Are the brakes frozen? 6 ways to get your car off the ground!


What to do if the handbrake pads are frozen? We are considering ways to get out of the situation on our own.

It would seem that if the brake pads are frozen, the only logical action is to start panicking. Well, how could it be otherwise, if you can’t move from the spot, and there’s also a risk of completely tearing off this part and going straight to the service department. Let's take our time and try to get out of the situation calmly and independently.

First of all, it is worth understanding why this happens. The pads can freeze after the car has been driven through a puddle or been in a car wash. When sub-zero temperatures occur, moisture freezes and the pads become stuck. Depending on which structures are covered in ice, there are several ways to defrost them.

Method 2. Heat from exhaust gases

To do this, you will need a large diameter hose and an appropriate length. One end of the hose is connected to the exhaust pipe, and the other is directed to the inside of the rear wheels.

A hose from an old vacuum cleaner will do. A few minutes and the brakes will warm up - the car will be able to move.

What to do if the pads are frozen on a car with disc brakes

On cars with disc brakes on the rear wheels, the pads very rarely freeze. At the same time, getting to them is much easier. But you still need to act carefully.

Defrost the pads with anti-freeze

This is the most obvious and easiest way. Relatively free access allows you to water the pads with winter washer, a supply of which every driver has in the trunk. Thanks to the alcohol in the composition, it will melt the ice in just a couple of minutes and free the pads.

Instead of anti-freeze, you can use a lock defroster and other product containing alcohol.

Keep in mind that as the alcohol evaporates, a film of oil will likely remain on the pads. Therefore, at first the brake efficiency will be lower.

Method 6. Male

I think there is no need to explain anything here. Many people know how to put out a fire like a pioneer. If the brakes are frozen far from civilization, this is perhaps the only available way to revive them. True, this method is ineffective. The principle itself is important: hot water hits frozen brakes and melts the ice. So if you can boil water in a kettle and pour it over the brake mechanisms, you are guaranteed success. However, it is not advisable to use boiling water.

You need to pour hot water over the drums until the pads come off. At the end of the procedure, it is advisable to dry the rear wheel brakes. Moving briefly with the handbrake slightly tightened will help with this. This technique for drying the brakes is recommended every time after driving through deep puddles and before leaving the car in the parking lot.

Has a similar problem ever happened to you? How did you solve the problem of frozen brakes?

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What to do if the pads are frozen on a car with drum brakes

Under no circumstances try to drive with force to free frozen pads. The engine has plenty of power for this, but you risk tearing off the pad linings or damaging the transmission. It’s better to use one of the proven methods.

Kick the wheels and rock the car

Sometimes even such banal advice can work. If there is not much ice inside the drums, it will easily come off with a few hits on the rear wheels.

The crunch of broken ice will be evidence that everything worked out.

A similar effect can be achieved by rocking the car well from side to side.

Tap the drums with a hammer

This method works flawlessly. Ice is also destroyed by impacts, but not on the wheel, but on the brake drum body, and not with a foot, but with a hammer or other heavy object.

On a car with alloy wheels, you can tap the drums through the spaces between the spokes. If the discs are stamped, then most likely you cannot do without removing the wheels. But first you can try tapping the mounting bolts.

You should not hit it very hard and preferably not directly, but through some kind of spacer like a piece of wood or a wheel wrench, so as not to damage the body.

In most cases, 3-4 confident hits around the perimeter of the drum are enough. As soon as the pads come off, you will immediately understand this by the characteristic sound of crumbling ice.

All that remains is to repeat the procedure for the second wheel.

Warm up the drums with water

In principle, this option is no worse than the previous one. It comes in handy when there are no tools at hand, but there is warm water. Plus, you don't have to remove the wheels.

It is better not to use boiling water to prevent the cases from cracking due to temperature changes. Take hot or even warm water and pour it little by little onto the discs so that it hits the brake drum. The kettle is usually more than enough for both wheels, although it all depends on the situation.

After defrosting, drive off immediately, otherwise the pads may freeze again.

