How to balance a wheel at home

What is wheel balancing

If all the other shafts and rotating parts work in a closed volume and they absolutely do not care what happens outside the crankcase, block or housing, then the wheels have a hard time. Even if the tire and disk assembly are perfectly balanced, during operation anything can happen to them, from deformation to the accumulation of dirt. All this affects the balancing of the wheel. What is this, balancing?

Balancing a car wheel is all about eliminating radial mass differences. That is, if the wheel is lighter on one side and heavier on the other, then it will vibrate when rotating. The higher the rotation speed, the greater the vibration.

Why is balancing needed?

The balance of the wheel depends entirely on the tire of the car, since this process is influenced by the most distant parts of the assembly. The imbalance of the wheel becomes more serious the faster its speed. Due to vibration, chassis elements begin to fail and rubber wears out.

Manufacturers of wheel parts (rims, tires) are not able to make them perfectly balanced, because fractions of a millimeter or gram still differ in any part. During further operation, natural wear of the rubber and minor damage to the wheel rims occurs, thus, the need for balancing arises.

Why and how often to do balancing

Needless to say, constant vibration on the steering wheel even at the lowest speeds is simply unacceptable. Wheel imbalance leads to:

deterioration of wheel adhesion to the road;
rapid wear of tires, chassis and car suspension;
a sharp deterioration in controllability;
deterioration of the brake system.

Wheels are balanced if necessary, when vibrations occur, as well as after replacing tires, after repairing them and vulcanizing the tubes, after straightening or rolling out steel wheels.

In addition to safety, reduced service life and high fuel consumption, wheel imbalance does not bring much comfort to the car interior. Therefore, balancing wheels with your own hands should become a habitual procedure for every motorist. At least in order to understand how and how this is done.

When do you need to balance your wheels?

Speaking about the frequency of such a procedure, it should be noted that not even an experienced service station employee will answer the question of how often this should be done on your car. And all because it is very individual, it depends on driving style, frequency of tire changes and many other factors. But to the questions whether you need to balance your wheels every season and whether you need balancing when changing wheels, you will receive a clear positive answer.

However, for some reason, many car owners ignore the recommendations of a car mechanic. It is a mistaken belief that only new wheels or after beading should be balanced. But if they were balanced last season, then removed for the season and simply stored somewhere in the garage, then they can be installed for the next season and driven like that. They forget that balancing is needed both after storage and after a certain mileage.

If we talk about certain rules, then you need to balance after installing the tire on the rim, and then after 500 km. After all, no matter how well your wheel is made, shrinkage will still occur at first, the tire will fall into place, shifting somewhere and causing an imbalance.

In addition, manufacturers recommend carrying it out periodically, at least every 15 thousand kilometers, and on our roads it can be done more often. It is also worth visiting a service station after falling into a large hole, before and after a long trip (from 2,000 km). This procedure will not hurt fans of extreme driving; it is recommended for them to do it at least every 7 thousand km.

Types of imbalance

And in order to understand the methods of balancing, you need to know the enemy in person, that is, imbalance. Taking into account the simple laws of physics, one can guess that imbalance can be of two types - dynamic and static.

Static imbalance occurs when the wheel's center of gravity moves away from the axis of rotation. The simplest type of imbalance and do-it-yourself wheel balancing is most often aimed at eliminating static imbalance. The wheel vibrates up/down.
Dynamic imbalance is the case when it can only be caught when the wheel rotates, and at fairly high speeds, close to operating conditions. This type of imbalance is characterized by a displacement of the center of gravity of the wheel not only beyond the axis of rotation, but also by an uneven displacement of several centers of gravity relative to each other in a perpendicular plane. The wheel wobbles and vibrates. The diagram will explain this more simply.

It turns out that it is not for nothing that every tire shop has stands for wheel balancing, since any vulcanization is, although minimal, a shift in the center of gravity of the entire wheel, which must be balanced. The cost of balancing wheels on a machine is pennies, but if it is not done, the consequences can be the most depressing.

How to check if wheels need balancing?

In most cases, it is not difficult to understand that you should visit a service station for balancing. When there is a difference in centrifugal forces, when the speed increases, discomfort in driving appears, road grip deteriorates and braking efficiency decreases. It is also worth considering visiting a tire shop if the tire wear shows unevenness, and at the same time you are not a supporter of extreme driving.

There is another way to check whether wheel balancing is needed. To do this, just lift the car with a jack so that it can rotate freely and twist it. Then, after stopping, the lowest point is indicated with chalk. This procedure should be repeated many times. If the marks are scattered chaotically, then everything is fine with the wheel. But if you are focused on one or several areas, then it’s time for tire fitting.

DIY wheel balancing technology

The simplest and most accessible method of static balancing is available to anyone who is able to hang a car on a jack. Moreover, it is recommended to check wheel balancing after each wheel replacement, regardless of whether it has been balanced before or not. And it couldn’t be easier to do this.

The car is hung on a jack, after which one of the wheels should rotate freely on the hub.
The wheel spins slightly, if the brake pads are in the way, you need to negotiate with them so that they do not prevent the wheel from rotating completely freely. The same goes for the wheel bearing. Sometimes it becomes necessary to let it go, and after balancing, do not forget to tighten it again.
The wheel rotates freely in one direction, and the place that will be at the bottom is marked with chalk. The wheel spins in the other direction. The corresponding mark is placed again. And so - several times. If the marks never coincide, the wheel does not need static balancing.
Otherwise, a weight is installed on the side of the wheel diametrically opposite the mark. The mass of the weight is selected empirically, since the exact weight of the weight cannot be determined by eye. Only a tire balancing stand can do this.

Where to find the sensor in a car

If we are talking about used models, then the prices here are much more affordable. But it’s not very easy to understand which car is 100% high quality and worthy of the stated price.

