Good day, dear readers! In the fifteenth issue of the in-flight magazine, I will tell you why I decided to change the oil in the Lada Granta engine myself and which oil I chose. I would like to immediately note that, according to the operating manual from AVTOVAZ, the oil is changed every 15,000 km, namely within the framework of TO-1, TO-2, TO-3, TO-4, TO-5, TO-6, TO-7, TO-8, etc.
In my case, I will change the oil every 10,000 km, combining it with valve adjustment.
How much lubrication does the engine require?
In view of the previously indicated variety of power units available for this model of the LADA Granta, when version 8 valve, the volume of lubricating fluid for replacement can vary between 3.5 - 4 liters.
More detailed technical specifications regarding the specific motor installed on your car are reflected on the pages of the technical manual.
It is recommended to purchase a volume of lubricant that is 1 liter larger than the required amount. During operation, it is possible to add fluid (due to natural waste during operation).
How to remove door trim on Grant
Grant front suspension
Tuning Grant liftback photo
Tools for work
Changing the oil in Grant, equipped with both 8 and 16 valves, is almost identical, at least the main stages of the procedure are completely the same. The only difference between changing the oil in an 8- and 16-valve engine on a Grant is that the first power unit will allow the motorist to get to the oil filter much faster, subsequently dismantling it. As for the 16-valve engine, its owner will have to dismantle the crankcase protection before changing the lubricant.
As practice shows, anyone can change the engine oil on a Lada Grant; it is very important to prepare the vehicle in advance. The power unit must be warmed up, the lubricant can reach 80 ° C.
All replacement steps, example in video
The proper operation of the car is ensured not only by the quality of its components, but also by the working fluids and consumables used, which must be changed in a timely manner. These include the Lada Granta oil filter, which is replaced along with the engine oil. The procedure can be performed at home if you use the step-by-step instructions described in the article.
Necessary equipment
Before you start work, take care of the necessary tools and equipment. You will need:
- Oil. Volume: 3 liters. In general, the Lada Grant requires 3.5 liters of lubricant, but it will not be possible to completely remove the used consumables; about half a liter will remain in the engine.
- Set of keys. You will need a 17 mm wrench and a wrench to loosen the oil filter.
- Containers for collecting waste consumables. An old bucket or basin will do.
- A rag for cleaning the tray.
- Garage with inspection hole, overpass or jack.
Crib
- To replace, you need a 12mm hexagon , container , remover and a canister for filling;
- It is better to work on a pit or a lift (the latter will require lowering/raising the car several times);
- Do not overtighten the filter when installing;
- Before pouring a new one, check the drain plug and the installation of a new filter;
- If you removed the DPKV chip, put it back on before starting the engine;
- After replacing and starting the machine, check that the oil pressure sensor goes out.
Wondering how to service your car yourself? Then read other articles about working with Granta at the link.
Don't forget to add comments. We are interested in everything that we didn’t like, missed in the article and any other comments.
Source
Original
Most car owners prefer to install only original components on their car, which were originally on the car when purchased. The following original oil filters are suitable for installation:
- 21080-1012005-08;
- 21050-1012005-00;
- 21080-1012005-09;
- 21080-1012005-00.
All of them are considered original and are installed on VAZ cars. Specifically, the Lada Granta is equipped with an oil purification filter, produced and sold under article number 21080101200508.
Do not forget that original components (even for Russian cars) are often counterfeited, so during the selection process it is important not to buy a fake. The quality of counterfeits leaves much to be desired; they will not be able to provide complete fuel purification and will quickly fail
Analogs
If you don’t want to overpay for a brand, then take a closer look at inexpensive analogues. They are not inferior to the original in terms of characteristics and perform all functions at the same high level. For example, the following brands are popular among car owners:
| Name | vendor code | Price, rub.) |
| GOODWILL | OG-313 160 | 160-180 |
| FORTECH | FO-018 | 150-170 |
| FILTRON | OP643/3 | 150-170 |
| LOGEM | LRT-328 | 80-100 |
| MECAFILTER | ELH4196 | 100-130 |
Remember to carefully check the components you purchase. To avoid counterfeiting, contact only trusted sellers. Also, do not forget to check the appearance of the packaging and the product itself.
Check if there are any extraneous inscriptions or external defects on them. If you doubt the seller’s honesty, be sure to ask for certificates for the products sold and read them carefully.
Why change the oil yourself?
Perhaps someone will ask: “Why change the oil yourself, if now most sellers offer their customers a free oil change?”
