Why does Lada Priora stall while driving when releasing gas?

A little about the reasons

The Lada Priora stalls while driving when releasing gas: the causes of this malfunction most often are a violation of the composition of the fuel mixture entering the car’s engine.

Having analyzed the methods of car owners of this car model to eliminate this malfunction, we can conclude that such a violation may be caused by improper operation of both the throttle system and some sensors and regulators. A complete diagnosis of the car at a car service center will help to identify the specific reason for the “floating” idle speed, although sometimes it is possible to find the source of the engine’s malfunction on your own. To do this, you need to sequentially disconnect or replace the following sensors and regulators with ones that are known to work correctly, removed from another vehicle.

So, let's figure out what to do first in case of such a malfunction.

Fuel pump is faulty

A fuel pump malfunction may be caused by oxidation of the wires in the connector. The power supply to the fuel pump is unstable, and, as a result, fuel is simply not supplied to the engine. This can be fixed by simply cleaning the contacts. There may also be a problem with the pump itself. Nothing lasts forever, and it can fail. But the most common fuel pump malfunction is contamination of the primary strainer. There is no point in washing it; it is better to buy a new one and replace it.

In this article, we looked at the most common reasons for the engine stopping while driving. If the information presented in the article does not help solve the problem, we strongly recommend that you contact a car service center.

Why does Lada Priora stall while driving when releasing gas?

With such a malfunction of the system, the following indications of its operation change: air and fuel consumption increases, its injection time changes, the idle speed control step increases to 75 units, the voltage at the terminals of electrical appliances changes.

A little about the reasons

The Lada Priora stalls while driving when releasing gas: the causes of this malfunction most often are a violation of the composition of the fuel mixture entering the car’s engine.

Having analyzed the methods of car owners of this car model to eliminate this malfunction, we can conclude that such a violation may be caused by improper operation of both the throttle system and some sensors and regulators. A complete diagnosis of the car at a car service center will help to identify the specific reason for the “floating” idle speed, although sometimes it is possible to find the source of the engine’s malfunction on your own. To do this, you need to sequentially disconnect or replace the following sensors and regulators with ones that are known to work correctly, removed from another vehicle.

So, let's figure out what to do first in case of such a malfunction.

Checking the operation of the throttle valve

Very often, the cause of idle “floating” is a malfunction of the throttle position sensor (TPS). The graphite track inside a standardly installed part wears out over time, so it is replaced with a sensor with a non-contact system. After replacement, you need to reset the sensor error. To do this, disconnect the terminals from the battery for 30 seconds or more.

It is also necessary to check the cleanliness and integrity of the pipe leading from the air filter to the throttle valve, and adjust the tension of the gas pedal cable going to it.

It is also possible that the gasket of the throttle assembly has become unusable or the assembly itself needs to be thoroughly cleaned (motor oil could have gotten into it) with special compounds for washing carburetors.

Changing the idle air control

Car service specialists admit that sometimes they have to spend a long time selecting a correctly working (despite the fact that it is new) idle air regulator to stabilize the idle speed of the engine. It is in this case that, before handing over your car for service, you should use an IAC regulator removed (temporarily) from a working car of the same brand.

It is advisable to replace the idle air regulator itself in conjunction with cleaning the vehicle's throttle system.

Replacing the mass air flow sensor

Determining the performance of this sensor (mass air flow sensor) is quite simple. You need to measure the voltage at its terminals with a multimeter with the engine off. It should be less than 1 volt. If it exceeds this value, then this sensor requires replacement.

Other reasons

In addition to the above malfunctions, Priora car owners resort to the following types of repairs to their car aimed at eliminating idle “floating”:

• replacing the knock sensor (DS) or crankshaft sensor;
• cleaning the speed sensor (DS), fuel grid or fuel filter;
• checking the integrity of the wires suitable for the sensors and the cleanliness of their terminals;
• adjusting fuel pressure or the operation of the vehicle's air intake system;
• increasing the power of the electric generator by adding another diode to its circuit;
• change the voltage regulator;
• adjust the correct operation of the absorber valve;
• check the carbon dioxide content in the fuel mixture and the correct functioning of the oxygen sensor (lambda), or turn it off programmatically;
• Reset the vehicle's electronic control unit (ECU). To do this, the battery is disconnected for a while, and then, after connecting it, the electronic system is “self-learning”;
• perform flashing of the car's electronic system.

In general, such a situation can arise even due to poor quality of the fuel being poured. In addition to changing the gas station, the fuel system may need to be cleaned.

The situation when the Lada Priora stalls while driving when releasing the gas can arise either for one of the above reasons or for a combination of them. Therefore, before purchasing new parts (to avoid unnecessary costs), it is recommended to diagnose the operation of the vehicle system at a car service center.

There is a special offer on our website. You can get a free consultation with our corporate lawyer by simply submitting your question in the form below.

