How to remove, repair or change the generator on a VAZ 2107

In what situations is replacement necessary?

Wear of the element is characterized by such manifestations as cracks or tears in the canvas, worn teeth and uneven edges. If you ignore such a deplorable state of a very important element, it will come back to haunt you with overheating and boiling of the engine, independent operation of the battery, which will lead to its rapid discharge.

If the belt is severely worn, it also shows signs of noise to the owner - it begins to whistle, especially at low speeds. The next reason for a whistling belt may be water getting on its surface, which occurs due to worn-out pipes of the cooling system - antifreeze begins to leak.

Some belts - oak ones - whistle when the car starts in frosty weather, and after warming up the sound is lost. A weak tension is expressed by a whistle, but in this case it is quite easy to overtighten.

how to remove the generator

from a
VAZ
of the traditional model range.

More details: 2107

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DIY belt replacement process

front part
Having gained access to the required element, inspect it. Replacing the alternator belt on a VAZ 2107, then watch the video on replacing the clutch on a VAZ 2107. If there is no visually visible damage on the belt, just check the tension, it may have weakened. Generator belt. Replacing the VAZ 2107 generator belt. Checking the tension of the VAZ 2107 generator belt To check the tension of the generator belt, you need to use a ruler to determine the amount of deflection in the area between the pump pulley and the crankshaft. This is easy to do, just press the belt with your fingers, simulating a pressure of approximately 10 kg, and by the distance of deflection you can determine whether the element is in acceptable tone. The maximum standards in a narrower place are 10-15 mm, and in those where the space between the pulleys is wider - 12-17 mm.

You only need to remove the belt from the pulleys if it is completely replaced; you do not need to do this to retighten it. At the bottom of the car, unscrew the nut securing the generator underneath by one turn. In the engine compartment, loosen the upper fastening nut of the same device a few turns. Under no circumstances should you completely unscrew the fasteners, just loosen them until they begin to turn freely.

To remove the belt, you will need to press the alternator slightly against the engine, but under no circumstances do this with your bare hands. Replacing the rear brake discs of a Ford Focus 2 video, removing and replacing the front and rear brake discs of a Ford Focus, how to change the rear struts on a VAZ 2112 with your own hands, video, fuse. Then remove the belt. You need to start with the top pulley, and then with the rest. Only in this order will it be easy to remove the element. On injection car models, you will also need to remove the crankshaft position sensor, otherwise it will interfere with the removal of the belt.

After the manipulations have been completed, check the belt tension again using the previously described method.

To put on a new belt, you need to know some of the nuances of this process. For example, one of the most important points: you need to put the belt on, starting with the crankshaft pulley, then on the generator pulley, and only finally on the pump pulley.

Thanks to the video instructions, you can learn in more detail and clearly how to change or tighten the alternator belt if you plan to do it yourself for the first time.

How to check the generator

An initial performance check is carried out if the battery charging indicator light on the dashboard lights up while the engine is running. First check the belt tension. When pressing on the middle part of the belt sag with your thumb with force, the belt displacement should be in the range from 1.0 to 1.5 centimeters. With a larger displacement, the belt may slip and the dynamo will not provide the required charging current. Too much belt tension (less than 0.5 cm) leads to premature wear of the bearings. If the belt is very worn, it should be replaced.

Next, with the engine running, use a multimeter to measure the voltage on the battery. The multimeter probes are connected to the battery terminals. The voltage should be between 13.5 and 14.5 Volts. On a weak battery, the voltage can rise to 15 Volts, but no more. If the voltage is outside these limits, then repair is necessary. Before making this decision, you should check the voltages supplied to the generator terminals.

The terminal to which the thick wire comes is constantly supplied with +12 Volts from the battery. The thin wire connector receives positive voltage when the ignition is on. If the voltages do not correspond to the correct values, you should check its connection diagram.

Repair and overhaul of generator VAZ-2107 37.3701

In this material we will talk about how to repair and overhaul the VAZ-2107 generator brand 37.3701. This manual is suitable for almost all classic generators, G-222 and others. The principles of assembly and disassembly are the same for everyone. The main thing during such work is to stock up on high-quality spare parts, because the most difficult and time-consuming thing here is the work process itself, and therefore it will be a shame to go through and disassemble the generator again because in a month the bearing will make noise or the diode bridge will burn out again. Ideally, we will need a universal puller (I personally used a rod puller instead, which turned out to be not very convenient, but after some fiddling around I removed the bearing with it, you can do without it). It is also good to have a metal brush or brushes in the form of attachments for a drill on hand. Anyway, let's go...

If there is a problem with the bearings or the belt is dirty

If the device slipping in the VAZ-2107 is caused by the slow rotation of the pulley, which depends on the serviceability of the bearings, it’s time to start repairing the latter. To do this, you will again need to use the instructions on how to remove the generator and how to disassemble it. If you are not confident in your abilities, you should not experiment; it is better to contact a service station.

Another possible breakdown is contamination on the belt. It is difficult to completely clean the part from dirt and dust, so experts recommend replacing the old belt with a new one.

Step-by-step video instructions on how to properly disassemble the VAZ-2107 generator are shown below:

One of the reasons why the battery is not charging is a breakdown of the generator. Before you independently repair the VAZ 2107 generator, you need to find out the causes of the breakdown and become familiar with the technology for removing, restoring and installing it.