In this case, you will have to regularly visit the service station, purchase certain spare parts, and carry out repair work. There is practically no pleasure from using such a vehicle, but there are “full of worries.”

That is why, if you decide to turn to the secondary automotive market, you need a reliable friend and assistant. We are talking about cooperation with a company that deals with auto selection.

Then they will offer them to you after checking them first. We draw your attention to the fact that professionals perform several levels of verification.

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Initially, they determine the integrity of the structure and the quality of individual components. Next, the documents are carefully studied. At the stage of completing the purchase, it is necessary to correctly complete all the steps - re-registration in the MREO, execution of purchase and sale documents, and so on.

What is imbalance

Imbalance is a violation of the distribution of mass of the wheel assembly relative to its horizontal and vertical axis. It can be caused by tire wear or disc damage. Imbalance can be of two types: static and dynamic.

In the first case, the rotational axis of the wheel shifts relative to the axis of inertia, thereby shifting its center of gravity up or down. If you jack up a car and spin a wheel that is subject to static imbalance, then before stopping, it usually makes several movements, in one direction and the other, reminiscent of the movement of a damping pendulum. In all subsequent cases it will stop in the same way, with the heaviest part of the wheel always at the bottom.

Static imbalance is not as dangerous as dynamic imbalance, and, as a rule, at first it can only lead to rapid tire wear. But if the situation is not corrected in a timely manner, it can cause dynamic disease, which is much more dangerous.

An imbalance of the dynamic type is characterized by the intersection of the axis of rotation with the axis of inertia, which disrupts the distribution of the wheel mass not vertically, but horizontally, causing the disk to write a “figure eight”.

Why is balancing needed and what is its essence?

During movement, several forces act on a car wheel at once, evenly distributed along its circumference. Even the slightest flaw associated with their distribution will inevitably lead to wheel imbalance and the occurrence of vibration processes in the wheel bearing. For example, with an imbalance of 15 g at a car speed of 100 km/h, the additional load on the wheel hub will be equivalent to hitting it with a three-kilogram sledgehammer 13 times per second.

The task of balancing is to return the wheel to its normal balance, in which it will rotate normally. This is achieved by means of lead weights, specially placed on the wheel rim. The result of balancing should be the most uniform distribution of the wheel mass relative to its axles.

What is balancing and what technical means are needed to perform it?

In order to balance the wheel, the driver needs to go to a tire service station.

This cannot be done without the outside participation of a professional and special equipment. Each car service station offering such services must have the following tools available:

The main equipment is a special semi-automatic or automatic balancing machine, on which the wheel is fixed, rotated, and the device automatically reads the indicators of uneven mass distribution.

So, the wheel is put on a special pin, after which it is accelerated by the device to a certain speed and, while in motion for 10 seconds, is automatically stopped by the brakes.

Next, a special dialog box on the screen shows which side of the wheel there are problems with, and by carefully scrolling it manually along the axis, the technician determines the position of the defect along the circumference.

Electronic ruler, which is used to determine the position of the load along the width of the wheel.
Calipers, with the help of which the positioning of uniformity on both sides of the wheel is determined.
A set of lead hammer weights for setting the balance on the outside of the product.
The same set of self-adhesive weights to impart mass uniformity from the inside of the wheel rim. Each of the weights must contain a stamp that indicates its mass. As a rule, products from 5 to 50 grams are used for passenger cars; for balancing truck wheels, such values are significantly higher.
Degreaser for better adhesion of adhesive weights to the surface of a steel rim.
Use a rag so that you have something to rub the degreaser on the metal.
A metal brush for cleaning the wheel from road dirt and dust before starting the procedure.

Important!

All balancing consumables must be updated regularly. The unevenness of the masses can be different and the master always needs to have the entire line of these materials on hand.

Self-adhesive inner weights

What you need to do your own balancing

In order to carry out balancing at home you will need:

car jack;
set of wrenches;
a piece of chalk or marker;
set of balancing weights;
small hammer.

Weights can be purchased at any auto store or car market. They come in two types: stuffed and adhesive. The first type is most often used for alloy wheels. Stuffed weights have a special bracket with which they are attached to the edge of the rim by stuffing. They hold firmly and rarely fall off.

We balance the wheels ourselves

We place the car on a level surface and secure it with boots or improvised means. Using a jack, we lift the car body from the side of the wheel that we plan to balance. If this is one of the drive wheels, turn off the gear so that it can rotate freely. If the wheel rotates with force, you need to unscrew and slightly unscrew the hub nut. After this, we remove old weights from the disk, if they are there. In addition, you will need to lower the pressure in the tire by bleeding the air, and also remove dirt and stones stuck in the tread.

Now you can start balancing. To do this, turn the wheel counterclockwise by hand and wait for it to stop. After stopping completely, use chalk to make a vertical mark on the top sidewall of the tire. Next, in the same way, rotate the wheel clockwise, wait until it freezes, and again mark the top position with chalk. Now we need to measure the distance between our marks and find the middle. This is the lightest point of the wheel, which we will need to weigh down with weights.

Using a hammer, we hammer weights onto the edges of the rim in the places that we marked with chalk. To begin with, you can take 10-15 g weights. Spin the wheel and wait for it to stop.

The loads should be at the bottom. If this does not happen, then their weight is too low. We remove the weights and put in their place heavier ones, for example, 30 g each. Spin the wheel. If the loads end up at the bottom after it stops, they will need to be moved slightly in opposite directions, moving along the edge of the disk. By rotating the disk and spreading the weights, it is necessary to ensure that the wheel stops in different positions each time. This will indicate that we have distributed the weight of the wheel relative to the axis of inertia as evenly as possible, i.e. statically balanced.

Wheel balancing is an important procedure, the timeliness of which determines the comfort and safety of passengers. If the wheels are unbalanced, driving vibrations will be transmitted to the steering wheel when the speed reaches approximately 60 kilometers per hour.

