VAZ 2107 4 doors. sedan, 71 hp, manual transmission, 1982 – 2012 - knocking and clicking noises when turning

There was an attempt to adjust the gears according to the operating instructions, but this did not affect the backlash.

Question: is there a chance to repair and/or adjust the gearbox and if so, how?

ubiraetsya lyuft chervyaka.

You know, after such an adjustment, I have passed 3 thousand km. and knocks more and more often.

There is only one question: it seems to me that the bearing is dying, right next to the bipod. Maybe (if at all possible) it makes sense to just replace it and move on with your life? Still, $50 provided that you change it yourself.

The bipod axis moves up and down (if you swing it from below) a little and to the sides (apparently this is radial play). Moreover, it cannot be left in some middle position - only at one edge or at the other. Moves with a thud.

It helped at first. Drove 3 thousand km. and again the same song. Only now - you can tighten it all the way (but not very much) - and the same garbage. Knocking. In the end, I adjusted it as needed - the steering wheel is normal, not heavy.

Although. If you park the car in a pit. I try to rotate the bipod the way it moves when you turn the steering wheel, free movement (even taking into account the fact that the wheels are not removed) - no, no knocks, silence. I begin to pump the bipod with my hands with a force of 15-20 kg, if you look from below - up and down. And here the knock appears.

There are problems with the steering shaft play. I am a healthy person, and although I follow the rule that you cannot turn the steering wheel while standing still, I blame myself.

Moreover, I don’t understand anything - this did not affect the handling, up to 140 km/h. It goes straight, doesn't yaw, and the steering wheel obeys normally. I already thought, to hell with it, with a knock. Let him die. But still, what does this threaten? Will the gearbox fall apart while driving? Or will it jam?

PS: Do not offer a new car.

Here are the questions: 1. Is it possible to do this without removing the gearbox from the car? 2. if so, how to tighten the bipod nut, the strength was not enough on the first try? 3. What other underwater stones could there be?

When you hear a knock in the steering column, you need to immediately identify why it appeared and immediately begin to correct the situation. The reliability of the steering is the main factor of safety on the road. It is important to monitor the condition of this mechanism by the driver and service departments. The first signs of problems include sounds made by the steering column.

Causes related to drive and suspension

Now let's move on to other elements of the car in which knocking may occur when turning the steering wheel. There are not many of them, but malfunctions with them can lead to expensive repairs

If you hear a knocking sound with a crunching effect when the wheel is turned completely, this often indicates severe wear of the constant velocity joint (CV joint) used in the wheel drive mechanism.

The CV joint itself is a fairly reliable element if it is protected from dust and dirt getting inside. Read on the topic - replacing the inner CV joint boot of popular car models.

Therefore, it is quite easy to determine that this is the cause of the knocking when turning - you need to carefully inspect the protective boot.

If it is damaged, we can say with complete confidence that the cause of the third-party crunch is the CV joint.

Many car enthusiasts claim that it is possible to fully restore the performance of the CV joint by removing it, washing it and adding new lubricant.

Some additionally add small shavings of soft plastic to the lubricant, for example, from a cork from a Champagne bottle. Be sure to replace the damaged boot.

However, such measures can only delay the replacement of the hinge for a while and in the end it will still have to be replaced. And when to perform this operation - immediately upon detection of damage to the boot, or a little later - it is up to the car enthusiast to decide.

POPULAR WITH READERS: VAZ body repair

In many modern domestic cars, the weak point is the shock absorber strut bearing. It can also cause knocking.

This problem seems to be easily solved - it is enough to replace the support, but sometimes this is not very easy to do. After all, you will have to remove the entire rack from the car.

Also, a broken strut spring may be knocking in the suspension. At the same time, it will no longer be able to fully perform its functions, which will lead to rapid failure of the shock absorber.

Therefore, if noise appears, you should immediately inspect the spring. If it bursts, you will have to change it, and it is changed in pairs on both sides of the car.

If you hear a knocking sound on your car when turning, but it is also accompanied by a hum, it is likely that all this is due to wear on the wheel bearing.

It is quite easy to diagnose his condition.

You need to jack up the wheel on the side where the knock is coming from and rock it, checking for axial play.

If such play exists, the bearing needs to be replaced, which is impossible to do without the appropriate equipment and knowledge.

