Checking compression of VAZ 2106
Further, if the engine is stalling, it would be a good idea to check the compression of the idle cylinder, since its absence may be the cause of the engine stalling. How to check compression? To do this you will need a compression gauge and the help of your friend. (Compression measurement process) Compression in a new engine should be within 12 points. If the compression in an idle cylinder is less than 8 points, then this is what can cause the engine to trip. If the compression is 9-10, then you should measure it in all other cylinders. The compression in all cylinders must be +- the same and its difference by more than 1 point is unacceptable.
Why does the VAZ 2106 jerk while driving?
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Video: why the VAZ 2106 car jerks while driving
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Spark generator
The first place where motorists usually look for a problem is the spark plugs. On old domestic cars this is done simply - using the old-fashioned method. The spark plug is unscrewed from the cylinder block.
Next, it is inserted into the tip and leans against the car body. Turn the ignition key for 1-2 seconds and you will see if there is a spark. This procedure should be repeated with all four candles. Of course, if there is a stand for checking spark plugs, then it is recommended to use it.
To check the high-voltage wires, you need to remove them from the vehicle and measure the resistance using a multimeter. The indicator should be about 5 ohm. For Zhiguli cars with a carburetor engine, it is recommended to use high-voltage wires manufactured by Tesla.
The VAZ 2106 engine uses a standard Zhiguli ignition coil, which can also fail. Therefore, it is recommended to diagnose this element as well. In case of failure, replace it.
Rich mixture
The engine began to stall and stopped developing maximum power. When cold it may start and stall. In this case, the air-fuel mixture is to blame, where there is a lot of fuel and little oxygen.
It floods the spark plugs with gasoline and they refuse to work. From this you can judge the quality of the fuel mixture. If there is black soot, it is rich, if it is light, it is poor.
I wrote about this in detail in other articles, go to the channel, everything is written there, the link was above.
What to do
Look for the reason. There are several possible sources of problems:
- Mass air flow sensor
. It fails and the ECU receives incorrect readings for preparing the mixture. I wrote how to check it here. - The second lambda was covered with a “copper basin”
. There is also a separate article about it. - In the case of a carburetor, a high level in the float chamber
.
And so on. There can be many reasons for a rich mixture. If you are interested, I will write a separate article on this topic. Let me know about it in the comments.
Finding the cause of the tripping
We start looking for a fault, start the car, go to the exhaust pipe, listen to the sound of the exhaust. On a working engine, the sound is smooth and uniform. The fact that there is no spark on one candle is indicated by popping noises; they are repeated at certain intervals. If the popping noises are repeated at different intervals, then the reason is in the carburetor, or rather in its adjustment. Popping noises that sound at irregular intervals can be eliminated by changing the entire set of candles. Regular popping noises can be caused by poor condition of the high-voltage wires of the ignition system. High-voltage cables must under no circumstances have insulation defects, and the tips must not be oxidized. If such defects are present, then the problem may be in them. If you do not find cable defects, then you need to check the distributor cover and distributor rotor.
Unscrew the 2 fixing screws of the plastic distributor cover and remove it. Examine the lid inside and out. There should be no cracks on the cover, as well as carbon deposits, and the carbon contact should be damaged or worn out. The ends of the high-voltage cables must be removed and the spark plugs unscrewed.
When dismantling high-voltage cables, do not pull on the cable itself.
Candles need to be carefully examined and their appearance checked. The gap between the spark plug electrodes should be 0.6-0.7 mm. If the candle is smoked or damp, it can be thrown away. If no obviously faulty spark plug is found, the spark plugs can be replaced and the high-voltage cables connected. There is another way, we take a spare spark plug, attach it to the engine, the spark plug does not need to be fixed to the oil dipstick, carburetor, fuel hoses, fuel pump, or oil filler neck. If during inspection you find a malfunction in the 3rd cylinder, you will have to remove the hose.
If the interruptions (engine tripping) do not stop, then most likely you will have to check and replace the vacuum brake booster.
Source: https://avtorial.ru/VAZ2/VAZ210615.html
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VAZ 2106/ Troubles the Engine, Found the Cause/Ride/And I Disassemble the Jig.
VAZ 2106 / engine troubles, found the reason / rides / and disassemble the jig.
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Checking the ignition coil (babin) of VAZ 2106
And now we have finally come to the ignition coil of the VAZ 2106. If the ignition coil is faulty, then there will not be a spark in all cylinders at once, this needs to be understood. Those. the engine will not start. How can I check it? There are several ways, but I will tell you about one, the simplest one - this is measuring the resistance of the primary and secondary windings of the coil. Let's start with the primary one. To do this, set the tester in resistance measurement mode and measure it between the “+” and “-” terminals of the coil. It should be between 0.5 and 2 ohms. If the tester does not show anything, it means the circuit is broken and the coil needs to be replaced.
Next, we measure the secondary winding - between the “+” and the central terminals of the coil. Allowable resistance is up to 15 kOhm.
