Removing the exhaust manifold of a VAZ 2110 8 valves injector – Replacing the exhaust manifold of a VAZ 2110

In some cases, when starting the engine, smoke and a gas smell may appear from under the hood. Most often, this indicates that the exhaust manifold may have burned out, and on the VAZ 2110 it needs to be replaced, since the metal has burned out. And here you should not delay replacement or repair, since all these problems can adversely affect the operation of the engine as a whole. You can replace the part yourself; there is nothing difficult here.

Usually the burnout site is practically invisible, but with the engine running you need to open the hood of the car. And then consider where the exhaust gases come from; if they pass with a whistle, then they go past the exhaust pipe, and go through the burnt-out place.

Replacing the exhaust manifold gasket of a VAZ 2110

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The gasket is burnt out. Does anyone know a link that describes how to replace it yourself (or someone will tell you so in detail). otherwise I have no idea. what and how to shoot. and in what order

(Do I need to remove the receiver separately and change the gasket there? Do I need to remove the ramp? Do I need to disconnect the intake pipe from the exhaust manifold? And change the gasket there)

those yes and in what order. better in great detail. And what incidents can happen. and what tools and gaskets are needed. (and which pads are better to buy)

Sergg_

, I changed it to 99. I simply unscrewed everything that was in the way and then screwed it back. In fact, they are now selling good repair books with photographs that describe in detail, step by step, how to change something.

Sashka Khalturin2

, is this your avatar photo?

Step-by-step instruction

Before starting work, remove the negative terminal from the battery.

1. First we need to remove the heat shield. It is secured with three nuts for a thirteen head.

Before unscrewing, the nuts must be cleaned and sprayed with penetrating lubricant.

2. After unscrewing the nuts, remove the casing.

3. Clean the exhaust manifold mounting bolts and spray with penetrating lubricant.

4. Disconnect the lambda probe connector.

5. Spray with penetrating lubricant and unscrew the two nuts securing the exhaust pipe.

Most often it is the stud that comes out, not the nut. There's still a spring there. Well, that’s okay, we’ll look at this further in the instructions.

6. After unscrewing the intake pipe, move it to the side and plug it with a rag.

7. Relieve the coolant pressure. To do this, unscrew and tighten the cap of the expansion tank.

8. A coolant channel passes through the lower exhaust manifold mounting studs. If the nut and stud are unscrewed, the coolant must be drained.

9. Unscrew the nuts securing the exhaust manifold.

If the lower nuts are unscrewed together with the stud, drain the coolant.

10. After unscrewing all the mounting nuts, pull off and remove the exhaust manifold.

11. Remove the gasket.

If you have a pin broken somewhere, or it breaks during the process of removing the manifold, you just need to drill it out. Access to all studs is more or less normal, except for one which is near the accessory bracket. In order to drill out this stud, you need to remove the bracket. The pin is marked in the photo below.

You need to drill out with a side drill.

12. We screw in the studs where they came out and screw in new ones where we drilled them out. The studs need to be seated on a thread locker (blue), especially the lower ones, to prevent coolant from leaking.

Also check that the remaining studs are tightened.

13. Before installing the collector, use a wire brush to clean the area where the exhaust pipe meets and where it meets the head.

Also check the flatness of the contact area between the manifold and the head. You can place it on a flat table or use a special ruler.

The contact area must be level. If it is crooked, then the collector is ground or another one is installed.

14. Screw the studs securing the exhaust pipe into the manifold. There are turnkey edges for ten.

The nuts from the studs must be pre-tightened. We clamp the stud in a vice and twist the nut.

15. Install the gasket.

16. Remove the rags from the exhaust pipe and hang the manifold.

17. Screw on all the manifold mounting nuts and tighten.

18. Install the gasket and put on the exhaust pipe.

19. We put on the springs, screw and tighten the nuts securing the exhaust pipe.

Marked is the spring that fits onto the manifold stud where the exhaust pipe is attached

20. Connect the lambda probe connector and install the heat shield in place.

Before installation, check the heat shield mounting studs. The studs are through, if they are not there or they are twisted clumsily, there will be a breakthrough of gases.

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silicone sealant

The restoration work took about an hour. For good access to the repair areas, it was necessary to remove the individual ignition coils. The sealant and a bottle of cleaner cost 300 rubles. The repeated test for air leaks after the seal had dried was successful - the speed stopped floating!

The nuts securing the catalytic collector to the Priora cylinder head are difficult to access. In addition, the collector flange is sealed with a metal-reinforced gasket. The sealing gasket must be replaced every time the connection is disassembled. Before removing the catalytic converter, it is necessary to remove the intake manifold - this will facilitate access to its mounting.

• 1. Remove the decorative engine cover (see “Removing and installing the decorative engine cover for the VAZ 2171”).
• 2. Remove the wire from the negative terminal of the battery.
• 3. Disconnect the exhaust pipe of the additional muffler from the catalytic collector by unscrewing the nuts securing the exhaust pipe flange to the catalytic collector flange and remove the exhaust pipe flange from the studs of the VAZ 2170 catalytic collector flange (see “Replacing the additional muffler”).
• 4. Remove the air filter (see “Removing and installing the air filter”).

5. Remove the air supply hose and three hoses of the crankcase ventilation system of the VAZ 2170 (see “Cleaning the crankcase ventilation system”).

6. Disconnect the four connectors of the ignition module wiring harness and move the harness to the side. Remove the ignition modules (see “Removing and installing ignition coils”).

7. Remove the throttle assembly.

8. Remove the intake manifold of the VAZ 2172 (see “Replacing the cylinder head cover gasket of the Lada Priora”).

9. Disconnect the wiring harness blocks of the control and diagnostic oxygen concentration sensors from the engine harness...

10. ...and disconnect the holders of the wiring harnesses of the control and diagnostic oxygen concentration sensors from the heat-insulating shield of the steering mechanism

11. Unscrew the three nuts securing the thermal insulation shield of the Lada Priora steering mechanism to the engine shield and remove the shield.