1. Causes of generator malfunction
2. Removing the VAZ 2107 generator
3. Disassembling the VAZ 2107 generator
4. Assembling a VAZ 2107 generator

VAZ 2105 – disassembly and repair of generator 372.3701

03 October 2013

Disassembly of the generator series 372.3701 on a VAZ 2105 car is carried out for repairs in order to replace failed elements. Prepare a standard set of tools; you will also need a three-beam bearing puller and a metal mandrel for pressing in new bearings. If you have everything you need, follow the steps below:

• First of all, you need to remove the impeller from the pulley. To do this, we keep the rotor from turning by placing a screwdriver between the impeller blades and resting it against the generator housing like a lever.
• We unscrew the impeller fastening nut, remove it and the limit washers located under it and the segment key on the shaft.

• Now you need to remove the voltage regulator. We disconnect the block with the power wires from it.
• Then use a Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the two screws securing it to the generator housing.

• We take the regulator out of its seat and put it aside so that it does not interfere.
• Now you need to remove the generator cover. To do this, use a ten-point socket to unscrew the four nuts securing the covers and remove the bolts.

• We rest the cover against a wooden block, after which we apply light blows to the end of the shaft with a rubber hammer or a regular one (through a wooden spacer), thereby pressing the front cover bearing off it, which also remains in place.
• Remove the cover and the spacer located underneath it.

• If necessary, we replace the cover bearing. To do this, use an eight-mm socket to unscrew and remove the four screws securing its cover.
• After that, we press out the bearing using a mandrel of suitable diameter.

• We remove the rotor. We turn the generator over with the back cover facing up and install it on wooden spacers.
• We take a small tube made of soft metal and through the hole where the voltage regulator was installed, we apply light blows to the rotor.
• If it is necessary to replace the rotor bearing, we use a three-beam puller.

• Now you need to remove the stator winding from the generator housing. To do this, from the inside, use an eight-point socket wrench to unscrew the nuts securing the rectifier unit, which are also fastenings for the terminals of the stator windings.
• We remove two bolts and remove the stator from the housing.

• Using a ten-point deep socket, unscrew the output nut “30” and, having removed it, remove the insulating gasket located under it.
• Then remove the rectifier unit from the housing.
• Unscrew the fastening screw and remove the capacitor.

Connecting devices

The generator is connected in parallel to the battery. The relay regulator monitors the voltage level and controls the excitation current of the generator. Figure 1 shows a connection diagram for a 37.3701 generator with a built-in relay regulator.

Let's list the elements of the scheme:

1. Battery.
2. Diode "-".
3. Additional diode.
4. Generator.
5. Diode "+".
6. Stator winding.
7. Regulator.
8. Excitation winding.
9. Capacitor.
10. Mounting block.
11. Charge indicator lamp.
12. Voltmeter (not available on VAZ-2105).
13. Ignition relay.
14. Ignition switch.

Disassembling the generator VAZ 2107, VAZ 2105, VAZ 2104

generator, replacement and troubleshooting

Generator 37.3701. Clean and blow out the generator with compressed air. Lock the generator pulley with the clamp included in the set of tool 67.7823.9504, unscrew the pulley fastening nut and compress the pulley using a puller. Remove the key and tapered washer from the pulley. Tool kit 67.7823.9504 includes a regular puller and grip. The latter consists of two steel half-rings that are inserted into the pulley groove. The half rings have the same cross-section as the generator drive belt. On one side they are hinged, and on the other they are equipped with levers that are compressed with one hand when removing the pulley.

Parts of the VAZ 2107 generator - 37.3701: 1 - voltage regulator assembled with brush holder for generators produced since 1996; 2 - voltage regulator and brush holder for generators manufactured before 1996; 3 — terminal block for additional diodes; 4 — insulating bushings; 5 - rectifier block; 6 — contact bolt; 7 - stator; 8 - rotor; 9 — spacer sleeve; 10—inner bearing mounting washer; 11 — cover from the drive side; 12 - pulley; 13 - outer bearing mounting washer; 14 - coupling bolt; 15 — front rotor ball bearing; 16 — bushing; 17 — cover from the side of the slip rings; 18 — buffer sleeve; 19 — clamping sleeve; 20 - capacitor

Disconnect the wire from plug “B” of the voltage regulator. Disconnect the wires of the regulator and capacitor from terminal “30” of the VAZ 2104, VAZ 2105, VAZ 2107 generator and unscrew the screws securing the voltage regulator. For generators made before 1996, in order not to break the brushes when removing the brush holder, insert the blade of a screwdriver between the body of the regulator 2 and the brush holder and partially pull the regulator out of the generator, leaving the brush holder of the VAZ 2105 generator in place. After this, tilt and remove the regulator together with the brush holder from generator Remove the capacitor 20 by unscrewing the fastening screw. Unscrew the nuts of the coupling bolts 14 and remove the generator cover 11 and the rotor 8. Unscrew the nuts of the bolts connecting the tips of the diodes to the stator winding terminals and remove the stator 7 from the generator cover 17. Unscrew the nut of the contact bolt 6, disconnect from pads 3 plug wires of additional diodes and remove the rectifier unit 5.

Completion

The most typical and common breakdowns were presented. For correct diagnosis in serious cases, special stands are needed, which are present in many workshops. It should be noted that sometimes the cost of such repairs can be equal to or even exceed the price of a new generator. Therefore, repair is not always the answer.

From the text it becomes clear that there are no significant differences between the injection VAZ 2107 and the earlier carburetor version. The same applies to the modification of the VAZ 21074 and all others.

Generator manufacturers claim that the generator is designed for 200-250 thousand kilometers. After passing the barrier of 100-150 thousand, it is necessary to conduct a thorough inspection and lubricate all mechanical connections.