Sometimes, especially in winter, the dashboard “freezes” in domestic classics. Lights do not light up, some or even all appliances do not work, the battery refuses to charge, although the car starts and runs.
With warming up the interior or tapping the panel with your fist. Usually, this problem disappears and everything gradually turns on, but the consequence of this is a discharged battery, loss of time due to warming up the car and lost nerves.
The reason for this disgrace is poor contact of the terminals with the instrument board due to the fact that they are not connected through soldering, as on all machines, but through copper rivets.
Over time, oxides form on the metal, and at low temperatures frost also forms, the metal is deformed and the current cannot break through this barrier. Therefore, many drivers solder these connections with a regular home soldering iron, which we will do as well.
First, we need to remove the instrument panel from the car panel. To do this, unscrew the mounting bolt, pull out the radio if it is installed there instead of the air ducts, and disconnect the heater motor activation key.
Use a screwdriver to pry up the lower right edge of the panel and press it out of its seat.
Since plastic clips are in the way on the left edge, we move the panel a little to the right and perform the operation with a screwdriver on the left side.
Carefully remove the block as far as the steering column allows.
Then we crawl into the niche with our hand and unfasten the 3 chips from the terminals, remove the cotter pin and disconnect the daily odometer drive cable, unscrew the speedometer cable, and by moving it to the right we take out the entire instrument cluster.
Since the plastic contact chips are attached to the board with aluminum rivets, we drill them out with a drill with a drill bit 2-2.5 mm thick. This must be done carefully so as not to scratch the tracks and not to carry chips inside the panel.
What kind of lighting do you prefer?
Built-in Chandelier
The second half of the rivet remains in the housing and can be removed either by removing the light bulbs or drilling a small hole in the corner of the housing. Only then should this hole be sealed with sealant to prevent dust from entering.
So, let's start soldering the contacts, treat them with fine-grained sandpaper if necessary, apply flux and solder in 1-2 directions, or in a circle.
You can also solder the connections with the nuts, having previously tightened them, and the junctions of the diodes.
Soldering areas can be treated with a special varnish for reliability.
We put the chips in place in the same way as they were originally and fix them with rivets, if possible, or with ordinary galvanized self-tapping screws with a flat head 10-15 mm long.
Now we put the panel back in the order of removal. We also prudently inspect the wiring harnesses and chips to see if there are any short circuits or contact oxidation, and check the ground.
Before reinstalling the panel, thoroughly wipe and inspect it. The resulting connections can also be further tested with a multimeter or an indicator lamp connected to the battery.
Why doesn't the dashboard lighting of the VAZ 2107 work?
5. Disconnect the wires from the fan switch terminals. The top wire is blue-black, the middle wire is yellow-blue, and the bottom wire is red.
Expert opinion
It-Technology, Electrical power and electronics specialist
Ask questions to the “Specialist for modernization of energy generation systems”
The backlight of the VAZ 2107 devices does not work ~ The resulting connections can also be additionally tested with a multimeter or an indicator lamp connected to the battery. Ask, I'm in touch!
Devices on VAZ 2107 do not work
When the instruments and warning lights on the instrument panel stop working, the driver of any car, including the VAZ-2107, becomes uncomfortable in the cabin of his car, since he will not have enough information that the instrument panel provides, as when starting the engine , and while driving.
The first thing drivers usually do is check fuse F10 (10A) , located in the mounting block and the condition of its terminals. If the fuse has not blown, then the cause of the failure of the instrument panel will have to be looked for in it itself. Therefore, we remove the instrument panel and in the left corner we look for two double black wires that are attached to the car body. This is “ground”, we check whether there is good contact and whether the fastening nut is tightened.
At the same time, immediately see if the pads are completely recessed, and you can also disconnect them and check the condition of the contacts. It happens that during installation they were bent, but due to vibrations they move away from each other and the instrument panel stops working.
