Central locking is a useful and convenient option in any car, so failure of this system often becomes a serious nuisance. Most 2114s came with a central locking option from the factory. Over time, the system begins to work incorrectly, which manifests itself in rare activation of door locks or complete failure. One of the reasons for the failure of the central locking system is a burnt-out fuse for the central locking of the VAZ 2114. In the article, we will look at the main locations of the fuse, and also analyze other reasons for the malfunction of the central locking system in the “four”.
Useful video:
Lada Kalina - fuse and relay blocks
Lada Kalina 1st
generation was produced in 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012 and 2013 under internal serial numbers
VAZ-1117, VAZ-1118, VAZ-1119
with sedan bodies , hatchback, station wagon. In this article we will show a description of fuses and relays of the 1st generation Lada Kalina with block diagrams and photographs. Note the fuse responsible for the cigarette lighter.
The design of the blocks and the purpose of the elements in them may differ from those presented and depend on the year of manufacture and level of equipment of your Lada Kalina. Check the description with yours, printed on the back of the protective cover, or other technical documentation.
Main block
The main block with fuses and relays is located under the instrument panel on the driver's side, behind the protective cover.
Scheme Option 1
Scheme Option 2
Description of fuses
p, blockquote 10,0,0,0,0 —>
| F1 | 15A Electronic engine control unit, cooling fan relay, fuel injectors |
| F2 | 30A Electric windows |
| F3 | 15A Hazard alarm |
| F4 | 20A Windshield wiper, airbag |
| F5 | 25A Heater (viburnum heater fuse), Electric power steering control unit, Windshield washer |
| F6 | 20A Horn |
| F7 | 10A LCD instrument cluster indicator, Brake light switch and lamps, Interior lighting |
| F8 | 20A Heated rear window |
| F9 | 5A Side light bulbs on the right side, Glove box light bulb |
| F10 | 5A Side light bulbs on the left side, Outside lighting indicator in the instrument cluster, License plate light bulbs |
| F11 | 7.55A Rear fog light, Immobilizer control unit |
| F12 | 7.5A Low beam lamp right block - headlights |
| F13 | 7.5A Low beam lamp left block - headlights |
| F14 | 10A High beam lamp right block - headlights |
| F15 | 10A High beam lamp left block - headlights |
| F16 | 10A Right fog lamp |
| F17 | 10A Left fog lamp |
| F18 | 20A Heated front seats, cigarette lighter |
| F19 | 10A ABS |
| F20 | 15A Cigarette lighter , luggage compartment lock, diagnostic connector |
| F21 | 10A Transmission reverse lock circuit |
| F22 | 15A Security alarm control unit |
| F23 | 10A Electric power steering control unit |
| F24 | 7.5A Air conditioner |
| F25 | 10A Interior lighting, brake lights |
| F26 | 25A ABS |
| F27 | Spare |
| F28 | Spare |
| F29 | Spare |
| F30 | Spare |
| F31 | 50A Electric power steering |
| F32 | 30A ABS |
Fuse number 20 at 15A is responsible for the cigarette lighter.
Relay purpose
p, blockquote 12,1,0,0,0 —>
| K1 | Headlight washer relay |
| K2 | Power window relay |
| K3 | Additional starter relay |
| K4 | Ignition switch unloading relay |
| K5 | Alarm relay |
| K6 | Heated Seat Relay / Wiper Relay |
| K7 | High beam relay |
| K8 | Horn relay |
| K9 | Fog light relay |
| K10 | Relay for heated rear window and exterior mirrors |
| K11 | Seat heating relay |
| K12 | Fuel pump relay |
| K13 | Reverse light relay |
| K14 | Radiator cooling fan relay |
| K15 | Heated windshield relay |
| K16 | Heated windshield relay |
| K17 | A/C compressor clutch relay |
Purpose of fuses
What fuses are on the VAZ 2114? The electrical circuit of this car is designed in such a way that in front of all the main electrical units there are chargers located in the fuse box.
VAZ 2114 fuse diagram
The connection diagram of these protective devices is shown in the figure.
- F1 - rated insert current 10 A - protects the fog lamps located at the rear.
- F2 - with a current of 10 A - these are left and right turn lights, an emergency warning light, a relay-breaker for turn lights and emergency lights.
- F3 - with a current of 7.5 A - protection of light bulbs in the cabin and trunk, trip computer circuits, ignition and brake lights, "Check engine" warning light.
