We independently repair the front and rear hubs of a VAZ 2107

Everyone has often seen how a car seemed to “fall” on one of the wheels, which unnaturally turned out and got stuck in the wheel arch. It was the hub that collapsed, and the wheel actually “disconnected” from the car. It happens that the wheel “jams” throughout its entire travel, then it comes off the car at full speed, and, having a large mass and torque, rolls for a long time, causing serious damage. The malfunction of this mechanism is also to blame.

The hub is the mechanism that connects the wheel and the axle. More precisely, it connects the fixed parts of the suspension and the moving ones. This is why hubs tend to experience heavy loads when moving.

The most important thing is that the hub will never completely collapse immediately on a VAZ 2107, with the exception of strong shock loads. This happens when driving at speed into a hole or onto a steep rock. After this, the hub begins to get very hot and gradually collapses. Most often, the front suspension is destroyed in this way.

For example, a hub cap protects the hub nut from sand and corrosion. And if you lose it, problems will come faster.

The front hub fails more often than the rear one, since it is the front wheels that are more mobile and are characterized by angular acceleration. When a front hub breaks, it causes more serious accidents than a rear hub because losing the front wheel is more dangerous. The car becomes uncontrollable.

Bearing condition diagnostics

Often, a faulty front wheel bearing manifests itself in the form of noise when the car is moving. You can verify the serviceability (or verify the malfunction) of the wheel bearings as follows:

• Place the car on a level surface, raise the handbrake lever;
• install wheel chocks;
• raise the car by hanging the front wheel;
• install a stop under the lower ball;
• install a safety support under the body;
• lower the jack;
• shake the wheel with your hands, holding the top and bottom;
• spin the wheel.

If play is felt while the wheel is rocking, adjusting the bearing tightening can help. But usually, if a hum, grinding noise, knocking, or play in the bearing occurs, it is necessary to replace the VAZ 2107 wheel bearing.

Rear hub

The rear hub of the VAZ 2107 differs from the front hub both in design and purpose. There are no steering knuckles or additional suspension arms attached to the rear hub.

The rear hub of the "seven" is not as massive as the front

Because the main task of this hub is to ensure uniform rotation of the wheel, and that’s all. It does not require a huge margin of strength and resistance to mechanical loads, since it does not participate in turning the wheels, like the front hub.

The rear hub is simpler than the front, as it does not experience huge loads

The rear hub is equipped with a rolling bearing, which is covered with a special cap. On the other hand, a dirt-proof inner ring is installed in the hub to prevent clogging of the bearing. This entire structure is put on the rear axle shaft of the “seven” and secured with a 30 wheel nut.

Adjusting the wheel bearing on a VAZ 2107

If the bearing is slightly worn, you can tighten the adjusting nut and eliminate the play. To do this you will need a jack, a wrench, pliers, a hammer and a screwdriver.

You can correctly tighten the front wheel bearing of a VAZ 2107 as follows:

• lift the car with a jack, hanging the wheel;
• Use a screwdriver and hammer to remove the protective plug from the hub bearing;
• tighten the adjusting nut so that the wheel stops rotating by hand;
• gradually loosen the nut until the wheel rotates freely, but does not play;
• bend the side of the nut with a chisel or screwdriver so that it cannot unscrew spontaneously;
• put the protective plug in place;
• lower and remove the jack.

If play and noise cannot be eliminated in this way, the bearing must be replaced.

What reasons lead to hub failure?

• dashing ride over potholes and bumps. This is typical for lovers of the VAZ 2107: everyone wants to “wipe their nose” on the Lexuses lazily diving into holes on a country road. And trimming the “puzoter” is generally a real pleasure.
• serious overload: an attempt to pick up “all the potatoes” from the dacha can result in a serious accident.
• driving style, which is called “aggressive” - with sudden changes in acceleration.
• If the hub cap is lost, corrosion and wear will occur faster.

