Engine 2106 shoots into the carburetor reason

The carburetor on the nine is a capricious thing. Sometimes he presents extremely unpleasant surprises to his owners. In general, it doesn’t even matter whether it’s a Solex or a standard VAZ carburetor. Difficulties arise even with expensive and modern ones. Drivers often notice that on a VAZ 2109 car the carburetor shoots.

What is this connected with? And does that mean you need it urgently? Carburetor repair may not be necessary if you find the causes of the malfunction in time and eliminate them by replacing worn parts. Let's broaden our horizons, gentlemen, car enthusiasts. VAZ cars sometimes delight us with their reliability, but still, let’s be realistic. The domestic carburetor does not last forever, and can also fail. Which often happens. Sometimes it is enough to replace the filters; in other cases, you need to completely disassemble the VAZ 2109 carburetor.

When you disassemble a VAZ 2109 carburetor, faults become visible to the naked eye. After this, you may need it. Well-done cleaning and flushing of the VAZ 2109 carburetor, done on time, can seriously extend the life of the carburetor on your car. The correct one prevents many. Taking good care of the carburetor will extend its service life, as well as the life expectancy of the car itself. Don't forget that this depends on many factors, including the quality of the fuel.

What is it and how to deal with it? If dips appear when accelerating, this may be caused, for example, by problems with the accelerator pump. Check for air leaks under the carburetor of your car. Check the air filter; clogging can cause many problems in the carburetor.

And when it is carried out, it needs to be checked. When you are convinced that everything indicated is in order and the gas line is working properly, you can continue the diagnostics. Next on the list of possible candidates is the accelerator pump.

This should also be checked. The carburetor damper may not open completely when the choke is turned off. VAZ carburetors are a thin mechanism. Sometimes people simply can’t stand it and buy a new one without understanding the reasons for the malfunction that led to failure. In general, in fact, failure of the VAZ 2109 carburetor when pressing the gas pedal is one of the very common symptoms on Nines. For convenience, we invite you to watch a video where a specialist demonstrates how to solve the problem of starting failure: Another video recorded by Nail Poroshin about failures when pressing the gas pedal: Check the fuel level.

This could also be one of the reasons: Using a gas pump, you pump up gasoline. Remove the cover from the carburetor. Measure the level. It should not exceed 26 mm.

We check the gap between the floats and the gasket with the cover upside down, it is 1 mm. After this, the tightness of the needle valve is checked. If all this does not result and you cannot determine the reason, we advise you to take the car to a car service center.

A fairly common problem with carburetor cars is the characteristic popping noise in the carburetor. The malfunction may occur when the engine starts and fires into the carburetor, as well as during operation of the internal combustion engine after the power unit has been started. At the very beginning, we note that experts consider the main reasons to be a severe depletion of the fuel-air mixture, ignition timing, or malfunctions of the gas distribution mechanism associated with incorrectly set phases.

As for the CIS, most carburetor cars on the roads are Russian-made models. Next, we will look at problems when a VAZ engine shoots into the carburetor, why a 406 engine shoots into the carburetor, and also talk about how to detect and fix such malfunctions with your own hands.

Read in this article

Causes of “shots”, “pops” and flashes in the carburetor

High voltage cables are not connected correctly. In this case, the spark will not occur during compression, but on other strokes, since the sequence of operation of the engine cylinders is not followed. It happens that the engine appears periodically. In this case, the solution to the problem is to reinstall the wires from the spark plugs into the distributor cover. You need to start from the installation mark counterclockwise in the following order: 1-3-4-2.
Late ignition. Late ignition is when the spark jumps too late on the compression stroke, and combustion of the working mixture occurs throughout the entire power stroke, and not during compression. When the intake valves open, the fuel mixture is still burning and ignites a new portion.
Faulty ignition distributor. This problem can lead to problems with the operation of the motor in all modes. It also happens that “shooting” is provoked by weak fastening of the holder. Here it is important to understand the cause of the problem in time, and also replace the distributor with a new and working one.
The problem is in the ignition system switch. In this case, you just need to replace the switch with a new one. Repairing it is pointless and expensive; it is better to buy a new one and install it.
The timing belt has moved 1-2 teeth. Often this problem occurs when changing the motor. The solution requires reinstalling the timing belt. This can be done if you follow the instructions, but it is better, of course, to seek help from specialists.
Lean fuel system. If such a system enters the engine, then flashes and sparks are natural. The solution to the problem is to check the fuel fluid in the float chamber. You also need to check the cleanliness of the air and fuel jets. You can also clean the carburetor with a special solution. If the problem persists, you need to check whether the accelerator pump is working properly.
The intake valve is burnt out. If the plate is not pressed well against the valve, sparks will appear. It is quite possible that it burned out or sagged over time. Using a compression gauge you can identify the malfunction. If there is a problem, you need to remove the cylinder head and replace it with a new one.
Small recesses in the valve device. It happens that when repairing a motor, the recesses are made too small so that it creates less noise during operation. However, because of this, the plates do not fit tightly to the seats, which leads to shots in the carburetor. To eliminate the malfunction, you need to check and adjust the gaps.

