How to paint without smudges?

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In this article we will look at several ways to remove smudges after painting a car.

Smudges occur due to applying the second coat too early. Other reasons: paint or varnish diluted too thin, incorrect spray technique (spray gun too close, spray speed too slow), temperature in the paint room too low. You can read about how to paint without streaks here.

Not all stains can be removed; sometimes it is better to prepare the surface again and repaint.

To remove smudges, the market for body repair products offers special cutters (English: to cut), sanding blocks, micro-cutters, as well as special plates (shim masks) that isolate the paint coating surrounding the smudge from the effects of abrasive materials during smudge removal. All these products are quite common, but have a considerable cost. We will look at more affordable options for eliminating smudges during and after painting.

Why does the soil fall on Shagreen?

There are many reasons for the appearance of incorrect shagreen: - Incorrectly diluted material. The paint is too thin or thick. — The spray gun is faulty.

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How to remove smudges before the paintwork hardens?

Never try to wipe away a smudge with a rag or napkin, as this may disturb the underlying layers of paint.
You can reduce the spread and increase of smudges during painting. If you notice that a leak is beginning to form, you can stop its formation by blowing a gentle stream of compressed air over the area. This will speed up the evaporation of the solvent, stop the leakage and make it easier to remove it after hardening.
For fresh, uncured smudges, the following method works: take masking tape and touch the sticky side to the top of the smudge. Some of the flowing varnish will transfer to the tape. This can be done several times, each time touching with the clean sticky side, until the bulk of the smudge is removed. You just need to lightly touch without touching the lower layers of paint. Next, blow this area with compressed air from a spray gun to speed up the evaporation of the solvent, spray a dry thin layer of varnish and leave to dry. After 15–30 minutes, apply a full coat of varnish (see article on proper varnishing). The remaining irregularities can be removed by sanding after the paintwork has completely hardened.
If a smudge has formed during painting, it can be moved lower by spraying an excess amount of varnish into the smudge area. Thus, you can move the smudge to a place where it will be easier to remove it (for example, away from the edge or concave part) or even beyond the edge of the panel. This method works on vertical body panels.

Fresh varnish smudge on a car fender

You need to spray an excess amount of varnish into the smudge area.

The leak begins to slide down

As a result, the smudge disappeared and the paintwork became smooth.

The varnish leak has moved down the wing

Preparatory work and what is needed for this

It is worth keeping in mind that smudges must be eliminated before applying the finishing coat of paintwork . Before this event, prepare everything you need for work.

What is needed to eliminate smudges

To eliminate smudges on metal and plastic, you need to have the following:

Masking tape;
Sandpaper;
Water;
Sharp blade;
A wooden block to wrap the skin;
Polishing paste and machine;

Available means

After finishing painting, it is recommended to remove smudges on the car only after the first layer of paint has completely hardened.
If you rush and start the process earlier, you risk starting the process all over again. Before eliminating defects, prepare tools and other materials:

Soap solution.
A well-sharpened knife or blade.
Scotch tape, preferably using masking tape.
Sanding paper of different grits.
Beam.
Apparatus for polishing work.
Napkins or piece of cloth.

Soap solution

During the application of paint and varnish, agents are also used to protect the body. Gloves, goggles and a respirator are usually worn.

How to paint with acrylic paints correctly?

Before applying paint, it should be evenly distributed over the entire surface of the instrument, “rolled” on a special tray in a shallow puddle of paint until the sponge or fur wrap is completely saturated. Then press down lightly and roll along the plane, squeezing out the excess. Ideally, the layer should lie smoothly, without drips.

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Other things to consider

Flaws are best shown in white. To protect yourself from possible failure, do not take a snow-white coating or add a little color to it.

To paint the walls, take the paint that you like best. For the ceiling, take the highest quality one. The ceiling is the most finicky of all planes, especially since you cannot cover the flaws on it with furniture or paintings.

The main components of an excellent result: a well-prepared base, a non-viscous coating and adherence to painting technology. But at the same time, know that the ideal does not exist, which means you shouldn’t squeeze all the juice out of yourself to achieve it.

Tips from the professionals

In order to avoid having to get rid of smudges on the surface of the car body, after painting you must follow the following recommendations:

to get rid of smudges formed as a result of painting a car, you need to wait until the paint dries completely;
if you don’t have a coarse grinder, you can use an electric drill, but these types of work should only be carried out by professional specialists;
some professionals believe that if a lot of smudges have formed on the body after painting, then it is better to repaint the body completely;
You should not skimp on quality, because poor-quality paint is one of the reasons for the appearance of smudges;
if you need to remove paint from a specific place, the main surface must be protected with masking tape;
The surface can be leveled by long-term polishing.

