Chevrolet Niva repair: Chevrolet Niva lost idle speed

Why does the Niva stall at idle (main reasons)

The Niva stalled immediately after starting, why?

Almost always, if a Niva car does not idle and stalls, the reason for this is contamination of parts, for example:

• The throttle valve, injector or carburetor is clogged.
• The idle relay has failed.
• The idle jets are dirty.
• The fuel pump is dirty.
• The engine ventilation system is clogged.

Symptoms and causes of IAC malfunction

Signs of a malfunctioning idle speed sensor appear as follows:

• during a cold start, the crankshaft speed does not increase, which is why the engine runs unstable and tends to stall;
• there is a drop in the number of idle revolutions after a significant increase in the load on the generator - turning on headlights, electric heaters, and so on;
• the engine periodically stalls when any gear of the manual transmission is switched off (the symptom manifests itself while driving);
• The speed “floats” - it spontaneously increases and decreases.

If the car shows signs of IAC malfunction in the form of floating engine speed at idle, advanced diagnostics may be needed. A spontaneous change in the crankshaft rotation speed occurs for many reasons - failure of a sensor, air leaks, gas distribution malfunctions, and so on. It is better to start troubleshooting by checking the regulator.

IAC failure occurs for three main reasons:

1. Open or poor contact in the power supply circuit. Simply put, there are problems with the wiring.
2. Breakdown of the stepper motor due to natural wear and tear. In this case, only replacing the idle speed sensor will help.
3. Contamination of the rod and cone with oil deposits.

There is a fourth reason - problems with the electronic control unit. The problem is quite rare and is accompanied by additional symptoms - increased gas mileage, unstable operation in all modes, difficult starting, and the like.

Oil deposits reach the rod thanks to secondary gases sent by the crankcase ventilation system for re-combustion. The more worn out the engine, the more deposits accumulate on the working cone. As a result, moving the rod becomes difficult; in advanced cases, the mechanism simply jams.

Procedure for removing the device.

Idle speed sensor VAZ 2112

That’s probably all the differences, on the box it says that it is installed on cars of the VAZ “Niva”, “Chevy-Niva”, “Nadezhda” family of injection group, with a displacement of cm. I wanted to install the old one, but then I thought, if it’s not dirt, then remove the throttle again, well, screw it, put in a new IAC.

Let's put everything back together in reverse order.

Don't forget about the gasket. After assembly, we check whether everything has been assembled correctly, check the tightness of the clamps on the pipes, and try to start the car. Removing the damper is easy; just unscrew a few nuts.

Then disconnect the connector with wires from the IAC. Using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the screws that secure the regulator to the throttle valve.

This component controls the amount of air mixture that enters the cylinders. The main task of this part is to make this quantity optimal for high-quality ignition.

The Chevrolet Niva throttle valve is regulated by a special sensor, which, if necessary, closes it, forming a vacuum in the intake system, or opens it, allowing the air mixture to pass through.

If the TPS is faulty, then malfunctions occur during idling. In this case, you need to remove the element and carry out diagnostics. First you need to disconnect the wire block to de-energize sensor 2.

Checking the idle speed sensor To do this, the engine warms up to operating temperature. Then just check the sensor using a multimeter.

If it malfunctions, you must replace it with a new one. Throttle position sensor This component is responsible for the amount of air mixture entering the engine combustion chamber.

If the sensor is not configured correctly, the fuel supersaturated with air will detonate more strongly, spinning the engine faster and increasing speed. The sensor can also be checked using a multimeter.

Replacing the heater control unit on a Priora

To get to the Priora SAUO mount, you will need to remove the central console trim.

And only after that all manipulations are carried out from the inside. The block with the power wiring harness is disconnected:

And from the inside we unscrew all the screws securing the heater unit, as can be clearly seen in the photo below.

And we take it out, since it is not attached to anything else:

Installation of a new block occurs in the reverse order of removal. Of course, you need to install the block that you had originally. If the air conditioner is Panasonic, then the unit should be of the same brand. If Halla - accordingly!