The starter works, the engine starts and then stalls

In some situations, the car owner cannot start the engine of his “six” even if the starter is working properly. It looks like this: after turning the ignition key, the starter makes two or three turns, the engine “seizes”, but literally stalls a second later. This happens because of this:

The fuel pump is not working properly. The situation is simple: very little fuel is supplied to the combustion chamber, and literally after one engine stroke the supply of the fuel mixture stops. There is only one way out: remove the pump, disassemble it and carefully inspect it for wear and mechanical damage. If the problem is really in it, change it;
the fuel line is clogged. This is another reason why little fuel mixture enters the combustion chambers of the “six”. It's no secret that the quality of gasoline in our country leaves much to be desired. Modern gasoline contains a lot of foreign impurities, which are gradually deposited on a variety of surfaces - from the inner walls of combustion chambers to fuel pipes. If the fuel pump and starter are working properly, but the car still won’t start, then it’s time to remove and clean the fuel line. This is best done using ordinary kerosene;
one or more injectors are clogged. If checking the fuel pump and fuel pipes does not lead to anything, there is one more option: unscrew and check the injectors. They keep getting clogged because of the same low-quality gasoline. And when clogged, they wash everything in the same kerosene;
armored wire closure. If no problems have been identified with the fuel supply system, but the car still does not start, you should pay attention to the ignition system, and in particular, to the so-called armored pipes. If the integrity of the insulation of one or more wires is broken, and the insulation at the damage site turns black, then there is a short circuit. A spark plug with a damaged wire cannot produce a spark normally, as a result the engine stalls before it can start. There is only one way out of this situation: purchasing and installing a new set of spark plug wires;

Video: poor engine starting in summer due to accumulation of gasoline vapors

General manifestation of the malfunction

Popping noises in the carburetor may appear under the following circumstances:

after engine repair;
there was an accident or a pothole on the road;
tuning or simply adjustment of the carburetor was carried out;
the car has high mileage.

In this case, a malfunction may occur in the following cases:

when you press hard on the gas pedal;
after parking, with a cold engine;
on the go under load;
when trying to start the engine.

Depending on the reason that caused the carburetor to shoot, popping noises can appear either abruptly or gradually, increasing in intensity daily. Operating a car when the engine sneezes into the carburetor, in addition to discomfort for the driver, can lead to the need for major engine repairs.

Distributor

This unit is also capable of causing untimely and improper ignition of the fuel mixture in the engine cylinders. Malfunctions of the ignition distributor include breakdown of the cover, breakdown of the slider, and oxidation of the contacts of the explosive wires.

To determine whether the distributor is the cause of popping noises in the VAZ carburetor, install a known-good unit. If the lumbago disappears, then you need to diagnose the distributor and troubleshoot it. This is the only way to get rid of pops.

Featured Posts

Hurik

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Car make: VAZ21063
From:Donetsk

Hello. I have a VAZ21063 with a contact ignition Solex carburetor, the car started shooting at the carburetor when the 2-chamber was opened. I myself understand the ignition and the carburetor. I washed, blew out the carburetor, rebuilt the trampler, adjusted the valves, set the ignition, checked the compression to 10 in all, changed the spark plugs and wires, none of the above helped. Help who can.

Susanin33

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Car make: VAZ – 21093
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Help who can.

lean mixture, early ignition, insufficient closing of the intake valve

Protva

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Car make:Chevrolet Lanos SX
From: south Mos. region

I'll add a blown gasket between the manifold and the head.

zhigalo

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Car make: VAZ 2107
From:Kostanay

Did you set the distributor according to the marks?

Hurik

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Car make: VAZ21063
From:Donetsk

lean mixture, early ignition, insufficient closing of the intake valve

I changed the 2-carb plus adjusted it, set the ignition earlier and later, checked the valves twice, measured the compression at 10 in all. Nothing has changed.

Hurik

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Car make: VAZ21063
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I'll add a blown gasket between the manifold and the head.

the engine runs fine at XX, the tasol does not go away, the spark plugs c1-4 are red, the engine does not run louder. The car began to shoot at the carburetor when opening the 2nd chamber. What is the problem with the gasket between the manifold and the head????

Hurik

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Did you set the distributor according to the marks?

Yes, according to the marks.

Susanin33

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Yes, according to the marks.

vacuum advancer

Hurik

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vacuum advancer

The vacuum corrector was checked to be normal, I even tried turning it off, no change.

Protva

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spark plugs s1-4 red

It is better to replace spark plugs with red insulator. Over time, they begin to break through to ground.

Sorrel

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I’ll get into the conversation, try to pull out the choke a little, and you’ll go for a ride. It’s quite possible that he’ll stop shooting, if he stops I’ll tell you what’s going on next))) If he continues to shoot, I won’t be able to do anything to help. And even if the car is warmed up, still open the choke a little while driving.

Hurik

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From:Donetsk

I’ll get into the conversation, try to pull out the choke a little, and you’ll go for a ride. It’s quite possible that he’ll stop shooting, if he stops I’ll tell you what’s going on next))) If he continues to shoot, I won’t be able to do anything to help. And even if the car is warmed up, still open the choke a little while driving.

The choke really helps and the engine stops firing! what’s the matter??? share your guesses, is it really possible that the carb is fucking brains....?