But the most common reason for instrument panel failure is that the pins are attached to the instrument panel circuit board using rivets, and this connection is not reliable. As a result, the contact is lost, and the instrument panel stops working completely or works periodically, then turns on and off. This is especially evident in winter, until the interior of the car warms up, the shield does not work, and when a certain positive temperature is reached, due to the expansion of the metal of the rivets, contact is restored.
To eliminate this reason, you will have to drill out the aluminum rivets that hold the switching board and get to the connectors of the pads. Considering that the connector blades are riveted with copper rivets and not soldered, this is why contact is lost, which can be restored using an ordinary soldering iron. Then this disease of the instrument panel of the VAZ-2107 car will disappear forever. When assembling, you can use self-tapping screws instead of drilled aluminum rivets.
The instrument panel stopped working, doesn't show anything, the generator also stopped working, the fan stopped working, everything that works from the ignition switch, I looked at the lock, even just checked it with wires, still no, also the fog lights connected to the positive wire of the ignition switch also don't work, the fuses are all working, the car starts but works only on suction and then it troits.
Sorry for such a slow response. If your car has an alarm system, this may be the reason; you need to look for a relay that opens +12v at the ignition switch. In any case, it is better to check the wiring completely. A short circuit in the generator is also possible, but in this case the battery got very hot and discharged quickly.
Good day! Could the battery lose its charge due to poor contact on the pins to the printed circuit board? My devices don’t work in cold weather and the handbrake light comes on when the handbrake is lowered and goes out when it’s raised. As soon as the temperature in the car warms up, everything falls into place and works normally.
Nurzhan, I found the reason, I have the same problem, I planted the battery, rummaged through all the circuits, it doesn’t work, and the mine is burning at full heat, I only found the instrument relay listed above, cleaned it - zero effect, I also found a broken wire from the reverse frog, I remember from his neighbor was missing, maybe a signal?
Good afternoon, can you please tell me the reason why the instrument lighting disappeared on the VAZ 2104, checking the lamps, contacts, fuses, and then I changed the heater radiator and then it disappeared, what else?
Please tell me, I have a VAZ 2105 injector when I turn off the engine and take the key out of the ignition, the instrument panel remains under voltage, the battery light is on, the oil light is dim, the temperature and charge indicator arrows partially go down but remain in the working position.
On the classics this is solved by soldering the panel
How to solder a socket correctly
Good day. Please tell me what could be the problem in my car 2107, in the cold, first the turn signals failed, then the entire instrument panel, and the battery stopped charging, already change the fuse block, changed the turn signal relay, checked the ignition switch for serviceability and the instrument panel is all working.
And I changed the alternator voltage regulator relay, the car itself works fine
The sensors of device 2107 do not show when it is cold, but when it warms up everything shows, please tell me
Source
The most common breakdown
Before digging into the inside of the car, check how securely the ground wire leading to the front panel is secured. A restless passenger in front often simply pulls him out of his place with his feet. To prevent the situation from repeating itself, after fastening it is worth insulating the wire from reach.
Its signs are very characteristic:
If the fuse is intact , this is not a reason to immediately leave it alone. It would be a good idea to remove it and check the contacts: if the fuse is live, but the terminals are oxidized, the circuit will be interrupted, and the device will stop showing any signs of life.
The next weak link : It is the ignition relay. It is located to the left of the steering column, fixed on a pin, so to speak, upside down. You need to remove it and try to make direct contact with the wires. If there are obvious signs of revival on the instrument panel, it immediately becomes clear that the time has come to change the relay.
The instrument panel of the VAZ 2107 does not work
Hello everyone, today I would like to look at the main reasons why the instruments on a VAZ 2107 do not work. You will probably agree that when the instrument cluster does not work, some kind of discomfort is created and the driver does not feel very comfortable.
Moreover, the instrument cluster of the VAZ 2107 car provides a lot of important information that is needed both when starting the car and when driving. Well, let's move on to the most important thing, namely, finding the reasons for the failure of the instrument panel.