How to stabilize floating speed

1. Penetration of foreign air into the engine. It is necessary to check the tightness of the air system channels with the intake manifold. For such purposes, it is necessary to dismantle each hose separately and pump it with a pump or compressor, but you can try spraying liquid -40 on the hoses, where it will quickly evaporate; there is most likely a crack in the hose. In such a situation, it is better to replace the damaged hose with a new one rather than wrap it with electrical tape.
2. Replacement of IAC. The condition of this device is checked with a conventional multimeter, which needs to check its resistance. If the resistance readings are in the range of 40-80 Ohms, the regulator is faulty and such a device requires immediate replacement.
3. Cleaning the valve and elements of the engine ventilation system. In this case, you will have to disassemble the oil sump and get to the ventilation valve. It should be pulled out and washed in a product for cleaning engine elements from an oil film. You can use regular kerosene. Next, dry the valve thoroughly and then put it in its place.
4. Replacing the air flow sensor. This is the most delicate part and most often cannot be repaired. Therefore, if the cause is the air flow sensor, then it is advisable to replace it. It is known from practice that even professionals cannot repair a hot-wire anemometer.
5. Flushing the throttle valve and then installing it in the correct position. There are two methods for cleaning the throttle valve from oil contaminants: without removing it from the car, and also with removing the throttle valve. When removing the damper from the car, you must disconnect all wires and hoses from the damper, loosen it and pull it out. Next, place it in a container and fill it with cleaning aerosol. If the oil stains on the surface of the throttle valve are already old, you can clean them with a brush. Next, dry the damper surfaces with a rag and put them in place, connecting all the wires and hoses. If the damper is not removed from the car, then it can be washed on a hot power unit with a similar aerosol. Before spraying cleaning agent, disconnect power from the throttle valve. First you need to pour the product inside the throttle valve, wait a few minutes and start the engine. With the power unit operating, continue cleaning the damper with the same product. If, during such cleaning, white smoke comes from the damper, then this is normal, since oil contaminants are cleaned in this way. At the end of the work, you should connect the wires and adjust the operating order of the throttle valve on the computer, setting the required opening gap.
6. Idle speed adjustment. This procedure can be carried out using a regular screwdriver, adjusting the screws for the quality of the fuel mixture and the number of engine revolutions.
7. Replacing the solenoid valve. If the carburetor idle valve malfunctions, the engine can only operate when the choke handle is pulled out. Therefore, in order to prevent idle speed fluctuations, it is advisable to replace the valve with a known good one or a new one.
8. Cleaning the idle air jet. Even in the old days, cleaning the jet from oil deposits was considered a very labor-intensive task. Currently there is no need to remove the jet from the carburetor. To do this, you just need to pour a specialized product into it, designed for cleaning carburetors, and wait in this state for several minutes. Then you need to clean the nozzle from dirt using compressed air.
9. Treatment of parts of the fuel pump on a diesel engine from rust. To perform this task, you will need a specialized corrosion cleaning agent. This can be either an imported or a domestic product. It is simply sprayed into the fuel tank by opening its neck before refueling with diesel fuel at a gas station. The cleaning agent will clean the pump parts from rust on its own. In order to prevent similar corrosion of the high-pressure pump in the future, it is recommended to pour a glass of motor oil into the tank, which can form a protective film on the surface of the pump parts when moving.

We recommend: Non-contact ignition system (BSI)

You need to know that if uneven engine speed occurs at idle, you must immediately contact a service station and carry out detailed diagnostics of the operation of all engine systems. Timely detection of faults will protect you from costly repairs.

A hot engine stalls while driving or idling

Let's start with the fact that the symptoms and signs of this problem can manifest themselves in different ways. Quite often, the power unit may stall in idle mode, and unstable operation and complete stop of the internal combustion engine often occurs after the engine has warmed up.

First of all, diagnostics should begin with checking the spark plugs and their condition. At the same time, high-voltage armored wires should also be checked. This must be done because there may be weak sparking or no spark at all on the spark plug electrodes. Interruptions in the spark lead to serious malfunctions in the operation of the engine, as a result of which both the cold unit and the engine stalls after warming up. Replacing spark plugs and high-voltage wires often helps solve the problem.

Another common situation is when the engine stalls hot or cold immediately after starting it. In this case, on many modern cars with an injection power system, you should check the idle speed sensor. The failure of this element of the electronic engine control system often leads to the fact that the engine is simply unable to operate at idle speed.

In some cases, cleaning the XX regulator helps, in others the device should be replaced. On cars with a carburetor, the idle jets may become clogged and other carburetor malfunctions may occur. Injection engines also require additional checking of the synchronization sensor (DSPS), and possible problems with the fuel pump should not be ruled out. One way or another, if the engine stalls when hot or this constantly happens with a cold unit, then in-depth diagnostics will be required.

On carburetor cars with a mechanical ignition distributor, a situation arises when the slider stops performing its functions. Quite often, after the engine has warmed up, the central wire on the ignition coil may come off, problems with the ignition unit capacitor, etc. may occur. A known problem with cars with a mechanical fuel pump is that the engine stalls in hot weather. This occurs due to overheating, since the high temperature outside and significant heating of the engine compartment do not allow the pump to cool properly.

