If the steering wheel of a VAZ 2114 shakes when braking, this eloquently indicates the presence of vibration in the car. The reasons why this vibration occurs are very different. We will talk about some of them below. Steering wheel wobble indicates a problem in one or more mechanisms. And if the cause of this vibration is not found in a timely manner and it is not eliminated, then not only will the vibrating unit or part of the car wear out and fail. Vibration will also negatively affect other systems where it is felt.
How to check brake discs for runout?
the device for measuring runout is fixed 5 mm from the brake disc. ... If the discs are significantly worn out, this will be indicated by the following signs:
- jerky braking;
- grinding;
- creak;
- other unusual sounds;
- beating on the steering wheel;
- beating in the gas pedal;
- blocking the brake system when you press the brake pedal.
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19.09.2019
Pad wear
During the operation of the vehicle and the friction of the pads on the brake discs, the pads decrease in size, the free space between the pad and the disc increases, which leads to vibration of the mechanism and beating of the steering wheel. First, the friction linings on the pads wear out. Worn brake pads are replaced in pairs. They should not be allowed to stand with varying degrees of wear and tear. If the pads are not changed in a timely manner, they can wear out to such an extent that they no longer cope with their task and the car’s brakes will fail.
Wrong wheel alignment
Wheel alignment is another important parameter that is set by adjusting the wheel position. Camber is the angle of the wheel relative to the vertical. The fact is that the wheels are installed on the car not strictly parallel to the vertical, but at a slight angle, which is not always noticeable to the average person. Toe-in, or toe-in, is the angle between the plane of rotation and the direction of movement of the car. Wheel alignment affects vehicle stability on the road, cornering, and the rate of tire wear. If this parameter is adjusted incorrectly, the steering wheel may wobble.
Problem with brakes: the steering wheel hits when braking on a VAZ 2110
A couple of thousand ago I noticed a small yeast on the steering wheel when braking from high speed (80 and above) at the very beginning of braking. those. if you immediately settle the car down decently, then there is no yeast, but if you press the pedal a little, there is…. Today my buddy and I took it apart - the pads are beautiful, the discs are normal, the cylinders don't jam. The only thing is that the guides on the calipers are a little loose. Let's go to the store, the new ones still have some play in my caliper. and in the new caliper in the store there is also play, it’s just a little less. Those. the guides do not fit tightly structurally... what else could be the reason. :scratch_one-s_head
Disks. What does normal mean?
This means that they are not crooked and wear is normal. I know what crooked discs are - when braking, it hits the pedal and brakes as if in jerks - but I just have a small yeast!
Yes, and it all started somehow abruptly. and the discs usually gradually begin to fade
crooked rims - when braking it hits the pedal
they send the drums into the steering wheel, they send them into the pedal :big_boss
romex
, check the front wheel balancing
Yesterday I changed my shoes for the summer, had the wheels balanced, but it didn’t help!
I noticed a small yeast on the steering wheel when braking from high speed (80 and above) at the very beginning of braking.
I had a similar experience. There is also a slight vibration at a speed of 80. As you can see, it’s not the brakes. do: chassis diagnostics + wheel alignment, I changed the ball joint, on the left side
romex
, before going to the service station, do this: remove the front wheel, turn it clockwise half a turn, and carefully screw the wheel correctly, i.e. now screw the bolts into the other holes, repeat on the other side, do it yourself
I have yeast only at the moment of braking. There is no vibration when driving. I am familiar with vibration on the steering wheel at 100-110 km due to wheel imbalance - this is not it!
Yesterday we changed two guides on the calipers, removed the wheels and screwed them on according to the rules - nothing has changed!
here is my correspondence with AvtoVAZ JSC
The feedback system of JSC AVTOVAZ received a question from you:
04/10/11 “Hello! car VAZ 21114. At 100,000 km, a problem arose with the brakes - when you press the brake pedal a little, there is a slight vibration (tremor) on the steering wheel. it doesn't respond to the pedal. If you press the pedal hard, there is no shaking. I was guilty of the tension pins in the lower caliper bracket - they were a little loose in the hole, but after inspecting a new caliper with tensioners in the store I saw the same picture. Should there be play in the caliper guides and what is the reason for the shaking on the steering wheel? “
04/10/11 “Good afternoon, Andrey! The cause of vibration may be deformation of the brake discs. Deformation occurs when water gets on heated brake discs. “Department for analyzing the quality of cars in operation. Leading process engineer. Nikolai Nikolaevich Gapchenko
Yeah…. ATE rolled 100 thousand... BRAMBO 35k I wonder how long does ALNAS last? I would like to note that BRAMBO and ALNAS were purchased in Ukraine....
And on topic... There was never any vibration. But there was a pull to the side at the start, and this sign determined an early replacement of the brake discs...
Originally, no one determined by the phases of the moon? :wizard What does “pulling to the side at start” have to do with the brakes? :snoozer_10: :big_boss
What does “pull to the side at start” have to do with the brakes?