Replacing a VAZ 2107 wheel bearing

• lift the car on a lift or “hang” the wheel using a jack;
• Unscrew the wheel mounting bolts;
• remove the wheel;
• unscrew the caliper mounting bolts;
• remove the brake caliper;

• pry up the protective cap of the hub with a screwdriver and remove it (sometimes you need to use a hammer for this);

• straighten the dented side of the hub nut, which prevents it from unscrewing spontaneously;
• unscrew and remove the washer nut;
• remove the hub from the car;

• pull out the bearing cage;
• remove the ring separating the outer and inner hub bearings;

• knock out the bearing races from the seat using an extension and a hammer;

• thoroughly clean the bearing installation area from old grease and dirt using rags and kerosene;
• press in the outer and inner bearing races
• thoroughly lubricate the internal separator;
• insert the internal separator;
• fill the inter-bearing space with lubricant by approximately 40%;
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• insert the spacer ring;
• press in a new oil seal;
• install the hub on the axle;
• lubricate the external separator;
• insert external separator;
• install the external separator in place;
• put the washer in place and tighten the hub nut until it stops;
• achieve free rotation of the hub in the absence of play by smoothly unscrewing the nut;
• bend the side of the nut with a chisel or screwdriver, thereby preventing it from unscrewing;
• Reinstall the brake caliper and tighten the mounting nuts;
• install the protective cap;
• put the wheel in place and tighten the wheel bolts;
• lower the car.

Repair of VAZ 2101, 2106, 2107 hub

Maintenance-free front hubs on VAZ 2107 (bushing drawing)

This time we will talk about maintenance-free front hub bearings. Having changed 3 bearings over the winter (sometimes they didn’t last, sometimes they overtightened them, sometimes they fell apart during maintenance), I got tired of all this, surfing the Internet and DRIVE came across articles about maintenance-free bearings on the front. There are several options: 1. Buy a ready-made kit. There are people who sharpen hubs and axles for them. 2. hub with axle from Izh od (also suitable) - I couldn’t find it 3. Rear hub from 08 VAZ + bearing also rear and + adapter sleeve - that’s what you need and in terms of cost.

Since I didn't look carefully at the bearings? and bought an extra stopper, but they were in the box. Next, we will need classic wheel nuts, 08 ones will not fit, and the ring that presses the bearing is also classic.

2 3,1

The first time I did it according to the first one, I’ll say right away it was in vain, the size 22 was not the topic and during installation the bushing swelled while I was inserting it. but more on that later.

here is my modified drawing

So we collect all this and happily go to the garage (well, that’s how it was for me), we begin to take everything apart

Having unscrewed the nut and the caliper, I had the first problem: I bent the brake disc (I don’t know how, but I did, I realized this when I was putting everything back together after the second problem), so I knocked over the old hub with the dead bearings, we start assembling it and now it’s not a problem, there’s an error in size, no Well, it’s okay and you can knock it out, and in the end I put everything back in the car in the garage and we’re waiting for it to be re-sharpened...

this is how it was inflated due to the wrong size, after measuring the axle, I changed the dimensions

Finally, they machined the bushings for me, and I, happy, flew to the garage to finish it... Since everything was put back in place temporarily, we disassemble everything: we remove the caliper, peel off the brake disc, knock off the hub (I’ll tell you right away that everything came off quickly on the left side, but on the right I had to suffer.) When everything was removed and wiped clean of fuel oil and grease, we put it back together.

We put the bushing on the axle, now everything is easy to install

Install the second part of the bushing

Well, a washer with a nut (the nut and washer are original - classic)

Now everything needs to be tightened. I pulled it with a ratchet and then, using a piece of a meter-long pipe, tightened it with force. I don't have a torque wrench, and I don't need one yet.

I bought these on occasion for only 1500 for 2, and they look better, and are not much more expensive than the original 600 rubles pieces. I assembled the left side - let's move on to the right. There was a little dance with a tambourine, a vdshka, a sledgehammer, and everything flew off (of course, I removed the caliper). In general, the hub, together with the disk, flew off.

We assemble it, tighten it in the same way, and test drive... Result: it steers better, rolls better, less noise. I really don’t know what’s causing it, maybe I just haven’t driven for a long time, the controls are somehow better. These are my impressions.

this is what the front looks like now

Replacing front wheel bearings VAZ 2101-07

Problem: less than 2 years later, the bearing on one wheel began to hum, and on the second there was a slight crunching sound when braking. I will try to explain in detail but briefly and in pictures what and how. First, remove the wheel.

We unscrew the caliper, not forgetting to bend the fixing plates of the bolts highlighted in yellow (and, by the way, be prepared to replace them - they often break).

And remove the hub assembly. It came off without any problems, but sometimes it gets stuck. It is better to knock it out through a block. In this photo, the working surface of the shaft is highlighted in yellow where the oil seal actually sits. I had a decent amount of wear in this place, as a result of which the oil seal quickly failed and water got inside during the season as a result and the bearing did not pass for a long time. By the way, this is also noticeable in the lubricant - it is brownish in color (the presence of rust).