Warm up the drums with air

If you have a sufficiently long hose at hand, you can warm up the pads using the heat of the exhaust gases.

To do this, put on or insert one end of the hose into the muffler, and direct the other into the holes of the discs so that the exhaust gases enter the drum body. Increase the engine speed slightly to speed up the process, and when you hear the characteristic click of the pads being released, repeat the procedure for the second wheel.

Instead of gases, you can use any other heat source except open fire. For example, a hair dryer or an infrared heater.

Let's think

We check that it is the pads that hold you at the start, and not the snow under the wheels and other natural stoppers. After this, if you are sure that these are brake pads, we try to move the pads by raising and lowering the parking brake lever. Let's get going... Did it work? Fine. Did not work out? Let's think further.

Go home and put the kettle on. You can drink some tea yourself and bring it to the car. You heard right. We generously water the rear brake drums with water and try to move off. If it works, leave the kettle in the car and go about your business, not forgetting to dry the pads by braking sharply with the handbrake - this is the easiest way to defrost the pads. Further - only more difficult.

If you feel sorry for boiling water or simply cannot bring it, you need a hose. No, we will not install water pipes from your apartment to your car. We will try to warm the pads with exhaust gases. We put a hose on the exhaust pipe, stock up on nerve cells and an extra hour, and start heating the brakes with the exhaust. The gases are quite warm, but they do not immediately melt ice. Or rather, they melt it, but only for environmentalists. You will have to spend a really long time.

The third method is ideal if you have a different number of cordless power tools, or a car inverter. A heat gun, household hair dryer or torch will help you quickly warm up the car, the main thing is that your hand does not tremble and the paint is not damaged. But this method is really not suitable for everyone. Check if you have a burner. No? That's what we're talking about.

As you well know, in order to quickly destroy something, we need a hammer drill or just a percussion tool. Take a piece of wood, you’ll definitely find it nearby (or you can ask the janitor) and start banging on the drums. Sooner or later the ice will break and you will be able to go on business. At the same time, you will do some exercises. Although, in fact, most motorists do not see the point in this method.

The very last effective way would be to use a banal lock defroster, fortunately you can buy it almost everywhere, but here you will have to lift the car and remove the wheel. You can’t just apply liquid.

When the handbrake cable freezes

Another possible reason for the rear wheel to jam is freezing of the handbrake cable in the tunnel and icing of its open part. In order for the handbrake cable to move freely, it is necessary to clear the cable of ice, treat the cable entry points with defrosting liquid, and then warm these places with a hair dryer.

And in order not to try these methods of wedging brakes on yourself, we advise you to follow a few simple rules:

— if possible, do not put the car on the handbrake at night, but leave it in gear or in “parking”;

— before parking, slow down several times or drive back and forth with sharp braking to dry the brakes (especially if the brakes are drum), we always recommend “drying” the brakes immediately after washing the car and getting into puddles;

— drive the last couple of meters before stopping with the handbrake raised 1-2 clicks;

— during the next service, ask to check the tightness of the handbrake cable jacket and lubricate the cable, or rather, add lubricant to the jacket (you can use simple motor oil). This saves not only from moisture, but also from elementary freezing of the pads, their failure to return to their original position after the handbrake is released under the action of the spring.

Small accessories that will help you: hammer, defrosters, etc.