• 12. Unscrew the two nuts securing the water pump supply pipe bracket, unscrew the bolts securing the catalytic collector to its mounting bracket, unscrew the eight nuts securing the catalytic collector to the Priora cylinder head and remove the catalytic collector. Disconnecting the catenary collector from the cylinder head and troubleshooting it is described in detail in the subsection “Replacing the catenary collector gasket”.
• 13. Remove the sealing gasket of the catenary collector from the cylinder head studs.
• Be sure to replace the sealing gasket of the catalytic collector and inlet pipe with a new one every time you disassemble the connection.
• 14. Clean the flanges of the block head and catalytic collector from the remains of the old gasket and carbon deposits.

• 15. Unscrew both oxygen sensors from the VAZ 2171 catenary collector and install them on the new VAZ 2172 catenary collector.
• 16. Install the cathode collector and all removed parts and assemblies in the reverse order of removal.

To prevent the gasket from sticking and to improve its tightness, we recommend lubricating the gasket on both sides with a thin layer of graphite grease before installation.

Lubricate the mounting studs of the Priora exhaust manifold with graphite grease.

• high noise level;
• exhaust gases entering the cabin;
• increased fuel consumption;
• reduction in engine power.

Replacing the exhaust manifold and gasket on a VAZ 2114

The exhaust manifold is a unit that is responsible for ride quality, without which comfort is impossible. This is silence and the absence of exhaust smell under the hood, which can be drawn into the cabin through the hole in the cabin filter. Fixing a leak in the exhaust manifold of a VAZ 2114 is a necessary repair. Fortunately, it is not urgent; you can prepare in advance and choose a convenient moment.

Exhaust manifold for VAZ 2114

Causes of malfunctions

The key factor that causes 90% of exhaust manifold malfunctions on VAZ 2114 cars is high temperature and poor quality materials from which the parts are made. During operation, the steel repeatedly heats up and cools down, which leads to the appearance of cracks in the body. This is a common occurrence for VAZ cars older than 7-8 years.

Auto repair shops offer crack welding services using argon welding. However, for a number of reasons, this activity is useless for cars older than 7 years.

1) Just removing and installing the exhaust manifold will cost about 2.5 thousand rubles. Taking into account the work of the welder and other actions, the cost of repairs can be 4-5 thousand rubles. If you do the work yourself, buying a new part will cost less.

2) Welding, even argon welding, disrupts the structure of “tired” metal. A boiled part rarely lasts longer than a year, after which new holes appear. The older the car, the faster the problem returns, and the collector has to be removed again.

If the car is older than 8 years and there are problems with cracks in the manifold, it is better to remove the part and replace it with a new one.

Signs of trouble

Exhaust manifold gasket

One of the main signs of a leak in the system is a “sporty” growling sound when the engine speed increases. This may be a symptom of various exhaust system problems. To check, it is better to take an assistant and go to a garage with a pit or to an overpass. Most often, you can determine by eye whether the problem lies in the muffler, resonator or exhaust.

Gasket wear may become apparent during planting. Open the hood and start the car - white or grayish smoke rising from the manifold during warm-up indicates a leak for this reason. VAZ car owners usually encounter this problem once every 3-4 years. When using low-quality spare parts and before. The solution may be to manufacture a custom-made steel gasket. It can last as long as the entire collector.

Service specialists, when attracting clients, like to tell scary stories about the explosion of the exhaust manifold on VAZ 2114 cars due to cracks. In reality this is nothing more than a myth. But the real problems are no less serious, so there is no point in putting off repairs.

A cracked exhaust manifold or worn gasket can cause your engine to run rough.

1) A lambda probe is installed in the exhaust manifold, which affects the operation of the injection system. Strong air suction disrupts the oxygen mass content in the exhaust; the lambda incorrectly adjusts the quality of the mixture, causing tripping, uneven idling, loss of power, and “black” spark plugs.

2) Another function is crankcase ventilation. Impaired air circulation causes disturbances in the operation of the gas distribution mechanism, increased wear of valves, the formation of carbon deposits on the pistons and other “joys”.

If increased noise and unpleasant odors during engine operation are combined with dirty work, the car needs urgent repairs.

Tools and necessary parts

To remove the exhaust manifold on a VAZ 2114 in order to replace the gasket or entire part, you will need the following tool:

• open-end and ring wrenches for 8, 10, 13, 17;
• wrench with heads 17, 19;
• screwdrivers, pliers.

It is also a good idea to have tools such as a Dremel, nut saw or nut pick on hand. As a rule, the fasteners on the exhaust system parts stick tightly.

A few days before your planned repair, begin treating accessible nuts with WD-40 or another penetrating lubricant. Repeat the operation 2-3 times. This will make the task of removing the manifold a little easier .

The question often arises: is it worth using a sealant after removing and replacing the gasket? Experts believe that if you apply sealant to the gasket, it should only be high-quality silicone. A bad sealant can bring a lot of trouble to a VAZ 2114 engine: when it burns out, it turns into “pellets” that are pulled into the crankcase. And this is unnecessary contamination of the piston system.

Exhaust manifold removal procedure

Before removing the exhaust manifold yourself, think 7 times. Having this work done by a service center is not cheap, but the inaccessibility and difficulty of unscrewing some nuts can be a serious problem.

Unscrew the bolt securing the intake pipe

It is important to drain the coolant before removal, as antifreeze may enter the cylinders during the process. The sequence of actions for cars with an injector is as follows:

1. Disconnect the battery, release the throttle cable from the throttle valve.
2. Disconnect the fuel line pipes.
3. Disconnect the wires from the TPS and idle speed control.
4. Release the crankcase ventilation, vacuum, and brake booster hoses.
5. Remove the receiver, remove the injector block wires and remove the injector fuel rail.
6. Remove the bracket and thermal shield.
7. After this, you can disconnect the exhaust pipe, exhaust and intake manifolds from the manifold.