There are two reasons for this:
- Free replacement. Forget about the word "FREE" - it's advertising. In the world of commerce, nothing is done for free. When I first changed the oil “free” on my Grant, I had to buy the oil itself for 1,610 rubles. and an oil filter for 290 rubles, a total of 1900 rubles. Only when purchasing oil and filter at the same time, you could use the “free” replacement service. When the time came for the next oil change, I decided to find out the price of MAGNUM ULTRATEC 5W-40 in the spare parts store of the official LADA dealer. Imagine my surprise when I saw the price tag of 1,320 rubles on the canister. An oil filter in the same store cost 280 rubles, a total of 1600 rubles. Naturally, the store did not offer any “free” replacement. We conclude: “free oil change” is already included in the cost of oil. Want to save 300 rubles? – change the oil yourself. By the way, I recently came across a site on the Internet where MAGNUM ULTRATEC 5W-40 is being sold for 1,032 rubles. (4l). Then add the savings :)).
- Full control of the replacement process. When you change the oil yourself, you control the entire process. It is possible to evaluate the condition of the drained oil, its viscosity, and transparency. Even a simple visual inspection will help you draw preliminary conclusions about the quality of used oil. “Workouts” may be different (depending on the quality of the oil and operating conditions). Some are black, like shoe polish, and even with a “pearl” tint, indicating the presence of small metal shavings in the used oil. Such development is a very bad signal, indicating rapid engine wear. Another point that you can control when replacing it yourself is the force with which the oil filter is screwed in. After the “free” replacement, I barely unscrewed the oil filter on my Grant, and when I unscrewed it, there was a large dent on it, which formed at the moment of “tightening” the filter. In short, they tightened the filter like bolts on a wheel. What if the thread was torn off or some other problem? In general, when you change it yourself, it’s much calmer.
Procedure for changing engine oil
Below I described the procedure for changing engine oil in the Lada Granta engine, which I followed myself. Whether you follow it or not is up to you.
Warming up the engine
I would like to note that the oil change is carried out when the engine is warm. Hot oil is more liquid and flows easily from the engine walls and oil passages. If the oil is cold, then a significant part of it will remain in the engine. Therefore, be sure to warm up the engine before replacing.
Unscrew the oil filler cap
The first thing I did was unscrew the oil filler cap to allow free air flow when draining the oil.
Why unscrew the cap? If this is not done, then when draining the used oil, a vacuum of air will be created in the engine, preventing complete draining. Why does this happen? The fact is that in modern engines there is no direct communication between the crankcase and the atmosphere.
The modern crankcase ventilation system is a separate topic, I will not go into it, I will only say that it is designed to reduce the emission of harmful substances into the atmosphere. You've probably heard about the environmental class of a car: Euro-3, Euro-4, Euro-5. I think everyone knows about them. So, a modern crankcase ventilation system is part of the environmental standard.
By the way, the Lada Granta (in my case, 2022) meets the Euro-5 environmental standard. What am I talking about? Moreover, it is better to unscrew the oil filler cap. Of course, the oil will drain with the cap screwed on, but with the cap unscrewed it will drain a little faster... In general, I unscrewed the cap, and you do as you see fit... Moreover, you still have to unscrew the cap to fill the oil, whether you do it earlier or later...
Just in case, I covered the neck hole with a clean rag so that no dirt got in there..... Let's move on.
Drain the used oil
To drain the oil from the engine, just unscrew the drain plug at the bottom of the crankcase with a 17 key and place a container where the used oil will be drained. If your car has a metal engine protection (as in the image), then pay attention to the oval plug.
Removing it will give you access to the drain plug. There is no need to remove the protection itself.
So, we place the container under the oil and use a 17 key to unscrew the plug. Having slightly loosened the plug with a key, you can then unscrew it by hand. Just be careful. Stand back a little when you remove the plug to prevent hot oil from splashing on you.
Changing the oil filter
After unscrewing the plug, let the oil drain into the container. While the oil is draining, you can unscrew the oil filter and replace it with a new one.
To unscrew the oil filter, I used a chain-shaped tool with a ratchet head.
Car dealerships sell several different types of tools for unscrewing filters, but I chose the “chain” option because it seemed more reliable and versatile to me.
Before installing a new oil filter, do not forget to generously lubricate the rubber O-ring with oil - this will make tightening the filter much easier.
If this is not done, the rubber ring, in contact with the metal surface, will begin to “slow down” the process of tightening the filter. You will try to tighten it, but it will come back, as if on a spring.
Design of motors 21126 and 21127
The appearance of the 16-valve engine is shown in the photo. Here we consider the option “with manual transmission”. The neck is closed with plug 12. Element 28 is the oil dipstick.
Drawing of a 16-valve engine, right view
Drawing of a 16-valve engine, left view
The oil filter is shown in the second drawing and designated by the number 24. There are no other important elements here.
The oil pan can be made in different versions. To service a car with a manual transmission, it is enough to have a spanner wrench, which is used to unscrew plug 4.
Drawing of oil pan, 2 types
Owners of automatic cars need a hex key
Also, please note that the notch on plug 3 will be very weak. If it goes wrong once, it won’t seem like enough
You need a branded 8mm hex key.
Oil pressure sensor
