VAZ 2107, 4-door sedan, 71 hp, manual transmission, 1982 - 2012 - grinding, knocking (whistle) when starting the engine

Friends, hello everyone. Need your advice regarding the front suspension. In general, a “rubber” squeak appeared in the area of the front left wheel when turning the steering wheel, especially when turning the wheels to the right. The creaking is periodic, sometimes it appears, sometimes it disappears, but it creaks quite strongly. I took off the wheel, started looking, and found a stabilizer bushing that had been twisted inside out, and a torn steering tip boot. I shook the steering rod - there is play, the tip is dead, I will replace the entire trapezoid in the near future. I checked the balls with a pry bar - they seemed to be alive. By the way, there is no knocking noise when driving.

So the question is: can a steering tip make such a skip sound, or is it still a ball joint? Thank you all in advance for your answers!))

When the steering wheel creaks when turning, the driver immediately perceives this sound as a signal to troubleshoot. This is logical, because most often extraneous noise occurs due to a malfunction of any systems or wear of parts. In addition, if the steering wheel creaks when rotating, this creates the risk of an accident, which can lead to dire consequences.

The main causes of squeaking when driving straight and braking

Steering problems.

A creaking sound in the front suspension when driving can manifest itself as a metallic grinding sound that occurs during braking in the area of the front right and left wheels. Most often it is caused by severe wear of the ball joints of the steering rods, which experience additional loads when the brakes are applied frequently. It is necessary to check these parts and replace them immediately - they cannot be repaired.

Severe contamination or wear of the brake pads

also causes squeaking and squealing in the front of the car. A similar noise appears when new friction linings are installed on a car, but with an uneven working surface - this indicates the low quality of these consumables. They wear out quite quickly, unevenly, and when braking, it is the base of the pads that rubs against the disc, not the friction clutch. That is, metal rubs against metal, which leads to a strong and unpleasant grinding noise.

However, there are cases when squeaking in the front suspension is caused by burning brake pads. The problem is solved by removing carbon deposits using fine sandpaper. In addition, with significant abrasion of the pads, the caliper working cylinders can be squeezed out and become jammed. This, in turn, provokes further cutting of the brake discs. Therefore, if a malfunction is detected, you should change the brake pads on four wheels, and not on one or two, simultaneously checking the degree of wear of adjacent parts.

Some motorists, in pursuit of savings, purchase non-original spare parts instead of those designed for a specific car model. However, before you pay for parts, you must make sure that they are used correctly. In addition, if after repairing the chassis a creaking noise appears in the front suspension, it may indicate improper installation of the brake pads.

Caliper malfunction. As a rule, the problem appears due to a malfunction of the caliper working cylinder - due to depressurization, it jams, the brake pad is constantly in contact with the disc, and a strong grinding noise occurs. In such cases, you need to check the boots with cuffs, and if there is the slightest suspicion of a defect, you should replace the cylinder of the assembly itself and the boot

And after restoration work, it is very important to bleed the car’s brake system, which may become airtight due to a leak.

Pad clamping is another item on the list of problems that arise due to defective calipers. To repair them, you need to disassemble them and use a crowbar to return the pads to their original position. Then, with the brake pedal pressed, this procedure is repeated. Of course, you cannot carry out this procedure alone; you will definitely need an assistant. And before starting work, it is advisable to treat the caliper with an aerosol specially designed for it. If the working cylinder of the unit does not return to its original position, reduce the pressure in the brake system by slightly loosening the bleed valve

And it is important not to forget to add brake fluid to the system after completing the repair.

It happens that the source of creaking in the front suspension is bent guide pins. After all, after a powerful blow to the front wheels, these chassis elements are not able to fully perform their intended function and need to be replaced. Moreover, extraneous sounds with this defect manifest themselves when the car falls into a deep hole.

Creaks under the hood and near the wheels

Creaks coming from the engine compartment and from the wheels can come from both steering and suspension components. These sounds are more dangerous because they indicate problems with these nodes.

If a creaking noise comes from under the hood when turning the steering wheel, it is necessary to diagnose the condition of the steering mechanism. Misadjustment of the rack-gear engagement, wear of bushings and sealing elements often causes extraneous sounds. Here it is impossible to do without repair and adjustment work.

Most often the sounds come from the wheels. Here you should start by checking the tie rod ends. If, upon inspection, damaged anthers are found, the tips will have to be replaced, since the ball elements have already worn out due to dust.

Next, the reason should be sought in the components of the suspension. First, we check the condition of the ball joints of the levers. These elements are activated when the wheels are turned, so they can also become a source of sound.

Then we carefully inspect the shock absorber struts. Often the sound appears because of the anthers. Here the situation is the same as with the steering shaft boots. Rubber gradually loses elasticity or they were originally made of a hard material, so when you turn the steering wheel due to friction, the anthers creak. To eliminate sounds, you can try to treat them with silicone grease, but if this helps, it will only be temporary.

The next element that is worth checking in search of the source of the sound is the strut supports, since they also take part in turning the wheels. Their design uses bearings, which gradually wear out and under certain conditions can create a squeaking sound. These suspension components cannot be repaired, so when they wear out they are replaced.