This ends the high-voltage part of the KSZ and now I will make some amendments for the BSZ VAZ 2106.
The main differences are that instead of a chopper with a capacitor, a Hall sensor with a switch is installed.
The engine shakes at idle
#1 andreika2103
Users 530 messages Registration 05-March 14
- From: Kyiv
- Car: VAZ 2103
The engine has just been overhauled, and it shakes a little at idle:
https://youtube.com/watch?v=KL_FHxohUjM
The main causes of engine shaking are known: 1) untimely spark or misfires (look for: spark plugs, wires, coil, distributor and adjustment of the OZ, etc.); 2) incorrect mixture composition (carburetor or air leak); 3) unadjusted timing belt (valve , marks, chain tension); 4) engine diseases (lack of compression, oil pouring into spark plugs, etc.).
There are additional factors that can influence: - poor balancing (crankshaft/flywheel and weight distribution of the ShPG); - poor-quality engine mounts; - probably something else.
But what to do if everything is new, just made, rechecked and adjusted several times? What if all the seemingly obvious reasons were not confirmed? You can always say something like “don’t worry, the engine is working - don’t interfere with it.” But you can try to figure it out and find the reason. After all, some little thing can be overlooked, and it will be the reason for the uneven operation of the engine! What do you think is the best search algorithm?
Only connecting rods go into battle
Moderators 16,159 messages Registration 26-November 12
- From: Kyiv
- Auto: 21061, 21083
Troubles VAZ engine when cold
When the problem occurs exclusively during warm-up of the internal combustion engine, you need to pay attention to the following components:
- Mass air flow sensor;
- Air leaks in cold parts, after reaching operating temperature, leaks are blocked by expanded material;
- Injectors - cold design may stick;
- Airing of the highway. In some cases, after inactivity, air bubbles form inside the hoses.
After the system warms up, the plugs come out on their own, due to which the engine is leveled.
Bottom line
The negative effect when a VAZ engine fails can be removed independently. The design of the power plant does not have complex parts or systems requiring highly specialized equipment. For proper repairs, it is enough to have a minimum set of tools and have basic knowledge of the internal combustion engine.
The engine smokes
Usually a small amount of smoke comes out of the exhaust pipe. However, sometimes there come moments when thick smoke can literally pour out of your six. To understand what the problem is, you need to pay attention to its color.
- Transparent color.
Transparent or slightly white smoke that is almost invisible. It's not even smoke, but rather steam. It occurs because the system has not yet warmed up. This is especially noticeable in winter after the car has been sitting in the yard all night. There's nothing wrong with that. After the system warms up, the steam will practically disappear. - Black color.
This phenomenon looks quite scary. One of the reasons may be the usual overload of the motor with heavy weight. Try unloading the trunk if you have placed something particularly heavy in it. However, most often this problem does not arise for VAZ 2106 owners due to the small size of the vehicle. Therefore, also pay attention to how the mixture formation process proceeds. Most likely there is too much fuel entering the engine. The result is not only black smoke, but also increased fuel consumption. Try changing the air filter. You also need to measure the compression. Check the condition of the cylinders and whether the engine control sensors are working correctly. Check the spark plugs to see if they have a black coating on them, which may indicate the need to repair the engine. - White color.
Unlike the clear smoke described above, this smoke has a thick white tint and does not disappear as the engine warms up. It indicates that there is a malfunction in the cooling system. This is a sure sign that urgent measures need to be taken, because a breakdown can lead to a major overhaul of the engine. Check the candles to see if they have developed a coating similar to what appears on a kettle due to scale. If this happens, it means water is getting into the cylinders. - Bluish color.
The reasons for this phenomenon can be various breakdowns. For example, you can check the serviceability of the valve stem seals. If they are damaged, oil may leak and enter the idle engine. You will also have to check the oil rings. Due to their wear, excess oil may flow into the cylinders.
Here we have listed only the most common causes of excess smoke. If this information does not help, you need to contact the service center.
Incorrect operation of injectors
If your car has distributed or direct injection, then the cause of the engine tripping may be a malfunctioning fuel injector. It may overflow or not inject gasoline into the intake manifold or directly into the combustion chamber.
You can check the performance of the injectors at the stand. In the garage - just swap them and watch the scanner readings for errors.
A stand for testing the performance of fuel injectors when searching for the causes of engine tripping
Fuel supply
Fuel supply is one of the important elements in the formation of the air-fuel mixture. Let's consider where a malfunction can occur. The following elements should be diagnosed: carburetor, fuel pump, fuel filter and intake manifold.
Let's start with the most common cause of tripping - the carburetor. It has a float chamber where the float can break, blocking the normal supply of fuel. Because of this, a lean mixture is obtained, which actually leads to triplication.
To fix the problem, you will have to disassemble and rebuild the carburetor. To carry out restoration and repair operations, a repair kit is usually used, which can be purchased at any car market.
The fuel pump, or rather its malfunction, can lead to poor fuel supply. Of course, to fix the problem, you can buy a repair kit and rebuild the unit. But, as practice shows, the repair will not last long, and it is recommended to replace the unit. Also, it is worth replacing the fuel filter, which is located near the gasoline pump.
