Why Lada Priora starts and stalls and what to do

VAZ (Lada) Priora 2007 - present

When you turn the key to the starter position, the engine seizes and immediately stalls. The devices all work, power comes from the lock, but the starter relay does not. Regardless of engine temperature. And so on several times. Then it starts. Works fine, no error codes. They don't see anything on the diagnostics.

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Explanation of the starter connection diagram:

• 1 – starter;
• 2 – mounting block;
• 3 – ignition switch;
• 4 – battery;
• A – to the main relay, pin “30”;
• B – to contact “50” of the ECU;
• C – to the main fuse block (F3);
• K3 – starter activation relay

You write that the starter relay does not receive power, but how do you crank the engine and start it? From a pusher or what? Either the fuel is flowing poorly, or the check valve is dumping it, that is, the pressure in the fuel rail is weak. Or the immobilizer is tricky if it is activated on your car.

Try it tomorrow (next time in general), before turning on the starter, let the fuel pump run three times. That is, turn on the ignition three times and let the fuel pump work - if you listen, you will hear its buzzing. If the engine starts without problems, then most likely the fuel pump is already very weak and needs to be changed.

When I turn the key, it powers the relay and the starter comes on. Then it disappears. The fuel pump gives 4 kg of pressure, I checked it. This effect is repeated even if the engine was running, I turn it off and start it right away. I'm sinning on the ECU or immobilizer. I was told that this could happen when there is a glitch in the camshaft position sensor, but then it should show an error.

Replace relay k3 and look. Yeah, let's change the ECU. And then the immobilizer. This may not be all, but it depends on what series the immobilizer is.

Winter is the most difficult time for drivers. It is in the cold that many people face a huge number of problems. One of them is a situation when the Priora either does not start, or starts and stalls.

What do you need to do to get your car to start?

Main reasons

It is very difficult to immediately find out why the engine refuses to start when it is cold. There can be two options here - either there is no spark, or there is no fuel. But if you look deeper, you can identify other problems. Let's look at the most basic reasons for cold starting of the Lada Priora engine.

Experts identify the following problems. These are low quality fuel, clogged injectors, clogged fine fuel filter, malfunction of the fuel pump, incorrect pressure adjustment in the fuel rail, clogged air filter, dirty throttle valve, clogged idle valve and low ambient temperatures during engine starting. Also, the Priora has difficulty starting when cold due to faults with the mass air flow sensor and temperature sensor.

Why Lada Priora won't start - reasons

There are two cases when the car does not start at all - if the starter works or if it does not work. Both cases are negative, but the difference is that the signs of trouble to listen for and look for are slightly different. If the Priora starter does not turn, it is recommended to check the following points:

• The battery may be discharged. Charge it or, if you're short on time, borrow a working battery from a friend to test your guess.
• The battery terminals are oxidized or the wire terminals are oxidized. Check, ring the contacts, and then lubricate them with technical Vaseline. Finally, check the tightness of the terminals and, if necessary, tighten them.
• The engine or other components of the machine are jammed. The culprit may be the crankshaft, generator pulley or pump. We'll have to check all this.
• The starter is broken, the inside of it is damaged or worn out: the drive gear, the teeth of the flywheel ring. In order to determine the malfunction, you will have to dismantle and then disassemble it - only inspection of the parts can confirm the hypothesis. You don't always need to change the starter - just install a new part inside.
• Problems with the starter circuit. You will have to carry out diagnostics first while driving, and then look at it manually. Most often, the culprits are oxidized or loose wires, relays, or ignition switch.
• Starter traction relay malfunction. The diagnostic mechanism is no different from the previous version: turn the key to the second position, there should be clicks. The relay clicks and this is normal starter operation.
• Poor contact with the “minus”, the wires or contacts of the traction relay are oxidized. A click will be heard, but the starter will not turn. You need to ring the entire system, and then clean it at the connections, tighten the terminals.
• Short circuit or break in the holding winding of the traction relay. If this is the case, you will have to replace the starter traction relay. Instead of a click, a cracking sound will be heard when you turn the key, and the relay itself needs to be checked with an ohmmeter or touched, assessing the degree of heating.
• The problem is inside: the armature winding, the commutator, the starter brushes are worn out. You need to dismantle the starter and carry out diagnostics from the battery, and then with a multimeter. The freewheel is running slowly. The armature will rotate, but the flywheel will remain in place.