Other steering components

When the steering wheel squeaks when rotating, wear of other control parts cannot be ruled out. In particular, the reasons may be the following:

Damage to the boots on the steering rod joints. If sand or dirt gets inside due to a leaky boot, this can cause a grinding or characteristic squeak. The integrity of these parts can be checked manually. If they are leaky, they will need to be replaced. It is also worth checking the tie rod end boots. Sand getting into them can also cause the Opel steering wheel to squeak when turning. This also applies to other imported or Russian-made cars.
Worn steering joints. This problem causes not only a squeak, but also a knocking sound at the initial stage of turning the steering wheel. Worn hinges are never restored, but replaced immediately.

Lack of lubrication or presence of sand in the steering knuckle bearings. This is accompanied by strong heating of the bearings, which leads to creaking and whistling. The problem is solved by adding lubricant.

Crunching sound (steering wheel turns when driving; car with front-wheel drive)

It happens that when the direction of movement of the car changes, a strong crunching sound is heard. The greater the turning speed and the narrower the radius, the more pronounced it is. There is a feeling that the steering wheel does not play any role here, and that it is the turn itself that is to blame, that the crunch is heard in the area of the loaded wheel (remember that this is the wheel from the outer radius of the turning curve). Most often, this picture is characteristic of turning only in one direction.

Only all-wheel drive vehicles or vehicles with front-wheel drive suffer from such problems. The culprit for this is the constant velocity joint, which in our country is called the “grenade”.

This hinge is a prefabricated element that serves to rotate the front wheel along any axes at a certain angle, without losing the constant speed of the axle. When the car moves, the CV joint rotates all the time, experiencing heavy loads. From time to time, this part runs out of service prematurely, in which case it will need to be replaced.

Checking the “grenade” looks like this. The steering wheel must be turned to one side all the way. After this, you should start moving the car in a circle - in one direction, then in the other. The crunching noise heard during such an operation means that the CV joint is the culprit. If there is vibration that may accompany such a crunching noise, the car must be taken to a professional mechanic without delay.

The so-called boot protects the CV joint from dirt and dust. Often, wear of the “grenade” occurs due to damage to the boot. Actually, the sound of a crunch means that either particles of sand or dirt have penetrated through the boot into the CV joint and the joint begins to grind it all, or the crunch is caused by the collapse of the bearings inside the CV joint.

The machine is not the simplest mechanism. Its steering system and suspension include a huge mass of elements. The suspension and steering differ in their functionality, design, and elements (and differences may appear from model to model; differences may even exist in modifications). For this reason, various noises do not need to be produced only for the reasons described above. For example, noise can be caused by the steering rack, steering column, steering knuckles, struts and joints. An old, falling-off element, which is not directly related to either the suspension or steering, can touch parts of the above systems during a turning maneuver or on road irregularities, causing noise.

In any case, the main thing you need to do when you hear an extraneous sound accompanying the turning of the steering wheel is to determine the other signs accompanying the noise (the car is pulling to the side, a more specific definition of noise). After this, it is necessary to check each boot of the suspension and steering systems, inspect the steering wheel, and check for play.

Ball and CV joints

The ball joint, or rather its wear, can cause squeaks and knocks when turning the steering wheel, both in place and in motion. It is better to change the support immediately, because the danger of its complete failure at high speed is very, very high. The key to long service life of ball joints, like many other components of a car, is adequate driving, especially on roads that are so called, quite arbitrarily. Well, keeping an eye on the condition of the anthers can also significantly extend the service life of these units.

CV joint or constant velocity joint is directly involved in the transmission of torque from the gearbox to the wheel. And just one of the signs of CV joint failure is a crunching sound when turning the steering wheel; this is the needle bearing complaining of its hard lot. CV joints can be external and internal and, as a rule, it is the external hinges that crunch. If you know for sure that the cause of the crunching is in the constant velocity joint, then you should not panic right away. Sometimes the CV joint crunches five or even ten thousand kilometers and only then does it become necessary to replace it. Or perhaps you should change the boot, renew the CV joint lubrication and it will last for quite a long time.

Common causes of occurrence, noise elimination techniques

The driver of any vehicle should perceive extraneous creaking or grinding noises in the car’s mechanisms as an alarming signal. After all, we are often talking about mechanical wear of an element or its failure, which threatens loss of steering control.

A grinding noise when turning the steering wheel in place and in motion can be caused by a number of problems in the following components:

errors when performing the wheel alignment procedure;
steering rack;
steering column;
power steering;
CV joints;
ball joints;
silent blocks;
plastic elements of the interior and body.

Depending on where the sound appears, you need to analyze the problem and fix it.

In most cases of malfunctions, you will have to contact specialists, since troubleshooting the problem yourself will be difficult due to the complexity of the vehicle design and the risk of errors.

Incorrect vehicle alignment

If the source of squeaking when turning and while parking when twisting the steering wheel is the tires, then there is a high probability that the problem lies not in the steering itself, but in incorrect alignment.

Incorrect installation of the front pair of wheels will immediately affect the service life of the rubber: uneven wear will quickly cause it to fail. Therefore, when diagnosing wheel alignment errors, it is recommended to immediately contact a tire shop and repeat this procedure. It is better to use electronic equipment, since in this case errors in setting the correct position of a pair of wheels will be minimized.