So, the first thing you need to do is check the fuse that controls the tidy. On the VAZ 2107 this is fuse F10 (10A) which is located in the mounting block. If necessary, this fuse must be replaced.
If you checked the fuse and it is ok, then the problem is in the instrument panel itself. First you need to remove the instrument cluster and check the two black wires that are attached to the car body.
As you may have guessed, this is a mass; you need to check whether the contact is seated well and how well the fastening nut is tightened. You also need to check the contact blocks.
The most common reason why the instrument panel does not work is the pins, which are attached with rivets, and such a connection is not very reliable and due to vibrations and other shaking, the contact disappears, and the instrument panel of the VAZ 2107 car stops working or works intermittently.
This is especially noticeable at sub-zero temperatures while the seven-cold panel in the cabin does not work, and after warming up, when the metal expands a little, the contacts are restored again and the tidy starts working again.
But as you understand, this is not an option to drive like this. In order to fix this, you need to remove the aluminum rivets that hold the board and get to the connectors of the pads.
Confronting attackers
Due to the fact that the battery is not cheap, the issue of protecting the VAZ 2107 battery from theft is quite acute. It’s not difficult to open the hood of a “classic,” which is why thieves are keeping a close eye on the “Sevens.”
Experts offer several options for preventing theft.
- Secure parking or secure garage.
- installation .
- Installation of the hood lock. Let’s be clear right away: few people take this step. Welding work is required, the appearance deteriorates, and it is quite easy for a professional to pick the lock.
- Take the battery with you. Labor-intensive, inconvenient, but effective. On the other hand, if the car is left for a short time, it is defenseless: they can even remove the battery in a supermarket parking lot.
- Reliable battery fixation. Almost the most popular method. The fasteners are secured with a secret that prevents dismantling and makes theft difficult. In combination with an alarm it is a very effective technique.
But all experts agree that the most reliable protection for the VAZ 2107 battery against theft is comprehensive. A combination of multidirectional measures will give the best results!
The instrument panel does not light up on the VAZ 2107: causes and troubleshooting methods
If the instrument panel on a VAZ 2107 does not light up, then this does not have a negative impact on the operation of the car during daylight hours. However, very strong inconveniences arise at dusk. It is very difficult to drive a car at night if the dashboard lights are not working. We will consider in detail what could be the reasons for the malfunction of the instrument lighting on a VAZ 2107 car, as well as ways to eliminate them.
Replacing scales
The standard dials on the instrument panel are black, and the numbers on them are faded. This design, in principle, looked good twenty years ago. But the instrument panel clearly does not correspond to modern trends. There are quite a lot of photographs on the Internet of options that car enthusiasts made with their own hands. In most cases, owners prefer white circles with black numbers. This option looks more “sporty”. In addition, it is easier to highlight.
The only thing to remember is that when working with dashboard parts, you need to be extremely careful. All spare parts are quite fragile and very easy to break. Recovery will take a lot of time.
What are the reasons for the dashboard backlight not working on the VAZ 2107?
The situation when, when the instrument panel backlight is turned on, it does not work, is definitely unpleasant. If this happens, then it is necessary to fix the breakdown as quickly as possible, since operating a car at night is not at all uncommon, but a common occurrence. If the backlight of the VAZ 2107 dashboard does not light up, this may be due to the following factors:
- Faulty incandescent lamps. This rarely happens, however, due to the fact that from the factory the lighting of the panel is realized through the use of incandescent lamps, their burnout periodically occurs. The problem can be fixed by replacing the lighting elements, or better yet, installing LEDs. To make a replacement, you will need to dismantle the instrument panel. This is not difficult to do, but it will take a lot of time to disassemble the shield. The panel contains lighting elements, which must be replaced in order to restore the functionality of the VAZ 2107 instrument panel lighting. Before replacing, you should first check the serviceability of each lamp. The design of the shield uses 4 main lighting elements, which are responsible for lighting, as well as additional ones that act as an indication. If you had to disassemble the panel, it is recommended to immediately perform its tuning.