After disassembly, all gaskets are replaced with new ones. Please note when purchasing that the exhaust manifold gaskets for 8-valve and 16-valve VAZ 2114 are different. Select the parts carefully and you can avoid wasting time and money.

Ramp

Replacing the cathode collector on a VAZ 2110

The ramp is removed as an assembly with the fuel pressure regulator:

• It is necessary to disconnect the vacuum hose from the regulator.
• Using 2 open-end wrenches 17, unscrew the fittings securing the gasoline supply pipes to reduce pressure.
• Disconnect the ramp voltage connector.
• Using a screwdriver, unscrew the screw of the bracket for fastening the gasoline supply and outlet pipes and disconnect it.
• Using a No. 5 hexagon, unscrew the 2 screws for fastening the ramp.
• Pull the ramp in the axial direction of the injector from the seat, remove the ramp towards the left side of the hood.

Note: follow the direction of travel of the vehicle.

Replacement cathode collector for VAZ 2110

• Unscrew the nut from the left intake manifold bracket and loosen the lower bolt.
• Remove the bracket from it.
• Perform the same operation with the right bracket and remove it.
• Unscrew the 2 nuts from the eye stud.

Removing the eye

• Unscrew the 3 nuts from the receiver bracket and remove it.
• Carefully remove the bushing from the intake manifold stud.
• Disconnect the exhaust air intake pipe and remove it from the lower intake air studs.
• Unscrew the top nut and loosen the bottom nut a little on the bar.

Note. It holds the antifreeze pump tubes for cooling. The bar at the bottom has a through slot; carefully remove it.

Replacement cat collector for VAZ 2110

• The intake manifold is mounted on studs, so you need to unscrew one nut on top and 2 on the side. To remove the exhaust manifold, you need to unscrew an additional 2 nuts. You need to carefully inspect the connection point, since 2 gaskets are installed between the manifold and the block head.

Note. When dismantling the intake manifold, pay attention to the gaskets. If the gasket burns out, antifreeze can get into the cylinder block. There may be holes drilled by antifreeze on the head of the blocks, and there may also be holes in the gasket.

Replacement cat collector for VAZ 2110

• Antifreeze may leak into valves and cylinders. In this case, you need to remove it from there using a syringe. Unscrew the spark plugs (see Replacing spark plugs on a VAZ 2110 on your own) and crank them with the starter to remove any antifreeze that gets there. If grooves are found on the surface, the collector must be replaced.
• At the bottom, the exhaust manifold is attached to the exhaust pipe. Then it is connected to the exhaust pipe. Unscrew the three bolts and disconnect the pipe. Remove the collector. You need to unscrew them from the inspection hole and first tap the heads. Use a metal brush to clean the nuts and threads.
• During assembly, replace all gaskets with new ones one by one. It is advisable to tighten the nuts during assembly using a special wrench. Also replace the injector O-rings with new ones.

Gaskets are sold in sets, the cost of one is from 300 rubles. The cost of the exhaust manifold is 1,700 rubles. If the replacement is carried out at a service station or car service station, the repair will cost around 3,500 rubles plus the cost of a set of gaskets and a manifold. When doing your own repairs to replace the exhaust manifold, you must carefully and scrupulously read the instructions. Also view video clips and photos.

Note: photographs must be arranged in order of work. As repair processes are completed, fold them in reverse order. Once you've finished disassembling, turn the stack of photos over. Reassemble in reverse order. Before assembly, the nuts must be lubricated with graphite thread lubricant, and the threads of all bushings must also be lubricated. Thoroughly clean the installation areas of the gaskets from inclusions and foreign contents.

By doing the work yourself, you can save a lot of money, because the price of repairs in special workshops and service stations is very high and not everyone can afford to pay the cost.

Lada Kalina (8, 16 valves): replacing the catalyst with a spider or flame arrester

These are: fuel system, exhaust gas recirculation system. After a run of 80-100 thousand km, the metal housing of the exhaust manifold begins to crack at the seams.

Flange connections are torn away from their seats.

Replacing a catalyst with a spider, as a process, is divided into several stages.

So, division into stages: collecting data on the number and location of catalysts in the car; preparation of spare parts in each specific case for modification;

How much does a repair at a service station cost?

How much will it cost to replace the exhaust manifold gasket? The price for this type of work depends on the type of engine (carburetor, injection, 8-valve, 16-valve), the model of the seal itself, as well as the prices of the service station where you plan to repair your car.

On average, the work itself, together with the seal, costs somewhere around 1,500 rubles.

But you don’t have to spend money on work. Replacing the VAZ exhaust manifold gasket can be done on your own without much difficulty. Especially if you have a set of hand tools and you have even the slightest idea about the design of your car’s engine.

Spare parts and tools for work

Before starting work on replacing valves on a VAZ 2110, high-quality new parts are purchased, the names and original articles of which are as follows:

1. Set of gaskets: valve cover (art. 2108-1003270/77) and cylinder head (art. 21083-1003020), intake and exhaust manifolds (set art. 21083-1008081), exhaust gas intake pipe (art. 2103-1203020-04) , as well as an oil seal (art. 2108-1005034) and oil flinger rings (art. 2108-1007026-86) (the so-called cylinder head repair kit)
2. New valves for the fuel mixture intake system 4 pcs. (art. 21083-1007010)
3. New exhaust system valves 4 pcs. (art. 2108-1007012)
4. Valve guides 8 pcs. (art. 2108-1007032-87)
5. Engine coolant
6. New bolts securing the cylinder head to the cylinder block (art. 2108-1003271Н/О)
7. Timing belt (art. 2108-1006040-86) and generator drive belt (art. 1000012562)
8. Engine oil and oil filter

Repairs to replace worn-out parts are carried out using a standard set of tools, which are usually sold as a set, namely:

• a set of open-end wrenches marked from 8 to 21 mm;
• set of internal hex keys;
• a set of sockets with a diameter from 8 to 24 mm;
• valve desiccant;
• screw valve guide puller;
• torque wrench (needed for proper tightening of the camshaft, cylinder head and camshaft gear bolts);
• Screwdriver Set;
• electric drill;
• specialized lapping paste of two types (for rough lapping of valves to their working surface of the combustion chamber and for finishing grinding);
• gloves to protect hands from possible damage.