How to properly balance wheels on alloy wheels

Every car enthusiast should remember that the wheel balancing procedure is a very important point in car maintenance, despite its simplicity.

When assembling wheels, balancing (of course, if done correctly) is a guarantee that you will be spared the consequences of steering wheel beating at high speed. And the consequences of the steering wheel beating if there is a wheel imbalance can be quite sad: in addition to the steering gradually breaking down, shock absorbers, wheel bearings and other suspension parts can also fail. All this happens due to vibration, which spreads throughout the car body if the wheel is unbalanced. But the main danger lies not even in this, but in the fact that the overall controllability of the car becomes significantly worse and, as a result, the process of movement itself becomes more dangerous. That is why you should pay special attention to quality - both the balancing of your car’s wheels and the quality of the wheels and tires used.

How often is balancing necessary?

Why it is necessary to balance wheels, we have already figured out. Now let's find out how often your car needs wheel balancing. In general, if you use “all-season” tires, then you should have your wheels balanced at least once a year. However, there are additional clarifications. Firstly, it is necessary to balance the wheels when assembling the wheel onto the tire. Secondly, after the first “knurled” 500 kilometers after installing new tires on the rim. And thirdly, after a suspension breakdown. In general, it should be remembered that the balance of the wheel is upset both due to wear of the rubber and when the shape of the disk changes (for example, when the disk is deformed when it falls into a hole) - in these cases, wheel balancing is also necessary.

Types of wheel imbalance.

Wheel imbalance is usually divided into two types: static and dynamic. Both of these types of imbalance imply a mismatch of two axes - the axis of rotation and the axis of inertia, passing through the center of gravity of each wheel.

If we talk about static imbalance, then in this case the axis of rotation becomes parallel to the axis of inertia and, as a result, the center of gravity of the wheel ceases to be on the axis of rotation. This is due to the fact that the total mass of the wheel is distributed unevenly along its circumference. To visually verify that you are dealing with a static imbalance, you can put a wheel on a freely spinning axle and observe its “behavior.” The wheel will make several pendulum movements and eventually stop when its center of gravity reaches its lowest point. As for dynamic imbalance, its occurrence is associated with a mismatch between the axis of inertia and the axis of rotation. In this case, the center of gravity of the wheel is still located on the axis of rotation (as opposed to static imbalance), but both axes intersect at some angle. Simply put, the weight of the wheel here is incorrectly distributed across the width, and not along the length, as in the first case. Dynamic imbalance can be diagnosed exclusively during the rotation of the wheel, and it is most often eliminated by installing compensating weights in certain places on both sides of the rim of the disk.

It is clear that ideal wheels do not yet exist in nature, and the overall quality of a wheel depends on the quality of its components - tire and disk. This is why there are ranges of acceptable imbalance. On the territory of the Russian Federation, the values of such tolerances are described by GOST 4754-97. In addition to the values of static imbalance, this GOST specifies the masses of weights that compensate for dynamic imbalance, as well as the maximum permissible wheel runout values.

Balancing process and types of loads.

To balance a wheel, it is placed on a balancing machine, where it is spun and centered using a special cone. Then the master sets the wheel parameters in the wheel balancing stand. After this, data appears on the monitor screen about where exactly on the left and right you need to install the balancing weights and what mass they should be.

Weights for balancing wheels are used in various types - it depends on the type of wheel rims. For example, for cast and stamped disks, padded weights (with a bracket) are used. In addition, there are so-called universal - adhesive - weights, which are usually glued to the inside of the wheel rim. Such weights are used, among other things, to preserve the aesthetics and “beauty” of the disc itself. There are many comparative characteristics of padded and adhesive weights for wheel balancing. They all focus on the benefits of rammed loads – especially in winter. This is due to the fact that in winter the wheel is exposed to frequent temperature changes, which ultimately leads to a weakening of the holding power of the adhesive tape and, accordingly, the load may fall off - such cases are not uncommon when washing wheels under pressure. However, some types of disks are simply not designed for the installation of padded weights and therefore, willy-nilly, they have to be balanced with adhesive weights.

Signs of quality balancing.

So, balancing weights can be installed in two versions: only on the inner side, or on both the inner and outer sides of the disk. The reason for the lack of weight on the front of the wheel rim may be either the reluctance of the owner (so as not to disturb the aesthetics), or the technical impossibility of this type of wheel balancing. If the weight when balancing is installed only on the inside of the disk, then it should be located closest to the outside - as a rule, near the very spokes. By the way, there is an option for balancing a wheel with just one weight, but this technology is quite complex and is used in extremely rare cases.

All loads that make up the required weight must be located nearby. Their total weight should not exceed 60 grams if balancing is carried out on a new wheel equipped with a new disk. If the weight of the weights exceeds the required 60 grams, it is necessary to check that the wheel is assembled correctly. To do this, you need to make sure that the yellow mark on the tire matches the valve. If the mark matches, but the weight of the loads still exceeds 60 grams, you need to inspect the wheel more carefully to find the reasons why correct balancing is impossible. Such a reason could be, for example, a deformed disk or a tire that has become caked and lost its shape. When the balancing process is completed and the wheel has already been removed from the balancing machine, take your time and ask the technician to reattach the wheel and check the imbalance indicators again, as they may change. The permissible spread of parameters during reinstallation may vary, depending on the type of disk. For example, for wheels with steel rims, this error can be up to 5 grams on both sides. If the wheels are light alloy, then even less - only 3 grams on both sides. In principle, the influence of the error is the more strongly reflected in the quality of balancing, the heavier and larger in diameter the wheels being balanced.

Final wheel balancing.