Installation and repair of the steering column on a VAZ 2107

One of the elements of the VAZ 2107 car, which received a number of improvements in this model compared to the previous ones, is the steering column. How is its device different? In the VAZ 2107, the steering column shaft consists of two parts connected by a cross. Thanks to this design, driver safety is significantly increased, since in the event of a collision the shaft simply bends at the hinge joint and does not cause serious harm to the person. Also, the shaft in the VAZ 2107 has bearings, so turning the steering wheel requires much less effort.

The steering column of the VAZ 2107 consists of a shaft with an articulated joint and a gearbox with a worm gear. Column repair is a very rare occurrence. If you ensure timely maintenance of this unit, it may never be needed. Steering column maintenance work includes lubricating the steering shaft joint, tightening the steering wheel nut, changing the oil and adjusting the gearbox. Let's look at possible problems associated with the steering column and methods for eliminating them.

TOP 5 reasons why the car steering wheel knocks when driving!

1. Knock in the steering wheel on uneven surfaces when driving straight ahead

Sometimes a knocking noise occurs when driving on uneven roads. The cause may be worn-out shaft bearings located inside the steering column. As a result, radial play of the shaft occurs, accompanied by this knocking sound. If the O-ring or retaining ring is worn, this can also lead to end play. This can be partly solved by inexpensive repair of the column due to the provided supply of necessary spare parts.

Along with replacing faulty elements, specialists also replace related elements and parts that may be serviceable, but soon will probably again require repair of the entire assembly due to their failure while driving.

Some car models have a non-removable column that cannot be restored. In this case, the entire column changes.

2. Knock when turning the steering wheel while standing still or in motion

First of all, it is worth checking the tire pressure - differently inflated wheels can also cause knocking noise when the car is moving. Next, inspect the fastening of the plastic fender liners. Probably, one or more mounting screws have broken out, which is why the fender liner touches the wheel when turning and makes a corresponding knock. The problem can be easily fixed. You just need to replace the loose fasteners with new ones.

The greatest danger is caused by malfunctions accompanied by a knocking sound from the steering mechanism itself when turning the steering wheel. The sound may be localized closer to the suspension, wheels or steering wheel. Let's look at the reasons for its occurrence, starting with the most common.

3. Constant velocity joints

A knocking sound when the steering wheel is turned while driving is usually associated with the operation of the outer CV joint, which begins to creak or, in some cases, hit the wheel. Accordingly, when turning left, a crunch or knock will occur in the right CV joint, and when turning right, in the left one.

Internal hinges, as a rule, make a squeaking or knocking sound when moving at high speed over uneven surfaces. They do not react at all to steering wheel turns. Therefore, if turning or sharp acceleration of the car is accompanied by a knocking noise, most likely the outer joint needs to be replaced. But before replacing it, you should carefully inspect it. If there is little or no wear, it is enough to treat the CV joint with appropriate lubricant.

4. Tie rods and tie rods

Both the tips and the rods in the steering system wear out over time, causing play. As a result, squeaks and knocks appear when the car turns while driving.

To check the condition of the parts, jack up the car on the side where the sounds are coming from and remove the wheel. Then try to loosen the rods and tips, thus checking for possible play. Often, dirt and water accumulate inside the tip due to a torn boot, which is why the knocking occurs.

Sometimes a distinct metallic knock when turning the steering wheel in a stationary car or while driving appears due to the fact that the car owner forgot to secure the tie rod with the end after performing a wheel alignment. You can verify this by shaking the wheel left and right with your hands. If the wheel wobbles, making a characteristic sound, the problem is precisely the loose nut.

5. Steering rack

A faulty steering rack quite often causes knocking noises when turning the steering wheel, both while driving and when the car is stationary. Why does this knock occur? There are several reasons for this:

  • The steering gear fasteners are not tightened properly.
  • The plastic support bushing of the steering wheel was severely worn, creating play.
  • Play appeared in the steering rack shaft bearings.
  • The gap between the rack teeth has increased, creating backlash and causing dull knocks when turning the steering wheel on a stationary car.
  • The anti-friction gasket was completely worn out, as a result of which the clamping “cracker” began to vibrate and knock on the steering rack housing.