- F4 - with a current of 20 A - protects switches located in the heating circuit of the trunk door glass and heating elements of this glass, “carrying” contacts.
- F5 - with a current of 20 A - protects the horn circuit and its switch, as well as the electric motor of the cooling system fan.
- F6 - with a current of 30 A - this is a circuit of electric windows and their switches with contacts.
- F7 - with a current of 30 A - a protective device for three electrical units - a heater, a windshield washer and a headlight cleaner. In addition, there is also a cigarette lighter, glove compartment lighting and winding for the heating switch for the trunk door glass.
- F8 - with a current of 7.5 A - is protection for the right fog light bulb located in front.
- F9 - with a current of 7.5 A - this is protection for the left fog light bulb located in front.
- F10 - with a current of 7.5 A - protects the indicator lights on the left side, the license plate number, the engine compartment light, the dashboard lights and switches with heating levers, as well as the indicator lights for the size.
- F11 - with a current of 7.5 A - protects the right-side headlight bulbs.
- F12 - with a current of 7.5 A - a protective device for the right low beam headlight bulb.
- F13 - with a current of 7.5 A - a protective device for the left low beam headlight bulb.
- F14 - with a current of 7.5 A - protects the left high beam headlight and the blue high beam warning light.
- F15 - with a current of 7.5 A - protects the right high beam headlight.
- F16 - with a current of 15 A - protects the light bulbs and the turn switch and hazard warning lights, the white reverse light, the power supply of the instrument cluster, the trip computer, the generator winding (at startup), the lights indicating low oil pressure, brake fluid and parking brake, battery discharge.
Engine control unit
This unit is located in the center console.
The fuses responsible for engine operation are located on top under the protective cover.
Photo - diagram
Designation
p, blockquote 17,0,0,0,0 —>
- Diagnostic connector
- 15A - Main relay circuits (winding of the cooling system electric fan relay, canister purge valve, air flow sensor, speed sensor, oxygen concentration sensor, ignition coil)
- 15A - Fuel pump, viburnum fuel pump fuse.
- 15A - Constant power supply circuits of the controller (ECU)
The relays are located in the lower right part of the console, where the fuses for the electric cooling fan are also attached.
The diagrams do not fit or you own a different generation of the model, study this description for the Lada Kalina 2.
We have also prepared video material on this material on our channel. Come in and subscribe.
p, blockquote 24,0,0,0,0 —> p, blockquote 25,0,0,0,1 —>
And if you have any questions, write them in the comments.
Source
READ ALSO ON THE SITE
One of the most common signs of a malfunction of the valves on the VAZ 2110/2112 is a distinct knocking sound when the engine is running. Also, the engine stopping when starting the machine may also indicate improper operation of the valves.
Thermal clearances in the valve mechanism serve to ensure a tight fit of the valve on the seat when the valve drive parts expand during engine operation. The thermal clearance of MAZ diesel engine valves.
Step-by-step instructions for adjusting the ignition timing of the UMZ 421 engine installed on UAZ and GAZelle cars. ➤ Using the starting handle (from the car tool kit), set the crankshaft to the position corresponding to the angle.
Central locking control on Lada Kalina
Every car owner is concerned about the safety and security of their car. This is especially true for those who are forced to leave their “iron horse” for a long time in public places, as well as in the courtyards of residential buildings. The desire to protect your property is understandable, given the fairly high crime rate. Modern cars are produced with a security system straight from the assembly line. Most often we are talking about the central locking.
It is very convenient and practical, so it remains unrivaled when choosing a security system for little money. Using this device, you can close and open all doors, including the trunk lid, automatically. All this is done both directly by turning the key in the lock, and from the remote control.
Features of standard central locking
AvtoVAZ even installs a central locking system with a remote control from the factory even on the most budget versions of Kalina. However, such a system is clearly not enough to effectively protect a car from theft. The Lada Kalina central locking system is also controlled from the interior. On the driver's door next to the power window control unit there is a central locking button. The ignition key simultaneously functions as a remote control. On its plastic part there are three buttons, the purpose of which is as follows:
- Unlocking. One press – the actuator should click and the driver’s door will open, two presses – the rest.
- Closing. To close all doors at the same time, just press the button once.
- Opening the trunk. Not available on all trim levels, as a trunk lock actuator is required. You can also install the electric drive yourself.
