Creaks are present even in the basic configurations of the Lada Granta Liftback, despite being equipped with noise and vibration insulation. This causes significant discomfort to the driver while driving.
Eliminating squeaks is not an easy, labor-intensive, and costly procedure. Not all owners willingly agree to do this in a service station. In order to save money, car enthusiasts practice doing noise reduction with their own hands. Read below about how to do this on a Lada Granta Liftback.
What material is used to eliminate squeaks?
- bitoplast;
- anti-creak
Few owners know the use of each material; they are often considered identical, but this is not so.
Anti-creak is often called “madeline”, after the same name of the component included in the main composition. Madeline is a thin material, not intended for noise and vibration insulation. Suitable only for eliminating squeaks.
Bitoplast - also known as “Shumka”, has a thick fiber structure, is used primarily to reduce noise and vibration levels. It is not used as an anti-skripin. Although they sell it in stores as a universal remedy, which is fundamentally wrong.
Related link:
Comparative review of the technical characteristics of Grants Liftback, Renault Logan and Renault Sandero
The rear wheel of the Lada Granta shuffles
Dimon wrote: Sometimes something shuffles on my left side that I don’t know and don’t want to know, for some reason it only appears in dry, warm weather.
hmm, but mine is wet and dirty. I decided it was dirt. scored. Now that it has become clean and dry, this sound has become a kind of squeak, but from the front. I looked at the pads - almost like new. x.z. what's happened
Has anyone encountered this problem?
I placed washers under the cotter pin that holds the lever on the rear block (so that there is no loose hanging on the axle)
After changing the rear wheels (tires and wheels), I also started to hear a knocking noise, as it turned out it was the bolts that secure the wheel that were knocking (they rubbed against the brake pads), I solved the problem by grinding off a 2-4 mm bolt (bluntly with a file)
PS> If the bolt is rubbing against the pads, you can easily find out by unscrewing the bolt and looking at it; if it is rubbing, then characteristic wear from friction will be visible there!
Friction also occurs after replacing old brake pads with new ones, simply because they are new and will rub against the drum for some time!
After changing the rear wheels (tires and wheels), I also started to hear a knocking noise, as it turned out it was the bolts that secure the wheel that were knocking (they rubbed against the brake pads), I solved the problem by grinding off a 2-4 mm bolt (bluntly with a file)
PS> If the bolt is rubbing against the pads, you can easily find out by unscrewing the bolt and looking at it; if it is rubbing, then characteristic wear from friction will be visible there!
Friction also occurs after replacing old brake pads with new ones, simply because they are new and will rub against the drum for some time!
the bolts that secure the wheel were knocking (they were rubbing against the brake pads),
, I thought about tightening the handbrake, although it already works at the 3rd click.
In fact, this partially solves the problem, I adjusted it to 2 clicks, but still sometimes something happens, and sometimes it’s absolutely silent, in short, I’ve put some crap on it because it’s unclear and doesn’t interfere.
nonsense, the bolts rub against the handbrake cable
If you consider the wear of the bolts that I had, then the handbrake cable would have been worn to dust from such friction!
Source
Eliminating squeaks in the cabin
Upper side trims
- Carefully pry up the plastic cover and remove it.
- We glue several strips of madeline onto the metal stand.
- We fix the laid electrical wiring with insulation.
- We press the overlay. If you don’t want to glue it to metal, apply Madeleine to plastic.
By analogy, we remove the squeak on the right pillar.
Torpedo in places where fasteners are fixed
On the left and right sides, the torpedo is pressed with two screws under a cross-shaped bit. The “noise reduction” process is as follows: unscrew the screw, place a plastic washer (ring) under the support. The height should be in the range of 0.3 - 0.5 mm. Exceeding the height does not guarantee a tight fit of the torpedo in its normal place.
We repeat a similar procedure on the torpedo mount on the right side.