Continuing the topic of the quality of wheel balancing, one cannot fail to mention the so-called “finish” balancing, which is used in some tire centers. Sometimes it is even considered as an optimal alternative to the usual balancing on machines (stands) - however, this is wrong. Wheel balancing equipment in this case is a device designed to statically balance the entire assembly - that is, the hub, wheel and brake disc. At the same time, the maximum permissible weight of the load to correct the imbalance of this unit is only 15 grams. When planning to send your car for final wheel balancing, you must remember that the wheels in this case should already be balanced by the “classical” method. Finish balancing is simply the “finishing touch” to enhance and maintain the quality of regular balancing. In addition, sometimes final balancing may simply not be necessary for the wheels of your car - for example, if Havek adapters were used during the previous balancing.

The main mistakes when balancing.

Now let's discuss the most common mistakes that sometimes occur when balancing wheels. The first in a series of such mistakes is balancing a tire or wheel covered with a layer of dirt. Obviously, the weight of this dirt, one way or another, affects the balance of the wheel. That is, after balancing, the dirt will fall off or be washed away, and the wheel will again be unbalanced. This also includes installing adhesive weights on the contaminated surface of the disk - in this case, during movement, the weights are much more likely to come off than if they were installed on a clean disk.

The second main mistake tire mechanics make is installing new weights without removing the old ones. Yes, unfortunately, such cases do occur. Next comes the problem of the correct “fit” of the tire on the rim. Sometimes, when installing a tire, technicians do not sufficiently lubricate its bead with a special solution - or even completely “forget” about lubrication. In this case, the tire, due to internal air pressure, does not “fit” correctly onto the rim. It should be remembered that if tire fitters prove to you that the tire is of poor quality or old and therefore does not balance, it is quite possible that the problem is precisely its improper fit. This situation is usually complicated by the fact that from the outside of the wheel it is almost impossible to determine what the problem actually is. In such cases, raising the pressure in the tire usually helps - then it becomes clear “who is to blame” - the tire or the mechanics. By the way, recently some of the most “civilized” tire centers have begun to use the latest balancing machines, popularly dubbed “3D tire fitting.” This equipment performs laser diagnostics, with the help of which the extremely accurate geometry of both the entire wheel as a whole and an individual disk in particular is determined (and runout is also diagnosed). Thus, it becomes possible to “fit” the tire onto the disk as accurately as possible, so that the tire and disk mutually compensate for their imbalances most effectively. Of course, such equipment is quite expensive, and therefore it is not yet possible to find it everywhere - except perhaps in tire centers in large cities.

If the weight of the weights for balancing the wheels exceeds the permissible norms (for example, more than 60 grams for a passenger car), then it would be a good idea to seat the tire completely on the rim and rotate it along the rim. In most cases, this method can help reduce the weight of cargo. It is also worth remembering that some manufacturers put a colored mark on the tire, thus indicating its lightest point. During installation, this mark must be placed near the nipple. If you follow this simple rule, you can use a much smaller number of balancing weights. And one more important point - immediately pay attention to how the weights are installed after balancing. If they are located far enough from one another on one side of the rim, then you are dealing with a balancing error. The correct location of the weights is in a heap on each side of the disc. In addition, be sure to check whether the balancing weights are clinging to any suspension parts or brake mechanisms - such cases are also not uncommon and are also a mistake made by tire service workers.

15 MISTAKES IN TIRE INSTALLATION

Spring is truly coming into its own, and the time has come for motorists to change into summer tires. Today we’ll talk about the most common and dangerous mistakes made by tire fitters, which you need to pay attention to in order to prevent them and decide whether to come to this workshop next time or not. Experts from the RUBICON-S company, the official representative of Snap-On (John Bean, Hofmann), an installer and adjuster of equipment for car service centers, a supplier of tools and consumables for tire fitting, will help us understand these issues.

A tire fitter lifts a car with one jack.

Some “clowns” manage to save time, especially often on “fours” and “spots”, to unscrew three wheels at once, lifting the car with one powerful jack. At the same time, the body of a new car can be severely deformed, and in the best case, the doors will not close well, and in the worst case, due to changes in geometry, the car will significantly lose controllability and safety. In the right workshops, cars are re-shoeed on lifts. As a last resort, in normal “garage” workshops they lift each side under the side members with two rolling jacks.

Doesn't sign tires

You come to a tire shop, they remove your wheels or throw off your tires and do not sign which one was installed in which place. This is one of the most serious and common mistakes, because in the future the wheels must fall into place or, if they are worn out, be rearranged in a certain way.

The most common scheme is to swap front and rear. The second technique is to put the front wheels back, and cross the rear wheels and put them forward. And the third option is to swap all the wheels crosswise. By the way, recently tire manufacturers, for example, MICHELIN, have come to the conclusion that on modern cars with their suspension design and wheel alignment adjustment features, such rearrangements are meaningless and unsafe, because they disturb the “used-in” contact spots of the tires with the road. Thus, savings conflict with safety, and manufacturers recommend putting the tires back in their place. Therefore, it is very important that the tires are always signed.

Doesn't wash wheels and tires

This is a very serious mistake by crooked tire fitters. Despite the seeming unimportance of this operation, dirty tires and wheels cannot be balanced correctly, because even 10 grams of dirt on a disk or pebbles in the tire tread, which is invisible at first glance, will lead to incorrect balancing, steering wheel beating at a speed of 100 km/h and breaking of suspension components.

4. Does not use nylon protective pads on the machine

Sometimes the price of wheels and tires can exceed the cost of a tire shop. Therefore, in the right tire service, in order not to “punch” expensive wheels and damage the rubber during installation and dismantling, they use special nylon pads on the presser feet of the machine, pry bars, and even on the heads of wrenches. By the way, the most common “stampings” in places where there are “knots” also begin to rust.