Kalina also provides another important function - rear door locking, as it is also called - child protection. To activate it, you need to use the key to turn the red chip to the right near the lock from the outside. After this, opening the rear doors from the passenger compartment is not possible, so that children cannot accidentally fall out while driving.
The central locking system does not have anti-theft functions; there are no shock sensors. All that the central lock can do is signal an unauthorized opening.
Basic central locking malfunctions and methods for eliminating them
There are times when, after pressing the door unlock button, you may encounter a lack of response to the command. The lock cannot be removed and the central lock does not respond to button presses on the remote control. Conclusion - Kalina's central locking does not work.
You can gain access to the interior using a key, but in this case the sound alarm is not deactivated, and everyone will know when the car is opened. If the system does not respond to commands from the remote control, there may not be many problems: either the batteries in the remote control are low and need to be replaced, or synchronization is lost. In this case, it is not repair that is required, but restoration of the system's functionality.
Diagnosis and care
In order for everything to work normally and without failures, this system must be promptly maintained and diagnosed. In fact, the car must be constantly monitored by the driver, otherwise some systems may fail while driving.
The main failure in the system is that after washing in winter, the locks freeze. In order to avoid this problem, you should ventilate the lock. Unfortunately, many car washes do this rarely or not at all. When the lock freezes, the driver simply will not be able to get into the car because the cylinders freeze and the key cannot be inserted or does not open the door.
It often happens that after washing the driver easily opened the car and drove home or to work, leaving the car on the street for some time, the moisture in the lock freezes, does not allow the larvae to move, and when the driver tries to open the door, the key simply cannot be inserted into the larva of the castle.
Freezing of larvae happens not only with central locking, but also on cars that do not have this system. On those cars where there is no central locking, everything is much simpler; all you have to do is pour hot water on the lock, the cylinders will begin to move and the car will open. The situation with the central locking is more complicated; here the rods freeze, blocking all the doors.
Restoring synchronization
Synchronization may be lost if there is a short-term (from 6 seconds) lack of power to the microcircuit in the key fob. In this case, desynchronization may actually occur, i.e. the connection between the remote control and the control unit of the central locking Lada Kalina is lost. According to the operating manual, if such situations arise, it is necessary to register the key fob again, entering data about it into the memory of the central locking system. You should immediately take into account that the procedure is far from the simplest and most understandable, and you also need a special training key. You can try to restore synchronization as follows:
- Turn the ignition switch with the key that requires synchronization.
- Wait 6 seconds.
- After the immobilizer lamp stops flashing, the ignition can be turned off.
After 10 seconds, the same key is used to start the car again. If the immobilizer warning light does not blink, it means that synchronization has been restored.
At first glance, nothing complicated, but this method does not help in all cases. If there is a training key, but there is no previously registered key, then the ignition is first turned on, then turned off. After the immobilizer warning lamp stops flashing, within six seconds the key is moved to the second position of the ignition switch (starter).
General information
To begin with, it will be useful to find out where the immo is located, because if this device does not work, to disable it you need to gain physical access to the device. In VAZ 2115 cars, the immo is located behind the center console, to the right of the steering wheel.
Today there are two types of devices: contact and non-contact. Contact systems are controlled using keys, while contactless systems are controlled using special chips built into a key fob or card. In the case of VAZ cars, immos are installed only on injection versions of cars.
Principle of operation
The operating principle of this device is based on data exchange between the control unit and the immo. The anti-theft device transmits data to allow or prohibit the start of the power unit. If prohibited, the system automatically blocks the ignition circuit with the fuel pump, and accordingly, starting the engine will be impossible. That is, without initialization the power unit will not be able to start.
Conversion into a single door unlocking impulse
The controller of the central locking control unit opens the doors in two stages: one press of the button unlocks the driver’s door, two presses – all others. But you can make it so that everything unlocks after one press. This is very easy to do:
- Turn on the ignition.
- Press the unlock and close buttons at the same time and hold for at least five seconds.
- After the beep, the key can be released.
When the buzzer sounds once, the system notifies you of the transition to a new mode. Returning everything to the way it was before is just as easy. To do this, repeat the above procedure and wait for the double buzzer to confirm the transition to the default settings.
Replacing the battery in the key fob
A sign of a low key fob battery will be the LED flashing quickly when you press any button. The central locking does not respond to commands. It is worth noting that a discharged battery will not affect the ability to start the engine. Since the immobilizer can easily read the code written on the chip, synchronization will not be lost.