The correctly chosen method of cleaning smudges from the car body will allow you to quickly put the surface in order. If you cannot get the car body in order on your own, it is better to use the services of professional craftsmen.

Eliminating smudges on hardened paint

In this case, unfortunately, you will have to put in more effort than in the previous one. If you find a smudge on hardened paint, do not panic; it can be removed without completely repainting a certain element.

Important! If the paint has not yet completely hardened, but is already close to it (that is, it will not spread on its own if tilted correctly), do nothing! Let it cool completely! Otherwise, you risk removing several layers of paintwork at once, and then you will probably have to repaint everything again.

Elimination of such “errors” should be done in the following order:

First, mark the boundaries of the defect (so that during subsequent work you do not “do extra work”).
Use a blade to cut off the leak. Let us remind you that you need to do this work as carefully as possible (try to feel like a jeweler at this moment). Start removing drops from the top, slowly moving down.
The third stage is the skin (by the way, it can also be the second, but only if the defect is very small). So, install a P800 sandpaper on the grinding machine, using a special cream (sometimes it is replaced with plain water). The closer you come to “victory”, the end of the work, the more often you replace the skin with a softer one. The work should be completed with P200. Be especially careful, do not rush and remember that it is much better not to rub it in than vice versa.
Polishing is carried out precisely at this stage. But at the same time, constantly move the grinder, never staying in one place.

Types of aerosol paints

Applying paint by pressing the spray button is almost a fun activity, until the paint starts to flow on the surface. When working with a brush, application is controlled, but in the case of spray cans, there is no direct contact of the tool with the surface. In order not to spoil the entire surface with inept actions, it is worth understanding what types of paints are available in spray cans and what they are most suitable for:

Aerosol varnish – suitable for painting furniture, can be used either independently or as an application to an already painted surface;
Aerosol enamel - used for painting metal products - cabinets, motorcycles and automotive equipment;

Aerosol paint for plastic surfaces - you can use it to paint garden plastic furniture and car parts;
Matte spray paint – can be used on any type of surface;
Heat-resistant spray paint - used for painting parts that can heat up to 650 degrees C;
Decorative paints are designed to create various decorative effects.

Technology of painting wood without smudges, stains and unpainted paints

During renovation work, the question often arises: how to remove paint stains on wood? Coping with the resulting unevenness can be quite difficult, so the best solution would be to follow the painting technology. If you follow simple recommendations, you can paint wood beautifully and neatly. At the same time, no streaks or unevenness appear on the surface. The paintwork material lays down in a nice, uniform layer.

Don't know how to paint wood with acrylic paint without streaks? Then

will share a few simple secrets of success.

Video on how to properly sand wood before painting
Surface pre-treatment
To perform sanding correctly, you must follow these recommendations:
Does the surface need to be primed?
Intermediate grinding
Selecting a brush
When should you use a spray gun?

Video on how to properly sand wood before painting

Surface pre-treatment

Before applying the paint and varnish, you need to carefully inspect the material, cut out the resin pockets, glue in wooden boats instead, and fill in the knots and chips knocked out with a milling cutter.

After the processing has been completed, you can proceed to the next preparatory stage - grinding. It is needed to improve the adhesion of the paint to the surface, to open the pores, so that the primer penetrates deep into the wood. During sanding, the surface layer of wood, up to 1 mm thick, is removed. This eliminates the polymerized resin, which prevents soil penetration.

» >
Photo 1. Pre-sanding of wood

To perform sanding correctly, you must follow these recommendations:

The moisture content of the material should not exceed 14%. At higher humidity levels, achieving a uniform, smooth surface will be very difficult;
If there are significant wood defects, it is better to use sanding wheels with a large grit (80). They eliminate all surface irregularities much better;
Traces remaining after wheels with coarse grains must be removed with wheels with a smaller grain size (120-150).

To fully level the surface, it is worth using several grinding wheels, this is exactly how we work in production.

» >
Photo 2. Passage with a sander

Does the surface need to be primed?

Painting wood with acrylic paints has its own characteristics. The acrylic molecule is very large, so the paint and varnish material forms a beautiful, even coating on the surface. The main condition is that pre-treatment has been carried out correctly. A mandatory step in surface preparation is priming. A high-quality primer improves the adhesion (adhesion of paint to wood) of the paint and varnish material and significantly extends its service life.

