Repair of the rear glass of the strut of a VAZ 2110

To watch online, click on the video ⤵

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cccr 04 Mar 2012

Attached images

Repair of the front glass of a VAZ 2110

I would like to cut off the front glass, rotten place

Guys, I certainly understand that the task is to melt this bucket, but still a splash guard with a glass costs a penny, a maximum of two mowers. You could think about others a little. Nothing personal.

2 thousand is not a penny for the owner

Well, why not? So far it seems... And then let the client think for himself, or let the new owner think)))

@garage tv chistopol. And there was no thought to criticize your work, as they say “in war, all means are fair”

The car drives, nothing has fallen off

For 10 glasses this is an eternal problem

no, that's fucked up. Even for basins. It’s clear that there is no money, but you can’t do the same. Moreover, in appearance, one cannot say that he is somehow shaggy, he looks quite decent. Is it really impossible to find money for a good repair, because such repairs are not done once a year or even every 3 years; with normal anticorrosive protection, the car takes a very long time every year. It’s just a pity for the car (. The rear glasses are simply rotten (due to the fact that the previous owner put a dick on it and covered everything with lockers, although it looks gorgeous). Therefore, the rear lockers are evil, and if they are on self-tapping screws, then they are double evil)

Cooked well. Seam processing is a complete mess. Welding seams must be primed after cleaning and then oiled. Mastic will have no effect on bare metal.

We repair a torn glass of a VAZ 2110 car. One of the common problems of cars of the 10 family is that over time the glass corrodes and any hole can cause it to come off the body, requiring immediate repair. In principle, the work is not difficult, but the engine had to be removed for direct access, and already during the main work, other problems related to the rotten body were discovered.

VAZ 2110 problem with glass

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Ivan

Honored Writer

Gender: Registered: 03.23.2005 Messages: 2605 From: Chelyabinsk

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yura

Gunsmith

Gender: Registered: 04/18/2006 Messages: 43678 From: Russia

what kind of glass is this? _________________ To be continued…

tip

Laboratory assistant

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Andrew_vv

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Gender: Registered: 08/11/2005 Messages: 41557 From: US State Department

yura

Gunsmith

Gender: Registered: 04/18/2006 Messages: 43678 From: Russia

yah! the wheel would have gone to the side, it's probably not about this glass _________________ To be continued...

Withdrawal procedure

1. Remove the telescopic stand.

2. Clamp the stand in a vice. We compress the spring with special ties. Unscrew the shock absorber rod nut, holding the rod from turning.

3. Remove the upper support of the rack.

4. Remove the upper spring bowl.

5. Remove the spring.

6. Remove the protective casing with the compression stroke buffer.

7. Inspect the rack. If deformation, cracks or damage are visible on the strut body, swing arm, bracket or lower spring cup, the strut must be replaced. Welding work on the rack can permanently damage it.

8. Place the strut vertically and swing the shock absorber rod several times. At the same time, make sure that the rod moves smoothly. If it moves with dips, jamming and knocking, then the rack needs to be replaced. The strut should also be replaced if it shows signs of fluid leakage or if the threads at the top of the stem are damaged.

9. Shock absorbers with a non-separable body (cartridge) can also be installed on the machine. To replace the cartridge, knock down the compression buffer support, unscrew the nut of the strut housing, remove the cartridge and put a new one in its place. When replacing a conventional hydraulic shock absorber with a cartridge, you need to remove the rod with the working cylinder from the housing and drain the liquid. Install the cartridge into the housing according to the manufacturer's instructions.

10 If the compression stroke buffer and protective cover are damaged, replace them.

11. If the bearing has axial movement in the support housing, there are signs of lubricant leakage, the bearing is seized when turning and corrosion, replace it. If there are cracks in the upper support housing, replace it. Studs with damaged threads must also be replaced.

12.If the spring has cracks or deformations, replace it. Check the spring settlement. Apply a load of 3187N (325kgf) to the spring. The length of the spring under load must be at least 201 mm (182 mm for cars supplied for export). If the length of the spring marked yellow (white for export vehicles) (class A) is less than 207 mm (188 mm for export vehicles), replace it with a spring marked green (blue for export vehicles). export) (class B). It is recommended to replace both front suspension springs, and the springs must be of the same group. Replace the damaged upper spring cup. 13. All rack mounting bolts with damaged threads must also be replaced.