Also, the VAZ-2170 may not crank the starter - when you can’t hear anything at all when you turn the key in the ignition switch. This case is associated with the following problems:

• The gas has run out or the battery is low. It’s trivial that the starter has nowhere to get energy to start. If the battery is discharged, you will hear a cracking noise when you try to start the engine. And the fuel pump cannot pump up fuel to release it inside the chamber. On the dashboard, the fuel gauge needle will be at zero.
• Oxidation of the wires or battery terminals or connections are not just tight enough. You need to clean the contacts and then check how tightly the connections fit together.
• Mechanical damage to the crankshaft (when scuffs, cracks, chips appear on bearing shells, shafts, engine oil freezes or the generator or anti-freeze pump jams). First, you should change the engine oil and check the shafts for damage, then change the generator and pump.
• No spark is produced. A coil and spark plugs work to create a spark. It is necessary to check these elements, diagnosing their operation, and then replace the faulty parts.
• Incorrect connection of high-voltage wires. You will have to look at all the connections, correct or correct what is already installed incorrectly.
• The timing belt has broken (or worn out when the teeth on the belt have worn down). The only solution is to replace the belt.
• Error in valve timing order. Inspect the crankshaft and camshaft pulleys and then adjust their position.
• Error in the "computer". First check the electrical access to the ECU and sensors. If everything is connected correctly, you will have to replace the control unit.
• The idle speed control is unstable. This can be corrected by replacing the corresponding sensor. Check fuses and relays under the steering column.
• Fuel system contamination. Checking the filter, pump, line and outlet from the tank.
• Wear of the fuel pump and, as a result, insufficient pressure inside the system.
• The injectors are worn out. Their windings need to be tested with an ohmometer and the circuit generally checked.
• Air flow to the engine is difficult. Assess the condition of the hoses, clamps and air filter.

Low quality fuel

At domestic gas stations, low-quality fuel is by no means uncommon. But even at branded gas stations you can buy low quality gasoline. As a result, the car will be difficult to start. The car will leave the gas station on the remaining old gasoline, and the engine will be warmed up. But after being idle, it will be quite difficult to start the car. There are several types of low-quality gasoline.

Fuel may be dirty: it may contain various deposits. They clog the fuel channels as well as the filters. As a result, the pressure in the fuel rail will be insufficient, and it will be very difficult to start the engine.

Gasoline can also be low octane. Most often, with such fuel, the car may not start when cold even the third time. You will hear the noise the engine is making, you will feel weak thrust, and detonation will occur. Experts do not recommend starting a car on this fuel.

To eliminate the cause, it is enough to drain the bad fuel and then flush the fuel system. Then you need to fill the tank with good gasoline.

Priora stalls while driving and idling - logbook of Lada Priora Sedan 2008 on DRIVE2

Hello Priorovods! In general, they recently rebuilt my engine, changed the oil pump, the pistons with lightweight STK plug-in ones (inset rings), the oil receiver, took the block and head to be bored (that’s where I got the piston), luk clutch, 4.1 spider insert. instead of the catalytic converter, hydraulics, caps, seals, gaskets, oil with filter (all this came out to 20 tr.) the whole thing was collected and I went home here, before the pedestrian crossing, I switch from 3rd to 2nd gear and the car stalls, I start the food and then decided drive a little bit test I'm standing at the intersection waiting for the green car with the handbrake not in gear and it stalled again figs with it I start the food further in the end I got home the next day I went to pick up my sister the car again stalled not all the time but sometimes I called those who were capital they say come and change spark plugs and adjust the throttle cable. I went and bought spark plugs and decided to buy an idle air regulator just in case. I’ve already replaced 3 of them, I probably came across fakes, now I took Hoefer spark plugs, changed the regulator, also happy, I went home the next day, again the car stalls while driving and it stalls when I press the clutch to change gears, I often noticed that the revolutions drop to 500 (the light comes on for a second battery) and then normalize, and when I started it up and drove on, the immobilizer warning light came on for a while, but if you drive longer, it doesn’t seem to stall. What could be the problem? I’m thinking of changing the fuel pump, after the capital check the check hasn’t come out yet, so I haven’t checked it yet