How to restore the idle speed sensor?

The idle speed sensor for a VAZ 2114 costs about 350 rubles

In some cases, in order to restore this part, it is enough to simply clean it thoroughly. Cleaning the sensor itself is a very easy process, and for repairs it is enough to have only WD-40.

So, how to restore the idle speed sensor on a VAZ 2112? At the first stage, the two nuts securing the throttle assembly are unscrewed. The latter, as in the case of replacement, is moved 10 millimeters to the side. Next, the wire block is disconnected from the sensor. WD-40 is applied to a cotton swab, and all channels are thoroughly cleaned with it. Next, use a Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the two bolts that secure the VAZ 2110 idle speed sensor. If there are no fasteners here, then you will have to remove the entire throttle assembly. Next, the mechanism itself is pulled out. If it is covered in oil and black dirt, then in addition to cleaning the throttle body, you will need to clean the entire throttle body.

Next, WD-40 is applied to a conical needle with a spring. Thus, after a few minutes the sensor mechanisms will be cleaned of dirt. Then the device is dried, and it can be safely installed in place. Before installation, check the distance from the needle to the body of the device (one should be 23 millimeters). Idle speed sensor VAZ 2110, 21214, the essence of the idle speed sensor and replacement. At this stage, the idle speed sensor of the VAZ 2115 can be considered successfully repaired. The machine can operate normally again.

So, we found out how the idle speed sensor of the VAZ 2114 (and other models) works. Idle speed sensor VAZ 2114, otherwise the sensor will need to be completely replaced. And how it can be replaced/restored.

Installing a Priora panel on a VAZ 2110

Replacing the entire torpedo or its lining may be necessary not only because you don’t like it, and that’s that. Although this option is not the last one on the list of reasons, since the designers did not show too much imagination when developing the instrument panel.

Panel trim for old VAZ 2110

But not all car owners know how to do the replacement themselves, and also how to make the dashboard on a VAZ 2110 look cooler and more modern, and not squeak like an old cart, although they would certainly like to learn this. Let's start with the question: why might this be needed at all?

Panel trim VAZ 2110 Kashtan

Problems and solutions

There are a lot of reasons for unstable idle, and they apply to both carburetor and injection engines and even diesel engines, both to the old type design and to the new E-gas pedal, which AvtoVAZ is so proud of. Let's start with the problems that occur in carburetor-type engines:

1. The fuel-air mixture has become lean. To fix the problem, you just need to make an adjustment to the level of eight hundred revolutions.
2. Unstable running can also occur due to wear on the carburetor valve. In this case, the engine operates exclusively with the choke mode extended. To fix the problem, you need to replace the defective part with a new one.
3. It also happens that the system channels become dirty. Then the fuel does not receive the required portion of air and leads to failure. Here you just need to clean the channels.

In the injection type of engine, there are no fewer reasons for failure.

1. The first thing you can check is air leaks. Be sure to check the connection between the intake manifold and the cylinders to see if the gaskets are worn out. There are rubber plugs on the same manifold; if they are cracked, it is better to replace them. You can check all this by buying carburetor cleaner or any other flammable item in the store, start the car and spray all the joints, if there is a leak, the car will start to twitch, look in that place.
2. They can cause gaps in speed and malfunctions in the IAC sensor (idle air control), it is often enough to remove it and clean it or inspect it for damage and replace it if necessary.
3. It would not be amiss to check the throttle assembly, since it is not the strong point of the fourteenth model. It is possible that the throttle valve is simply clogged, which causes failures in the entire system. Cleaning it is not at all difficult; this work can be done independently.
4. Wear or contamination of spark plugs also affects idle speed, as well as the entire operation of the engine. This is perhaps the most quickly solvable problem that can be eliminated by replacing old spark plugs with new ones in five minutes.

