Volkswagen Passat B2 Owners Forum
The question is where and what has worn out, if there is play in some part of the transmission when starting off and changing gears. Or, for example, you slow down with the engine, and then you give the gas again, again such a push-blow is observed, a bit rough. It was as if there was some play in a box between some gears. And could this be due to worn suspension? Thankful!
The same thing happened to me this winter. At first I only sinned on the CV joints, but experienced craftsmen pointed out that both the axle shaft assemblies and the differential in the box were wearing out. For now, I’m saving myself with smooth acceleration and braking. I’ll somehow make it until spring.
If the Lada Priora's starter does not turn
Possible malfunction
Burnt starter commutator, stuck brushes or severe wear
Open or short circuit in the starter armature winding
| Diagnostics | Remedies | |
| Low battery | The voltage at the battery terminals without load is less than 12V. When trying to start the engine, a cracking noise is heard from under the hood. | Charge the battery or replace it with a new one |
| Oxidation of battery terminals or wire terminals, their fit is not tight | When you try to start the car, the voltage in the on-board network drops much more than at the battery terminals. In this case, a crash may be heard under the hood. | Clean the contacts, lubricate them with petroleum jelly and tighten the terminals |
| The engine or attachments are jammed | Check the rotation of the crankshaft, pump and generator pulley. | Repair engine, generator, pump |
| The starter is faulty, the starter drive gear or flywheel ring teeth are damaged | Remove and inspect the starter. | Repair or replace starter |
| The starter switching circuit or starter relay is faulty, the wires are damaged, or the ignition switch contacts do not close | When the key is turned to position “II”, the starter traction relay does not operate (a click is not heard under the hood). Check the +12V supply to the control contact of the traction relay. | Replace starter relay, wires, ignition switch |
| The starter traction relay is faulty, there is a short circuit or break in the retractor winding, the relay armature is stuck | When the key is turned to position “II”, the traction relay does not operate (there is no click under the hood), but + 12V is supplied to the control contact of the traction relay. Remove the relay and check its operation. | Replace the traction relay |
| Contacts or wires of the traction relay are oxidized, poor ground contact | When the starter is turned on, a clicking sound is heard under the hood, but the starter armature does not rotate. Using an ohmmeter, check the resistance of the battery-starter circuit, as well as the ground wire. If the circuit is in good condition, remove the starter and check the operation of the traction relay by applying +12V to it from the battery | Tighten the terminals, clean the contacts, replace the traction relay |
| Open or short circuit in the holding winding of the traction relay | When you try to start the engine, you hear a crashing sound under the hood. The battery voltage is within normal limits. We check the traction relay with an ohmmeter or by its excessive heating. | Replace the traction relay |
| The starter armature rotates slowly or does not rotate at all. Check the traction relay by applying voltage to the starter contact bolt directly from the battery | Replace starter or armature | |
| Freewheel slipping | When the starter is turned on, the armature rotates, the flywheel is stationary | Replace clutch or starter |
What's the result?
As you can see, the engine can jerk during acceleration for a number of reasons. If replacing “consumables” (spark plugs, armored wires, filters), as well as standard scheduled procedures (cleaning the injector, adjusting the carburetor, setting the OZ, etc.) do not produce results, then you should also check the timing belt or chain, that is, the installation valve timing.
In such a situation, urgent diagnosis of the gearbox is necessary. It is easier to deal with a manual transmission by replacing the clutch disc, pressure plate or the entire assembly. On vehicles with a classic torque converter automatic transmission or manual transmission (robotic gearbox), if jerking occurs, you must stop using the vehicle.
Then you need to check the oil level in the automatic transmission and its condition. Next, diagnostics of electronic components, actuators, etc. will be required. You also need to be prepared for the fact that the gearbox (as a rule, this applies to automatic transmissions) in many cases will need to be disassembled for troubleshooting and subsequent expensive repairs.
As a result, jerks and dips appear when accelerating, and the car jerks in motion during transitional conditions. Causes and troubleshooting.
Purpose, design features, installation location of the fuel pressure regulator of an injection engine. Signs of RTD malfunctions, checking the device.
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Wheels from the factory are not the same as in the instruction manual (Lada XRAY)
For the Lada X Ray, the instruction manual (at the very end) states the wheel sizes R16 PCD: 4×100 DIA: 60.1, 6.0×16 ET41, but in reality the car has R16 wheels with an offset of ET50.
The technical staff at the officials (Boravto on Ostuzhev in Voronezh) did not say anything intelligible. Lada (“Lada”) is a brand of cars produced by AvtoVAZ JSC. Previously, it was used only for export cars, and for the domestic market, cars were produced under the Zhiguli brand. In 2022, the management of AvtoVAZ announced the transition to the Latin alphabet for the official spelling of the names of all cars produced by the plant: Lada - instead of "VAZ" and "Lada".
Inspection of high voltage wire
Often the Priora stalls when accelerating due to a malfunction of the ignition system. This is especially true for the condition of the high voltage cable suitable for the spark plug. To inspect it, you will need to remove the tip placed on the candle. The structure of a high-voltage wire is as follows: the central core of the wire is located in the winding. The tip that fits onto the candle has a durable metal penny. The main purpose of this element is to transmit current to the spark plug.
The core of the high-voltage wire should fit as tightly as possible to the “penny” of the steel tip, which is put on the spark plug. Due to aging, contact between this element and the wire may be lost due to oxidation of the metal. The result was a triple formation. The oxidation of the contacts is checked as follows: with the second probe of the multimeter, touch the central core of the high-voltage wire; if the core of the high-voltage wire has burned out along its entire length, then you can identify such a section using a special multimeter tip.
