Reasons why the VAZ 2105 engine injector fails

If you, in the company of your friends, say that your engine is missing, they may misunderstand you or simply look at you with “square” eyes... It’s a different matter if you complain that the engine is missing or your one of the cylinders is working, in which case you will receive a large number of different versions and assumptions taken supposedly from personal experience, as well as advice on what needs to be done in this case. You can, in principle, listen to the advice of friends, there is nothing wrong with that, but I would also recommend listening to the opinions of experts on this matter. In my article today, I will talk about what engine tripping is and where it comes from, you will learn about the causes of this unpleasant phenomenon, as well as ways to eliminate this malfunction. Armed with the information I needed, I decided to visit the mechanics at one popular bus station in our city, in order to find out whether the various “experts” wrote on the forms were true and whether they should be trusted. Simply put, I decided to ask why the engine troubles those who are directly related to this.

Reason one - spark plugs

I wrote in detail about how to determine faults in car systems using spark plugs
here .
I recommend reading it - it turned out to be useful, judging by your reviews, thank you.

We unscrew the spark plugs one at a time and look at their insulator.

If it is covered with dense carbon deposits, then it is difficult for a spark to penetrate it. The current seeks the path with the least resistance, so the spark will not be between the electrodes, but will “go” along the insulator to the side. Its energy will not be enough to set fire to the air-fuel mixture. This cylinder will not work.

We inspect the external condition of the spark plug insulator.

If there are microcracks, then part of the current will not be converted into a discharge, but will escape through these damages. You need to look at the internal insulator, which is screwed into the cylinder head, and at the external one, onto which the armor wire cap is placed.

Large or small gap between electrodes.

Many people have heard or know that for certain engines, ignition systems and types of fuel used, spark plugs with a certain gap are required. Usually its value is indicated by the manufacturer of engines and cars.

How to check the spark without special devices on the engine

This is an old, “grandfather” method, some people are afraid of it:

They unscrewed the spark plug;
They put an armored wire on her;
They leaned it with the inner body, the metal part, against the engine;
Turn on the ignition and turn the starter.

We look at the spark when trying to start the engine. If it hits clearly between the electrodes, is bright, and does not move to the side, then the candle is “live”. Screw it into place. Let's move on to another “subject”.

What to do with black carbon

First of all, let's look at the cause of the rich mixture. It is this that is the source of this deposit on the electrodes. Perhaps it appeared as a result of the “dying” of the spark plug, when the fuel stopped igniting normally. This soot was deposited on the electrodes and insulator.

We try to clean the spark plug with sandpaper. We only clean the electrodes themselves; there is no need to touch the insulator. We install it in place, start it and listen to the engine.

What to do with a large or small gap

Many Zhiguli owners know how to adjust it themselves. To do this, you will need a set of probes of different thicknesses, a hammer or pliers.

Let's find out what interelectrode gap is recommended for your engine. For example, on Zhiguli cars with a contactless ignition system, 0.7-0.8 mm is recommended;
We take the probes, find the appropriate size and put them between the electrodes of the spark plug;
If it climbs freely, gently tap the side electrode with a hammer (not a sledgehammer) or pliers. Sometimes it’s enough to press hard and the electrode will give way. We measure again, if it flies by again with a whistle, we bend it again;
If it doesn’t fit through, bend it over the edge of the side electrode with pliers. It is advisable to do this with a thin screwdriver. We insert it between the electrodes and bend the central one a little.

Malfunctions of the VAZ 2105 generator and their elimination

The generator set ensures uninterrupted operation of the vehicle's electrical equipment while driving and charges the battery by converting mechanical energy into electrical energy. It is important to monitor its condition so that problems do not arise along the way. You can diagnose and fix generator problems yourself, without involving specialists, by following step-by-step instructions.

Design and principle of operation of the generator set

The VAZ 2105 was equipped from the factory with generators G-222 and 37.3701.

They differ from each other in rotor and stator coils and some components. The generator unit is a three-phase alternating current device, the voltage in which arises due to the excitation of the rectifier and magnets

Modern cars are equipped with powerful lighting fixtures, various electrical appliances and other equipment that require large amounts of electricity. Standard generators installed on the VAZ 2105 sometimes cannot cope with such a load. As a more powerful source, you can set the following options to “five”:

generator set 9412.3701–03, installed on VAZ 212114, produces a current of 110A;
generator G-2107–370101, produces a current of 80 A;
The unit is from a VAZ 2110 and can produce a current of 80 A and higher.

Installation of alternative devices requires additional fasteners and minor changes to the electrical circuits.

