Why does the engine get hot from the inside?
The consequences of external engine overheating are not as serious as internal ones, since the temperature sensor on the dashboard will definitely report the problem. You saw that the arrow crossed the acceptable mark and took action. With overheating from the inside, everything is much more complicated; most often it leads to serious problems.
During vehicle operation, sediment accumulates in certain engine parts, resulting from the use of low-quality fuel or oil. For this reason, the engine is usually overhauled and cleaned after a certain mileage. The sediment collects mainly in the cylinder head. If the engine is not cleaned in time, the sediment will form a seal with poor thermal conductivity. In this case, the antifreeze circulation circuits are blocked, the coolant loses its effectiveness, and the thermostat fails. As a result, the engine heats up, although you don’t notice it.
Circuits blocked by sediment increase the likelihood of cooling coating cavitation. Cavitation is the process of damage to the metal shell of the engine, which most often becomes the cause of its detonation. Often mechanics may confuse cavitation with corrosion, but they are not the same thing.
The fundamental factor in internal engine overheating is burning out of the compartments in the cylinder block. In this case, a dense layer of deposits forms in the compartments, which creates the effect of thermal insulation. Typically, such problems arise in domestic cars with high mileage, that is, the engine begins to eat up more oil. As a result, the motor consumes only some of the resulting lubricant, and the rest forms seals. As the mileage increases, the engine overheats more and more, and the car owner does not even notice this, since the temperature indicator on the instrument panel is within the normal range.
One of the most destructive factors contributing to engine overheating is the regular use of additives. They often cause the formation of a dense metal-ceramic layer on the surface of the pistons. This coating has extremely low thermal conductivity. The presence of this factor alone already guarantees engine detonation.
Recommendations for motor maintenance
It's better to prevent problems in advance
So, Lada Kalina requires competent and timely maintenance of the engine cooling system. It is necessary to constantly monitor the functioning of the belt drive, thermostat, ventilation cooling system, radiator, and also fill in a sufficient amount of antifreeze. In summer, it is better not to use low-quality gasoline, especially on long trips. In urban environments, you need to take into account the density of traffic on the streets and the level of air temperature.
When choosing antifreeze, you must remember that you cannot mix coolant from 2 different manufacturers. This is fraught with rapid wear of elements in the cooling system with further destruction of its parts. To prevent this situation, you need to choose the right brand of antifreeze. But first of all, you will need to determine what kind of coolant is used in your Kalina.
Reasons for engine heating
Cooling system assembly
Quite often you can come across the concept of engine overheating on the Lada Kalina. There are quite a few reasons and they are worth knowing if you want to carry out the repair yourself without resorting to the help of a car service.
The main reason why overheating occurs (4th error on the instrument panel) is a malfunction in the engine cooling system, as well as, in rare cases, accumulated errors in the engine control unit. So, let's look at the main reasons for overheating of the main power unit of the Lada Kalina:
- Clogged engine cooling radiator and cooling lines.
Diagram of the working thermostat. If there is a malfunction, it jams into a small circle, causing the car to become very hot.
Coolant sensor locations
Cleaning the cooling radiator from debris
All these elements are part of the cooling system, which can fail.
Heats up at idle
At idle, the engine gets hot, most likely due to a faulty thermostat or a clogged radiator. Therefore, the reason must be sought here. First, you need to replace the thermostat. This operation is carried out quite easily:
- Drain the coolant through the radiator drain plug.
The drain plug in the radiator is located at the bottom right
Thermostat disassembly diagram
Attention! The new thermostat comes with a gasket that must be installed. For normal manufacturers of spare parts, it is included with the part, so it is worth checking its presence in the box.
- We carry out the assembly in the reverse order.
- Fill in coolant.
Important! When replacing a thermostat, it is recommended to pour completely new fluid into the system, since the wedge of this element can be caused not only by wear of the part, but also by the loss of the physical and chemical properties of the coolant.