But problems with electronic equipment, in particular the famous E-gas, are much more complicated. Here it is observed:

• regulator failure (IAC);
• DMRV sensor failure;
• failure of the EGR valve (adsorber);
• damage to wires.

The regulator is checked using a multimeter. If the device produces unacceptable values, above 80 Ohms, then you need to replace the regulator with a new one, since repairing it will be problematic.

If the regulator is normal, then you need to check the mass air flow sensor. The check is as follows: the connector is disconnected and the motor is turned on.

If the speed dynamics, at the initial one and a half thousand revolutions, increases, there is no doubt that the breakdown lies in the sensor. As practice shows, 80% of VAZ-2114 malfunctions lie in this part.

Unstable to long-term operation and EGR, which regulates exhaust gas emissions. When it fails, operation can be normalized by cleaning the valve.

And the last thing that should be checked is the condition of the air filters, which on the fourteenth get clogged quite often, and the ignition system itself.

The engine stalls immediately, but then starts

Idle speed regulator.

Here the reason may be in the firmware of the electronic engine control unit. The reason for this may be improperly performed tuning of the power unit. In this case, the engine will operate stably only at high speeds. If they drop below 1,000 rpm, the engine will simply stall. This malfunction can be eliminated by flashing the unit to the factory version of the program.

You should also pay attention to all kinds of sensors in car systems. These are, for example, the idle speed control, the throttle position sensor and others. They need to be checked at stands.

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How to clean

In order to clean the IAC, it must be removed from its original location and disconnected from the connector.

You must first try to wedge the regulator with neutral silicone grease. It's okay if it gets inside the regulator. If the lubricant does not help, proceed to cleaning sequentially using alcohol, solvents, carburetor cleaners, and finally, if all else fails, the most aggressive WD wheel.

Cleaning is carried out by partially soaking the rod-working hole area for 10-15 minutes, after which you can blow through this area with a compressor.

In some cases, the cause of a malfunction of the idle air control system is a clogged bypass channel. It needs to be cleaned first. Cleaning the canal can be done using any suitable means using soft brushes made from natural fibers.

The fuel pump does not pump when the ignition is turned on

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Signs of IAC malfunction

The main symptoms of a malfunctioning idle air regulator are:

• “swimming” of engine speed at idle;

• increased or decreased engine speed;

• spontaneous engine stop when switching the gearbox to neutral mode;

• at the time of cold start, the engine runs at high speeds, as it warms up it drops, the absence of this mode is also a sign of a malfunction of the regulator;

• reducing the engine speed when turning on an additional load (stove, headlights, brushes and other powerful consumers).

How to diagnose a faulty idle air control valve and adjust it

In a car, the idle speed sensor is responsible for stabilizing engine speed at idle.

You may wonder why this device is important, whether you can do without it, how to identify the problem, and what to do if it breaks down. The fact is that a malfunction of the regulator affects the operation of the engine as a whole.

In order to understand why it is necessary to constantly monitor its correct adjustment, let's look at the features of the motor.

Replacing the idle air control

For stable operation of the engine, a strictly dosed combination of fuel and air is necessary, otherwise “burning” will not occur, and if it does, it will be incorrect.

So, the idle air regulator is responsible for supplying air at idle, bypassing the throttle valve, which begins to open only when the gas pedal is pressed.

Essentially, this stepper motor, equipped with a conical needle with a spring, adjusts the amount of air up or down. It works in a single circuit with a mass air flow sensor and, depending on the receipt of the necessary information, regulates the process.

Oddly enough, it may seem, but for the engine the most difficult and “tiring” mode is operating at low speeds. This happens for a number of reasons.

• First, the fuel is cold and the engine as a whole needs to warm up to function properly.
• Secondly, the pressure difference between the exhaust and intake manifolds causes combustion products to be thrown back into the cylinders. As a result, there is a significant decrease in the “efficiency” of the engine. Parts wear out faster and more severely. In addition, the percentage of carbon dioxide in exhaust increases.