The generator consists of the following elements:

An armature (rotor) that creates a magnetic field due to the rotation of the coils.
Stator. An alternating current appears in its windings and flows to the diode bridge.
Aluminum housing consisting of two covers. It has specially made holes for heat removal.
The brushes serve to supply voltage to the rotor slip rings. They are mounted in a special brush holder.
Voltage regulator - a relay that does not allow the output voltage to exceed 14.2–14.6 V.
The diode bridge (rectifier) performs the function of converting the alternating current coming from the rotor into direct current. Consists of 6 silicon diodes.
Two bearings on which the stator rotates.

The generator is located in the engine compartment to the right of the power unit. It works thanks to the crankshaft through a belt drive.

Generator diagnostics and causes of malfunctions

Although the VAZ generator is a reliable unit, over time the parts wear out, which leads to interruptions in the operation of the installation. The following signs indicate problems with the generator:

The indicator on the instrument panel does not go out or blinks, indicating that the battery is charging.
Low voltage current is generated.
The electrolyte in the battery boils away.
Extraneous sounds when the generator unit is operating.
The generator set wires are melting.

Diagnostics can be performed in several ways:

Using a multimeter. We set up a voltage measuring device. We take measurements of the incoming voltage. The value should be in the range of 13.8–14.5 V. Next, we check the voltage at the battery contacts, which must correspond to the passport data. Next, we check the armature winding, positive and negative diodes and capacitor.
It is possible to carry out diagnostics at the stand at home if you have the necessary equipment, but most often it is carried out at a car service center.

An oscilloscope. The device allows you to determine the malfunction of the unit based on the signal shape.

In the first diagram, the generator is working, in the second one of the diodes has failed, in the third there is an open circuit in the diode circuit.

If there are problems with the windings, you should change the wires. Most often, a break occurs near the slip rings, so you need to check the soldering at the ends of the winding. To fix the problem, a turn of the winding is unwound, the broken end is removed and the wire is unwound to the slip ring.

If the incoming voltage is too high or low, the cause is a faulty regulator and must be replaced. If the generator unit is working properly and the warning light is on, this indicates a faulty light bulb power diode. The problem is solved by replacing the diode.

If extraneous noise is heard during operation of the generator unit, the reason is wear of the bearings. It is necessary to disassemble the assembly and replace worn parts.

Generator dismantling and repair

Work begins with removing the generator. To do this, you need to prepare the following tools:

set of heads;
a set of keys;
knob;
ratchet;
hammer;
extension.

After a long period of use, the fasteners become stuck, so it is better to lubricate the fastening points with WD-40 before disassembling.

Removing the generator set

Dismantling the unit on a VAZ 2105 is carried out in stages:

We de-energize the car by removing the negative terminal from the battery. We disconnect the wires from the generator unit, having previously remembered how they were connected.

Unscrew the fastening nut on the bracket, loosen the tension on the belt drive and remove the belt.

Having descended under the car, unscrew the lower nut using a ratchet.

Using a hammer, knock out the bolt through a wooden extension and remove it from the assembly.

Now we take the generator to the side and remove it. It is more convenient to do this from below.

We move on to repairing the dismantled unit.

We disassemble and repair the generator

In addition to a set of keys, you need to prepare a Phillips screwdriver and a special puller for bearings.

Why did the engine start to stall? – The most complete analysis of the reasons

What does the term “Engine Troit” mean?

I ask this question at the beginning of the article in order to cut off the “couch experts”, and only real car enthusiasts who love and appreciate their car remain here.

Just one of the commentators began to assert:

“Engine tripping is when there is no one cycle in the operation of an internal combustion engine. That is, out of four cycles of engine operation, one cycle was thrown away.”

Now let's continue the conversation with real car lovers.

Today we will look at the main reasons why the motor may trip. They may seem banal, but read my work to the end carefully, I am sure you will learn something new for yourself.

Let's start with why the engine triples, and not “doubles” or “quadruples”, for example :-)

The fact is that quite recently most engines had four cylinders, probably no one would have believed that there could be six, eight or twelve 30 years ago, but oh well... In general, when one of the four cylinders stopped working, then the workers There were only three cylinders left, and the sound of the engine was seriously changing. This phenomenon is called engine throttling, that is, the engine runs on three cylinders with a characteristic sound. Years passed, the number of cylinders changed, but the term troit remained unchanged.

High voltage wires

The tips and the wires themselves are suspect. Due to harsh operating conditions, they may lose elasticity and dry out. I have witnessed more than once when they were changed, they did not align, lying on the table, they remained the same shape as on the car.

Plus, poor manufacturing quality leads to microcracks appearing on them. The high discharge penetrates them. In such places, a light spot with black dots or soot streaks forms. It is best seen in the dark with the engine running. You can observe sparks at the breakdown sites.

There is another way to check high-voltage wires, it is shown in the video:

Compression reduction

A drop in this parameter may indicate a malfunction with the internal combustion engine or wear of its elements. Over time, valves and pistons burn out, resulting in compression.