14. Reassemble the stand in reverse order. In this case, the protective casing is put on the annular groove of the compression stroke buffer.

15. Install the spring so that its end rests against the protrusion of the lower cup. Also install the top cup.

16. Final tighten the nuts after the vehicle is on the ground.

Replacing car body glasses

In what cases will glass replacement be required and what are the difficulties?

Based on the frequency of calls to service regarding the replacement of shock absorber cups, we will highlight three main reasons:

• Glasses torn out due to extensive corrosion damage. The main clients are owners of cars older than 7 years, who are inattentive to their cars or immediately after purchasing such a budget car.
• Glasses torn off due to jamming of shock absorbers or damage to other elements of the rear or front suspension. It vomits due to strong impacts, mainly when hitting holes at high speed.
• The glasses, most often together with the inner arch of the wing, are damaged or severely deformed as a result of serious accidents, and pulling out the metal on the slipway does not allow the geometry of the car to be restored.

The technology itself is quite standard - cut and clean, fit and weld, protect against rust. Possible problems are related to other factors:

• There is a significant amount of disassembly, especially when working with the front glasses; in some cases it is necessary to remove the engine.
• When replacing the glass along with the inner wheel arch, a large amount of welding work has to be performed. At the same time, it is difficult even for an experienced craftsman to connect the arch with other body elements without errors.
• In almost half of the cases, replacing glasses is associated with the need to carefully check the geometry of the body at control points and restore it. It is difficult to do with improvised means (stands, stops); the required accuracy result can only be obtained on a slipway.

Please note that any error in adjusting the position of the glass leads to a misalignment of the shock absorber. This causes a reduction in the service life of all suspension elements, and you will have to forget about normal wheel alignment/camber adjustment. In general, the owner of a car on which glasses were welded with errors will become a frequent visitor to the services.

Therefore, be responsible when choosing a specialist for such repairs. By the way, we provide a guarantee on all body work performed.

Where and what replacement components do we buy?

First of all, about what spare parts we offer you. For almost all cars there are several options, and in different price categories, namely:

• Inexpensive glasses, mostly assembled with internal arches, from disassembly . Ideal for Russian-assembled cars, the most common budget or mid-priced foreign cars. With some luck, you can find components for more expensive cars.
• Contract glasses are mostly supplied exclusively assembled with an internal arch; companies do not want to deal with such small things, and the cost of delivery can sometimes reach the price of the product itself. The advantage of this option is that you receive the body element you need in “like new” condition, despite the fact that it has already been in use.
• New analogues of the original glasses can be found for almost any car model of Russian or Asian assembly. Based on our experience, we will say that in terms of quality they are not much inferior to the originals. Even if there are inconsistencies, they are eliminated during the adjustment process. Differences may be in the thickness of the metal and the quality of processing. But considering that we propose to carry out the entire range of anti-corrosion treatment work after installation, this drawback does not play a significant role.
• Original glasses cannot be found for all cars. It is realistic to buy such components for a car no older than 5 years, but for expensive foreign cars it will be difficult. In principle, the problem can be solved, but searching and delivery will take time, so such orders must be made in advance. In terms of quality, this is, of course, the best option, but it also has a corresponding price.

The main problem of searching and purchasing body components is the need to make a remote purchase. When you do this yourself, it will be problematic to check the condition of the same glasses; you just have to trust the seller. This is what they take advantage of; more and more often you hear about cases of sending spare parts in unsatisfactory condition and refusals to send anything.

So that you do not have to deal with such fraud, we offer a service for searching, purchasing and delivering the necessary body elements and other spare parts. We work with a number of proven suppliers who solve almost any problem. Let us remind you that you receive all components exclusively at the purchase price, without risking anything at the search stage.

Possible replacement options

We change the right and left, front and rear shock absorber strut cups, there is not much difference in technology. The difference may be in the amount of preliminary disassembly of the machine (reinforcement work), but this has virtually no effect on the cost of replacement, except in cases where it is necessary to remove the engine.

