Hello, dear friends! Your own safety, as well as the safety of other people, directly depends on the proper operation of the steering on your car. Therefore, if the steering wheel returns to its original position, this is a signal that a certain malfunction has occurred.
But which one exactly? There are several options. You need to study the features and symptoms of each of them, and determine what suits your specific situation.
Quite often, motorists notice in their car that when they turn the steering wheel or just the steering wheel, it stubbornly does not return, although it should. This can happen in different ways. For some it just spins tightly, for others it returns, but not completely, the movements back occur in jerks.
In normal condition, the steering wheel should return to the center position or zero. But if after turning this does not happen, certain problems arise with the steering due to its incorrect operation, measures need to be taken.
Why does a car's steering wheel become heavy - reasons for a heavy car steering wheel
It’s worth noting right away that the article will only consider cars equipped with power steering, since cars without power steering are a rarity , if not a rarity. Most owners of such cars know all the faults by heart and can fix them right in their garage.
So, heavy steering wheel - reasons:
- The simplest reason why the steering wheel turns hard is the lack of power steering fluid in the expansion tank.
- The next reason for a heavy steering wheel is wear and sometimes failure of the power steering pump .
- If the steering wheel becomes difficult to turn, the reason may be the presence of air in the power steering system.
- It's also worth checking the drive belt. It may be very worn or loose. Both malfunctions can be the reason why the steering wheel turns hard.
- The last reason that is worth mentioning, as always, is the most unpleasant: there is a defect in the gearbox or steering rack .
We turn on the brake lights forcibly
Relay K1 is successfully replaced with a pad with jumpers. In Fig. 1 just shows its diagram. If there is no such platform, you can temporarily close contacts 4-5. First, check everything mentioned above.
Have an observer watch what happens to the lamps. Press the pedal with one touch and release it. If the lamps do not turn on, check that the fuse is working properly. It's burned out, which means you're looking for a short circuit.
How to and how not to check the “0 Volt” potential
Let’s agree right away that we only work with a voltmeter. Voltage “+12” is caused by connecting one probe to ground. The presence of potential “zero” is checked differently: any of the probes is connected to a terminal with positive voltage, and then the second probe is connected to the wire being tested.
Consider the error: one probe is connected to ground, the second to the terminal being tested, and vol. Here they conclude that there is a “mass” potential, but this is wrong! If the contact with ground is broken, the device will also show “0”. That is, the number “0” does not contain information.
Expert opinion
It-Technology, Electrical power and electronics specialist
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What to do if the car’s steering wheel turns hard - instructions for action
If you notice that your steering wheel is hard to turn with the power steering, you shouldn’t rely on the simple Russian expression “it’ll ride again . Such neglect of a malfunction can result in expensive repairs.
- Stop the car and at least take the trouble to look under the hood. The first thing that should interest you is the power steering fluid reservoir . If it is empty, then we go to the nearest auto parts store or gas station.
- We buy liquid and fill the tank to the maximum allowable level.
- check the fluid level in the tank by starting the car engine.
- Please note - after stopping you do not go anywhere so as not to aggravate the problem. It is better to leave the car in the parking lot.
Probable sources of knocking
Shock absorbers - source of noise
The rear suspension includes the following components:
- Guide structure.
- Shock absorbers.
- Twisted coil springs.
- Cups and mounting brackets, as well as rubber bushings.
There really is something to cause a knock in the rear suspension. Therefore, if knocking is a frequent occurrence, you need to spend 1-2 hours and diagnose the rear suspension of your own car. Of course, you can contact a service station for specialist help, or do it at home, thereby saving your time and money.
Power steering and heavy steering - how to troubleshoot?
Now let's try to figure out how to fix other power steering faults.
- Remember, if the steering wheel turns hard, but there is still fluid in the tank, this does not mean that the reason is elsewhere. Start the engine and check the level again. The liquid may either completely disappear from the tank, or its level will be catastrophically low. In this case, it is enough to simply add fluid to the maximum level and hope that the lack of the latter does not lead to other malfunctions.
- To diagnose the power steering pump, it is recommended to contact a car repair shop (Professional car repair in St. Petersburg - Autopride service station). If this is the reason, then the pump must be sent for repair, or possibly replaced with a new one. If it is not possible to visit a diagnostic station, it is recommended to check the pump control valve for blockages. If there are any, the valve must be cleaned and flushed.