Engine compression is directly related to throttle. The cylinder or cylinders stop working. It is noteworthy that you need to proceed to checking the compression at the very last moment, when all other possible causes have already been checked. The fact is that you will have to interfere with the installed engine system, open the engine, and only a qualified mechanic can do this. Any incorrect action can damage the power unit.

The internal elements of the engine may break, for example, if the timing chain breaks. True, this does not happen often, but the problem should not be ruled out. A compression test will help determine the condition of the pistons and rings. For example, if the readings are low during measurement, you need to pour a little oil into the cylinder and then check again. If the compression indicator increases, there is definitely a malfunction in the piston group.

Video: why does the VAZ 2109 trip when cold?

https://youtube.com/watch?v=KiINTYsnrkQ

And finally, let’s say that the most common cause of tripping is spark-producing elements, that is, spark plugs. It is recommended to change them in a timely manner to avoid more complex problems.

Absolutely legal (Article 12.2);
Hides from photo and video recording;
Suitable for all cars;
Works through the cigarette lighter connector;
Does not cause interference to radios and cell phones.

Sometimes there are cases when the engine only starts “cold” or “hot”

In this case, the valves are most often the cause; they may have become misadjusted. Valve adjustments should be carried out every 20 thousand km. The essence of this problem is that most likely the valves have large gaps, but after the engine warms up they become smaller and the engine does not leak. The same applies to “hot” conditions - when the engine is cold, the valves are normal and the engine is running smoothly, but after warming up, the unregulated valve is clamped, as a result, the cylinder stops working and the engine begins to stall.

I will end here, I hope my article was useful to you and you found the reason for the engine tripping. If not, seek help from specialists. If you know other reasons for engine tripping, I’ll be happy to hear them, use the comment form.

VAZ 2107 engine troubles: causes and solutions

The sound of a VAZ 2107 engine revving is difficult to confuse with something. The car begins to make a characteristic intermittent knock, which indicates that only three of the four cylinders are working. The reasons for this, as well as the consequences, can be very different.

Main symptoms of a malfunction

The number of working cylinders decreases, and a decrease in power is immediately felt; the car no longer pulls as well as before. Vibration appears even at idle, and a characteristic trembling can be heard from the engine compartment. You may notice that fuel consumption has increased, and the smell of gasoline can be clearly felt in the exhaust gases.

If measures are not taken in time, a major engine overhaul may be required. And it’s not like changing a carburetor; it requires a lot of money and time. A mixture of gasoline and air is burned in the cylinders. If this does not happen in one of the cylinders, then the fuel accumulates and gradually mixes with the oil, going into the crankcase. Because of this, the viscosity deteriorates significantly, and lubrication ceases to have the desired effect. As a result, the piston and rings wear out to a critical state. In addition, the cylinder walls are erased. The VAZ 2107 engine needs repair.

Causes of cylinder failure

If the VAZ 2107 engine fails, there may be several reasons for this, and in order to find the fault, you need to perform several actions:

find the faulty cylinder;
check the spark plugs;
inspect the wires, injector, injectors, valves;
check air leaks into the carburetor;
check operation hot and cold.

Identifying a failed cylinder is quite simple. When the machine is running, you need to remove the high-voltage wires one by one if a carburetor is installed. At this moment, no current will be supplied to the spark plug and the cylinder will stop working. The injector is simpler in that you don’t need to risk disconnecting the wires; it will be enough to remove the chips responsible for controlling the fuel supply. If nothing changes and the engine continues to operate without changes, the faulty cylinder has been found.

The next step is to check the spark plug. Having unscrewed it, you should carefully inspect it. If there is carbon deposits on it, then because of this the spark will not “break through”. It is a mistake to believe that replacement or simple cleaning will solve the problem. Without finding and eliminating the cause, a new candle will take on the same appearance in a short time.

You need to check for spark. To do this, you need to put a high voltage wire on it and bring the metal end to the engine housing. Next, someone needs to crank the starter several times. If everything is normal, a spark should appear. If it is missing, this may indicate:

wire break or high resistance;
failure of the ignition coil;
malfunction of the electronic control unit;
failure of the crankshaft position sensor;
The belt is offset by several teeth.

If the spark is fine, but the car still does not pull, and you can clearly hear that the engine is shaking, the reasons may be the following:

compression is broken;
defects have arisen or the rings have worn out;
problems with injectors;
abnormal valve operation.

The cause of a non-working cylinder may be an injector or failed injectors. This may be a consequence of driving on low-quality gasoline or using homemade fuel system cleaning devices. Sometimes a breakdown is indicated by the fact that the injector has failed, but this is very rare.

Also, the VAZ 2107 engine malfunctions due to the fact that the injectors simply become clogged and it is enough to clean them. There may be a break in the power or control circuit to the injector, sometimes a short circuit occurs. It is advisable to carry out a diagnosis. Even if it does not reveal any error, this indicates that the reasons are mechanical.

