Can the steering wheel shake because of the CV joint on a VAZ 2114?

The steering wheel hits: causes and methods of elimination

If you feel the steering wheel wobbling at speeds from 70 to 110 km/h or when braking, then it’s time to check your car.

The steering wheel shakes at speed or when braking - and you understand - that’s it, it’s time to slow down. It’s hard to describe the feelings that arise when driving a car (no matter what brand - be it a domestic VAZ or a foreign car), when the steering wheel of your car begins to twitch intensely and completely uncontrollably in your hands, and most importantly, so suddenly and at the wrong time. I'll tell you a case from my practice. I have a GOLF 2 1.6D car. Not long ago, my steering wheel began to shake at speeds from 70 to 110 km/h, at lower speeds it did not shake, and if the road was in the shape of a washboard, the steering wheel would generally try (and sometimes tear) out of my hands.

The simplest solution would be to send the car to a service station and let the auto mechanics deal with it. But no one will give you any guarantee that they will do it very quickly and at the same time will not rip you off for repairs - replacing your entire steering system, without trying to understand the causes of your problem. Or by replacing each of the components below in turn and ensuring that after that everything will be fine with the car. Which will take you a lot of effort and money, as well as a lot of time.

There can be quite a few reasons leading to the steering wheel wobbling at speed or when braking:

uneven and severe wear of the brake pads of the front wheels;

For this reason, I took the path of the least financial and time costs - first of all, I checked what could be checked without resorting to the use of complex and expensive equipment. Here is a list of 6 reasons why the steering wheel shakes, as well as methods for solving them:

Electric power steering (EGUR)

According to the principle of operation, electric power steering is not much different from conventional power steering. The main difference is that here the power steering pump is driven not by the internal combustion engine, but by an electric motor. The system also includes an electronic control unit.

The pump itself (geared motor) can be of two types: vane and gear. The second type is considered more reliable.

EPS is installed on many foreign cars, for example, Ford Focus 2, Skoda Fabia, Mazda 3. And also on some domestic cars, for example, Lada X-Ray.

Let's look at the reasons why the steering wheel turns tightly, using the Mazda 3 as an example:

Deformation of the steering rack. The problem is solved only by replacing the latter;
Low voltage in the on-board network. The battery is dead, the generator is malfunctioning.
Incorrect steering wheel calibration or the ECU does not see its position at all. The previous and this problem can be easily diagnosed in the service.
The relay has failed. On Mazda 3 it is located under the hood in the fuse box. But perhaps the relay has not failed, but the contacts under the block itself have rotted - this is a Mazda 3 disease.
The power steering fuse has failed or the power supply circuit to the electric motor has broken. Sometimes, in order to find an open circuit, you have to remove the entire pump. The problem is diagnosed at the service.
The steering rack is installed incorrectly after repair or replacement.
Other causes related to power steering.

Wheel imbalance

First of all, I checked the presence of balancing weights on each wheel - they were all in place, but I dare to assure you that this is not a hundred percent guarantee that the wheels are not unbalanced. This can only be determined using special stands or instruments. So I postponed further testing at the stand until a later time (since this requires money and equipment).

Front wheel brake pads

Then it was time to check another of the most common causes of steering wheel wobble at speed - wear of the front brake pads. The main symptom of pad wear is the steering wheel wobbling when braking. To do this, I jacked up the car and removed the front wheels one by one. There was wear and tear, of course, but not much. He simply could not cause such a beating.

Steering rods

Next, what most often leads to steering wheel wobble is wear on the tips and wear on the steering rods. I checked the steering rods - there is no shackle in them. In order to check this, I asked my wife to hold the steering wheel firmly in one position, and after jacking up the car, I pulled the steering rods one by one, and there should be no free play. If there is free play or the steering rod is loose, this may be the cause of the steering wheel wobbling, or the steering rod breaking off while driving and a complete loss of vehicle control at speed, respectively. This rod needs to be replaced. It should also be remembered that after replacing the steering rods, it is necessary to perform an alignment of the car wheels.