The presence of tools, parts and a covered room will allow you to carry out troubleshooting work yourself, since the price of replacing 8 valves on a VAZ 2110 in non-certified services in the fall of 2022 varies from 30 to 45 thousand rubles. At a certified service station of official dealers, such work will cost more than 50 thousand, which will greatly affect the financial situation of the car owner.

What is needed for repairs

Replacing the exhaust manifold gasket involves using the following means:

• set of spanners;
• slotted and Phillips screwdrivers;
• sharp knife or spatula (to remove old gasket);
• a container with a wide neck with a volume of at least 5 liters (for draining coolant);
• rust preventative (WD-40 or similar);
• dry rags.

Important: replacing the exhaust manifold gasket 2114, like other VAZ models, requires preliminary draining of the coolant. Otherwise, you risk flooding the engine intake windows with it.

Replacing the exhaust manifold on a Priora

Welcome! Exhaust manifold - whatever people call it, someone says the spider replaced it, someone changed the catalyst (Although the catalyst is built into the intake manifold, the manifold itself is not a catalyst by name as such) says, and someone actually means pants by exhaust manifold , in fact, after these words you immediately understand what we are talking about, but still, things in your own words need to be called with the words that the creators gave them, and not with those that came from the people.

Note! To replace this part, you need to stock up on a considerable set of tools, namely, you will need various kinds: Keys ranging from wrenches to extensions with cardan joints (It’s just that the exhaust manifold is not very conveniently installed and to remove it, any keys that any person should have in his arsenal will do ), in addition, you will need various screwdrivers, a rag will also come in handy, and it is best to do all the work with gloves, as your hands can be injured!

Summary:

Where is the exhaust manifold located? It is located at the back of the engine and in order to see it, and especially to remove it, you will have to remove some other parts from the car, but if you take a good look under the back of the car engine and without removing anything you can see the exhaust manifold, in the photo below as you can see it is indicated red arrow, but the topmost sensor, if you noticed, has already been removed from it, on your car this sensor will be and for clarity, in the photo, the right cup (If you look in the direction of the car’s movement) is indicated by a blue arrow, so you definitely won’t get confused where to look and where to look for a collector.

When should you replace the exhaust manifold? Based on the symptoms, you can determine if the very catalyst that is installed inside the manifold becomes unusable (clogged), then firstly the car will drive worse (This is because the exhaust gases do not have time to escape due to the contaminated catalyst and thereby fly back into the engine , but the point is that they are of no use and they only take away power) and consumption will increase (Because you will have to press the gas pedal more).

Intake manifold removal process

Dismantling the intake manifold is carried out with the car cooled down for safety reasons. So, this operation can take about an hour and will require some knowledge of the car’s design, namely the injection system. So, let's consider the sequence of actions for dismantling the unit:

• We dismantle the throttle. To do this, it is not necessary to disconnect all the pipes and pipes; it is enough to disconnect the unit from the manifold and move it to the side. Of course, at the same time, it is still recommended to remove the throttle valve completely for cleaning.

• Disconnect the throttle cable from the intake manifold.
• Disconnect the wires from the ignition coils. This is easy to do; you just need to disconnect the connectors.

• Disconnect the camshaft position sensor wires.
• Disconnect the wiring harness from the absorber purge valve.
• Disconnect the brake booster hose from the intake manifold.

• Unscrew the clamp and disconnect the crankcase ventilation pipe.

• Unscrew the self-tapping screw securing the guide tube of the oil level indicator.

• We take out the dipstick along with the guide tube.

• Using a socket or a 10mm wrench, unscrew the nuts securing the intake module and the ignition coils of cylinders 1, 2 and 3.

• We dismantle the ignition coils of cylinders 1, 2 and 3.
• Now, you can unscrew the direct fastenings of the intake manifold to the cylinder head.

• Move forward and remove the manifold.

It is worth noting that installation of the intake manifold is carried out in the reverse order and does not require any additions or changes.

Engine 2112 characteristics

Years of production - (1997 - 2004) Cylinder block material - cast iron Power system - injector Type - in-line Number of cylinders - 4 Valves per cylinder - 4 Piston stroke - 71mm Cylinder diameter - 82mm Compression ratio - 10.5 Engine displacement 2112 - 1499 cm cube Engine power 2112 – 93 hp. /5600 rpm Torque - 128 Nm / 3700 rpm Fuel - AI95 Fuel consumption - city 8.8 l. | track 5.5 l. | mixed 7.2 l/100 km Oil consumption - 50 g/1000 km Weight of the VAZ 2112 engine - 127 kg Overall dimensions of the 2112 engine (LxWxH), mm - Oil for the VAZ 2112 engine: 5W-30 5W-40 10W-40 15W40 How much oil in engine 2112: 3.5 l. When replacing, pour 3.2 liters.

Priora fuel system

• gas tank;• pump and filter located in the tank;• fuel line;• pressure regulator;• fuel rail;• four injectors;• throttle valve;• intake manifold;• electronic engine management system.

The work is based on the fact that when the ignition is turned on, the electric fuel pump starts working, which builds up pressure in the rail. Further, when the engine is cranked by the starter, the electronic control unit opens and closes the injectors, the air-fuel mixture enters the combustion chambers, according to the operating diagram.

After fuel enters the combustion chamber, a spark is formed between the electrodes of the spark plugs. The fuel ignites and the engine starts. The injectors are electromagnetic valves, and the control unit is responsible for their operation. He is also responsible for the quality of the mixture, the ratio of air and gasoline. Sometimes problems arise and you have to disassemble the fuel system for repairs.

When is it time to change?

Many owners of VAZ 2110 cars are interested in the question of how long it takes to change the gasket. In many ways, the frequency of replacement depends on the quality of the gasket itself; the better the material, the longer it will last. The frequency of replacement is affected by the intensity of use of the car. The cylinder head gasket is a rubber product that over time loses its elasticity, hardens, cracks and ceases to perform its main function - sealing the connection of the cylinder head with the cylinder block.