At the same time, attention should be paid to the condition of the fuel filters. If the filter element becomes clogged, then as the load increases and the speed increases, the required amount of fuel does not flow into the engine through the dirty filter and the engine stalls.

We add that usually before a significant decrease in the filter capacity and a complete stop of the motor, the malfunction progresses. At first, the car may not pick up speed, starts poorly, dips appear when you press the gas pedal, the engine is unstable or jerks when you press the accelerator, in transition modes, etc.

Modern cars with an injector have an electronic control unit (ECU). This unit is quite rare, but still fails. In this case, the engine may stall while driving, and the problem itself manifests itself in various situations, including after the internal combustion engine has warmed up. In this case, as well as if it is necessary to check individual ECM sensors, it is necessary to carry out computer diagnostics of the vehicle. The system will display existing errors in the form of codes, after decoding which it is possible to localize the fault. If the problem is “floating”, that is, it occurs periodically, then it is recommended to purchase a compact device that allows you to read information about engine operation via the OBD connector. Thanks to the subsequent display of data on the screen of a smartphone, tablet or laptop with a pre-installed program, this solution will allow you to record failures in real time.

Correct engine diagnostics

Most often, the malfunction can be determined using engine diagnostics
. First, you need to contact diagnostic specialists so that they connect the tester and read possible fault codes on the car. Most brands and models of modern cars make it possible, by reading error codes, to draw a conclusion about what needs to be changed in the engine or in some other units.

Engine diagnostics using a tester makes it possible to check not only permanent errors and understand what is broken in the engine, but also to read the so-called short-term faults accumulated in the memory of electrical control units.

If engine diagnostics did not bring the desired result and it is not possible to find the fault in this way, then you should continue checking, starting from the most obvious breakdowns and ending with the less obvious ones.

Timely replacement of spark plugs

The very first thing the technician should do is unscrew and check the spark plugs. It is no secret that replacing spark plugs is most often recommended for car owners if the described problems with the engine begin. Before replacing spark plugs with new ones
, it is better to check them not only visually, but also install them on a special stand. The fact is that at first glance, the spark plug may look completely serviceable, but in fact, the spark does not jump between the electrodes, as it should be, but walks along the entire base of the base and can only be seen on the stand through the viewing window. In addition, air is pumped out of the chamber where the spark plugs are tested, which creates a simulation of the combustion chamber just before the fuel ignites.

Replacing spark plugs, the cheapest repair at floating speeds

. In any case, we always recommend that customers check the spark plugs every maintenance, and since they are removed from the engine, you can also check the compression, because floating speed and engine tripping can occur, for example, due to burnt-out valves and stuck rings.

Preventive replacement of high-voltage wires

Replacing high-voltage wires is also not very expensive

and this is also one of the most obvious malfunctions at floating speeds. You can determine that high-voltage wires require replacement yourself. It is enough to wait until it is dark and in the dark to see if breakdowns occur on the motor housing from the wiring. This is very clearly visible.

It’s another matter when there are no high-voltage wires on the car; by definition, the ignition coil is installed directly on the spark plug. In these cases, breakdowns to ground may occur due to dried or cracked rubber caps that go from the coil to the spark plug. Such breakdowns are diagnosed by replacing the coils, which we will write about below.

If it stalls while driving, what is it?

First of all, when the Priora suddenly stalls when the engine is running, check whether you have left the clutch pedal - perhaps you were accidentally distracted by something and did not notice how you removed your foot. But usually the car stalls when the gas pedal is released while driving. Symptoms of the problem are as follows:

• increased fuel consumption, air consumption;
• injection takes longer (the engine operating cycle is extended in time);
• The idle speed control operates with a delay;
• The voltage in the power supply fluctuates.

The reasons why the Priora stalled while driving could be:

1. low-quality gasoline;
2. sensor error (incorrect readings when releasing gas), most often the idle air control sensor;
3. throttle valve error.

How to behave and what to do

1. Check the speed adjustment screw and simply tighten it if necessary. This way you will close the hole through which the air escapes.
2. Using regular pliers, pinch the fuel pipes one by one. This way you can determine which one has a crack or even a hole.
3. Check the crankcase vent valve for opening/closing. It is quite possible that it also does not work stably.
4. Be sure to look at the operation of the throttle valve. If it doesn't open on time or doesn't close on time, then naturally the problem is here.
5. Finally, having not found a single violation in the first four points, you can be sure that the cause of the floating speed was the “lying” on-board computer, that is, the “brains” of the car and the error can be eliminated either by having a special tester on hand, or after all by visiting a repair shop, where the error will be removed.

Lada Priora starts and stalls after a few seconds: reasons, what to do?

Winter is the most difficult time for drivers. It is in the cold that many people face a huge number of problems. One of them is a situation when the Priora either does not start, or starts and stalls.

What do you need to do to get your car to start?

Engine operation

In order for you to be able to start the engine, you need a spark that ignites the fuel-air mixture that is in the cylinder. If your engine does not start, it means there is some kind of malfunction or breakdown in it.