Wrong wheel alignment

Wheel alignment is another important parameter that is set by adjusting the wheel position. Camber is the angle of the wheel relative to the vertical. The fact is that the wheels are installed on the car not strictly parallel to the vertical, but at a slight angle, which is not always noticeable to the average person. Toe-in, or toe-in, is the angle between the plane of rotation and the direction of movement of the car. Wheel alignment affects vehicle stability on the road, cornering, and the rate of tire wear. If this parameter is adjusted incorrectly, the steering wheel may wobble.

Steering rack

Severe wear on the steering rack can also cause the steering wheel to wobble at speed. When it wears out, the free play of the steering wheel also increases. To eliminate this problem, I tightened the steering rack clamp adjusting bolt. I tightened the bolt to the point where, while driving, after making a turn, the steering wheel itself does not return to the “zero” position, after which I loosened the bolt to one side. The beating has decreased a little, but still remains. Thus, I found out that the partial runout of the steering wheel was caused by the play on the steering rack.

Spherical bearing

After that, I checked the wheel shank on the ball joint - there was no shackle. To check the shank in the ball joint, it is necessary to jack up the car and place the ball joint on a static support standing on the ground, so that the wheel is completely in the air (you can use a steel cylinder, a wooden ingot, or a hydraulic jack as a support). Then take the upper part of the wheel with one hand, and the lower part of the wheel with the other hand and try to shake the wheel, pulling the upper and lower parts of the wheel towards you and away from you, respectively. If there is a shank, it means that the ball joint is worn and needs to be replaced.

The last reason is the cardan transmission

The time has come to search for information on the Internet and using folk methods - I started asking auto mechanics and all my friends who have cars and had problems with the steering, what it could be and how to deal with it. There were a lot of assumptions, and completely remove the steering - then see what is there - but this would take a long time and would lead to large temporary losses. One day one of my friends recommended that I look at the small cardan transmission that is in the steering column. It is quite easy to carry out the inspection procedure; to do this, you need to remove the lower casing of the steering column and go down it down to the bend, where the steering column enters the car body, where the driveline is located. Pulling it, I discovered a slight shatter. After that, I removed the cardan transmission and, having disassembled it, discovered a wear there, which, as it turned out, created such a beating at speed. After replacing the cardan transmission, the beating went away - now the ride became comfortable.

Video about the causes of steering wheel vibration:

Source

Beating and vibration of the steering wheel in different modes

Finding the cause of the steering wheel beating can be greatly facilitated if you divide all the symptoms into groups depending on the mode of operation of the car. A total of 7 such groups will be considered. Each operating mode of the machine has its own faults.

But keep in mind that some of the defects described here can cause the steering wheel to vibrate in several modes at the same time. That is, for example, the problem is felt both while parked with the engine running and when driving at a certain speed. Other breakdowns are unique in their own way, that is, they manifest themselves only in certain modes. Where this is the case, there are corresponding comments.

Low oil level

If the steering wheel is difficult to turn, the reason may be a low fluid level in the power steering reservoir. This situation could arise for three reasons:

The oil was not changed in a timely manner.
Gradual wear of power steering elements.
Damage to any element of the power steering on the road.

If the first situation occurs, you simply need to replace the fluid with a new one, filling the tank to the maximum mark.

If the second situation occurs and a slight leak of fluid is detected, then it is necessary to add fluid and inspect the system elements in the near future.

If the oil leakage is significant, since the hydraulic system has recently received serious damage, you cannot drive with power steering. Most power steering pumps in modern cars will suffer serious scuffing and damage if they continue to be used without oil.

In order to continue driving the vehicle, it is necessary to dismantle the drive belt of the power steering pump or call a tow truck.

Idle parking

Many people mistakenly believe that the causes of steering wheel vibration at idle are harmless and do not require prompt elimination. The car is standing still - what could happen? However, some of the defects discussed below are quite dangerous, so they may well make themselves felt not only while parked, but also when driving at a decent speed. Therefore, you should not neglect even this kind of vibration of the steering wheel.