All this happens as a result of the fact that at this stage there is a slow supply of the air-fuel mixture into the exhaust system. As a result, it mixes less well, which reduces its effectiveness.

You can often hear the opinion that when creating cars, engineers make such developments and calculations so that the idle speed control functions throughout the entire “life” of the engine.

The idle air control may break down for various reasons, including: and from mechanical stress

The reality is that it fails quite often. This is usually caused by problems with the wiring. In order to avoid problems and ensure normal engine operation at idle, various devices are used, as an option: install an idle speed controller (mechanical). This can significantly reduce exhaust toxicity.

Let's look at what deviations in engine operation make you think. It should be taken into account that some of them are also characteristic of other problems, for example, poor quality of the fuel used, failure of the throttle sensor. But there are also specific features.

• The engine is unstable at idle. This is clearly audible: changes in speed become obvious. In addition, engine vibration may occur, which has an extremely negative effect on its operation. As a result, the time resource of its operation is reduced.
• When the gear is switched off, the engine stops completely. This problem is especially noticeable at traffic lights, and as a result it is dangerous.
• The speed is unstable (randomly decreases or increases). “Dancing” sounds appear.
• After starting, the unit “refuses” to operate at higher speeds (that is, you press the gas pedal, but there is no reaction).
• When some electrical appliances are turned on: heater, air conditioner, long-range headlights or fog lights, the engine speed decreases.

Such problems occur as a whole when the situation is neglected. Even if one of the above appears, measures must be taken.

Regardless of what caused the breakdown, there is no point in delaying diagnosis and replacement; this type of breakdown significantly affects the operation of the engine, which is not for nothing called the “iron heart” of the car. So, what could be the reason:

1. The needle guides have been erased.
2. The wire inside the sensor has broken.

Fuel pump problem

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Yuri Petrovich (04/29/2012 - 23:03) wrote:

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hip (29.04.2012 - 17:29) wrote:

Did you open the fuel pump again, or did you just throw away the plus from the battery?

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Nikittaa (05/01/2012 - 09:48) wrote:

Yes, in principle there are no other options.

What do we have according to the condition? 1. The BN always turns normally and perfectly, but very rarely does not turn. 2. When it doesn’t turn in the first option, +12 helps directly.

We have the same fuel pump, the difference is in the power supplied. The first thing that pops into your head. At the moment when the BN stops “obliquely”, there is not enough standard power for scrolling. When the direct wire is from the battery, then there are no parasitic connections and voltage losses in the wiring, direct power becomes sufficient for cranking. Until next time, when BN becomes “slanty.”

I think you can remove the BN and inspect it thoroughly and clean it. Or keep the battery cable on hand, just in case. Because of such a trifle, it’s somehow a pity to change the BN.

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landniver (02.05.2012 - 08:02) wrote:

The fuse blows if the permissible current rating is exceeded. If it does not crash immediately, then it is not a short circuit, of course, but an excess “on the verge” of the nominal value. Because of this, it heats up and eventually burns out. In the case of the ZK, it would burn immediately.

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Inspar (05/01/2012 - 01:21) wrote:

hip (29.04.2012 - 17:29) wrote:

Did you open the fuel pump again, or did you just throw away the plus from the battery?

Well, I didn’t open the fuel pump, but only the cover that is attached to the body

landniver (02.05.2012 - 08:02) wrote:

But for me, nothing heats up or crashes, it just doesn’t want to download at some point and that’s all

Inspar (05/01/2012 - 12:58) wrote:

Nikittaa (05/01/2012 - 09:48) wrote:

Yes, in principle there are no other options.

What do we have according to the condition? 1. The BN always turns normally and perfectly, but very rarely does not turn. 2. When it doesn’t turn in the first option, +12 helps directly.

We have the same fuel pump, the difference is in the power supplied. The first thing that pops into your head. At the moment when the BN stops “obliquely”, there is not enough standard power for scrolling. When the direct wire is from the battery, then there are no parasitic connections and voltage losses in the wiring, direct power becomes sufficient for cranking. Until next time, when BN becomes “slanty.”