What could it be?

Causes

Your car may not start right away or may stall immediately when one or more parts of the system are faulty.

Now let's look at the reasons why the Priora does not start at all. So:

• Check the electrical connections of the ignition coil. They may be weakened or damaged. Replace if necessary;
• It's also worth taking a look at the fuel rail. There may be insufficient pressure;
• there may be problems with the intake tract. Check the catalytic manifold and intake manifold. The connections of these parts may be leaky;
• Perform engine diagnostics. It may be broken;
• oil can freeze in the cold;
• The battery may be low. This can be understood by the rotation of the crankshaft;
• an equally significant reason may be frozen water in the ramp, in which case your fuel system is faulty;
• in the cylinders - low pressure;
• It’s also worth checking the fuel injectors, they should be sealed;
• Possible injector malfunction.

Your favorite car, Lada Priora, may have difficulty starting during frosts, that is, it will start and immediately stall.

There are also a number of reasons that cause this problem:

• large accumulation of water in gasoline. Check this and better change the fuel;
• examine the entire ignition system - from the module to the high-voltage wires;
• look at the oxygen sensor;
• Another common cause is a malfunction of the immobilizer and alarm system. Many people advise solving this problem by reflashing the engine control unit.

Equally important is the constant maintenance of your car.

It may be that the starter turns, but your Priora does not start. What can be done about this?

Causes of management problems

The Priora most often does not start because the battery drains quickly or is completely discharged. In this case, the amount of charge is not enough to operate the engine.

Diagnosis of the starter is easy

To understand what condition it is in, you need to pay attention to the sound coming from under the hood. A cracking sound will indicate a discharged battery.

Charge the battery. Any parts of the car may be subject to corrosion, which will subsequently weaken the contact between them.

Humid air also affects parts, and if your Priora has a full gas tank and the battery is charged, pay attention to the following:

• starter;
• battery terminals;
• connections between the wires of the circuit;
• presence of condensation.

In case of corrosion, clean or replace the oxidized element. The terminals also need to be coated with special technical Vaseline.

For the system to work, pay attention to the position and contacts between the wires. If at least one is disconnected, connect according to a special diagram

Use a tester to check the condition of the coil. Check the fuel pump relay and fuse. It may be damaged and interfere with the fuel supply.

Lada Priora Sedan › Logbook › Stalls at idle.

Hi all! Maybe someone has encountered this problem or can give me some advice...

With the onset of heat (for some reason I associated this with this, although the same problem can happen in traffic jams in the rain or at night), the Priora begins to stall at idle. Moreover, the reasons are not tracked in any way... the car stands calmly at a traffic light, for example, thrashes at xx, without any jerks or floats, and drives calmly without problems, but sometimes when driving calmly along the highway you stop, say on the side of the road, and it instantly stalls! Not to mention the traffic jams...you have to constantly step on the gas...

According to observations... before it stalls, for example in a traffic jam, the revs begin to fluctuate and twitching is felt at idle, the car stalls instantly in neutral and in gear with the clutch depressed. A repeated attempt to start leads to the fact that the engine starts (sometimes with a bang!), the speed rises as expected after the start, and then immediately drops to zero... if you accelerate at the same time, it does not stall. On the highway, it goes at speed without problems, the dynamics are good, it doesn’t stall at all...

If you listen, after it stalls, the pump seems to be pumping with difficulty, reluctantly, and the distinct loud cracking sound from under the hood is very confusing when you start accelerating at the very last moment, right before idling, at the very moment when it is about to stall...

What has already been done: the fuel pump, the fuel pressure regulator, the fuel filter, even the float with sensor and wires have been replaced, the mass under the rear seat has been tightened, the IAC has been replaced with a new one - the problem has not gone away...

I really hope for your help... don’t remain indifferent, maybe after the next traffic light or traffic jam your car will be in front of me!:D)))))

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Important: checking sensors

The answer to the question why the idle speed on a Priora fluctuates can often be this: one of the three sensors (IAC, TPS, MAF) is faulty. It's quite easy to check:

• Start the power plant.
• Disconnect the IAC power supply and analyze: the IAC frequency remains the same or the motor stalls - the sensor needs to be replaced. If the frequency has increased, the sensor is working.
• Restore power to the regulator.
• Remove the chip from the mass air flow sensor and observe: the speed has increased - the mass air flow sensor is working; the engine has stalled - the mass air flow sensor should be replaced.
• Connect power to the TPS.
• Disconnect the block from the mass air flow sensor and analyze: the crankshaft rotation speed has increased - the mass air flow sensor is working, the engine stalls - the throttle position sensor is faulty.
• Attach the chip to the mass air flow sensor.

For your information. Often the problem is caused by a poor connection of the terminals of both the “negative” and “positive” wires.