Pour coolant into the system through the expansion tank
We warm up the car to operating temperature and test whether the problem is resolved. If not, then you need to remove the cooling radiator, wash it and blow it out. Also, heating can be caused by insufficient liquid, so it’s worth looking to see if a pipe has burst somewhere or if liquid is leaking from the system.
Operating temperature of 8-valve
The normal operating temperature for eight-valve engines on Kalinas and Grants is exactly 90 ºC . But owners complain that sometimes it has difficulty reaching 80 degrees even in warm weather. The reason lies in the thermostat - it opens fully at a temperature of 85 degrees. Moreover, the permissible deviation from this value is very large - ( 85±8.3 ) ºС.
In other words, the run-up is 77..93ºС .
But the fuel mixture can only ignite normally if the engine temperature is about 90 degrees . This is the value stored in the electronic control unit. If the temperature is too low, the mixture becomes richer (the amount of gasoline increases). This is the main problem that occurs when the temperature drops. And in winter the heater works worse.
Your case
Temperature diagram . Normal operating temperature is at 90 on the instrument panel.
In your case, the thermostat is most likely stuck, usually stuck in the middle. In this case, either repairing or replacing the thermostat will help.
A stuck thermostat valve is a typical malfunction of the engine cooling system.
That is, the liquid that has not yet been heated is supplied to the cooling radiator and blown by a strong wind flow. Indeed, with an increase in air temperature, the problem will partly go away. That’s why they used to put cardboard on it and drive like that for years. But we don't recommend doing this.
Solution
The problem of low temperature of the engine cooling system can be eliminated by installing a thermostat that opens at 92ºС . The WAHLER 3091.92D element performs excellently .
Original packaging of Wahler 3091.92d thermostat.
The element itself - the opening temperature is stamped on the body.
You just have to disassemble it and transfer the inside to Kalina’s original thermostat.
We saw off the plate, bend the body and take out the thermoelement.
We sharpen the spring so that the pressure point becomes flatter.
For comparison, thermoelements Wahler 3091.92d and the original one.
There is a downside: in summer the temperature will be higher, and there is a risk of boiling in a traffic jam. To be more precise, this risk is higher when installing a thermostat with a late opening time!
Be sure to use new gaskets and lubricate them with a small amount of sealant - this will prevent coolant leaks.
Which thermostats to choose for VAZ (Lada) Kalina?
Last month, PartReview users preferred WEEN. 29% of positive votes belong to this manufacturer.
LUZAR thermostats took second place – 14%.
Gates closes the top three with 4% of the votes.
In the general rating of thermostats, which takes into account the opinions of owners of different brands and models of cars, these brands occupy the following positions:
- WEEN received 1st place, PR score – 91. Data from 36 reviews and 111 votes are taken into account.
- LUZAR took 7th place, with a PR score of 66. Based on 36 reviews and 186 votes.
- Gates is ranked 9th with a PR score of 53, based on 24 reviews and 73 votes.
Causes of external overheating of the Kalina engine
Engine overheating can be caused by extremely low circulation of cold air inside the radiator. Most often this is due to the power supply to the ventilation system. In particular, the sensor that controls the speed of rotation of the blades fails. In this case, you need to check the degree of tension of the belt that connects the ventilation sensor and the crankshaft. If everything is in order with the belt drive, you need to pay attention to the level of contamination of the radiator and, if necessary, clean the unit. The above actions will be useless only if the radiator has completely outlived its useful life. In this case, the unit will need to be replaced with a new one.
Overheating can occur as a result of warping of the engine head seal or cylinder block lining. Other reasons: overheating or damage to the unit. If you do not contact a service station in time, there is a possibility of engine water hammer or crankshaft destruction.