In order to inspect the part, you will need a pit or a lift, since the lower part of the collector can only be seen from the side of the car pan. If it is determined that the part has a crack, it must be removed from the machine and welded using argon welding.
this is a problem in the entire auto industry
why the second one? I’ll answer there too
this is a problem in the entire auto industry
need to see a diagnostician
need it, need it. I thought maybe someone had similar syndromes. and I’ve heard a lot of bad things about diagnosticians
Valve mechanism
The last place to look for a problem is the valve mechanism and piston system. Usually, in this case, the car owner is advised to contact a car service center.
But the VAZ 2106 engine has a fairly simple design, so it’s easy to figure out and identify a fault of this nature, although it will take half a day.
To simultaneously inspect the condition of the cylinders and valves, you will have to dismantle the cylinder head. To do this, it is worth removing the carburetor, manifolds and other equipment from the engine that is attached and will interfere with the dismantling process. Then, it is worth inspecting the condition of the intake and exhaust valves, as well as the valve seats.
The cylinder head may need major repairs. Also, it is worth looking at the condition of the pistons and oil rings. The pistons could burn out or the engine's life would be exhausted. To fix it, it is necessary to overhaul the engine.
Reasons why the engine stalls
Failure of one of the cylinders is often caused by the following factors:
- malfunction of the ignition or fuel supply system;
- the appearance of “excess” air in the intake manifold;
- insufficient compression.
Let us consider in order the possible reasons for this phenomenon. An example would be the engine of a VAZ 2106 car that “trips”. The reason that the engine “trips” may be an incorrectly set ignition timing. In this case, the engine “jerks” at idle, and this applies not only to the VAZ 2106. The problem is solved by precise adjustment of the ignition.
If the malfunction is not resolved, we look for the inoperative cylinder. Usually, to do this, the engine is started, and the tips of the high-voltage wires are sequentially disconnected from the spark plugs. Disconnection of one of the tips without affecting engine operation indicates a non-functioning cylinder. A spark plug is unscrewed from it to check for the presence of a spark.
To do this, they use a tester that detects missing pulses in the secondary ignition circuit, but this device is a rarity among car owners. More often than not, the unscrewed spark plug with the high-voltage wire tip on is leaned against the “ground” of the car and, turning the crankshaft with the starter, the spark is detected visually. The spark plug that does not provide sparking is replaced with a serviceable one.
If, despite replacing the spark plug, a spark does not appear, you need to check:
- high-voltage wire and capacitor of the distributor for absence of insulation damage and breakdown;
- cover, ignition distributor rotor, which should not have cracks or burnouts;
- the state of the contacts, the rotation of the lever with the moving contact and the spring stiffness of the ignition distributor breaker;
- the tightness of the ignition timing regulator membrane, if the regulator is removed and the vacuum nozzle in the carburetor is not plugged, the engine will “triple”, stall, jerk, its speed will be unstable;
- integrity of the sensor-distributor wires and proper operation of the transistor switch with a contactless ignition system;
- compliance with the table values of winding resistance and the presence of breakdowns of the ignition coil (bobbin).
When checking the fuel supply system, you need to make sure that the fuel pump and carburetor are working properly. The fuel pump is inspected, any detected leaks of fuel or oil are eliminated by tightening loose connections or replacing sealing gaskets (diaphragms). Then, by disconnecting the fuel line at the carburetor, use the pumping lever to check the fuel supply force. The gasoline stream must be strong and free of air.
The vast majority of VAZ 2106 engines were equipped with an OZONE carburetor. The engine can “trouble” and stall when a lean or over-enriched mixture is fed into the combustion chamber, that is, improper carburetor adjustment or clogged jets. A lean mixture in this case is characterized by popping into the carburetor, an over-rich mixture is characterized by the flooding of one or more spark plugs with fuel.
The next reason why the VAZ 2106 engine speed may “float” is the suction of “excess” air into the intake manifold. This can happen through a hose, a diaphragm or brake booster valve, a spacer between the carburetor and the cylinder head, or a loose connection between the intake manifold and the cylinder head. The consequence is the formation of “excess” air, which leads to a lean mixture and misfire. To solve the problem, you need to eliminate the air leak.
The most serious reason in terms of repair, due to which the VAZ 2106 engine can “triple” and stall, is missing or insufficient compression in one of the cylinders. This may be caused by a malfunction in the cylinder head or piston system. To determine more accurately, it is enough to measure the compression in the cylinders. If it turns out to be low (compression of 1.1 MPa is considered normal for the VAZ 2106 power unit), you need to take the measurement again, after pouring a little oil into the cylinders.
If the indicators increase, we can talk about a malfunction of the piston system (piston burnout, stuck or broken rings). If the readings have not changed, this indicates problems in the cylinder head (incorrect adjustment, burnout of the valve or cylinder head gasket, wear of the rocker, oil seals).