Protva

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It's also interesting to know what the reason is. I can only assume that somewhere... I won’t guess. Waiting for Sorrel

Hurik

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It is better to replace spark plugs with red insulator. Over time, they begin to break through to ground.

The spark plugs have nothing to do with it, I changed the same canoe.

Sorrel

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Car make: VAZ 21093
From:Russia

Do you have a temperature regulator? Today I personally encountered popping noises (in Moscow today it was -12), all this was due to the supply of Cold air, (I didn’t have a thermostat on the 9th) I installed it, the popping noises disappeared. So the problem with popping noises is that Pts gets into the carburetor. cold air. check the thermostat, maybe it hasn’t been working for a long time...

VAZochnik

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If five carburetors have already been changed and there are no changes, then the problem is not with them (c).

In my opinion, you need to completely change the SZ distributor + coil. Take known good ones and see what changes. Start by replacing the coil; if that doesn’t help, change the distributor assembly.

I had a similar problem - that in the end it hurt - no one could explain. Some shouted that the capacitor on the distributor was broken, others that its bearing was jammed... It ended with the transition to BSZ. The troubles are over.

Motorist

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Car make: VAZ 21074, Java 638.
From: g. Pavlovo

In the winter, with the air cap turned off, my air pump would stall for the winter. You drive and drive, and suddenly the engine stalls. You wait for 10 minutes and you can go again. I turned the lid to winter time and that was it. And SZ has nothing to do with it. This is the same as trying to eliminate rear axle noise by changing the pump bearing.

n1ger

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Idk... I drove around all winter with the switch turned off =)

and now the pan has been sawn apart =) it doesn’t seem to stall or fire...

although... there is... it happens... the scolex began to shoot (rarely, really, very rarely). I didn't notice this with ozone.

Hurik

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From:Donetsk

Idk... I've been driving around all winter with the switch not turned =)
but now the pan has been sawn apart =) it doesn't seem to stall or fire...
although... there is... it happens... the scolex began to shoot (rarely, really, very rarely). I didn't notice this with ozone.

What kind of Solex, and what kind of jets are they?

n1ger

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Car make:VAZik 21043
From: Saldyukino

Solex 83-51... rebuilt =D

top from 83 regular, bottom from 83-51. I bored out the diffusers to 2324. I don't remember the jets.

seems like this:

TZh1 107.5 VZh1 150

TZh2 115 VZh2 165

(I can’t find a standard repair kit for 21053-20 =((( )

I installed the current accelerator nose from the Niva and that’s it.

Hurik

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Guys, does anyone have a Solex08 without modifications on the 11th engine, and with what jets? Otherwise I’m stuck... surf the forums, one has some tariffs for jets, another has different ones, huh.. you’ll understand which ones are needed. I have

GTZH 1.K-97.5 GTZH 2.K-97.5 GVZH 1.K165 GVZH 2.K125

Hurik

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AU...... Is it really possible that 518 people who read the topic cannot answer the last question asked!!!!!!!!!!!

Radio technician

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What does carb have to do with it? The chain is ground off faster and the phases are delayed. This includes closing the intake valve during early ignition. They put it on early because the engine doesn't work (?).

Hurik

Newbie
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Car make: VAZ21063
From:Donetsk

What does carb have to do with it? The chain is ground off faster and the phases are delayed. This includes closing the intake valve during early ignition. They put it on early because the engine doesn't work (?).

My friend, you didn’t understand me, the problem with shooting into the carb was solved by increasing the valve clearance. Now the problem is the following, I recently installed a Solex 08 since my native ozone has worn out in 21 years, the jets on the Solex are as follows

GTZh 1.K-97.5 GTZh 2.K-97.5 GVZh 1.K165 GVZh 2.K125, at xx the engine is like a clock, on the 1st chamber it runs great, but on the 2nd chamber the car becomes stupid, jerks and there is no acceleration. Carb soap was blowing through the effect 0. What's the matter? Maybe the level in the PC or the jets is not what it should be?

ivan65

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Car make: VAZ 2107
From: Rostov

It is necessary to adjust the fuel pump pusher (either it sticks out a little or is worn out, if it is worn out, replace it with a new one) and this will most likely help. As a rule, the malfunction is on the surface - you just need to think about it.

Let's analyze situations for different cars

Now let’s look at the causes of the malfunction in relation to certain car models:

VAZ 2106, VAZ 2109.

And other representatives of the domestic automobile industry are susceptible to the appearance of shots in the muffler. A common cause is a misconfiguration in the ignition system.

The spark fires, but with a delay, at the moment the exhaust valve opens, and not at the moment of greatest compression.

The result is that part of the combustible mixture ends up in the manifold.

The reasons may be the following:

Incorrect advance angle adjustment;
Failure of the ignition module;
Weak spark;
Incorrect installation of wires on spark plugs;
Failures in timing settings;
Belt stretching and slipping in the timing system.

If shots in the muffler appear when the gas is pressed in VAZ 2106 and VAZ 2109 cars (at low speeds), the cause may be a violation of the valve clearance.

In its absence, part of the fuel ends up in the collector, and the consequences in question become inevitable. The solution to the problem is to replace the valves or adjust them.