Detecting a knock in the steering rack is a rather difficult task. It is best to use the help of a partner by asking him to sit behind the wheel of the car, previously placed on the handbrake, and position himself under the car near the steering rack. Let the assistant rotate the steering wheel, and at this time you note the creaks and crunches coming from the rack, which will signal a malfunction.

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Steering VAZ 2107

The steering mechanism of the VAZ “Seven” consists of several units connected together by means of fasteners. These components and their constituent elements, like any other part of the car, wear out over time and become unusable. The purpose, design, repair and maintenance of the VAZ 2107 steering system should be discussed in more detail.

Purpose

The main function assigned to the steering mechanism is to ensure the vehicle moves in the direction specified by the driver. On most passenger cars, the trajectory of movement is carried out by turning the wheels of the front axle. The steering mechanism of the “seven” is quite complex, but at the same time it provides trouble-free control in different situations on the road. The car is equipped with a safety steering column with a driveshaft that folds upon impact. The steering wheel of the mechanism in question has a diameter of 40 cm and to completely turn the wheels you need to make only 3.5 turns, which allows you to perform maneuvers without much difficulty.

What does it consist of?

The front wheel control mechanism on the VAZ 2107 is made of the following basic elements:

  • steering wheel;
  • shaft;
  • gearbox;
  • bipod;
  • trapezoid;
  • pendulum;
  • steering knuckles.


Steering VAZ 2107: 1 - lateral thrust; 2 - bipod; 3 - medium thrust; 4 — pendulum lever; 5 - adjusting coupling; 6 — lower ball joint of the front suspension; 7 — right steering knuckle; 8 — upper ball joint of the front suspension; 9 — right steering knuckle lever; 10 — bracket for the pendulum arm; 11 — bearing of the upper steering shaft; 12, 19 — steering shaft mounting bracket; 13 — pipe of the steering shaft mounting bracket; 14 — upper steering shaft; 15 — steering gear housing; 16 — intermediate steering shaft; 17 — facing casing of the steering shaft; 18 — steering wheel; 20 — fixing plate of the front bracket; 21 — coupling bolt for fastening the universal joint; 22 — body spar

Steering shaft

Through the shaft, rotation from the steering wheel is transmitted to the steering column. The shaft is secured with a bracket to the car body. Structurally, the element is made in the form of a cardan with crosspieces and an upper shaft. In the event of a collision, the mechanism folds, thereby ensuring the safety of the driver.

Gearbox

The VAZ 2107 is equipped with a worm steering column, which converts the rotational movement of the steering wheel into the translational movement of the steering rods. The operating principle of the steering mechanism is as follows:

  1. The driver turns the steering wheel.
  2. By means of cardan joints, the worm shaft is driven, thereby reducing the number of revolutions of the steering wheel.
  3. The worm element rotates, moving the double-ridge roller.
  4. The secondary shaft rotates, on which the bipod is fixed, driving the steering rods.
  5. The trapezoid moves the steering knuckles, turning the wheels in the desired direction.


One of the main components in the steering mechanism is the steering column.

The steering bipod is a part through which the steering linkage is connected to the steering gearbox.

Steering linkage

The radius of the vehicle's trajectory when turning depends on the angle of rotation of the wheels. Since the outer wheel has a larger radius than the inner one, in order to avoid the latter slipping and deteriorating traction with the road surface, the front wheels must deviate at different angles.


The front wheels must turn at different angles to avoid slipping.

This is what the steering linkage is used for. During the maneuver, the transverse thrust of the mechanism shifts under the influence of the bipod. Thanks to the pendulum arm, it pushes and pulls the side rods. Since misalignment occurs, the impact on the tie rod ends is different, which leads to the wheels turning at different angles. The tips of the trapezoid with the rods are connected through adjusting couplings, which allow you to change the angles of rotation of the wheels. The parts of the trapezoid are connected to each other by identical ball joints. This design contributes to the normal operation of the unit even when driving on bad roads.


The steering linkage allows the front wheels to turn at different angles.

Pendulum arm

The steering pendulum of the “seven” is necessary for synchronous rotation of the wheels of the front axle without lag. Thus, the car is able to corner safely. If malfunctions occur with the pendulum, the vehicle’s performance during maneuvers deteriorates, which can lead to an emergency.