The choice of primer should depend on the type of paintwork. For acrylic paint, you need to choose an alkyd-based primer. Its molecule is small, so it effectively fills pores and penetrates between the molecules of the paint itself, holding them like roots.

» >
Photo 3. Applying primer to the surface of wood.
Different primers are suitable for different types of work. Before painting building facades or performing other exterior work, it is recommended to use alkyd primers. They fill pores well and improve the protective properties of the paint and varnish material.

Elimination methods

To combat this evil, sandpapers with small grain sizes were invented: 1500, 2000, 2500. Although they leave small scratches on the paintwork, they can then be easily removed with polish. First rough, then softer. Sanding is a monotonous and lengthy process. The temptation to take a larger skin will result in damage to the paintwork. You can carefully remove this tubercle with a special plane. But the risk of harm is also great.

There are several ways to remove shagreen after painting with your own hands. Shagreen in itself is not dangerous. She's just plain ugly. Thorough polishing cannot always remove it. You should lightly walk over the defective surface with fine sandpaper. If the defect is not significant, this will help. An overly expressive “image” is completely removed and the area is repainted.

There are ways to eliminate this defect. To do this, lightly sand the surface with very fine sandpaper and water. You need to add a drop of Fairy substance to the water. But it is better to remove the paint and repaint it again.

Secrets of excellent results

Lighting. Paint in daylight. You should be able to clearly see the painted areas and their boundaries.
Humidity. The humidity level in the room should be above average (45%). That is why painting work carried out in the summer gives better results. In winter, the air in the room is very dry, which speeds up the drying of the paint. You simply won’t have time to distribute it over the entire area. During the cold season, it would be advisable to use a humidifier.
Order. Agree that painting walls and ceilings when you always have to step over something is uncomfortable. Before finishing work, you should remove all objects from the room, or, in extreme cases, move them to the middle of the room. Instead of a stepladder, use a roller extension, this way you won’t waste time going up and down, and you won’t have to lift your head too much when working with the ceiling.
Paint consistency. Be sure to dilute the paint with water or thinner and mix well so that it is uniform. It happens that a film forms on oil paint. In this case, it must be filtered through tulle fabric or nylon stocking.
Roller squeezing. The painting cuvette has one wall located at an angle and covered with protrusions. This is necessary to evenly distribute the paint over the coat of the roller, and not for squeezing. The roller should not be dry. Dip it in paint and “walk” without pressing along the ribbed slope. The paint will be distributed throughout the coat, and its excess will flow into the ditch.
Zeal. When moving the roller along the work surface, you do not need to put pressure on it. It should roll easily.
Coating. As noted, paint over large areas should be applied not in stripes, but in W-shaped movements. Divide the area into squares and paint each one in turn. We made a zigzag, distributed the coating over the square and moved on to the next one. We rolled out the boundaries of the plots and moved on. And paint drips will not appear. If you are painting walls that have been previously plastered, spread the paint in a vertical motion. In log rooms, paint is rolled out horizontally - in the direction of the wood fibers.
Control inspection. The surface must be inspected immediately after painting. To make possible imperfections more visible, illuminate yourself with a bright flashlight. If there are unpainted areas, roll them immediately.

Defects in car paintwork

Painting and subsequent varnishing of a car may not always work out. This process requires maximum concentration from the person performing the work, adherence to technology and the use of decent quality materials. But even professional work is not without unpleasant surprises. Moreover, it is much easier to prevent various kinds of errors than to remove them later.

One of the common defects is smudges - drop-shaped formations that appear on the body.

Main causes:

Unfavorable external conditions. Varnishing can take place in a cold structure or with cold materials. Therefore, it is necessary to warm up the room and the car itself.
Features of materials. The use of varnish and thinner must be in the correct proportion. They must also be suitable for each other, so it is better to use paints and varnishes from the same manufacturer.
Inaccurate spray adjustment. The enamel must be fed through a well-functioning small hole in the spray gun, maintaining an angle of 90 degrees. If you use a large nozzle, the varnish will flow rather than spray, and droplets will remain on the body.
Insufficient degreasing of the car before applying enamel.

Incorrect positioning of the spray gun is the cause of smudges

Elimination of varnishing errors

There are several ways to remove smudges.

The first method is “washing out”. You will need putty, fine sandpaper (P2500 and P2000), water and a vacuum cleaner. The car surface to be treated is first thoroughly dried (an industrial hair dryer or spotlight can speed up the process). Then putty is applied to the stains - it will protect the varnish from damage.

