Replacing shock absorber bushings and torque rods on a VAZ classic

Quite often, the cause of knocking in the area of ​​the rear wheels of a VAZ is wear of the torque rod bushings. Many people change the entire rods, since it is much easier than replacing bushings. But practice shows that the service life of the jet thrust is many times greater than the service life of the bushings, so it makes sense to change only the bushings. It’s not difficult to do it yourself, the main thing is to know the technology.

It is more convenient to carry out all work on replacing rear jet rods on a VAZ 2101-2107 in an inspection pit or overpass. First of all, you need to remove the old jet rod. On one side it is attached to the body, and on the other - to the bridge.

We unscrew the nuts on the bolts, remove or knock out the bolts using a metal spacer and release the reaction rod. Then you need to press out the old metal sleeve. To do this, you need to clamp the torque eye in a vice and knock out the metal bushing using a spacer.

After it is knocked out, removing the rubber bushing is not difficult - just pry it off with a screwdriver. It is best to clean the inside of the eye with a file.

In order to install new bushings on the VAZ, you need to use a vice. First, install the rubber bushing - lubricate the inside of the rod eye and the bushing with soapy water, and then use a vice to press the bushing into the eye. You need to do the same with the metal sleeve. We repeat the procedure for the second eye.

When installing the torque rod, it is best to use new bolts and nuts. Before inserting the bolt into the torque bushing, it is best to lubricate it with lubricant - lithol or. Since the jet thrust changes the angle of its position during operation, the lubricant will protect the bolt from abrasion of the thread. This bolt will be much easier to remove later.

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The knocking noise in the rear wheels of the kopeck, deuce and the next row of classic models of the domestic automobile industry appears from wear on the bushings of the reaction rods or, as they are also called, rods. Almost all classic VAZs in their layout contain these elements necessary for the rear axle.

Some car owners change the entire rod, but to eliminate knocking or other malfunctions, it is enough to change only the bushings, which wear out very quickly, unless, of course, the rod itself is bent or deformed. Naturally, changing a complete rod is much easier than knocking out a worn rubber band and then pressing a new one back in, but this process is more economical and not so complicated.

On the market today you can find many different repair kits, both for complete rods and for bushings separately. When purchasing, you should pay attention to the equipment, and more specifically to the number of large and small rubber spare parts. Most provide sets with 4 large and 6 small bushings. It is better to take a repair kit for the VAZ-2121 in which all the elements are of the same large size. Of course, you will have to tinker with them, but the resulting result will meet all expectations. In addition to rubber bushings, you will also need to purchase metal bushings, which in any case will also need to be replaced.

The procedure for replacing rear torque rod bushings must be carried out in the inspection pit. First of all, you need to unscrew the nuts on the bolts that connect the rod to the car body and the bridge. Then remove the bolts and release the rod itself.

When using the machine for a long time, to carry out this operation, you may need special tools, for example, a metal spacer, with which you can knock out a rusted bolt. After removing the jet thrust, you can begin to knock out the worn bushings. To do this, it is better to clamp the eye of the rod in a vice, and use the same spacer and hammer to knock out the rubber. Once the bushing has moved out of its place, it can be easily removed by prying it off with a screwdriver. As a last resort, if it is already stuck to the metal, the bushing can be pulled out with pliers. After freeing the rod ear from the rubber bushing, its inner surface must be cleaned with sandpaper and the surface wiped with a dry cloth.

When installing a new bushing, you need to make sure that the inner surface of the ear is smooth and free of roughness. Next, the rod and the new elastic band are treated with soapy water in order to avoid much friction. The bushing to be replaced is inserted into the eye of the rod and, using a vice, is carefully and slowly pressed into place. After this, the metal part is installed in the same way. The same actions must be performed with the second part of the jet thrust.

In addition to replacing the bushings, you also need to take care of the bolts and nuts. It is advisable to change them too, because jet thrust is a moving element of the car. The seats of the car body and axle are pre-cleaned and lubricated with special oil. After this, the rod with the replaced bushings is screwed to the body. You can also lubricate the bolts themselves, thus protecting them from corrosion.