The pendulum is designed to synchronously rotate the wheels when the steering wheel is rotated

Rounded fist

The main purpose of the steering knuckle (trunnion) is to ensure that the front wheels turn in the direction desired by the driver. The part is made of durable steel, since high loads are placed on it. Steering rod ends, hubs, and brake system elements are also attached to the knuckles. The axle is fixed to the front suspension arms using ball joints.

Possible causes and methods of eliminating knocking

  • The ball joint fails. It needs to be replaced, as it may rupture and the car will have to be dragged by a tow truck (the wheel will be turned unnaturally inward or outward and it will be impossible to drive).
  • The grenade malfunctions. Moreover, when turning left, the right grenade is loaded and vice versa. Accordingly, if you hear a knock when turning the steering wheel to the left, change the right grenade.
  • Worn stabilizer bushings may knock or creak. The problem can be easily solved: you need to spray the bushings with silicone grease. The rubber will become more elastic and the squeaking or knocking noise will go away.
  • A knocking noise may occur if the steering rack is faulty or weakened. This may cause vibration in the steering wheel. It is necessary to tighten the rack fastenings or have the rack diagnosed at a service station and repair or replace spare parts.
  • The engine crankcase protection bolts may become loose. Although this does not happen often, an undetected problem can bring a lot of unpleasant moments. The solution is to simply tighten the bolts. If the bolt thread is stripped, replace the bolt. You may have to update the thread with a tap.
  • If the knocking noise appears after replacing the wheel, then the possible cause of the knocking noise will be insufficiently tightened wheel bolts. Over time, vibration is added to the knocking. The problem is solved in a minute - by tightening the bolts to the required force.
  • A cracked or broken spring may be making a knocking noise. Unfortunately, the quality of spare parts has presented motorists with such a problem in recent years. The solution is to replace the cracked spring.
  • Worn or leaking shock absorbers may “kick” when turning the steering wheel to the right or left, that is, they cannot hold the load and sag under the weight of the car with a knock. The solution is to diagnose and replace the shock absorber. You can diagnose it yourself. To do this, you need to sharply press with both hands on the wing in the area of ​​the shock absorber and also sharply release. Observe not only when the knocking appears, but also how much oscillation the car makes after pressing on one side or the other.

Repair and adjustment of steering gear

If at some point the car cannot turn in the right direction, then it cannot be called safe. This applies to all cars, and the VAZ 2106 is no exception. The steering system of the “six” is characterized by increased complexity. The heart of the system is the steering gear, which, like any other device, becomes unusable over time. Fortunately, a car enthusiast can easily change it himself. Let's figure out how this is done.

  • Purpose of the VAZ 2106 steering gear The design of the steering gear
    Steering system noise
    Sequencing
    Sequence of work
    Video: how to adjust the classic steering gear
    How to check the oil level in the steering gear

Quiet in place: knocking only when turning the steering wheel while driving

If it is not a cardan shaft, a rack, or the consequences of flushing the internal combustion engine with dimexide, feel free to inspect the suspension. Anything can tap:

  • Racks.
  • Support bearings.
  • Ball joints.
  • Anti-roll bar.
  • Wheel bearings.

Most parts are checked with the vehicle stationary:

  • "Supports". Ask an assistant to turn the steering wheel while you put your hand on either the strut rod or the spring. Extraneous crunches and play indicate bearing failure.
  • "Ball" Drive the car onto a lift, pit, or overpass and swing the lever on which the support is fixed using a pry bar. There should be no tapping.

Shock absorbers. Place your finger on the strut rod and swing the car up and down by the wing. The knocking sound most often occurs due to a decrease in pressure in the strut due to a worn oil seal or scuffing on the rod. After a while it starts to flow. If you have already removed the shock absorber, make sure the diagnosis is correct - tug on the rod to see if it is loose or not. When installing a new one, make it a rule to bleed it, otherwise clunking will soon occur.

The stabilizer can be moved with a mount. Regarding it, there is one practical piece of advice: if the silent blocks and the rubber part of the stabilizer struts (links) are cracked, change them regardless of the presence of extraneous rattling.

If the steering wheel makes knocking noises when turning a slight turn while driving, inspect the wheel bearing. It usually hums, and the clanging noise is caused by a defect.