Doesn't use tire paste

Many unfortunate tire fitters, for the sake of imaginary savings, like to boil a soap solution instead of tire paste, or, even worse, use “working off” to facilitate the installation of rubber. The paste is needed to lubricate the tire when seating it on the rim. It, unlike soap solution, also works as a sealant and has anti-corrosion properties. It takes some time to dry and set. Therefore, after changing shoes, it is recommended not to accelerate too much for several days, otherwise if there is a lot of “stupidity” under the hood and in your head, you can easily rotate the tire on the rim and kill the balancing. By the way, the “working off” does not dry out at all and corrodes the rubber.

Does not pay attention to the color markings of tires

One of the main mistakes tire fitters make is misaligning the color marks on the tires and wheels. Manufacturers of tires, including motorcycle tires, mark the point of maximum centrifugal force of the tire with a red mark and recommend combining it with the minimum radius of the disk (usually this place on the disk is marked with a white dot). The yellow mark indicates the lightest spot on the tire and, in the absence of a red mark, should be aligned with the heaviest spot on the rim. There is a myth that the yellow mark on the tire must be aligned with the valve on the rim. But the nipple installation location does not necessarily have to be the hardest. It can be determined by spinning a washed, empty rim with a nipple, but without tires and weights, on a balancing machine and noting the place where the machine suggests hanging the weight. Diametrically opposite this point will be the heaviest place on the disk, and it is with this point that the yellow mark on the tire needs to be aligned. This is the only way to achieve the best balance and get by with a minimum of weights when balancing. Many tire fitters have no idea what these dots represent.

When installed on a disk, the tire is poorly inflated and does not sit down

In order for the tire to fit well on the rim, it needs to be inflated quite high. At least up to 3 atmospheres, sometimes up to three and a half. Otherwise, the tire sits down only later while driving, and this hurts your nerves. And, of course, to easily fit the tire onto the rim, you must use tire mounting paste.

8. Inflates the wrong tire pressure

Many tire fitters, without particularly bothering, stupidly pump the “two” to all wheels. In fact, the pressure in the front and rear wheels is usually different. It is determined by the design of the car and depends on the load (if the car is loaded, pump up the wheels, and vice versa). The tire inflation pattern is usually indicated on the nameplate at the ends of the doors or on the gas tank flap.

You need to inflate exactly as recommended by the car manufacturer. If you don't inflate enough, the rubber will wear out a lot at the edges. If you over-pump, the center will wear off. This affects handling, braking and tire durability. And most importantly - for your safety!

No good tire repairman will let a customer go without checking the pressure in all tires, even if only one wheel was repaired.

The balancing machine is not secured to the solid base

A very serious mistake made by tire shops is the incorrect location of the balancing machine, when it often just stands in a trailer on a wooden floor. The balancing machine must be securely secured with anchor bolts on a horizontal, flat and solid (concrete) surface. Any vibrations must be excluded. Otherwise, normal wheel balancing is simply impossible. For the same reason, balancing done at mobile tire stations is practically useless.

Does not calibrate balancing equipment

According to the regulations, the balancing machine must be calibrated several times a season. Of course, in most poor workshops they often don’t bother with this procedure. Moreover, many expensive machines do not allow you to do the calibration yourself and you need to call a specialist and pay for his services.

Poor adhesion of balancing weights

Balancing weights are usually glued to alloy wheels. In order for the load to hold well on the disk and not fall off due to vibrations or, for example, in a car wash under a Karcher stream, the disk and the load itself must be carefully prepared. Before gluing the load, the surface of the disk in the place of gluing must be degreased with a not very aggressive solvent (it is assumed that the disk has already been cleanly washed from dirt) and it is advisable to warm up the place of gluing and the weight itself with a hair dryer. Only in this case the load will stick “tightly” and will not fall off at the very first wash. By the way, pay attention: there are a lot of loose weights lying around at self-service car washes.

Does not achieve balancing “at zero”

In a hurry or out of laziness, a tire fitter can convince you that this will do: “5 grams of imbalance is not felt.” Considering that when installing a wheel on a car, the imbalance will increase even more, you must always ensure that, as a result of balancing, the machine shows all zeros on the outside and inside. You may have to peel off and move the weights. You may have to disassemble and clean the inside of the disk and tire (it happens that there is dirt or water inside the wheel). The disk may be crooked and will have to be “rolled”, but errors should always be kept to a minimum. Because even 5 grams of imbalance at high speeds will lead to steering wheel wobble, decreased controllability and rapid failure of suspension parts.

13. Screws the wheels with a wrench

This is one of the most common and harmful mistakes because it saves the tire fitter time and effort, although to the detriment of your safety. A wrench can easily strip the threads of studs, nuts and bolts, which could cost you your life. In addition, if over-tightened, the seat on the disk may become bent, and this will lead to imbalance and wheel runout.

Even with the most minimal force, the impact wrench usually “hammers” a bolt or nut with a large constriction. And you simply cannot unscrew the wheel with a wheel wrench in the field. Only in very advanced tire centers are special impact wrenches designed and adjusted to the minimum force, so that you can then tighten the nuts with a torque wrench to the required torque. Proper tire fitters use a wrench to unscrew the nuts.

14. Tightens the bolts or nuts on the wheel in a circle

When the nuts are tightened in such a way (in a circle), the alignment of the wheel relative to the hub is disrupted, which can lead to severe imbalance and runout of the wheel. And therefore the load on the hub, suspension parts and your nerves. Therefore, in order not to disturb the alignment, be sure to tighten the bolts or nuts crosswise.

He does not use a torque wrench, but tightens the nuts with uneven force “by eye”

This is also a common mistake when, when installing a wheel, the nuts are tightened manually with force, “relying on your experience,” or worse, with a wrench. Considering that the rim is relatively soft, uneven tightening can lead to slight bending and imbalance. To properly tighten wheel bolts or nuts, there is a torque wrench. Only they can tighten the nut with the required force, which is different for each machine, calculated by the manufacturer and indicated in the manual.