Depending on the degree of damage to the glass, we offer the following replacement options:

• If only the upper part where the shock absorber is attached is damaged, and the condition of the inner arch is still satisfactory (there is living metal to which it can be welded), then we only change the glass itself.
• In cases where the damage also affected the arch, and to a significant extent, there is no point in restoring it. In such situations, it is advisable to change the entire element assembly, the inner arch and the glass itself.

Note that the second option is more preferable, since practice has shown that even an internal arch that is well protected from corrosion after replacing one glass lasts about 3 years. In addition, installing the torn part in such a way as to maintain the geometry of the body and ensure the correct position of the shock absorber strut will be problematic. By the way, it is the second replacement option that most sellers of body parts are pushing towards. This unit is mainly supplied assembled, since it is believed that the factory connection of the glass with the arch is more correct and reliable. Although this is not always true.

We will be able to say what technology we will use to replace the torn glasses only after diagnosing and determining the general list of damage in this area. Even a preliminary assessment from a photo will be purely indicative; inspection reveals a more complete picture.

General technology for replacing glasses

For the front and rear glasses, one standard replacement technology is used, which involves performing the following work:

• Disassembly and dismantling.
• Preparing and fitting a new part in place.
• Installation and welding.
• Anti-corrosion treatment and painting.

Only the locations of the welds differ. And when replacing the glasses themselves without an arch, there is no difference at all. In this case, we work according to the following scheme:

• We remove the shock absorber and provide access to the welds at the junction with the inner arch.
• We clean the paint and drill out the weld points.
• We remove the damaged part and align the metal on the base.
• We clean off the rust or remove it with a converter.
• We prime the arch and the glass itself with epoxy primer, and in the welding zone with a special conductive primer.
• We set and check distances at body control points.
• Boil and seal the seam with polyurethane sealant.
• We prime and paint again, and assemble the suspension.

Such a replacement takes up to 5-6 hours, it all depends on the condition of the suspension and the ability to quickly disassemble it. When completely replacing the wheel inner arch assembly, the situation is more complicated.

Reinforcement works and dismantling

Before starting disassembly during such a replacement, be sure to correct the geometry of the body as much as possible - stretch out the side members, wing reinforcements, rear or front panel. If you do not correct the shape immediately, then after removing the damaged glass it will be almost impossible to catch these millimeters. And any imperfections in the geometry lead to problems with the suspension and more.

When replacing the rear glasses, we disassemble the trunk trim, body pillars and threshold on the interior side, remove the rear seat and only after that dismantle the shock absorber.

There are more problems with the front cups, since you additionally have to remove separate equipment from the engine compartment, which makes it difficult to access the welds. You should not think that a locksmith is able to reach everywhere, although such a possibility exists in many cases. But in this case, installation and welding in hard-to-reach areas will take much more time. That is, in the end there is no saving. In case of serious damage, it is necessary to dismantle the engine, and when replacing both front glasses, it is better to do this in all cases.

The welds at the rear wheel arch with the cup are located along the body pillar, trunk floor, side panel, side members, and outer arch. At the front there is a spar, a wing reinforcement, an engine compartment shield, and an outer arch.

Further work is standard:

• We clean the paint along all seams.
• We drill out the weld points, going through only one layer of metal until a characteristic click is heard.
• If it is impossible to drill in certain areas, we cut out the damaged segment, and cut out the rest of the metal using a pneumatic tool with a chisel.
• We remove the entire wheel arch and align the edges with the body.

In parallel with dismantling, we are preparing the wheel arch with the glass for installation.

Preparing the donor and body for installation of new glasses

We clean the donor element from the transport primer to the metal; it still cannot be painted on. Along all edges we drill holes for spot welding in increments of 2-3 cm. There is a basic rule - the number of points should not be less than the factory ones. All areas where welding will be carried out are covered with conductive primer with zinc. It will provide the required strength of the weld points. All other surfaces are covered with 1-2 layers of epoxy primer.

The main problem with the body is usually associated with the presence of significant areas damaged by corrosion. We pay special attention to the outer wheel arch, side members, and body pillars. If possible, remove red stains by simply stripping. For deeper damage, treat the surfaces with a rust converter.