Knocks and shaking in VAZ cars mainly depend on the rear thrust rods, so attention should be paid to them, especially since solving the problem does not involve large financial investments and does not require more skill and experience. There were even cases when the rear rod simply burst in the area of ​​the eye and the rear axle “drove” along the road, but the domestic car still kept moving.

Another interesting way to replace the bushing ⇓

Such parts are always made from high-strength and high-quality raw materials. But due to transverse and longitudinal loads, chemicals from the road and water, the product gradually wears out. Most often, the torque rod bushings break, which need to be changed from time to time.

When a VAZ-2107 needs to replace jet rods

As previously mentioned, rods are made of high-quality metal (mainly steel). This raw material can withstand heavy loads over many years of use.

The weak point of the rods is the eyes. These parts are welded to the rods and are not a continuation of them, and the welding has a certain service life. Over time, the solder joints may gradually become damaged or destroyed.

To avoid problems when driving and to prevent malfunction of the rods, you need to periodically check the condition of the spare parts. If deformation, cracks, or signs of destruction occur, the reaction rods must be replaced.

It is especially necessary to monitor the suitability of silent blocks, which often break when they cannot withstand loads. As a result of this, the fastening of the rods weakens, they begin to move relative to the base, ceasing to perform their direct functions.

In this case, there is no need to wait for the rubber bands to fail. If knocking noises occur while the vehicle is moving, inspect and identify damage to the rods, change them immediately. To do this, you don’t have to go to a service station; you can do everything yourself.

Independent removal and installation of new parts on the lower arm

How to change the ignition switch on a VAZ 2110 with your own hands step by step

Removing the lower silent blocks on a VAZ 2107 begins with the following steps:

1. The anti-roll bar mounting bracket is unscrewed and through the upper stud of its mounting, it is moved to the free position.
2. The two nuts securing the lower arm axis are unscrewed, after which the ball joint is removed, unscrewing its nut and using a puller or hammer, it is removed from the steering knuckle.

Next, unscrew the two bolts securing the lower arm to the cross beam of the car, dismantle it, clamp it in a vice, and using a puller, carefully press out the old silent blocks, replacing which they install new ones, having previously cleaned their seats, after which they install the units in the reverse order.

After replacing the silent blocks on a VAZ 2107 with your own hands, the car is completely lowered onto all wheels, and under a standard load on the suspension, all axle nuts are finally tightened. Also watch the video of the work in progress:

Step-by-step replacement of jet rods

The work is carried out on an overpass or pit. If this is not possible, then a flat area is found, the required part of the machine is raised and fixed.

To work you will need:

• a set of keys;
• WD-40;
• metal brush.

Replacement of jet rods is carried out as follows:

1. The joints of the rods are cleaned with a special brush. After this procedure, the bolted joint must be treated with WD-40 and given time to soak.
2. It happens that you can’t unscrew it the first time, then you need to re-process it and wait some more time.

For the greatest efficiency, take a wrench with a large “shoulder” and unscrew the nut, but this option is not suitable if you are working without a hole, but lying under the machine.

1. When the nut reaches the edge of the bolt, several blows are applied with a hammer to displace it from the “home” area, since usually this element is strongly stuck in the bushing.
2. Use a wrench to completely unscrew the nut and remove the bolt; if it does not come out, use a drift.
3. If the rod is torn out alive, then the remaining parts of the mechanism are taken. This can be done using a mounting spatula.
4. Next move on to the second fastening. At this stage, the lower part of the shock absorber is unscrewed, the spacer is pulled out and it is moved to the side so that you have access to the bolt.
5. The nuts may be very tight to unscrew, but this is normal. The difficulty of the process is explained by the fact that locknuts are used for fixation. Its distinctive characteristic is that it is equipped with a nylon border around the edge, making the connection very tight.
6. It will be more difficult later. The design is such that the bolt is mounted on the gearbox side. To get to it, you need to remove unnecessary parts from the left side (take out the axle shaft, remove the brake disc, etc.). Carrying out these activities will require a lot of time and effort. Therefore, it is recommended to clean the connection with a brush, treat it with WD-40, and then try to unscrew it
7. If nothing works, then use a grinder. The head of the bolt is cut off in the area between the bracket and the silent block. An identical procedure is done on the other side.
8. The mounting spatula removes the rod from the bracket.