In addition, the size of a standard wheel wrench in your trunk is not a mockery for saving space. It is designed exactly so that you can kneel down and use your hands (without putting a pipe on the key or jumping on it with your feet) to tighten the wheel nuts with the required force. Even a girl can cope with this. And, accordingly, you can unscrew the wheel in the field with a standard “bolt”, provided that it is tightened at the tire shop with a torque wrench with the force required for your car.

And, finally, advice to you, dear car owners

Every season, when changing tires, immediately check the wheel alignment. Our climate and our roads are very conducive to maintaining the correct adjustments. And don’t wait for hot days when “tinsmith’s day” comes and the roasted rooster starts pecking in one place. On days like these, even in the most correct tire service centers, the most qualified installers may make mistakes in “parking”, which can cost you your nerves and health. Take care of yourself! Change your car's shoes in advance.

Sometimes you can come across such a statement that balancing alloy wheels is more difficult. Moreover, this opinion is based on the fact that a cast disk has a greater natural imbalance. And the reason for this natural imbalance is that the cast material has a different structure density. Let us say right away that such a statement is a myth.

It is clear that the structure of the metal may be different, but not so much that balancing cast wheels becomes problematic. All operations are performed as usual on conventional balancing machines. It’s just that the method of attaching the balancing weights is slightly different. The location where the balancing weights are attached may also differ.

Why do you need wheel balancing?

A lot depends on proper wheel balancing. Vehicle speeds are increasing, so a significant wheel imbalance affects not only the occurrence of vibrations, which are transmitted to many parts and components of the car, but also overall traffic safety.

If you imagine a rotating wheel and calculate how much the runout can increase in the case of an imbalance of 10-20 grams, you can see large numbers. And an imbalance, even on such a seemingly insignificant scale, is expressed in significant loads that arise as a result of unbalanced rotation.

If the wheels are not balanced, vibrations will begin to be felt in the steering wheel. But this is, so to speak, the external side of the process. Wheel runout causes uneven wear of the tires. The tires begin to wear out on one side. And this, in turn, entails a series of consequences associated with changes in loads on the car’s suspension and destruction of bearings. By and large, everything that the vibration reaches gradually begins to collapse. Thus, we can say that strong vibration is an absolute evil.

In addition, unbalanced car wheels create some problems while driving, which leads to decreased safety on the road. This can be especially true at high speeds.

We invite you to watch a video that clearly shows the process of balancing a cast wheel:

Features of balancing alloy wheels

Balancing of alloy wheels is carried out using a technology where the weights are not stuffed, but are glued to the surface of the disk. Although there are options when the load is installed using stuffing technology. But in most cases, adhesive weights are used for alloy wheels.

On the one hand, self-adhesive weights have their advantages. Balancing weights can be glued so that they are not visible. Weights are glued to the inside of the cast wheel as close to the spokes as possible. Alloy wheels have special areas on which balancing weights are glued.

However, not all motorists like it when loads are on the outside and thereby affect the aesthetics of the rims. In order to place weights on the inside, special computer programs are used, with the help of which you can find out where the load should be attached. In addition, weights are installed along the inner rim of the cast disk. Thus, the load is completely hidden from view.

As for the disadvantages of self-adhesive weights for balancing, the most noticeable is the likelihood that, for example, during washing, the adhesive composition may lose its properties and the weight will simply fall off. This is due to the fact that heated water is used during washing. It is the temperature that affects the adhesive properties.

If we talk about padded weights, then when installing them, the outer coating of the disk may be damaged. And then oxidative processes can begin to develop in this place.

Balancing of alloy wheels should be carried out after analyzing the balancing of the wheel and tire itself. In this case, the heaviest place on the disk and the heaviest place on the wheel are sought. The wheel and tire are then assembled in such a position that the heavy areas are on opposite sides. Thus, additional imbalance is removed, and the wheel becomes easier to balance and with less weight of the balancing weight.

What happens if balancing is not done in time?

Many drivers think about whether or not to do wheel balancing themselves. There is really no choice. It is necessary to carry out this procedure, otherwise the following consequences are possible:

accelerated wear of the suspension system;
destruction of bearings;
poor tire grip;
the appearance of an unstable contact spot;
lengthening the braking distance;
deterioration in controllability;
uneven tread wear;
frequent tire replacement;
losing a wheel right on the road.

Due to the fact that vibration during driving is transmitted to the driver’s hands, this contributes to rapid fatigue. Therefore, it is necessary to do balancing, especially when there is a long road ahead.

How does wheel imbalance occur?

Imbalance is nothing more than out-of-balance wheel alignment. For example, as we have already said, to balance wheels, tire fitters use special weights (counterweights) that align the wheels so that they rotate evenly around their own axis.

Unfortunately, very often these counterweights fly off on the road. This happens especially often after hitting another pothole or if the car hits a curb.

Another cause of imbalance is uneven tread wear. For example, if you are a fan of driving from a standstill, pressing the gas pedal to the floor and braking sharply in front of traffic lights, then with this driving style the tire tread on your car will wear out unevenly very quickly. In addition, rubber tends to wear out unevenly if you like to take corners.

Moreover, you may not even notice this uneven wear with a quick glance. But you should be aware that even minor changes to the tread when tires wear unevenly due to your driving maneuvers can affect concentricity due to the centrifugal force created as the wheel rotates. For example, at a speed of 100 km/h, an imbalance of just 10 grams turns into 2.5 kilograms per wheel.

The balancing process on the machine and stand

To do balancing, you need a special machine or stand. Both are equipped with fastening cones. But only the second one, in fully automatic mode, will balance the wheels quickly and reliably.

The wheel begins to spin on the machine. In this case, the lead weights on the rim move. As a result, it is possible to achieve a random location of the center of gravity. But this is a rough balancing act that professionals do not recommend doing.

Types of balancing

The parts of the wheel, each individually, have their own imbalance, which can be balanced with weights. When fitting tires, you need to assemble them so that the points of imbalance of the elements (tire, disk) balance themselves.