The putty layer is watered and then carefully polished with sandpaper (P2500). By the way, if you wrap it around an even block and make short movements, the polishing will be done more accurately. After reaching the thickness of the putty layer, you should take a finer sandpaper (P2000) and treat the surface with it until the putty disappears. After this, polishing is completed with P2500 sandpaper. At the end of the work, you need to remove the dust with a vacuum cleaner and (if desired) re-coat the sanded fragment with a layer of varnish.

The second method is “washing out” with a marker. You will need a marker, fine sandpaper, water and a vacuum cleaner. This method is similar to the first, the only difference is that the marker replaces the putty. By drawing lines with a marker on the smudges, you can see how deep the polishing goes.

The third method is scraping. You will need masking tape, a construction knife, a rubber block, several types of sandpaper P600-P2500, soap, water. The area where the car is sagging is covered with masking tape. It is needed so as not to damage the clean surface. The smudges themselves should not be soft. Just in case, you can dry them.

Removal of smudges is done with a knife blade - they are carefully scraped off from top to bottom. Then, with a rubber block wrapped in coarse sandpaper and soaked in a soap solution, those places on the car where the varnish was scraped off are sanded. Gradually, the sandpaper needs to be changed to a finer one, ending at P2500.

The fourth method is removal with a cutter. Its main purpose is to remove dust, but it also copes well with influx. The cutter should be held at an angle of no more than 40 degrees. After treatment, the leak area is carefully sanded.

Thus, even with simple improvised means you can remove defects in car varnishing. The main thing is attentiveness and accuracy.

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How to avoid

Before starting work, be sure to mix the paint until it is homogeneous. During storage, the oil base and coloring pigment separate. Thickly dilute with the recommended solvent indicated in the instructions on the jar. For oil formulations, natural or synthetic drying oil is used, depending on the manufacturer’s recommendations. It is worth paying close attention to the thickness of the paint, especially when applying the first layer.

Important: even ready-to-use oil formulations require dilution after thorough stirring.

Apply diluted paint in small quantities to the surface. Distribute evenly with a roller or brush in one direction, do not wait for it to dry. When painting a wall or other surface, do not take breaks in work, otherwise color transitions will remain . In addition, smudges may appear at the joints if the layer is too thick. If a new layer is applied to the undried base layer, the already dried paint may peel off or stick to the roller.

Important: the paint consistency suitable for the job flows slowly from the brush during the test.

For painting, use short-haired rollers. Long-haired ones absorb a lot of the coloring composition; when rolled out, they leave a thick layer that takes a long time to dry and forms smudges. When distributing the paint, do not rush.

The key to an even layer on a wall or other surface is proper preparatory work. It is necessary to putty, prime and, if necessary, lightly sand the walls. The surfaces to be painted are cleaned of dust and dirt. The layer is applied evenly, and absorption also occurs evenly. If one of the stages of work is missed, the application will be uneven, and it is possible that smudges may appear or the layer may slip in places where there is insufficient adhesion to the wall.

Provide sufficient lighting in the room where painting work is carried out so that defects can be immediately noticed and corrected.

Causes of leaks:

Incorrect paint viscosity when spraying
Incorrect technique for applying paint or varnish. Uneven, intermittent or too slow movement of the spray gun can cause smudges to form. Incorrect overlap of previous spray pass. Typically, the next spray pass should cover 50% of the previous spray pass.
The nozzle on the varnish spray gun is too large
Incorrect gun settings. The pressure should not be too much. The thinner the paint or varnish, the lower the paint or varnish flow on the spray gun should be set.

Insufficient drying time between coats. This is an important point!
Incorrect temperature of paint and surface to be painted.
Low temperature and high humidity in the room where painting is done. The thinner does not have time to evaporate.
Incorrect choice of hardener and thinner. At low temperatures, a “slow” thinner will be inappropriate.
The distance of the spray gun from the surface to be painted is too close
Applying one thick coat of paint or varnish instead of several thin ones. Especially when applying paint or varnish diluted in liquid. A thick layer is heavy and begins to flow under the influence of gravity.
Poor surface preparation.

What to do with old stains

There are long-term stains that appear from long-standing leaks and are not eliminated. No matter how much you make repairs, they will show through the paint again and again.

To remove these unsightly places, they should be thoroughly cleaned and washed. Then the problem areas need to be treated with any biocidal solution (a means for destroying fungus, mold, etc.). There is no need to rinse off the solution!

Be sure to wait until it is completely dry to ensure that re-cleaning is not necessary.

Next, a blocking primer is applied to the areas. It is waterproof and will reliably protect your walls and ceiling from stains and smudges. After drying, you can begin painting.