Problems with the steering rack and steering column

One of the most common causes of a grinding noise when turning the steering wheel left or right is a malfunction of the steering rack. The creaking of the rack or column is accompanied by strong vibration on the steering wheel. If the noise and vibration are not strong, then further operation of the vehicle is permitted. However, as you drive, the symptoms of wear on the control elements intensify, which makes replacing the mechanism a necessary procedure.

The steering rack on cars produced in the last decade is a very complex mechanism. The car owner can only inspect the boots and determine their condition, but it is advisable to entrust a more in-depth analysis of the problem and repair work to professionals. The slightest mistake when repairing or replacing this mechanism can result in loss of control at high speed, so it is highly not recommended to fix the malfunction yourself.

Tie rod ends creaking

The steering linkage may also creak due to deformation of the anthers. If the boot is torn, sand can get into the tip through it, which causes squeaks. When inspecting the unit, it will be necessary to identify breaks.

The fault can only be eliminated by replacing a pair of tie rod ends with all components. The replacement can be done on your own if the car owner has the skills to independently maintain his vehicle.

In rare cases, the tie rod end may make unusual sounds due to friction with adjacent mechanisms. It will be necessary to adjust the position of the tips and replace the anthers. If one tip in a pair shows signs of wear, then the entire pair is replaced.

Ball and CV joint grinding

After several years of use, the ball joint wears out and begins to grind when moving. It is important to notice this sound in a timely manner and replace the support, since there is a danger of its failure when moving at high speed. It is also recommended to periodically check the condition of the boots, the tightness of which largely determines the service life of the ball joint.

If the driver hears crunching and grinding noises when turning the steering wheel left and right, then there is a high probability that the CV joint is failing. The bearing needs to be lubricated and the boot needs to be replaced. If the CV joint has mechanical defects, it must be completely replaced: such a part cannot be repaired.

Silent blocks creaking

Creaking when turning the steering wheel in place and while driving can be caused by wear of the silent blocks. As a rule, the rubber components of silent blocks begin to dry out gradually, which is especially noticeable in hot weather.

Causes of squeaking and ways to eliminate it

Drivers consider the appearance of a squeak to be a harbinger of an imminent breakdown of the noisy unit. If the vehicle's chassis is configured correctly, the moving joints should not make any sounds. However, worn friction pairs may creak when moving relative to each other. This phenomenon often occurs in cars with high mileage, but components of a new vehicle can also become noisy. The source of a squeak when the car is stationary cannot always be determined. To find it, car mechanics alternately wet the hinges with penetrating lubricant or water. The disappearance of noise indicates a faulty part.

For your information!

In wet weather, after overcoming deep puddles, the squeak may disappear and appear again after the suspension parts have dried.

Ball joints and ends

Checking the front suspension arms, steering rods, stabilizer struts will allow you to identify a damaged joint. The design of the latter is a steel pin with a sphere at the end, which is clamped in plastic inserts. When the lubricant in the ball joint stops reducing the friction force (it has dried out or been washed out with water), a squeaking noise may appear when the parts move together. Hinge diagnostics:

Inspect the anther. There should be no traces of grease, rust, or damage on it.
Unscrew the hinge and remove the protective cap.
By rotating the pin, inspect the condition of the sphere; the presence of corrosion products, chips, or scuffs on it is not allowed.
Check the play. To do this, vigorously move the finger from side to side. Ease of movement is a sign of excessive wear and the part should be replaced.

After inspecting the hinges, the unsuitable ones are replaced with new ones, and the serviceable ones are filled with fresh lubricant before being installed in place. Assembly procedure for the old one:

The hinge is washed in gasoline or kerosene, thoroughly wiped and dried.
Fill the cavity with new lubricant.
Install the boot on top. If the old one is damaged, you need to install a new one.
Place the hinge in place.

Shock absorbers

In conditions of poor quality road surface, the racks quickly fail. Oil drips near the neck indirectly indicate damage to the shock absorber. The creaking of the latter occurs when the rod rubs against the sealing elements, or at the points of attachment to the suspension units. A little penetrating lubricant applied to the mating surfaces and subsequent movement of the vehicle will help determine the source of the noise. For accurate diagnosis, problem areas are moistened one by one.

Oil shock absorbers are subject to restoration. Other types of racks must be replaced. Repair sequence:

Dismantle the shock absorber.
Disassemble the sealing unit and wash all parts with gasoline.
Inspect the rod, piston and cylinder. Dimensional deviations should not exceed acceptable standards (they are different for each model). If the difference is greater, the working surfaces are bored to the repair size, followed by honing.
Fill the oil to the indicated mark and reassemble everything in the reverse order.
Install a new sealing unit. The latter, if the rod and cylinder are bored, must be of repair size.
Put the shock absorber in place.

Anti-roll bars

Stabilizers are attached to the car body through rubber or polyurethane bushings. The latter allow the parts to rotate around their axis. When materials are abraded, a small gap is formed at the contact point. As a result, the stabilizer creaks and moves freely. To determine the source of the sound, you must use an inspection hole. Positioned near the stabilizer, rock the car. The amplitude of movement is enough to find a noisy place. Worn bushings definitely need to be replaced.