Balancing your car's wheels will cost less than installing new tires or repairing the suspension. The procedure should be carried out on the front and rear wheels.

There are several types of balancing:

with unscrewing the wheels and installing them on a special machine;
finishing – carried out directly by car;
automatic - carried out with granules or special powder, but only on trucks.

How to do balancing correctly

It all starts with cleaning the wheel from dirt. Even stones in the tire tread need to be removed. Only after this can balancing be done. If there are old balancing weights on the rims, then you need to get rid of them, otherwise the whole point of the work will be lost.

Once the wheel is secured, several tests need to be done. The main thing will be to measure the tire runout. Moreover, this must be done in both directions: lateral and radial. This will be needed for a control comparison.

Balancing is more than just securing a weight to the rim. For example, in order to achieve a positive result, you need to correctly fit the tire onto the rim. This requires a special solution or lubricant. If this is not done, then distortion is quite possible. Naturally, in such conditions, precise tuning is impossible.

If you want to do the setup yourself without any difficulty and with maximum accuracy, then you will need a high-quality stand. Devices with 3D modeling capabilities perform best. The laser is responsible for the accuracy of measurements. It allows you to calculate the disk parameters and, based on them, carry out the most accurate settings.

Basic mistakes when balancing wheels

Mistakes made when balancing wheels can result in the imbalance not being completely corrected. As a result, while driving the car, the same symptoms may occur as before the procedure.

The main signs of improper wheel balancing and how to eliminate them are presented in the table.

Poor wheel balancing: signs

Balancer error	Why is this happening	How to determine	How to fix
Balancing when there is dirt on the wheel or moisture inside the wheel	Adhered dirt, foreign objects lodged in the tread, and water inside the tire create inconsistent imbalances.	The wheel is not brought to zero on the machine, the imbalance is not completely eliminated	Wash the wheel thoroughly, remove foreign objects from the tread
Balancing a wheel with a broken tire or wheel geometry	The tire is deformed due to abnormal loads or violation of storage conditions	The balancing machine shows a large amount of imbalance. When the wheel rotates, strong vibrations occur. The wobble of a wheel or tire when rotating is noticeable to the eye.	Replace a defective tire or wheel
Balancing a wheel with a broken tire or wheel geometry	The disc is deformed, its core is displaced relative to the rim, a “figure eight” appears		Replace a defective tire or wheel
Incorrect torque of the hub bolt on the balancing machine	Deformation of the central center of the disk	The stand shows a large imbalance. The runout of the wheel when rotating on the machine is noticeable to the eye.	Correctly fix the wheel on the machine hub and recheck the balance
	Weak disk tightening on the machine hub
	Incorrect selection of centering cone
Violation of technology for installing a tire on a disk	Misalignment of mark and nipple	Many tires have a colored manufacturer's mark at the point of lightest weight, which should be located near the valve.	Orient the tire on the rim so that the mark is near the valve
	Poor quality side lubrication	The technician did not apply a special compound to the tire beads, which is why their fit is noticeably poor. There may be some beating noticeable to the naked eye.	Coat the beads with a sealing compound and inflate the wheel to maximum operating pressure.
	Insufficient pumping	The tire did not press tightly against the rim due to lack of pressure.
Misalignment when installing a wheel on the vehicle axle	Tightening bolts or nuts in a circle	The wheel on the machine shows normal balance (“to zero” or an imbalance of less than 5 grams), but after balancing the wheels there is still vibration.	Unscrew the wheel and re-tighten it to the hub, tightening the bolts or nuts crosswise diagonally, observing the torque specified by the car manufacturer
Misalignment when installing a wheel on the vehicle axle	Uneven tightening of bolts or nuts around
Failure to secure the machine	Unreliable fixation of the machine on the ground (on a concrete base, using anchors)	In the process of spinning the wheel, the machine itself begins to vibrate, and the floor in the workshop hums.	Balance the wheel on a machine fixed in accordance with the rules for its installation and operation
Poor fixation of weights	The master did not fasten the weights securely enough, without pressing them to the side or without treating the surface of the disk for gluing	Soon after balancing, vibration arose again, there are no weights on the wheel, traces of fallen weights are visible (on the alloy wheels).	Re-balance the wheel and securely secure the loads. For stamped disks - check the clamping of the weights; for cast disks - clean the surface before installing the weight on an adhesive base
Inaccurate balancing	The master did not set the imbalance indicators to zero, leaving a slight runout	Small vibrations still appear at speed. The balancing stand shows an imbalance on one side of more than 5 grams.	Rebalance the wheel.
Excessive amount of cargo	The imbalance measurements were made inaccurately, which is why the number of weights and their mass were selected in excess. The tire is not aligned relative to the rim.	The total weight (for a passenger wheel) is more than 70 grams on each side.	By moving the tire relative to the disk, select their optimal position, in which less weight is needed. Have the wheel balanced on a more accurate machine and/or by a more experienced technician.
Excessive amount of cargo	The tire or disk has critical deformations		Replace a defective tire or wheel

DIY machine

You can make a basic wheel balancing machine with your own hands without much difficulty. Here is the simplest design that will allow for much more precise adjustments than a car hub:

support table;
indicator stand;
shaft;
indicators;
bearings;
cone;
washer;
adjustment bolts;
disk;
lower stand;
tire.

Bolts help control the height, choosing the optimal parameter. Bearings reduce drag. But you need to make a body for them. As a base for the stand, you can take a pipe with a diameter of 52 mm. Indicators are installed on the sides. They are the ones who will measure the beat.

How to balance wheels yourself is shown in the video:

Final balancing check

After the wheel is balanced, you can ask to remove it from the stand, then put it back and check it. It is possible that when checking again, the system will again show an imbalance. This is normal: a statistical error of no more than 10 grams is officially allowed, which is due to the non-ideal accuracy of wheel installation on the stand. This error will be removed during final balancing.

