Replacement of anti-roll bar elements for Lada Granta

What are stabilizer bushings used for?

The answer to the question: “Why are stabilizer bushings needed?” very simple. The main purpose of this car part is that it will influence the noise produced by the suspension while the vehicle is moving, reducing it. It is also used to attach the stabilizer to the body of your car.

A special feature of this part is its elasticity. Due to the fact that it is made of materials such as polyurethane or rubber, you will not hear any sounds when changing the height of the wheel. The choice of these materials allows you to attach the stabilizer to the body, despite the constant change in the distance between them that occurs during bending.

Note! The shape of the stabilizer is similar for most cars, but can be modified due to design features.

Replacing “daisies” (silent blocks of the lever), bushings and stabilizer struts on a Lada Granta

Problems with silent blocks and levers manifest themselves in the form of extraneous sounds, as well as knocks that come into the cabin while driving. Among other things, you can understand that the chassis needs repairs by deteriorating the driving performance of the car, as well as reducing the comfort of movement.

Often, faulty silent blocks or levers are discovered during an attempt to adjust the wheel alignment. If there are malfunctions in the chassis, this adjustment is impossible.

From this article you will learn how to repair the chassis of a Lada Granta, namely: replace the silent blocks of the lever (“daisies”), as well as the struts and stabilizer bushings with your own hands.

For work, it is necessary to prepare new spare parts, as well as a set of keys (“17”, “19”), a vice (press), WD-40 and other auxiliary tools “for every fireman”. It is better to work on a lift or you will have to hang the wheels one by one.

Why change stabilizer bushings?

If you do not take care of timely replacement of stabilizer bushings, the following will happen. When entering a turn or driving on a road with an uneven surface, the vibration of the suspension that occurs during these actions will not be dampened. The finishing of the stabilizer bar on the car will also worsen.

You can drive with such faults for quite a long time, but this will wear out the life of your suspension and the entire car much faster. In addition, the failure of stabilizers leads to the appearance of rather unpleasant noises.

How to identify a faulty stabilizer link before it breaks on the highway

The average lifespan of stabilizer struts on a Lada Grant is 40-50,000 km, however, if budget segment components are installed or used on roads with insufficient surface quality, the replacement procedure may be required much earlier. The most pronounced signs of deterioration of stabilizer struts are the following factors:

• When driving straight at low speed, the car wobbles its wheels;
• When driving at low speed, the car spontaneously deviates from the set course;
• There is a strong vibration load on the steering wheel or an increased consumption of power steering fluids is observed;
• When driving near maximum speed, the vehicle's suspension begins to sway;
• There are creaks or impacts in the area of ​​the ball, strut or wheel of the car.

Remember, if these factors are present during operation of your car, it is necessary to diagnose the chassis. The best option would be to check at a service station, but the inspection procedure can also be carried out at home - all you need to do is:

• Turn the car's steering wheel all the way and try to turn the wheel, holding the disc with your hands - the feeling of play when the wheel moves indicates that the base of the joint and the wheel hub are worn down. This factor reduces vehicle controllability;
• Next, we try to rock the car by chronologically pressing on the wheel liner - successful completion indicates serious deterioration of the struts. In this case, it is prohibited to operate the car until the chassis is completely repaired;
• Then we inspect the stabilizer struts for deformation - worn bushings or leaks of technical fluids also require prompt replacement of components.

By making it a rule to carry out a full diagnostic inspection every 10,000 km, you will completely protect yourself from accidental breakdowns or critical situations on the road, and will also increase the life of the vehicle as a whole. Remember, timely replacement of components will cost much less than emergency repair of the system after the fact.

How to identify signs of wear on stabilizer bushings?