Priorik stalled while driving - logbook of Lada Priora Sedan Zelenka (Banditka2) 2008 on DRIVE2

The Priora stalled while driving, I was already expecting the worst, that the timing belt broke and the valves bent. But no, I open the hood, and everything is fine there. there is surprise and bewilderment on my face, what’s wrong with her? The car won’t start, even the starter doesn’t turn, when you try to directly close the starter, it turns, but the car still won’t start.(((They hook me onto a cable and tow me home, on the way I try to push start it and it starts and immediately stalls. First we actually replaced the bad connector on the crankshaft position sensor, and the sensor itself - no changes whatsoever(((

crankshaft position sensor

After spending half the night sorting through various options for the causes of the breakdown, we decided to turn to the Internet)))

There was no limit to anger when they found out that the problem was just one fuse responsible for the main relay circuit and the starter blocking.

It was this little thing that caused the whole problem.

Issue price: 380 ₽

Other reasons why the engine stalls when hot

In addition to the above material, I would like to note a number of malfunctions that lead to a sudden stop of a hot engine while driving. The unit may stall while driving if the timing belt or chain is broken. This situation means that in most cases the power unit will require expensive repairs, since as a result of a break the valves are bent, piston defects and other damage to engine elements occur.

If the engine stalls while driving through deep puddles or other water obstacles, then there is a high probability of water getting into the cylinders or the elements of the ignition system getting wet. In the first case, water enters the combustion chambers through the air intake. Since water is incompressible, the engine is severely damaged, connecting rods bend, cracks appear in the cylinder block, etc. After a water hammer, there is usually a need to overhaul the engine. In the second case, the problem is not critical, since after removing the moisture, the functionality of the ignition system and power unit can often be restored.

Also, a car may stall when hot if there is too little fuel in the fuel tank. Quite often the engine stops when driving uphill. The fact is that during a long climb, the car is in a position for a long time when the fuel tank is tilted and the fuel level is not enough to supply through the fuel intake. It is quite obvious that in this case the engine will stall.

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Problems with the carburetor system

When releasing gas, the drop in speed can be bad for both injectors and carburetor systems.

If the car has a carburetor, then there may be several defects.

Most often, the speed does not drop due to a faulty throttle valve. When the engine warms up, it is in the open position to allow more air into the system. Then it closes and the speed should drop.

If the throttle valve is not closed completely, the mixture will still be over-rich when the operating temperature is reached, and the speed will remain at the same level. If this part is heavily soiled or deformed, it cannot close completely.

You can clean the damper using a special product, which can be purchased at an automotive supply store. Deformation may require replacing the carburetor completely. The damper may not close tightly if the drive cable is severely worn. Replacing it may improve the situation.

Another common reason why the engine speed does not drop when idling is the gasket between the carburetor and the cylinder head, which has become unusable, or a damaged intake manifold.

After replacing the carburetor or cleaning the power system, you can often notice that the engine speed is slowly dropping. This occurs due to improper adjustment of the idle system; an over-enriched air-fuel mixture is often supplied. To eliminate the malfunction, it is necessary to adjust the ratio of fuel and air supply to the system.

Lada Priora Hatchback › Logbook › Starts up and immediately stalls

I'm changing the IAC, it doesn't help, I'm going to the diagnostics on a hot one, of course there's nothing there, it doesn't show anything, everything seems to be fine. Well, great, I think I’m going to another diagnostic, and it also says everything is fine, but I need to look at it cold. I drag the car to him on a cable and he tells me that at the moment of tripling it begins to misfire in all cylinders in turn, I need an IAC sensor, I don’t have enough air for her, I change it, there are no changes, he says let’s flash it, maybe with the program we’ll flash something all the same. I am changing the fuel pump because this one gave 3.5 pressure, the new one gives 4+ pressure and still no changes, I tried installing all the coils and sensors from another working machine and still no changes.

Hurray I did it! When it was left to try to replace the only camshaft sensor, then I started removing the intake to change it, otherwise I wouldn’t be able to get to it. I installed a new sensor and put everything back together, but it got worse. I started disassembling all this garbage again, installed the old sensor and noticed that the rubber bands on the intake manifold were completely dry. I went to the store and bought rubber bands for 80 rubles. I assembled everything and the car froze. Well, I think I’ll try it in the morning when it’s cold, I go out in the morning and here it’s -28, I sat down and the car started and didn’t stall for three days, everything’s been okay. The result of this event is almost 7,000 rubles, which were spent on sensors, diagnostics, and a fuel pump.

Priora stalls while driving

The sensors are potentiometers, the moving contact of which is rigidly connected to the rotary axis of the pedal lever. The ECU electronic control unit continuously monitors the pedal position based on sensor signals.

Based on these parameters, the ECU sends control commands to the throttle gearbox and to the fuel injectors. If the engine stalls at idle speed of the Priora, such a nuisance, you need to look for which unit is to blame analytically; the engine stalls at idle speed of the Priora, all the indicated sensors. First, let's consider the following option for correcting the problem situation.

Let's assume that the VAZ has high revs. Inspection of the suspected components for faulty components showed that the throttle position sensor has traces of rust. It is located directly above the throttle valve. Measurements with a voltmeter showed that when the engine is idling, the voltage on it remains high, which means it does not close the damper.