For cars of the brands in question with an injector, this problem is also typical, but it appears less frequently.

A common cause is a timing fault, incorrect ignition setting, or thermal gap failure.

Here it is recommended to check the correct operation of the sensors and the quality of the contact connections.

If these elements do not function correctly, the ECU system will not be able to distribute fuel correctly.

To identify such a problem, it is recommended to contact specialists at a service station.

VAZ 2114, VAZ 2115, injector.

Why does the muffler shoot but the engine won't start? If a breakdown is detected, it is recommended to start with the spark plugs and blow them out by cranking the starter and firing the gas to the floor.

The next step is to check the performance of the DPKV. The algorithm is as follows:

Dismantle the device and perform an external inspection. Suspicion should be caused by damage to the housing, core, sensor or terminal block. The wire connections must be clean. If there is dirt on the contacts, they can be removed using an alcohol-gasoline mixture. The result of the work should be complete cleaning of dirt and dust.
Check the active resistance of the DPKV. Measurements are made between the first and second contacts on the sensor block. For measurements, you can use a special voltmeter or multimeter. The optimal resistance is 550-700 Ohms. It is advisable to do the test at room temperature (20-22 degrees Celsius). When determining the final result, it is important to take into account the instrument error.
Measure the inductance of the winding between the same contacts. It should be 250-420 mH.
Make sure that the insulation between the terminals and the core of the device is at an optimal level. A 500 V megohmmeter is used for measurement. The nominal resistance is about 20 MΩ.

During braking by the ZMZ 402 engine, shots are heard in the muffler.

In such a situation, it is worth starting ignition checks and paying attention to the distributor. You can crawl through the hole of the latter and bend the whiskers, which will increase the tension of the springs.

The problem may arise if the car is parked on the street for a long time. Here's what you need to do:

Check the contact breaker - make sure that the gap between the contacts is normal and that they are clean.
If there is an electronic switch on the machine, it is worth checking it. If you suspect that the device is broken, you should install a known-good device.
Check the distributor for the presence of moisture, which may accumulate under the cover during long-term parking.
Make sure the wires are intact. If you suspect they are damaged, you should install a silicone connection.

Some car owners “sin” with the carburetor, but in ZMZ 402 engines it is rarely the cause of “shooting”.

Most often we are talking about misfires, so special attention should be paid to the ignition system.

One of the likely causes is contamination of the breaker contacts. After cleaning them, the problem should be resolved.

Why does it shoot at the muffler on a UAZ?

Owners of cars from the Ulyanovsk plant are also faced with the problem of shots fired during the start-up and movement of the car.

The reasons may be as follows:

Early ignition;
Malfunction of the distributor;
Increased slider play;
Large valve clearance or burnout.

Of the listed reasons, the most common are ignition problems.

There is another assumption - malfunction of the spark plugs due to the formation of water condensation on the high-voltage wires or under the distributor cover.

The spark hits the ground, and fuel floods the electrodes. In such a situation, it is necessary to change the spark plugs, distributor cap and wires. In 90% of cases the problem is solved and the motor runs without problems.

If the engine runs normally when cold with the choke tightened, this indicates the absence of failures.

There may be cases when the car “sneezes” when stopped. Here we can conclude about failures in the operation of the twentieth century system, as well as failures in the transition system.

There are two more possible reasons:

The fuel level has dropped to a minimum, and the car pulls poorly even on choke.
Small current on the ignition coil, due to poor contact or the presence of additional resistance.

Why does it shoot into the muffler on Gazelle cars?

The general reason is one - the fuel does not burn completely. There are several options:

The mixture is too rich. To fix the problem, you need to press the gas several times while parking.
Misfires. If this problem is present, the silencer will shoot constantly.
Late ignition. Here, additional symptoms will be increased consumption, engine overheating or decreased power.

If the popping noise occurs not when you press the gas, but when you release it, the fuel mixture is too saturated with oxygen.

It is worth checking the operation of the octane corrector, and replacing the old carburetor tubes with silicone analogues. Often rubber products are damaged and it is not possible to find the fault.

Another possible problem is a slippage of the rod in the distributor. To check this fact, you need to remove the tube and create a vacuum with your mouth.

At this moment, you should look at the distributor - it should rotate, and when released, it should click.

Concurrent symptoms

As a rule, the situation is accompanied by a number of other signs:

unstable operation of the internal combustion engine in idle mode;
difficulty starting;
loss of power and throttle response of the power unit;
rapid overheating of the motor;
increase in fuel consumption.

Note also that in such a situation the car accelerates poorly. When you press the accelerator pedal, jerks, dips, and delays appear. The car jerks a lot, especially in transition modes. The power plant does not so much work as “sneeze.”

Can a bang in the muffler damage the engine?

Shots in the exhaust system are considered a consequence of failures in engine adjustment and a violation of its settings.

This indicates the need to check three systems - ignition, timing and fuel supply.

If you delay repairs, there is a high risk of engine damage.

Untimely restoration can lead to damage to the integrity of the valves, malfunction of the exhaust system, and even a car fire.

The only positive aspect of “sneezing” is the ability to detect a malfunction in advance and take action.