There are frequent cases when the VAZ 2107 engine stalls when cold or hot. The first thing that comes to the specialist’s mind is that the valves need to be adjusted. It is recommended to perform this procedure every 20,000 km.

The term “cold” means that there are large gaps at the valves, and during prolonged operation, even at idle, the metal heats up and expands, and everything returns to normal. “Hot” means the reverse process. Before heating, all elements are within normal limits, but after heating, the valve jams.

If the engine of a VAZ 2107 fails, but the car does not pull, then you need to immediately find the cause and eliminate it. Otherwise, the consequences can be extremely sad and quite costly.

Diagnosis of uneven operation in cold conditions

The main problem in troubleshooting is that the engine can stall for a short time. This moment needs to be caught and the reason found. This is especially true when the car is checked at a car service center. The car needs to be left overnight so that the diagnosticians can look at it when it’s cold. Otherwise, when it’s hot, when the engine is running normally, it will be difficult to find the cause.

Engine mechanics

First of all, you need to measure the compression on a cold engine. The indicator should not differ from the standard value for this type of motor. As a rule, for common naturally aspirated gasoline engines, 12-13 atm is considered the norm. If the indicator differs by 1-2 atm, you should think about a problem in the engine mechanics itself.

If the difference in compression is no more than 1-2 atm, you need to measure the thermal clearances of the valves when manually adjusting the gas distribution mechanism (GRM).

If the design provides for automatic adjustment due to hydraulic compensators, pay attention to the knocking noise from the valve mechanism. If the sound disappears while warming up, remove the hydraulic compensators and check their functionality.

The initial check of the hydraulics is carried out on the engine, with the valve cover removed. Without removing the camshaft, put the cams in the upper position so that there is no pressure on the valve to put pressure on the hydraulic compensator. It shouldn't be pressed. Otherwise, replace or wash.

In case of low compression, check with oil, if the indicator increases, it’s all about the piston group. If there is a slight increase in compression, repair the cylinder head. When oil gets on leaking piston rings, it closes the micron gaps and the pressure increases.

One type of mechanical damage is a broken cylinder head gasket. Depending on where the gasket burns out, coolant will leak out, get into the oil, oil will leak out, or get back into the antifreeze. If it breaks between the cylinders, compression will be lost.

The most expensive problem is a crack in the cylinder head and short block. Difficult to detect and expensive to eliminate. Metal expands and contracts depending on temperature, so the engine can start running when it’s cold.

A problem with engine mechanics is the most common cause of cold stalling.

Injector condition when cold

The second and very significant problem of modern engines is the quality of the fuel that we fill every day at gas stations. The disadvantages are not even the quality of the gasoline itself, but the presence of water and condensate. Moisture enters the filling tanks underground from groundwater, rain and is formed due to condensation. It comes in huge quantities. When the pump takes in gasoline, it captures and pumps it all into our tanks. What to do in such a situation.

It is necessary to constantly carry out preventive maintenance of the fuel system: washing the injectors every 30,000 km and pouring pure alcohol into the tank in the amount of 350-500 grams per 20-30 liters of gasoline.

On a cold engine, a dirty injector does not provide the correct spray and volume of fuel into the combustion chamber. Accordingly, the fuel-air mixture violates its proportions and does not ignite. The injector system cannot cope, as a result the engine begins to stall when starting. As it warms up, the water in the injector nozzle leaves and the engine runs smoothly.

Air leaks

A common type of malfunction when cold. The rubber bands on the injectors and the intake manifold gaskets compress with cold and allow excess air to pass through, which leads to a violation of the stoichiometric composition of the mixture. It is practically impossible to ignite such a mixture, since there is a sharp increase in the volume of oxygen molecules. And, as we know from physics courses, it is very difficult to spark a spark through these molecules.

You need to check the air leaks with a smoke generator. Diagnosticians at car repair shops have them. You can make a homemade device from plastic bottles and cigarettes. There is a lot of information about them on the Internet. You need to check air leaks when the engine is cold.

Basically, leaks occur through the injector seals, which are located in the cylinder head itself, or in the intake manifold. There are old diagnostic methods using a soap solution, but it is very erroneous. But for lack of anything, this is a good help.

The second place in the rating of leaks is the gasket between the intake manifold and the cylinder head. You can also spill liquid in this area and replace the gaskets if air bubbles appear. The smoke generator is an accurate diagnostic tool.

There are times when the collector cracks inside and it is very difficult to find such a crack.

A common place for leaks in the intake system is the adsorber purge circuit. The so-called tank purging. The hoses, the filter itself, and the valve have rubber seals, which over time crack, collapse, soften and allow excess air into the system. To exclude this cause, you can temporarily plug the canister purge system fitting on the intake receiver and observe.

This system is an environmental norm. In this regard, completely removing the hose from the tank is a violation of environmental standards!