These are the main reasons for the malfunction of the instrument panel lighting on the VAZ 2107. In addition to the main faults, there are additional ones, for example, damage to the power cable. If you have a multimeter in your arsenal, then identifying such a malfunction will not be difficult. Even if you don’t have a multimeter, it’s not at all necessary to contact a car service to fix the problem; you can use a probe with a light bulb.
What lamps to install in the instrument panel for lighting
One of the common causes of malfunction is burnout of incandescent lamps. To restore the functionality of the tidy lighting, you will need to disassemble it and replace the lamps. Due to the fact that the illumination of the instrument panel of VAZs is realized through the use of conventional incandescent lamps, many car owners seek to modernize this design. Let's find out which lamps to install in the tidy to restore the lighting functionality.
- If it is necessary to replace the incandescent lighting elements responsible for the backlight, then you will need light bulbs of the AMN 12-3-1 (T3W) type. These are ordinary filament bulbs that are installed in the dashboard of VAZs from the factory.
- If it is necessary to replace indicator lights, then type A 12-1.2 elements are used.
If there is a problem with the incandescent lamps of the VAZ 2107 tidy burning out, then it makes no sense to buy the same elements, since their main advantage is their low price. However, they have a short service life, and their glow quality is poor. That is why it is recommended to immediately install LED lamps in the backlight of the seven’s instrument panel.
This is interesting! If you change the incandescent lamp indicating the battery charge, you will need to solder a resistor of the appropriate value to the LED. If you simply replace the halogen charge indicator with an LED lighting element, the battery will not charge correctly.
As can be seen from the material, it is not at all difficult to troubleshoot the backlight of the instrument panel of the seven. To do this, it is necessary to properly approach the identification of the causes of the breakdown and carry out troubleshooting. If there is a desire, the tidy can be tuned not only by screwing in LED lamps instead of halogens, but also by adding LED strips to the dashboard, which will improve the quality of lighting of the dashboard and add individuality.
Source
Indicator light
As can be seen from the diagram, the charging system involves a large number of components and each of them can cause poor charging or its absence. To monitor the battery charging process, the car's dashboard is equipped with a control light.
If the system is in good working order, the control signal turns on after the factory. But when the engine enters operating mode, the VAZ 2107 battery charging light does not light up. This means that the battery's energy supply is replenished from the generator. At the same time, the needle on the voltmeter moves to the green sector.
Signs of a battery not charging:
- The VAZ 2107 battery charge arrow twitches.
- The control signal does not go out. In some cases, the VAZ 2107 battery light blinks.
- The voltmeter needle does not go to the green zone after starting the engine.
- When the engine is running, the voltage on the battery should remain around 13.9.
- The permissible deviation in any direction does not exceed 0.3 V. Undercharging of the VAZ 2107 battery within these limits is not yet dangerous.
A voltage drop to 12 V says: the generator is not charging! lamp is dimly lit - the battery is undercharged.
The backlight of the VAZ-2107 instrument panel does not light up (injector, carburetor): reasons, repair
Hello everyone, today I would like to look at the main reasons why the instruments on a VAZ 2107 do not work. You will probably agree that when the instrument cluster does not work, some kind of discomfort is created and the driver does not feel very comfortable.
Moreover, the instrument cluster of the VAZ 2107 car provides a lot of important information that is needed both when starting the car and when driving.
The backlight does not light up
Well, let's move on to the most important thing, namely finding the reasons in the event of a failure of the instrument panel. So, the first thing you need to do is check the fuse that controls the tidy.
On the VAZ 2107 this is fuse F10 (10A) which is located in the mounting block. If necessary, this fuse must be replaced.
If you checked the fuse and it is ok, then the problem is in the instrument panel itself. First you need to remove the instrument cluster and check the two black wires that are attached to the car body. As you may have guessed, this is a mass; you need to check whether the contact is seated well and how well the fastening nut is tightened. You also need to check the contact blocks.