Disassembling the key fob is very simple; just unscrew one screw on the body and, using any available tool, remove the cover on which the buttons are located. Next, the printed circuit board is removed, under which the battery is located. You need to determine its type by reading the letter and number combination. When replacing, be sure to take into account those same 6 seconds, i.e. have time to install a new battery during this time, otherwise it will be necessary to restore synchronization.
Replacing the ignition switch on VAZ 2114 and 2115. Work in the evening
- A set of keys. It should include both regular keys and heads;
- Phillips and slotted screwdrivers;
- Pliers;
- Thin chisel;
- Hammer.
- You should start by removing the steering wheel. To do this, use a slotted screwdriver to pry up and remove the trim with the Lada inscription (in some cases Lada). This will give you access to the 4 screws securing the steering wheel cover. Unscrew all the screws and remove the cover;
- Lightly unscrew the nut securing the steering wheel. Don’t unscrew it completely right away;
- We tear the steering wheel off the splines. At the same time, you need to apply quite a lot of force to it. To avoid damage, leave a nut that is not completely unscrewed as a limiter;
- Next, you should completely unscrew the nut and remove the steering wheel from the car;
- Remove the plastic casing from the steering column using a Phillips screwdriver;
- The block and wires are disconnected from the ignition switch;
- Turn the key to position I, this will remove the lock from the groove, and you will not have any problems when removing the unit;
- To remove the ignition switch, you need to unscrew the bolts that secure it. This is where a little difficulty arises. For greater reliability and security, the bolt heads break off when installing the lock. To unscrew them, you need to use a thin chisel. It is placed on the head of the bolt and, applying light blows with a hammer, we unscrew the fastener. As soon as you manage to unscrew the bolt a little, finish the job using pliers. They do the same with the rest;
- The old castle is being removed. If desired, it can be restored;
- Reinstall the new or repaired lock. At the same time, be sure to make sure that the tongue blocking the steering wheel is in the correct position. Before installation, it should be recessed into the groove of the lock;
- Tighten the screws securing the lock. Their heads are designed like a kind of torque wrenches. As soon as the tightening reaches the required torque, the head simply breaks off. Thus, the bolts are disposable. They are usually sold together with a lock or in separate repair kits;
- A block with wires is connected to the contact group;
- All removed parts are reinstalled.
AutoFlit.ru
People's Councils
If you are confident that the key fob is working, but the central locking does not work or does not work correctly, then you can try the following:
- Replace the central locking fuse Kalina F22, which protects the controller's power circuit (located in the mounting block).
- The power supply circuit to the actuator of one of the doors may be broken. In this case, you need to open it 90° and find a broken contact or connector.
- It happens that the reason is that the key fob screw is too tight. You need to weaken it, and the functions will be restored.
In each specific case, atypical malfunctions may occur, so the above list is not exhaustive.
Signs of trouble
Why does the VAZ 2114 heater fan not work
? The occurrence of any malfunction in the operation of the central car lock instantly manifests itself in the form of a violation of its functionality. In this case, the signs or symptoms of a breakdown correspond to what exactly happened to the system. Therefore, problems can be identified by the following nuances:
- it is not possible to open the car using the key fob;
- opening does not work when using the key;
- the key fob does not lock the car;
- the key or button does not work when closing the door;
- one of the doors does not open or does not open;
- The central locking is triggered, closes everything, but immediately opens without a corresponding command from the driver;
- locking and unlocking work spontaneously.
We can say that malfunctions manifest themselves in the form of incorrect operation of the system. The central locking system is a complex device that consists of a large number of components and control units. This is a whole network of electrical wires, which sometimes covers the entire car. Given the complexity of the system, consideration should be given to who will carry out the repairs. It is often recommended to entrust this to specialists. At the same time, every motorist has the right and opportunity to know what malfunctions occur with the central locking, what is their cause and how they can be dealt with. Whether to repair it yourself or trust the experts is a purely individual question.
Installation and connection of central locking depending on the modification of Kalina
The central locking is controlled by an electronic unit, from which wires go to the door actuators. A wire also goes from the block to the driver's door microphone, which is located inside the actuator. When connecting, installing or repairing the central locking system after dismantling the left door trim, you need to find the cable from the drive to the 7-pin connector.
Depending on the configuration (“Norma”, “Standard”, “Lux”) under the casing you can see:
- Six wires suitable for the connector (drive and two microphones).
- Unconnected wires from the drive.
- Lack of wires that should be in the connector on pins 4/6.