Domestic does not mean bad

It's no secret that today the most popular cars are the so-called consumer class. A fairly large segment of sales in this sector is occupied by the domestic auto industry. As a rule, a consumer who buys such a car is guided by the manufacturer’s affordable pricing policy while the quality has increased almost to world standards. And that’s why we see more and more brand new Ladas on our streets, in which we no longer even recognize features familiar from childhood.

The new Grands, Priors and Kalinas embody almost all modern innovations available for cars of such a modest class. However, are they reliable? The latest generation of VAZs, the famous “eights”, “nines” and “tens”, quite often lost even to old-style foreign cars in reliability and adaptability to our roads. They were still bought because of their modest price, but they were still viewed more as a temporary component of their life, hoping in the near future to switch to more comfortable and reliable cars of Western or Asian production.

As already noted, most often in modern road realities, the chassis of a car fails. Is it reliable in modern VAZs? The answer is clear: yes. Engineers and designers have tried to make life easier for the modern driver.

Unusual causes of steering wheel knocking when driving

It's not just the suspension and steering that can cause knocking noise. Under the influence of shocks and sudden braking of the car, poorly secured components and mechanisms are displaced. Two metal surfaces hit each other, inevitably accompanied by ringing sounds.

  • Single dull knock when starting to move.
    You should check the engine or gearbox mounts, as well as the clutch driveshaft. It is possible that the engine tilted when starting off, hitting the side member.
  • Clunking sound when driving on uneven roads and when turning.
    Check if the steering wheel knocks when braking. A knocking sound will indicate wear on the brake caliper guides.
  • Irregular impacts, felt mainly at low speeds when turning.
    If the car is front-wheel drive, the differential is faulty.

Sometimes knocking when turning occurs due to unusual situations that are difficult to diagnose. For example, there was a case where a small stone hit the subframe and got stuck while the car was moving. When the car turned, the steering gear parts naturally shifted, running over this stone. When the wheels were aligned, the steering mechanism parts took their original position and at the same time jumped off the stone with a characteristic impact sound. The problem was eventually resolved by removing the stone from the subframe.

In other cases, when turning or driving in a straight line, the subframe itself knocks in the suspension. This is due to the loosening of the bolt, which must be tightened to eliminate the knocking.

Summarizing all of the above, we will give some tips for beginners.

To prevent the appearance of steering wheel knocks when driving and other extraneous noises, as well as the reasons for their occurrence, regularly service your car. Inspect it from all sides, including from below. Follow the speed limit and drive carefully. Only in these cases will extraneous noise in the car not disturb you over a long period of operation.

However, one day the moment comes when all kinds of hinges, supports and tips need to be changed. Unfortunately, each unit and mechanism has its own limited service life.

How to adjust play, also known as free play at the steering wheel on a VAZ 2101-VAZ 2107?

Note! It is better to do the work with an assistant, as it is much easier and more convenient!

1) First, remove the protective cap that covers the column adjustment screw.

2) Then loosen the adjusting screw nut (Indicated by the red arrow) using a 17mm wrench. The nut must be loosened until the washer located under this nut can be lifted (Indicated by a blue arrow).

Next, when the nut is loosened, ask your assistant to sit behind the wheel of your car and sharply turn the steering wheel in different directions several times, while using a screwdriver, screw in the adjusting screw, which is indicated by the green arrow.

Note! Do this until the play at the steering wheel is within normal limits. Also, do not over-tighten the adjusting screw, otherwise the steering wheel may become very difficult to turn!

Malfunction of the steering gearbox.

The VAZ two thousand 100 seven gearbox does not require unnecessary intervention. The main condition for normal operation is the presence of lubrication. Creaks or extraneous sounds in the structure are common damage. Because in this model the steering wheel is attached to the shaft using splines tightened with a nut, if the fastening is loosened, the splines will be more subject to wear, and the steering wheel will dangle. Squeaks may be heard from the driveshaft crosspieces, which arise as a result of wear of the mechanism parts or lack of lubrication.

Also, damage to the free play of the steering wheel often occurs. The driveshaft can come off and as a result a gap appears. To adjust the control column, provide a bolt with a lock nut. The nut is pulled back and the bolt is screwed in until the free play returns to its normal state. Then this nut is tightened and fixed in a suitable position. After this process, the steering wheel will turn even tighter, but the free play will be reduced.