The quality of the gasket is of great importance for the proper operation of the engine. If you do not monitor its condition, the motor will quickly exhaust its service life. There are signs by which we can conclude that it needs to be replaced:

• the appearance of white steam in the exhaust gases,
• external leaks at the cylinder head connections of antifreeze or engine oil;
• oil stains in antifreeze;
• a large amount of oil in the pan;
• foam appears around the filler cap.

The presence of vapors in the exhaust gases can be checked by unscrewing the cap on the expansion tank and placing the bag over the neck. If it inflates after a short period of engine operation, it means that the gasket has become unusable.

Signs of a burnt-out VK gasket

Signs of a burnt gasket may include:

• change in the sound of a running engine;
• the appearance of a characteristic smell of exhaust gases in the vehicle interior;
• violation of engine stability, CHECK lamp on the dashboard is on.

As for the sound of the power unit, when the gasket burns out, a characteristic “chirping” is usually heard. In such cases, they say that the engine is “cutting.” This sound is created by exhaust gases escaping where the seal is damaged. Naturally, exhaust from under the hood enters the cabin through the heating and ventilation system. This creates additional inconvenience for the driver and passengers, and also poses a certain threat to their health, so in any case, replacing the exhaust manifold gasket if it is damaged is a necessary necessity.

In cars with injection engines, the operation of which is controlled by an electronic control unit (ECU), if the integrity of the gasket is damaged, the CHECK lamp on the dashboard may light up. This is due to the fact that the lambda probe, installed on the manifold itself or the exhaust pipe, detects changes in the amount of oxygen in the exhaust and transmits a signal to the ECU. Until the fault is eliminated, the controller forces the engine to operate in emergency mode.

VAZ 2112 engine breakdowns and repairs

To solve the problem of preserving valves from deformation when the timing belt breaks, you can install pistons from a 124 engine, but in this case several horsepower is lost. Therefore, when using a belt drive, as the instructions indicate, you need to periodically listen to the sound that the drive makes. So:

• At the beginning of wear, the rollers begin to squeak when cold, then rustle, then collapse.
• The pump begins to leak, which will lead to the presence of coolant on the belt.
• Seals that have become unusable lead to oil getting onto the belt.
• When the shafts wear out, the belt begins to slide to the side, which then rubs against the roller flange, which creates a grinding sound when cold.
• The belt may slip due to bending of the rollers.
• All of the above reasons can lead to belt rupture and, as a result, valve deformation.

Repair of valves for VAZ 2112 cars

First of all, it is necessary to disassemble the valve block of the VAZ 2112 engine:

• All parts that are attached to the cylinder head are removed: timing belt, pulleys, thermostat, rollers, intake manifold, exhaust pipe, all wires are disconnected.
• The valve cover is disconnected.
• A brush is put on the drill and the cylinders are wiped clean from carbon deposits until they shine, for which you need to turn the crankshaft twice.
• Using a special device that clamps the spring, the valves are loosened and removed with tweezers.
• Diamond chips are applied to the edge of the valve, as shown in the photo.

Applying diamond chips to the valve

• A rubber pipe is placed on the end of the guide valve and the valve is turned with both hands. Grinding must be carried out until a ring-shaped uniform mark is formed on the seat and valve plate.

Tip: To increase friction, the valve needs to be pulled down a little.

• Carefully remove any remaining lapping paste from the seat and valve.

Valve after lapping

• The valve is installed in place.
• If grinding does not help, the gap does not decrease, the valve must be replaced.
• Assembly is performed in reverse order.

Advantages of the VAZ 2112 with 16 engine valves

By installing 16 valves in the cylinder head, record engine power is achieved, whether it is turbocharged or naturally aspirated. So:

• to an increase in power. So the 8 valve VAZ 2112 engine with a volume of 1500 cc. centimeters has 77 horsepower, and the 16 valve engine in the VAZ 2112, which has the same volume, produces up to 90 horsepower.
• Changing the shape of the combustion chamber makes it possible to increase the knock resistance of the engine with 16 valves. This indicator is important, especially when low quality fuel is used.
• In such devices, the engine cooling system works better, which increases the reliability and durability of the unit.
• During the layout, the intake and exhaust tracts are spaced in different directions from the head on a VAZ 2112 with a 16 valve engine. This makes it easier to install the correct intake and exhaust manifolds.

Eight-valve engine tuning

To increase the power of an 8-valve engine, it can be equipped with a 16-valve cylinder head. To do this, the 8-valve engine of a VAZ 2112 is disassembled and parts are replaced:

• The bolts that attract the head to the cylinder block are changed; they differ from the 16-valve device in diameter and length. When installing the cylinder block and head from different engines, modified bolts are required. In this case, the bolts are used with a diameter similar to that of an 8-valve engine and a length similar to that of a 16-valve engine.
• To install a 16-valve head, you need to drill holes for installing bolts.
• The head gasket is also being finalized, its holes are also drilled out.
• Installing modified bolts increases engine reliability.
• Before installing the cylinder head, the cylinder block itself is assembled.
• The pistons of 16 and 8 valves are different. Therefore they need to be replaced.
• If the car is equipped with old connecting rods used on the VAZ 2108, then they need to be replaced with others from the VAZ 2110. This is due to the fact that the piston pin is pressed into the old connecting rods, and 16-valve pistons can only be mounted in a new type connecting rod.
• After assembling the motor, it is necessary to modify the wiring. This is due to the displacement of some sensors, which leads to lengthening of the wires for them.

Tip: To avoid additional expenses associated with replacing the engine control unit, you need to leave the old ignition module and connect it via high-voltage wires to the spark plugs.

• The last operation is to configure the VAZ 2112 16 valve engine control unit using a special program.

Tip: To increase power, you can install tuning of the exhaust manifold; its price is much lower than that of a standard 16-valve manifold with a catalyst.