Yes, everything is the same... It's time for the disks to go to the landfill! And behind the wheels and Amikam. Determine yours by the moon! Yes…. and it wouldn’t be a bad idea to take other people’s opinions into account….
Yes…. and it wouldn’t be a bad idea to take other people’s opinions into account….
in order to take into account someone else's opinion, it must be correct: chitay_manual
and not heresy otherwise nefik to climb into the mechanism :big_boss :punish let him work in peace
damn :zloy it’s necessary to change the brake discs because they pull away during acceleration
scribe :censored :censored :censored
Okhvitalny FAK AVTOVAZ
Why do “chisels” and “tens” move to the right when accelerating? Articles > Chassis
Question. Why do the “chisels” and “tens” move to the right during acceleration? Explain the physics of the phenomenon.
Answer. The CV joint then transmits constant torque - that’s why it is a CV joint. But if he transmits it at an angle, then another effect appears.
The balls that transmit torque are located in the bisecting plane of the CV joint. In fact, the transmission of moment occurs by a pair of forces, which creates a moment tending to turn the steered wheel (see figure) on shoulder L. The magnitude of these moments on the left and right is the same, if the angles in the outer CV joints are the same - there is no slip. If the axle shafts are of different lengths and the differential axis is parallel to the road (as on 2108 and 2110), then the turning moment on the left (from the side of the short axle shaft) is greater than on the right. The angles of rotation of the wheels arising due to some compliance of the steering drive are also different (more on the left) -> pull to the right. When starting from a standstill, everything is aggravated by the fact that the amount of torque is large and the front part of the car hangs out, increasing the difference in angles in the outer CV joints -> the slip becomes noticeable. There are several ways to combat this phenomenon. The most radical is the axle shafts of the same length, with the same inclination. To implement this for a transversely mounted engine, it is necessary to install an intermediate shaft on the side of the long axle shaft (example - VAZ-21124-07). The solution is quite expensive. It’s cheaper to tilt the power unit to the left and, if necessary, turn it in plan to align the angles in the CV joint, at least statically (example - VAZ-21106). Cheaper, but not radically so. Another method, as a patch, was used, for example, on a Ford Escort. The springs on the right side were installed longer than on the left, then in a static position the car along with the power unit became skewed to the left -> the angles in the outer CV joints were aligned.
At VAZ this topic periodically flares up and then fades away again. At one time, a large amount of research was carried out. For example, the “big and small effect” was identified - the intensity of the pull depends on the weight of the driver (if the mother-in-law is sitting on the passenger seat, then also on her weight. The condition of the supports of the power unit also affects - especially on 2108-09, due to the peculiarities of the location of the supports compared to 2110.
Valerij Lata Sent by S. Kulaga, DTR of AVTOVAZ OJSC
Yura: I've had the stock ones run 100 thousand without any questions - it just started right now. And it’s not a fact that there are discs! :crazy: Makar: you're right - the withdrawal at the start has nothing to do with the discs. As far as I know, this is a design feature - the left axle axis is shorter than the right one - that’s all physics. although you quickly get used to it! The difference is especially noticeable after rear-wheel drive. I switched from seven - it was terrible at first, but now I don’t notice it anymore. It’s just that the Yura is still a racer, firstly, it starts with a row - you have to hold the steering wheel with a death grip, and secondly, there is also paranoia (sorry) - it changes everything ahead of time! :hehe :hehe :hehe
that Jurassic: I changed the balls at 70 thousand - the original ones went exactly the same. I installed how you love imports with the beautiful name Lömförder - I changed one after 30 thousand. I put on INA-type Germanium videos - after 20 thousand they started singing... so it’s all a gamble and a show off; we need to use something that actually works in practice. By the way, the SS-20 racks are still alive - 80 thousand out of the bush...
I have yeast only at the moment of braking. There is no vibration when driving. I am familiar with vibration on the steering wheel at 100-110 km due to wheel imbalance - this is not it!
a year and a half ago: my uncle got behind the wheel, and he remarked to me that when braking at a speed of about 80, a slight tremor appears in the steering wheel, I had already said goodbye to the warranty according to the records, I only did the balancing of the front wheels
my opinion: you need to look in the wheel + tire
After replacing the disks, which were quite worn out, everything fell into place... And acceleration and braking... So, you can post at least a dozen articles, but personal experience is personal experience...
Engine mounts, gearbox mounts and other reasons
This is another possible group of reasons why a car may shake when accelerating. All these problems can arise for various reasons. For example, as a result of examinations, a breakdown of one of the power unit airbags is discovered. It's easy to find out - increase the engine speed when vibrations appear.
Body vibration when accelerating from 80 km/h to 100 km/h can also occur if there is a problem with the gearbox. Testing this hypothesis is very simple. It is recommended to reach a speed of about 85 km/h, then depress the clutch pedal and watch how the car behaves. Engage third gear and release the clutch. Accelerate from 50 km in the last gear of the transmission.
If the nature of the beats does not change during all these events, the gearbox is not to blame. If the vibration level increases when the box is connected to work, then you can check its involvement.