The motor may overheat if the temperature sensor is faulty. Over time, sediment builds up in every cooling system, preventing the thermostat sensor from moving freely. Eventually it stops responding to the temperature level of the antifreeze inside the engine. In this case, the thermostat will circulate antifreeze through a small circuit, thereby reducing the cooling efficiency of the engine. This may not have any effect on the engine in the cold season, but in warmer weather the engine will overheat.
Another reason why the engine heats up may be excessive valve burnout. The fact is that the operation of the internal combustion engine is based on the principle of cyclical combustion of fuel, which passes processed gases through the hole in the exhaust valve. These gases have an elevated temperature, which affects the overall heating of the engine of domestic cars.
The Lada Kalina engine heats up very quickly when it is overloaded in certain situations. For example, a car is used as a means of towing another vehicle or trailer. In addition, during the warm season, many people go on vacation to mountainous areas. At high temperatures, lifting the vehicle will require increased torque, which is achieved at low speed. As a result, the cooling system reduces its efficiency and the engine overheats.
Instructions for controlling a heater with air conditioning and the principle of its operation in Kalina
Viburnums with air conditioning (climate system) differ from a conventional stove in the following elements: a button to turn on the air conditioner appears (number 3 in the figure), its own temperature regulator with drawn values is installed (number 5, a special difference from a conventional stove regulator in reverse adjustment, that is Where it is hot at the regulator of a conventional stove, it is cold at the regulator with air conditioners). Also, in cars with air conditioning, an additional interior temperature sensor is installed in the interior lighting.
First, we will name all the air conditioner control elements, and then we will describe what each one does and the operating principle itself:
- Fan speed control.
- Air intake regulator, recirculation.
- Air conditioning button.
- Air flow direction regulator.
- Exhaust air flow temperature regulator.
Fan speed controller
This regulator has 5 positions: Off, 3 flow speeds and maximum speed. I put the maximum speed in a separate paragraph, since this speed works without a resistor and works even if it burns out. When the regulator is positioned in zone 0, all electrical elements of the system are turned off.
Recirculation, air intake regulator
This regulator is responsible for where new air will come from, either from the street or from your cabin. It has 2 positions: street and interior, although you can also set the central position (partially taken from the street and partially from the interior). It is not advisable to turn on recirculation from the cabin for a long time, since fresh air will not flow into the cabin and the condition of the people in the car may worsen.
Air conditioning button
This button starts the air conditioning compressor itself and the interior radiator of the air conditioner begins to cool; it only works when the fan speed is turned on. Until 2011, the air conditioning indicator was not connected, although it was provided for in the design.
Airflow direction control
With this regulator you can set where the cooled or heated air flows will come out. Basic 4 positions: windshield only, center ducts only, feet only, feet and windshield. For faster cooling or heating of the interior, I advise you to use the position of the central air ducts, and otherwise use the position: legs and windshield. This is especially necessary when the air conditioner is operating in cooling mode, so that you do not get blown out.
Engine control system sensors
Here we will talk about three VAZ engines: 21116, 21126 and 21127. The first of them is 8-valve, and all of them are standardly installed in cars of the following families: “Kalina-2”, “Granta”, “Priora”. The Kalina uses an electronic gas pedal, which means that the throttle unit here is controlled by an electric drive. The design of the sensor that registers the throttle position has also changed with the transition to the new generation. These and other features related to the design of motors are discussed further.
- All engine sensors 21116, 21126, 21127
- Troubleshooting
- Connection diagram of sensors to the ECU
Checking the electrical circuit
Malfunctions in the cooling circuit system are not always associated with faulty sensors; in 70% of cases, the problem is a violation of the integrity of the wires. On Kalina, the block often suffers; the thin plastic at the entrance to the block rots and cracks. After disconnecting the pads from the sensors, the throughput of the circuits is always checked before dismantling the latter.
- The ignition is turned off and the block is removed from the sensor.
- The tester probe (multimeter) is connected to output “B” of the block, the second tester probe is located at ground.
- The ignition turns on.