This is how the VAZ 2112 engine turns out to have 16 valves. 8 valves are replaced by 16, which increases the power and reliability of the car.

Tuning a 16 valve engine

• The simplest and most standard way to increase the power of a VAZ 2112 engine is to replace the camshafts with STI-1 (standard receiver).
• Installation of a light ShPG from a 126 engine.
• Replacing the throttle valve to a diameter of 54 - 56 millimeters.

After such changes, the output power is 120 hp. Increase power to 150 hp. possible by:

• Installations of wide-phase camshafts.
• Using lightweight T-valves.
• Performing modifications to the cylinder head intake manifold.

To obtain increased power, you can install a compressor.

Installing a compressor on a VAZ 2112

Composition of the output unit

The exhaust system for a VAZ 2110 car consists of the following elements:

1. Exhaust manifold;
2. Lambda probe;
3. Receiving type pipes;
4. Neutralizer;
5. Two mufflers: main type and additional.

Not all exhaust components are disassembled; some parts, such as the converter, as well as both mufflers, are replaced entirely.

Description of individual components

To make the structure of such an element as the discharge system clearer, it is necessary to give a detailed description of all components:

1. Neutralizer. A unit designed for effective purification and suppression of emissions of harmful substances into the environment. When driving, a car produces substances such as non-combustible hydrocarbons, oxide compounds of nitrogen and carbon. The work of this system is aimed at eliminating them. The design itself is a combination of two ceramic-type components. The surface of these components is coated with special afterburning catalysts, which include rhodium, palladium and platinum. These substances make it possible to purify exhaust gases emitted into the environment by almost 100%;
2. Lambda probe. It is a special sensor whose task is to control the composition and amount of fuel that enters the engine. The lambda probe thereby controls the purifier. If the lambda probe does not work properly, then the entire output assembly will quickly become unusable, after which it will have to be replaced;
3. Reception pipe. Designed for forced removal of exhaust gases from the cylinders of a power unit. The pipe is made of stainless steel, and its fastening to the collector is carried out using special pins, of which there are four in total. The studs guarantee reliable fastening of the two outlet pipes and the element. In order to combine the exhaust pipe and the neutralizer, as well as an additional muffler, hinged fasteners are used;
4. An exhaust manifold. A component that is cast from pure cast iron. The manifold is secured with four studs in the exhaust pipe. Heat-resistant gaskets reinforced with metal are installed between the manifold and cylinder heads.
5. Silencers. Necessary for effectively suppressing the exhaust rate of burnt gases. This is necessary in order to significantly reduce the noise level in a type of transport such as the VAZ 2110. The distribution device in this part of the unit is carried out as follows: the additional one is followed by the main one. These two components are connected to each other by clamps and sealing rings and are covered with a special casing on top.

Nuances of operation

There are some points that need to be taken into account when operating the VAZ 2110 system:

1. Under no circumstances should the vehicle be refueled with leaded fuel, as this will cause damage. It is very sensitive to lead compounds;
2. When operating a VAZ 2110 car, you also need to monitor the proper, precise operation of the ignition, since its poor-quality operation leads to the neutralizing part being removed from its working condition. Fuel that does not burn when a spark passes during ignition enters the converter and burns out there. For this reason, the ceramic coating of the component quickly deteriorates;
3. Frequent malfunctions will sooner or later lead to complete or partial blockage of the output system, in turn to the failure of the engine and its repair or replacement will be required.

Troubleshooting

The operation of a machine is always associated with the occurrence of malfunctions in parts and mechanisms. If some parts become unusable, then they need to be replaced or repaired yourself.

To replace the additional muffler in the exhaust unit:

1. unscrew the two bolts that secure the clamp, for this you need a 13mm wrench;
2. remove the clamp itself;
3. remove the ring;
4. disconnect the additional suspension cushions;
5. remove the unit.

After this, a replacement is made, it is mounted in place in the reverse order. These are basic troubleshooting repair steps.

In addition to replacing standard faulty components with the same ones, but only new ones, you can modify individual components of the exhaust system, or tune the entire assembly.

If you find an error, please select a piece of text and press Ctrl+Enter.

Replacing the VAZ 2114 manifold

The collector (resonator, “pants”) is an engine attachment; it is a closed reservoir of complex shape with a common chamber (receiver) and outlet pipes. Depending on the nature of the functions performed in a car, there are two types of manifolds - exhaust and intake.

The main task of the intake manifold is to supply air from the distribution system, mix it with fuel and transform it into an air-fuel mixture of the desired consistency, followed by a uniform supply to the combustion chamber of the cylinders. Therefore, the main task of the exhaust manifold is to collect exhaust gases from the engine cylinders into a single pipe.

Self-replacement

Replacing the exhaust manifold of a VAZ 2110

• the car needs to be driven into the garage;
• hang a lamp with a safety light under the hood;
• before starting repairs, antifreeze must be drained from the tank;
• disconnect the battery terminals;
• take it out;
• put on a rack;
• disconnect the vacuum booster hose from the receiver;
• also disconnect the hoses of the electric pneumatic valve cover and the ramp pressure regulator;
• disconnect the chips of the throttle sensor, idle air control;
• disconnect the throttle valve cable;
• loosen the clamp on the air supply hose to the air flow sensor housing;
• disconnect it;
• loosen the clamps for attaching the hoses to the throttle pipe and ventilation of crankcase gases on the cylinder head cover;

Replacing the cathode collector for a VAZ 2110

• remove the hoses in pairs;
• loosen the crankcase ventilation hose clamp;
• remove it from the throttle assembly;
• In the same way, carry out further work with the coolant inlet and outlet hoses.

Note. Use a 13mm socket to make the work easier, unscrew the 2 nuts from the throttle assembly from the studs. The throttle assembly is attached to the receiver.

• loosen the clamp;
• disconnect the adsorber purge hose;
• remove the throttle assembly;
• remove the sealing gasket.

Note: these nuts must be unscrewed using a number 13 wrench.