Reason #1. Worn or loose engine mounts

In the vast majority of cases, this reason provokes vibrations not only in the steering wheel, but is also transmitted through the body. In particular, poorly attached plastic parts of the interior, dashboard, and so on can make annoying noise due to shaking. In this case, vibrations on the steering wheel can be felt not only when parked with the engine running, but also in absolutely any other modes listed in the list above.

Identifying a defect of this kind is quite simple. To do this, just open the hood and look at the engine idling. Ideally, the power unit should not twitch even when operating at low speeds. Moreover, regardless of the year of manufacture of your car. On a securely mounted and balanced motor, you can place a coin on its edge and it will not fall.

If the engine “sausages”, the first thing you should pay attention to is the so-called cushions through which it is attached to the body or subframe of the car. The task of these supports is precisely to dampen the smallest vibrations. But, if they are worn out, or the fasteners that secure them are loosened, the shaking will periodically intensify due to the resonating effect. Accordingly, not only the steering wheel, but also the entire car will vibrate, whether when parked or when driving.

Unfortunately, simply tightening the fasteners in such cases rarely helps. More often you have to change those same shock-absorbing pillows. They are relatively inexpensive, but the procedure for replacing them can discourage beginners from rolling up their sleeves with its apparent complexity.

Reason #2. Triggering engine

A throttled engine is one in which not all cylinders operate evenly and without interruption. If one (or more) of them has misfires, interruptions in the fuel supply (in diesel engines) or the air-fuel mixture (in gasoline engines), compression problems and other problems, the engine will misfire. Physically, this defect manifests itself in the form of vibration, which is caused by a violation of weight and inertial balance. Accordingly, vibrations of the steering wheel are accompanied in such cases by shaking of the entire car, but they also differ from the previous cause by a decrease in dynamics.

It is not always easy for beginners to identify a stalling motor, much less find the cause of the problem. As a rule, in addition to the vibration of the steering wheel in such a breakdown, symptoms such as unstable operation of the engine, “dullness” of the car during acceleration, and others are added. Well, finding the reason why the engine is tripping is a whole epic that requires a separate article.

Reason #3. Idle speed too low

In this case, everything is extremely simple. If the crankshaft rotation speed at idle is insufficient, the engine begins to operate unstably. The defect appears both constantly and under certain conditions. For example, idle speed may drop below normal after turning on the heater, headlights, or any other powerful load. In a working car, this whole thing should be compensated, and as a result the idle is maintained at the desired level.

Similar to the previous problem, there is no particular point in describing the solution to this one within a couple of paragraphs. The topic is vast, and its development depends on a number of factors. Only one thing remains clear - low or periodically falling idle speeds may well cause vibration or systematic shaking of the steering wheel. It is quite logical and natural that the problem disappears when the engine runs at medium and high speeds.

Reason #4. Steering rack drive shaft wear

This part is designed to convert the torque created by the efforts of the driver's hands into forward movement of the steering rack. When this unit is broken, engine vibrations through it may well be transmitted to the steering wheel, even if the car is just standing still. Also, the source of nasty shaking on the steering wheel in this case may be incorrect operation of the hydraulic booster.

Diagnosing this breakdown in a garage environment is very difficult and slow. So, if you are a novice car enthusiast (and this is exactly what this material is designed for), or if you don’t fundamentally tinker with your car with your own hands, contact a specialist with a ready-made task.

Electronics problems

If after checking it turns out that the ignition system is fully operational, you should pay attention to the on-board electronics, and first of all, to the electronic control unit. If it fails, it will not be possible to repair it, since it is not a repairable device

Ignition module VAZ 2114

But, in some cases, flashing it ER19 can help, after which fuel consumption is normalized, and vibration in the body of the VAZ 2114 completely disappears.

If the ECU is working properly, then you should check the idle speed sensor.