Control gear VAZ 2107

Before starting to check the malfunction of the control mechanism, subject to the identified symptoms, it is necessary to adjust the gearing. If the adjustment is unsuccessful (for example, the steering wheel turns tightly, but the free play has not disappeared), then you should disassemble the gearbox to find faulty or non-functional parts of the mechanism.

Step-by-step adjustment of the worm gear.

In order to independently adjust the steering gear of a VAZ 2107 car, you need a flat screwdriver, a 19mm wrench, the help of another person and follow the step-by-step work:

  • In order for the steering mechanism to be adjusted efficiently, the car must be placed on a flat surface, and the wheels must be in a straight position.
  • Next, open the hood and clean the gearbox from dirt. Then you need to find the adjusting screw located in the center of the crankcase cover. This screw is covered mostly by a plastic plug. Before removing it, the plug must be pryed off with a flat screwdriver.
  • Then you need to use a 19mm wrench to loosen the nut located on the adjusting screw.
  • After loosening the nut, the assistant intensively turns the steering wheel in both directions. At this moment, together with it, it is necessary to start rotating the adjusting screw so that the necessary clearance appears in the meshing of the gears. Free play should be minimized and steering wheel rotation should become much easier.
  • After the gap is adjusted, it is necessary to tighten the lock nut tightly, while holding the screw with a screwdriver.

Front suspension repair

The cost of the parts themselves when eliminating the described reasons is most often small, but the price of replacing them in car services sometimes causes bewilderment. In such cases, it is better to repair the suspension yourself. This requires special devices and tools.

To remove the tips and ball joints of the steering wheel, pullers are needed that, during dismantling, preserve the integrity of these parts.

Silent blocks are replaced using a long threaded rod or bolt with a corresponding nut and a set of bushings and washers. The bushings should rest on the lever cage, and the washer should match the diameter of the rubber seal. Tightening the nut squeezes the silent blocks out of the lever, and then presses a new one in its place.

Causes of knocking in the steering column

The steering column does not have a very complex design, however, this does not mean that the system is trouble-free and does not require attention. Regular checking, adjustment and restoration of the functionality of this mechanism will help preserve the life and health of the driver, passengers and pedestrians. The knocking noise may be accompanied by the steering wheel beating when braking. Such manifestations can appear unexpectedly and are caused by:

  • deformation of system parts;
  • looseness of fasteners;
  • leakage of working fluid from the mechanism or lack of lubrication in it;
  • loosening the ball joint nuts;
  • increasing the gap between the gear and the rack;
  • backlash;
  • weakening the density of connections.

At the same time, there is a kickback on the steering wheel, and this is a problem that needs to be solved. A knocking sound in the column is also possible for other reasons. There are not many of them, as it seems at first glance. Sometimes it is only possible to make an accurate diagnosis when you remove and disassemble the steering wheel. Such sounds appear where the steering parts, instead of fitting tightly to each other, have lost this density.

Often, the detection of a knock when turning the steering wheel is a consequence of misalignment of the steering rack. The malfunction can be removed by tightening it with a special wrench. There are known cases when a knock in the column comes from the electric power steering. Some defects can be conditionally determined visually and by detecting displacements at the joints of the steering column parts.

In this way, a faulty bearing is often detected. However, auto mechanics receive complete information about the causes as a result of professional diagnostics. Only she can specifically indicate where the knocking in the steering column comes from. Sometimes this is a consequence of failure or wear of the bearing located in the steering column bracket, or the needle bearing of the steering shaft crosspiece.

causes of malfunction and solutions

Steering is an important part of any car. The traffic regulations prohibit the operation of motor vehicles with various defects in the steering system. It is very important to carry out diagnostics or repairs even with minor signs of malfunction. A knock in the steering column is already a fairly serious sign that indicates defects in the steering. Let's look at typical causes of malfunctions and ways to eliminate them.

Among the main parts are the mounting sleeve, casing, and upper housing. The design also includes a housing for mounting steering column switches, an ignition switch housing, a steering shaft, a contact group and fasteners. In some car models, the design also includes a crosspiece, brackets for mounting the steering shaft, and a bearing.