ManufacturerDetail numberPart nameApplicability*
IBERISIB154005Drum brake pads, IBERIS Chevrolet Daewoo Matiz, set, 4 pcs.Daewoo Matiz
IBERISIB154004Drum brake pads, IBERIS Daewoo Nexia, set, 4 pcs.Daewoo Nexia
IBERISIB154008Drum brake pads, IBERIS Honda CR-V, set, 4 pcs.Honda CR-V
IBERISIB154010Drum brake pads, IBERIS Lada, set, 4 pcs.Lada 2108; 21099; 2109; 2110; 2111; 2112; 1118; 2170
IBERISIB154012Drum brake pads, IBERIS Toyota Corolla VIII, set, 4 pcsToyota Corolla VIII
IBERISIB153013Rear disc brake pads, IBERIS Chevrolet Cruze, set, 4 pcs.Chevrolet Cruze
IBERISIB153020Rear disc brake pads, IBERIS Chevrolet Lacetti, set, 4 pcs.Chevrolet Lacetti
IBERISIB153029Rear disc brake pads, IBERIS Ford Focus II, set, 4 pcs.Ford Focus II
IBERISIB153068Rear disc brake pads, IBERIS Mitsubishi Lancer, set, 4 pcs.Mitsubishi Lancer
IBERISB153112Front disc brake pads with sensor IBERIS VW Tiguan, set, 4 pcsVW Tiguan
KASHIYAMAD6108BRAKE PADS MITSUBISHI LANCER, JEEP, DODGE CALIBERMITSUBISHI LANCER, JEEP, DODGE CALIBER
KASHIYAMAD1261BRAKE PADS NISSAN MICRANISSAN MICRA
KASHIYAMAD1244MBRAKE PADS NISSAN MURANO 3.5 4X4 03/05-NISSAN MURANO
KASHIYAMAD6124BRAKE PADS MITSUBISHI OUTLANDERMITSUBISHI OUTLANDER
KASHIYAMAD2090REAR BRAKE PADS TOYOTA LAND CRUISER/LEXUS 90-TOYOTA LAND CRUISER; LEXUS 90-
NIBKPN0223Deck. brake disk. NiBK PN0223 VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099, Granta, Kalina
NIBKD3027REAR BRAKE PADS MAZDA FAMILIA/PREMACY/LASER/626MAZDA FAMILIA; PREMACY; LASER; 626
NIBKD2270BRAKE PADS TOYOTA CAMRY 06-TOYOTA CAMRY 06-
NIBKPN0537BRAKE PADS REAR MITSUBISHI GRANDIS 2.0/2.4/DI-D 04/04-MITSUBISHI GRANDIS
NIBKD3132REAR BRAKE PADS FORD FOCUS II, MAZDA 3/510/03- FORD FOCUS II; MAZDA 3, 510, 03-

* Please check the applicability of parts specifically for your car with our managers by phone (calls within Russia are free).

Mistakes when pads freeze

The biggest mistake that drivers often make is trying to act sharply in this situation and “rip off” the brake pads by using engine force. In this case, the car owner presses the gas pedal with all his might in the hope that the engine power will help tear off the frozen parts and the ice will collapse.

It is unlikely that you will still be able to resolve the problem this way. But the likelihood of damaging the machine’s mechanisms is quite high.

The consequences of using a forceful method to “break” the pads can be as follows:

  • Possibility of tearing off friction linings, which can lead to jamming of wheel mechanisms.
  • In cars with drum brakes, the brake mechanism mounts become torn.
  • Transmission mechanisms undergo heavy loads, as a result of which they fail. This problem especially concerns clutches and wheel drives.

This forceful method can lead to serious vehicle problems.

What not to do

The stupidest way may be a homemade burner or torch. In the case of rear brakes, you need to remember that there is a fuel tank nearby, and an open fire combined with the close proximity of the fuel tank can give you an unforgettable experience and a beautiful fireworks display for your neighbors. Of course, at your expense.

Why do brake pads freeze?

First of all, you need to understand why brake pads lose mobility and prevent the wheel from rotating freely. There may be two reasons.

  1. The first is the technical condition of the brake system. Pads can jam due to their own defects, defects in the brake drums or discs, or due to faulty brake cylinders.
  2. The second reason is only possible in cold weather: the pads simply freeze to the discs or drums. Typically, both the rear and front pads can freeze .

Most often, the problem occurs with the rear wheels after washing or driving through puddles, followed by long-term parking at negative ambient temperatures.