For your information!

If you plan to postpone the repair, you can place a piece of a car or bicycle inner tube under the rubber inserts. This will delay replacing the bushings for a short time.

Silent blocks

This design combines metal clips and rubber bushings. Most often, creaking occurs when they move mutually. The phenomenon is absolutely normal even for new cars. It is not necessary to change the silent blocks; it is enough to inject graphite lubricant into the friction zone using a medical syringe with a needle. The procedure is performed without removing the parts.

A car's suspension is directly related to the safety of the driver and other road users. If a squeak occurs in the suspension area, you should diagnose the chassis elements. Only in this case is it possible to assess the condition of all component nodes.

Conclusions that suggest themselves

As you can see, there are plenty of reasons for the occurrence of third-party noise in the front suspension area. However, most of them do not pose any danger to the further operation of the vehicle. Despite this, experienced auto mechanics advise carrying out a full diagnosis of all elements of the chassis when noise occurs in the suspension area, because only during this process can the condition of all component components be fully assessed.

Restoring the front suspension is not difficult, so any car owner can independently carry out repair work, during which damaged parts will be replaced.

By pouring water on each joint individually, you can determine what is creaking. What it can do: Ball joints Silent blocks Stabilizer rubber bands Tie rod end Spring support Shock absorber bushings

Maybe the spare parts turned out to be left-handed, or maybe they were installed incorrectly. 90 percent are wrong at this point. There are clear rules for installing suspension parts, but many ignore them based on the fact that “it’s a basin.. everything will work anyway, I’m a great super mechanic, I know better”

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Source

Asking an operator for help

Unlike the previous method, you can ask the operator for help an unlimited number of times. But here the user will have to strictly follow the instructions in order to achieve a positive result. Each mobile network operator has its own toll-free technical support number. You need to ask to send the MMS settings to your mobile phone number:

MTS – 0890,
Megafon – 0550,
Motive – 111,
Beeline - 0611.

After ordering settings, you must accept them, and then reboot the device to start using and sending messages. It happens that the service does not connect the first time and requires additional activation. In this case, you need to call technical support again and ask to enable the service for this cell phone number. After all manipulations, graphic messages will be activated.

How to determine the cause of a squeak when turning the steering wheel

The steering mechanism of a car is quite complex, especially if it works in conjunction with a power steering. Because of this, there can be a lot of reasons that lead to squeaking when turning the steering wheel.

Carrying out diagnostic work that will allow you to determine the causes of the squeak should begin with identifying the specific place from which the squeak is heard when turning the steering wheel. To do this, you need to put the car in a hole and ask someone to turn the steering wheel, while listening to sounds from under the car to determine the location of the squeak. Having decided which element is creaking, you can move on to repairs.

Power steering

Note that this unit is the noisiest, and even in a stationary car, when turning the steering wheel, it emits a hum that is clearly audible in the cabin. To fix the problem, you need to add fluid to a special tank under the hood of the car.

However, a lack of fluid does not always cause squeaking. The steering wheel may make sounds when rotating due to wear on the power steering belt, a malfunction of the pump of this system, or air entering the system. A correct “diagnosis” can be made at a service station.

Lost reverse gear on Kalina

Gearbox failures are a fairly common occurrence. However, the problem of missing reverse gear on the Lada Kalina should be considered a “disease”.

The owners of this brand, of course, know what we are talking about. The breakdown algorithm is very simple.

Reverse gear Kalina

You drove up to your destination, parked, and when you needed to leave, the transmission completely refused to move the lever to the reverse position.

The culprit of such problems is a malfunction of the reverse gear locking mechanism.

It’s good if you managed to fix it on the spot by removing the transmission lever casing and closing the contacts directly.

It is much worse when the cause of the malfunction is the solenoid, which is responsible for engaging reverse.

It is located on the lower part of the gearbox housing and, as a result, is constantly exposed to aggressive operating environments.

Sometimes the unit itself fails, sometimes the wiring elements going to it “rot.”

The problem is widespread, but AvtoVAZ did not even think of recalling the series to eliminate a characteristic malfunction, shifting overcoming difficulties onto the shoulders of the owners.

About the causes of wear

The service life of wheel bearings depends on many factors and varies widely - from 50 to 150 thousand km, depending on the make of the car. As a rule, factory parts work much longer than replaced spare parts and last 80–150 thousand km. Natural wear and tear of elements purchased at a car store occurs after 50–70 thousand km (excluding original spare parts).

Parts installed on the rear axle of the car last longer than the front ones.

The hub bearing wears out and makes noise for the following reasons:

insufficient amount of lubricant in the separator or its excess, causing no less harm;
entry of dust, dirt and moisture into the mechanism due to damage to oil seals and plastic protective boots;
impact on the rollers of wear products - metal particles and chips;
poor quality or unsuitable lubricant leaking from the separator as a result of heating.

Part wear processes are significantly accelerated under severe operating conditions:

Constant driving with maximum load on broken roads.
Most of the car's mileage was covered at high speeds.
Operating the machine on dirt roads, in severe frost and heat.
Problems with brake mechanisms that constantly heat up and transfer some of the heat to the bearings, increasing their operating temperature.
The camber angles of the front wheels are not adjusted.