I think you can remove the BN and inspect it thoroughly and clean it. Or keep the battery cable on hand, just in case. Because of such a trifle, it’s somehow a pity to change the BN.

Thanks for the advice, I thought so too, that maybe something had oxidized or dirt had gotten in, and in a certain position it refused to turn

Street2010 (05/02/2012 - 07:25) wrote:

while driving there were no complaints, but when you turn the key it doesn’t pump and that’s it, it only helps + directly

How to identify a problem with the idle air control (IAC) on a Chevrolet Niva

The most common causes of failure of the idle air regulator (IAC) 21203 - 1148300 on the Chevrolet Niva -2123, VAZ 2131 (NIVA) and VAZ - 2120 "Nadezhda" modifications.

Symptoms of IAC malfunctions are in many ways similar to TPS (throttle position sensor) malfunctions, but in the second case, most often the “CHECK ENGINE” lamp clearly indicates a TPS malfunction.

Malfunctions in the operation of the idle speed controller (IAC) 21203 - 1148300 are difficult to identify, because the idle speed sensor on the Chevrolet Niva - 2123, VAZ 2131 (NIVA) and VAZ - 2120 "Nadezhda" of their modification is an actuator and is not covered by a general control system, and if there is a malfunction in its operation, the “Check-Engine” indicator light does not signal.

But some characteristic symptoms suggest that the idle speed sensor is faulty, for example:

— unstable idle speed;

— when setting the gearshift lever to the neutral position, the engine stops involuntarily;

— idle speed decreases noticeably when other devices (heater, headlights) are turned on;

— involuntary increase or decrease in speed, regardless of the engine operating mode;

— when a cold engine starts, difficulties arise in reaching higher speeds.

There are several ways to check the idle speed sensor on the Chevrolet Niva - 2123, VAZ 2131 (NIVA) and VAZ - 2120 "Nadezhda" modifications.

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Hi all! My name is Mikhail, now I’ll tell you a story about how I managed to exchange my two-wheeler for a 2010 Camry. It all started with the fact that I began to be wildly irritated by the breakdowns of the two-wheeler, it seemed like nothing serious was broken, but damn it, there were so many little things that really started to irritate me. This is where the idea arose that it was time to change the car to a foreign car. The choice fell on the melting Camry of the tenth years.

1. Use a standard gear motor from a VAZ 2110
2. Use a stepper electric damper drive from a VAZ 2170 (Priora)

Why do you need a properly set idle speed?

When it comes to a car, the concept of idling can be attributed to the operation of the engine when the gear is off or when the clutch pedal is depressed. In such cases, the engine runs without load, that is, there is no transmission of torque from the power plant to the drive wheels. For different engines, idle speed can range from 600 to 1000 rpm.

If their indicator is less than the recommended value, the engine will stop when the clutch pedal is pressed. An increase in their number, in addition to a significant increase in gasoline consumption, leads to accelerated wear of engine parts. Therefore, it is so important to maintain their number in the recommended range.

Idle speed adjustment is carried out by several components and assemblies installed on the vehicle. These include an injector, a fuel pump, and various sensors, which can be mechanical or electronic. This also includes the throttle valve, fuel pressure regulator and some other devices.

The number of revolutions is greatly influenced by the opening angle of the throttle valve, which regulates the amount of air entering the engine power system. The idle air valve also takes part in mixture formation, which is needed to provide air supply bypassing the throttle valve. In some cases, an increase in their number may be caused by an incorrectly adjusted gas pedal drive.

Location of fuse and relay blocks Niva 4x4

The main part of the fuses are located in the Niva's interior under the panel to the left of the steering column. Total 4 blocks:

1 — engine control system fuse box; 2 — windshield wiper relay; 3 — fuse blocks; 4 — relay block of the engine control system.

The fourth relay block is located above the gas pedal.