In those areas where the welds were, we cut off the remaining beads of metal and align the edges. Further preparation is standard - degrease and cover with welding or epoxy primer. We start fitting the donor and welding only after the soil has dried. To speed up this process, we use infrared heaters.

Welding work

You should not think that problems with glasses being pulled out are due to insufficient strength of spot welding, and that it is enough to weld all the seams completely. This will only lead to more trouble, and here's why:

• When continuously welding thin metal, deformation caused by local overheating is inevitable. In addition, after such impacts, steel loses its individual strength characteristics, and how it will behave in the future is unknown. Note that straightening cannot remove such deformation.
• Increasing the strength of the welded joint leads to improper distribution of loads. And if, during factory welding, the glass itself tears, replacing which will not cost that much, then when strengthened, other body elements, including power ones, will tear and deform. And such repairs will cost much more.
• Spot welding gives body elements a certain freedom, the ability to move relative to each other. Thanks to this, minor deformations of one part are not transferred to another and do not lead to its damage. With continuous welding there is no such possibility.

You should not replace spot welding with other technologies; this production decision was not made in vain.

We weld the wheel arch according to the following scheme recommended by automakers:

• We try on the new element in place, give it the desired shape, and fix it at 3-4 points with pliers or clamps.
• We check the correctness of the geometry by measuring the distances between control points. We start welding only when these values ​​correspond to the factory values.
• We weld 1-2 points at the joints with all adjacent body elements, after which we remove the temporary fasteners. We check the control distances again.
• We weld all the joints, moving in a circle through 3-4 points. It is not advisable to cook in a row to avoid local overheating of the metal. It’s easier to go through 3-4 passes than to constantly cool thin metal.

Note that last we weld the connection with the outer arch of the wing.

Corrosion protection

High-quality painting and anti-corrosion protection play a special role in the service life of the installed part. In this area we carry out the following activities:

• We clean the areas of soil damaged during welding, degrease them and re-cover them with epoxy primer.
• All welds must be protected from moisture penetration between the layers of metal. To do this, seal them with polyurethane sealant. We lay it in an even layer without gaps or breaks. We use only sealant intended for further painting.
• On the wheel side, we matte the surface, degrease it and apply 3-4 layers of anti-gravel or anti-corrosion. We offer a large selection of materials from this group based on bitumen or polymers. We work with Noxudol, Dinitrol, and a number of domestic products.
• We paint the side of the trunk, interior, and engine compartment in the color of the body; if you wish, we can leave only the primer, but this will not give much savings.

After all the coatings have completely dried, we assemble the suspension, put the shock absorbers and wheels in place. After such work, it is mandatory to adjust the wheel alignment, check the car in motion, and only after that we will return the car to you.

Features of replacing number glasses

Let's be honest, replacing number plates is a hemorrhoid. And not from the technical side, but purely from the legal side, related to the need to register such changes made to the design of the machine. So, we will do the technical part, and at the level of factory standards. But you will have to deal with obtaining permission for a replacement and subsequent re-issuance of documents yourself. We can only suggest a general algorithm for this process.

You will have to proceed according to the following scheme:

• Undergo a technical examination, which confirms that further operation of the machine is impossible due to a damaged glass.
• Contact the traffic police, get permission to replace it, and come to us.
• We carry out our part of the work in accordance with technological requirements.
• You re-issue the documents with the number of the new glass entered in the PTS.

Depending on your capabilities, this entire procedure will take from several days to several weeks. But this is the only way to solve the problem by acting according to the law.

If you have a need to change one or more shock absorber cups, you are simply looking for these components for your car, then call us or leave a request on the website. We will solve your problem to the required extent, with or without replacement. Call us and we will arrange a time that is convenient for both you and us to visit the service.

Analogs of front shock absorbers Lada 2110-12

Very often, when replacing a shock absorber strut or liner, preference is given to foreign manufacturers, since their products are relatively cheap and have a high level of quality. The most popular are the racks presented in the table.

Shock absorber KYB 665503

Shock absorber Hola S431

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• I do not like

vik-viktor 10 Apr 2012

[thank you very much super. there is no rot. Damn, I didn’t think of that myself. I will do it and post a photo report.