Tapered bearing assemblies often fail due to excessive tightening of the hub nut, which regulates the thermal gap between the rollers and the outer race. Loosening the nut produces a similar result - play appears in the mechanism and the rollers break much faster.

Bearing noise appears ahead of schedule when the car owner gets too carried away with tuning - he installs large wheels and tires with a decent offset. In fact, the weight of the wheels increases and the center of gravity changes, loads are redistributed and the part becomes noisy after a couple of tens of thousands of km. In such cases, it is worth considering installing a reinforced version of the bearing.

Is the squeak really that bad?

Drivers who consider the occurrence of extraneous noise in the suspension area to be a harbinger of a serious malfunction, in most cases, turn out to be right. In reality, provided that the unit is adjusted correctly, extraneous sounds should not appear at all. Note that the source of the squeak can be any element of the chassis, especially this phenomenon occurs due to the friction of parts at the points of their contact. Often, such problems occur on cars with high mileage. However, various types of noise can also occur in the components and assemblies of a new vehicle, which are the result of either improper operation or adjustment, or serious breakdown. For example, when driving on a highway at a speed not exceeding 100 km/h, a creaking noise may occur in the front suspension when turning the steering wheel, and its character is different each time. Note that in this case, its appearance is not always characterized by the presence of damage, since in most cases the occurrence of extraneous noise from the front suspension is associated with the poor condition of the road surface, which causes an imbalance of its elements and they begin to “hum.” Most car owners mistakenly consider these sounds to be the source of serious problems.

conclusions

Any vehicle is a complex system consisting of thousands of different components. Therefore, various kinds of noise can appear both due to serious problems in the mechanisms, and due to the weakening of any simple element in the interior.

However, the car owner must carefully monitor the appearance of various kinds of sound effects both while the car is moving and when turning the steering wheel while parked. After all, only timely diagnosis of a problem can be considered the key to successful repair and safe driving.

It should be borne in mind that any difficulties that arise with turning the steering wheel must be resolved immediately, since the problem may result in the failure of one of the elements of the control system and an accident. You should not ignore the appearance of sounds uncharacteristic of vehicle operation, since the safety and even lives of people depend on it.

Steering rack

The rack mates with the steering column. There is a possibility that the creaking is coming from this very junction. If the steering wheel creaks when rotating on a VAZ-2114 due to the steering rack, then you can check the interface yourself. However, this area is most often inaccessible on foreign cars, so you have to go to a service station. The cause of the squeak is wear of the parts or their incorrect adjustment. It could also be:

Worn steering rack mechanism.
Loosening the pressure.
The smallest bend.

In these cases, diagnostics will be required, and practice shows that most often the rack is not repaired, but replaced with a new one.

Suspension and chassis

There is nothing to be surprised if the steering wheel creaks when turning a VAZ 2107, because these cars are old, their suspension and chassis are very worn out. If an extraneous squeak occurs when turning the steering wheel of a stationary car, it is worth carrying out a wheel alignment. The reason may be due to incorrect wheel alignment. This procedure is done at a service station, where there is a special stand.

Another possible malfunction of the chassis is wear of the ball joints. In this case, wheel play may also occur. The supports are replaced at a service station, not repaired. Similar symptoms occur with heavily worn strut bearings. Often such parts are lubricated, and the squeak disappears for a while. Ideally, bearings need to be replaced, and their additional lubrication is just a temporary measure.

In all-wheel drive and front-wheel drive vehicles, CV joints may creak when turning the steering wheel. The squeaking becomes louder and more intense as the rotation speed increases. If it is diagnosed that the cause is in the CV joints, then they must be changed urgently, since the malfunction of these elements greatly reduces the level of safety for the driver and passengers when driving.

In VAZ 2110 cars, the steering wheel may creak when rotating due to old shock absorbers that have served their purpose. The fact is that during a turn, the load on one of them increases, and if it is very worn, it will creak. The driver gets the impression that the steering wheel is creaking. Additionally, the shock absorber will knock when driving on uneven surfaces.

Knocking and squeaking in the rear suspension - how to fix it and what to do

Good day, dear motorists! It would seem that we had only recently figured out the reasons for the creaking and knocking in the front suspension, when the car “knocked” at us again. And there was already a knock in the rear suspension.

Sometimes it happens. The main thing is without nerves. We already know how to determine the reasons. Fortunately, knocking or squeaking in the rear suspension can be caused by not so many components and parts. You should be alerted to a knock in the suspension when braking.

You need to immediately pay attention to this knock. Actually, just like any other

But, let's take it in order.

What can cause a knock in the rear suspension?

Rear suspension knocking

The number of rear suspension components allows us to perform diagnostics faster than checking the front suspension. Faster does not mean inattentive.

Traditional rear suspension

Guide structure. The rear axle beam is connected to the car body using upper and lower reaction rods. They differ in size, and are fastened using rubber-metal hinges and rod mounting bolts.
The elastic elements of the rear suspension are coil springs and compression stroke buffers.
The damping device for the rear suspension is shock absorbers. There are different types of shock absorbers.
Components of fastenings - cups, rubber bushings, mounting brackets, etc.