During the repair process, a comprehensive check of the internal combustion engine, adjustments and installation of new consumables are often necessary.

High voltage wires

When carrying out repairs affecting the ignition system, the high-voltage wires may be connected incorrectly. In this case, the spark will not occur in time with the compression cycle, resulting in popping sounds. Even if the engine starts, its power is not enough to move the car.

To diagnose a malfunction, you should check the connection of the wires from the spark plugs to the distributor. You should push off from the mark located on the cover. The connection of high-voltage wires must correspond to the car model. For example, the location of high-voltage wires in the VAZ 2109 is shown below.

Correct connection of high-voltage wires VAZ 2109

Starter does not turn

The most common reason why a VAZ 2106 refuses to start is usually related to the starter of this car. Sometimes the starter categorically refuses to rotate after turning the key in the ignition. This is why:

The battery has run out. The first thing an experienced V6 owner checks is the condition of the battery. This is very simple to do: you need to turn on the low beam headlights and see if they shine brightly. If the battery is very low, the headlights will shine very dimly or not at all. The solution is obvious: you should remove the battery from the car and charge it using a portable charger;
one of the terminals is oxidized or poorly screwed. If there is no contact at the battery terminals or this contact is very weak due to oxidation of the contacting surfaces, the starter will not rotate either. In this case, the low beam headlights can shine normally, and all the lights on the instrument panel will light up properly. But there is not enough charge to crank the starter. Solution: after each unscrewing of the terminals, they should be thoroughly cleaned with fine sandpaper, and then a thin layer of lithol should be applied to the contact surfaces. This will protect the terminals from oxidation, and problems with the starter will no longer arise;

Video: a common problem with the starter on a “classic”

Why does it shoot at the silencer?

The main reason that the engine shoots into the muffler is unburned fuel that has entered the exhaust system and ignited in it. The more gasoline leaks out, the louder the bang will be, and in some cases there may even be a whole series of “shots.” In turn, fuel can enter the exhaust system for various reasons. These could be malfunctions of the carburetor, timing belt, ignition system, various sensors (on injection machines) and so on.

The situation when someone shoots into the exhaust pipe can occur under different circumstances. For example, when over-accelerating, at idle speed of the engine or when relieving gas. As a rule, when there is a bang, a large amount of smoke . This malfunction is also accompanied by additional symptoms - loss of engine power, floating idle speed, increased fuel consumption. Let's look at the reasons why the muffler shoots in order, as well as methods for troubleshooting.

Disturbances in the operation of the gas distribution mechanism

This is one of the reasons why the carburetor shoots. Let's look at it in more detail. So, if the engine starts with characteristic pops and shots in the carburetor, then you can suspect that the valve timing is off. The timing belt has jumped one or more teeth. If the phases have shifted by several teeth, then the motor can work. If they have moved more significantly, then the valves can be bent.

Why does the Ural shoot at the carburetor? Among the reasons why a belt can jump are the following. When repairing the engine, the pulleys were incorrectly aligned, the belt has low tension, the car has been in an accident, the timing elements are heavily worn.

You can diagnose why the UAZ carburetor is shooting and whether the timing belt is the cause by checking the timing marks on the crankshaft pulley and the cylinder block body. If the phases have shifted, then eliminating this fault depends on how much they have shifted. Sometimes only minor adjustments to the timing are enough.

If the phases have shifted, you should not attempt to start the engine. Do not press the accelerator pedal. You can try to start the power unit when the installation marks are set correctly and the reason that caused the jump has been eliminated.

Starting the engine will be accompanied by shots into the carburetor if the timing phases are out of whack, that is, the drive has jumped several teeth. In this case, if the shift is 1-2 teeth, the engine will be able to operate, but there will be a loss of power. But with a significant timing shift, the valves can be damaged. In this case, you cannot do without engine repair.

Reasons that cause shift of the gas distribution mechanism drive:

when performing repair work on the engine, the phases are inattentively set;
belt replacement;
low tension, sufficient to cause slippage;
the car gets into an accident or a pothole;
Excessive wear of timing elements.

Mixture composition

If the engine is supplied with a too lean or rich mixture, then shooting is also possible. This situation may arise if the carburetor has been adjusted. Incorrect installation of the quality screw leads to incorrect preparation of the air-fuel mixture.

When operating on a lean mixture, the mixture burns slowly. When the intake valve opens, fuel continues to burn out. It ignites a new combustible mixture. Combustion occurs in the intake manifold and the engine shoots into the carburetor. At the same time, an increase in engine temperature is observed.

When working with an enriched mixture, black carbon deposits form on the electrodes. If there is enough plaque and a high temperature, it can ignite the air-fuel mixture at the wrong time. This causes the carburetor to pop as the intake valve is open at this time. This malfunction only appears when the engine is warm. Gradually the engine sneezes more and more often. A significant drop in power in this case is extremely rare.

For diagnosis, you should inspect the spark plugs. The presence of a white color indicates operation on a lean mixture. Black plaque, on the contrary, indicates over-enrichment.

To eliminate the malfunction, the carburetor should be inspected. If adjustment does not help, then flushing is required. You should also be careful about the fuel purchased at gas stations.