Guys, who made the capital, I don’t want to disturb the holidays after all

Fuel pump

This is one of the popular reasons why Priora has difficulty starting when cold. This is due to a malfunction in the fuel pump. You can even hear the sound of the node operating. But if the pump is faulty, the fuel system will not have the pressure necessary for normal operation. There is no pressure in the fuel rail, which means that starting will be poor, or the engine will not start at all.

The fuel pump can only be checked using your ears. You need to turn on the ignition of the Lada Priora. At the same time, if the fuel pump is working, a characteristic buzzing sound will be heard from the side of the tank. It will only last a few seconds. When a sufficient amount of gasoline is pumped into the ramp and the pressure becomes normal, then the pump will turn off. If there is no buzzing sound after turning on the ignition, it is recommended to replace the fuel pump.

Malfunctions in the intake system

This refers to the air filter, intake manifold, and throttle valve. The first of the listed elements has the “property” of becoming clogged with dust and dirt over time. As a result, the engine receives a mixture in which there is little air (or no air at all) and the engine stops working immediately after starting.

As for the throttle valve, it makes sense to check the normal operation of the sensor that controls its position. Clogged intake lines are a rare occurrence and are usually associated with a poor air filter allowing contaminants to pass through.

Throttle valve

A dirty throttle body could very well be the cause. The Priora has difficulty starting when cold due to the supply of not clean air through the damper, but with various deposits. All this can prevent the preparation of a normal mixture in the correct proportions.

Sometimes the throttle valve can even get stuck due to the huge amount of deposits on it. To solve the problem, experts recommend cleaning the throttle - you can do this yourself using an injector cleaning spray.

What's the result?

As you can see, there are many reasons why an engine starts and stalls after starting. However, most of them are usually related to the fuel system, ignition system and electronic control system.

In this case, it is appropriate to talk about low compression in the cylinders due to the fact that the engine has exhausted its service life (cylinder walls, rings, etc. are worn out), that is, the unit needs major repairs. Compression can be measured at a gas station or independently using a compression meter.

The engine stops at idle: what to check. Possible causes of malfunction on engines with a carburetor, injector, diesel power plants.

At a minimum, it works "floating point": because it does. The main malfunctions associated with idling on gasoline and diesel engines.

The main reasons why the engine starts to stall after warming up. Frequent problems with the carburetor and injection engine, fault diagnosis.

The reasons why, after pressing the accelerator pedal, breakdowns occur and the engine begins to choke. Malfunctions in the LPG engine when switching from gasoline to gas.

Why the engine cannot gain speed: gasoline engine, diesel unit, gas car. Fault diagnosis, useful tips.

Reasons why the engine may stall when you press the brake. The power unit stalls during sudden braking, when pressing the clutch and brake, etc.

Good evening, tell me what it could be: Priora 2008 16 cl, the fact is this: when the engine starts or starts and immediately stops, or starts and the speed is unstable for several seconds, while the speed is low until the accelerator pedal You press it, after the gas stop it works smoothly. And yet, a very important situation, the car does not pull from the base, the pedal has become somewhat dull, it does not immediately respond to the gas, the car rarely shakes. I changed the mesh in the tank, the fuel pump, the gas filter, cleaned the throttle valve, changed the spark plugs. I did the diagnostics, except for the MAF sensor, it showed nothing, I replaced the sensor, nothing changed.

Well, as for the position sensors and idle speed, I installed the piezo like you installed the usual ok

0 0 Answer rating: 0

It was like that until the skate was thrown away and it was scored.

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How are the candles?