To do this you will need:

Remove the sensor.
Disconnect the terminals from it.
Turn the multimeter into ohmmeter mode with a range of up to 200 Ohms and attach its probes to the sensor contacts.
If the latter is working properly, then the resistance will be in the range from 50 to 80 Ohms. Otherwise, the sensor should be replaced with a new one of the same model. Checking the idle speed sensor VAZ 2114

The next step in troubleshooting is to check the mass air flow sensor.

It is performed according to the following scheme:

Disconnect the terminals from the sensor contacts, and then connect the multimeter probes to the latter.
Set the tester to voltmeter mode with a range of up to 2 volts.
Take voltage measurements with the engine running and off.
If the sensor is working properly, in both cases it should be in the range from 0.9 to 1 volt. Checking the air flow sensor of the VAZ 2114

If the air flow sensor also turns out to be working, then the problem should be looked for in the EGR sensor, which is responsible for exhaust gas recovery. This device, which has a conical shape, does not need to be checked with a multimeter - it is enough to blow it with any spray to clean the injectors or carburetor (by the way, such cleaning should be done periodically, regardless of the correctness of the current operation of this sensor).

Overclocking

Vibrations in the steering wheel are extremely rare exclusively during acceleration. As a rule, if they exist, they are duplicated in other driving modes. Again, the 4 reasons already discussed for the steering wheel beating at idle may well appear during acceleration. But, despite this, there are still some defects that can claim to be unique causes of vibration during acceleration. We will consider them first, and the rest - to the heap, as they say.

Reason #5. Unbalanced wheels

Probably the most common cause of steering wheel beating during acceleration is wheel imbalance. In its own way, this is a unique defect that rarely appears in any other mode of vehicle movement. Including, as a rule, steering wheel vibrations gradually or suddenly disappear as soon as a decent speed is gained, or it decreases. We emphasize - only, as a rule, but not in 100% of cases. Sometimes unbalanced wheels can be felt on the steering wheel either during acceleration, at speed, or when braking.

What wheels are called unbalanced? These are considered to be those wheels whose weight is unevenly distributed around the entire circumference. That is, roughly speaking, on one side the wheel is a little heavier than at other points. And since these car parts rotate, they are largely subject to the influence of centrifugal force. And when the wheels are not balanced in weight, different centrifugal forces act on different points on them. Hence the vibrations on the steering wheel.

The first thing you can do is inspect the rims for any stuck dirt or snow if it's winter outside. Despite the apparent innocence, even small accumulations of dirt, snow or ice lead to a significant imbalance in weight. Accordingly, cleaning and washing with further regular maintenance completely solves this problem.

If the rims are clean, the next step is to inspect the tire treads. Small pebbles often get stuck in them, which, despite their miniscule weight, in sufficient quantities can become a very real cause of vibration on the steering wheel. Winter tires especially “like” to accumulate such things.

And one last thing. To prevent the wheels of the car from causing vibration in the steering wheel during acceleration and movement due to imbalance, they must be balanced in a timely manner at the appropriate services. This service is cheap, and there is no point in repeating it often. As a rule, seasonal balancing is enough, when winter tires are changed to summer tires, and vice versa. Here it is quite reasonable to make a remark that applies to fans of so-called all-season tires, which are used on a car for several years. Naturally, no one usually does any balancing in such cases twice a year. Meanwhile, she is so needed.

Wheels

If, when the car reaches a certain speed, the steering wheel begins to shake, first of all you need to pay attention to the condition of the wheels and tires. A broken slope is a car tire that has become deformed due to an impact or falling into a hole and has a bump or other distortion on its surface.

And if at lower speeds such a problem manifests itself little, then with increasing speed, vibration also increases. It is almost impossible to eliminate the deformation of a tire; you can move the wheel on which such a tire is mounted back. Perhaps in this case the vibration will decrease, but the damaged ramp will have to be replaced, one way or another

A broken slope is a car tire that has become deformed due to an impact or falling into a hole and has a bump or other distortion on its surface. And if at lower speeds such a problem manifests itself little, then with increasing speed, vibration also increases. It is almost impossible to eliminate the deformation of a tire; you can move the wheel on which such a tire is mounted back. Perhaps in this case the vibration will decrease, but the damaged ramp will have to be replaced, one way or another.