At the heart of any steering column is a shaft located in a casing. Its function is to transmit the rotation of the steering wheel to the mechanism responsible for turning the wheels. Steering shafts are made of high-quality steel, which means that they have a fairly long service life.

Causes of knocking noises and troubleshooting

Before you start looking for possible breakdowns that lead to uncomfortable driving, you need to clearly understand that knocking in the steering column occurs when, for some reason, play has formed in the mechanism or the tightness of the connections has been disrupted.

Among the main causes of steering mechanism breakdowns, several typical ones can be identified. They are the same for most models and brands of modern cars. So, the first reason is an excessively worn or completely failed bearing in the steering column bracket. Also, the causes of knocking in the steering column are failed or broken needle bearings in the crosspiece of the steering shaft. And finally, during the operation of the car, the tightness of the fastenings and connections in the bracket and forks of the cross on the shaft weakens.

Diagnostic methods

To understand where the knocking in the steering column comes from, you can carry out a visual check of each connection - it is necessary to determine the presence of play in the mechanisms. Also, during the inspection process, faulty bearings can be identified.

When checking the condition and troubleshooting the steering mechanism, each connection is tested if it is loose. It would also be a good idea to test the car in motion after this. If the knocking in the steering column did not bother you while driving, then you can relax. If the driver hears vibrations and knocking, then it is necessary to eliminate the malfunction.

Eliminating knocking noises in the steering column on a Toyota

Any technical element of a modern car is limited to a certain service life. How long this period will last depends on the loads that are placed on a particular part. The suspension in a car experiences particular loads, but the steering column experiences no less pressure.

Steering wheel play

The appearance of steering play can be caused by two reasons. First, the nut securing the steering wheel to the shaft is loosened. If the nut is not tightened promptly, the splines on the handlebar and shaft will become damaged over time and one of these parts may need to be replaced. The second reason may be wear of the worm gear. To eliminate this malfunction, a special device is provided - an adjusting bolt with a lock nut.

In order to adjust the worm gear, the nut is released, the screw is turned using a screwdriver until the backlash is eliminated, after which the nut is tightened to prevent spontaneous unscrewing. If it is impossible to eliminate the backlash by adjustment, it means that the gearbox needs to be repaired and the worm pair replaced.

To prevent premature wear of gearbox parts, periodic monitoring of the oil level and its replacement is recommended. Level control is carried out as follows:

  • Using a 8 key, unscrew the filler plug;
  • Use a screwdriver or other object to check the oil level. It should be level with the bottom edge of the filler hole.
  • If necessary, add oil using a special supercharger until it begins to flow out of the hole.

To change the oil, unscrew the screws securing the gearbox cover, having previously placed a container under it to collect used oil. Since complete removal of the cap is not required, it is moved to the side and the oil is drained. This operation is best performed on a hot engine. Warm oil has greater fluidity and drains faster. After all the oil has drained out, the cap is screwed into place and new oil is poured into the gearbox using the method described above.

Removing the gearbox

The design of the gearbox does not allow it to be repaired without removing it from the vehicle. In order to remove it, you must:

  • Disconnect the tie rod ends from the gearbox. First, they are uncoiled, then the nuts are unscrewed with a 22 wrench and the tips are pressed out using a special puller.
  • Unscrew the clamp securing the steering shaft to the gearbox.
  • Remove the three bolts that secure the gearbox to the car body.

The gearbox design should not cause any particular difficulties when repairing it. You just have to take into account that the worn elements, called the worm pair, are both replaced at the same time. After this, adjustments must be made.

Other extraneous sounds when turning the steering wheel

Not every grinding, squeaking or other noise when turning the steering wheel means the need for repairs. The presence of power steering in a car means that when changing the direction of movement, a faint hum will be heard. This is normal operation of power steering units. However, if the sound is more like grinding, knocking or squeaking, or is simply very loud, then it is better to contact a good service station for repairs.

Creaking or grinding noise when turning the steering wheel - both at a standstill and while moving

Also, when you turn the steering wheel, its mechanism may make a grinding or squeaking noise. The most likely cause is worn steering joints or front suspension components. All connections of the suspension and steering mechanism must be carefully examined. If deviations from normal conditions are detected, damaged parts should be replaced. Most often in this case, the reason is the strong depreciation of the steering tips or lack of lubrication.