The front part of the deflector grille, radio, stove heater speed controller
The procedure involves removing the plastic trim from the front of the torpedo and gluing Madeleine strips around the perimeter. In this case, we do not touch the inside of the panel, where it is necessary to additionally glue the bitoplast.
We do not recommend fitting it “with glue”, since if removal is necessary, the structure will not be removable.
Internal “stuffing” under the dashboard
To remove extraneous noise, you will need to completely dismantle the front instrument panel, remove the wiring blocks, disconnect the stove heater control levers, and deflectors.
- After the panel is removed, we proceed to pasting the back of the torpedo with bitoplast, wrapping the levers of the drive mechanisms in an insulating layer.
- We put the electrical wiring in a fireproof corrugation and tighten it with clamps.
- We assemble the structure in reverse order.
Door card
We disassemble the door trim if noise and vibration insulation measures were not taken when installing the acoustics. If the work was carried out at a service station, then there will be no such problem.
Related link:
Lada Granta Liftback Comfort: is it really comfortable?
We glue madeline in the form of strips around the perimeter of fixing the acoustics. If necessary, cut out strips along the outer perimeter of the door card.
Trunk lock fixing shackle
There is only one recommendation - replace the bow with a new one, since this is a manufacturing defect.
Side pads made of plastic
- Use a plastic object to pry up the plastic casing and remove it.
- We glue anti-squeak strips to the inside around the perimeter.
- We install it in its original place.
If the lining is clearly deformed, we replace it with a new one, since gluing it on Madeleine will not give a positive result.
Upper luggage compartment
Creaking and vibration of the shelf are eliminated by gluing bitoplast strips on the inside. Lubricate the fastening points on the screws with silicone grease.
Reasons for the appearance of extraneous sounds
Extraneous sounds are classified by nature. Thanks to this, you can understand what kind of malfunction occurred.
Rumble
This noise can be heard inside the car when a wheel bearing fails. A metallic knock when kicked on the Granta wheel indicates the same reason. As the speed increases, the noise increases along with it.
Wheel bearing
The noise may become louder when turning. If the car turns left and a knocking noise occurs in the front right wheel of the Granta, there is a very high probability that the front right CV joint has failed. This occurs due to an increase in load on the side opposite to the turn.
Rare knock
The sound that appears periodically on uneven roads most often occurs due to the ball joint. The problem may be in the suspension - in the shock absorbers. Oil may have leaked from them or the bushings may have worn out, and periodic knocking noises may also be heard when driving on rough roads.
Silent blocks and pillows
Silent blocks and pillows could fail. With minor irregularities, the sound may not be felt, but if the nature and direction of the load changes, they will manifest themselves.
Constant knocking
If you hear a constant sound when driving, pay attention to the steering mechanisms; they are often the cause. In the Grant, a knock coming from the rear means that the hub axle bolts are loose or the rear suspension fasteners are loose, or the handbrake cable is getting caught.
Creak
In most cases, squeaking is related to the brake system when parts rub against each other. It is necessary to check the serviceability of the pads and brake disc. The creaking noise in the Granta rear wheel is associated with oxidation of the brake piston, which prevents the pads from returning to their original position.
Grinding
The grinding noise warns the car owner that the suspension is faulty. Another reason is damage to the car’s mechanisms when driving over bumps.
Suspension fault
A grinding noise when braking in the rear wheel of the Granta, as well as in the front, may indicate wear on the pads.
Extraneous sounds during acceleration
The sound that appears when accelerating can come from the alternator belt - you can hear a characteristic whistle. The noise disappears when reaching a certain speed. To eliminate the cause, it is necessary to tighten the alternator belt.
Sounds while braking
Noise when braking is most likely related to the brake system. The block itself may make noise if it uses a low-quality friction mixture.
Dirt that sticks to the disc and gets on the pads leads to extraneous sounds. Uneven wear of the disk or drum, the appearance of scoring and irregularities lead to the appearance of extraneous noise.