The most common reason why the instrument panel does not work is the pins, which are attached with rivets, and such a connection is not very reliable and due to vibrations and other shaking, the contact disappears, and the instrument panel of the VAZ 2107 car stops working or works intermittently.
This is especially noticeable at sub-zero temperatures while the seven-cold panel in the cabin does not work, and after warming up, when the metal expands a little, the contacts are restored again and the tidy starts working again. But as you understand, this is not an option to drive like this.
In order to fix this, you need to remove the aluminum rivets that hold the board and get to the connectors of the pads.
Then, using a soldering iron, you can restore the contacts. And after that, you can forget about the disease of the instrument cluster of the VAZ 2107. And yes, by the way, instead of the rivets that were drilled out, you can screw in self-tapping screws. Well, that's all for this, if you had other reasons, then write in the comments. Bye everyone.
Removal
1. We prepare the car for operations (see “Preparing the car for maintenance and repair”).
2. Disconnect the wire from the negative terminal of the battery (see “Battery - removal and installation”).
3. Using a thin screwdriver, remove the two plugs for the screws securing the shield.
4. Using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the two screws.
5. Disconnect the wires from the fan switch terminals. The top wire is blue-black, the middle wire is yellow-blue, and the bottom wire is red.
Advice. To avoid injury from the protruding plugs of the switch when disconnecting the speedometer drive cable, we recommend removing the switch by squeezing its latches.
6. Moving the instrument panel as far as possible to the left, unscrew the knurled nut securing the speedometer cable by hand and disconnect the cable.
What to do if the instrument panel on a VAZ 2109 does not light up
When the instrument panel on a VAZ 2109 does not light up, this is one of the common malfunctions of this unit. To fix a problem, you first have to find the cause of its occurrence.
Tidying up nine
Types of panels
Instrument panels on the VAZ 2109 are of at least three types:
- Low panel;
- High panel;
- Electronic panel on nines with Europanel.
Europanel
On versions with a low panel, failure of the entire panel is extremely rare. This is due to the fact that here the speedometer and econometer are equipped with mechanical drives. Therefore, it is unlikely that they will fail along with the electrical component.
Dashboards with a high panel do not have an econometer, but the speedometer is also based on a mechanical cable drive.
Why doesn't it light up?
If suddenly electrical appliances and indicator lamps on the dashboard stop working, certain actions must be taken.
- First, remove the cover of the mounting block and make sure that the fuse is intact. The fuse markings are located on the inner surface of the cover. You should look for fuse F16 or F5, depending on the year of manufacture of your VAZ 2109.
- If the fuse is intact, be sure to check whether the contacts of the fuse you are looking for have not oxidized. It is not uncommon for shields to fail due to broken contact.
- Check if there is power to the dashboard. To do this, you will need a warning light and the ignition on. Disconnect connector X4 in the mounting block and check for voltage at pin 3. The disadvantage of the VAZ 2109 design is that when it rains, the mounting block immediately becomes wet. This causes oxidation of the contacts in the pads, which causes the electrics to stop working. Sometimes not only the contact is oxidized, but also the board of the Nine mounting block.
If none of the above actions yielded results, you will have to be disappointed. After all, now you need to remove the dashboard and check the condition of the wiring, contacts, and negative connections. Here it is better to trust a professional electrician or set aside a whole day to troubleshoot problems yourself. There is no need to rush here.
Where did the backlight go?
Popular faults
If we talk about the dashboard of VAZ 2109 cars, then they are characterized by certain problems. We will tell you about them, and also tell you how to act correctly in a given situation.