There is something to make squeaking and knocking noises in the rear suspension. And if you hear a knock, then don’t be lazy, take an hour and conduct independent diagnostics of the car’s rear suspension.

The cause of a knock or squeak in the rear suspension may be the banal negligence of craftsmen who installed the protection incorrectly, for example. But do-it-yourself diagnostics can save you from visiting a service center and, accordingly, financial costs.

Checking the technical condition of the rear suspension

And we begin the test by diagnosing the “exhaust” pipe. Along the entire length, from the “tail” itself. Very often, an extraneous knock in the rear suspension is nothing more than the knock of a loose muffler.

To do this, drive the car into a pit, or using a lift, check all the fastening elements of the exhaust system. By shaking the “exhaust” pipe you should make sure that there is no knocking.

Check the trunk. Especially the place for the spare tire and the mounting of the spare tire. Often a dull knock in the rear suspension is the result of leaving some object or tool in the spare wheel well.

If the exhaust pipe and trunk are in order, then we begin diagnosing the most likely sources of knocking or creaking in the rear suspension.

Guide structures:

We check the suspension arms and beam reinforcements for mechanical damage in the form of cracks or deformation.
The threaded connections in the flanges must not be damaged. If it is impossible to repair them, then the lever must be replaced.
Rubber-metal hinges of levers are replaced if they are cracked, bulging on one side, or their deformation is visually visible.

Springs. Should not have cracks on the coils. Here you need to check the condition of the rubber support pads of the springs.

Shock absorbers. Visually, we can determine a shock absorber malfunction by oil leaks. To completely troubleshoot the shock absorbers, they must be removed. We check the condition of the rubber bushings of the shock absorber mounting eyes.

Brake calipers. A knock in the rear suspension when braking may well come from a loose caliper. So take a couple of minutes and check them out.

It doesn't hurt to check the condition of the wheel hubs and bearings. No knocking noises should be heard while pumping.

With the help of such an inspection of the technical condition of the rear suspension parts, as a rule, the cause of knocking or creaking in the rear suspension is revealed.

It is important to remember that not a single suspension element, either front or rear, is repaired by welding or straightening. Only replacement of faulty parts or assemblies

You should not skimp on your own safety.

Good luck to you in determining the causes of knocking and squeaking in the rear suspension.

What else could be the reason?

In general, when searching for the source of a sound, you must first check all the moving parts that are involved when turning. Also inspect everything that is located near the steering shaft, mechanism, rods, suspension elements, wheels. For example, a loose bolt or self-tapping screw will make strange sounds when it touches moving elements.

There are also more specific causes of squeaks that have nothing to do with the suspension and steering mechanism, but they appear exclusively when turning. For example, the body may be to blame for the sounds. The components of the load-bearing part are connected to each other using spot welding. When the connection points are broken, the elements begin to rub against each other, and not constantly. When moving in a straight line, the components are stationary, but during turns the forces acting on the body change, which leads to friction and, accordingly, squeaks.

To identify the source of the sound, it is not necessary to go to a service station, just drive the car into the inspection hole and ask an assistant to turn the steering wheel in different directions. Being in a hole, you can very easily determine the cause of squeaks. And then you should act based on the results.

It is enough to simply lubricate the rubber elements to temporarily get rid of the sounds. But if the source is a steering mechanism unit, suspension unit or something else, it is advisable to carry out repair work as soon as possible.

The front suspension of the VAZ 2107 creaks

A creaking sound in the front suspension when turning the steering wheel can cause a lot of concern about the condition of the car. Owners associate extraneous noise in vehicle components and assemblies with the approach of imminent repairs associated with significant material costs

It doesn’t matter whether it’s a squeak when driving, knocking in the engine compartment, in the transmission area, or any other part of the car. Don’t panic about this and immediately go to a car service center

First, you need to perform a visual diagnosis of the node that is suspicious; it is quite possible that there is no cause for concern as such.

In this publication, we will consider the causes of knocking noises from the front suspension, since most motorists consider their occurrence to be a dangerous phenomenon (this should not be ruled out). Let's start analyzing everything in detail.

Noises from power steering

Despite the fact that electric power steering is being introduced very often today, the main driver assistant when steering in most passenger cars remains power steering. This unit may make noise due to a lack of working fluid. In this case, you need to add it to a tank specially designed for this purpose. Just add the same liquid that the manufacturer used, the amplifier itself is configured specifically for the operating parameters of a particular product, and the use of a different liquid can be very negatively perceived by the amplifier. In addition to the lack of working fluid, the cause of noise in the power steering can be its pump, if it is about to die, you also need to check the condition of the power steering belt, because certain difficulties can also arise with it. And if the condition of the power steering belt makes you suspicious, it is better to replace the belt.

Body problems

Alas, poor-quality body work is such a common problem that it is impossible to even single out specific models on which it occurs most often.

The vast majority of cars from Russia have body flaws.

Drivers who have ever owned any VAZ model can easily name all the critical points of the body.

The body is rusty

These are, of course, arches, places under rubber seals (windshield frame and roof), trunk lid and sills. Each problem area has its own reasons.