The occurrence of the following malfunctions during vehicle operation will indicate a malfunction of the stabilizer bushings:

• The first warning sign when the bushing fails will be the appearance of noise and knocking in the suspension when the car is moving. The difference from faults with shock absorbers will be that the suspension will knock not only when passing uneven surfaces, but also when entering turns with a small radius. Moreover, the road surface in this case may be in good condition and not contain any unevenness;
• If you do not pay attention to the knocking sound in the suspension and continue to drive the car, the situation will begin to worsen. The noise in the suspension will increase and will be caused by any change in the position of the suspension. This will happen due to an increase in cracks and deformation of the stabilizer bushings;
• the next step will be the appearance of a large roll of the car when making turns with a small radius. The body will sway violently;
• In some cars, play in the steering wheel may occur. This is due to their design features;
• Further ignoring the situation will lead to the car's controllability deteriorating. The car may start to move from side to side when trying to make any maneuver.

You should not bring your car to this state, because this endangers not only your life, but also the safety of other road users.

Important! Most stabilizer bushings have a service life of 30 to 40 thousand kilometers. Do not exceed this figure and risk your safety.

If you do not have the opportunity to take the car to a service center for diagnostics, you can verify that the bushings are faulty on your own. To do this you need:

• find an overpass or pit for inspection. In this case, you should not use jacks or lifts. The fact is that the test will be accompanied by strong rocking of the car and strong physical impact on the stabilizer. Because of this, the car may lose stability and jump off these devices. At best, this can result in injury, at worst, death. Therefore, to ensure maximum safety, it is recommended to use overpasses and pits;
• Next, a visual assessment of the condition of the rubber bands is carried out. If any cracks or breaks are detected, such a part must be replaced;
• Next, you need to make a strong physical impact on the stabilizer. Tug it in different directions. Creaks and noise accompanying this action will indicate the need to replace the bushing.

Determining the suitability of a bearing on a Lada Granta

The first thing to do is determine whether the bearing has failed.

The reasons for bearing failure can be various:

— the life of the part has expired; - not a quality product. You're just out of luck; - driving on bad roads. Unfortunately, we have enough of them. - fast movement over potholes and potholes; — bearing overheating — lubricant has leaked; — the influence of an aggressive environment. Salt on the roads in winter. The combination of these factors leads to the need to replace the part.

There are two options for determining the malfunction:

1.Directly while the car is moving. 2.In your garage, more thoroughly.

I prefer to follow the first and then confirm with the second. What should be done? Open the car windows. At speeds up to 40 km/h, listen carefully for the sound in the rear hub area. If there is a grinding noise, howling or whistling, this is the first sign indicating a faulty part.

Increase your speed. If the howling stops and appears periodically, then you should think about replacing it. Vibration in the rear of the cabin also indicates this.

You can also make sure by carefully placing your palm on the hub body. Feeling increased warmth is another sign

We do the following: In the garage, we put the car on a jack and spin the wheel. If you hear creaking, crackling and play, the bearing definitely needs to be replaced. After diagnosing the car, you decide to replace the part. To do this, you need to choose it correctly.

How to change stabilizer bushings?

Repair of rubber bushings is cheap and can be carried out at a service center with the help of experienced specialists. This procedure should not put a big dent in your budget. If you prefer to carry out repairs on your own or you do not have the opportunity to visit a service center in the near future, then you need to perform the following steps:

• drive the car to a pit or overpass. You can use a lift or jack, but these are less reliable and safe methods;
• loosen the wheel bolts next to which the faulty parts are located, and then remove them;
• the next step is to remove the nuts that secure the strut to the stabilizer. At the end of this procedure, disconnect the strut and stabilizer;
• Next, you should pay attention to the bracket mounting bolts. The rear ones need to be loosened and the front ones unscrewed;
• The next step is to remove dirt and clean the installation area for the new stabilizer bushings. Carry out this procedure carefully, because the service life of the new bushings will depend on the quality of its implementation;
• Lubricate the bushings on the inside. To do this, you can use silicone spray or regular soap solution;
• insert new bushings into their mounting location and return the vehicle to its original condition.

Note! Some car models, due to their design features, require removal of the crankcase protection.

The most difficult part is the process of replacing the front bushings of the vehicle. During its implementation, additional difficulties may arise due to the design features.