Cold ignition system

Here the main secret lies in the coil, the ignition module. The primary circuit and housing play depending on the temperature and begins to spark when cold. There are times when the car does not want to start at all, since at this moment the primary circuit is closed and there is no sparking.

Thermal expansion also occurs at the point of contact between the spark plugs and the end of the high-voltage wire. When the metal expands, the contact expands so much that the spark hits the side of the engine mass without entering the combustion chamber. The fuel-air mixture will not ignite and the engine will stall when started in the morning.

Problems with the electronic control system

One of the most striking examples of a floating fault in a cold situation is a domestically produced VAZ car of the Kalina brand. The control unit is located in the console under the heater hose, from where coolant constantly drips. The whole problem is in the clamp that clamps the heater hose. To tighten it you need to disassemble the entire panel. This is an expensive operation and you will not always immediately find what the problem is. On these vehicles, the ECU must be immediately moved to another location. Even a slight contact of antifreeze on the control unit circuit disables it. The tracks begin to close, the pulses to the coil or injectors disappear. The problem may go away as it warms up.

If the tracks and microcircuits of the electronic control unit are defective or outdated, the engine can stall on any car when cold. Also, minor problems with contacts can appear in the motor harness.

The problem with plastic expansion also exists in control system sensors. This is especially true for resistive elements. This unit includes an absolute pressure sensor in the receiver, which provides a signal for the duration of opening of the gasoline injectors. The fuel mixture is prepared depending on the vacuum reading in the intake manifold. If there is a malfunction in the mechanical part of the sensor, the pressure values will be incorrect and the mixture will be either rich or lean. There will be no ignition in the cylinder and the engine will stall. As it warms up, the sensor's operation is restored and the engine runs smoothly. The contacts in the connector also play an important role.

Fuel system cold

Signs of water in the tank, fuel pump, lines and injectors are especially noticeable in winter when the engine is cold. Drops of water freeze, the engine stalls or does not start. You need to check the fuel pressure when it is cold. The value varies from 3 - 4 ATM depending on the type of motor. If the fuel pressure regulator is located in the tank, then the value is usually 4 atm. At low pressure the engine will stall when cold. After the ice dissolves as it warms up, the pressure in the ramp becomes normal.

As already mentioned, in order not to encounter such a malfunction, you need to do moisture prevention. There are special dehumidifiers and water displacers on the counters. Eg . You can take any, the main thing is that it contains concentrated alcohol. It mixes with water and exits through the exhaust system. It does not cause detonation or affect the mechanical parts of the engine.

Rich mixture

The engine began to stall and stopped developing maximum power. When cold it may start and stall. In this case, the air-fuel mixture is to blame, where there is a lot of fuel and little oxygen.

It floods the spark plugs with gasoline and they refuse to work. From this you can judge the quality of the fuel mixture. If there is black soot, it is rich, if it is light, it is poor.

I wrote about this in detail in other articles, go to the channel, everything is written there, the link was above.

What to do

Look for the reason. There are several possible sources of problems:

Mass air flow sensor
. It fails and the ECU receives incorrect readings for preparing the mixture. I wrote how to check it here.
The second lambda was covered with a “copper basin”
. There is also a separate article about it.
In the case of a carburetor, a high level in the float chamber
.

High voltage wires

There is another way to check high-voltage wires, it is shown in the video:

Other reasons

Generator malfunction

Voltage surges during engine operation can cause unstable operation of the ignition coils, fuel pump, and so on. This can be observed at night, when the headlights are on - they may flicker.

On the other hand, if the battery is in good working order, then it should compensate for these surges. Headlights can dim if the engine is unstable at idle speed.
And this may be a consequence of the power unit tripping - its uneven operation.

Air leak

If there is “unaccounted” air in the air-fuel mixture, it is a lean mixture. The fuel burns poorly and the engine misfires. The air that enters the intake manifold after the mass air flow sensor is considered unaccounted for. That is, the electronic control unit does not see it, and therefore does not take it into account when preparing the fuel mixture.

Reasons for tripling

Strong engine vibrations are the first symptom of tripping. At the same time, misfires, exhaust problems and other symptoms may occur. Troubleshooting can be permanent or appear occasionally; it can appear during heavy engine loads or during different temperature conditions.

Engine failure during tripping is distinguished primarily by the fact that the combustion process of fuel assemblies in the cylinders is disrupted. Accordingly, this is accompanied by strong vibrations. However, it is fundamentally wrong to consider the appearance of increased vibrations as the only sign of tripling, since there are a number of reasons when the same thing happens.

Trouble engine injector causes

The main problems that contribute to tripling include the following.

Excessive air in the system.
Rich FA.
Problems with the ignition system.
Wear of engine elements, which is accompanied by a drop in compression.

Thus, the power unit begins to triple as a result of either a mismatch in the composition of the fuel assembly, or untimely ignition of the mixture, or the inability to ignite the fuel. Other types of violations are also possible.