Elimination of panel squeaks and glass rattling. — Lada Granta, 1.6 l., 2022 on DRIVE2
24 years old I drive a Lada Granta Sovetsky, Russia
Good day! After reading the bortoviks and articles, I got to work.
The creaking in the panel on the passenger side can be eliminated quite easily. I needed a regular seal and three zip ties. If I put my hand on the far right deflector (from the driver) and press on the panel, I got a squeaking noise. And on bumps, in addition to the creaking, a dull rattling of plastic appeared. All the time I was guilty of all sorts of rubbish in the glove compartment. And at the autopsy everything became clear. There is an air duct under the panel where the airbag should be located. If you move it, a painfully familiar rattling sound appears. I secured it with three ties, and glued a seal to the seat of the airbag panel. This is what it looks like:
I inserted a washer hose into the glass seal instead of the D-shaped seal. Because the glass still fit less tightly with it than with the hose.
Now the rattling and squeaking has disappeared. I'm happy
I also bought myself frameless wipers BOSCH 600mmx475mm)) now everything is in HD quality))
Headlining
To check, you can insert a plastic card into the slot of the panel that is under suspicion, and then take a ride and listen to see if the sound disappears.
To check, you can insert a plastic card into the slot of the panel that is under suspicion, and then take a ride and listen to see if the sound disappears.
It is better to carry out a more painstaking search with an assistant, who, while moving, begins to press different panels of the car with his hands, depriving them of mobility or at least changing the frequency of oscillations. Most often, in this way it is possible to localize vibrations at least to the accuracy of the upholstery part. Next, you can simply try to “polish” the part.
Lada Granta paint chips
The first trip to Chelyabinsk (150 km from Zlatoust) was a serious blow to the paintwork. Imagine my surprise and disappointment when, after the first trip, I discovered numerous chips in the paintwork (I counted about 20 chips). Moreover, they were not only on the hood, but also on the doors. To be honest, I was not ready for this.
Now, in order to stick on the “armor,” you first need to touch up the chips with a pencil and bring the paintwork into proper condition. However, it’s winter outside, and at sub-zero temperatures in the garage, this will be difficult to do, to put it mildly, so we’re waiting for the warmth... I plan to record the entire repair process and post it in one of the issues of the BZ. Below in the photo you can see examples of chips and their sizes.
Photo 1: Chips in paintwork on Lada Granta
Maybe the reason for such chips is not the quality of the paintwork as such, but the peculiarities of our area? I will try to clearly demonstrate what I mean.
Carefully! "Stone bullets" on the road
In the Urals, the terrain is predominantly mountainous, but I’m generally silent about Zlatoust :)). In our city and beyond, horizontal surfaces are in great short supply! Therefore, to prevent cars from “piling up” under every hill in winter, the roads are generously sprinkled with “dropouts” (and not only the roads). Crushed stone screening is a by-product from the processing of hard rocks or, simply put, production waste. Since there are many mining enterprises in our territory, the by-product of which is “screenings” - we have it as “dirt”. The photo below shows what it is.
Photo 2: Screening as an anti-icing powder
Now it’s not difficult to imagine how these “stone bullets” fly out from under the wheels of oncoming cars and “attack” your car. I wonder how fast they fly into the arms of your paintwork? Let's do the math. For example, you are moving along the highway at a speed of 100 km/h, and an oncoming truck is rushing at a speed of 90 km/h. A small pebble flying out from under the wheel of a “truck” also has its own speed (+60 km/h). By adding the speeds, we get no less than 250 km/h. This is approximately the speed at which this “rock bullet” penetrates your paintwork. And the more “dropouts” on the road, the higher the likelihood of getting caught in “crossfire.” What kind of paintwork will withstand this? Yes..., only polyurethane armored film will help us (don’t even consider vinyl film, it’s just decor).