Poor starting of the VAZ 2107 engine in the cold season

Almost all the problems with the VAZ 2106 engine listed above are typical for the warm season. Poor starting of the “six” engine in winter should be discussed separately. The main reason for this phenomenon is obvious: frost. Due to the low temperature, the engine oil thickens, as a result, the starter simply cannot crank the crankshaft at a high enough speed. In addition, the oil in the gearbox also thickens. Yes, when the engine starts, the car is usually in neutral gear. But on it, the shafts in the gearbox are also rotated by the engine. And if the oil thickens, these shafts create a load on the starter. To prevent this from happening, you need to fully depress the clutch when the engine starts. Even if the car is in neutral gear. This will take the load off the starter and speed up the start of a cold engine. There are a number of other typical problems due to which the engine cannot start in cold weather. Let's list them:

There is another way to start a hopelessly frozen car: use the so-called starting fluid.

Late and early ignition

With late ignition, combustion of the air-fuel mixture occurs throughout the entire power stroke. When the intake valve opens, the burning old mixture ignites fresh fuel. The engine overheats significantly during such operation. Popping noises can be observed not only in the carburetor, but also in the muffler.

For diagnostics, it is recommended to check the set ignition timing and, if necessary, adjust it. Whitened spark plug electrodes serve as indirect evidence of late ignition.

If the spark appears too early, the fuel will not ignite in a timely manner. In this case, the intake valve does not have time to close, and the combustible mixture inside the intake manifold ignites.

Particular attention should be paid to the OZ if work was carried out to repair the ignition system. It is required to produce the moment of sparking. The ignition timing is adjusted by turning the distributor relative to the scale.

Inspection of the ignition timing

Ignition timing

Now let's figure out how late ignition affects it.

Another reason that fuel explodes in the muffler is due to ignition problems.

To confirm or exclude this assumption, it is necessary to check the correct setting of the timing in the ignition system. If the latter is set up late, shots cannot be avoided.

This is due to the fact that the spark fires with a delay, already at the moment the exhaust valve opens. As a result, a certain volume of fuel ends up in the collector.

If you ignore the problem, there is a high risk of burning out the valves and exhaust pipe.

If there are no problems with the ignition, and it is configured correctly, shots still appear at the moment of starting or driving.

The reasons may be the following:

Weak spark.
Bad wire contacts.
Malfunction in the distributor or contact group.

One of the reasons for the deterioration in spark quality is a problem with the spark plugs, so you need to unscrew each of them one by one and check the quality of the contacts.

The muffler may still fire due to an incorrectly selected spark plug heat rating.

Carburetor not tuned

Often the reason that the engine shoots into the muffler is an incorrectly configured carburetor. Its task is to create a fuel-air mixture, which is then supplied to the engine. If it is configured in such a way that the mixture is oversaturated with gasoline, a situation similar to that described above is created. The solution here is to check and adjust the “carb”.

The first step is to check the fuel level in the chamber where the float is located. Each carburetor is individually adjusted and has its own level. However, if its cover is removed, the float should be flush with the level of the cover. If this is not the case, adjust the level. Also be sure to check the integrity of the float . If it is damaged, fuel may leak into it, causing it to display the level incorrectly.

The reason that the carburetor shoots into the muffler may also be the jets. They are either configured incorrectly or become clogged over time. If the air jet does not supply enough air, the mixture becomes oversaturated with gasoline with the result described above. Often this malfunction occurs when the engine goes from idle to higher speeds, or with a sharp increase in speed (acceleration). It is necessary to check the condition of the jets and clean them if necessary.

Air/fuel ratio	Description	A comment
6/1 — 7/1	Extremely rich mixture. Ignition failure.	Rich mixture. Long burning, low temperature.
7/1 — 12/1	Overrich mixture.
12/1 — 13/1	Rich mixture. Maximum power.
13/1 — 14,7/1	Slightly enriched mixture.	Normal mixture.
14,7/1	Chemically ideal ratio.
14,7/1 — 16/1	Slightly lean mixture.
16/1 — 18/1	Poor mixture. Maximum efficiency.	Poor mixture. Fast combustion, high temperature.
18/1 — 20/1	Over-lean mixture.
20/1 — 22/1	Extremely lean mixture. Ignition failure.

The most common problems with the carburetor

If you have been driving a VAZ 2109 for a long time, then you have probably already encountered a similar problem when the car starts perfectly if there is gasoline in the tank, but if you forgot to refuel on time and reached the pump at zero, then problems with ignition may arise. Also, after a “hunger strike,” the car may simultaneously make unusual sounds that come from the carburetor.

There may be several reasons for such a breakdown:

long idle time of VAZ 2109 (more than 1.5 years);
the ignition is set crookedly (not according to the marks);
rust in the carburetor (iron oxide molecules flake off in microscopic compounds and enter the thin outlet, and this happens regularly and cleaning helps temporarily);
clogged fuel supply filter (poor quality fuel);
clogged jets or fuel needle valve of the float chamber cover.

When the carburetor starts to “sneeze”, problems with the float and jets may also appear. This is accompanied by poor acceleration, or difficult starting, or all combined. In this case, the engine can run at idle speed, but if you try to give high speed it will stall. Most often this happens due to incorrect float settings or the appearance of rust on the parts of the VAZ 2109 carburetor.