- The monitor should display a voltage in the range of 4.8–5.2 V. These are indicators of the complete circuit.
- Similarly, the performance of the circuit is checked by resistance. The tester probe is connected to terminal “A” on the block, the second one is connected to the ground of the car. The operating circuit will show a resistance of less than 1 ohm.
If the voltage does not correspond to the operating voltage, then the circuit is checked for an open circuit. The tester probe is connected to terminal “B” on the block and terminal “39” on the controller; if the voltage is normal, then there is a malfunction in the control unit.
The cooling circuit of the Lada Kalina engine is equipped with two temperature sensors, the correct operation of which determines the performance of the engine and its service life. You can diagnose and replace the control elements yourself; it will take about an hour of time and a little skill.
Heat
If the engine temperature is too high, then you need to look for the cause of the breakdown. May work poorly:
Driving with an engine that is constantly heating up is even more dangerous than driving with an engine that is not warm enough. Therefore, all causes of overheating must be eliminated in a timely manner.
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I am the editor-in-chief of the site. In our editorial office: Hyundai Accent, Hyundai Solaris, Hyundai Santa FE (turbo-diesel 2015). I now have a Lada Kalina LUX (98 horses). A car fanatic, he has owned both left and right hand drive cars. Robots, CVTs, mechanics. The only thing missing was DSG. But it will be soon.
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Replacing coolant temperature sensors on Kalina
Welcome! Coolant temperature sensors - if we talk specifically about the Lada Kalina car, then there are only two sensor data in it, one goes to the controller (This is the brain, to put it simply), and the other to the device, that is, one sensor shows what the temperature of the coolant in the car is and displays this is all for the device, and another one (which gives readings to the controller) turns on the cooling system fan when the car is boiling, and also regulates the fuel-air mixture (Simply put, when the car is cold, thanks to this sensor it will warm up faster, because the sensor richens the mixture and the temperature immediately rises), both of these sensors are important and if they fail they will cause quite a lot of trouble, especially for the sensor that gives readings to the device, if it stops working, then you simply will not know the temperature of the coolant and in connection with which you can overheat the engine.
Note! To replace both sensors (you will most likely only replace one), stock up on: Wrenches, as well as sockets and a wrench for them, you will also need a multi-meter (This is in case you want to check the functionality of the old sensor ) and a screwdriver!
- Replacing coolant temperature sensors
- Additional video clip
Where are the coolant temperature sensors located? We would like to immediately note one very important fact, just below we have posted a photo in which we have already indicated with arrows the location of both sensors, but the photo shows a VAZ 2110 car, and you have a Lada Kalina, in general there is not much difference in the engines and these sensors are also on them are located practically in the same places, we just wanted to warn you so that you are not too surprised when you look at your engine, because they may differ slightly, but in general, as already said, they are almost the same, in general the sensor that measures coolant temperature and gives it to the controller, screwed into the thermostat and indicated by a red arrow, the second sensor that gives readings to the device is already indicated by a green arrow, but since it is not visible in the photo, we also indicated with a blue arrow the wire that is connected to this sensor .
When should coolant temperature sensors be replaced? The sensors themselves should last quite a long time, but they don’t always come across high-quality ones, and even literally after a month new sensors already fail, it’s not difficult to understand this, especially if it’s a sensor that goes to the device (the gauge will immediately stop showing the coolant temperature, the arrow will just will lie, for clarity this indicator is indicated by an arrow), but with the sensor that goes to the controller it’s a little more complicated and you won’t even immediately understand that it’s time to change it, well, let’s move on to the symptoms, firstly, if the sensor going to the controller comes in unusable, then the car will consume more gasoline (This is due to the fact that the mixture will always be rich) and the cooling fan will not work when the engine overheats, if you notice all this in your car, then immediately change the sensor to a new one or simply remove the old one and check it (we explained in this article a little lower how both sensors are checked, so read it and you will understand everything as you read).