Soundproofing Kalina: competent instructions
03 June 2016 Lada.Online 66 067 2
Many owners of Lada Granta, Kalina or Priora cars notice rattling in the doors when they are closed. If a similar strumming noise appears when the windows are open, then the cause of this extraneous noise is in the seal. The problem can be solved with a simple modification.
via “Behind the Wheel”: When will the window seals on the Grants be replaced? The windows are rattling! And is it possible to make the doors like on all cars in the world - so that the top is hidden under the roof, and not on top?
Work is underway to solve the problem with the seals, but it is not very easy. A complete redesign of the door and roof design is only possible when developing a new car. This was taken into account on Lada Vesta.
Other causes of squeaking when driving a car
It happens that drivers feel extraneous squeaks or noises while driving a vehicle, but none of the above reasons are suitable for diagnosis, and the real reason for the problem lies in something else. So, among the most obvious reasons are the following:
- The main problem often lies in overinflated tires, because the driver or tire mechanic may have forgotten to look at the recommended pressure parameters in the cylinders before inflating the air. Thus, if the tire is given a pressure of 2.6 atmospheres instead of the recommended 2.4, this may lead to squeaking while driving when the surface rubs against the asphalt and especially when cornering.
- If your car has winter tires or studs, then when driving fast on a hard surface they will definitely knock on it, causing a lot of noise, and the higher the speed, the stronger it will be felt in the cabin. The same applies to Velcro, because it will begin to make squelching sounds on the asphalt or the front wheel of the car may squeak.
- If the car is driven off-road, the owner may feel some kind of knocking on every bump. This means that the suspension ball elements or arms on it have become loose or worn out and require prompt diagnosis, and then repair or replacement.
Hub wear
- It happens that the wheels are selected in such a way that their radius, profile or width do not meet the permissible limits from the vehicle manufacturer. It is in such cases that, as a rule, the tire hardly fits under the wheel arch, and when driving, the treads rub against the stationary parts of the car, which leads to noise and causes rapid wear of all parts rubbing against each other.
- The last thing that can cause tires to squeak on wheels is new tires that are still covered with a layer of oil, and the car is driving on perfectly smooth asphalt or a polymer parking lot surface. This effect of new wheels disappears within 100-200 km after their installation.
How to eliminate squeaking silent blocks
Some causes of unpleasant sounds are immediately the answer to the question “how to remove the creaking of silent blocks.” These are cases such as poor quality of the part, lapping, or design feature. For other cases, two universal methods are suitable - anointing and re-tightening the fastening. But if they did not help you, then there is only one way out - replacing with other silent blocks.
Checking the tightening force and tightening the fasteners
What can I do to prevent silent blocks from creaking? Try tightening the fasteners first. Because if, when replacing silent blocks, they were not tightened enough, this may cause unpleasant sounds.
How to do this correctly? It is necessary to tighten it while loaded; sometimes it is even recommended to additionally place a load in the cabin. But first, after jacking up and hanging the axle of the car on which the replacement was made, the fastening should be loosened. After this, place safety stops under the levers and release the jack. The car will sag under its own weight and in this position you need to tighten all the bolts until they stop.
This is a simple and easy to implement method, which also makes it possible to inspect the silent blocks for correct installation and possibly correct the situation.
Passenger door handles Lada Granta
Another problem I had was with the passenger door handles, which very quickly lost their “pristine appearance.” The silver paint on them began to peel off literally from the first days of use. The photo below shows what I mean.
Photo 3: Paint peeled off by wedding rings on the Lada Granta door handle
Why does this happen? The paint is peeled off like a scraper by the wedding rings on the passengers' right hands, and in a day there can be many such passengers in a taxi. Repainting the handle trims is not an option. The only way to preserve the “pristine appearance” of door handles for some time is to cover them with film. I haven’t decided yet what kind of film it will be in my case. In one of the next issues of the in-flight magazine I will definitely share the solution to this problem.
Perhaps these are all the minor troubles that caught my attention, and which I plan to address in the near future. See you again in new issues of the BZ!