| Fault type | Your actions |
| Gasoline level and temperature indicator does not work | In most percent of cases, this situation occurs due to breakdown of devices, sensors of these devices, or an open circuit of the power supply. Therefore, first check the circuit for continuity, make sure that the fuses have not blown. If this is not the case, check whether the gas level and temperature sensors are working. Only if none of the actions allowed you to get rid of the breakdown, you can begin to replace the devices themselves. No options, the problem lies in them |
| When the fuel tank is full, the arrow points to zero | If you have worked on the fuel level sensor, the fault most likely lies with you. When manipulating this device, the float limiter is often knocked down. Either the limiter is installed incorrectly or adjusted, causing the resistor winding to end. To resolve the problem, remove the sensor and then adjust the limiter again |
| The fuel gauge needle regularly jumps and ends up at zero | Here, most likely, the resistor has weak contact with the current collector. Another possible option is that there is a break in the resistor. To resolve this situation, we recommend replacing the hot level sensor with a new measuring device |
| The fuel level lamp is constantly on | If this lamp is constantly on, there is probably a short circuit in the fuel level sensor supply wiring to ground. Another option is that the sensor’s flexible bus is shorted to the fuel intake pipe. You will have to disassemble the device to align the bus and get rid of the resulting short circuit |
| Indicator lamps do not work on the dashboard | There is a high probability that the light bulbs have simply burned out, or they are poorly held in their seats due to loose contact. Replace the bulbs, but first try tightening the contacts. Traces of oxidation may be detected. When cleaned, the light bulbs can work normally again. Also, do not exclude the possibility of wiring breakage or oxidation of the tips of the supply wiring. Try going over the wires with a tester, cleaning the contacts if necessary. |
| The speedometer does not work, the flexible shaft is noisy | In such a situation, you will have to change the speedometer drive cable or replace the entire speedometer assembly. But before you bother so much, check that the fastening nuts of the tips are tightened correctly and properly. The flexible shaft may make noise during operation due to deformation or violation of the permissible bending of the shell of less than 10 centimeters during installation |
Last resort - complete dismantling
The instrument panel of the VAZ 2109 is not so complicated that you cannot figure it out on your own. But in the absence of experience, it is better to entrust the repair to specialists, or to enlist the support of a partner who understands this matter.
Possible damage to the tachometer and methods of elimination
The main reason for device failure is the use of unsuitable high-voltage wires. This nuance, among other things, appears mainly as a result of conversion to silicone. Due to the use of the latter, the needle on the device can twitch.
If we talk about malfunctions, if the tachometer fails to work, the process of finding them may vary depending on the type of motor.
- Carburetor. On such a motor, 3 wires are connected to the device, 2 are power, the 3rd is connected to the coil. To determine the cause of damage to the measuring device, it is necessary to approach the control panel (rear part) and disconnect the terminals included in the device. Next, using 3 other working wires, the device must be directly connected to the battery and coil. When starting the unit, the device should begin to function if the cause is the circuit. If this does not happen, you need to look for a problem in the ignition or the device itself.
- Injection engine. In this situation, the tachometer connection diagram is different. There are 4 wires used here, 2 for power, 1 is directed to the electrical control unit, another 1 is directed to the crankshaft sensor. A fairly acceptable option would be to perform computer diagnostics. In addition, it’s time to try checking the position on the contact connectors or install a new DPKV.
The instrument panel does not light up on the VAZ 2107: causes and troubleshooting methods
If the instrument panel on a VAZ 2107 does not light up, then this does not have a negative impact on the operation of the car during daylight hours. However, very strong inconveniences arise at dusk.
It is very difficult to drive a car at night if the dashboard lights are not working.
We will consider in detail what could be the reasons for the malfunction of the instrument lighting on a VAZ 2107 car, as well as ways to eliminate them.
What are the reasons for the dashboard backlight not working on the VAZ 2107?
The situation when, when the instrument panel backlight is turned on, it does not work, is definitely unpleasant. If this happens, then it is necessary to fix the breakdown as quickly as possible, since operating a car at night is not at all uncommon, but a common occurrence. If the backlight of the VAZ 2107 dashboard does not light up, this may be due to the following factors:
- Faulty incandescent lamps. This rarely happens, however, due to the fact that from the factory the lighting of the panel is realized through the use of incandescent lamps, their burnout periodically occurs. The problem can be fixed by replacing the lighting elements, or better yet, installing LEDs. To make a replacement, you will need to dismantle the instrument panel. This is not difficult to do, but it will take a lot of time to disassemble the shield. The panel contains lighting elements, which need to be replaced in order to restore the functionality of the VAZ 2107 instrument panel lighting. Before replacing, you should first check the serviceability of each lamp. The design of the shield uses 4 main lighting elements, which are responsible for lighting, as well as additional ones that act as an indication. If you had to disassemble the panel, it is recommended to immediately perform its tuning.