- You can remove air from the power steering system by rotating the steering wheel from one extreme position to the other. As you can see, the deaeration procedure is simple, but you still need to understand where the air in the system comes from? To do this, check all connecting hoses and, if damage is found, replace them. Check the clamps at the joints, if necessary, tighten them or replace them. If the described procedures do not help, it is recommended to contact a specialist.
- This point is simple. When the belt wears out, it changes. With low tension, it tightens. If the procedure cannot be performed independently, contact a service station.
- If the problem is in the steering rack or gearbox, then they must be sent in for repair. If it is impossible to repair the damaged unit, it will require an expensive purchase followed by replacement, which is also not recommended to be done independently.
General recommendation for power steering maintenance: check the fluid level in the expansion tank at least once a month .
If the level has dropped, add fluid ; if it drops constantly and at high speed, look for the leak and do not delay repairs.
Monitor the condition of the steering rack boot , and if necessary, replace it.
To understand why the steering wheel turns tightly, you need to find out what type of steering is installed on your car - a regular one with a steering rack, in addition to a hydraulic booster (power steering) and an electric power steering (EUR), combined (EGUR), with a pre-amplifier. Let's look at the first four cases, which are the most common.
First, we will dwell on the general causes of a tight steering wheel, then we will distribute them by type of steering, focusing in more detail on the VAZ 2105, 2106 (and other models from this line), 2109, Chevrolet Lacetti, BMW e39, Mazda 3, Volvo xc90, Renault Symbol and Gazelle.
Circuit breakers
Now let's see which fuses are responsible for what in the same mounting block. I will also give the main reasons for troubleshooting.
F1 (5 A) - license plate lighting lamps, dashboard lighting, side lights on the panel, trunk lamp, left side lights . If any of the listed lamps do not work, check this fuse, as well as the lamps themselves and their contacts. If everything is in order, check the headlight switch button.
F2 (7.5 A) - low beam in the left headlight . If both low beam headlights do not work, also check relay K4 and the lamps themselves. It could also be the light switch and its contacts.
F3 (10 A) - high beam in the left headlight . If both high beam headlights do not work, check the K5 relay, the lamps themselves and the high beam switch knob.
F4 (10 A) - front fog lamp on the right side . If both fog lights do not work, check relay 9 and the headlight bulbs themselves, as well as the switch and its contacts.
F5 (30 A) - window lift motors . If the power windows do not work, check this fuse and relay 5. In winter, check if the windows are frozen, warm them up and clear them of ice if necessary. It could also be the window lift motor, its mechanism and gears; in order to get to it, you need to remove the trim of the desired door.
F6 (15 A) - portable lamp fuse.
There may also be problems with the cigarette lighter. To check, unplug the cigarette lighter from the connector. If this fuse stops burning, then the problem is in the cigarette lighter.
F7 (20 A) - engine cooling fan, sound signal . If the cooling fan does not turn on and the engine overheats, check this fuse. Also check the operation of the fan motor by connecting it directly to the battery. It could also be the coolant temperature sensor or thermostat.
F8 (20 A) - heated rear window (element) . If the heating does not work and the rear window fogs up, check this fuse, fuse F9 and relay K7. Also check the contacts on the terminals of the heating elements, check the wiring, sometimes the wire frays. It could also be the heating switch and its contacts.
F11 (5 A) - right side dimensions . If the left side does not work, check fuse F1. If none of the side lights work, check the light switch and its contacts. Also check the dimensions of the lamps themselves.
F12 (7.5 A) - low beam in the right headlight . Similar to fuse F2 for the left headlight.
F13 (10 A) - high beam in the right headlight, high beam lamp on the dashboard . Similar to fuse F3 for the right headlight. If the blue lamp on the panel does not light up when you turn on the high beams, check this fuse, as well as the lamp itself and the wiring to it.
Common reasons
There are reasons that do not depend on the type and condition of the steering elements, these include low tire pressure and incorrect wheel alignment, violation of body geometry, etc.
In the first case, due to the large contact patch between the tire and the road, not only tire wear increases, but also the load on the steering wheel increases, which begins to turn tightly. In the second case, incorrect wheel angles also lead to this malfunction. We'll talk about the influence of body geometry later.
You should also pay attention to the steering knuckle bearing, shown below in the Nissan Primera example. Due to the wear of the boot, it rusts, as a result you have to make more effort when turning.
And yet, it is important to understand that if other tires were installed on the car and they are larger and wider than the previous ones, then the steering wheel will be difficult to turn and this is natural, there is no need to panic.