For example, in the case of arches, these are the screws that attach the wheel guards to the body.

Corrosion of the rubber seal area is always explained by the accumulation of water that gets under them and cannot dry out for a long time.

Roughly the same reasons for rust on the trunk lid. The presence of a spoiler has a key influence on its occurrence.

It defies logical explanation why the engineers of the Volga Company, knowing about the presence of these destructive factors, do not take any measures to eliminate them.

What prevents us from taking as an example the best examples of the automotive industry, in which such issues have long been resolved, remains a mystery.

Which power steering pump is better to install?

Since replacing a power steering pump is a very expensive undertaking, you should be more careful when choosing a brand when purchasing (otherwise this issue may become relevant again very soon). The leading position in the market for power steering pumps (and not only) is occupied by the manufacturer HQ, whose main advantages include:

Big choice. You can select a spare part for any popular Russian or foreign car model.
Acceptable prices for Russian buyers.
High quality build and materials used. Hence durability and reliability.

You can buy products from Quinton Hazell, DENSO, as well as other well-known manufacturers of automotive spare parts and components in the IXORA store. If you have any problems choosing the right product, our polite consultants will easily solve them. Contact us, you will be 100% satisfied with the quality of the product and service.

Manufacturer	Detail number	Part name	Applicability*
Quinton Hazell	1545101109	Power steering pump Quinton Hazell, FORD, 1 piece	FORD FIESTA V (JH_, JD_), FUSION (JU_) 02-
HYUNDAI	571004L000	Hyundai power steering pump, 1 piece	FORD FOCUS 99-04
Quinton Hazell	1145101509	Power steering pump Quinton Hazell, VW, 1 piece	VW TRANSPORTER 90-03
Patron	PPS017	Power steering pump Patron, BMW, 1 piece	BMW 5 520 i, 523 i, 525 i, 528 i, 530 i, 5 Touring 520 i, 523 i, 525 i, 528 i, 530 i
Patron	PPS019	Power steering pump, Mercedes-Benz, 1 piece	MERCEDES-BENZ: SPRINTER 2-T (flatbed) 208 D, 210 D, 212 D, SPRINTER 2-T (bus) 208 D, 210 D, 212 D, SPRINTER 2
Patron	PPS020	Power steering pump, Audi, 1 piece	AUDI A6 2.5 TDI, 2.5 TDI quattro 97-05, A6 Avant 2.5 TDI, 2.5 TDI quattro 97-05
Patron	PPS035	Power steering pump, Mercedes-Benz, 1 piece	MERCEDES-BENZ C-CLASS C 240 93-00, C-CLASS station wagon C 240 T 96-01, M-CLASS ML 320/ML, 430/ML 55 AMG 98-05
Patron	PPS039	Power steering pump, Mercedes-Benz, 1 piece	MERCEDES-BENZ SPRINTER 616 CDI 95-, SPRINTER 2-T (with flatbed)
DASHI	DPC021	Power steering pump, Daewoo, 1 piece	DAEWOO LANOS2(T150)
EGT	710040EGT	Power steering pump, Toyota, 1 piece	TOYOTA CAMRY, 4RUNNER
PORSCHE	95831405001	Power steering pump, Porsche Cayenne, 1 piece	PORSCHE CAYENNE
RENAULT	491105510R	Power steering pump, Renault, 1 piece	RENAULT Logan Faza 2, Sandero, Duster, Sandero 2014, Logan 2014
FORD	1838979	Power steering pump, Ford, 1 piece	FORD Mondeo
CHERY	T113407010BB	Power steering pump, Chery, 1 piece	CHERY Tiggo (T11)
FORD	1545071	Power steering pump, Ford, 1 piece	FORD C-MAX 2003-2011, Focus II 2005-2008, Focus II 2008-2011, Kuga 2008-2012
FORD	1484948	Power steering pump, Ford, 1 piece	FORD C-Max,Focus-II Zetec-S 04
FORD	1475653	Power steering pump, Ford, 1 piece	FORD Transit (FA)
CHEVROLET	96535224	Power steering pump, Chevrolet, 1 piece	CHEVROLET Aveo

* Please check the applicability of parts specifically for your car with our managers by phone (calls within Russia are free).

Troubleshooting Techniques

The rubber creaking of the suspension while driving indicates damage to various oil seals, anthers and protective covers. These parts are not repairable, so only replacing them can save the situation.

When inspecting the vehicle's chassis, it is necessary to pay attention to the presence of mechanical damage and the degree of natural wear of all rubber elements.

Diagnostics of shock absorbers

The problematic components of the suspension are shock absorbers, which quickly fail due to the unsatisfactory condition of the roads. A properly functioning part should not have any oil leaks, and when the vehicle rocks, the shock absorber should dampen vibrations. Note that these signs appear first, in contrast to third-party noises when the car rocks, and are direct evidence of the failure of the shock absorbers. In this condition, the mechanism can still work for some time, but it is better to replace it immediately.

You can check the shock absorber like this:

Remove the part from the car and inspect the condition of its upper and lower fasteners.
Place the shock absorber in a vertical position.
The performance of a shock absorber can be assessed by acting on its rod. If the resistance when moving the rod down is significantly less than when it moves up, then the mechanism is working properly.
Free movement of the rod can be caused either by the penetration of air into the part or by a loss of liquid or gas level. In this case, oil leaks are clearly visible on the shock absorber body.