The final check of balancing quality is carried out on a lift when all wheels are installed on the car. This is done in order to, if necessary, compensate for the impact of the brake disc, hub, and bolts. In the video below you can clearly see how it is done.

The procedure is quite simple:

All wheels are installed on the car, the car itself is hung on a lift;
Sensors are installed on the wheels to record vibration;
The wheels accelerate to a speed of 100-110 km/h, after which sensors monitor whether there is any runout due to imbalance;
Finish balancing is carried out using weights.

You can evaluate how well the work was done both by the instruments on the stand and by your own feelings: the steering wheel does not vibrate, there are no extraneous noises, the car drives smoothly and “beautifully.” More details on how to determine correct and good balancing for an inexperienced driver are shown in the video below.

Do-it-yourself balancing without special equipment

You can do the setup yourself without special equipment. To do this you need to jack up the wheel a little. Therefore, when you spin it up to a certain speed. In fact, the role of the machine will be played by the hub.

You need to wait until the wheel stops on its own. The fact is that its heaviest place will be at the bottom. To make sure of this, make a note and spin it again.

The balancer is mounted on the opposite side of the heaviest place. Special attention should be paid to weight selection. It is better to start with a small mass and gradually increase it until the wheel stops in a random place every time. Only after this can the final fixation be made. If the design allows, it is better to divide the weight into two parts. This will ensure an even distribution of weight over the entire area.

You can do wheel balancing yourself without much difficulty. In the simplest version, you don’t even need a machine for this. A hub and some free time will be enough. Ideally, it is better to use a stand.

In the video you can see how to balance wheels at home:

How to balance a set of tires at home?

DIY balancing device

If a tire service is unavailable or if you want to save money, you can balance the wheels yourself using a machine that can be assembled in a garage. The simplest garage balancing stand consists of a hub securely mounted on a rigid support with a flat base.

Balancing must be done in the following order:

Fasten the wheel, cleaned of dirt, to the hub and spin it by hand.
During rotation, observe the beating of the rubber, the “figure eight” of the disk.
If there are strong pronounced deformations and runout, balancing is unlikely to help.
Wait until the wheel stops and is balanced, put a chalk mark at the top point.
Turn the wheel 90 degrees (a quarter turn) in both directions several times, waiting for it to stop after each turn.
If the wheel is in a different position each time, there is no pronounced static imbalance, it is “conditionally balanced.”
If the mark is always at the top, the main point of imbalance has been identified, you can begin to eliminate it.
The faster the wheel returns to the top position, the more weight is needed. Its exact value can only be predicted experimentally. Without experience, you can start with a load weighing 20–30 grams.
To eliminate the imbalance, you need to hang (without fixing it securely) a weight opposite the mark and repeat step 4.
If, after hanging the weight, the mark still appears at the top, its mass must be increased; if it now goes down, it must be reduced.
It is necessary to adjust the weight of the weights until the wheel, after spinning 90 degrees, stops in any position. When the optimal set of weights has been selected, they can be fixed.

For a more uniform distribution of masses, you can use several weights: for example, instead of one for 40 grams on the outer side, attach 20 gram weights on the outer and inner sides opposite the mark.

The described method is a static balancing designed to shift the center of mass of the wheel as close as possible to the axis of its rotation. It allows you to eliminate very large imbalances with an accuracy acceptable for cars that do not drive fast, but is not suitable for fine adjustments of balance. This is acceptable wheel balancing for VAZ classics and other similar models.

More accurate balancing of car wheels at home is possible using a “spinning top” shaped device. The tool can be made on a lathe from a solid steel blank (moreover, steel is harder than the common ST-3) with a diameter of about 150 mm, so that the structure is monolithic and balanced.

Aluminum and other soft metals are not suitable because the ends of the spindle axle must be rigid and not deform or become dull under the weight of the wheel!

The tool should have a slight taper on one side that turns into a thread. The conical shape is needed so that the wheel self-centers when the nut is tightened.

The balancing process is carried out as follows:

Balancing a wheel at home: video

Place the “top” in the central hole of the disk and tighten it with a nut.
Place the wheel with the tip of the “top” on a flat, hard surface or in a stand with a recess.
Move the wheel and release it, controlling the position in space. A balanced wheel should independently occupy a horizontal position and return to it after rocking. If there is an imbalance, it will not stay “in the horizon”.
If an imbalance is detected, you need to take a weight and place it at the highest point of the wheel, and then repeat step 3. If the same section still rises with the load, its mass must be increased; if it begins to fall, decrease it.
The weight of the weights is selected until the wheel on the spoke begins to take a horizontal position and returns to it after each rocking. The static balancing of the wheel is completed, and if high accuracy is not required, then it can be placed on the car. If you also need to eliminate dynamic imbalance, then you need a rigid tripod (for example, a laboratory one) with chalk and the following further actions:
The wheel is manually spun on the top to the maximum possible speed.
With the help of a small wooden block, lightly pressed against the upper edge of the top, the vibrations introduced during spinning are dampened.
The tripod arm with the chalk attached is smoothly brought to the wheel rim until it makes the first contact.
After several revolutions of the wheel (and touching the chalk), you need to stop it and see at what point the chalk touches the disk.
At the point where the chalk touches, a weight should be secured (the weight is selected experimentally), and a second weight of the same weight should be secured on the diametrically and diagonally opposite side of the rim. This is necessary to prevent static imbalance.
Experiment with the weights until the beating of the wheel goes away and it stops touching the chalk with one point.

Self-balancing in a garage cannot fully replace the procedure on modern equipment due to low accuracy. Therefore, if possible, it is better to visit a service station and eliminate the imbalance completely. This is more reliable, and taking into account the considerable labor required to balance large wheels, it is also much easier.