Replacing stabilizer struts at home: servicing Granta correctly

The work of installing new struts on Grant is not difficult due to the absence of complications in the design of the chassis - you can replace components with new ones with your own hands and without specialized knowledge. The entire scope of work will require no more than 1.5 hours of time to replace each element, as well as the availability of sockets or wrenches, a jack and hexagonal Torx, which come with the car. To replace the racks you need:

First, prepare the vehicle for safe servicing, namely, park it on a level area and place wheel chocks under the wheels of a bridge that cannot be repaired. Next, squeeze the handbrake and engage any gear using the selector;

Note! After lifting the car with a jack, the car's suspension system will lose the force of dynamic tension, which will relax the struts to the maximum - the hand brake allows you to fix the suspension in a stable position and secure the repair procedure. Remember, without the handbrake on, it is quite difficult to pull the rack out of the raised position!

Upon completion of the preparation procedures, we lift the required part of the vehicle with a jack and dismantle the wheel and brake mechanism. For convenience, the brake mechanism does not need to be completely removed - just unscrew the upper fastenings and release the lower ones, then turn the structure to the side; Next, we get to the racks and clean all the dirt from the parts, after which we treat the fixation units with WD-40 liquid. Under no circumstances try to unscrew the oxidized nuts - the licked threads will force you to cut out the struts along with the fasteners, which will significantly increase the repair time and require disassembling the entire chassis; After the mount is loosened, carefully unscrew the fixing nuts and pull out the racks. If the springs are old and have sagged a lot, you can raise the suspension using a second jack - just install the device directly under the car's axle and lift the suspension. Now you can install a new rack, but before installation it is recommended to clean the entire suspension from traces of scale or deposits, and also treat it with a Motul-type anti-corrosion agent

When installing components, it is important to replace all damaged nuts, as well as pre-lubricate all fastening elements with any technical compound - this will significantly increase the service life of the new part; At the end of the maintenance procedure, we assemble the entire structure according to these instructions in the reverse order. The remaining stabilizer struts along the entire perimeter of the vehicle are changed in a similar way, regardless of the structural location of the bridge.

This is interesting! To carry out a similar procedure on domestic cars, service station employees ask for approximately $10 for each element, which significantly increases the cost of servicing the car.

Replacing struts with your own hands does not require specialized skills and is carried out according to an intuitive scenario, which allows you to save a lot on car maintenance without losing the quality of the final result - it’s better to buy struts of higher quality than to overpay for such a simple operation!

What can cause stabilizer bushings to fail?

The main reason why these parts wear out is the strong impact on them during machine operation of the following factors:

• exposure to chemicals. It occurs due to its close location to the wheels of the car. During movement, various chemical compounds come into contact with the open parts of the bushings. The most dangerous of them are substances used in winter to remove ice on the road. They have a strong impact on the structure of the bushings, promoting their drying out and the appearance of cracks;
• strong mechanical impact. The quality of roads in each region differs from each other. However, even in the most favorable areas there are many trails whose quality leaves much to be desired. Accordingly, the more the car is used on roads with serious damage, the faster the strength of the parts is consumed. This happens due to the increase in friction that occurs when the suspension compensates for uneven road surfaces;
• the quality of the material from which the bushings are made. Typically, even the best rubber bushings have a relatively short service life. But most manufacturers install them on their cars. Therefore, when replacing old bushings with new ones, experts recommend using products made on the basis of polyurethane. These products have a significantly greater safety margin and will last you significantly longer.

Guys, tell me if the egg stabilizer stands are suitable for the VAZ grant

Hi all. Guys, tell me if the stabilizer struts (eggs) are suitable for the grant from the VAZ 2110 or 2108? I looked in the store and there was a small hole for the stabilizer itself.

16 comments on “Guys, tell me if the egg stabilizer stands are suitable for the grant from VAZ”

They set it to eight, they barely pulled it, both broke after 3 months, they installed the original ones, and everything has been fine since November.

Elena, thank you. I will look for ss20 or original grant ones.