It is also worth paying attention to the crosspieces (universal joints) of the steering column. There may be one or two of them (lower and upper), it all depends on the design. The crosspieces may bite or after installing new ones, the steering wheel will be difficult to rotate for some time.
Be sure to pay attention to the cardan boot, for example, on the Toyota Caldina 2.0 MT 4WD FULL it looks like this.
If it is torn, then replace it, since over time, water and dirt that gets there will lead to bad consequences. The first sign that the problem is in the crosspieces is a tight rotation of the steering wheel with cyclic jerks.
Also, different behavior of the steering wheel is possible as a result of linear expansion of the parts. As a rule, if the tolerances and fits in the parts are selected correctly, and this also applies to the crosspieces, then after they are heated or cooled, no jamming occurs, and the steering wheel turns easily and smoothly.
If these parameters are not maintained correctly, and this no longer applies to original spare parts, then the steering wheel will be difficult to turn, with jamming both when the engine is cold and when it is warm.
Power steering
Most modern cars, for example, Chevrolet Lacetti, Volvo xc90, BMW e39 (not on all models), Renault Simbol, Gazelle GAZ-3302 (not on all models, the latter have an ESD) have been and continue to be installed with power steering. It is malfunctions in its operation that can lead to the fact that you will have to make a lot of effort to drive the car.
Oil level and condition
The first thing you should pay attention to if the steering wheel starts to turn tightly is the presence and condition of oil in the power steering reservoir. Its low level is the most likely cause of the problem. But you need to take into account that the level of heated liquid may differ from cold one.
It is important to find out why this happened:
- natural consumption (you just haven’t looked into the tank for a long time);
- leakage occurred as a result of wear or damage to sealing elements, hoses, etc.
If the oil level in the tank is minimal, then it is better to refuse further operation of the car in this situation, as this may lead to pump failure. As a last resort, you can remove the power steering drive belt and thus try to get there or call a tow truck.
Also pay attention to the condition of the oil, ask yourself - “When did you change it and what kind did you fill in?” There have been cases when simply replacing it solved the problem. But here it is important to fill in the oil prescribed in the operating manual for your particular car model, and not experiment.
Air in the system
Air can get into the booster hydraulic system for various reasons, the main one being improper replacement of the working fluid (oil).
It is clear that the presence of air bubbles in the system will negatively affect the transmission of forces as a result of a decrease in pressure, which will lead to tight rotation of the steering wheel.
To solve this problem, it will be sufficient to turn the steering wheel completely to the right and left several times with the engine running. This will renew all the oil in the expansion tank and squeeze out the air.
Power steering belt tension
Check the condition of the power steering drive belt. If it slips, which is often accompanied by a whistling sound, the pump will not create the required pressure in the system. For this reason, the steering wheel will turn tighter.
An overtightened belt will create an unnecessary load on the drive shaft and, accordingly, on the engine, thereby causing rapid wear of the bearing, reducing the efficiency of the pump and motor.
If the belt is tensioned correctly, but wears out noticeably quickly, then remove it from the pulley and turn it last. It should rotate freely without grinding or jamming. Otherwise, you will have to change the bearing.
The schematic diagram of tensioning the UAZ Patriot power steering belt is shown below.
Thick oil
In winter, if the steering wheel starts to turn hard, pay attention to the condition of the oil in the tank. If it has thickened greatly, it means it is not suitable for the given operating conditions.
Make sure that the fluid has been filled according to the car manufacturer's recommendations. If necessary, replace with another after consulting with specialists.
Steering rack
It is an integral part of the car's steering. It is to facilitate the movement of its elements, as well as steering rods, that power steering, electric power steering and other types of amplifiers were developed. The latter may or may not be installed on the machine.
In the latter case, the car is controlled only due to the driver’s physical impact on the steering wheel with the subsequent conversion of the rotational moment into the translational movement of the steering rods.
This transformation is carried out due to the gear rack, precisely because of the constriction of which it becomes difficult to turn the steering wheel.
The problem is easily solved by loosening the adjusting bolt, which is present on almost all steering racks or steering gears, such as, for example, in the VAZ 2105.
Let's look at specific examples.
VAZ 2105, 2106, 2107
The first thing you need to look at when on a VAZ 2105, 2106, 2107 and other cars from this model range, the steering wheel begins to turn tightly, especially with the front wheels hanging, is the steering gearbox (column).
By external inspection, make sure that there is no oil leakage through the seals in the unit. Check the transmission oil level in the gearbox through the filler (control) plug. Make sure the steering column is adjusted correctly and is not pinched.