In addition, creaking and even crunching when the steering wheel rotates, both while driving and when parked, is possible due to a malfunction of the lower ball joints or support bearings. A defect in the supports is also manifested by wheel play when the car is raised.

Noise when turning the steering wheel in place

Knock when turning the steering wheel in place on cars with power steering. In this case, the hum is normal. Therefore, when encountering it for the first time, you need to try to get used to it, since it will constantly

There are rare cases when the power steering hums only when the wheels are turned left or right.

It is worth paying attention to the increasing hum if you have owned the vehicle for a long time and you are already accustomed to a certain level of noise. Another alarming sign is if a hum appears not only when turning the steering wheel of a stationary car, but also while driving

The power steering should be examined.

The good news is that most often the increased noise can be eliminated simply by adding power steering fluid to the normal volume. Therefore, the first thing you should do is check its level in the tank. There will also be marks for the maximum and minimum allowable amount of oil, as well as identification marks that this is the power steering reservoir. If the fluid level is too low, there may be a leak in the system. Therefore, after topping up, the oil level should be checked weekly.

However, a low power steering fluid level may also indicate a malfunction in the corresponding pump, air in the system or insufficient drive belt tension. It is better to localize and correct this problem with the help of specialized repair shops.

Crunching noise when cornering in front-wheel drive vehicles

In some cases, turning a car into a turn is accompanied by a very strong crunching sound. The steepness of the turn and the high speed of the car only enhance this sound. The driver gets the impression that the angle of rotation of the wheels does not affect the intensity of the crunch. It is precisely a turn in one direction or another that causes it. Moreover, it is the wheel that crunches, which is located on the outer side of the trajectory, and this problem is observed when turning only left or right.

Only front-wheel drive and all-wheel drive vehicles are susceptible to this breakdown. The culprit of unpleasant noises during turns turns out to be the CV joint, which is called a “grenade” in everyday life.

To check the CV joint, you need to turn the wheels all the way and first slowly, and then quickly drive in a circle. Repeat the operation in both directions. If a crunching sound is heard during the process, it means that the “grenade” is critically worn. When the sound is accompanied by vibration, repairs must be made immediately.

If you hear a noticeable knocking noise when you move the steering wheel left to right: diagnosis

Probable Causes

If an audible knocking sound in the front suspension when turning the steering wheel indicates wear in its constituent parts, then an extraneous clicking sound when the steering wheel rocks requires inspection of other structural elements. As a rule, the problem lies in the vehicle control system.

Statistics show that there is something to knock in the “steering wheel”. Any pairing may come under suspicion:

  • Gap in the fit between the steering tip and the strut.
  • Excessive play in the steering rack.
  • There is a problem with the steering shaft driveshaft.
  • Free movement of the steering wheel on the shaft.
  • Gap in steering rod joints.

These parts are present in the design of any car. Knowing the location of all the landings, it remains to identify the defective pair.

For your information. Some old foreign cars have a folding steering column assembly, which breaks under the influence of a critical load that occurs during an accident. He can knock too.

How to identify knocking: expert methods

The classic approach to identifying a faulty unit will be explained in any garage. Its essence is trivial: just ask the assistant to shake the steering wheel and at this time put his hand on the mentioned connections.

Steering rack

However, in some situations this technology loses its relevance. In particular, it will not be possible to identify a defect in the mechanism using this method. To identify a problem in the gear-rack engagement, it is necessary to carry out the following experiment:

  • If there is power steering (hydraulic booster): a knocking sound appears when the steering wheel is rotated on a car with the engine turned off, but when the engine is running, there is no knocking at the place.
  • There is no power steering: drive along a road section with a changeable direction - when you swing the steering wheel left to right, a knock is heard, but when turning, the rack does not knock due to the small wear of the working surfaces of the gearing in the extreme positions.

For your information. It is not recommended to tighten a worn rack. One of the owners of Hyundai Solaris performed this procedure and after 10,000-12,000 km the steering wheel began to bite. An autopsy showed that the mechanism was beyond repair.

Emergency system

It is also possible to determine experimentally whether the steering column folding assembly is the cause of the knocking. It is enough to swing the “steering wheel” to the sides, while simultaneously pressing it to the bottom. The sound disappeared - the problem is in the emergency system.

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