The receiver must be removed together with the throttle assembly. In addition, it is necessary to disconnect all inlet and outlet hoses and idle speed sensor chips from the assembly. Carefully check to make sure that all fastenings are completely loosened.

Note: it is recommended to remember all the attachment points; you can use threads of different colors. To prevent incorrect connections during assembly.

Note: place the parts in a container so that during assembly you do not have to look for missing spare parts.

Unscrew the 2 nuts for attaching the fuel supply and outlet pipe bracket to the receiver. The same - 1 nut for fastening the receiver to the bracket, 5 pieces for fastening to the intake manifold. Remove the receiver, remove the gasket.

Preparation stages

To replace the manifold or its gasket, in any case you will have to dismantle the VK. But before you get to the element you are looking for, you will first need to go through some preparatory steps. Namely, tighten the fasteners, and then remove the air filter and carburetor if the first stage does not help.

Dismantling the unit

Self-replacement

Replacing the exhaust manifold of a VAZ 2110

• the car needs to be driven into the garage;
• hang a lamp with a safety light under the hood;
• before starting repairs, antifreeze must be drained from the tank;
• disconnect the battery terminals;
• take it out;
• put on a rack;
• disconnect the vacuum booster hose from the receiver;
• also disconnect the hoses of the electric pneumatic valve cover and the ramp pressure regulator;
• disconnect the chips of the throttle sensor, idle air control;
• disconnect the throttle valve cable;
• loosen the clamp on the air supply hose to the air flow sensor housing;
• disconnect it;
• loosen the clamps for attaching the hoses to the throttle pipe and ventilation of crankcase gases on the cylinder head cover;

Replacing the cathode collector for a VAZ 2110

• remove the hoses in pairs;
• loosen the crankcase ventilation hose clamp;
• remove it from the throttle assembly;
• In the same way, carry out further work with the coolant inlet and outlet hoses.

Note. Use a 13mm socket to make the work easier, unscrew the 2 nuts from the throttle assembly from the studs. The throttle assembly is attached to the receiver.

• loosen the clamp;
• disconnect the adsorber purge hose;
• remove the throttle assembly;
• remove the sealing gasket.

Note: these nuts must be unscrewed using a number 13 wrench.

The receiver must be removed together with the throttle assembly. In addition, it is necessary to disconnect all inlet and outlet hoses and idle speed sensor chips from the assembly. Carefully check to make sure that all fastenings are completely loosened.

Note: it is recommended to remember all the attachment points; you can use threads of different colors. To prevent incorrect connections during assembly.

Note: place the parts in a container so that during assembly you do not have to look for missing spare parts.

Unscrew the 2 nuts for attaching the fuel supply and outlet pipe bracket to the receiver. The same - 1 nut for fastening the receiver to the bracket, 5 pieces for fastening to the intake manifold. Remove the receiver, remove the gasket.

Causes of malfunctions

The key factor that causes 90% of exhaust manifold malfunctions on VAZ 2114 cars is high temperature and poor quality materials from which the parts are made. During operation, the steel repeatedly heats up and cools down, which leads to the appearance of cracks in the body. This is a common occurrence for VAZ cars older than 7-8 years.

Auto repair shops offer crack welding services using argon welding. However, for a number of reasons, this activity is useless for cars older than 7 years.

1) Just removing and installing the exhaust manifold will cost about 2.5 thousand rubles. Taking into account the work of the welder and other actions, the cost of repairs can be 4-5 thousand rubles. If you do the work yourself, buying a new part will cost less.

2) Welding, even argon welding, disrupts the structure of “tired” metal. A boiled part rarely lasts longer than a year, after which new holes appear. The older the car, the faster the problem returns, and the collector has to be removed again. If the car is older than 8 years and there are problems with cracks in the manifold, it is better to remove the part and replace it with a new one.

How to extend gasket life

Although replacing the exhaust manifold gasket is inexpensive and can be done successfully in your own garage, who wants to waste their time on it? It's better to let it serve longer. And to extend its service life, listen to the following tips:

• monitor the condition of the cooling system, check the level of antifreeze (antifreeze) to prevent engine overheating;
• use only high-quality fuel;
• check the tightness of the connection between the cylinder head and the exhaust manifold;
• If you find that the integrity of the gasket is damaged, do not wait until it burns out completely, replace it;
• When buying an exhaust manifold gasket, choose a quality product from well-known manufacturers.

In this article we will discuss the symptoms when the exhaust manifold gasket has burned out. For an exhaust device, the gasket is one of the main parts on which the entire correctness and accuracy of the exhaust system will depend.

If the manifold seal is not replaced in a timely manner, the safety conditions for operating the vehicle are greatly reduced.

In general, a manifold is a device designed to remove exhaust gases from a car engine. The second function of the collector is to improve the filling of the working chambers and enhance the ventilation of the working space. All operation of the exhaust device is carried out at elevated temperatures and high gas pressure.

This element is attached directly to the head ( cylinder head

) and the other side is in contact with the exhaust pipe or converter. The most important task of the exhaust manifold gasket is to prevent exhaust gases from entering the valve space. These gases, in turn, can cause fire of parts or elements of the power unit.

Symptoms of a blown exhaust manifold gasket

The following can be distinguished: exhaust gases begin to flow into the car interior or their smell is felt; the car engine begins to start poorly; Strange sounds appear in the engine compartment. If these ailments are detected, you should begin to inspect the exhaust system. The collector itself is made of high-strength austenitic steel.

In this regard, burnout and replacement of the collector is quite rare. The main reason for the breakdown of the collector itself is drops of water falling on its hot surface, which leads to the formation of cracks in it.

The weak link of this durable and reliable element is the gaskets. Wear of the manifold gasket occurs mainly due to: poor quality of the material or very long operation under increased loads.

Manifold gaskets are now made from steel-reinforced, durable asbestos. However, even such a durable material is susceptible to destruction. The process of replacing the exhaust manifold gasket is not at all difficult.

Experts even recommend replacing the gasket after some time, without waiting for it to fail.