You can slightly extend the life of the shock absorber by replenishing the level of working fluid in it. However, such a measure will only have an effect if its body is intact. In addition, you can replace worn out parts of the mechanism.

Checking the condition of the springs

Sagging springs also negatively affects the performance of the suspension. This is caused by their natural wear due to the aging of the metal. To verify this, you do not need to carry out complex diagnostics.

You just need to walk around the car and pay attention to its position. If the springs do not perform their function, the vehicle's ground clearance will be significantly reduced.

Please note that camber adjustment cannot be performed on a vehicle with sagging springs.

Diagnostics of ball joints

Checking the lower suspension arms will show the condition of the ball joints. It is most advisable to carry it out by lifting the car on a lift, or using a pit. Using a pry bar, you should carefully press the silent blocks located on the lower arms. If they are in good working order, there should not be even the slightest play. And their rubber parts do not have any damage (cracks, abrasions, dented places).

Ideally, check the silent blocks and ball joints on a lift, or by jacking up the front of the car. After this, you need to unscrew the support mount from the lower arm. Next, we rotate its body to assess the condition of the ball. Evidence of its serviceability is the complete absence of play and the free, effortless movement of the body. Due to the elasticity of the rubber parts of the silent blocks, the lower arm should always be in a horizontal position.

Inspection of silent blocks

Determining the presence of production of these elements is quite simple. To do this, you need to swing the opposite rods from side to side. The presence of play in them is a harbinger of component failure. In this case, it is better to replace them immediately, since further operation of the vehicle with damaged silent blocks has an extremely negative impact on the performance of the suspension.

Crunching noise in the right front wheel

The problem was that there was a crunching sound in the right front wheel, I thought the CV joint looked at the boot, it was intact! What could it be?

I read on the forum, everyone says that the khan's boot has a CV joint, but it's intact. A friend says that this is a bearing in the hubs, but again there is no noise. It crunches on pits and when turning, I thought it might be a ball joint, but I read that they say then I would feel every pit, but the pits go through normally.

Honestly, I don't know what it could be. can anyone advise?

Vitz car, if that's important

On a couple of cars in the region of a hundred thousand, the drives began to crunch... a normal phenomenon

To begin with, it would be nice to make sure that it is the drive and on which side... if you go to the service people, there is a decent chance that they will tell you to change two... I don’t know why, but they love it..

take the corefan, put him on the street and steer around him until he is sure which side is cracking... or you can force the taxi driver to listen.. they do it well)) .. then you go to an office that sells drives, buy a grenade with an anther there collect and look for someone to supply it for you.. the internal thing usually lasts longer

Good afternoon, dears! Finally, I decided to contribute to the problems with the front suspension on the Internet. I hope this text will help someone in the future if we solve the problem, of course!

History of diagnosis. 1 day:

— Transition to new summer tires on new wheels from 17 (winter) to 18 (summer) radius; — Driving after 1000 km. after changing shoes on the paving stones near the Zoo in Moscow (metro station Barikadnaya);— Quiet tapping on the left side of the wheel with kickback in the pedals and on the bottom after 5 km. when driving straight at a speed of 20 km/h. along the Garden Ring; - Tapping accompaniment for another 10-15 km. when moving straight, but without any kickback in the pedals, as if the shocks had shifted even further to the left of the pedals, closer to the wheel. There is no vibration in the steering wheel, the gearbox works perfectly, the bolts on the wheels are tightened;— When approaching the house, the sound began to behave differently: from tapping and skipping (as if metal had caught on metal and moved on), everything turned to “combing” of metal with metal a comb (the sound of a child's xylophone if you move the hammer from low to high notes);

History of diagnosis. Day 2 and subsequent days:

— I stopped by a local service station near my house. Changed the pads. We sat down with the master, he heard everything, from tapping to “combing.” They could not immediately determine. I got on the lift. The wheel bearing was shallow immediately, they say the sound is not characteristic (but I continue to blame it), the ball joints are in order (new, original), the levers and silent blocks (new, original), the shock absorber is visually in order, the internal CV joint with an intact boot, the CV joint the outer one has a whole boot, the pads are new... The rack is ok, the box is ok. They lifted it up on a lift, spun the wheels, tugged everything, and revved it up. It turns out that the symptoms appear only under load on the wheels. They didn’t take the money, they told me to drive until the symptoms became more obvious. — I overcame the feeling that perhaps some pebble had gotten between the brake disc protection and the disc (but didn’t bend the protection). The theory requires verification;— I continue to drive with a crunch that periodically appears and disappears. It feels like a “reaction” begins under load on the wheels and when driving over small irregularities (similar to an internal CV joint);— When driving from 80 km/h. no symptoms;

Candidates:

— Wheel bearing— Inner CV joint

Friends, what is your opinion?

PS One of these days I’ll go to VAGplus in Perovo

. Problem solved

— Replacement of tie rod ends— Replacement of left outer CV joint— Replacement of right wheel bearing— “Wheel alignment” recommended