Adjusting the idle speed of a Chevrolet Niva

The idle air regulator is a special device that regulates the air supply. It is made in the form of a cone-shaped valve, which is driven by an electric motor. The ECU is activated, which determines the required channel opening level.

The Niva Chevrolet idle speed control is non-separable, therefore, if there are problems with its operation, it must be completely replaced. Dismantling is somewhat difficult, since to remove the regulator it is also necessary to disconnect the throttle assembly.

Procedure for removing the device.

To remove this device, you need to stock up on a small set of tools, consisting of a 13mm socket wrench, a screwdriver and pliers.

1. Place the vehicle on a flat surface and secure it with the parking brake. If there is any doubt about the stability of the car, you need to install wheel chocks.
2. After this, you need to disconnect the battery terminals.
3. We unscrew the fastening nuts and studs that secure the receiver to the throttle valve. In this case, there is no need to disconnect the pipes of the cooling and crankcase ventilation system.
4. Disconnect the terminals from the wires
5. Using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the valves on the throttle valve
6. When the device mount is unscrewed, you can remove it from its seat. Usually, you can get the O-ring along with it. But, in some cases, it may get stuck in the damper well.
7. In this case, it is necessary to carefully dismantle it.

But sometimes the device may be working properly, but problems in operation are associated with its clogging. In this case, you can try cleaning it with carburetor cleaner. Typically, this method helps to revive a device that has no visible mechanical damage. But this measure does not guarantee a 100% result, but is only temporary, which allows you to get to the nearest service station or store with spare parts.

The idle speed of the Chevrolet Niva may be incorrectly adjusted if the sensor has increased travel between the valve and the supporting surface. When measured with a caliper, this distance should not exceed 23 millimeters.

Compliance with these parameters is necessary in order to ensure correct installation and not damage the throttle body.

Before installation, the seat must be cleaned. You can also lubricate the O-ring with engine oil to make it easier to put it in place.

Throttle sensor.

The Niva Chevrolet throttle sensor can also affect the smooth operation of the engine at idle. This component controls the amount of air mixture that enters the cylinders. The main task of this part is to make this quantity optimal for high-quality ignition.

Car differences

Lada Priora and VAZ 2110 are of course identical cars, but they also have differences.
Car enthusiasts often find it difficult to decide which model to give preference to. But in any case, the Priora is a more modern car. Thus, the electric power steering gives greater comfort when driving a Lada Priora than driving a ten. In dozens, power steering was introduced only in 2006, and the VAZ-21104 immediately came from the factory with an electric power steering wheel. If someone comes across a ten with electric power steering, then know that it was installed by someone in a car service center. A feature of the Priora steering is a large amount of play in the steering wheel, which takes some getting used to. At high speed, you have to “catch the car on the road,” as it were. Therefore, many drivers at the time gave preference to the VAZ 2110, which behaves more confidently at speed. But still, when cornering and when driving in a zigzag manner, the VAZ 21104’s movement is more comfortable and confident than that of its predecessor. The Priora behaves more dynamically at speed if an appropriate brace is installed between the supports of the front struts. In this case, drivers note improved handling.

The engines of both cars are reliable and simple. The Priora's engine has superior technical characteristics, but the eight and sixteen valve units do not differ much in the traction properties of both cars. Some will say one or the other is better, but in general we can say that they are all the same.

There is a little less transmission noise in the Prior and the cabin is probably a little quieter. But most likely this is due to the fact that the developers did a good job on sound insulation in the VAZ-21104.

And yet, driving in a Prior is quieter and more comfortable. The size of the car interiors is absolutely the same. The seats and all the plastics fit from one car to another. True, the seats on the Prior are a little higher. This fact will please small drivers and disappoint giants.

Priora at one time enjoyed enormous success in the post-Soviet space. In the Caucasian republics it was the best-selling car. In general, it is impossible to say with certainty which car is better and which is worse. Each person makes his own choice based on personal experience.