Elena, the knocking noise comes precisely from the stabilizer struts when it’s finished.

Konstantin, yes, they were the ones that were knocking, the rubber bands dried out after 2 years of driving, and the replacement ones broke in half

Elena, what changers. The new ones I installed broke on accident.

Konstantin, yes, the metal burst, they were not original, they were figure eight, they were very tight to put on

Elena, I barely pulled it today, I think I’ll let it sit until I buy the original one!

Konstantin, don’t worry, I drove with a broken strut for a month, and I didn’t know that it was dangling until my husband got behind the wheel and was amazed why the car was throwing itself from side to side like a dog. We stood on the pit, and there was a SURPRISE!

They are Grantov, there are 2 types, 2190 and 2192. 22mm and 24mm. 24mm is liftback and luxury

No, the grants have a larger stub in diameter.

Seryoga, thank you, I have exactly 2192

Seryoga, 24 mm is a luxury liftback and Kalina-2. On liftback standard and norm 22 mm

Evgeniy, That’s what it said on the box.

Elena, yesterday I changed the eggs and it turns out the clicking didn’t go away, I went on business in the evening and it still clicks! Today I want to change the bushing, can it still be done?

Konstantin, unfortunately I don’t know, I had a dull knock, so my husband, from his experience, definitely said that these were stabilizer struts, maybe he guessed, maybe he knows...

The clicks seem to be coming from behind

What tools may be needed when replacing stabilizers yourself?

Performing this work will not require the driver to use high-tech devices. To do this you need to have the following tools:

• jack;
• extension for key;
• socket wrench for 10 and 13;
• ruler;
• socket heads for 13 and 14. Preferably elongated;
• ratchet wrench.

This is the minimum required set of tools, without which you definitely cannot carry out repairs. However, you may need an additional set. This need may arise when removing the fastening nuts. The fact is that during operation they can stick to the part. In this case, you may need a grinder or a hacksaw. You need to use these tools very carefully, because you can damage the stabilizer links. If this happens, then you will need to change them too.

Which stabilizer struts are best to buy on Vesta

When choosing a replacement for the original, you must consider the length of the stand. It is measured between the centers of the ball pins and for a standard (not lowered or lifted) suspension it is 275 mm. The length must be strictly observed, since if the distance between the centers of the fingers does not match, the stabilizer will not work correctly. For example, by installing a strut just 10 mm longer, we will regularly hear the sound of the strut hitting the lever when driving over bumps. In addition, it will fail within a maximum of 15-20 thousand km.

Old original stabilizer link and new one from RAV4, difference 10 mm

If the suspension parameters have been changed, the ground clearance has been lowered or increased, the strut should be selected taking into account the changed ground clearance. It is highly not recommended to buy racks from little-known manufacturers, and judging by the reviews, users are not too fond of Belmag racks. Also, for the reasons mentioned above, you should not install racks from Toyota RAV4 with a length of 285 mm, neither the original Toyota ones (48820-42020), nor their analogues.

The article number of the original VAZ stub rack is 8450006750, the price is about $10-11. However, their quality is questioned by many owners. Based on public feedback, racks from the following manufacturers are most often purchased:

• STR CLMZ 19, tolerable quality, price within the original;
• full analogue of Renault 8200 669 065 ;
• SASIC 4005146 ;
• LEMFORDER 28334 01 ;
• SIDEM, article 19061, price about $15;
• Trek, part number SL70-198, $10 each;
• FEBI 12768;
• MONROE L15600.

It is very important to remember that it is highly recommended to replace the racks in pairs, while the nuts also necessarily require replacement, since they are not intended for reuse. https://www.youtube.com/embed/LVrEJpHdm_g

Conclusion

Despite the simplicity of eliminating this type of malfunction, perform all actions with the utmost care. Especially in cases where a jack is involved in the process.

Any careless movement can end in disaster. If possible, contact a service center where your car will be repaired quickly and inexpensively, without endangering your health and the condition of the vehicle.