This method is suitable for both manual transmissions and automatic transmissions. In the case of an automatic transmission, at speeds of approximately 90 km/h, turn on 3.2, D, N on the gearbox, and then monitor the operation of the automatic transmission and the car. Watch the vibrations. Most often, the fault of the box in beating is minimal, but practice shows that there is such a possibility.
Defective tires
This drawback occurs quite often, especially when car owners buy used tires rather than new ones. Visually hidden defects are difficult to detect; they do not make themselves felt immediately. Tires also become deformed during operation due to collisions with curbs, stones, and other irregularities. Bumps and breaks form on the tire, which are not always noticeable from the outside, but are very noticeable when driving. What to do with defective and damaged tires? Definitely change them. Less common is disc defects that can cause runout.
A wobbly steering wheel may be caused by one or more wheels being loose. A loose fastening can cause the bolts to come loose and the wheel to fall off. This situation is a dangerous emergency on the road. Therefore, if you feel vibration, do not be lazy, but take the key and check the bolts on the wheels. Body vibration and steering wheel beating are also affected by different tire pressures.
Lack of balancing
Wheel balancing is performed when it is necessary to align the mass of the wheel to the center. The fact is that the rubber density in different parts of the wheel is not the same, and this leads to a shift in the center of gravity of the wheels. This causes vibration, rapid and uneven wear of rubber, and driving a vibrating car is not very comfortable. Wheel imbalance is one of the reasons for the VAZ 2114 steering wheel to wobble. There is only one solution to the problem - go to a tire shop for balancing.
Why does the steering wheel shake? 7 Main Causes of Steering Wheel Vibration
Care and attention to the technical condition of the car is our direct responsibility. And it doesn’t matter how we feel about it, whether it’s a “workhorse” for us, a means of transportation or a luxury item. First of all, its serviceability is our safety.
And one of the reasons to pay serious attention to your car is the vibration of the steering wheel when driving, or, as experienced drivers say, the beating of the steering wheel. It is expressed in completely different ways and at different speeds, for some at 30 km/h, and for others at 70 km/h. It doesn't really matter. What matters is the fact that there is something wrong with the mechanical part of the car. Let's look together at the seven main causes of this vibration and how to eliminate them. And I’ll tell you about another interesting reason, which is rare, at the end.
Unreliable wheel mounts
This problem is also easy to fix and diagnose. This is a simple but very dangerous reason. The fastenings can be loosened even on one wheel, and this is enough to cause shaking. If the problem is not resolved in time, emergency situations may occur. If the wheel falls off while driving, the repair will be quite expensive - you will have to replace the disc and hub, and the brake disc.
The symptoms in this case are very similar to vibrations due to tires or bent wheels. But there is a cyclical pattern here, although not at all speeds.
What to do if the brake system is working properly.
If a visual inspection does not reveal any faults, or after replacing any elements the problem still persists, you need to check the following elements:
- wheel balancing.
- suspension arms, their fastenings
- brake system fastening elements
Problems with the brake system should not be ignored. In the future, this can lead to more expensive repairs or accidents on the roads.
Brakes, without exaggeration, are the most important system of any vehicle, since not only a calm and comfortable ride, but also the life of the driver and his passengers depends on its smooth and uninterrupted operation. The validity of this statement is confirmed by many years of statistics and personal experience of a multi-million army of car enthusiasts.
There are quite frequent cases when symptoms appeared in an apparently serviceable braking system that forced the car owner to be at a loss about the true technical condition of the brake system elements. Let's look at the most common of them.
Suspension faults
Ball joints are devices related to the suspension that support the vertical position of the front wheels. These supports are subject to rapid wear, which depends on the vehicle's driving technique and the quality of the roads. Vibration of the steering wheel is one of the signs of wear on the ball joints. The picture shows the ball joint of the wheel.
Faulty CV joints not only make noise and crunch, but also provoke unnecessary vibration. A crunch will indicate that the problem is with the grenades. Shock absorber struts are designed to dampen any vibrations and beating. If the racks are faulty, they will not do their job.
Steering wheel wobble also occurs in the steering mechanism itself. The following are malfunctions of the steering mechanism that cause the steering wheel to wobble:
- faulty steering tips, play in the steering rack;
- worn steering gear bearings;
- the steering shaft (steering cardan) has exhausted its service life and is out of order.
Special diagnostic equipment in a car service center will help you find the true reason why the steering wheel shakes at speed.
Wheel imbalance
Wheels, like tires, although they have an ideal appearance, and even on rolling machines their shape is absolutely ideal, unfortunately, they have different densities of the material from which they are made. For example, the density of the alloy in the disk may differ in different places, which in turn will add or decrease weight in this place. The same is true with tires. Thus, when assembling the wheel, we get an imbalance caused by different weights in different places of the wheel as it rotates. Which in turn will lead to vibration in the steering wheel at speeds of approximately 80 km/h. This can be corrected by balancing the wheels at a tire shop.