How to fix the problem? For this we only need a screwdriver. Let's begin the procedure.

Priora stalls while driving

As a rule, the true cause of the breakdown is sufficiently identified. And even a car owner who does not have deep knowledge in vehicle repairs and the engine stalls at idle speed of the Priora can easily correct the problems that have arisen, accompanied by the incorrect behavior of their car.

This breakdown occurs as a result of 3 reasons:. However, the most popular is still black carbon deposits on the spark plugs, which prevents the spark from appearing or causes it to work periodically.

The cause of a stalled engine is the spark plugs

In 50% of cases, the problem is due to the fact that the spark plugs simply do not produce a spark. This failure occurs as a result of 3 reasons:

• contacts become clogged;
• plaque forms along the entire contour of the candle;
• malfunction when supplying voltage to the spark plug.

However, the most popular is still black carbon deposits on the spark plugs, which prevents the spark from appearing or causes it to work periodically.

Tip: if the spark plug set malfunctions, you will hear a “triple” sound that is uncharacteristic of the engine. In this case, the car will jerk strongly while moving. As a result, the engine will either stall on its own, or you will need to turn it off and turn the ignition on again.

If you see dirt on the surface of the contacts, this indicates the need to replace a low-quality type of fuel or check the serviceability of the oil supply systems. It is the oil supply adjustment sensors that can splash the spark plugs with it if there is a problem. Also, oil that appears on a set of spark plugs may indicate serious damage to components in the engine cylinders. Be sure to check the engine at a car service center. Otherwise, further operation may lead to expensive replacement of jet rods and even the entire set of pistons.

If you systematically use low-quality gasoline samples, you may find a red-brown coating on the contour of the spark plug. In this case, cleaning will not help - it is better to immediately replace the entire set after a new refill. If you find that the car periodically turns off at full speed, but starts easily even with clean spark plugs, then the problem lies in the electrical wiring.

Fuel supply faults

It is quite easy to find out that the car stalls while driving due to the engine being “choked” with the fuel mixture - during a long drive you will find that the signal of the sensor responsible for this function is constantly on.

Here the problem lies in low-quality fuel, which does not quickly “ignite” from the spark of the candles. It can also be caused by gasoline not meeting the requirements for the octane number specified in the vehicle specifications. If there are problems with fuel, the gas pedal will be pressed all the way, and the car will not begin to gain speed. In addition, the car will periodically stall when the clutch is engaged.

Another symptom indicating problems with fuel is the appearance of problems with the car after refueling. The problem is characterized by a rapid drop in engine power at full speed, as well as when constantly changing gears. The way out of the situation is to completely drain the bad fuel mixture, wash the engine and all the fuel system pipes.

• Dirt in the fuel filter;
• Problems with injector nozzles;
• Dirty throttle valves;
• Fuel pump power failure.

The main symptom of a malfunction of these parts is that there will be a gradual drop in the power of the car’s engine, after which the car will stall even after sharply pressing the gas pedal. If you do not release the clutch carefully when changing gears, this will also cause the engine to stall.

The contamination of the fuel filter and fuel pump can be judged by the unstable operation of the machine even during idling and during rapid braking (when the supply of the fuel mixture decreases). And if the performance of fuel filters can be easily established during an external inspection and eliminated by replacing them, then to detect other causes, you need a full-fledged computer diagnostics, which can only be carried out in a car service center.

Another reason for a stalled car associated with the operation of the fuel pump is boiling gasoline in the fuel pump. This happens mainly in hot weather when the car is moving slowly or standing on the highway in traffic jams. The car will start to stall while driving, but when you turn on the idle speed and press the clutch, it will start again.

If boiling occurs, it is better to stand in a traffic jam with the engine turned off and gradually cool the car. After 5-10 minutes, the car's operation will be stable again.

Advice: if you recently did a wheel alignment with your own hands on a VAZ-2107, then to cool the car, proceed as follows - throw a piece of cloth made of dense material over the fuel pump body, which you first moisten with cold water.

The cause of a stalled engine is a power supply failure

In this type of problem, 3 reasons may be involved:

• Poor contact with the terminals of the new battery;
• Detection of poor contact or breakdown along the entire length of high-voltage wires;
• The appearance of malfunctions in the generator or ignition coil system of the car.

If the problem lies in damp high-voltage wires, then it is best to replace them completely along with the battery contacts. If the terminals make poor contact, you need to carefully clean them with sandpaper and try to reconnect them. If the generator is found to be inoperable, the problem usually boils down to problems in the following parts:

1. Broken timing belt;
2. There is a malfunction inside the housing of the unit itself.

A problem with the generator is easily detected when the corresponding indicator on the dashboard turns on. In addition, if there is insufficient energy supply, the backlight of the on-board panel will gradually fade, and a set of other diagnostic sensors will show incorrect values.

Advice: if when you press the gas the car jerks, then stalls and cannot start, then the problem is related to the failure of the ignition coils. It is best to replace these parts in a car service using special equipment.