The second thing to do is check the condition of the ball joints. There are four of them, two on each side, top and bottom. If they are worn out and there is play in them, then this can also affect the increase in effort to rotate the steering wheel.
Next, check to see if one or both ball joints are jammed. To do this, disconnect the steering tips from the column. This is done so that the steering knuckle can be rotated freely.
If it rotates heavily with a knocking noise, the ball joints are jammed and will have to be replaced.
Next, check the left and right pendulum arms for wedging; to do this, disconnect the steering rods from them and move them by hand. They should walk freely, without grinding. Otherwise, replace them. For example, they can jam due to misalignment of the nylon bushings.
It’s better to immediately replace the pendulums on bushings with an analogue with ball bearings. You will immediately feel how easier the steering wheel begins to turn.
Also check the tie rod ends for play. If new tips were installed, then it will be difficult to drive the car for some time until they develop and become easy to move.
Angle of inclination of the stand (caster).
It would seem that this has something to do with the caster and the tight steering wheel. As a rule, the angle of the strut (positive or negative) is set by the manufacturer, and it does not change during wheel alignment.
But there are situations when on VAZ classics 2101 - 2107 at the service this indicator is changed, for example, from 0 (factory) to 1. This leads to the fact that the steering wheel begins to rotate harder, but at the same time it returns to the zero position faster after completion turn.
If you drive around the city more, then cluster 0 is more preferable, since the steering wheel rotates easier with it, but it does not return to its original position as quickly.
With cluster 1, the opposite happens: the steering wheel turns hard, but returns quickly. This cluster is preferred by drivers who travel more outside the city.
Electric power steering (EGUR)
According to the principle of operation, electric power steering is not much different from conventional power steering. The main difference is that here the power steering pump is driven not by the internal combustion engine, but by an electric motor. The system also includes an electronic control unit.
The pump itself (geared motor) can be of two types: vane and gear. The second type is considered more reliable.
EPS is installed on many foreign cars, for example, Ford Focus 2, Skoda Fabia, Mazda 3. And also on some domestic cars, for example, Lada X-Ray.
Let's look at the reasons why the steering wheel turns tightly, using the Mazda 3 as an example:
- Deformation of the steering rack. The problem is solved only by replacing the latter;
- Low voltage in the on-board network. The battery is dead, the generator is malfunctioning.
- Incorrect steering wheel calibration or the ECU does not see its position at all. The previous and this problem can be easily diagnosed in the service.
- The relay has failed. On Mazda 3 it is located under the hood in the fuse box. But perhaps the relay has not failed, but the contacts under the block itself have rotted - this is a Mazda 3 disease.
- The power steering fuse has failed or the power supply circuit to the electric motor has broken. Sometimes, in order to find an open circuit, you have to remove the entire pump. The problem is diagnosed at the service.
- The steering rack is installed incorrectly after repair or replacement.
- Other causes related to power steering.
Electric power steering
Compared to power steering and electric power steering, the EUR is structurally simpler and therefore more reliable. It consists of an electric motor that is mounted directly on the steering column, a set of sensors and an ECU.
EUR is installed on most modern cars. Let's include domestic models - Lada Priora, Granta, Kalina, Niva (since 2009), the latest Gazelle models (GAZ 3302, 2705, 3221, 33023).
If the steering wheel on a car with electric power steering starts to turn tightly, check:
- Is the EUR indicator on the instrument panel lit? When the ignition is turned on, the lamp should light up and go out after the engine starts.
- Whether the speed sensor and speedometer work, they work synchronously with the power steering and are interconnected. The higher the speed, the less force is transmitted to the steering rack and vice versa;
- Is the torque sensor faulty?
- What is the voltage in the on-board network;
- The contacts of the 50 A power steering fuse have burned out or burned out. For example, on a Lada Priora it is located under the hood, shown in the diagram below.
If the problem persists, check the condition of the steering rack, support bearings, cardans, etc. All this has already been described above.
If your car's steering wheel starts to turn hard and you can't find the reason, ask questions in the comments, we will try to answer.
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SST trailer: model range, owner reviews, where to buy
- Gazelle;
- VAZ 2114;
- Toyota Mark2;
- Hyundai Solaris;
- Renault Logan;
- Ford Focus;
- Nissan Almera;
- Lada Priora;
- VAZ 2110;
- Daewoo Lanos, etc.
To check the steering column, place the car on a pit or a lift. One person will sit behind the steering wheel and turn it, while the other will monitor the steering joint in parallel. If play is noticed during manipulation, repair is needed.
