronizing sensor is not frequent, knowledge of its symptoms and consequences, as well as methods of elimination, will be useful to the car enthusiast.

New sensors are available in almost any auto parts store. The price of DPKV can vary between 200-400 rubles. How much a VAZ 2114 crankshaft sensor costs depends on your region, the location of large spare parts stores nearby (usually cheaper there) and the greed of the seller. Can be ordered in the online store. When purchasing, take the old one with you so as not to make a mistake in choosing a model. To avoid defects and repeated purchases, it is advisable to purchase from well-established sellers.

Replacing the crankshaft position sensor VAZ 2114

One of the most common problems of the VAZ-2114 car is the failure of the DPKV crankshaft position sensor. The fragility and unreliability of the sensor design forces motorists to either shell out considerable sums for repairs at a car service center, or learn the basics of repairs on their own, and, in our economically unstable life, the second option is best. Next, we will teach you how to replace the DPKV with your own hands. So, let's go!

Crankshaft position sensor: principle of operation, types

DPKV is a small electronic device located near the pulley under the hood, which performs a critical function: by transmitting an impulse of the crankshaft position to the engine, the sensor coordinates the movement of the injectors, which directly affects the fuel supply, which, in turn, determines the operation of the ignition system. You need to monitor the condition of the sensor regularly, especially if you have planned a long trip.

Sensors are divided into two types, each of which has its own operating principle:

Inductive. It consists of a magnet and a metal rod wrapped with copper wire. The inductive sensor gives a signal by reacting to the approach of a steel object, that is, the crankshaft.
Impulsive. The sensor consists of a hall, which changes its position when a metal object approaches it. Due to this, impulses arise, which are then sent to the power unit and determine the operation of the ignition system.

Signs of breakdown

You can determine that the sensor has failed by the following signs:

Idling malfunctions, instability in engine operation is observed;
The engine loses power;
The engine accelerates chaotically or, conversely, slows down;
Heavy plant;
During high-speed movement and, especially during acceleration, dips are observed.

The main malfunctions may be the following:

Mechanical deformation;
Broken wires or shorted wires (this problem is especially common in used cars);
Wear of the pulley and other parts.

Repairing the sensor is difficult and almost impossible at home. But replacement is not difficult, and it is not that expensive. Let's now find out how to replace the sensor on a VAZ-2014.

Step-by-step instructions for replacing the sensor

If you strictly follow the instructions, the replacement procedure usually does not take much time.

First of all, to make further work safe, turn off the ignition and raise the hood.
We find the device and, if it is covered with dust and dirt, which is observed quite often in the practice of motorists, be sure to use a rag to clean both the sensor and its installation location, so that when installing a new device, there is no short circuit in the wires.
Now we have access to the device. A positive point is the ease of removing the sensor, which cannot be said about other parts. But here it is very important to observe the subordination of actions: first, by bending the fasteners, remove the block and wires, then, after unscrewing the bolt, carefully, slowly, remove the DPKV
Just in case, it is worth diagnosing the condition of the pulley; toothed parts are often deformed, which also causes a disruption in the fuel supply system and leads to errors in the data transmitted by the sensor, which can already be dangerous.
We check that the installation site of the new part is clean.
We mount the sensor.

Installation is carried out in the reverse order of dismantling: tighten the bolt, fasten the block, start the engine, check the sensor data.

An important point during installation is to maintain the required gap, which should not exceed 1 mm. If the gap is too large, you should select a device of the appropriate size: do not try to fix the DPKV of the wrong type, as this connivance can lead to negative consequences.

How to check for sensor malfunction with the device?

Despite the fact that a sensor malfunction is usually determined by the above symptoms, this may not be enough for a correct diagnosis, since different types of breakdowns have the same symptoms. Dips during acceleration can also occur when other parts are deformed, such as the ignition system or braking system, and this also occurs when the engine itself malfunctions.

You can definitely check the sensor using the following method:

We buy a voltmeter (it’s easy to find in any car store) or a multimeter, which is even better. On the multimeter we turn on the voltmeter function, measuring 200 mV. Now we connect the probes to the sensor. And then the most interesting thing: take any screwdriver (necessarily with a metal rod) and hold the screwdriver close to the sensor. The data on the voltmeter will change, monitor its data: if the device shows 0.3 V, then the device is working properly; If the readings fluctuate, replace the sensor without a doubt.

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How to check for sensor malfunction with the device?

You can definitely check the sensor using the following method: