A lot of time has passed since AvtoVAZ put on sale a car called Lada Kalina. Advertising and the hope of domestic car enthusiasts for a bright future did their job - every third Russian chose Kalina as a new car. However, the joy of owning a domestic car ends sooner or later.
After just a few months of operation, the Kalina car showed its rather capricious character. And it just so happened that the owners of the Lada Kalina began to disappear more and more often in the garage, once again doing some kind of repair, rather than driving the car. AvtoVAZ engineers are well aware of the shortcomings and childhood diseases, and are doing their best to get rid of them in the next generation in order to increase reliability. However, the result of the improvements is insignificant. The car still cannot please with its endurance and resistance to wear. It’s especially unpleasant when the Kalina doesn’t start at the right moment. And the car owner is forced to start troubleshooting. Let's try to understand the reasons for the car's reluctance to start.
Immobilizer
If the car refuses to start, then this is one of the possible reasons. You can notice problems in the operation of this system yourself. If the corresponding icon blinks on the dashboard and a characteristic beeping sound is heard, then you should read the operating instructions. If the Lada Kalina does not start, the immobilizer is a common problem. The problem is not easy to fix. In the instructions for the car, the manufacturer indicates the decoding of sounds and blinking lights - the car owner needs to count the time between flashes, the number of buzzer signals, and then read what the manufacturer writes about this.
In winter, it often happens that the car starts normally after about the sixth time. In most cases, this problem can be solved by retraining the key - after this procedure, problems with starting should not appear.
Lada Kalina starts poorly and stalls when cold
Car: Lada Kalina, 2008. Asked by: Anonymous. The essence of the question: is it difficult to start when cold?
When cold it starts poorly, once started the revs increase sharply, then it stalls, the check engine light does not come on. When warmed up it works perfect. TPS and IAC replaced.
Mass air flow sensor as a problem area for poor engine starting
Most likely the mass air flow sensor is faulty. If the TPS and IAC are replaced, and you are confident in their performance, then there are no other options. It is best to look at the parameters of the mass air flow sensor when starting on a cold one, which it produces.
Your symptoms are similar to incorrect readings from this particular sensor.
Mass air flow sensor is one of the most expensive sensors in a car.
How and why the immobilizer fails
Let's dwell on this topic in a little more detail. The thing is that the ECU controller on this model is located under the heater radiator. In second-generation models, the controller was moved.
So, if the Kalina does not start, you need to remove the side wall from the left side in the passenger seat and visually check the ECU. The block must be dry. If it is wet, then it is filled with coolant - in this case, it will not be possible to restore the ECU, only replacement will help.
First of all, when exposed to liquid, the output switch burns out. The chip can be re-soldered, but after such repairs the problems will go away for literally two months, and then they will appear again. The heater radiator will need to be replaced. If this problem exists, then experts recommend installing a new controller between the engine compartment partition and the stove.
Now about the immobilizer - in Kalina cars the manufacturer installs APS-6 immobilizers. In very rare cases, these devices fail on their own. Often, the problem is hidden in the wiring or control panel. The key fob body is held together with one self-tapping screw - the screw can be overtightened or undertightened. A crack appears on the remote device chip between the transponder contacts. In this case, if the Kalina does not start, only a spare or training key, or replacing the remote control will help.
Lada Kalina wagon Luta › Logbook › Replacing the ignition switch. Fiddling with keys
Breakdown I left the store with my wife, child and bags of groceries - got into the car and inserted the key - turned the key - something in the lock clanked and the car stopped responding to turning the key in the lock. After the 20th attempt to pick the key in the ignition, the car miraculously started up. But the key could be pulled out and the car would still start. Thanks to Kalina for the fact that, despite the breakdown, she took us home again and again. At home, the car had to be turned off in a barbaric way - to move away by pressing the brake. The car stalled, but the ignition was turned on despite the fact that the key was taken out. In short, some spring in the ignition switch burst and all the modes there were lost. While I was looking for spare parts, I removed the battery terminal and locked the car with the key through the door. (It turned out, by the way, that the passenger door closes with a flag only when it is closed).
Spare parts and tools A DAAZ lock was purchased (with a wire for the immobilizer) + 4 bolts to rip off the heads.
lock with cylinders, red key and key blank with buttons
bolts with shear heads. You need 4 of them
We will also need: 1. Phillips screwdriver 2 chisel and hammer 3 10mm wrench
The repair itself 0. remove the terminal from the battery 1. Remove the steering rack cover. 2. Disconnect the ignition and immobilizer pads
disconnect the immobilizer and ignition terminals in viburnum 3. Use a strong, but short and narrow chisel and hammer. We knock down the bolts tangentially (counterclockwise). They give in pretty quickly if the chisel is good.
unscrew the bolts with a chisel/chisel. Then, either with your fingers or long-nose pliers, unscrew the bolts. 4. We install the lock “in reverse order”, do not forget to connect the wire blocks and put on the casing. We put the battery terminal back on.
5. We put the new key into the new lock. In anticipation... and... AND THE CAR WILL NOT START! Why? Because the immobilizer won’t let you in! What to do: 5.1. Remove the red cap from the new black key and remove the chip from under the cap. We do the same with the old red key. I swap the chips. We use a new key with an old chip - a second old key with a new chip or archive it. Or the old key on a key fob without a chip, and the new chip itself in the archive.
changing 5.2 chips. Changing the tip in a key with buttons changing the tip in a key with buttons on a viburnum
6. In our free time, we try to change the cylinders in the doors and trunks. And before this replacement, we hang the old car key on the key fob (preferably without a new chip, so as not to confuse the immobilizer).
Well now everything should work!
Starter
The immobilizer has been checked and does not give any alarms, but the engine still does not want to start. Another reason for this behavior is the starter. It’s easy to notice a problem with the starter – you won’t hear the characteristic sound of the engine starting. The mechanism simply does not spin, which means the engine will not be able to start. Everything is clear here - you need to remove and check the starter.
If the Kalina does not start, the starter does not turn, then the first reason may be the battery. It may simply be discharged. If the lights in the cabin and on the dashboard are not lit, the driver will be able to immediately notice this. However, it often happens that everything is in order, but the starter still does not work. For diagnostics, turn on the high beams and get out of the car. Dim headlights are due to the battery. It is discharged, but only to a critical level, when there is not enough power to turn the starter.
If the Kalina does not start, the starter does not turn, the best way out of this situation is to charge the battery. But if the headlights are bright in high beam mode and are not going to dim, then you will have to look for the reason elsewhere.
DIY mechanism repair
If the mechanism does not work, it must be removed. To do this, you need an open-end wrench set to “13”.
The removal procedure consists of the following steps:
- First, remove the negative terminal from the battery.
- Then we dismantle the air filter.
- Next, disconnect the traction relay control wire.
- Now you need to disconnect the power cable. To do this, move away the protective rubber cap, under which there is a positive wire.
- Then unscrew the nut that secures the power cable.
- Disconnect this wire, as well as the wire located nearby.
- Next, unscrew the nuts with a “13” wrench that secure the starter. Two are located on top, and the third can be felt with your hand below.
- After unscrewing all the nuts, you can remove the device from the studs.
Starter or wiring problems
You can use a multimeter to test the wiring. The red wire is connected to the starter contact, the black wire to ground. In a normal situation, the device will show from 12.5 to 14.5 V. If the reading is less or even zero, then there is something wrong with the wiring.
The first step is to clean the contacts, check the integrity of the wires and fuses.
If the check shows that there is current, then the starter will have to be replaced. If the latter makes clicks but does not rotate, then the starter motor has failed. If everything is the other way around, then the problem is with the retractor coil.
Signs of IAC malfunction
Among the signs that directly or indirectly indicate incorrect operation of the idle speed sensor are the following:
- the engine does not start well - it becomes impossible to start the engine without pressing the gas pedal;
- when switching to neutral gear, “dips” in speed and their instability are observed;
- when changing gears, the speed drops or the engine stalls completely;
- the engine does not warm up well at low temperatures, since increased speeds (1500 rpm) are not reached;
- after turning on energy consumers (high beams, heater, air conditioner), the speed begins to “sag” or “float”;
- The engine spontaneously increases and decreases speed.
The IAC cannot be repaired; the device must be replaced. Before changing the idle air regulator, it is advisable to flush the throttle assembly.
How to check the regulator
There are a lot of ways to diagnose ICC. The most effective and simple methods for checking the Kalina idle speed control:
- Routine IAC testing for performance. To do this, the device must be removed from the throttle assembly and the terminal block connected if it was disconnected for dismantling. After this you need to start the engine. At the moment of startup, the needle of a working device should extend. If this is not observed, the regulator is broken.
- Checking the supply of the required voltage to the sensor. You need to disconnect the terminal block from the IAC and connect a voltmeter to the terminals. After this, one person turns on the ignition, and the second measures the resistance at all terminals of the block. If there are no faults, the voltmeter reading should be approximately 50 ohms. The voltage should be at 12 V. If it is significantly less, this indicates a battery malfunction or an electrical circuit break in one of the sections.
- Measuring the resistance of the internal and external windings of the regulator. To do this you need to use a multimeter. The measurement results should not be lower than 40 Ohms and higher than 80 Ohms. If you deviate from the specified range, the idle air control must be changed.
ECU
This is another popular problem when Kalina does not start. ECUs are the “brains” of the car; they themselves are quite reliable, and if you don’t touch them, then no problems will happen. However, most often the ECU is flooded.
This often happens when antifreeze leaks. This has already been discussed in the section on the immobilizer. When installing an alarm system or when pulling car wires, they forget to install the plugs - water gets into the ECU. Repairing an electronic unit is a futile task.
In the new generation, this problem was solved, and now the ECU is located in a different location. However, now another problem has appeared - if the drain hole, which is located next to the cabin filter, is clogged, then water can enter the computer through the holes.
Spark plug
If everything is in order with the electronic filling, you should look for the problem in the candles. Often, and especially in winter, spark plugs flood.
Compression in the engine in cold weather does not meet the standards, so the engine may not start immediately. Often flooding of spark plugs occurs due to a discharged battery, which is unable to produce a normal spark. If not, the reasons may also be in the wiring or the spark plugs themselves. The easiest way to dry the spark plugs is to press the gas to the floor and crank the engine with the starter two or more times. Often, after this the car will start. If this does not help, then for more thorough drying you should dismantle the spark plugs, then clean them, check the gap, and then dry them with a hairdryer or in the oven.
Summarizing
It is advisable that the starter spins the engine crankshaft during an attempt to start it for no more than 10 seconds, then the device must be given a minute pause. Failure to comply with this rule will, at best, lead to a discharge of the power source, and at worst, it will completely disable the starter. Only replacing it can save the situation, since not every auto electrician will undertake the task of rewinding burnt windings, since it is not always possible to perform this procedure efficiently. In addition, the cost of this service is comparable to the cost of a new element.
Source
Gasoline pump
The vagaries of the fuel pump are often observed, especially in winter. The starter works, but the Kalina car refuses to start, the fuel pump cannot be heard, and an exclamation mark may flash on the dashboard.
First of all, check the pressure in the fuel system. To do this, open the hood and look for the cap on the ramp with the injectors. You can see the nipple there - if you press it, fuel should spray out. If it splashes, then the problem is not with the fuel pump.
Another reason is the relay. There is a cover in the transmission tunnel on the passenger side. It contains power coils. To eliminate the malfunction, just knock or warm them up.
If the fuel pump does not work, then you need to get to it and check the voltage. If the multimeter shows about 12 V, then the fuel pump is working. If not, then it is worth checking the fuses, as well as the relays.
IAC cleaning
Do-it-yourself troubleshooting of the idle air regulator consists of simply washing it to remove carbon deposits. To do this you need to follow the instructions:
- disconnect the wire plug from the sensor;
- Unscrew the two fastening screws with a small shaped screwdriver and remove the sensor from the mounting socket;
- Clean the needle cone using WD-40 or carburetor cleaner.
The same means can be used to wipe the regulator contacts and the entire throttle assembly.
After cleaning, the IAC is installed back. In this case, you need to measure the distance from the end of the needle to the body - it should be approximately 2.3 cm.
Won't start when warmed up
Owners also often complain that Kalina is not. The most common reasons for this behavior are problems with the coolant temperature sensor.
It may send the wrong signal, resulting in fuel being delivered incorrectly. Fuel injectors also become depressurized. As a result, the fuel mixture becomes over-rich. The injectors need to be replaced or cleaned.
These are all the reasons why the Lada Kalina refuses to start.