Appearance of the standard instrument panel light bulb of the VAZ 2107 - Brightness control - the fault may be hidden in the part that is responsible for adjusting the backlight intensity. Although this part fails extremely rarely, its malfunction cannot be ruled out, especially if it has been established that the incandescent lamps are in good working order and do not need to be replaced. The light brightness control is located directly on the right side of the steering wheel near the headlight range control. If diagnostics have shown that this particular part is the reason that the backlight does not light, then it should be replaced.
- Fuses - the search for the reason why there is no instrument lighting on the seven should start directly with the fuses. These elements protect the circuit from voltage surges, and as soon as a large current flows in the circuit or a short circuit occurs, the fuse link blows. If such a malfunction occurs, replace the fuse and check the power circuit.
- Absence or poor contact at the point where the chip connects to the power wire. The reason for the lack of contact may be that the chip is not tightly pressed to the terminal block of the instrument panel. Poor contact occurs when contacts become oxidized. You can fix such breakdowns yourself by cleaning the contacts from oxides.
What else to check
- Voltage regulator;
- Generator rectifier unit;
- Diodes;
- Generator for broken windings;
- Generator brush assembly;
- Contacts on the terminals of the generator, mounting block.
A malfunction of any of these elements leads to the fact that the charging system is inoperative and the VAZ 2107 battery is not charged.
Let's continue... Diodes are checked with a test light or multimeter. If one of them is broken, the entire rectifier will have to be replaced.
To check the stator winding you need the same device. The resistance between the fasteners of the rectifier unit is measured. If there are no contacts between them, you need to replace either the winding or the entire generator.
The generator itself often fails due to wear on the brushes. To check them, you need to remove the brush assembly and measure the length of the elements. If it is 5 mm or less, the brushes must be replaced.
Almost all of the above system components are replaced when they fail, since they cannot be repaired. Only some of the generator problems can be repaired, but this can only be done by a qualified auto electrician.
The worst thing is if problems with recharging occur while on the road. Without recharging the battery, it will eventually run out completely. And even if you manage to find the cause of the breakdown and eliminate it, you will no longer be able to start the engine with the starter. It will be possible to start a VAZ-2017 with a dead battery only from a tug or pusher.
All instruments and sensors on the instrument panel have failed
After purchasing my VAZ 2106, literally a couple of days later, the following trouble awaited me.
When the ignition was turned on, neither the emergency oil pressure light nor the battery charging came on, and the gasoline level sensor did not work.
At first I thought that the battery terminal had simply come loose, but then I checked and everything turned out to be normal. Just in case, I decided to turn the starter, and as it turned out, everything worked, it turned and the car started up normally.
But even after this, none of the instruments and sensors worked; by the way, the tachometer also stood still and the needle did not budge. This was the picture with the ignition on and even the engine running, all the instruments froze tightly:
I decided to check all the fuses, since I simply could not see any other reason for what was happening. Since the location of the fuses in the mounting block of the VAZ 2106 was not familiar to me, I decided to check everything at random. I took the fuses out of the block one by one and inspected them.
It was already quite dark, and not at first glance all the veins on each fuse were intact. In the morning I checked everything again and saw that on one side, barely noticeable, the wire had burned out. The photo below shows the fuse that is responsible for the functionality of the sensors and devices of the VAZ 2106.
After I replaced it with a working one, all the sensors and arrows started working and everything fell into place.
So, if someone has a similar problem, or this is your first time encountering this, keep in mind that the fuse, which is shown in the middle photo in this article, is to blame. I hope that my experience will be at least useful to someone.