From the list of reasons that are directly related to the car engine, you need to move on to problems that arise in the fuel and air supply systems, as well as malfunctions of components responsible for exhaust gas removal.

Main reasons and ways to solve them

Lada Priora 16 valves is a car created on the basis of innovative technologies borrowed from foreign concerns, so the technical side provides different functionality. Another important property is that all parts are original, so if necessary, the consumer can easily carry out repair work.

The reasons why a car does not start may differ depending on external influences, namely the lack of starting torque in cold weather, due to technical problems, and so on.

Starter failures and their solutions

If the starter does not turn and the car engine does not start, then the following breakdowns and ways to eliminate them can be identified.

The car does not start due to insufficient crankshaft speed

The primary reason why a car may have difficulty starting when cold is poor crankshaft movement. When you try to activate the motor, it may rotate too slowly, which is why the crankshaft simply does not reach the required starting frequency. The standard starting frequency for starting the motor is approximately 40-50 rpm. If you notice that the crankshaft is not rotating fast enough, the reasons for this are the following:

1. Insufficient battery charge.
2. Solidification of engine oil.

The solution to the problem is based on the cause of the problem. If you leave your battery in your car in the cold, draining it may be the best possible outcome.

As for motor oil, this is a common mistake made by novice car enthusiasts. I bought the car in the summer, with summer oil, and even mineral oil, but did not drain it before the frost. So it freezes, and quite quickly. If you are faced with such a problem, there is nothing you can do. There is a temporary solution, but it is quite dangerous. You need to pour a little gasoline into the oil filler neck and crank the crankshaft with the starter several times, and then leave the car for 24 hours. The oil will become less thick, but in this case you will soon have to change:

Therefore, immediate advice for novice car enthusiasts: with the onset of frost, drain the mineral oil from the engine. The sooner you do this, the lower the risk of a problem occurring. Experienced drivers advise using semi-synthetics for the winter, which can withstand much lower temperatures.

Oil

Many car owners try to change their oil before winter. But not everyone knows that the oil with the lowest viscosity is best suited for winter. Thick oil will simply harden in winter. In addition, when the engine is cold, it is very difficult for it to drive thick oil through the channels. If the picture is complemented by an old battery, then this aggravates the situation even more. Therefore, you need to try to purchase oil of exactly the viscosity at which the engine can start normally even in cold weather. Typically, a product with a viscosity of 5W30 is purchased. But in any case, you need to look at the manufacturer's recommendations. You should not deviate significantly from the tolerances.

Lada Priora Sedan 2009, 98 l. With. - observation

Lada Priora, 2012

Comments 34

My revs are fluctuating, I’ve already tried everything and nothing helps, but when I decided to just pull the gas pedal slightly towards myself, the revs returned to normal and everything is ok, apparently there’s a problem with the throttle cable, I’ll try to tighten it.

Priora 2014, 106 thousand mileage, 16kL engine. 127, 106hp, air conditioning, abs. There is a gas injector (distribution) of the latest generation. The whole point is that at idle speed on a warm engine the speed fluctuates up to 1000, (precisely on a warm one) and on gasoline this is not so pronounced, practically not noticeable and a rare phenomenon, although it gives Sometimes you know about yourself, sometimes you increase the speed, release the pedal, it disappears, but as for the gas, things are already the other way around. Before this, the check light was on, diagnostics showed a malfunction of the throttle mechanism, I thought it was the problem, I bought a new one, changed it, and retrained it. As soon as I got home, the revs started to pick up again. What could be the reason, has anyone encountered it?

Hello, you described my problem))) did you solve it?)

Need advice. The cylinders turn off and whatever one wants, it doesn’t matter the first or the third or two at once, the error shows gaps in the protection. I changed everything I could, coils, filters, fuel pump assembly, crankshaft sensor, they didn’t give a damn. I changed all the spark plugs passed but not for long at 1000 km. I washed the throttle and already took everything apart. Priora 2 2015 Guards

The same problem after removing the intake manifold injectors on xx Jackie Chan is generally gesticulating and yelling error 0101, they have already moved everything again, checked the spark plugs and changed them. Misfires, increased consumption of air flow sensor, changed and don’t know where to dig next

The same problem, only the speed fluctuates when hot from 1000 to 2000 thousand

Please tell me, the speed fluctuates and it eats a lot, when you take out the chip from the DTOZh the speed returns to normal and the fan turns on, I put the chip back in, the speed is normal and it eats a little, after a while everything is the same again. Does anyone know what kind of miracles this is?

All your problems start from the catalyst, because it is the catalyst that determines whether the fuel has burned out and begins to regulate the system. A new one costs from 3 to 8 thousand rubles. and with our quality of fuel they go down the drain very quickly. So don’t even doubt it and go ahead. After the firmware, your euro level will drop (it all depends on the firmware), but I can say one thing: if the firmware is good, the engine will only be pleased.

Symptoms: Accelerated engine warm-up Speeds float at xx Acceleration response decreases There have been cases where consumption decreased (decently)

Don’t forget to ask the technician to set the temperature threshold of the first fan mode (if you have 2 of them) to 99℃ (from the factory 103℃), but if the technician is normal, he will do it himself or suggest it to you.