I don’t know how it is in your city, but here they very strictly won’t deregister the car and won’t put it on alloy wheels; if a sports steering wheel is installed, they’ll also force you to change it to the original one; they’ll definitely pay attention to the muffler and toner. The slightest scratch on the cup and you’re out. expert.

Product delivery options

Note! Below are the shipping methods available specifically for this product. Payment options may vary depending on the shipping method. Detailed information can be found on the “Delivery and Payment” page.

Parcel by Russian Post

Available payment methods:

Cash on delivery (payment upon receipt)

Shipping throughout Russia. Delivery time is from 5 to 12 days.

Parcel by Russian Post 1st class

Available payment methods:

• Cash on delivery (payment upon receipt)
• Using cards Sberbank, VTB, Post Bank, Tinkoff
• Yandex money
• QIWI
• ROBOKASSA

Shipping throughout Russia. Delivery time – from 2 to 5 days. More expensive than regular delivery by Russian Post, approximately 50%. Parcel weight up to 2.5 kg

Express Parcel EMS

Available payment methods:

• Cash on delivery (payment upon receipt)
• Using cards Sberbank, VTB, Post Bank, Tinkoff
• Yandex money
• QIWI
• ROBOKASSA

Shipping throughout Russia. Delivery time – from 3 to 7 days. More expensive than regular delivery by Russian Post, approximately 100%.

Transport companies

Available payment methods:

• Using cards Sberbank, VTB, Post Bank, Tinkoff
• Yandex money
• QIWI
• ROBOKASSA

Delivery is possible to any locality where there is a representative office of the transport company. Delivery time – from 2 to 10 days. Sending large parcels is approximately 50% more profitable than by Russian Post.

Messages 7

1 Topic by alex3004 2015-04-22 18:55:45

• alex3004
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• From: Rostov region
• Registration: 2013-10-11
• Messages: 62 Thanks : 13
• Car: VAZ 2110103

Topic: How to replace a body part with a VIN number?

please tell me, has anyone encountered such a problem? it is necessary to cut off the front right side with the numbered glass and weld a new one without a number! but not a single master undertakes to do this without some kind of piece of paper authorizing dismantling and welding work in this place. If anyone knows who exactly I should contact, please tell me. Thank you very much in advance! p.s. They told me to contact the MREO, but they all point their fingers at each other and say that this is the first time they have encountered something like this.

2 Reply from Anton 2015-04-23 06:04:51

• Anton
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Re: How to replace a body part with a VIN number?

3 Reply from iliaBkmz 2015-04-24 08:00:15

• iliaBkmz
• Forum legend
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• Registration: 2012-11-12
• Messages: 2,035 Thanks : 583
• Car: outlander and 2104

Re: How to replace a body part with a VIN number?

To be honest, all this overcooking of the numbered glass is a big headache. The one who will digest (only official service) must have permission to perform this type of work, with a copy of which then you need to go to the traffic police. But they will most likely still send you for examination. In general, there are a lot of headaches with such machines - I’m telling you from personal experience! Usually (in practice, such cars are used by those who have friends in the traffic police).

4 Reply from alex3004 2015-04-26 00:02:43

• alex3004
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• From: Rostov region
• Registration: 2013-10-11
• Messages: 62 Thanks : 13
• Car: VAZ 2110103

Re: How to replace a body part with a VIN number?

Thank you for your responses to this topic! I also found three generations of acquaintances in this field, but what is even more important - guys, it’s better to look for more than a dozen handicraftsmen, someone will take it! That's how I found the bodybuilder. He said, “Take a lot of money, but I’ll save the glass.” "The man answered for his words! so forum members, don’t despair, there are people who are afraid of this.

5 Reply from sergo9531 2015-04-26 13:04:29

• sergo9531
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• From: Domodedovo
• Registration: 2014-01-12
• Messages: 578 Thanks : 208
• Auto: 21114

Communities › VAZ: Repair and Modification › Blog › Front glasses are cracking

Good evening, fellow pelvis workers! I have a VAZ 2115 car. The problem is that the front glass where the VIN number is cracked. Tell me how to solve the problem? Please provide links or help with advice?! Thanks in advance)))

Comments 107

They won’t, you just need to take a photo like it was and is!

and the guys won’t wag their brains for welding when removing (or registering)?!