To determine the specific cause of tripling, you need to narrow the search, thereby leaving the only correct reason.

They usually start with the fuel system. The air supply is then analyzed. In some cases, this is caused by the failure of certain sensors.
Ignition failure is an equally common cause of power unit tripping. Added to this is a weak spark from the spark plugs. It is recommended to always check the latter as soon as tripping or other ignition-related problems occur. The candles are simply unscrewed and inspected for defects, their color is analyzed, etc. For example, if the insulator of a candle is damaged, then smoke is clearly visible in this place.
Armor wiring testing. If the engine shakes occasionally in wet weather, this is generally an additional symptom that shows tripping due to wires. The signs go away as soon as the engine warms up and reaches its operating temperature. It is recommended to pay special attention to rubber insulators, which tend to dry out and crack over time.

Attention. Rubber caps for armored wiring often deteriorate after repair work. It can be difficult to visually determine a breakdown until the cap is removed.

Reason one - spark plugs

I wrote in detail about how to determine faults in car systems using spark plugs
here .
I recommend reading it - it turned out to be useful, judging by your reviews, thank you.

We unscrew the spark plugs one at a time and look at their insulator.

We inspect the external condition of the spark plug insulator.

Large or small gap between electrodes.

How to check the spark without special devices on the engine

This is an old, “grandfather” method, some people are afraid of it:

They unscrewed the spark plug;
They put an armored wire on her;
They leaned it with the inner body, the metal part, against the engine;
Turn on the ignition and turn the starter.

What to do with black carbon

We try to clean the spark plug with sandpaper. We only clean the electrodes themselves; there is no need to touch the insulator. We install it in place, start it and listen to the engine.

What to do with a large or small gap

Many Zhiguli owners know how to adjust it themselves. To do this, you will need a set of probes of different thicknesses, a hammer or pliers.

Let's find out what interelectrode gap is recommended for your engine. For example, on Zhiguli cars with a contactless ignition system, 0.7-0.8 mm is recommended;
We take the probes, find the appropriate size and put them between the electrodes of the spark plug;
If it climbs freely, gently tap the side electrode with a hammer (not a sledgehammer) or pliers. Sometimes it’s enough to press hard and the electrode will give way. We measure again, if it flies by again with a whistle, we bend it again;
If it doesn’t fit through, bend it over the edge of the side electrode with pliers. It is advisable to do this with a thin screwdriver. We insert it between the electrodes and bend the central one a little.

Idle cylinder detection

When an injection or carburetor car misfires on a cold engine, identifying an inoperative cylinder can help eliminate the problem. Without special equipment, the easiest way to understand which cylinder is not working is to disconnect the high-voltage wires from the spark plugs one by one while the engine is running. If the cylinder is working properly, then when the wire is disconnected, the sound of the motor will change slightly. The sound of an engine running with an inactive cylinder will not change when the explosive wire is disconnected from the spark plug.

On a diesel engine, an inoperative cylinder is determined in a different way. The check must be done on a cooled engine! To do this, start the engine, and then feel the exhaust manifold pipes with your hand one by one. On working cylinders they will gradually heat up, on idle ones they will be noticeably cooler.

Why does the VAZ 2107 Engine Troit Carburetor

Why does the VAZ-2107 engine carburetor fail and what are the prerequisites?

As the number of working cylinders in the car has decreased, you can feel that the vehicle has become less massive. Even at idle, there is significant vibration, while a shudder can be heard in the engine department. Apart from everything else, it is easy to see that gasoline consumption has increased significantly, and when you bring your nose to the exhaust gases, you can hear the smell of fuel.

If you do not pay attention to such a problem, the engine may eventually require a complete overhaul. This action will entail a waste of not only time, but also significant money.

Installing a DAAZ 21073 (Solex) carburetor on a VAZ 2109

You know... I first set the Solex 83 to five, drove it... it pulls a bit weakly. then at the disassembly I took a seven-size Solex, I also washed it, went through it, found a joint, laughed hard and long and in the end made a classic one out of the eight-size one... the difference is in the current in the air and fuel jets and so everything else is the same.

Dim, you're wrong... The VAZ 2107 was equipped with original carbs - DAAZ (Ozone). The chisels already have 083 Solexes. There are many differences, except for the sizes of the jets. For example, on a DAAZ, the shutter of the second chamber is opened by a vacuum, i.e. engine speed, on Solexes this damper is opened by a gas pedal cable... That is. on DAAZ, when you press the gas pedal to the floor from the start, only the first chamber is open, but on Solex both are open. This is if from the obvious... the XX mechanism and transient modes are implemented a little differently there...

And so Solexes all often get clogged. At the end of the day, you can bring Ozon’s current to mind

Can you be more detailed?