I have a 2007 Priora, I bought it half a year ago, the revs fluctuated, the car sometimes stalled when switched to neutral. I changed the throttle sensor and IAC, washed the throttle body. Now, when starting a cold engine, the revolutions jump from 1200 to 1900. I went for diagnostics and there were no errors. They told me to change the adsorber valve, but the valve is working. Maybe someone has encountered such a problem?

Have you encountered engine problems when the car stalls in traffic jams or the engine speed is unstable? There may be several reasons for these malfunctions. It is recommended to start searching for a problem with diagnostics, and if this is not possible, then first perform a check, and only then change the faulty parts.

AvtoVAZ installs the same type of engines on modern Lada cars (Kalina, Granta, Priora, Largus, Vesta, Niva or XRAY), so the solution to problems for all these cars is similar.

The idle speed fluctuates, the engine stalls when moving (on the move) or at a standstill, the reasons may be the following:

1. The engine air filter is clogged.
2. The spark plugs are faulty.
3. High voltage wires are faulty.
4. Ignition module/coils are faulty.
5. The idle air control (IAC) or its electrical circuits are faulty.
6. The throttle position sensor (TPS) is faulty or the throttle assembly is dirty.
7. The mass air flow sensor (MAF) is not working.
8. The oxygen sensor (OS) or circuits are faulty.
9. There is insufficient pressure in the fuel rail.
10. Compression in the cylinders is low.
11. The exhaust system is leaking.
12. Air leaks through the crankcase ventilation hoses and the hose connecting the intake pipe to the vacuum brake booster.
13. The cylinder head gasket is damaged.
14. The timing belt or tension roller is worn.
15. The camshaft cams are worn.
16. The valve timing is off. Check the alignment of the marks on the crankshaft and camshaft.
17. The engine control unit (ECU) or its circuits are faulty.

The beginning of problems

If you unexpectedly discover that the idle speed in your car is floating, not only do you not need to panic, but generally be nervous. This nasty thing can occur both on cars with a carburetor engine and on models with an injection engine, and most importantly, sometimes even decent foreign cars, not to mention domestic models, do not avoid this fate.

The only difference is in the fuel injection system and, accordingly, in the methods of eliminating this trivial nuisance. But, since we decided to consider the problem from the point of view of modern Priora and/or Kalina, then we will have to evaluate the injection version of the engine with the so-called electronic fuel injection.

How it happens in reality

However, the situation can develop completely differently: sometimes these surges can just as suddenly disappear after a short warm-up of the engine, but it also happens the other way around - you’ve been driving for a long time, you stop at a traffic light, for example, and then pandemonium begins.

What's the matter

There may be several reasons for this disgusting and inappropriate behavior. We will list all possible situations when the idle speed fluctuates.

1. The electronic control unit of the car (on-board computer), called the “brains,” has “gone crazy.” Simply put, the system caught a glitch.
2. The throttle position sensor is broken.
3. The temperature sensor brazenly “lies”, showing that the engine has long warmed up and is ready for maximum load, which means it no longer requires increased fuel supply.
4. If there are increased idle speeds, then it is likely that the crankcase ventilation valve has closed.

Well, of course, we should also mention the carburetor. Basically, the idle speed fluctuates only on those cars on which some “skilled person” got into the carburetor itself (removed it, for example), and then just as “skillfully” put it back in place, knocking down the setting and tightening something not this way.

By the way, if we take diesel engines as an example, then everything could not be simpler and the reason for the floating speed is the jamming of the blades in the pump, which occurs due to primitive rust. That is, you remove the rust from the blades and the speed returns to normal.

Replacing the rear engine oil seal

How to behave and what to do

1. Check the speed adjustment screw and simply tighten it if necessary. This way you will close the hole through which the air escapes.
2. Using regular pliers, pinch the fuel pipes one by one. This way you can determine which one has a crack or even a hole.
3. Check the crankcase vent valve for opening/closing. It is quite possible that it also does not work stably.
4. Be sure to look at the operation of the throttle valve. If it doesn't open on time or doesn't close on time, then naturally the problem is here.
5. Finally, having not found a single violation in the first four points, you can be sure that the cause of the floating speed was the “lying” on-board computer, that is, the “brains” of the car and the error can be eliminated either by having a special tester on hand, or after all by visiting a repair shop, where the error will be removed.

Recommendations

In addition to the above, don’t be lazy and also check the spark plugs, the wires going to them and the distributor. This does not greatly affect the speed, but in total it can bring a positive result.

I heard that on many Priors the idle speed fluctuates when the car is warmed up. So I was ready for this.

) Not always, but sometimes they float, and it’s annoying... Especially if you also turn on the headlights, rear window heater and heater, then the swimming range becomes even greater (from about 800-1000). Maybe still a break-in, although I heard that after 10.

000 thousand mileage, this kind of garbage also happens... If anyone had or still has the same problems, or maybe someone knows what to do about it, write and we’ll discuss it.