If there is an alarm, then wires 2/7 must be connected to the central locking unit. If the package does not include connecting all the actuators, then you need to do this yourself by connecting the missing ones to the control unit. To do this, you can use a two-wire cable that runs from the door to the central locking control unit. The electrical circuit of one or another modification of Kalina will help with the work.
Possible problems with the locking system
As we know, any equipment fails sooner or later. And central
The lock on the VAZ 2110 is no exception. There are a number of problems that manifest themselves in the operation of this system. Many motorists inadvertently destroy their car's security system. The driver should not give a long or rapid impulse when requesting a door to be opened or closed.
This action can damage the activator with which the closing device operates. When a long pulse is applied, the collector of the activator electric motor heats up very much. In this regard, the brush holder begins to melt and it may jam. After this, the activator will need to be replaced.
A fuse protects the central locking circuit. It is from this point that they begin to search for faults in the operation of the entire circuit. It is located inside the car, behind the fuse box. According to the diagram, it is located at the break of the pink wire (in insulation). Under the driver's mat there is a wire with a plug connector, which accumulates moisture and oxidizes. The power supply to the activator is lost.
The modular central locking unit may break. You should check its functionality by applying voltage from the battery to the module connector contact. The gear activator gears are made of plastic. Such parts are subject to wear and tear and this is a mechanical failure.
But the solenoid is considered the weakest point of the central lock; most often it is the one that fails. The electromagnet is controlled via a switch. When opening and closing doors, the life of the solenoids is calculated for approximately 10 thousand operations. After this number of switchings, malfunctions begin. The repair is simple: you need to replace the solenoid itself.
Connecting the central locking system for the “Lux” package
This method is also relevant for Lada Kalina Cross in the “Norma” configuration. “Lux” and configurations with additional options imply the presence of an armrest with installed central locking buttons and electric windows. From the button contacts you need to take the one that receives power after pressing, and stretch the wire to the alarm module. To connect, you can use the following diagram:
Connecting the central locking system for the “Lux” package
This connection option is suitable specifically for the “Lux” configuration, since it has a standard alarm system, and the central locking can be installed independently if for some reason it fails.
When connecting the central locking system, all work must be carried out with the vehicle's electrical equipment de-energized. Wires must be laid so that they do not touch metal. If this is not possible, then a tube is installed to protect the cable from breakage and other negative factors.
Installation instructions for central locking
Before installing the central locking system, you should study the connection diagram
Photo gallery “Central locking diagrams”
The central locking control module is located on the left side under the panel. There are 6 wires coming from it. To install the central locking system, you need to disconnect the brown and blue wires.
Before connecting, you need to check that activators with 5 outputs are installed in the doors. If they are missing, they should be installed.
In a VAZ 2114 car, the wire responsible for opening the doors is usually white and connected to terminal 7. If there is no connection to terminals 7 - 5, then the 8th terminal is connected to the brown wire. This wire is responsible for opening the doors. Terminals 5 and 6 are for closing doors.
To install the central locking system, you must purchase additional items:
- 2-3 diodes 1N4001 at 1A;
- one diode 1N5401 3 A;
- 2 diodes of 4 or 5 A, if there are no separate outputs for turn signals.
After connecting the central locking system to the alarm, you need to check its functionality.
Connecting the central locking system in the “Norma” configuration
In inexpensive trim levels, there is no button to close the doors from the interior at all. In this case, the connection is made according to the following scheme:
Connecting the central locking system in the “Norma” configuration
Unlike the connection diagrams for the central locking system in the Kalina “Lux” configuration, there are no resistors and the “+” voltage is not used. But in this case, when you press the close button, all doors will be locked, and when you press the unlock button, only the driver's door will open. The options considered are among the simplest; more complex schemes require special skills, so it is better to entrust their implementation to professionals at a service station.
Pulse programming
When connecting a central lock, it is not enough to perform all the steps in the correct sequence; you also need to select the required pulse duration for the locks to operate. If it is too large, the actuators will overheat; if it is insufficient, it will not be enough to open and close. In the luxury configuration, all electronics usually “fall asleep” after 15 minutes of inactivity. To awaken it, an additional impulse is needed.
Central locking is a simple device, but it can secure your car from criminals much more effectively than a police cap on the passenger seat. The centralized door lock system is the most convenient way to quickly open and close them. If this security system is supplemented with a good car alarm, this will prevent you from ending up in a situation where your car is stolen or damaged.
Source