The wire is pierced to detect the affected area every 5-10 mm. If such a section is detected, it is cut off if the length of the high-voltage wire allows. Otherwise, it must be replaced.
Reason 1 – spark plugs
Spark plugs are the first thing to check when the Priora jerks while driving. If they were rarely changed and the car was filled with low-quality fuel, carbon deposits could appear on the electrodes. This leads to misfires, as a result of which the car begins to twitch while driving.
The cost of candles for Priora varies greatly depending on the manufacturer. The simplest ones cost 250 rubles for four pieces.
You can change it yourself if you have a spark plug wrench, or contact service. The service costs from 400 rubles depending on the technical center.
Also read: Don’t be shy: who should buy a used Daewoo Matiz
Jerks when moving
The moment the car starts moving, most often there is a failure. Unpleasant sensations are associated with a delay in the engine's response to pressing the accelerator pedal. In some cases, the engine stalls. A jerk occurs when the throttle valve opens, when, based on a signal from its position sensor, the ECU determines the moment of transition from cold mode to load mode. This is aimed at increasing the amount of fuel supplied through the injectors. Due to insufficient pressure in the fuel line, there is not enough fuel to move the Lada Priora smoothly.
For this reason, the car stalls when accelerating. In this case, the electronic control unit of the engine, having received a message from the throttle position sensor about the intensive opening of the damper at a large angle, strives to increase the fuel supply as much as possible. This is impossible to do due to low fuel pressure.
During steady motion, jerking is caused by a malfunction of the ignition system. In this situation, the vehicle will need to be diagnosed and repaired. If this problem occurs on the road, then auto mechanics advise Lada Priora owners to follow these steps:
Maximum acceleration of Lada
- inspect the space under the hood - turn off the ignition, and then check that the wiring harness blocks are securely attached to the ignition coils. You need to start the engine, listening to its operation: the crackling sound during a high voltage breakdown is weak, but clear. In complete darkness, a spark should be visible upon breakdown,
- Replace spark plugs regardless of mileage and condition. You need to pay attention to the condition of the spark plugs: if it is abnormal, then you will need to repair the engine or its elements. Causes jerking during steady movement of Lada with an injector, a possibly faulty throttle position sensor. Additional reasons confirming the malfunction of this unit are: uneven operation of the engine at idle, reduction in maximum engine power.
Why are gears shifting poorly?
The automatic transmission also has a button on the mode shift lever with the inscription O/D OFF. When it is turned on, the inclusion is prohibited, increasing the gears of the analogue of the 5th gear of the manual transmission. That is, if your automatic machine has 4 gears for moving forward, then for more dynamic acceleration it will use only three lower gears.
Foamed oil has more volume. Therefore, checking the oil will show the level is too high. If you find that the oil level has risen for no apparent reason, you need to turn off the engine and let the oil settle. After this, check the level again. If it turns out to be low, you need to safely add the required amount and repeat the test.
Signs of engine tripping
Regardless of the reasons, engine tripping is associated with the presence of various problems, which can be solved after finding out what caused the stoppage of one of the cylinders of the internal combustion engine.
The main signs of engine tripping include
| № | Signs |
| 1 | uneven operation at idle, as well as shaking of the engine |
| 2 | darkening of one of the spark plugs |
| 3 | change in exhaust sound |
| 4 | poor acceleration dynamics of Priors at any speed |
| 5 | increased fuel consumption |
| 6 | floating speed, displayed on the tachometer by jerking the arrow |
| 7 | jerking when accelerating or driving |
Auto mechanics identify several reasons why jerking occurs and the engine begins to stall. The main ones are: incorrect ignition timing, faulty spark plugs and installed condenser, broken piston rings, piston and valve burnout, rocker wear, clogged air filter, and others.
The cause of the jerking must be sought in the cylinders
To reduce the search for the cause of engine tripping, it is recommended to determine which cylinders are not working correctly or have stopped functioning. To do this, you will need to remove the high-voltage wire from the spark plugs one by one. This procedure must be performed carefully, as there is a risk of electric shock. Before performing this work, you will need to place a dielectric base in the form of rubber or wood under your feet. It is recommended to remove by the wire. Then the engine speed increases to 1500 rpm. The valves are removed from the cylinders one by one. If the sound of the vehicle changes when removed, then the cylinder is working correctly. Otherwise, it must be replaced.
Air leaks and sensors
As you know, the injection engine is equipped with an electronic engine control system (ECM), which completely controls the operation of the power unit. This system is actually multiple sensors and a controller (ECU). Based on sensor readings, the control unit adjusts the SOP, increases or decreases the amount of fuel supplied, prepares a fuel-air mixture that will be optimal for a particular engine operating mode, etc.
If the signal is incorrect, then fuel supply may not be implemented correctly. In this case, a failure appears, which the driver feels in the form of a delay in pressing the gas, that is, a failure. Note that such failures are especially relevant on those cars with an “electronic” gas pedal. In other words, there is no direct connection to the throttle body.
Let us also add that the throttle valve must be cleaned periodically, and also on many cars it is necessary to carry out the procedure for adapting the throttle valve after cleaning this element. To avoid problems, experienced drivers clean the throttle valve at least once a year. This procedure is performed for preventive purposes.
In garage conditions, when there is no diagnostic equipment, checking electronic sensors is carried out by elimination; a multimeter tester is used for diagnostics.
- As for air leaks, this phenomenon may well lead to jerks and failures during acceleration. If excess air is sucked in somewhere, then the ECU loses the ability to correctly determine the amount of air entering the engine.
As a result, the mixture of fuel and air will be prepared incorrectly; instead of a power-rich “rich” mixture, a lean working mixture will be supplied to the cylinders. The suction may occur at the intake, and problems in the fuel supply system are also possible. In any case, depressurization requires immediate detection of the problem area.