Elements in the design of a car that perform the function of ensuring stability while driving on the road are called stabilizers. To ensure silent, soft and smooth operation, stabilizers are installed on bushings. Stabilizer bushings are relatively soft and elastic rubber parts.

When should I replace the front stabilizer bar bushings?

By carrying out a visual inspection of the stabilizer bushings from time to time, you can identify their wear. If there are cracks on the bushing, or the shape has changed (there are large abrasions), then the stabilizer bushings must be replaced.

The service life of stabilizer bushings for most brands and models of cars is 30 thousand km. If only one bushing is worn out, it is recommended to replace the complete set in order to increase the time between overhauls for replacing bushings.

If dirt is visible during visual inspection, it is better to clean them, thereby protecting them from accelerated wear.

Signs when it is necessary to change the stabilizer bushings in a car:

• if there is wheel play when turning;
• if the steering wheel shakes;
• if there are squeaks when the car tilts (roll);
• if the suspension vibrates (there is extraneous noise);
• if when driving straight the car pulls to the left or right;
• and, if at all, there is instability while driving.

These signs, first of all, indicate wear of the stabilizer bushings. The same signs may also be accompanied by wear of silent blocks. Such problems are eliminated by replacing the silent blocks of the front levers and subsequent work on wheel alignment. Therefore, you should check them and carry out repair work with your own or someone else’s hands to replace the stabilizer bushings. Play can also appear if the wheel is severely imbalanced. It disrupts the balancing when hitting a hole, or, for example, when pumping sealant into a tubeless wheel to close a puncture.

Causes of knocking in the front suspension

In total, there are four main reasons why noises and squeaks can annoy the Lada Kalina car owner, and three of them can be eliminated independently and everything can be returned to a safe state.

1. The first reason why knocking occurs in the suspension is the poor quality of the road surface . A suspension that is in good working order can also produce some extraneous noise. If the noise disappears when you drive onto a good road, then everything is fine with your suspension, you can move on to the point below.
2. If knocking and simultaneous vibration occur in the steering wheel, the reason may lie in a faulty steering rack . If you can tighten the steering rack yourself, then it is better to entrust its repair or replacement to professionals.
3. The third reason is the front suspension strut spring that has lost its elasticity . Since the spring tone is significantly reduced, the suspension hits directly against the body. How to change the front struts, and along with it the spring, is described in detail in this article.
4. And the last reason is cracked silent blocks, which are simply necessary to thoroughly dampen knocks and vibrations that occur while driving. Read below for information on how to properly replace these front suspension elements.

To complete the work, you will need an inspection ditch or overpass.

How to change the front stabilizer bushings of a car

Although there are a huge number of brands and models of cars, the principle and procedure for replacing front bushings is practically the same. The main difference is in the tools used.

The correct procedure for replacing the front bushings is:

1. Place the car on a lift (if available) or place it above an inspection hole.
2. Loosen the front wheel bolts.
3. Remove the wheels.
4. Then the nuts securing the struts to the stabilizer should be unscrewed.
5. Disconnect the struts from the stabilizer.
6. Then the rear bracket mounting bolts should be loosened and the front bolts should be unscrewed.
7. Clean the bushing installation areas from dirt.
8. New bushings should be lubricated on the inside with soapy water or silicone grease.
9. Install the bushings and perform the reverse steps to disassembly.

In some car designs, it will be more convenient to replace the front bushings if you first remove the engine crankcase protection.

The rear stabilizer bushings are changed in the same way as the front ones. Usually, the front ones are more difficult to remove than the rear ones. When the rear bushings wear out, a squeak appears.

Replacing silent blocks on Kalina

Front suspension silent block close up

The silent blocks on the Lada Kalina car are located exactly the same as in the VAZs of previous years. These elements are located generally on the wishbone or adjacent to it. You will have to change them either on the entire element at once, or by selecting the most damaged ones. Of course, if there is damage on one of them, the wishbone with rubber (stock – approx.) stabilizers must be removed and replaced with polyurethane analogues.