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Ignition system

This is another fairly common option and the reason why the Priora has difficulty starting when cold. Almost regularly, due to sudden and constant temperature changes, various microcracks form in the ignition coils. When the coil heats up, it tends to expand. If there are cracks between the walls of the coil, then there is no hot breakdown, since the gap in the crack will be minimal. When it is cold, the microcrack will be larger and as a result there will be a breakdown. There will be no spark on the spark plug. There is no ignition of the mixture, the car does not start well.

The problem exists not only with the ignition coils, but with any other components that operate in the Priora ignition system. This could be a distributor, wires, spark plugs. In this case, there is nothing better than replacing the coil and other elements.

FakeHeader

Comments 61

wash the throttle body!

found the reason? same problem

no, I haven’t found it, I want to find a real IAC, not a fake one, but I can’t find it yet

I found the reason, look in the blog tomorrow, maybe it’s the same for you

it's good if I found it, I'll definitely read it, I hope it's the same for me

In short, I realized one thing in car services they screw up, it’s better to look for those who do diagnostics at home themselves, but in general someone in our city should know good diagnosticians; you can count them on the fingers of one hand, I think in your city you should also ask your friends

check the pressure on the ramp, if the current with gas starts up, then the rcx is to blame, because it is he who sets the starting gap bypassing the damper. Rhx is the nose, and the throttle is the mouth, close both and there will be nothing to breathe)). Well, look at the dpkv again, maybe the wiring has come loose

Low battery charge

If the Priora has an old battery installed, then in cold weather it discharges faster. This means that starting a cold engine in the morning can be problematic. Sometimes even a new battery drains quickly. In this case, you should look for current leaks. It may be in the wiring or the leak is occurring in some device.

If the search for current leakage does not produce results, then it is recommended to check how the generator charges the battery. If the charge is insufficient, then the battery will not charge fully. As a result, the starter will turn much harder than if the engine was cold.

Idle speed sensor

This is also a common problem when the Priora 16 valves have difficulty starting when cold. This sensor is an electromagnet and a rod. When the car is cold, the temperature sensor reports this to the control unit and it sends a signal to the sensor responsible for idling. The engine speed will be increased until it warms up. The sensor rod extends and the throttle opens slightly. When the engine warms up, the ECU reports this to the sensor. The rod slowly moves back.

If there is a malfunction with the idle speed sensor, the rod does not extend, and accordingly, the throttle does not open slightly or does not open completely. The sensor may be dirty, or the coil located inside the IAC may fail.

If it stalls while driving, what is it?

First of all, when the Priora suddenly stalls when the engine is running, check whether you have left the clutch pedal - perhaps you were accidentally distracted by something and did not notice how you removed your foot. But usually the car stalls when the gas pedal is released while driving. Symptoms of the problem are as follows:

• increased fuel consumption, air consumption;
• injection takes longer (the engine operating cycle is extended in time);
• The idle speed control operates with a delay;
• The voltage in the power supply fluctuates.

Compression

If the 16-valve Priora has difficulty starting when cold, and all the options described above are not suitable, then it is worth checking the compression. In this case, with low compression, starting a cold engine can be very difficult.

When engine parts are warm enough, they expand. Even a slight expansion will be enough for the compression to rise and the engine to start. If the engine is cold, there is no expansion. Therefore, starting will be difficult.

Oil

Many car owners try to change their oil before winter. But not everyone knows that the oil with the lowest viscosity is best suited for winter. Thick oil will simply harden in winter. In addition, when the engine is cold, it is very difficult for it to drive thick oil through the channels. If the picture is complemented by an old battery, then this aggravates the situation even more. Therefore, you need to try to purchase oil of exactly the viscosity at which the engine can start normally even in cold weather. Typically, a product with a viscosity of 5W30 is purchased. But in any case, you need to look at the manufacturer's recommendations. You should not deviate significantly from the tolerances.

Hot work

Problems with the engine arise not only in cold weather, but also in a Lada that has just been running. Many car owners are faced with a situation where a hot engine does not start after stopping. Some drivers start turning the starter, draining the battery.