Installing tires that do not match the surface can also cause the steering wheel to vibrate at speed. For example, if you install off-road tires, then on a normal highway, vibration may occur.

Misaligned side members, or other deformation of the car frame, can lead to incorrect wheel alignment angles. In this case, they say that the car is eating rubber. But in addition to rapid tire wear, vibration in the steering wheel may occur when a certain speed is reached.

Poorly tightened nuts that secure the wheels can easily cause the steering wheel to shake at high speed, and this is already very dangerous. Therefore, do not forget to check the condition of your wheels, as well as the reliability of their fastening.

Impaired wheel rim balancing is probably one of the most common causes of steering wheel vibration that occurs at speed. Balancing may be disrupted due to dirt adhering to some part of the wheel rim, due to a hole caught at speed, or other shock impacts on the wheel. In principle, it is possible to restore the imbalanced wheel rim, but it can no longer be called ideal. Except, of course, the case of dirt sticking. It just needs to be removed from the wheel.

Driving in a straight line at low speeds

There are also reasons for steering wheel beating that manifest themselves exclusively when driving at low and medium speeds. Again, we should not exclude the defects already discussed, just like those described below in other sections.

Reason #10. Disc deformation

A fairly common cause of steering wheel wobble at low and medium speeds. Most likely, even novice drivers do not need to explain in detail what deformation is and where it comes from. With our famous roads this is almost a “number uno” problem.

Finding the cause is simple and involves a visual inspection of the wheel rims. Particular attention is paid to those places where the tire “sits” on the rim. This place is called the rim of the wheel, and it is this place that is the first to suffer from hitting potholes and other road irregularities. We must also not forget that a wheel rim, no matter how strange it may sound, has two sides - outer and inner. So, the inner side is often forgotten, never looking at it. Meanwhile, according to the law of meanness, deformations, which are a common cause of steering wheel beating, are located exactly there.

Repair here is simple and relatively inexpensive, if the disk is not in the trash. A common procedure called rolling returns the wheels to a perfect circle shape, and the vibrations may well disappear completely. Of course, it will be a little more difficult and more expensive for those who have cast or forged wheels. Even if these are subject to rolling, it is done with difficulty, for which specialists want appropriate payment. There are never any problems with steel discs, unless they burst.

When preparing this material, information was found on the Internet that stamped steel disks are sometimes even leveled to perfection using a sledgehammer. Who knows, maybe we have such daredevil blacksmiths, but in the (subjective) opinion of the author, trusting such craftsmen with the wheels of your car is a bad idea...

Reason #11. Unadjusted camber and toe

Here, too, apparently, nothing special needs to be explained. Suffice it to say that wheels “looking” in different directions is a sure cause of steering wheel vibration. The problem appears more often during acceleration and when driving at low speeds. When a significant speed is reached, it usually disappears temporarily.

Diagnosis is simple if the case is very advanced. Crooked wheels are visible to the naked eye. In any case, even if the deviation is not visible without equipment, it will not be possible to adjust the camber and toe without them. It doesn't work by eye here. Therefore, if you have any suspicions about this, or simply haven’t had your camber and toe-in adjustments done for a long time, contact the appropriate service. The procedure is not so expensive that you would waste money on performing it at least twice a year.

Features of the internal combustion engine

Any four-cylinder, four-stroke engine is unbalanced. It would seem: two pistons go down, two go up, everything is balanced. But second-order inertial forces remain uncompensated, which try to shake the entire engine up and down with a frequency twice the crankshaft speed. To combat this phenomenon, a scheme was invented with two balancing shafts rotating in opposite directions twice as fast as the crankshaft. These shafts, with their vibrations, make it possible to completely compensate for vibrations caused by the imbalance of the connecting rod and piston group. An example would be the Nissan MR20DE engine, which is found on our popular X-Trail and Qashqai crossovers.

The balancer shafts are strictly synchronized with each other by gears, and the drive from the crankshaft is carried out by a chain.