The axis is relative, the road is 700 - 800 rubles. Therefore, I take a new oil seal, remove the spring and cut it about a centimeter from the side where it is widely highlighted in yellow in the photo. I screw the spring into the spring and put it on the oil seal. I think with such an oil seal it will be enough for a longer mileage.

We pry out the old oil seal with a large screwdriver or wrench, remove the spacer ring and pull out the inner race.

And using a mandrel or an unnecessary shaft, we knock out the outer race on one side and the other.

We clean out the old grease and use the old clip to drive in a new one. We only knock out the old one back.

We install the inner race and spacer washer and carefully hammer in the oil seal.

And fill it with lubricant. The ABC says Litol 24 Front wheel bearings 0.4 l Front wheel hub cap 0.25 l. We naturally wipe off the old grease from the axle and put on the hub, install the washer and tighten the nut with a little force.

We fasten the caliper without forgetting to bend the locking plates. We put the cap on lightly to prevent debris from getting in and screw the wheel on. Since the nut is tightened with little effort, we turn the wheel 90 degrees in one direction or the other so that the rollers find their place. Then loosen the nut until the wheel spins freely. We lower the car to the ground and, shaking the wheel, see if there is any play, i.e. We are trying to catch the moment so that the wheel rotates relatively freely and there is no play in the bearing. And we tighten the nut so that it does not unscrew.

We hammer in the cap and tighten the wheel completely. After a short break-in, we check again for the presence of play and, if necessary, make adjustments. In one bearing there were shells on the rollers, on the other, on the outer race, there was a scratch on the mirror, apparently some piece of metal had gotten into it. shavings. And the fastening of the hood pillar also broke, so we had to improvise. I cut out a metal plate, drilled holes and screwed it on.

I screwed the nuts from below in such a simple way.

Video about replacing wheel bearings for a VAZ classic

https://www.drive2.ru/l/6919354/, https://www.drive2.ru/l/7087225/, https://www.drive2.ru/l/4993033/

Sign of a faulty VAZ classic wheel bearing.

A faulty bearing usually produces extraneous sounds in the form of a hum or grinding sound, and the wheel can also hang on such a bearing due to wear or due to a poorly tightened wheel nut.

To diagnose a bearing, it is enough to hang the wheels (or each separately) and rock the wheel in different directions. If there is play when rocking in all planes (wheel rotation left and right and tilt up and down), the wheel bearing may need to be replaced. But the backlash can also be due to tired silent blocks or ball bearings. To exclude a suspension malfunction, you need a second person who will check whether the wheel wobbles together with the steering knuckle or walks separately from it. If the wheel moves separately from the steering knuckle, then the wheel bearing is definitely faulty (in this case, tightening the wheel nut may briefly save the situation).

A sign of a malfunction may also be extraneous sounds when the wheel rotates (usually a hum, sometimes a grinding sound) or its uneven rotation.

You can also determine a faulty bearing by an excessively heated wheel (for example, if the front right wheel disc is much warmer than the front left one). But you can’t compare the temperature of the rear and front wheels because... They have brakes of different designs.

And so, let’s summarize everything we’ve read. The wheel bearing is replaced if:

• The wheel dangles separately from the steering knuckle.
• A hum and grinding noise is heard when the wheel rotates.
• The wheel does not spin evenly.
• The wheel rim gets very hot.

Bearing Failure Determination

Some recommendations will help you make sure that you need to replace the wheel bearing on your VAZ 2107:

• The easiest way to determine the need to replace the hub unit is to grab the front wheel and wiggle it in different planes. If you feel the presence of play, then it’s time for a more detailed diagnosis and most likely replacing the bearings.
• The front wheels of the car should be hung on a jack, while being sure to take precautions: pull the handbrake, install shoes and additional stands under the car. Grasp the top and bottom of the front wheel with your hands and then make movements. It is important to wobble the wheel, and not the car as a whole. Thus, you can accurately determine whether the product in question needs to be replaced.
• Another way to determine the need for replacement is to listen for humming, knocking, and grinding noises in the wheel as it rotates.

Having decided that you really need to replace the VAZ 2107 wheel bearing, you need to purchase new products and begin the replacement workflow.

Replacement features

The front hub of the VAZ 2107 car has a pair of roller bearings, one of which is called internal, and the second external. The manufacturer recommends replacing these products in pairs, on both front wheels of the car. We will find out further what the replacement of the parts in question is.

Initially, it is necessary to tear off the nuts securing the front wheel of the VAZ 2107 car. After this, install the jack and jack up the front part of the car. At the same time, do not forget to install shoes under the wheels, as well as a special safety stop to prevent the jack from falling.