Removing the wishbone

1. In order to begin work on replacing old silent blocks with new ones, you need to place the car on a viewing hole, a lift, or jack it up.
2. Next, you need to remove the wheel and spray all the connections on the wishbone with WD-40.
3. After the lubricant has penetrated into all hard-to-reach places, we begin to unscrew the bolts.
4. First of all, we begin to dismantle the ball joint bolt, but before that we remove the cotter pin from the bolt.
5. Then we unscrew the bolt securing the longitudinal tension hinge (where the “daisies” are attached - approx.) and remove it from the seat.

A generously lubricated bolt is a guarantee of success.

When dismantling this unit, there should be no problems.

For the best impact on the bolt, you can use a wrench extension.

Rubber-metal longitudinal tension joint

The rubber-metal longitudinal tension joint, or popularly simply “daisy”, is designed to take the brunt of the impact from uneven road surfaces; despite the fact that this element is very important, it is very easy to dismantle.

1. Having previously clamped the lever in a vice, we knock out the silent blocks one by one using a chisel or a thin flat screwdriver.

Punching out “daisies” is not an easy task.

Creak of stabilizer bushings

The driver and passengers often feel a squeaking sound when the car is moving. They especially begin to creak in severe frosts.

Let's look at the reasons why bushings squeak:

1. The bushings were made of low grade material.
2. In the cold, rubber becomes like oak and loses elasticity, which is why squeaks appear.
3. The bushing is badly worn.

Ways to eliminate the creaking of car stabilizer bushings:

Logically, in order to eliminate the squeak, you need to lubricate the bushings, which is what some drivers do. But lubricant, be it lithol 24, various oils, silicone grease - all this attracts dust and sand. Adhering abrasives will only cause the bushings to wear out quickly.

Also, lubrication will lead to a partial loss of function of the bushings themselves, since they must tightly hold the stabilizers. The bushings are torsional and therefore protect against vehicle roll. For the bushings to function properly, they need to be seated tightly. And, if you lubricate them, they will already slide and can rotate.

Why do you need a stabilizer?

Before understanding the direct role of bushings, you need to understand what the purpose of the stabilizer on a car is. As can be understood from the name of this element, it stabilizes the position of the car. The stabilizer is activated every time the car turns and brakes. When turning, there is a risk of lateral roll, and when braking, longitudinal roll, and in each of these situations the stabilizer does everything to keep the car parallel to the road surface.

The stabilizer is structurally a conventional rod that connects the subframe to the wheel mount (we can say that with the suspension arm, if we are talking about the MacPherson front suspension). In MacPherson suspension, the camber angle is static, and it changes when the car rolls. Changing the camber angle certainly leads to a decrease in the area of ​​contact between the tire and the road. To minimize the risk of such a situation occurring, you need to reduce the roll force, which is what the stabilizer does. In fact, we can say that it takes on the role of a torsion bar: at the slightest probability of lateral roll, the transverse ends located in the levers begin to move in different directions, thereby twisting the middle part. The moment that occurs during such movement is sufficient to prevent the continuation of the relative movement of the wheels, which reduces the roll.

Replacing the anti-roll bar on a LADA

The suspension parts of the LADA “Kalina” wear out when driving on uneven roads and require periodic replacement. The Kalina anti-roll bar is a strong and durable part that requires replacement only as a result of an accident. The repair of this unit consists of replacing the bushings, the rubber of which does not withstand long-term use on our roads.

What is anti-roll bar LADA “Kalina”

The suspension of the LADA Kalina, like any modern car, includes an anti-roll bar. This is a rod with a round cross-section. The part, made of high-strength spring steel, is attached to the body with clamps at two points through rubber bushings.

Taking into account the location of components and assemblies located in the lower part of the car, the stabilizer has a complex shape, vaguely reminiscent of a U-shaped one. The ends of the stabilizer are connected by wheel suspension arms to redistribute the load between them.