Lower arm repair

How to change the lower ball joint on a VAZ 2107

If the lower arm is slightly bent and no other damage is detected, then you can continue to operate the car, you just need to check the wheel alignment. Repair or replacement of this element of the front suspension is carried out in the following cases:

• severe damage to the lower arm;
• appearance of cracks.

To complete the work you will need the following tools:

• set of open-end wrenches;
• set of heads;
• metal brush;
• jack;
• puller for pressing out silent blocks;
• device for removing ball joints;
• mounting blade;
• penetrating liquid;
• hammer;
• vice.

Removing the lever

The need to dismantle the lower arm arises when the specified element fails to replace the axle or silent blocks.

Work order:

1. Raise the front of the car. To do this, use a jack, but you can also use a lift.
2. Remove the wheel.
3. Unscrew the lower shock absorber mount.
4. Loosen the nuts on the axle.
5. Release the stabilizer pad mounting.
6. Lightly load the suspension. To do this, you will need a reliable support, which is placed under the lever and the car is lowered slightly.
7. Unscrew the nut on the support and press out the pin. This is done using a special puller.
8. Unload the suspension. This must be done smoothly. Gently pull back the stabilizer to move it through the pin located on the lower arm.
9. Remove the spring. To do this, it is pryed up and removed from the support cup.
10. Unscrew the axle mounting bolts. Under them there are washers that are used to adjust the camber angle of the wheels. You need to remember their location, otherwise you will have to make adjustments again.
11. Remove the lower arm. To do this, use a mounting spatula, which is used to gently press out the axle.

Video: sequence of dismantling the lower arm

Replacing the ball joint

You can replace the ball joint on the lower arm without removing it. Since we have already removed the lower arm, it will be much easier to change the ball joint on it:

1. Clean the ball joint mounting nuts. This is done using a metal brush; you can also lubricate the threads with WD-40.
2. Remove the support. To do this, unscrew the three fastening nuts and remove the indicated element. Carefully inspect the lever to detect possible damage and cracks.
3. Install a new ball joint and tighten all nuts.

The new ball joint already comes with lubricant, so there is no need to lubricate it additionally. Some supports have an oil nipple in the lower part, through which you can additionally fill it with lubricant over time.

Video: replacing the ball joint

Replacing silent blocks

The sequence of work to replace silent blocks on the removed lower arm:

1. The lever is securely fixed in a vice.
2. Using a puller, the old hinges are pressed out.
3. Inspect the lever for damage.
4. One silent blocks are inserted. A puller is also used for this.
5. The axle is inserted into the hole along with the washers.
6. Press in the second hinge. They do this in the same way as in the previous case.

Video: replacing silent blocks

Experts recommend that after replacing the ball joint and silent blocks, use only new nuts.

Lever Installation

After repairing the lever body, replacing silent blocks or a ball joint, installation of the lower lever is performed in the reverse order:

1. The axle and the lever are secured using bolts.
2. The lower edge of the spring is installed in the support cup. After this, they begin to tighten the lower lever. Make sure that the stabilizer does not catch on the bushing.
3. Insert the threaded part of the ball joint and fix the nut.
4. Fix the stabilizer pad.
5. Install the shock absorber and tighten the nut.
6. Check the tightness of all nuts. They must be clamped securely and firmly.
7. Install the wheels and remove the car from the jack.

At this point, the replacement of the lower arm is considered complete, and you can continue to operate the car safely and comfortably.

Video: installing the lower arm

By regularly inspecting the condition of the front suspension on the VAZ 2107, you can notice and eliminate any malfunctions in time. Even a novice car enthusiast can replace the lever, ball joint or silent blocks on his own. Keeping the suspension in good condition ensures not only comfortable, but also safe operation of the vehicle. The use of high-quality parts from trusted manufacturers will significantly increase their service life and repairs will need to be performed much less frequently.

Installation of traction is done as follows:

• First, the rod is mounted in the front bracket. Before inserting the bolt into the desired hole, it is treated with nigrol;
• The reaction rod is placed in the rear bracket. Don't be surprised if the holes at the mounting location don't line up.

If the jet rod was broken, then the bridge would move all the time under load. This led to the shift.