1. Removing the caliper. Changing the front wheel bearing is much more difficult than replacing the rear one, but it can be done even with no experience. First of all, the 2 bolts that secure the caliper are uncoiled, after which they are unscrewed. It is not necessary to disconnect the brake hose; it is enough to tie up the removed caliper so that it does not interfere with further work.
2. Removing the outer product. The cap is removed using a screwdriver, behind which there is a hub nut. The nut must be unscrewed, for which you will need to use a chisel and a hammer. Behind the nut there is a lock washer that must be removed. Now you can pull out the outer bearing.
3. Removing the hub. To remove the hub, you need to pull it towards you. It is removed along with the brake disc. To disconnect the disk itself after removal, unscrew the two “12” bolts. The brake disc is removed to make replacement easier, but it is not necessary to disconnect it.
4. Removing the inner bearing. Using a screwdriver, you need to pry off the oil seal located on the inside and covering the inner bearing, then pick it out and pull out the split spacer ring. The ring may not stand, so we focus on the situation. After this, the inner bearing can be removed.
5. Next, the old clips are removed using a special puller or an ordinary steel tube of suitable diameter. The next stage of replacement involves cleaning the inside of the hub from old grease, after which you can begin assembly.

Front wheel bearings for VAZ 2107 sizes.

The table shows the dimensions for the front wheel bearings of a VAZ classic car.

What is the diameter of the hub (exact factory data)

According to the regulatory documentation provided by the manufacturer, the hub diameter on the VAZ-2114 is 58.5 mm.

Thus, the bolt-to-bolt size is 4x98 , which allows you to install wheel rims with sizes R13, R14 and R15 . To secure the wheels to the hub, use bolts measuring M12x40 mm .

Standard stamping for factory hub

In order to choose non-standard stampings, but, for example, non-standard alloy wheels, it is necessary to change the size of the hub and the inter-bolt space. Of course, the manufacturer and car enthusiasts do not advise doing this unless absolutely necessary, so you should think several times before taking this action.

The most common size on European cars is 4*100 . Therefore, many people want to install just such disks. This is the hub size for Hyundai Accent and Renault Logan.

Catalog of VAZ-2114 hubs

Hub made by AvtoVAZ

2108-3103012 – original catalog number of the front wheel hub manufactured by AvtoVAZ. Using this article, you can determine a list of analogues that are suitable for installation on the Lada 2108-21099 and 2113-2115 family of cars.

Standard stamping on the rear wheel, hub diameter 4*98

So, using the catalog number, it is determined which hub becomes available for installation.

Serious breakdowns can be avoided by timely diagnostics and, if signs of malfunction are detected, prompt elimination.

What breaks hubs:

1. A sporty driving style, that is, with jerks, drifting, turning at high speeds, as well as fast driving over bumps.
2. Overload of a vehicle.
3. Getting stuck in mud and snow when the car sat on its bottom.

During such operation of the car, the hub housing may crack and the bearing may jam.

How to replace a wheel bearing on a VAZ 2106, 2107?

We determined that it was the wheel bearing that was faulty, bought a new one and are preparing the tools for the job:

1. Hammer
2. Pliers
3. Socket wrench set
4. Impact screwdriver (that you can hit without breaking)
5. Mandrel for pressing in new bearing races
6. Head 27 with a large collar (for the hub nut)

Removing the wheel bearing.

First of all, remove the cap covering the hub nut. Next, we align the rolled edges of the hub nut and unscrew it.

Replacing the axle bearing

The axle shaft is an integral part of the rear axle of the VAZ 2107. The axle shaft itself practically does not break, but the bearing by which it is attached to the axle housing sometimes fails. Its purpose is to rotate the axle shaft smoothly and evenly while the car is moving. Signs of bearing failure are the same as those of the hub elements. If problems occur, it is necessary to dismantle the axle shaft and replace the faulty part.

Bearing removal

Before starting work, you need to prepare the following list of tools:

• set of socket wrenches with a crank;
• hammer;
• flat screwdriver;
• chisel;
• grinder;
• new axle bearing with retaining ring.

To replace, follow these steps:

1. Raise the rear wheel using a jack, then remove it, not forgetting to install stops under the front wheels.
2. Remove the brake drum.

To dismantle the drum, you need to carefully strike its inside through a wooden block.

Installing a new part

After removing the bearing, you can immediately begin reassembly:

1. Clean the axle shaft from dirt and wipe it with a rag.
2. Press the new bearing onto the axle shaft, and then install the retaining ring. To install the latter, it is advisable to heat it up with a blowtorch, which will ensure easier installation and reliable retention after cooling.