Smoke is a warning sign

The main problem is that when the engine is running, a large amount of air passes through the carburetor, due to which the engine is cooled. The same thing happens with gasoline. When the engine is running, the carburetor temperature is lower than the engine temperature. This difference persists only during the workflow. As soon as the engine stops, the carburetor begins to heat up intensely from the hot engine body.

Starts and stalls

It also happens that the Priora has difficulty starting when cold and stalls. First of all, experts attribute this to the fact that little fuel is supplied to the combustion chambers, and with it cold air, which interferes with the normal ignition of the fuel mixture.

This problem can be fixed. To do this, you need to insert the ignition key into the lock to start the fuel pump. The ignition is turned off and then turned again to start the pump. When the pump is turned off, you can proceed to start the car.

The second solution to this problem is to check and try to stabilize the pressure in the fuel system. They also check the fuel filter and adjust the throttle clearance. Next, check the spark plugs and wires.

Injector malfunction

The next reason that the engine starts and immediately stalls is a malfunction of the injector. Since most modern cars have a forced fuel injection system, this malfunction is very common.

Don't make mistakes.

What should not be allowed when operating fuel-injected cars:

• Do not disconnect the battery while the engine is running.
• Try to play with lighting as little as possible, and in general, handle food as carefully as possible. Injection cars are very sensitive to such manipulations.
• Try not to disconnect the ground on the car. Although I turn off the mains in my car in winter if I don’t drive for a long time, and so far I have not noticed any discomfort in operation, although many experts say that it is possible to erase information in the computer. I just try to let the car idle for up to 3 minutes when starting the engine.
• Injector-injected cars are not very fond of charging and starting devices, since when they are used, the voltage jumps significantly and the ECU can burn out.

• If a neutralizer is provided in the design of the car, then try not to start the car by towing or pushing it down a hill, as unburned fuel is formed, which, if it gets into the neutralizer, can ignite spontaneously.
• Do not allow water to enter the injector; this is strictly contraindicated. To do this, change fuel filters in a timely manner and fill with high-quality gasoline.

What does a neutralizer look like?

• If your car is equipped with an L probe and a neutralizer, then think about whether you should take the risk by using leaded gasoline. When using such gasoline, the L-probe, in addition to the fact that it itself can quickly break down, it will transmit incorrect data to the ECU, indicating a large amount of oxygen, and this, to put it mildly, is not very good, as it can lead to local overheating of the engine .

So, we return again to our problem, the engine starts and immediately stalls or does not start at all.

Messages 14

1 Topic by Admin 2015-11-21 08:32:14

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Topic: Resolved: In cold weather -17 and below it won’t start, it seizes and immediately stalls, I’ve been worrying for a year!

One user contacted. He has a Priora. As soon as the frost is -17 and below, it will not start. Beginning. twist, grab and immediately stall, and so on ad infinitum. If by some miracle it starts, the speed rises sharply, then drops and stalls again. After I’ve fired up all the spark plugs, I’ll charge the dead new battery to zero after trying to start it at -17-20 (below -20 I don’t even go near it), and if, by some miracle, it starts, then you just have to turn it off , you start to start, and only the starter spins, you start to nervously press the gas pedal, it jerks and starts as if for the last time. But most often she remains standing in the yard, one of hundreds of cars. That's it, every day, every week, every year as soon as frost appears. If I can’t start it at all, I’ll take it to a warm garage or wait until summer. Both there and there it starts normally. They did everything - diagnostics, replaced sensors, only pour good oil, iridium spark plugs, new battery. etc.

Replacing the gas pedal on Grant

The replacement procedure is quite simple and does not require special technical means. In order to dismantle the unit you will need: - A key for 10.

Sequential steps to replace the gas pedal of a Lada Granta:

1. The first step is to remove the negative terminal from the battery. 2. Next, you need to move to the driver’s side of the car. 3. Above the gas pedal, find and disconnect the contact chip that is connected to the sensor connector.

4. After that, take a 10mm wrench and unscrew the three fastening nuts. When there is insufficient internal space, it is most convenient to use a socket wrench. 5. Remove the pedal from the special mounting pins. Reinstallation is carried out in a mirror sequence.