Let's start with rust. You can detect it in several ways:

A rusty mass similar to plasticine at the bottom of the float chamber;
Torn jet ring;
Normal hard rust on the inside of the float chamber.

All this leads to corrosive material entering the nozzle when the car is moving, and it simply becomes clogged. In this case, it is necessary to remove the rust, then rinse the carburetor with gasoline or another cleaning solution, replace the rusted rings, blow out the jets and the car will be ready for work.

A small amount of gasoline in the tank also has a negative effect, for example, when driving a car with a frequently burning “red light,” the float may jam and the fuel supply will stop altogether, or, on the contrary, consumption will increase several times. In this case, the best option would be to tow the car to the nearest box and adjust the float.

The float may go astray in other cases. This also leads to a loss of vehicle power and increased fuel consumption. It is best to contact an injector for quality adjustments. But you can cope on your own. As soon as you notice that your car begins to consume more fuel, you know that it is the carburetor.

Diagnostics

You can diagnose the condition of the engine and the operation of the fuel system using spark plugs. If the center electrode of the spark plug is white, this indicates that the engine is running on a lean mixture. If the carbon deposits are black and dry, then this indicates a rich mixture.

To eliminate this problem, it is recommended to adjust the carburetor. It is better to use a gas analyzer, since settings that rely on human senses do not always give the desired result. In addition, you need to choose a gas station before buying fuel - sometimes black deposits can form due to the quality of gasoline.

The starter turns, but the engine does not start

This kind of trouble usually happens due to a broken timing belt. It is this element of the VAZ-2106 that the owner needs to look at first of all. If suspicions are confirmed, then it will have to be replaced with a new one. When the belt is intact, then look further - the reason may be a faulty spark plug or fuel pump.

activate the ignition;
wait until the starter rotates 7-10 times;
Unscrew and inspect the spark plugs.

When they remain completely dry, this means that gasoline is not entering the combustion chamber, and, therefore, the pump is to blame. Confirm your guess - turn on the ignition again and listen: the functioning pump makes a characteristic hum. Silence indicates a node failure - change it.

The pump on 2106 hums, fuel flows, but the car does not start. Do this:

touch the spark plug to the engine body;
ask someone to turn on the ignition;
If there is no spark, change the entire set.

Switch failure

Typically, a breakdown of the switch makes it impossible to start the engine, so popping noises will be observed when trying to start. To diagnose, just install a new device. If the motor stops firing, then the switch needs to be replaced or repaired. What to do depends on the type of breakdown and the capabilities of the car owner.

Very often this malfunction can be detected at an early stage. The engine speed begins to fluctuate, and when you sharply press the gas pedal, the car accelerates with dips in traction. Small popping noises are heard from the engine compartment.

Incorrect thermal clearance

The thermal gap is the distance by which individual parts of the engine increase in volume when heated. In particular, it is between the valve tappets and the camshaft cams. An incorrectly set thermal gap is one of the possible reasons why the muffler shoots.

Indirect evidence of an increase in the thermal gap may be increased noise during engine operation, as well as a decrease in its power. If the gap is reduced, this may cause gases to shoot into the exhaust pipe. This occurs due to the fact that a valve that is not completely closed allows gasoline to enter the manifold, from where it then enters the exhaust system.

The thermal clearance of the cylinder head valves can be adjusted. Therefore, to eliminate this problem, it is enough to adjust the valves. This procedure is always carried out on a cold engine.

The starter does not want to turn

As practice shows, the most obvious reason that prevents the engine of the 2106 model from starting is the starter. The last unit often does not even try to rotate after the ignition is activated.

This usually happens because the battery is low. The malfunction occurs both when the engine is cold and when it is still hot. An easy way to find out if this is the case is to turn on your headlights. Then it remains to see how brightly they glow. When the batteries are discharged, they light up dimly or do not turn on at all. What to do is clear - put the battery on charge.

Sometimes the problem is caused by improper contact at the battery terminals. Over time, they oxidize and stop conducting current normally, which is why they prevent the starter from working. Wherein:

instrument lighting is functioning;
the headlights are on;
The cigarette lighter does not get hot.

Clean the VAZ-2106 battery terminals with fine sandpaper.

The next reason is a breakdown of the ignition switch. Finding out whether it works or not is quite simple. Disconnect the wires from it and short-circuit them. If the starter spins, then the fault has been found.

The solenoid relay may fail on your VAZ-2106. This is indicated by the following sign: when you turn the key, the starter remains motionless, but clicks are heard. Diagnosis is carried out as follows:

find the relay;
close two contacts equipped with nuts on it;
try starting the car.

The engine starts working, which means the problem is solved.

The starter also stops turning due to:

abrasion of brushes (replace with new ones);
breakdown of winding insulation (buy a new unit).

Faulty timing belt

Malfunctions in the operation of the gas distribution mechanism are generally similar to problems with ignition. In particular, the exhaust valve opens at a time when the gasoline has not yet burned out. Accordingly, it enters the exhaust gas removal system, leading to the already familiar popping sounds in the muffler.