After installing the Solex, your car's dynamics will improve, and your fuel consumption will most likely decrease slightly, BUT! Solexes have several weak points: VERY!!! They are afraid of all kinds of dirt and often get clogged. They are easy to clean, just unscrew the top cover and blow from the compressor (for example, at a tire shop) into the jets. This does not change the settings. The second weak point is, as a rule, the floating speed of XX... not much, if you correctly set it to 800 rpm, then the speed can float from 750 to 850... Not so critical.

There are a lot of small settings. setting floats, their limits of rise and fall and geometry, setting pumps, idle speed, mixture quality. And then bam, I refueled at another gas station and the carb got clogged or something else and doesn’t work that way anymore. It's like a little child))

Here you are also a little wrong. The floats should not be touched and should be set according to the book in any case. Deviation of their level leads to unstable operation of the entire carb. It’s not possible to tune the pumps (apparently you’re talking about accelerator pumps) at all, just replacing the cam of this pump and the spray nozzle (with a larger diameter) - but this will result in more fun during traffic light races, but will increase fuel consumption. essential. Solex adjustments are 2 screws. One screw is the quality of the mixture, the second screw is the quantity of the mixture. And then these settings are valid only for XX, because during acceleration the accelerator pump works, and then mixture formation occurs in the diffusers. You can, of course, bore out the diffusers, drill out all the channels, replace the jets with larger ones, and perform long and tedious magic with the floats, BUT! A LOT of money and time will be spent, fuel consumption will increase noticeably, the stability of the engine will decrease (which may lead to a decrease in its service life) and the fun won’t be increased by as much... It’s easier then to gather your courage and replace the engine with a larger one... and most likely an injection one. In terms of money it will be a little more expensive, but much simpler and will give a much more tangible effect.

Reason one - spark plugs

I wrote in detail about how to determine faults in car systems using spark plugs
here .
I recommend reading it - it turned out to be useful, judging by your reviews, thank you.

We unscrew the spark plugs one at a time and look at their insulator.

We inspect the external condition of the spark plug insulator.

Large or small gap between electrodes.

How to check the spark without special devices on the engine

This is an old, “grandfather” method, some people are afraid of it:

They unscrewed the spark plug;
They put an armored wire on her;
They leaned it with the inner body, the metal part, against the engine;
Turn on the ignition and turn the starter.

What to do with black carbon

We try to clean the spark plug with sandpaper. We only clean the electrodes themselves; there is no need to touch the insulator. We install it in place, start it and listen to the engine.

What to do with a large or small gap

Many Zhiguli owners know how to adjust it themselves. To do this, you will need a set of probes of different thicknesses, a hammer or pliers.

Let's find out what interelectrode gap is recommended for your engine. For example, on Zhiguli cars with a contactless ignition system, 0.7-0.8 mm is recommended;
We take the probes, find the appropriate size and put them between the electrodes of the spark plug;
If it climbs freely, gently tap the side electrode with a hammer (not a sledgehammer) or pliers. Sometimes it’s enough to press hard and the electrode will give way. We measure again, if it flies by again with a whistle, we bend it again;
If it doesn’t fit through, bend it over the edge of the side electrode with pliers. It is advisable to do this with a thin screwdriver. We insert it between the electrodes and bend the central one a little.

Loss of power 2105

The well-known term “loss of engine power” includes many reasons and also a description of these reasons all over the Internet - wear of pistons with rings, lack of clearance in the contacts of the distributor (distributor), incorrect adjustment of valves and ignition timing.
But these reasons lead to a loss of power gradually: first, the engine begins to start worse, the car goes up the usual hill in a low gear, etc. An instant loss of power can occur when the carburetor jets become clogged. But the incident that occurred with the loss of power of my five (2105) showed that there may be another reason that the service station could not determine. How it was. In the evening I put the car in the garage in “full health”, in the morning it started up well, but when I started driving, something called “loss of power” occurred. In first gear the car started moving, and then the engine did not gain speed and even stalled. What immediately came to mind? Of course, the jets in the carburetor were clogged. I quickly removed the top cover of the carburetor, unscrewed the jets, blew them out, put them back in place, washed my hands and got ready to go, but nothing happened! I performed the operation with the carburetor again: again nothing! In short, this “no way” lasted about 5 hours. When I got tired of all this, I started the engine and somehow drove to the service station in first gear, fortunately it was almost nearby.

When I arrived at the service station, the expert guys tried all the methods to eliminate the cause of the engine’s whim. They forced me to go (by public transport) to a car store to buy new spark plugs, new distributor contacts and something else, I don’t remember. They put all this on the engine: I would drive out, switch from first to second, then to third, and that’s it! The engine did not develop any further power. Considering the fact that the day was already coming to an end, I gave up on everything, parked the car in the garage and went to drink beer.