If the driver does not dry the brakes thoroughly enough and then puts the car on the handbrake, the water remaining on the surface of the pads and discs turns into ice, tightly connecting them.
There is, although to a much lesser extent, the risk that the front pads will freeze. This is possible if they are adjusted incorrectly, when there is too little gap between the pads and discs. It also happens that the driver did not visit the car wash and did not force puddles, but it is still not possible to remove the car from the handbrake. Why? Everything is quite simple: even in severe frost, condensation forms on the surface of the pads and discs, which freezes as the brake mechanism cools, especially if the driver actively uses the brakes. If the driver puts the car on the handbrake, in half an hour he will no longer be able to just drive away.

The handbrake cable is frozen

It’s much worse if the cable running from the controls to the mechanisms freezes. On cars older than 10 years, a situation occurs in which the handbrake cable protection cracks, water gets inside and interferes with its operation in cold weather. Then no matter how much you water the wheels from a bottle, you still won’t be able to remove the blockage. Only thawing or heating with an electric hair dryer will help here. True, in order to get to hard-to-reach places under the bottom of the car, you will have to drive it onto an overpass. And we still have to get there. And here you can’t do without a good master. It will help to disconnect the cable from the pads and unclench them.

Next, we drive the cars into the garages, turn on the hair dryer and methodically pass through all the problem areas of the hanging cable with warm air. If it starts working, then good. Then we coat the cracks with oil to prevent further water from entering. But this is a bad defense option. It is best to replace damaged cables.

The box is frozen

Some drivers, in order to avoid freezing of the brake pads, try not to leave the car on the handbrake overnight. The automatic selector is moved to position P (parking), and the mechanics are simply left in first gear. Indeed, in the vast majority of cases this helps. But this method is also fraught with troubles. Even the slide can freeze, not only on an old, used car, but also on a relatively new car.

If you drive into a deep puddle and scoop up water, it can end up in the distant jungle of the engine compartment and stay there for a long time. In the morning you approach the car, warm up the car, and as soon as you are about to set off, it turns out that it is impossible to move the gearbox selector. This happens not only on cars with manual transmissions, but also on cars with automatic transmissions.

Most often, the cause may be the same cable running from the rocker into the engine compartment to the box. It defrosts much better than the brake one. It is enough to warm up the car for about half an hour, and the heat from the engine will create a warm microclimate inside the engine compartment.

In a manual gearbox, the rocker links themselves freeze and prevent the lever from being released. This trouble cannot be cured by warming up the engine for a long time, since neutral gear is needed, but it cannot be turned on. Therefore, you have to resort to using a hair dryer. However, after unlocking the transmission, it is better to immediately head to a service center, where they will put the car on a lift and help eliminate the cause of water getting into the mechanisms.

How to avoid this problem?

To prevent this situation from happening in the future, you need to remember the following rule. After driving on wet surfaces, press the brake pedal several times. The pads will dry and there will be no moisture left on them, which can freeze in sub-zero temperatures. The best option is not to use the handbrake at all in the cold season. Another tip is to think about the position of the car when parking it. Park the car in such a way that you can start reversing. The rear brakes are much easier to unlock due to the weight of the car.

The best way to get out of an unpleasant situation is to avoid it. Let your winter trips bring only pleasure and not cause problems.

Reasons for the problem

Most often, there is only one reason - leaving the car in the cold for a long time. Freezing of the rear brake pads of a car can occur both on the street and in the garage. Often an indirect cause is high humidity. A film of condensation forms between the brake disc and pad, which creates a dense ice crust.

It is almost impossible to detect such a problem at first glance. Most often it appears while driving, when the rear axle of the car remains locked. It is worth noting that modern cars are more likely to report this problem. One of the brake system indicator lights on the instrument panel will light up. But cars more than 15 years old will not always be able to independently diagnose a malfunction.

We'll tell you what to do if the handbrake or the rear pads to the brake drum of the car are frozen. Traditional methods and an affordable alternative.

Do not confuse two things, frozen parking brake pads and a rusty axle. In the first case, icing occurs in the brake system, which can be easily corrected. If the axle is rusty, you will have to disassemble the wheel and clean or replace individual brake components.

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