We carry out the following procedures:

• 1. Open the hood of the car;
• 2. Remove the air intake. Then remove the carburetor. Under these engine elements is the exhaust manifold;
• 3. Remove the thermal shield. It covers the collector;
• 4. Unscrew two nuts on each cylinder that secure the manifold;
• 5. Unscrew a couple of bolts from the exhaust pipe;
• 6. Remove the manifold;
• 7. There should be an old gasket or remains of it on the cylinder head;
• 8. We clear all the space for a new gasket;
• 9. Clean everything until it shines;
• 10. After cleaning, apply a graphite-based lubricant to the area;
• 11. Now install a new gasket;
• 12. Reassemble everything in reverse order.

• 1. The pressure on the turbine begins to decrease;
• 2. When driving at high speeds and under load, black smoke appears in the exhaust;
• 3. When driving on the highway, you feel increased fuel consumption;
• 4. It may start to whistle at certain speeds.

As you can see, the symptoms can significantly affect the driving characteristics of the car. Therefore, you should not delay replacing a burnt gasket. In this article, we discussed the main symptoms that the exhaust manifold gasket has burned out. I would like to add the word “may” to all the symptoms described in the article, since they may not appear, or they may appear in a slightly different way.

Symptoms that the exhaust manifold gasket has burnt out. Full list and action plan »

Content

Actions in emergency situations Daily checks Operating instructions Warnings and technical rules Basic instruments, measuring Engine and its systems Transmission Chassis Steering Brake system Vehicle electrical equipment Body Interior ventilation and heating system Applications Fault codes Electrical diagrams

Sources

• https://expertvaz.ru/2110/premer-komplektatsii-tsena.html
• https://videoremont-mashin.ru/remont-kpp-vaz-21108/ustanovka-konditsionera-v-vaz-2110-ot-priory-svoimi-rukami/
• https://monolith.in.ua/predohraniteli-lada-2110/

How to install a 4-2-1 spider in place of the standard converter on a Lada Kalina 8V

In a car exhaust system, a catalytic converter is needed to burn harmful elements in the exhaust gases to the level of H2O and CO2. It is quite difficult to predict its service life, since it depends on many factors. But many owners of VAZ cars prefer to get rid of the collector before the end of its service life. For these purposes, they use special inserts, which are an inexpensive alternative to a neutralizer.

Contents Some car enthusiasts are sure that even a working neutralizer prevents the engine from developing the power it needs. This is not true. As for clogged or melted honeycombs, this phenomenon is the result of careless handling of the vehicle and its operation with a faulty fuel supply and ignition system.

The main reasons for device failure:

1. Unbalanced fuel-air mixture due to a broken oxygen sensor.
2. Unsatisfactory fuel quality.
3. Incorrect ignition operation.
4. Mechanical damage to the collector.
5. Use of fuel additives.

For the most part, replacing the catalyst on Kalina 8 valves is done as a result of using low quality fuel. Its slow combustion occurs partly in the exhaust. The detonation of gasoline destroys the ceramic structure of the honeycomb, which over time begins to crumble and clog thin passages.

Welcome to the website https://lada110atricom.ru

Many people have their own cars, of various brands, configurations, tuned and simply “gray” cars for everyday driving. Some make various gadgets for cars with their own hands, some send them to special services, and others simply admire how people do it. Actually, this is what I would like to talk about - tuning!

I didn’t have a car before and somehow didn’t need one, but in my heart I always wanted to sit, steer and enjoy the speed. The first step to buying a car was getting a driver's license, which I also went to study for spontaneously. In general, I studied for 3 months in DOSAAF and on February 29, 2008 I received my driver’s license. From time to time there was a desire to buy a car, but there was no money to buy it, and I began to think about it – where should I go?

Time passed, years flew by, rumors circulated about a crisis. By that time, we had managed to save up a little cash, which we finally decided to invest in some kind of automobile before it disappeared. One wonderful morning, we got ready and went to the car market in Saratov to choose a car for me. I had to borrow a considerable additional amount of cash from friends, otherwise my savings were not enough.

We set off on the road, drove and drove, and finally arrived. Let's go to the market.

There were a lot of cars in Saratov, some not for our money, others too dead, in general, we wandered and wandered and saw a red VAZ2110 (my favorite color). After some time, after a lot of walking, it was finally decided to buy the first car I liked and finally go home.

The path to home was not close, about 200 km. At first, I thought that my friend would drive and drive my car to my native Kamyshin, but I still drove it back myself. This is my very first time when I drove for so long, because the last time I held it in my hands was back in February and that was for about 10 minutes. For the first 10-20 minutes I couldn’t come to my senses that I was sitting behind my own car, My hands were shaking a little and I still couldn’t believe that I was going. Literally, after driving 50 kilometers, I already began to feel much more confident, fell back on the seat and began to enjoy the trip.

Everything would be fine, but in Krasnoarmeysk at the traffic police checkpoint we were stopped to check our documents. And I stupidly took only my license with me, and the rest of the documents remained with my mother, who drove ahead in another car with a driver. Luckily they stopped about 300 meters from us. The inspector had to wait for some time, to which he made a menacing expression on his face. They brought the documents, checked everything, but still got to the bottom of the fact that there was no first aid kit, fire extinguisher and sign. And the fact that the car even had transit license plates and had just been purchased did not bother him; he had to pay some fine to the Inspector’s fund. We got into the car, refueled and hit the road.

We got home quickly, we drove for about 3 hours in total, although it could have been longer, but I was still a beginner at that time, and the car was not tested, you never know what would break down, so I kept the speed around 100-110 km/h . But still there was a desire to experience the drive and therefore I accelerated once to 155 km/h, the car behaved amazingly on the road, I remained satisfied throughout the journey.

Here is a short story about the steps to buying my first car, which is with me to this day and makes me happy. From time to time I do something for the soul in it, a little tuning, etc. what I will tell you about in my Logbook

.

Express your opinions about my work, and just like that, we can discuss something, further work, plans.