When a lateral body roll occurs, one end of the stabilizer goes down, the other goes up, and the middle part twists, providing resistance. The more the Kalina rolls, the stronger the counteraction of the stabilizer,

The Kalina transverse stabilizer does not interfere with vertical and horizontal vibrations of the body while driving. Its task is to reduce roll when turning and improve wheel adhesion to the road surface.

Signs of malfunction of the anti-roll bar LADA “Kalina”

Malfunctions of the suspension stabilizer appear when cornering and driving over uneven roads. The cause of the malfunction is broken bushings or poor tightening of the nuts of the clamps holding the stabilizer bar. This manifests itself as follows:

• there is a knocking noise under the hood when driving through potholes and potholes;
• the car begins to “go to the side” when driving in a straight line and you have to constantly adjust its trajectory (this is especially noticeable at speed);
• the car sways and rolls heavily when turning or braking;
• Excessive roll appears during maneuvering.

You can independently check the bushings and stabilizer mounts as follows:

1. turn the wheels to the side until they stop, freeing up space in the wheel well;
2. grab the Kalina stabilizer with your hand and pull strongly in different directions;
3. If there is the slightest play, the stabilizer bushings must be replaced.

A more detailed analysis of the condition can be made by driving the car onto a pit or lift. This way you can determine exactly where the knocking is coming from and which part needs to be replaced.

What is needed to replace the Kalina stabilizer

To replace the anti-roll bar you will need:

• standard set of socket wrenches (socket wrenches can be used);
• WD-40 liquid;
• jack;
• special device (extension);
• hammer;
• stabilizer bushings “Kalina”;
• stabilizer's pole;
• stabilizer bar.

To access the mounts of the struts and stabilizer, you must place the car on a viewing hole or a lift.

How to replace the Kalina stabilizer

To replace the bushings and stabilizer on a car, you need to perform the following steps:

• install the car on a lift or inspection hole (in the latter case, you need to place wheel chocks under the wheels);
• treat threaded connections with WD-40;
• unscrew the left and right nuts securing the stabilizer struts;
• unscrew the nuts holding the left and right stabilizer mounting clamps;
• dismantle the struts, bar and stabilizer brackets;
• Unscrew the nuts securing the stabilizer links to the arms;
• knock the stabilizer struts off the rod using a polymer or wooden hammer;
• inspect the stabilizer pads (bushings) and, if necessary, replace them with new ones;
• inspect the condition of the stabilizer bar;
• if the ends of the rod are in different planes or it has other signs of deformation, a new rod should be used;
• inspect the condition of the stabilizer struts and their bushings;
• replace worn bushings and deformed struts with new ones;
• lubricate the threaded connections with graphite lubricant;
• install the bar and stabilizer pads on the car;
• tighten the nuts of the stabilizer mounting clamps;

Tip: when using split pads, the nuts must be tightened until the gap in them is eliminated. To do this, first tighten the front, then the rear fastening nut.

• tighten the nuts holding the Kalina stabilizer struts;
• if the replacement work was carried out on a lift, it is necessary to lower the car to load the wheels;
• make a final tightening of the threaded connections of the clamps and stabilizer struts (4.5-5.3 kgf and 1.3-1.6 kgf, respectively).

Purpose of stabilizer bushings

Stabilizer bushings are extremely important for the proper operation of the entire mechanism. Since the stabilizer must be able to twist from multidirectional forces on the left and right wheels, it is usually secured with bushings. During operation, the stabilizer bushings begin to wear out, and backlash occurs, which leads to improper operation of the entire mechanism, increasing the freedom of the part. If you do not take any action to eliminate the play (replacing stabilizer bushings), all meaning in the operation of the stabilizer will disappear - the car will begin to roll in turns.

Originals, analogues, article number, price of stabilizer strut for VAZ 2110

Technical data: length 110 x width 32 mm.

Stand structure: base, metal tip, rubber boot, lock ring. Nuts and washers are not supplied, the owner must purchase them separately. Thread pitch 1.25, diameter 8.0, length 60.0 mm.

Before purchasing consumables, be sure to check the compatibility of the catalog items specified in the operating instructions.