Why don’t VAZ motorists use this solution? The fact is that such systems are installed on engines with a displacement of 2 liters or more. For such a motor, the mass of the piston and connecting rod assembly turns out to be quite large. If the working volume is smaller, then the piston diameter and connecting rod length are also smaller - as is the total weight of the parts. As a result, there are fewer vibrations. The largest mass-produced engine in Togliatti has a displacement of 1.8 liters. Therefore, there are no balancing shafts here.

Driving in a straight line at high speeds

Quite often, those causes of beating in the steering wheel that do not appear during acceleration or during measured movement create fear on the highway. When the speed exceeds 100-120 km/h. Moreover, on a seemingly absolutely flat road. There are only two unique reasons here. Let's talk about them a little. But let’s also not forget about what has already been said, since crooked wheels, defects in the steering mechanism and chassis can also make themselves felt only at a respectable speed.

Reason #12. Cones

They're hernias. These are fairly common tire defects that appear due to the destruction of the stiffening frame - or the cord made of wire (threads). When the cord breaks in a certain place, due to decent pressure in this place, a lump comes out. Firstly, it leads to imbalance. Secondly, the hernia may be right on the contact patch of the tire with the road, causing the car to seem to bounce slightly with each revolution of the damaged wheel. When the speed is high, all this turns into small, but rather unpleasant vibrations on the steering wheel.

By the way, many car enthusiasts note that by the speed of the car it is sometimes possible to determine on which axis there is a defect that causes the steering wheel to wobble. It is believed that if vibrations occur at speeds of 90-100 km/h, then the problem should be looked for, first of all, on the wheels of the front axle. Accordingly, if the steering wheel shakes after the speedometer needle goes beyond 110-120 km/h and beyond, the rear axle is “to blame.” Unfortunately, in practice it cannot be proven that this is 100% true, and it always repeats itself in the same way. But it still doesn’t hurt to keep this information in mind. Who knows, maybe this will be the case for you, and you will quickly find the cause of the steering wheel beating...

Reason #13. Different tire pressures

This may also well lead to unpleasant vibrations in the steering wheel, but only under one condition. It lies in the fact that the pressure should be different in the wheels on the same axle, and the difference should be quite significant. The physics of vibrations for this reason is quite simple. An empty wheel has a smaller diameter and, accordingly, a smaller circumference. Because of this, it periodically pulls to the side, which at low speeds is felt in the form of excess load on the steering wheel, and at a decent speed - in the form of vibrations and rather terrible wobbles.

The solution to the problem is simple and obvious. The tire pressure needs to be equalized, and this must be done, moreover, regularly. Especially if the tires are not new, or you often drive on terrible roads, which is generally the norm for some domestic car owners.

Vibration when accelerating

This is terrible, especially when you need to accelerate quickly, for example if you need to overtake another car. Often when you press the pedal, acceleration is jerky and uneven. To make a correct diagnosis, you need to follow a few simple steps.

Check the oil level in the gearbox. Surprisingly, low transmission oil levels cause vibrations and shaking during acceleration. The car may also noticeably lose its dynamic characteristics. Jerking when pressing the accelerator pedal - this can also be a consequence of a lack of oil.

A dirty automatic transmission filter leads to various unpleasant effects. You can do the replacement yourself or use the services of specialists.

A worn driveshaft is a guaranteed noticeable vibration of the car when accelerating. The weak point here is the cross. Replace the part if necessary, otherwise it may cause more serious damage.

Also, such a nuisance can be caused by uneven engine operation. This often happens after renovations. Sometimes service station professionals simply forget to balance the crankshaft and flywheel. Another reason is an incorrectly configured carburetor.

Maneuvering

There are only three reasons why the steering wheel vibrates during maneuvering, that is, during cornering or when aggressively changing from lane to lane. However, it is possible that the problem is what has already been discussed above. Although in such situations, steering wheel beating is observed not only during maneuvering.