There are several causes of malfunctions in the timing system:

Timing belt wear . A sign of this malfunction is the appearance of additional metallic pops or noises when the engine is running at low speeds. In this case, you need to inspect the belt and, if necessary, tighten or replace it. You can read how to do this in the corresponding material.
Worn toothed pulley . In this case, it is necessary to replace it.
Partial valve failure . Over time, they become covered with soot (especially when refueling the car with low-quality gasoline), which leads to deterioration in the operation of the mechanism. And due to hanging valve springs, the engine overheats. Therefore, it is worth checking the valves. If you find slight roughness or bends on their surface, then grinding them in is a mandatory procedure. If the scratches are significant, you need to polish them or replace the valves.

Usually, if the timing belt is faulty, popping noises in the muffler are heard when the engine is warm . If the engine is “cold”, then they are not there. This is another indirect evidence of the timing's guilt. However, to find out exactly, it is necessary to perform additional diagnostics.

Checking the spark plugs and spark

If the engine does not start within five seconds, there is no use turning the starter. You can try to start it again, but it’s unlikely to help. Moreover, operating the starter for too long can lead to overheating and even fire.

If you try to start a carburetor engine for a long time, gasoline will flood the spark plugs and make further starting attempts impossible in principle. The injectors have a purge mode, so the spark plugs can be dried without removing them from the car - you just need to press the gas pedal to the floor and turn the starter.

But these are half measures. First of all, you should unscrew at least one spark plug, put the wire back on it and position the spark plug on the engine so that there is a distance of about three millimeters between the metal part of the spark plug and the metal of the engine. Turn on the starter and make sure that there is a uniform spark between the spark plug contacts. Do this check for each candle. If there is no spark on any spark plug, then there are global problems in the ignition system.

General faults:

Faulty spark plugs (carbon deposits, destruction of insulator)
The high-voltage wires are faulty (the insulation is broken, the current flows “to the left”, not reaching the spark plug)

For injectors:

Ignition module is faulty
There is no power to the ignition module. Power is supplied from the engine control unit, but the signal to the unit comes from the ignition switch. Therefore, there may be a malfunction of the ignition switch contact group.
Engine control unit faulty

Errors in the ignition control system are usually visible during diagnostics and cause the Check Engine light to turn on.

Contact carbon stuck in the ignition distributor cap (distributor)
Resistor burnout in the distributor rotor (in the distributor runner)
Burning or play of the contact group (for contact ignition)
Switch malfunction (for contactless ignition)
Ignition coil malfunction
No power to the coil. Power is supplied to the coil through the ignition switch, so it is worth checking its contact group

When there is no spark on only one spark plug, you need to replace this spark plug with a new one or change its high-voltage wire. Spark plugs that are too wet should also be replaced with new ones or at least dried in a flame. This is necessary because current will not be able to pass through wet contacts and there will be no spark.

If there is a spark on all spark plugs, check the fuel supply.

Inlet valve

A bent or burnt valve is unable to seal the combustion chamber from the carburetor. Loose pressure of the plate to the seat allows gases to break into the intake manifold. In some cases, the fresh air-fuel mixture ignites.

To diagnose the problem, you need to check the compression. If a cylinder is detected with a suspected combustion chamber leak, it is necessary to fill it with engine oil. This will prevent excessive wear of the cylinder-piston group or sticking of the piston rings. A cylinder with a damaged valve shows the same compression both with and without oil.

To eliminate the malfunction, it is necessary to dismantle the cylinder head and replace the valve. If the valve is bent, it is recommended to check the correct timing of the timing belt. Burnout of the valve with low mileage also requires searching for the cause of this breakdown.

If you have hydraulic boosters, you should also check their operation. Sticking of the hydraulic compensator leads to the same consequences as burnout of the valve. In this case, shooting into the carburetor may not be observed all the time, but during certain periods, for example, when the engine is cold or hot. Very often, car owners complain that they shoot when I start the engine.

Doesn't start in winter

The problems described above mainly occur in the summer, but there are also a number of breakdowns in which the VAZ stops starting in the cold. Here the main reason remains frost. Because of it, in particular, the lubricant thickens, which prevents the crankshaft from rotating normally. A simple trick will help relieve the load - just when you start the engine, squeeze the clutch all the way.

Trouble also arises due to decreased compression in the cylinders. A similar problem is typical for Zhiguli cars with high mileage. This requires a thorough overhaul of the engine under stationary conditions with the obligatory replacement of rings and piston seals.

When you need to at least make it to the garage or service station, do this:

turn out the spark plugs;
pour no more than 5 cubic centimeters of oil (regular motor oil) into the combustion chambers;
crank the starter several times by hand;
put the spark plugs on and start.

If the engine is hopelessly frozen, you will have to use starting fluid - this composition is easy to buy in specialized stores. The substance must be poured directly into the carburetor. To gain access there, unscrew the cap on the air filter.

Sometimes the problem is caused by a weak spark on the spark plugs. On hot summer days, this circumstance does not interfere with starting the engine, but in cold weather the situation changes radically. The problem is created due to poor contact at the terminals of the ignition coil and distributor. Disconnect them, clean them from oxides and dirt.