Video: replacing the axle bearing on a “classic”

Replacing a wheel bearing on a VAZ Seven is not a complicated procedure. To carry it out, you will need to prepare the necessary tools and materials, as well as read the step-by-step instructions. If you choose a quality product and carry out repair work correctly, the bearing will work for a long time without any problems.

Adjusting the wheel bearing on a VAZ 2107.

The hub nut must be tightened so that the wheel does not dangle and rotates freely. Those. We rotate the wheel and, by tightening or loosening the nut, look for a position in which the wheel will not dangle and will rotate freely.

It’s worth saying right away that the suspension on domestically produced cars initially took into account all the road conditions in which the driver would have to operate his car. Therefore, all suspension elements on a VAZ are considered reliable and durable, but one of the most “long-lasting” suspension components is the steering knuckle. This unit in the VAZ 2107 design rarely fails.

Steering knuckle on the VAZ 2107: what is it for?

Even the uninitiated can answer what a steering knuckle is: obviously, it is a mechanism that ensures the wheels turn while driving. The steering knuckle secures the hub elements of the front row of wheels on the VAZ 2107 and is mounted on the upper and lower suspension arms.

As soon as the driver begins to turn the steering wheel in the cabin, the gear lever acts on the steering rods, which, in turn, pull the steering knuckle to the left or right. This ensures that the front wheels turn in one direction or another.

The main purpose of the steering knuckle in the design of the VAZ 2107 is to quickly and without failure ensure that the front pair of wheels turns in the direction desired by the driver.

Steering knuckle device

The mechanism itself is made of high-strength cast iron, and therefore has a long service life. According to the designers, this unit should withstand serious loads and not “wedge” at the most crucial moment. It is worth emphasizing that on the VAZ 2107 the steering knuckle is indeed one of the most reliable elements: most drivers never change it throughout the entire period of operation of the car.

The design of the front suspension of the “seven” uses two steering knuckles at once - left and right. Accordingly, the elements have slight differences in fasteners, but in other respects they are completely identical:

• manufacturer - AvtoVAZ;
• weight - 1578 g;
• length - 200 mm;
• width - 145 mm;
• height - 90 mm.

The main elements of the steering knuckle are:

1. The axle is the part of the axle on which the bearing is located. That is, the axle serves as a support for the rotational movement of the wheels.
2. The kingpin is the pivot rod of the swivel joint.
3. A wheel rotation limiter is a device that prevents the fist from turning to its maximum due to the risk of loss of control.

Reasons for failure of hub parts

The most unreliable part that is subject to wear and breakage is the wheel bearing. This is the only moving part, the wear resistance of which is ensured by high quality material and lubrication. Thanks to this, in normal operation it lasts up to 100 thousand kilometers or more.

Given the state of our roads, this service life may be sharply reduced. This happens for the following reasons:

• Impacts due to the wheel hitting potholes at high speed. The resulting dynamic loads primarily affect the bearings and only then the remaining suspension parts.
• Loss or contamination of lubricant. If the boots are damaged, the lubricant is washed out from the inside of the bearing, and the part becomes clogged with dirt and requires urgent replacement.
• Incorrect tightening when replacing or servicing. An over-tightened bearing will overheat and fail. A weak tightening torque causes play and intense wear of the part.
• Errors when pressing the bearing during replacement. Distortions and damage greatly reduce the service life of the part. Therefore, you should trust the replacement only to experienced locksmiths with a good reputation.

Breakage (deformation) of the hub itself can only occur as a result of strong impacts on the edges of road potholes or an accident.

To extend the life of the unit, you need to monitor the condition of the anthers and drive the car carefully, avoiding potholes and slowing down in front of them.

Steering knuckle repair

Repair of the steering knuckle is possible with minor wear or minor damage. As a rule, if a unit is seriously damaged after an accident, car enthusiasts simply replace it with a new one.

Repair work is only possible after the steering knuckle has been completely removed from the vehicle. The repair schedule looks like this:

1. Clean the surfaces of the fist from dirt and dust, wipe it with a clean cloth, and blow with compressed air.
2. Clean the grooves for the retaining rings.
3. Inspect the steering knuckle after dismantling for signs of deformation and wear.
4. Install a new retaining ring and press the new bearing in until it stops.
5. If it is necessary to replace the trunnion, replace it. If the axle and kingpin are severely worn, it is recommended to replace the steering knuckle assembly.

Repairing the steering knuckle involves replacing the retaining rings and bearing. In case of extensive damage, only replacement is recommended.