To adjust the holes, you need to use a mounting spatula, resting it on the bracket, and unscrew the bridge until the fasteners align. When they match, you need to insert the bolt and secure it with a nut.

With the help of such manipulations, you will be able to replace the jet rods with your own hands and save money on visiting a service station.

How to replace the upper silent block

First of all, unscrew the vertical bolt that serves to secure the front bumper - without this you will not be able to get to the axle. Then remove the nut holding the ball joint, and then press the finger out of its bipod with a puller.

• disconnect the upper arm from the body (you will need two 22 mm wrenches);
• fix the latter in a vice;
• Using a puller, remove the silent block and put a new part in its place.

Now all that remains is to assemble the entire assembly, proceeding in the reverse sequence described. And at the very end you need to do the following:

• turn the steering wheel;
• Tighten the bolt and nut holding the upper arm until snug.

Silent blocks VAZ 2106

Quite high loads are constantly placed on the silent blocks of car suspensions, especially on roads with poor surfaces. Such conditions significantly reduce the life of these parts, as a result of which they fail and need to be replaced. Since the controllability of the car depends on the condition of the silent blocks, you need to know not only how to identify a fault, but also how to replace these suspension components.

What it is

The silent block is a rubber-metal product, structurally made of two iron bushings with a rubber insert between them. Through these parts, the components of the car's suspension are connected, and thanks to the rubber part, vibrations transmitted from one suspension element to another are dampened.

Silent blocks connect suspension elements and dampen vibrations

Where installed

On the VAZ 2106, silent blocks are pressed into the arms of the front suspension, as well as into the reaction rods of the rear axle, connecting it to the body. The condition of these elements must be periodically monitored, and if they are damaged, repairs must be made in a timely manner.

The front suspension of the classic Zhiguli consists of the following parts: 1. Spar. 2. Stabilizer bracket. 3. Rubber cushion. 4. Stabilizer bar. 5. Lower arm axis. 6. Lower suspension arm. 7. Hairpin. 8. Lower arm amplifier. 9. Stabilizer bracket. 10. Stabilizer clamp. 11. Shock absorber. 12. Bracket bolt. 13. Shock absorber bolt. 14. Shock absorber bracket. 15. Suspension spring. 16. Steering knuckle. 17. Ball joint bolt. 18. Elastic liner. 19. Cork. 20. Insert clip. 21. Bearing housing. 22. Ball bearing. 23. Protective cover. 24. Lower ball pin. 25. Self-locking nut. 26. Finger. 27. Spherical washer. 28. Elastic liner. 29. Pressure ring. 30. Insert clip. 31. Bearing housing. 32. Bearing. 33. Upper suspension arm. 34. Upper arm amplifier. 35. Compression progress buffer. 36. Buffer bracket. 37. Support cap. 38. Rubber cushion. 39. Nut. 40. Belleville washer. 41. Rubber gasket. 42. Spring support cup. 43. Upper arm axis. 44. Inner bushing of the hinge. 45. Outer bushing of the hinge. 46. ​​Rubber bushing of the hinge. 47. Thrust washer. 48. Self-locking nut. 49. Adjusting washer 0.5 mm 50. Distance washer 3 mm. 51. Cross member. 52. Inner washer. 53. Inner sleeve. 54. Rubber bushing. 55. Outer thrust washer

What are there

On the VAZ “Six” and other Zhiguli models, silent blocks made of rubber were installed from the factory. However, instead of them, you can use polyurethane products, thereby improving the performance of the suspension and its characteristics. Polyurethane hinges have a longer service life compared to rubber ones. The main disadvantage of polyurethane elements is their high price. If a set of silent blocks made of rubber for a VAZ 2106 costs about 450 rubles, then made of polyurethane it will cost 1,500 rubles. Hinges made of modern material not only improve the behavior of the car, but also better absorb shock and vibration, reducing noise.

Silicone silent blocks, despite their higher cost, improve the characteristics and performance of the suspension

What is the resource

The service life of rubber-metal joints directly depends on the quality of the products and the operation of the vehicle. If the car is used mainly on good quality roads, then the silent blocks can last 100 thousand km. If you frequently drive through potholes, of which there are many on our roads, the service life of the part is noticeably reduced and repairs may be required after 40–50 thousand km.