Reason #14. Worn CV joint

CV joints are constant velocity joints. They are designed to transmit torque from a gearbox or gearbox to the drive wheels. They are designed quite cleverly and, since they are directly attached to at least a pair of wheels on the same axle, they are quite capable of causing vibration in the steering wheel.

As a rule, if the car is front-wheel drive, then wear on the CV joint can be heard when the car turns or turns with the steering wheel turned completely. People say that they crunch when doing so. If the car is rear-wheel drive, then a broken CV joint should probably not be the cause of steering wheel vibration. Such problems manifest themselves in a different way - the same crunching, knocking, sometimes metallic grinding, as well as twitching of the entire car due to the fact that one of the CV joints is already jammed.

Reason #15. Steering gear bearing wear

These bearings are located in the gearbox, through which the force of the steering wheel is transmitted further along the mechanism to the front wheels. When they wear out, not only vibrations of the steering wheel appear, but also its noticeable play. Repairs, unfortunately, are complex and not always inexpensive. But these same bearings break quite quickly due to bad roads. In some cars this is a sore spot, as their owners say.

Reason #16. Worn steering column driveshaft

Connects the steering wheel to the gearbox and other parts of the steering mechanism. The bushings in it wear out, which are often made of plastic, and very often of extremely poor quality. The steering column cardan itself is also not hanging in the air, and therefore the support bushings or bearings can also wear out, which will cause annoying vibrations in the steering wheel. It is not difficult to identify this breakdown, since the steering wheel play is also added to the vibrations.

Reason #17. Wear of anti-roll bar bushings

Such a breakdown leads to much more serious problems than simple vibrations of the steering wheel when turning. Fortunately, this part is easy to diagnose and repair. Roughly speaking, this is, in a special way, a curved iron bar fixed at four points. At these very points there are rubber bushings that need to be inspected for wear.

Braking

It is quite natural that many of the already discussed causes of steering wheel vibration may well be duplicated during braking. But there are also those who manifest themselves precisely in this mode. This property makes them unique in their own way, and therefore easy to diagnose.

Reason #18. Warped brake discs or drums

Everything is simple here. When braking, the brake pads do not slide on a flat surface, which is why the steering wheel wobbles. As a rule, the cause is accompanied by vibration of the brake pedal, felt by the foot. Warped discs are often visible to the naked eye, although sometimes the problem is only revealed when examined by a specialist.

Reason #19. Uneven wear on brake discs or drums

The same. Vibrations are present not only in the steering wheel, but also in the brake pedal. The development is also clearly visible, and therefore diagnosing this problem does not require special knowledge and experience. The same, again, cannot be said about repairs.

Crooked wheels

Although roads in big cities are getting better, this is not happening everywhere. And here and there we come across potholes, potholes and holes into which we drive with our wheels, thereby damaging either tires or wheels. And it happens that both of them happen, so much so that it is no longer possible to restore them. So, after such damage, strange vibrations appear, which can also manifest themselves both in the body and in the steering wheel. To determine this, it is necessary to remove the wheels and conduct a visual inspection of the rim for dents and deformations. But more accurately, this can be seen on a balancing machine in a tire shop, when the wheel rotates. There you can clearly see whether the disc is hitting or whether the tire itself is bent. Since the tire has a metal cord inside, with a strong impact it breaks and a lump or hernia appears on the wheel, as a result of which the rubber is deformed and becomes egg-shaped. This can be corrected in this way: replace the tire and roll the disc on a rolling machine.

Driving on a bad road

Our long list of possible causes of steering wheel wobble is completed by a defect that manifests itself mainly when driving on a bad road. This also includes driving on cobblestones, which may well be quite good.

Reason #20. Wear of ball joints

Ball joints are the units on which the front wheels seem to rest. In our time, they wear out quite quickly and provoke vibrations on the steering wheel, as a rule, during straight-line movement over holes, potholes, speed bumps, and so on. Checking ball joints is quite difficult. To do this, you need to hang the car on a jack or lift, and then use some kind of lever to influence this unit. Even fairly significant wear cannot be detected by simply tugging with the naked hand.