I didn't sleep well at night. Car enthusiasts will understand me: the riddle came to me almost in a dream. And, of course, in the morning again to the garage. I lift the hood, look at the engine and it dawns on me! For some reason I remembered one thing that I read somewhere in the literature on cars, namely that the timing belt, when loosened, can jump one or two marks. When I removed the belt guard, I almost cried. Indeed, the belt did jump, and anyone who understands even a little what this means will understand me.

What happened next? Everything is like in a fairy tale: the malfunction that they tried to fix all day yesterday was fixed in 5 minutes. The proverb is truly true: “The morning is wiser than the evening.” So, dear VAZ 2105 owners, take note of this case that I suffered through.

For myself, I concluded:

If your car has a timing belt drive, you need to periodically check the condition of the belt.

Checking the distributor

And then we will check the VAZ 2106 distributor. The first thing you need to pay attention to is its cover. We remove it and inspect it for damage, cracks, etc. Through cracks, along the path of least resistance, current can flow to ground

Thus, a small voltage will already come to the spark plug or nothing at all will come, and the spark will either be weak or not exist at all

Through cracks, along the path of least resistance, current can flow to ground. Thus, a small voltage will already come to the spark plug or nothing at all will come, and the spark will either be weak or not exist at all.

Next we will talk about the remaining parts of the distributor. And they need to be considered in the event that you do not have a spark at all, or if you have one, but it is very weak. Those. if there is no spark in only one cylinder, then there is a 99% chance that the problem is not in the distributor.

After the lid, we immediately pay attention to the slider. The runner must also be intact and not have any damage. Moreover, you need to inspect it both from above and from below.

And the best way to do this is to unscrew it

Moreover, you need to inspect it both from above and from below. And the best way to do this is to unscrew it.

Next we move on to the breaker contacts. First you need to check the cleanliness of the contacts. If there is any plaque or carbon deposits, it naturally needs to be removed. It would probably be better to do this with zero sandpaper or a needle file. Next, after cleaning, you need to check the gap between the contacts. It should be 0.35-0.45mm

We take a set of probes, find a 0.35 probe and check... We also pay attention to the cams that move the contacts - they should not have significant wear and the existing wear should be the same for all cams

Next you need to pay attention to the wire that is connected to the breaker contacts. It is advisable to move it, tug it in different directions, and make sure that the wire has reliable contact. It may happen that over time, due to vibration and other things, this wire breaks off and, naturally, the contact will either be very weak or disappear altogether

And this is not often paid attention to

It may happen that over time, due to vibration and other things, this wire breaks off and, naturally, the contact will either be very weak or disappear altogether

And this is not often paid attention to

The next logical step is to check the capacitor. The simplest thing is to measure its capacity. It should be within 0.25 µF. But for this, of course, you will need a tester with a capacitance measurement mode. I don’t have this, so I’ll tell you about the second method. We disconnect the capacitor wire and the wire coming from the coil from the distributor breaker and connect a light bulb (12V) between them. Afterwards, turn on the ignition and look at the light bulb - if it is on, it means the capacitor is broken and needs to be replaced. If it doesn’t light up, then everything is fine with the capacitor.

In the same way you can do without a light bulb. Instead of connecting the light bulb, we simply short-circuit the wires with each other, with the ignition on, of course. If it sparks, the capacitor is broken.

Ignition

The car is tripping the injector because of the module
. The ignition module is a unit that comes into question after all the checks have been carried out. It is the bobbin that can become the culprit for the power unit tripping at idle or in other modes. To check the coil you need to do this:

Unscrew the spark plug, then apply it to the ground (any part of the body).

If the spark is good, its color is of high quality, and a characteristic crackling sound is heard, then the serviceability of the reel is not questioned. On the contrary, if there is no spark, or it is of poor quality, the module must be replaced, and thus it will be possible to “cure” the tripping.

The phenomenon of tripping in diesel engines

For diesel engines, the problem associated with tripping in cold mode is known firsthand, although in their case the range of possible causes is somewhat narrower.

These are probably all the most common problems. However, we cannot exclude the possibility of problems with valve clearances, as well as timing marks and fuel injection pumps not set properly.

However, before you start checking and replacing everything, it is recommended to remember that “blind diagnostics” is not advisable for modern engines, since there are too many symptoms that are very similar to each other, typical for different malfunctions. In addition, a total replacement of everything that someone advises you may not bring the desired result. For this reason, it is best, if possible, to carry out computer diagnostics of the engine and, based on the results obtained, draw conclusions regarding the search for the causes of the malfunction.

Source

Timing marks

If the camshafts are incorrectly aligned relative to the crankshaft

– the reason for the engine tripping. The opening and closing timing of the intake and exhaust valves will not coincide with the engine strokes.

For example, at TDC of the piston the valve may be closed, so a flash will occur not only in the cylinder, but in the intake or exhaust manifold, depending on which valve is not closed.

This may occur due to a stretched timing drive.

. As the chain or belt is used, it stretches. Therefore, the opening or closing angles may shift. This leads to engine tripping.