Purpose of silent blocks

Silent blocks are called hinges consisting of two or one metal bushings connected through a rubber insert. The part in question in the form of metal bushings serves to combine suspension units, and rubber materials serve as dampers of vibrations that occur when the machine moves, transmitted from one unit to another. Due to these small parts, the service life of the car suspension is extended, since all vibrations, deformations and vibrations are smoothed out using a silent block.

The design of the VAZ-2107 vehicle uses a corresponding number of silent blocks located in the front and rear suspension. In the design of the front suspension of the seven, the devices in question are used to fix the levers, and in the rear suspension they are used to connect the reaction rods connecting the axle to the body.

Signs of malfunction of levers and silent blocks

Any part has its own service life. The more stress a part experiences, the faster it wears out. It is imperative to monitor the condition of the silent blocks, since over time the following consequences are observed: the rubber begins to tear, beating and vibrations occur at the joints. Moreover, rubber wear occurs not only when the machine is in operation, but also when it is idle, since rubber material tends to deteriorate under the influence of many factors.

The approximate service life of the devices in question is 90-100 thousand kilometers. Moreover, this only applies to hinges made of high-quality rubber or polyurethane. It is also worth noting that polyurethane products have a longer service life, unlike rubber ones, but at the same time they have such disadvantages as installation difficulties (it is almost impossible to install them without a special puller), and also the suspension with them becomes stiffer.

The need to replace hinges can be diagnosed by a number of the following signs:

1. Lack of “responsiveness” of the car when the steering wheel is turned sharply.
2. During the inspection, deformations of the devices are revealed.
3. Knock from the suspension when driving over uneven surfaces.
4. Backlash in the locations of parts.

If you are not sure that the devices should be replaced, you can visit a service station, where the technicians will carry out diagnostics and inform you about the need to replace the joints on the machine.

A little theory

The silent block is one of the critical parts of the suspension of the VAZ-2106 car, with the help of which fastening elements of such units as:

• shock absorbers;
• anti-roll bar;
• gear box;
• jet thrust;
• beam supports;
• rear suspension rods.

Despite the apparent simplicity of the design, the rubber-metal hinge in the VAZ-2106:

• ensures the mobility of suspension parts relative to each other;
• withstands axial, radial and angular loads;
• absorbs vibrations simultaneously in all planes.

During operation of the VAZ-2106, the silent blocks of the front suspension quickly wear out, which leads to a violation of the geometry of the front wheels and uneven wear of the tire tread. If they are heavily worn, wheel alignment adjustment does not produce results. The only way to get out of this situation is to replace worn out hinges.

The rubber-metal hinges of the rear suspension of the VAZ-2106 wear out in the same way. If the rear axle of the car has lost stability, and a characteristic knocking sound appears in the area of ​​the rear axle when driving on an uneven road, then the rubber-metal hinges of the rear suspension also need to be replaced.

It is best to change pressed, heavily worn silent blocks on a VAZ-2106 car at a service station, whose specialists are equipped with the necessary tools, however, in case of urgent need, you can carry out this procedure yourself.

Replacing the silent blocks of the upper arm

That's all, now you have the upper lever in your hands, you need to knock out the hinges from it. But, of course, you shouldn’t hit it hard, since the rubber reflects the blow, so you can hit yourself in the eye with a hammer if you swing it well. It is best to use a puller for this purpose. If you are repairing a car, then you should have tools available. In particular, a good vice will not be superfluous. Now begins the replacement of the silent blocks of the VAZ-2106 lever, which you have been looking for for so long.

The lever is securely fixed in a vice. You put the puller on the hinge and, screwing in its nut, begin to press out the silent block. Before repairs, it is recommended to treat all components with penetrating lubricant - hinges, threaded connections. And if you don’t want to suffer with the puller, then your only helper is fire. Just warm up the silent block under an open fire. All the rubber burns out, leaving only the metal part of the hinge, which is easily knocked out of the lever with one blow. Of course, this method can be called barbaric, but on the VAZ-2106, silent blocks can be replaced with its help. Especially in cases where the puller fails to remove the hinge.