When everything is welded from the inside, you can install a spacer.

as already written below, install amplifiers. Both glasses also cracked at once, then the amplifiers were welded from the inside of the arch, now everything is fine.

Faceted Glass Day in Russia

The history of a product is stored not only in historical facts, but also in the memories of people whose everyday life is integrally connected with it. They drank sparkling water from it right on the street, tea on trains, for which they put a cup holder, and drank alcoholic beverages. The Soviet cut glass has become a housewife's assistant in the kitchen. It helped to accurately measure the number of grams of a bulk product or milliliters of liquid.

Therefore, it is not surprising that later a date was set when the holiday of the cut glass could be officially celebrated. This is one day a year - September 11, on which the first glass came out of the Gus-Khrustalny glass factory assembly line. Although there is no documentary evidence of this fact. Russia timed this day to coincide with the All-Russian Day of Sobriety. Which can become the countdown date for giving up a bad habit for everyone.

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Wirus 11 Apr 2012

No, it’s easier for us! current tinting, like everywhere else, will not be missed!

I think the examination is not a terrible thing, because the glass has not been replaced; the car is not stolen! Let them check! and I wasn’t going to sell it, I’ll give it to my wife and then let her learn to drive!! ))) Of course, everything in life happens, so I want to do it more carefully!

Glass volume

Modern models have replaced the ribbed drinking container. Therefore, now not everyone knows whether a faceted glass has a volume of 200 or 250 ml? Let's consider its main dimensional characteristics:

• the mass regulated by GOST is in the range of 225-235 grams;
• the volume of a faceted glass filled to the top edge is 250 ml, and filling to the level of the rim is 200 ml (in the case of bulk products, 1 milliliter corresponds to 1 gram);
• the diameter of the upper circle is 7.2-7.3 cm, and the bottom is 5.5 cm;
• height is about 10.5 cm.

The capacity of a faceted glass is still considered a reference point for many housewives. Its capacity often acts as a measure of the required amount of sugar for a biscuit or the ratio of cereals and water for cooking porridge. The size of the upper diameter is considered universal for hand-sculpting dumplings of the same size or neat round cookies.

The history of the lipped glass is multifaceted, as is the variable number of sides of its walls. And although the author of the product has not been documented, the fact that the glass with edges is originally Russian does not lead anyone into doubt.

Messages 11

1 Topic from G_E_N_A_1988 2016-06-24 20:44:28

• G_E_N_A_1988
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• Registration: 2013-10-07
• Messages: 148 Thanks : 14
• Car: VAZ 21102

Topic: Resolved: Glasses are rotting, how much will it cost to repair?

The glasses on the car started to rot, please tell me how much the repair will cost, at least approximately and the price of the glasses themselves

2 Reply from Denis Artyukhov 2016-06-25 02:40:56

• Denis Artyukhov
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• From: Penza
• Registration: 2015-10-21
• Messages: 1,390 Thanks : 278
• Car: VAZ 21124

Re: Resolved: Glasses are rotting, how much will it cost to repair?

So you don’t have to change the glasses entirely, but replace the rotten area. In general, it’s hard to say, I’d like to see a photo.

3 Reply from G_E_N_A_1988 2016-06-25 17:25:44

• G_E_N_A_1988
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• Registration: 2013-10-07
• Messages: 148 Thanks : 14
• Car: VAZ 21102

Re: Resolved: Glasses are rotting, how much will it cost to repair?

I have small through holes near the seams

4 Reply from iliaBkmz 2016-06-27 10:24:59

• iliaBkmz
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• Registration: 2012-11-12
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• Car: outlander and 2104

Re: Resolved: Glasses are rotting, how much will it cost to repair?

+1 I would also just brew it - it’s expensive to change and not always better. For prices - it’s better to find out in your region. Or even in your area. The main thing is that the master has a good reputation

5 Reply from G_E_N_A_1988 2016-06-28 19:23:41

• G_E_N_A_1988
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• Registration: 2013-10-07
• Messages: 148 Thanks : 14
• Car: VAZ 21102